Is it necessary to plaster shell rock before insulating it with basalt wool? How to insulate a shell rock house How to insulate a shell rock house
Do-it-yourself insulation of a house built from shell rock - how and with what?
The advice will apply to many houses of standard construction - for example, those covered with a cement “coat”, popular in the 90s, or plastered and then painted.
The thermal insulation properties of a shell wall, especially if it is only 20 cm, are clearly not enough for a modern home. But only its insulation will not solve all problems. In some cases, this should be done last.
First, you should consider the existing attic insulation.
It is effective if it consists of the following “pie” (from bottom to top): vapor barrier film, mineral wool with a thickness of at least 15 cm, hydrobarrier film, plank flooring on joists.
Secondly, you should deal with the floors. They are not only sources of heat loss, but sometimes also conductors of dampness into the house. Capillary moisture, rising from the ground, creates increased humidity in the house and a feeling of cold. To eliminate this problem, you need to vapor-proof the underground space: remove the wooden floor, lay a thin screed of cement-sand mortar over the ground, paste one layer of roofing felt over the screed, insulate the foundation walls from the inside and mount the insulation on top of the vapor barrier layer.
Upon completion of this work, you can return the floor covering to its place. It is better to use extruded polystyrene foam or high-density mineral wool mats as insulation.
Having solved the problems with ceilings and floors, you can move on to insulating the walls.
The most effective technology is insulation from the outside. In this case, it will be enough to insulate the house with expanded polystyrene foam with a thickness of 5 centimeters (grade no lower than 25) or facade mineral slabs with a thickness of 7 cm.
Before installation, it is necessary to dry test the strength of fastening the dowels to the shell rock. In any case, they should be chosen as long as possible.
A windproof film must be secured over the thermal insulation layer.
Plaster, siding or ventilated façade can be used as finishing.
An alternative option is to insulate the house from the inside under wall-mounted plasterboard structures. In this case, use semi-rigid mineral slabs with a thickness of 5 cm and always a vapor barrier film.
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Insulation of a house made of shell rock.
Do-it-yourself insulation of a house built from shell rock - how and with what? The advice will apply to many houses of standard construction - for example, those covered with a cement “coat”, popular in the 90s, or plastered and then painted. The thermal insulation properties of a shell wall, especially if it is only 20 cm, are clearly not enough for a modern home. But only its insulation will not solve all problems. In some cases, this should be done last. First, you should consider the existing attic insulation. It is effective if it consists of the following “pie” (from bottom to top): vapor barrier film, mineral wool with a thickness of at least 15 cm, hydrobarrier film, plank flooring on joists. In
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We are starting a series of articles about materials for masonry walls. By and large, we will consider facts from the forefront of construction and operation; most of the practical considerations will be focused on the nuances of each material that should be taken into account to obtain the expected quality result. Beautiful marketing articles are the lot of those interested in selling, but we have the whole inside out for a better understanding of the material.
Now let's talk about shell rock (shell rock, limestone).
Shell rock is a rock that belongs to pure limestone.
An absolutely natural and environmentally friendly material, which, in fact, has won the preference of many. I myself have a very respectful attitude towards this material, nature, after all.
For the construction of a private house, shell rock has a number of positive properties - the previously mentioned environmental friendliness, vapor permeability, excellent sound insulation, high thermal inertia, high degree of adhesion with masonry and plaster mortars.
Natural radioactivity high-quality shell rock, according to various sources, is at the level of 13 microR/hour (on sales sites it is clearly underestimated to 6-9 microR/hour), for comparison, the background radiation in Kyiv as of the beginning of 2015 is 15.4 microR/hour.
what sellers are silent about
The websites of companies specializing in the sale of shell rock also indicate such advantages as high thermal insulation qualities, cost-effectiveness of masonry up to 50% compared to brick, and faster completion times for masonry work. These advantages do not manifest themselves in practice at a construction site and later during operation, which means they are strained to increase purchasing attractiveness, nothing more.
In addition, the features of the material that are usually kept silent include a high degree of water absorption, depending on the density, a high percentage of open porosity or increased “holeiness”, often heterogeneity of the stone structure, variation in density, low predictability of the quality of the material delivered from the quarry, and inaccurate geometry.
Much has been written about the positive aspects of the material, but remember its main advantage - its natural environmental friendliness. But this remains an advantage only if the interior decoration of the premises is made with environmentally friendly materials. Finishing with store-bought plasters or drywall (these materials contain a large number of compounds harmful to humans) largely eliminates the environmental friendliness of shell rock for the residents of the house.
high water absorption!
Water absorption of shell rock. Being, in fact, limestone, shell rock is very greedy for water - its water absorption is on average 3-4 times higher in comparison with red brick, i.e. the amount of condensed moisture balanced in the material during operation will be 3-4 times greater under the same conditions. Steam, after condensation and transition to the state of water in the material, replaces air, displacing it from micropores, which leads to an increase in the thermal conductivity of shell rock walls.
Worth knowing:
That is why shell rock cannot be used in rooms with high humidity, below zero and for laying a basement.
That is why shell rock must be thermally insulated during construction, and it is especially correct to do this with a layer of thermal insulation that will bring the dew point from the load-bearing shell rock structures into the plane of the insulation. There will be a separate topic about this in detail.
That is why thermal insulation must be done exclusively with vapor-permeable insulation, which will not prevent moisture from escaping from the structure of the external walls. These include basalt, light adobe, reed, perlite, vermiculite, and light sawdust concrete. In no case should the insulation of shell rock be foam glass and expanded polystyrene, both ordinary and extruded.
porosity and perforation of shell rock
High percentage of open porosity and holeiness negatively affect the thermal insulation qualities of shell rock. A number of stones have through holes visible in the light. Heat passes through such stones not only due to thermal conductivity, but also due to air infiltration, essentially micro-drafts, which carry heat away from the house with a bang.
There are many pores (both open and closed) in stone of lower density and, accordingly, grade, usually M10-15. It cannot be used for structural masonry, only for insulation, decorative work, or in broken form as a filler in screeds.
Denser shell rocks, which are more compressed, have fewer pores. The layers accumulate into a denser layer - limestone takes the place of pores - density increases - the number of micropores important for thermal insulation decreases - the grade of stone increases - load-bearing capacity increases - thermal insulation ability decreases. Such stones, as a rule, belong to the M25 density.
Large, evenly distributed holes, similar to holes in cheese, in such stones are no longer pores, but voids through which heat transfer occurs due to convection, and not heat transfer, as in the case of pores. With convection, heat transfer occurs faster.
There are also through cracks (not pores) in stones of varying densities. These are stones of uneven structure; the difference in densities in the form of different layers is clearly visible on them. The transition zone is always very weak, usually in the form of a gap with rare bridges, the bearing capacity of the entire stone (at the weakest link) is low. Air through such cracks can penetrate to the warm surfaces of the wall due to infiltration.
Open pores, holes and cracks significantly reduce the thermal insulation qualities of shell rock. We have already talked about discomfort from cold walls earlier in this article.
plastering walls
Worth knowing:
That is why you cannot decorate the inside of a shell with wood or plasterboard without first rough plastering the walls.
That is why, for the same reason, it is also worthwhile to carry out rough plastering before external insulation.
That is why in houses made of shell rock, outlets are often siphoned off with cold air if the outlet sockets are not first plastered.
That is why, before installing windows and doors, the internal slopes of openings, including the installation plane, should be plastered.
Plastering in all of the above cases will cover all cracks and holes, reduce the negative impact of infiltration, and additionally create an additional heat-inertial layer on the warm side.
That is why in most cases the thermal conductivity coefficient, which is announced on specialized sites, is very underestimated. The material is displayed from its best side, according to the ideal stone. In reality, the thermal conductivity of shell and solid brick masonry is almost the same. If you have the opportunity, talk to the owners of uninsulated houses. It’s even better to look at the gas meter readings yourself, because in most cases the owners try to embellish the advantages of their home and keep silent about the shortcomings. This is already the psychology of property.
Relatively high thermal inertia . Compared to wood, foam concrete and frame systems - higher, relative to brick or adobe - the same or slightly lower, but in general, shell rock can confidently be classified as a material with high thermal inertia. Whether this is good or not depends on the format of use at home.
house for permanent residence
For a house intended for permanent residence, this characteristic is definitely good. The thermal inertia of shell rock creates the effect of a heat accumulator and radiator of radiant heat during the heating season and coolness on hot summer days.
For a country house without maintaining a constant temperature regime, this quality, on the contrary, is unprofitable. Arriving in winter to cold shell rock walls that have become damp with moisture, warming them up will be a costly and time-consuming undertaking, and staying in such a house will be extremely uncomfortable and a real test of hardening for the whole family.
Shell rock is a material for a house in which you will live permanently.
At the same time, do not under any circumstances decorate the walls with plasterboard, this is fundamentally wrong. In addition to deteriorating the best advantage of shell rock (environmental friendliness), you also lose thermal inertia, move the dew point closer to the warm internal space, which means you increase moisture accumulation in the walls and create improved conditions for the life of fungi and bacteria, and to top it off, you create ideal conditions for rodents to live in. right between the shell rock and the drywall.
Shell stone finishing is a natural plaster based on clay, lime and sand with a small addition of fiber, gypsum/cement. We will definitely talk about natural plasters in detail separately.
This concludes the first part of the discussion of shell rock. The continuation of the article is already ready and is
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We have already mentioned shell rock, its characteristics and properties as a building material in the article - “”, here specialist, professional builder Oleg Gots will give advice on how and how to insulate such a house.
They are suitable for many houses of standard construction - for example, covered with the cement “coat” popular in the 90s or plastered and then painted.
The thermal insulation properties of a shell wall, especially if it is only 20 cm, are clearly not enough for a modern home. But only its insulation will not solve all problems. In some cases, this should be done last.
First, you should consider the existing attic insulation.
It is effective if it consists of the following “pie” (from bottom to top): vapor barrier film, mineral wool with a thickness of at least 15 cm, hydrobarrier film, plank flooring on joists.
Secondly, you should deal with the floors. They are not only sources of heat loss, but sometimes also conductors of dampness into the house. Capillary moisture, rising from the ground, creates increased humidity in the house and a feeling of cold. To eliminate this problem, you need to vapor-proof the underground space: remove the wooden floor, lay a thin screed of cement-sand mortar over the ground, paste one layer of roofing felt over the screed, insulate the foundation walls from the inside and mount the insulation on top of the vapor barrier layer.
Upon completion of this work, you can return the floor covering to its place. It is better to use extruded polystyrene foam or high-density mineral wool mats as insulation.
Having solved the problems with ceilings and floors, you can move on to insulating the walls.
The most effective technology is insulation from the outside. In this case, it will be enough to insulate the house with expanded polystyrene foam with a thickness of 5 centimeters (grade no lower than 25) or facade mineral slabs with a thickness of 7 cm.
Before installation, it is necessary to dry test the strength of fastening the dowels to the shell rock. In any case, they should be chosen as long as possible.
A windproof film must be secured over the thermal insulation layer.
Plaster, siding or ventilated façade can be used as finishing.
An alternative option is to insulate the house from the inside under wall-mounted plasterboard structures. In this case, use semi-rigid mineral slabs with a thickness of 5 cm and always a vapor barrier film.
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Hello!
We don't work on weekends, sorry.
Look what happens. If the house is a permanent residence, then the option with warm plaster is not very suitable, since for Odessa you need an 8.5 cm layer, and this is quite problematic to do well (such a layer thickness). According to calculations, you need 37 mm of cotton wool, if you round up to the positions that (in terms of thickness) are on sale, then this is 50 mm. They are rarely 40 mm (maybe they are imported to Odessa, you can check). But you don’t write what type of façade you want. This could be a facade with plastering over insulation, then wool with a density of 135-145 kg/m3, a special position for external plaster, and you are unlikely to find 40 mm of it, it will be 50 mm. If the facade is to be covered with materials such as siding, panels, then wool with a density of 40-60 kg/m3, then a superdiffusion membrane, a gap and cladding. Specify what kind of façade you plan to have. I can’t help with prices, unfortunately, there is too much variation in the positions of wool and plaster (and it’s generally unclear at what prices who does the work).
There is no need to plaster the facade using cotton wool (neither under a facade with lining, nor under a facade with plastering over insulation).
Ask (I will answer on Monday).
Hello, friends!
Please help me with advice, here's the gist:
During the construction of a private house, a mistake was made: there was no horizontal waterproofing and the walls were laid out with a “shell” directly on the foundation. The 140 cm foundation has vertical waterproofing, under the foundation there is a cushion of 40 cm crushed stone. The water level in the spring rises to 20 cm from the soil surface. Finishing work (neither inside nor outside) has not yet been carried out, but we are now approaching work on waterproofing the floor.
1) What is the best way in this case to cut off moisture rising along the foundation? One expert suggested making grooves (inside and outside the building) 2 cm deep in the seams between the foundation and the shell and treating them with KALMAFLEX penetrating waterproofing. There was also advice to drill holes every 10 cm in shells in a checkerboard pattern outside and inside the building and “pour” liquid glass into them.
2) Is there a need to vertically waterproof the walls or treat them in some way to protect them from dampness and mold? The interior will be finished with plasterboard, and the outside will be insulated (foam plastic-50 mm, or basalt wool-50mm) and plaster, the walls will be lined in one “shell” - width 38 cm.
Thanks everyone for participating!
Topic status: Closed.
At one time we were working on building facades. Here you need to decide how economical insulation you want to get and how reliable it is.
Insulated facades are either ventilated or soft. But the essence of insulation is approximately the same. Some kind of insulation on a disc-shaped dowel and a special composition is attached to the facade and protected either by facade plaster on a mesh or by a hanging system. The insulation can be moisture-resistant foam plastic (blue) or slab insulation made of basalt wool. If you are not going to use a hanging system, then it is better for you to use dense insulation from 35 to 40 kg/m3
It is possible to insulate the house from the inside, but here you need to use exclusively mineral wool insulation, basalt wool, etc. It is undesirable to use polystyrene foam, since it is a polymer and emits harmful substances when warm. The insulation is laid under plasterboard slabs, and the shell rock outside is simply plastered and painted. It should be noted that in the thermal technical calculation all layers are taken into account, starting from the outer plaster. finishing with a layer of drywall, indoors. It is also worth noting that the more wet processes there are during the work, the lower the quality of insulation, due to the need for highly qualified performers. I wish you good luck in insulating your home!I advise you to insulate with mineral wool. Saves heat by 30 - 40%. Good gas and light savings. We did this last fall and did not regret it.
I have a country house made of shell rock. I want to insulate it so that it is not hot in summer and cold in winter. What material is best to use for insulation? There are such slabs called “Clinker”, this is a foam plastic slab with ceramic tiles on the front side. A wall made of these slabs will resemble brickwork, the seams between the slabs must be coated with a special solution in the form of putty, called “grout” it is advisable to coat it before attaching it to the wall, so that later you don’t have to climb the assembled wall and coat it..... time-saving and safer. One slab costs appreciably 2,500 rubles, the slab is about a meter in size!
If we talk about insulation from the outside of the house, foam plastic is now very widely used. The insulation is the cheapest and not the worst in terms of efficiency.
Click to expand...
You're right. Polystyrene foam is not the worst insulation material. Only this is a polymer, and like any polymer it emits harmful substances. There was a time when it was banned for insulating facades, since it not only burns, but also emits toxic substances when burning. If funds allow, it is better to insulate with mineral wool slabs and protect them with some kind of curtain wall. It is both beautiful and practical.
I have a country house built from shell rock. My outer walls are one and a half stone thick. To be honest, I don’t see any point in insulating my house, since shell rock itself retains heat in rooms very well. And in winter you still need to heat yourself with something, whether you insulate the walls or not.
Entgktybt gtyjgk
I have a country house made of shell rock. I want to insulate it so that it is not hot in summer and cold in winter. What insulation material is best to use? Foam insulation is the most cost-effective and reliable option, but only outside the house. But I want to offer you my own version, this is how I built a separate kitchen a couple of years ago. He laid a wall made of shell rock and lined it with sand-lime brick, and between them inserted foam plastic 3 mm thick, with a density of a quarter. For two years now there have been no problems either in winter or in summer.
Click to expand...
Shell rock is a material that looks very impressive, so it is advisable to carry out insulation from the inside of the room. Inexpensive material - “isover”.
Yes, in fact, the options are the same as with any other house - either mineral wool or polystyrene foam, whichever you find cheaper.
I think it’s better to use mineral wool; at least it breathes, unlike foam plastic or penoplex. We insulate our house with it.
I also think that it is better to insulate with mineral wool, not only does it breathe, it is also resistant to rodents, unlike polystyrene foam, it also retains moisture in the house and mice live in it like at a resort.
So everyone got it right: “mineral wool breathes.” How does he breathe? In any case, waterproofing is needed, so the ability to breathe will be limited.
Vadim Martynenko said:
Only mineral wool (basalt or glass)! And that's 5% success. The rest is a strict technology of work and the composition of materials and elements.
Click to expand...
I agree, the choice of insulation is not the most important thing. Technology and materials are very important. So that they don’t redo it later, like I did.
I have a country house made of shell rock. I want to insulate it so that it is not hot in summer and cold in winter. What insulation material is best to use?
Click to expand...
What did you redo, if it’s not a secret?
Click to expand...
Three years ago I hired workers to install insulation and agreed on mineral wool slabs. Everything is ok, I'm looking forward to a warm winter. And in the middle of winter, the plaster began to crack, and immediately there was cotton wool underneath. No reinforcement. I had to beat everything up and re-cover it.
Dominion,
What is there to think about? Of course, 5-centimeter foam plastic will provide adequate thermal insulation. Then plaster it with a special mixture, then cover it with bark beetle and paint it. That's it, rejoice! The prices, by the way, are not very bad.
Dominion,
Those are freaks, honestly. I don’t know how you can not know the basics when working. Now everyone can see that the facade is covered with mesh under the plaster. trouble(((Click to expand...
Yes, the trouble is, I later took Weber Vetonit myself for the exterior and painted them with the same paint on top. Well, we've had a great winter for two winters now, no surprises.
Topic status: Closed.
The porous structure of shell rock, that is, the presence of air cavities inside it, improves the thermal characteristics of the stone. Let's try to figure out whether this is enough to build a warm house or is it still necessary to close the pores of the shell rock with finishing?
By and large, this material is an insulator, since a wall made of M-25 blocks with a thickness of 20 cm better protects rooms from the penetration of cold than a structure made of ceramic bricks with a thickness of 51 cm.
The low thermal conductivity of shell rock can be easily checked, and without the use of special technical means: just put the stone on the stove and heat it. After a couple of minutes, one side will become very hot, while the other will be just warm, but no more.
But still, shell walls should not be left without additional insulation. And primarily because of the heterogeneity of the structure of this stone. The percentage of porosity from stone to stone can vary significantly, so it is worth purchasing shell rock from one batch.
Even if the purchase is made from the same supplier, it is better to immediately take with a possible reserve. However, this does not guarantee that some units of shell rock do not have large or even open pores.
In this case, the shell wall will not breathe, saturating the house with fresh air and regulating its microclimate, but will simply leak through, forcing increased heating costs.
Of course, you can check each stone when purchasing, choose “shells” of the M-25 brand weighing at least 15 kg (and preferably 16 kg), which have a denser structure. But the correct measure is to install an external barrier.
It can be done in several ways, but the most optimal are laying a layer of facing brick at a distance from the main wall (with a ventilation gap), using “wet” insulation technology or creating a full-fledged ventilated facade (with mineral wool as insulation). Such a house will be warm, reliable and still environmentally friendly.
Finishing issues
The natural texture of the shell rock surface is indeed a definite decoration in itself and can be advantageously used when designing the interior of a building.
An open shell wall is especially suitable for homes where wood and other natural materials are used in decoration. And yet, not everyone will like the whole house in the loft style (in which the surfaces of structures and even utility networks are deliberately left open). 
Therefore, in most cases, interior finishing will be required. Most experts do not recommend covering walls made of shell rock with plasterboard: drilling of blocks will be required to secure the profiles, and due to the heterogeneity of the structure, it is impossible to guarantee their durability.
Plaster is ideal for finishing “shell” walls. Moreover, it is not necessary to pre-fix the reinforcing metal mesh - shell rock, due to the same porous structure, has high adhesion, that is, the strength of adhesion to other materials.
True, when carrying out work, it is advisable to first carry out the so-called “spraying” - apply a leveling rough layer of mortar. On top of it, a final finishing is done using cement-sand or gypsum plaster (the latter is only for dry rooms; it is not suitable for bathroom walls).
Shell rock also needs external finishing - you should not leave it untreated, since atmospheric exposure can negatively affect its durability. Applying vapor-permeable plaster to the outside of the facade will protect the stone, and at the same time close the pores of the material and prevent drafts from appearing in the house.
By and large, this material is an insulator, since a wall made of M-25 blocks with a thickness of 20 cm better protects rooms from the penetration of cold than a structure made of ceramic bricks with a thickness of 51 cm.
The low thermal conductivity of shell rock can be easily checked, and without the use of special technical means: just put the stone on the stove and heat it. After a couple of minutes, one side will become very hot, while the other will be just warm, but no more.
But still, shell walls should not be left without additional insulation. And primarily because of the heterogeneity of the structure of this stone. The percentage of porosity from stone to stone can vary significantly, so it is worth purchasing shell rock from one batch.
Even if the purchase is made from the same supplier, it is better to immediately take with a possible reserve. However, this does not guarantee that some units of shell rock do not have large or even open pores.
In this case, the shell wall will not breathe, saturating the house with fresh air and regulating its microclimate, but will simply leak through, forcing increased heating costs.
Of course, you can check each stone when purchasing, choose “shells” of the M-25 brand weighing at least 15 kg (and preferably 16 kg), which have a denser structure. But the correct measure is to install an external barrier.
It can be done in several ways, but the most optimal are laying a layer of facing brick at a distance from the main wall (with a ventilation gap), using “wet” insulation technology or creating a full-fledged ventilated facade (with mineral wool as insulation). Such a house will be warm, reliable and still environmentally friendly.
Finishing issues
The natural texture of the shell rock surface is indeed a definite decoration in itself and can be advantageously used when designing the interior of a building.
An open shell wall is especially suitable for homes where wood and other natural materials are used in decoration. And yet, not everyone will like the whole house in the loft style (in which the surfaces of structures and even utility networks are deliberately left open).
Therefore, in most cases, interior finishing will be required. Most experts do not recommend covering walls made of shell rock with plasterboard: drilling of blocks will be required to secure the profiles, and due to the heterogeneity of the structure, it is impossible to guarantee their durability.
Plaster is ideal for finishing “shell” walls. Moreover, it is not necessary to pre-fix the reinforcing metal mesh - shell rock, due to the same porous structure, has high adhesion, that is, the strength of adhesion to other materials.
True, when carrying out work, it is advisable to first carry out the so-called “spraying” - apply a leveling rough layer of mortar. On top of it, a final finishing is done using cement-sand or gypsum plaster (the latter is only for dry rooms; it is not suitable for bathroom walls).
Shell rock also needs external finishing - it is not worth leaving it untreated, since atmospheric exposure can negatively affect its durability. Applying vapor-permeable plaster to the outside of the facade will protect the stone, and at the same time close the pores of the material and prevent drafts from appearing in the house.