Methods for covering walls with plasterboard sheets. Plasterboard finishing: work order. The process of installing drywall on the wall

The appearance of drywall in the construction industry made it possible to move away from activities related to leveling surfaces, which were previously carried out with leveling solutions (plaster and putty). Installing this material allows you to create a surface with a high level of evenness on the wall or ceiling. This in turn is a guarantee of high-quality finishing.

Plasterboard sheets allow you to level planes with any difference in the area being finished. If this difference is small (up to 5 cm), then a frameless installation method can be used. If more than 5 cm, then the drywall is mounted only on the frame.

Tools and Profiles

Currently, this leveling material is mounted on a lathing made of metal profiles. The technology itself for constructing a new surface is so simple that even one can handle it.

Photo of a figured plasterboard wall with backlight

Even more photo of plasterboard walls look .

To do this, you will need the plasterboard sheet itself and several profiles: for finishing the wall - a guide and a rack, for the ceiling - a guide and a ceiling. As well as direct hangers and self-tapping screws with dowels.

From the tools:

• Hammer;
• Screwdriver;
• Planer for removing edges;
• Level;
• Plumb;
• Putty knife.

Tool for installing metal frames under drywall

Installation of a frame under plasterboard

Let's consider. To do this, you need to determine the slope of the wall itself. It can be tilted inward or outward. To determine this, you need to attach a hanger to the upper corner of the wall. If its sinker moves away from the bottom corner of the floor to a certain distance, it means the wall is tilted inward. If it lies tightly on the surface of the wall, then you will have to shift the installation location of the plumb line slightly toward you, that is, align the sinker with the lower corner.

In the first case, you will have to make horizontal marks on the ceiling close to the wall in each opposite corner. Connect them with a line onto which the guide profile is installed. Then, using a plumb line on the floor, determine two points at the corners, connect them to each other and secure the guide profile to the floor.

In order to install the profiles simply, you need to cut them to fit the length of the wall, make holes in them, install along the line and mark the fasteners through the holes. Then, using a hammer drill, holes are made in the floor or ceiling into which plastic dowels are driven. It is to them that the upper and lower profiles are attached with self-tapping screws.

If the length of the room is greater than the length of the profile (3 m), then you will have to extend them. There is nothing complicated about this. The two elements to be connected are inserted into each other at their ends and secured with a self-tapping screw. More often they refuse it, because the fastening is carried out along one line.

The standard distance between the centers of the guides is 60 cm

The next stage is the installation of rack profiles. The two outermost elements can be installed at once, secured to adjacent walls and to the top and bottom rails. To install intermediate elements, you will have to draw vertical lines on the wall, which will determine the location of their installation. The standard distance between them is 60 cm, because the width of the plasterboard sheet is 120 cm. That is, three profiles must be installed under each sheet, one of which is in the middle.

Along the drawn lines, straight hangers are installed every 50-60 cm, which are attached to the surface with self-tapping screws. To do this you will need a hammer drill and a screwdriver. To make sure that the intermediate elements will be in the same plane, it is necessary to stretch a strong thread in several rows between the two outer rack profiles. It is on this basis that the alignment should be carried out.

An option for reinforcing the frame under plasterboard with a wooden block

After the intermediate profiles are installed, you can install several crossbars every 30-40-50-60 cm. The pitch is chosen at your discretion, much will depend on the height of the ceiling in the room. The higher the ceiling, the fewer the steps. Cross members will strengthen the frame and make it rigid.

Fastening drywall

So, the sheathing is ready, you can proceed to the installation of drywall. Before installing each sheet, you need to process its edges with a special plane to create a small groove when joining. It will have to be sealed with putty.

We lift the sheet and install it to the sheathing so that it rests on three vertical profiles. In this case, the edge of the panel should lie in the middle of the frame element. That is, two sheets must be joined together on one profile. This does not apply to the corner element, which the sheet covers completely.

Drywall is fastened with self-tapping screws; here it is necessary to maintain certain dimensions.

• The distance from the edge of the panel to the mounting point is 10-15 mm.
• The distance between fasteners is 100-150 mm.
• The screw-in depth of the cap is up to 5 mm.

Puttying joints of plasterboard sheets

After all the sheets are laid and secured, it is necessary to seal the joints. To do this, a putty solution is used to fill the seam. Then a special tape is immediately applied to it, which is covered with a layer of putty on top. You will need a spatula here. Please note that the places where the drywall is attached to the frame are also sealed with mortar.

The nuances of constructing a frame on the ceiling

First of all, you need to determine the lowest corner in the room. To do this, measure the height of all corners; the smallest size is what you need. It is here that the laser level is installed at a certain height, which determines the location of the new ceiling. Its light rays will outline a contour on the walls. You will have to install guide profiles along them to the walls.

It is usually carried out along the room, so across the room from one of the walls we set aside dimensions in increments of 60 cm. We draw lines along them for installing hangers. The latter are installed in increments of 40-50 cm. Several rows of threads are stretched between two longitudinal guides, and the intermediate elements of the sheathing will have to be aligned along them.

Option for a reinforced frame for a plasterboard ceiling

The profiles are installed with their ends in the groove of the guides, aligned with the threads and attached to the hangers. After which the frame will need to be strengthened with cross members, as is the case with the wall.

Finishing drywall

If a plasterboard wall needs to be painted or wallpaper pasted on it, then finishing work cannot be carried out in this form. The drywall will have to be trimmed. To do this, its surface is additionally needed. This material has a fine-grained structure, and if you apply it in a thin layer and finish it with sandpaper, the plane will be even.

Scheme of this type of work:

• The plasterboard surface is treated with a primer. The surface needs to dry. This usually takes 4-6 hours. This must be done so that the cardboard has a surface with a high degree of adhesion.
• Next, a layer of putty is applied, which also needs to be dried.
• If you are not satisfied with the level of evenness, you will have to apply another layer. But before this, the first one must be treated with a primer.
• Now you need to treat the putty surface with fine-grained sandpaper. To do this, use a grater on which sandpaper is attached. Using circular, leisurely movements, without effort or pressure, you need to walk over the entire treated area.
• After which a layer of primer is applied to the drywall.
• Once it is dry, you can paint or wallpaper.

“Dry” wall covering with plasterboard is as common as wallpapering. Indeed, at such a pace of progress and the quality of leveling, the assembly of the supporting base cannot but have difficulties. And they exist, so today we will reveal the secrets of assembling wall profile frames.

Consideration of wall frame performance

Before you begin assembling a substructure for wall cladding, you should make sure that your understanding of the functions of the profile frame is complete and correct. It is assembled from PN and PS type profiles of different sizes. For false walls without high operational load with one layer of cladding, a 60 mm kit is used, consisting of CD-60 and UD-27 profiles as rack and guide elements, respectively. Such a wall is self-supporting, but nothing more: no hanging equipment such as cabinets, shelves or a TV should be attached directly to the frame or sheets.

False walls with internal insulation, two- and three-layer sheathing with sheets and an additional load-bearing function are assembled on a frame from the same profile sizes as those used in the construction of plasterboard partitions. These are PS+PN sets 50 and 100 mm. Let's summarize: the width of the profile used determines the mass of the wall and cladding in particular, and sets the required load-bearing capacity.

Another important parameter of the wall frame is its frequency, expressed by the pitch of the rack elements. The more often they are installed, the greater the rigidity of the wall and the higher its resistance to pressure and impact. For single-layer sheathing, a step of 40 cm is used due to the fact that one sheet can be pressed through relatively easily. The two-layer cladding is denser, so the strut spacing can be increased to 60 cm.

It is not entirely clear why to reduce the number of attachment points for a two-layer sheathing, because it has more weight compared to a single-layer sheathing, and therefore requires a greater load-bearing capacity of the frame. However, the strength of profiles of standard size 50 and larger (and others are not used in multi-layer sheathing) is quite enough to hold up to four layers of drywall.

If you do not understand the point of covering with several layers of gypsum plasterboard, most likely you are not aware of the relationship between the characteristics of the walls. An additional layer doubles the insulation from structural and airborne noise, allows for up to 50 mm of additional insulation, and significantly reduces the thermal conductivity of the sheathing itself. The combination of these factors makes multi-layer cladding a very popular solution, which has been adopted by almost all conscientious contractors.

Installation of guide profiles

Assembling the frame of any wall begins with determining its main plane. If the wall has niches, the main plane is the one with the largest area. This plane is quite easily projected onto the floor and ceiling with two base lines, from which all further readings will be made. Once these lines are defined and marked, they should be checked to ensure they are consistent with the overall geometry of the room and necessary changes made if necessary. For convenience, you can also make adjustments for the thickness of the sheathing layer and the preferred finishing material so that the markings accurately indicate the installation line of the guide profiles.

They, as the name suggests, determine the direction of the rack elements. To fasten guide profiles to concrete bases, quick-installation plastic dowels with a pitch of 35-40 mm or direct installation steel dowel-nails are used. Fastening to wooden structures, shell rock or foam concrete is carried out with hardened self-tapping screws 50-120 mm long, depending on the density of the material. The fastening pitch can also be reduced to increase the rigidity of fixation.

To compensate for structural noise, thermal expansion and shifts during building settlement, a layer of damping material is laid between the guide profile and the load-bearing surface. Special self-adhesive tapes made of medium-density polyethylene foam can be relatively easily replaced with self-cut strips of insulation made of the same material and glued to regular PVA.

Structural insulation from the floor is carried out in one layer, and from the ceiling - in two or three. In total there should be approximately one layer for every meter of wall height. The fastening of the ceiling profile is not done rigidly, so that the frame guide can “walk” in height in the range of 2-3 mm.

Walking around openings and corners

The plane of the frame can be disturbed by niches, window and door openings. In these places, the linear configuration of the guides changes to correctly bypass the junctions.

In doorways, the guide profile is raised to form a rectangular opening in the cladding. Its dimensions either exactly correspond to the installation dimensions of the door block, or determine the opening of the slopes.

Window openings can be bypassed in two ways. The opening “to the floor” is designed in the same way as a door, however, it is preferable to install window sills in parallel with the assembly of the frame. This is done to break the vertical guides. Thus, the lower part of the niche is made with strictly rectangular edges, and the upper part has the required angle for installing slopes (2-3°).

It is more convenient to assemble simple closed niches after installing the main plane of the frame. Usually, the rack elements are simply skipped at their locations, but if the niche continues to the floor, the guide profile on it must be torn and moved towards the wall to the depth of the niche. In this case, additional external and internal corners can be formed, at which the profiles are tightly adjacent to each other to form a common clearance (the edges are cut at 45°). The reason for this is the following: it is impossible to reliably know in advance exactly how the frame of the relief wall will be implemented, which means that the rack elements must be able to be installed in all possible positions.

Assembling the load-bearing wall structure

Rack profiles are inserted into the cavity of the guide profiles, the length of which is 15 mm less than the distance between the internal shelves of the guide system at each specific installation location. This gap is necessary to make it easier to insert the rack into the guides at an angle and to compensate for linear deformations.

For maximum performance, it is important to adhere to a specific installation sequence. First, all rack profiles are installed without any fastening. Next, direct hangers are fixed to the wall with a pitch recommended for the type of wall (30-60 cm), attachment points are outlined, the profile is moved to the side and the wall is conveniently drilled with a hammer drill.

The racks return to their previous position according to the marks prudently marked on the guide profile. The profile is fastened with two notches or self-tapping screws in the lower part, but on top it must remain fully movable. To ensure that the racks exactly correspond to the installation step of the sheets and do not tilt, jumpers are installed in advance to join the vertical elements of the same row. If the frame uses the CD-60 kit, the jumpers are cut to 340 mm long, inserted between the posts and attached to them with halves of a regular crab. In this case, it is enough to install the first, basic rack vertically; the rest only need cursory control.

If the frame is made with a standard size of 50 or 100 mm, the jumpers are made with a guide profile. Its edges are cut along the outer shelves and bent in different directions. The workpiece is inserted with one curved edge into the cavity of the rack, the other edge is placed on the adjacent rack. If the sheathing posts are oriented with the central flange to the sheathing, which occurs in non-insulated walls, the edges of the lintels must be bent in one direction so that the side edges are flat. The header is simply inserted between the shelves and secured to them along adjacent flat surfaces.

Please note that cutting the jumpers with “tongues” is strictly not recommended: the heads of the screws are normally pressed into the drywall, but the plate, especially from the central flange of the rack profile, will certainly form a bump on the surface of the sheathing.

To avoid vertical corners, a number of simple rules apply:

1. External corners with a standard size of 50 mm and above are assembled from two guide profiles inserted towards each other.
2. The same corners from CD-60 are formed sequentially: first one side is sheathed, then a profile is attached to the sheet outlet and the adjacent sheet is sewn.
3. All internal corners are also assembled sequentially: first the wall is sewn up, then the second corner insert is inserted and secured, and the adjacent wall is sewn up.

Additional frame fastening and completion of assembly

At the end of the installation, the plane of the rack profiles must be carefully aligned. Often, for this purpose, an additional rail (or a pair of them) is used, with which the racks are twisted together to bring them into a common plane. The rail is telescopic and consists of two guide profiles nested inside each other.

After temporary connection, the edges of the straight hangers are folded back, attached to the posts and folded back, after which the additional slats are removed. Sections of the frame adjacent to niches and openings also need strengthening. In these places, horizontal crossbars are added at intervals of half a meter to prevent pushing through areas that are potentially susceptible to destruction.

When starting any repair and finishing work in an apartment or house, you need to choose in advance what material will be used. Many people choose to cover walls with plasterboard - a fairly simple procedure that you can do yourself. But, if you need to create some kind of decorative element, composition, then you will have to try hard. Only then will it turn out exactly what was intended. Therefore, working with gypsum boards is not always as easy as it might seem.

Features and advantages of finishing walls with plasterboard

Drywall is considered a universal material; it can be mounted on almost any type of surface - brick, concrete, block, wood. For proper installation, use various options:

• construction of metal and wooden frames;
• fastening gypsum plaster boards directly to the wall.

Installation of drywall sheets without sheathing

Unlike other materials, covering various surfaces with plasterboard can have many advantages:

1. Working with dry plaster (another name for drywall) allows you to finish walls quite quickly. There is also no need to use various solutions that require certain conditions.
2. The constructed gypsum plasterboard structure fits into any design ideas. You should not think that using this material you can only create smooth areas - you can successfully make various curved and decorative elements.
3. Drywall has excellent technical characteristics. But it is very afraid of high humidity, so it is better to use it in combination with waterproofing materials.
4. It is very convenient that the entire structure can be dismantled very quickly. At the same time, the use of a metal frame provides very good rigidity and does not collapse over time.
5. It is possible to establish communications without creating different channels. This rule applies to the frame method.
6. The surface of gypsum plasterboard can be treated with almost all finishing coatings. It is also very convenient that different types of finishes can be combined with each other.

Leveling walls using gypsum plasterboard is especially important when using internal insulation of the house

When creating decorative elements using drywall, you need to take into account that you will need to create additional sections of the frame, which must first be correctly calculated.

Preparing for wall covering

Do-it-yourself plasterboard wall covering begins with preliminary preparation. Often this process lasts much longer than the work itself. It is better to take care in advance of calculating the necessary costs, materials and drawing up a detailed work plan (scheme).

First of all, you should measure the room. This must be done with special care; any errors will lead to problems arising during the installation process.

Measuring the room is an important stage of preparatory work

On a note! There are various options for plasterboard sheets on the market, so you can choose the material even for non-standard objects.

Attention is also paid to the thickness of the slab; it can be from 6 to 12.5 mm. Width starts from 60 cm and up to 120 cm.

When choosing, you can focus on the color of the sheet; it gives an idea of ​​​​its characteristics:

• the most common option is for simple rooms, its color is gray;
• for wet rooms - moisture-resistant plasterboard, green in color;
• Fireproof sheets are red in color.

The green color of drywall “speaks” of its moisture-resistant properties

The method of fastening the slab is immediately determined; the choice of additional materials will depend on this. If a frameless method is used, then it is necessary to choose the right glue and its quantity. When creating the sheathing, the amount of metal profile and fittings is calculated. They also do not forget about the need to prepare the required tools.

What to consider when installing gypsum boards

So, it has already been noted that a lot depends on the installation method that will be chosen in advance. Consider the following:

• For rooms with a large area, the frame method is suitable. But you need to remember that the erected sheathing takes up part of the area.
• Accordingly, it is better to sheathe small rooms by gluing gypsum boards. This is the only way to maintain the size of the object. If you use a frame, the room will become noticeably cramped and uncomfortable.
• The use of a metal profile requires compliance with certain rules. Among the main ones is strict adherence to the installation of level guides.

Sheathing walls with plasterboard using lathing

Using this method does not require any specific skills. All the work is quite simple, but requires care. There is no need to rush, it is better to do everything in a measured manner, resulting in a high-quality design that will please the eye.

On a note! The technology of covering walls with plasterboard itself has some complexity in terms of creating sheathing. The procedure for cladding with gypsum board slabs is not the main stage of such an event.

The work to create the sheathing is as follows:

1. Everything unnecessary is removed from the walls. You should get a clean surface.
2. Make markings. Immediately mark out the locations of the vertical posts (steps of 55-60 cm). This makes it possible to drill for the dowel in advance.
3. Install the guide profile. This is done around the perimeter of the room wall. This is where the installation of vertical elements begins. They are secured using U-shaped brackets.
4. Secure horizontal ties.

Photo of the frame installation process:

Each stage of work is carried out using a level. Only after achieving perfect evenness is each element secured.

Installation of plasterboard sheets

Wall covering with plasterboard is done according to the following principle:

1. The required sheet size is measured. Excess is removed using a construction knife.
2. The edges of the sheets that will be located nearby are trimmed. Do this at a slight angle.
3. The installation of the gypsum board itself consists of screwing it to the profile. Maintain a step of 20-25 cm.
4. Take into account that you need to make a gap between the floor and the ceiling, it should be at least 5 mm.
5. Now all that remains is to seal the joints between the sheets and proceed to further finishing.

Some tips:

• Self-tapping screws are recessed literally flush with the surface. Do not over-tighten or over-tighten them.
• A gap of 3-5 mm is made between the sheets.
• If you plan to fasten heavy elements, then make mortgages. They must be securely attached to the wall.

Thus, you get a plasterboard room that will serve for many years. In principle, if you follow the rules for further finishing, then even when replacing the decorative layer you will not need to change the gypsum board wall covering.

Covering with glue

It is better to install drywall with glue when you have at least a little experience in carrying out such work. The fact is that it will be almost impossible to correct the defect with such work.

Guided by the following rules:

It becomes extremely clear how to cover the walls of a room with gypsum board slabs. This procedure allows you to quickly and most importantly reliably create a surface that will serve for any further finishing.

Some features

Regardless of which option is chosen, there are certain features that should be observed in any case.

1. Before you start covering the walls with plasterboard, make a preliminary marking of the slabs. What is it? Imagine that you want to install various lighting fixtures on the surface, but how to do this? After all, after installing the gypsum board, you will have to spend extra time searching for the place where the electrical wiring runs. That's why they do everything in advance.
2. Direct cutting of holes for built-in lamps can be postponed. But then the possibility of contact with a metal (wooden) profile is taken into account.
3. The trim around window openings requires the most care. Often heating radiators are located under the windowsill. This means they immediately calculate the location of the removable screens. For this purpose, additional mortgages and false panels are made.
4. It’s better not to take risks and worry about pre-finishing the surface that will be under the drywall. What it includes is the application of compounds that will protect against the effects of various fungi and mold. They also provide thermal and waterproofing.
5. Wooden frames are best used in houses that are made of the same material.

There is no doubt that covering walls with plasterboard will create a surface that will allow you to show all your imagination for further decoration.

Do-it-yourself finishing of rooms with plasterboard is done quite often. This material attracts the consumer.
After installation, the drywall can be finished with tiles and many other materials, you just get a perfectly flat surface and can attach anything. But many do not know how to do this work correctly; this article will be devoted to this topic.
Full instructions for completing this work will be given.

This material is divided into several types and it is also divided by type of edge. Your choice should fall on the one that is suitable specifically for your premises.
This determines both the living environment and the finishing method. Finishing a room with plasterboard with your own hands begins after choosing the right material.

Types of drywall

Decorating a room with plasterboard with your own hands is done using a material that suits the environment.
Here it can be divided into the following types:

• GKL, this is the simplest drywall, which is most often used in repairs. It is used both at home and at work.
  Its installation is done in heated rooms where there is heating and normal humidity, which is about 70 percent. Sheets of this type are marked blue and have a gray color;
• GKLO, this material is fire-resistant; the material contains a component that makes the sheet resistant to direct fire. It is used both for finishing rooms and for installation in ventilation shafts and attics.
  The markings on such sheets are made in red and the sheet itself has a gray tint;
• GKLV, moisture-resistant material has this marking. It can already be perfectly installed in a room with high humidity; it is often mounted in the bathroom (see Finishing a bathroom with plasterboard: work procedure).
  For its production, special cardboard is used and a special coating is applied to the front part, which resists a humid environment. The sheet is marked in blue and has a green color;
• GKLVO, this material combines two types; it is both moisture-resistant and fire-resistant. As a rule, its installation is done in industrial premises where there is high humidity and strict fire safety requirements are imposed.
  This sheet is marked red and green.

Now you know what types of material there are. Before purchasing, read the instructions and you will not make a mistake in your choice.

Types of Drywall Edges

Plasterboard finishing is done according to the material, which also needs to be selected according to the edge of the fastening.
Several types should be distinguished here:

• PC is a straight edge that is used for a smooth joint and does not require sealing. This joint is used when performing work in several layers;
• UK, this is a thinned edge. This option should be used when fastening with subsequent installation of reinforcing tape and subsequent treatment with putty material;
• ZK, this edge is rounded on the edge. Such a seam must be puttied, but no reinforcing tape is used.
• PLC, this edge design has a semi-circular appearance on the face. This type of joint is also puttied, but without the use of reinforcing tape;
• PLUK, this edge is also subject to putty, but with the use of reinforcing tape.

Most often, plasterboard with PLUK or UK edges is used for finishing premises. This edge is puttied, but there are no protrusions on it.

Attention: When choosing drywall, you should also pay attention to the size of the sheet. It can be different.
The geometry of the frame and the number of rivers for fastening will depend on this.

Drywall installation

Finishing a house with plasterboard can easily be done on your own and this will reduce the cost of the entire structure, and only the price of the material will determine the cost of the entire structure. Before starting work, you should look at the photo and decide on the design pattern, and in the video you will see the entire installation process.

Surface preparation

Plasterboard finishing begins with preparing the base plane. It is this that largely determines the durability of the structure.
This issue should be approached quite responsibly.
And it doesn’t depend on whether it’s finishing drywall for painting or any other finishing material:

• We are not particularly interested in the curvature of the surface. But it is worth identifying the delamination of the material and then removing it with a chisel and hammer.
  We simply shouldn’t have any material left that will fall off inside the frame;
• Now the surface should be treated with an antifungal antiseptic. After all, it will be unpleasant if blackness begins to appear from the inside and you need to tear everything down.
  Therefore, this work is even worth doing as a preventive measure;
• For reliability, we cover the plane with a primer.

After this we make markings for the frame. Moreover, this should be done regardless of the fact that you are going to finish the ceiling or walls.
The plane must be perfectly flat and suitable for further use. The technology for finishing plasterboard partitions also provides for a high-quality prepared surface.

• First we determine the level of plane deviation. We stretch the line diagonally and determine the location of the plane.;

Attention should be paid to choosing the level of material location and take into account the insulation layer if you are attaching it. It should be remembered that after installation it cannot be deformed, otherwise it will lose its properties.
In this case, you should also provide a gap of about a couple of cm. This will be required for high-quality use of the material.

• Place a mark at the location of the cladding. Now it needs to be transferred to other walls.
  To do this you need to use a hydraulic level. It is with its help that this can be done most efficiently. We transfer;
• Now we need to connect the marks into one line. To do this, we use nylon thread.
  With its help, the line is simply broken off and we get the level of the plane. For walls, a plumb line and a level are used, and with the help of these tools markings are made;

Making a frame

It should be said that the sheathing can be made from a metal corner and from a wooden beam. Before purchasing a material, you should carefully calculate the amount of this material and take into account the size and cutting of the sheets, and only after that make a purchase.
The correct placement of the plane and its geometric shape will completely depend on the frame. You need to do the markings correctly.

Attention: When choosing a wooden beam as a sheathing material, it must be treated with an antiseptic, which is commercially available. Give preference to deep penetration liquid.
This will significantly extend the life of the product. Do the treatment in advance. The material still needs time to dry.

So:

• We cut the sheathing elements to the required size. Just don’t mount it close to the wall; make a 5 mm gap at each end.
  After this, fastening matters. For wooden surfaces, only self-tapping screws can be used.
  For a plane made of concrete or brick, you will need to make a hole using a hammer drill and make a connection with dowels. They should not be used in sets.
  You need to take plastic and screws for it separately. The diameter of which should be purchased a couple of mm less than the cross-section of the hole.
  We need rigidity and this is the connection that will provide it. After all, the structure has a certain weight and must be securely fastened;
• Now we need to attach the transverse slats, they will determine the installation plane of the sheets. To do this, you need to pull the fishing line diagonally across the outer frame rails and fasten strictly along it.
  Adjustment is done using shims.

Making the wiring

After correctly installing the frame, you need to do the wiring. For the ceiling, cables are supplied to the lamps.
Wiring is made for the walls to install sockets. We will focus on doing this work in relation to the ceiling, it is just more complicated.
So:

• You must immediately decide on the installation location of the junction box. This is where all the wires will meet.
  It is necessary to choose a place so that there is easy access; this will be needed for repair work. Also, if you are installing energy-saving elements, then you will also need to mount a step-down transformer.
  It should also be freely accessible. We fasten the boxes;
• Now we need to connect the wires. We mark the placement points of the lamps on the surface and attach the wire to them;

Attention: To connect the cable, you should use terminal blocks that will ensure the reliability and quality of the connection. Avoid twisting.
This is not reliable; after installing the drywall, it will simply be difficult to get there. Therefore, make all connections efficiently.

• After connecting the cable, you need to connect the lighting fixtures. Make sure to do this and look at the correct distribution of light.
  For now, you can change everything. After attaching the sheets, this will be quite difficult to do.
  Let's check. If everything is fine, then turn off the lights and remove the lamps.

After completing the wiring, it's time to attach the insulation.

Installation of sheets

The use of plasterboard in finishing is quite widespread. But the installation of sheets is practically the same for all finishing options and is carried out according to certain principles.
So:

• The fastening starts from the window of the room and is done towards the door. Here you will have the most correct lighting and you will be able to see all the errors;
• The sheets should not be installed end-to-end, neither to each other nor to the wall. Make a small gap.
  This will allow you to avoid problems when heating the material;
• The sheet must be chamfered. Finishing the seams between the plasterboard sheets after installation is done with putty and they will all be closed.
  This will help the material adhere better;
• The self-tapping screw must enter strictly perpendicular to the surface. If he went wrong, then don't throw him in the same place.
  Step back a couple of cm and make the connection. The cap should be heated in relation to the plane by a couple of mm;
• The seams of the sheets should not match. Do the styling in a checkerboard pattern.
  Fastening by weight is not performed. It should be carried out on the frame and fit tightly to the surface;
• You will need to cut the material. This is done as follows; it is best to carry out the work on a level table.
  First, we try on the sheet and make cut marks. After this we draw a line using a pencil.
  We apply the lath and make an incision using a sharp knife. We shift the cut line a couple of cm in relation to the table and apply pressure.
  The sheet breaks strictly along the line. We clean the fracture plane using a plane and remove the chamfer.
  We make the fastening;
• In the places where the lamps are installed, we do this, apply it in place and mark the output point of the lighting device. We removed the sheet and made a hole using a crown and drill.
  Just choose the right size. Do not apply sudden pressure. Then the material will simply be pulled out.
  Do everything right and don't drown yourself.

Ceiling finishing

Finishing on drywall is done with putty. First we apply a rough layer, for which we apply a start and after drying we apply a finish layer.
We wait for the surface to dry completely and grind it. If there are shells left, then we apply more solution to them and do the same.
Until the surface is perfectly smooth.

After proper preparation, finishing can be done with tiles and any other material. The most important thing is to take your time and do everything right.

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An example of finishing a wall with plasterboard sheets. Anyone with no experience in construction can cope with this work. To mount drywall on walls, you need to choose an installation option: framed or frameless.

1 option

Horizontal markings are made on the wall along which the rack profile will be installed. The position of the vertical profiles should be marked on the floor, the installation step of the elements is 60 cm.

Measurements are taken along the axes of the elements. Sometimes, for structural rigidity, it is reduced to 40 cm.

Frame assembly

Measure the width of the load-bearing wall according to the markings and cut the required amount of profile according to these dimensions. For convenience, cut one centimeter smaller.


Before screwing, sealing material is glued to the guide profile. If this is not available, then you can coat the back surface with sealant. Secure the profile according to the marks and screw it using dowels and nails. Rack profiles are installed in the guides, in the places where the marks are placed. The connection is made with “seeds” - small self-tapping screws.

Each profile is checked with a plumb line for verticality. As soon as the third profile is installed, you need to attach a slab of drywall to the structure.

Its edges should end in the middle of the third rack profile. Install jumpers between the frame slats - this will add rigidity to the structure. If there is supposed to be a switch on the wall, then it is worth stretching the electrical wire behind the frame and bringing out the ends. In places where pieces of furniture are attached to the wall, mortgages are installed.

An example of installing mortgages for attaching cabinets to the wall. Once all the stages of installing the frame have been completed.

Covering the frame with plasterboard

First of all, screw whole slabs to the frame, make sure that the sheets meet each other exactly in the middle of the profile. The screws are located in the seam areas in a checkerboard pattern with a distance of 15 cm. On the sheet, the screw pitch is 25 cm. For fastening, black self-tapping screws are used, which should be screwed into the drywall, deepening them by 1 mm.

The screwdriver should be set to low power so as not to damage the fragile surface of the gypsum board. In the places where the sockets are installed, holes are made with a crown and special cups are installed into which the ends of the electrical wires are led out.

Frameless method of finishing walls with plasterboard: step-by-step instructions

This method involves gluing gypsum board sheets directly onto the wall, without constructing a structure from profiles. First of all, prepare the plane for further installation. The preparation of the wall surface needs to be given special attention; it must be carefully prepared so that the work of installing drywall on the walls is successful. If the walls were previously painted with oil paint, it doesn’t matter, just make a notch on them.
Applying glue to a sheet of drywall This work can be done using a hammer drill with a certain notch or a simple ax. If there are cracks or potholes in the wall, they need to be repaired with plaster or foam. The polyurethane foam will penetrate deep into the crack, filling it to its full depth. After the foam has dried, it must be cut flush with the wall.

Next, you need to remove dust from the wall, this is done using a wide brush. The next step is priming. The primer is applied in two layers; it is advisable to choose a material with antiseptic properties. The soil should dry well, usually this takes 6-10 hours.


While the primer is drying, you can check the verticality of the wall; for this you can use:

• level;
• long rule;
• plumb line;
• timber with a perfectly flat surface.

Often, when performing this action, a strong curvature of the surface of the walls is revealed; they will have to be leveled. This can be done using plaster or glue when attaching sheets. The video tells and shows how to glue drywall to a wall.

The process of installing drywall on the wall

You can attach drywall sheets using glue or foam. If the walls are smooth, then the glue can be applied over the entire surface using a notched trowel with a tooth height of 0.9 cm. After this, a sheet is placed and pressed firmly against the surface. For reliability, the structure can be additionally secured with dowels with nails around the perimeter.

If the wall has uneven surfaces, then the glue is applied in small beads in those places where there is a gap between the wall and the leveled material.


It is necessary to install the sheet and press it without disturbing the geometry. Once the glue has dried, you can begin finishing as described above.