The wired doorbell does not work. Features of wireless calls, installation sequence and possible breakdowns. Wireless call does not work. the main types and designs, their pros and cons, as well as what you should pay attention to when

27.10.2019

Let the doorbell not be business card home, like the front door. But it leaves some idea of its owners. Typically, doorbells are selected by a melody that is activated when the button is pressed. More sophisticated buyers pay attention to specifications such a device. A wireless doorbell is a great way to show your guests your status and taste.

How does wireless calling work?

The operating principle of a wired call is very simple. A wire is laid from the button installed on the outside of the door and connected to the speaker, which is located inside the apartment. Electricity is connected to the speaker. When you press the bell button, the circuit is closed and the speaker is turned on, playing a melody.

Wireless calls use the same principle as their wired counterparts. But to turn on their speaker you don’t need to short circuit electrical circuit call button. The signal from such a button is transmitted to the call receiver using radio waves. The sensor reads them and activates the speaker - a melody sounds.

Due to the absence of wires in the device configuration, the installation of wireless calls is greatly simplified. There is no need to drill holes or run a wire from the button to the bell speaker.

Wireless calls can be of two types:

bell speakers of the first type are connected to electrical network, and the button is battery operated;
in some models, not only the button, but also the speaker is powered by a battery. Installation of such wireless calls consists only of installing a button with outside doors and speaker installations inside the apartment. However, it does not need to be connected to electricity.

Attention! When installing a wireless call, you need to consider the maximum possible distance between the button and the speaker. Depending on the materials from which the walls are made, this distance may vary.

Some wireless calls come with multiple speakers. They can be installed in different parts at home: in the kitchen, garage, workshop, etc. - where there is a possibility of not hearing the speaker front door.

Setting up a wireless call

Inspection of the equipment.

After purchasing such a device, you need to inspect its packaging. In addition to the main components, modern doorbells can have intercom, video peephole, motion sensor modules, etc. Check that all components are in place.

Choosing a location for installation.

We unpack all the components of the call and select the place where its modules will be attached. If the “internal” parts of the call are powered by the network, you need to think about how to provide access to electricity.

You also need to select a location for the external button. Typically, wireless call manufacturers provide the buttons with double-sided tape (“Velcro”). It must be said right away that this option is not very practical. It is best to secure the bell button using self-tapping screws.

This can be done next to the doorway. If this is not possible, then a door leaf can be used for this purpose.

Installing a wireless call button.

Once you have decided on the location, you can proceed to installing the button. If it will be mounted close to the doorway on the wall, then using a hammer drill you need to make holes for the dowels. To do this, you need to select the appropriate drill diameter and drill to the desired depth. We install the button using self-tapping screws.

Attention! The old wired bell button, if you have one, must be carefully removed. To do this, you need to de-energize the wires that come to it, disconnect them from the button and completely remove them from the wall. The technological holes that remain from such wiring must be sealed with putty.

Installation of indoor wireless bell units.

The internal parts of the wireless bell do not need to be hung on the wall. Some modules can simply be placed on a nightstand next to the door or in the place where they will be used. If you decide to attach them to the wall, then again you will need a hammer drill.

Attention! If the internal parts of the wireless bell are powered by electrical power, they must be connected to it. To do this, you need to use the instructions. This procedure is no more complicated than connecting a regular outlet.

Functionality check.

We insert the battery into the button and check the functionality of the system. If a melody starts to sound when you press the button, then everything is installed correctly. You can use it.

Wireless calls for an apartment: video

Wireless bell for apartment: photo

The doorbell is one of the most common devices in everyday life. modern people. When it is in working condition, its importance is almost unnoticeable. But as soon as the bell breaks, it immediately pops up a large number of household inconveniences associated with its breakdown. This article describes instructions for fixing a doorbell.

screwdriver;
rubber gloves;
wire cutters;
indicator screwdriver;
fork;
socket;
two table lamps.

Sequence of actions when repairing a bell

So, if all the tools specified in the paragraph above are prepared, then you can get to work.

Step 1 Power outage

To begin repairs door lock, you must first de-energize it. But it is worth considering the fact that desk lamp must also be fueled by something. To do this, you just need to turn off one automatic plug. Most often, the doorbell is powered by the same circuit breaker as the chandelier, so you need to turn on the chandelier and turn off the plugs one by one until it turns off. Once the required plug is disconnected, you can begin to work. At the same time, it will be possible to connect a table lamp to the outlet.

Step 2 Check for a network break

Before you begin repairs, you need to check the network for a break. To do this, you need to first wear gloves and remove the insulation from the bell wires. Then you need to temporarily connect the socket to the wires, and connect the lamp to the socket. After this, you should turn on the corresponding machine. If the lamp turns on, there is no network break. If switching does not occur, then this is direct evidence of a break in the network. This damage should not be repaired. on our own, and you need to call an electrician.

Step 3 Checking the Equipment Using an Ohmmeter

Again you need to turn off the corresponding machine. Then you need to turn off the temporary outlet. Afterwards, you should connect the ohmmeter to the wires, holding them by the insulated parts. Your partner must press the button, and if at this moment the arrow deviates, this means that both the wire and the button are in good condition.

Step 4 If the ohmmeter needle does not deviate

If the arrow does not deflect, then you need to disassemble the button. Then check the tightness of the ohmmeter contacts and carry out the testing procedure again. If necessary, clean the button contacts. Also, in order to avoid burnout, it is necessary to check the contacts to see if they are constantly occupied.

Step 5 Call verification

After all the above measures have been carried out, it is worth checking it. To do this, you need to connect all the contacts in place, turn on the corresponding machine and perform trial run. If after this the call does not work, then it cannot be repaired. You need to buy a new device and install it as indicated in the manufacturer's instructions. If the call starts working, it means you have done a good job. It is necessary to attach all the elements in place so that the wires do not get tangled or stick out.

The topic of our article today is the technology of connecting an electric bell. Sooner or later you will have to install a new or replace an old device. Oddly enough, you may have difficulties with confusion in the wires, of which, as a rule, there should be 4. Next, we will tell you how to connect a doorbell in an apartment or house, attaching everything to the instructions necessary diagrams and photo.

Wireless

The easiest way is to connect a wireless call, because... this does not require dealing with electrical wiring. Most often, the button and the main unit are battery-powered, so all you need to do is secure all the elements to the wall. The button can be placed on Double-sided tape or drill a small hole in the wall and drive in dowel nails. The doorbell itself can also be mounted on the wall or simply placed on a cabinet in suitable room. Some models wireless devices the buttons are battery operated, and the main unit needs to be plugged into an outlet, as shown in the photo below. In this case, there should also be no difficulties in connecting.

By the way, it is recommended to install the button at a height of 1.5 meters from the floor. This height is considered the most comfortable for turning the signal on/off. As for the optimal one, we talked about this in the corresponding article.

A clear advantage of the wireless model

Wired

Much more questions arise if you need to connect an electric doorbell to a 220 Volt network. In this case, the actions are similar - the phase is started to break to the button, and the zero goes directly to the main block. You can clearly see the wiring of the cores in this diagram:

So, if you have moved into a new building or want to install a doorbell in your house, then you need to proceed as follows:

Select the most suitable locations to install the button and main unit.
Turn off the input circuit breakers at the distribution panel.
Make a hole in the wall for laying the cable that will connect the elements of the circuit. To avoid bumping into other wires when gating, we recommend that you find out.
From the finished hole, draw grooves to the installation site of the button and doorbell. You can do without this step if you carry out open wiring V .
Fix all the elements on the walls, immediately remove the front cover so that you have access to the terminals for connecting the wires.
Connect the neutral directly to the main unit.
Connect the button phase to the doorbell phase.
Connect the phase from the bell to the corresponding terminal in the distribution box.
If the apartment has a ground connection and the same terminal is present in the main unit, be sure to ground the bell.
Check that the connection is correct and turn on the circuit breakers on the panel. Check if the device is working.

This is how you can connect a doorbell in your apartment with your own hands. Sometimes you need to replace the device and the connection technology will be slightly different. If replaced, you will see that 4 wires go into the apartment from the wall. First you need to decide which wire is responsible for what. To do this, we recommend using an indicator. We talked about this in the corresponding article.

So, having rung all the wires, most likely the picture will be as follows - on one of the wires you will find a voltage of 220 V, the others will not ring. This means that the following come out from the wall:

phase from the network 220 (the indicator worked on it);
zero from network 220;
wire going to the button;
wire coming from it.

To connect a bell with your own hands, you first need to turn off the lights in the apartment, and then connect the 1st and 3rd wires. Accordingly, you must connect the second and fourth wires to the main unit, then turn on the circuit breakers on the panel and check whether the circuit works.

The store may offer you two options for doorbells with a button: wireless and wired.

The most interesting and convenient choice wireless call, no wiring required for its installation.

It transmits a signal over a distance of up to 50 meters or more, which is very convenient not only in apartments, but also in private houses, since there is no need to stretch the wire from the gate to the living area.

However, wireless calls have one significant drawback- they run on batteries, which have to be changed frequently.

In this regard, traditional wired doorbells are much more practical, especially if we're talking about about a city apartment where all the wires have already been removed by the builders.

A wired call works on approximately the same principle as any lighting fixture in the room: one of the two power wires of the sound device is supplied directly, and the second is supplied openly (through a button). When the button is pressed, the circuit is closed and a signal is triggered.

This is what it looks like standard scheme doorbell button connection:

Connecting a doorbell button - instructions and rules

You can connect a wired doorbell yourself.

You just need to have it on hand necessary tools and materials:

Electric drill with concrete drill,
Dowel nails of suitable diameter;
Screwdriver with indicator;
Copper two-core wire with a cross section of 0.5 sq. mm. and a cable channel - they will be needed if the wires are not laid;
Construction knife;
Side cutters;
Electrical tape.

A typical wiring diagram for a wired doorbell is no different from a light switch wiring diagram.

The only difference is that a sound device is used instead of a lamp, and a button is used instead of a switch.

Which wire to run to the bell button- phase or zero? Zero is connected directly to the sound mechanism, and phase is supplied to it through a button.

If you have moved to a new building and are going to connect a call, use the following instructions:

Turn off the power supply at the electrical distribution panel;
Choose the most appropriate place for installing a sound mechanism in the apartment and a button near the front door. Optimal height setting the bell button - 145-150 centimeters;
Lay a wire that will connect all elements of the circuit;
Secure the button and sound mechanism by removing the front covers to provide access to the wire terminals;
Connect zero directly to the sound mechanism;
Connect the button phase to the doorbell phase;
Connect the phase from the sound mechanism to the corresponding terminal of the distribution box;
To connect the button, disassemble its body in accordance with the instructions and secure it to 2 dowel nails. Connect two wires to the button contacts - you can connect the wires to the bell button in any order;
Double-check that the wires are connected correctly.

Why might the doorbell button not work?

There may be several reasons why the sound signal does not sound when you press the bell button:

The sound mechanism itself is faulty. To check this, you should try to apply voltage to the bell terminals directly. If the signal does not work in this case, the reason is a faulty sound device.
The button doesn't work. As a rule, the reason is that the bridge does not close the contacts. You can check this by connecting the contacts with a jumper (for example, a screwdriver). There may be no contact due to the formation of oxide on the bridge, which in most cases is made of a copper alloy. The problem in most cases can be solved by cleaning the bridge and contacts.
The button-sound connection is not made correctly. Zero should go to the bell through the button, and phase should go directly to the sound mechanism. To fix the problem, you should check the correct connection and correct the error.
The integrity of the wire is broken. To check the serviceability of the circuit (presence/absence of breaks in it), you should ring the wire with a multimeter (tester).

Attention! When performing the above manipulations, it should be taken into account that the doorbell operates from a 220 V network.

Basic safety rules must be followed when working with electrical appliances.

Answers to frequently asked questions about doorbell button protection

If the bell is installed indoors, no additional measures are required to protect the button. It is a completely different matter when the bell button is installed outdoors, where it is exposed to moisture and temperature changes.

How to protect the bell button from rain? For these purposes, you can build a small canopy from any available means. However, it is better to purchase a ready-made waterproof button. Additionally, it would not be superfluous to treat the surface with hydrophobic (water-repellent) agents.
Are there anti-vandal doorbell buttons for outdoor installation? Yes, there are special buttons on sale in ergonomic metal case increased strength. They are sold separately and cost about 200-300 rubles.

Probably most of us have encountered various wireless calls, especially in conditions dacha farming. And indeed, the gate from country house it is usually located far away, and you want to close this gate more tightly from uninvited traders and dogs. On the other hand, your neighbors won’t be able to reach you - you’re drinking tea at home, and behind the gate your neighbor shouts, “Bosses!” Agree - the situation is familiar. It is clear that perfect option- hang up the intercom. But this is money and not everyone is ready to buy such a device, especially at the dacha, where in winter they can even steal food, let alone equipment. An easier option is to call. But very often you don’t want to run wires from the house to the gate, and in some cases it simply doesn’t work out. And here numerous wireless calls come to our aid, which, for a very reasonable price, can be bought in almost every store. At the same time, manufacturers claim that this is a complete alternative to a regular call, only much more convenient and without any installation problems. But having bought such a call, a person quickly discovers very high consumption batteries in the bell itself (i.e. in the part that is located at home). It gets to the point that the most powerful batteries (which are far from cheap) last for about a month. As a result, a person is either constantly forced to “feed” the device with more and more batteries, or stops using it. But this problem has a very simple solution that can reduce battery costs by orders of magnitude. In today's post I will tell you how to turn a regular wireless call into a reliable and economical device.

But first, a little theory: A wireless call actually consists of a signal transmitter and receiver, i.e. we are dealing with one-way radio exchange. In such a situation, the task of the transmitter, based on a user signal, is to generate a radio pulse maximum power at a specific point in time. Hence, the bell button, into which the transmitter is integrated, is powered by a 12V battery. But this device generates signals very rarely, only when someone presses a button. Accordingly, energy is consumed only at the moment the signal is generated, and the rest of the time the battery does not discharge. Well, since the bell is not a piano, usually the small battery in it lasts for at least a year, or even two or three. Everything, of course, also depends on the distance to the receiver (the greater the signal transmission distance, the sooner the functionality of the call will be disrupted when the transmitter battery drains). Well, from obstacles on the way (to pass a signal through iron or stone obstacles, the charge power requires much more than when transmitting a signal through a wall wooden house). But in general, we can say that the battery in the transmitter “lives” for quite a long time.

Another thing is the receiver that is installed in the house. This device is forced to constantly work “on reception”, i.e. be turned on and monitor the signal of the transmitter, so that when one appears, it will notify others with a call. Not required here high power, but needed Full time job Therefore, as a rule, the receiver uses three AA batteries of 1.5 V each (however, as a rule, only two batteries work for the receiver itself, but we will return to this below).

Accordingly, constant “reception” work drains the batteries quite quickly. As a result, it is the receiver, which seems to be located in the house and is not subject to, say, frost, that “eats” batteries much faster than the transmitter outside. By personal experience I will say that the blue “energizers” become unusable in about a month, accordingly, everything else will “wear out” much faster. I’m generally silent about batteries (you’ll be tortured to charge them).
Such energy consumption is very inconvenient, and the point here is not even the cost (well, honestly, 100 rubles a month is not that much of an amount), but the fact that most often you simply forget to change the batteries on time and, as a result, a guest who you need it, it just doesn’t get into the house. It’s good if he has a phone number, but if he’s a random neighbor passing by your apiary and noticing the swarm flying away...

And so, we found out that the main problem with wireless calls is the rapid drainage of the batteries in the receiving device. But how to avoid this?

The answer, I think, on the surface is to power it from the network. Yes, indeed, power supply from a 220V network can solve the problem of battery energy consumption. But how to do that? I think those who are at least a little familiar with the electric train will say “via an adapter” and, in fact, they will be right. However, if you connect power from a 4.5V adapter to the contacts in the battery compartment of the call receiver, the device will not work in 80% of cases. So what's the deal? What to do if this is exactly your case?

But the fact is that many wireless calls use a “cunning” circuit in the receiver - the board itself is powered by 3V, and the speaker by 4.5V for higher volume. If you disassemble the receiver, you can see that the first two batteries in the circuit power only the receiver board, and together they power the speaker. Accordingly, in order to start the device from the adapter, you need to connect the power supply to the board and the speaker and apply a voltage between the values of 3V and 4.5V to the common contact. I would recommend something in the range of 3.5-4V with mandatory stabilization.

In principle, the connection of contacts is done “one-two” and even without a soldering iron (although soldering is still more reliable), another matter is the power source. It’s good if there is a suitable one, but in my case, for example, this was not the case (as I think most people won’t be, since 90% of all adapters in the average person’s home are chargers from those that have already served their purpose). cell phones and players, and their voltage is higher than required). And even if you find an adapter with a suitable voltage, don’t rush to rejoice. First, check its real voltage using a tester - very often Chinese adapters produce a significantly higher voltage Furthermore what is written on their body. Remember that power supply greater than 4V can “kill” the call receiver.

In principle, a voltage reduction circuit with stabilization can be soldered using resistors and diodes, but to do this you need to have at least some idea of what needs to be done. Here I will not go into such details and will explain “for dummies” what you need to take to get the required voltage.

To begin with, take any 5V adapter (say, iPhone charging from the outlet, but not the original one, but a primitive one made in China, since it actually produces a little more than the required voltage). Personally, I used a similar adapter from an old player.

Next, take an adapter to power the same iPhone from the car's network, disassemble it, take out the board, and in place of the power supply for car models (12V) add the charging output contacts for the iPhone from the network (just watch the polarity). Accordingly, solder the wires to power the bell at the place where the charging voltage for the phone of the car adapter comes out. That's all. A car adapter for charging a phone reduces the current approximately as needed for us, and at the same time has protection against electricity fluctuations. This is exactly what we need. At the same time, all chargers can be bought at the same “Auchan” at a price of 100 rubles apiece (which will pay for itself after two months of using the call).

Then you can insulate the board, but not necessarily - a voltage of 5V will not harm anyone, insulation is needed rather to protect the board itself from accidental influences. Personally, for me it looks like this.