Do-it-yourself desktop router. Making a milling table with your own hands: drawings, videos and photos. Design features of the milling table

Do-it-yourself milling table for a manual router

One of the main assistants of a carpenter is a wood router. This hand tool is indispensable when wooden blank necessary:

• cut a groove;
• make a groove;
• make a tenon connection;
• process edges, etc.

However, when performing some carpentry work, use this tool not always convenient due to the fact that you need to simultaneously hold the workpiece and operate the router. Therefore, many craftsmen resort to tricks by making milling table for a hand router. With a table that is a reliable addition to your milling tool, you can achieve wooden elements the quality and accuracy are in no way inferior to joinery products made in professional furniture workshops on milling machines.

A homemade table for a manual router significantly increases the productivity of the tool and facilitates processing work wooden products. It is not difficult to manufacture such equipment; moreover, unlike a standard milling table produced various manufacturers, this table will have the dimensions, design and options chosen directly by the craftsman who made it.

To perform any engineering work, and the manufacture of equipment is precisely one of these, it is necessary to draw up a sketch of the future machine. On it you need to indicate your vision of the project indicating actual sizes. Based on the sketch, you can easily select materials for manufacturing future design, their quantity, determine the construction budget and stock up on the tools necessary for processing machine parts.

Option 1. Instructions for making a table for a manual router

Materials for making a milling table

To build a milling table you will need:

• 4 square bars;
• chipboard scraps and plywood, the dimensions of which are determined when constructing a drawing of the table;
• hardware (nuts, bolts, screws, hinges, etc.);
• jack;
• metallic profile;
• six-millimeter steel plate;
• aluminum guides;
• movable carriage-support (guide from the saw);
• manual frezer.

Drawing of a homemade milling table (option 1)

In any case, before you start making any such table, the drawing must be completed indicating all dimensions and determining the location of the working elements relative to each other.

Step by step assembly

Let us consider in detail each step in the manufacture and fastening of each element of a homemade milling table.

1st step. To make a stationary base for the table, you will need bars and chipboard scraps, from which we twist the legs and further strengthen the rigidity with the help of horizontal connecting panels made of plywood. In the right side part we cut a hole for the start button, which will be connected to the hand router.

2nd step. The table top is made of chipboard. We make it liftable together with a router, for which we install hinges and make an additional support base from 15 mm plywood.

3rd step. To move the workpiece smoothly along the table, for example, to cut a groove in it, a moving carriage-stop is used. We cut a groove in the tabletop for the guides of the movable stop and install a metal profile into it. You can use a guide from an old saw as a stop carriage.

4th step. Longitudinal stop We also make it from chipboard and make it movable to adjust the gaps around the cutter. To ensure mobility, we cut perpendicular grooves in the upper part of the stop and fasten the stop to the tabletop with clamps. We cut a small groove in the middle to suck out chips and other milling waste.

5th step. From thin plywood we make a box with a hole for connecting a vacuum cleaner hose, which will remove dust and shavings formed during the milling process. We fasten the box behind the perpendicular stop.

6th step. We take a six-millimeter steel plate and screw it to the tabletop flush with the surface. During the fastening process, we make sure that its edges do not protrude above the tabletop, otherwise the parts being processed will cling to them. A manual router will be attached to the plate from below.

7th step. We attach the router by the aluminum base to the bottom of the plate using bolts, but do not forget to pre-drill holes for the bolts in the base. Attaching the hand tool to a removable plate rather than directly to the table saves routing depth and allows for easy cutter changes.

8th step. We are building a router lift. To do this, we use a car jack, which allows us to change the height of the cutter with maximum accuracy.

9th step. We remove the handles from the router and instead screw in aluminum guides, which we connect to the jack mechanism.

Design of a homemade milling table for a manual router

Before you start making a milling table, you need to accurately determine its design features. This article provides instructions on how to make a simple router table. For other first assembly options, see details below.

We check the reliability of fastening of all elements - and the milling table is ready with your own hands!

We offer several more models of wood milling machines made by yourself for your taste.

Option 2. Another milling table and other assembly features

We offer a table design for a router with a detailed analysis of its components.

Materials and tools.

In order to make a table for a manual router with your own hands, you will need the following materials:

• metal corner or pipe (for the frame);
• aluminum guide;
• axles for attaching the router;
• putty, primer and paint for metal;
• self-tapping screws; furniture bolts 6 x 60 mm;
• Hexagonal adjusting bolts with nuts – 4 pcs. ;
• Finnish moisture-resistant laminated plywood, 18 mm thick (you can use another material);
• boards or plywood scraps (for making a rip fence).

The following tools are also required:

• welding machine (for metal frame table);
• drill and drill bits;
• screwdriver;
• jigsaw;
• milling cutter;
• spatula, brushes, rags.

Basic drawings

Design features of the milling table

Under milling machine You can adapt an existing workbench. But it is more expedient, to eliminate the influence of strong vibration during operation of the cutter, to make a separate structure that ensures the stability of the table.

The main loads during equipment operation are transferred to the base. Therefore, the frame must be reliable and stable. The bed is understood as a fixed base on which the router is located. It takes all the loads and is a structure in the form of a table with a fixed lid. It can be made from a metal pipe, angle, channel, wood, chipboard.

It is necessary to take into account that the router itself is attached to the tabletop from below, which means that there needs to be empty space there.

The router is attached to the table through a high-strength and rigid plate to perform installation work. It is preferable to make it from metal, textolite or tongue and groove board.

The base of the router has threaded mounting holes for mounting. If there are no threaded holes, threading is done independently. If the task is impossible, secure the milling device using special clamps.

Start the work by using a milling cutter to select the shape and thickness of the mounting plate. To make it easier, straight corners on the mounting plate must be rounded with a file. A recess in the table top ensures that the plate is positioned flush with the table top.

Make a hole in the center of the plate for the tool to exit, drill holes for attaching the plate to the table. The next step is to drill holes to attach the milling device; keep in mind that the fasteners must be countersunk.

How to make a work surface and base

Making the base of the future milling table begins with the frame. For ease of work, the table cover should protrude 100-200 mm from the front part. Special attention When designing the frame of the bed, pay attention to the installation height of the working surface. This size is decisive for the convenience of working at the machine. According to ergonomic requirements it should be 850-900 mm depending on the person’s height. For convenient operation future milling machine, you can install height adjusters at the bottom of the support. This will allow, if necessary, to change the height of the table; in case of unevenness of the floor, it will help to align the tabletop.

It will be useful as a working surface for a future machine kitchen countertop Soviet times. Most often it is made of 36 mm chipboard sheet covered with plastic. Wood-based material will reduce the vibrations that occur during the milling process, and plastic covering will provide excellent movement over the surface of the workpiece. If you don’t have an old countertop, use MDF or laminated chipboard with a thickness of at least 16 mm.

Choose a place for the future milling machine in your workshop; the dimensions and type of future design depend on this. This may be an aggregate machine located on the side circular saw, desktop version, or maybe a free-standing stationary machine.

If the use of a milling machine is not regular, reduced to one-time work from time to time, it is enough to make a small compact table.

You can make a milling machine yourself. It is a structure that fits on standard table. For work you will need chipboard, two boards. Fasten two boards parallel to a sheet of chipboard. Attach one of them to the tabletop with bolts; it will serve as a guide and as a stop. Use the second one as a limiting stop. Cut a hole in the table top to accommodate the router. Attach the router to the table top using clamps. The compact milling machine is ready.

If your workshop has a lot free space, then make a full-fledged stationary milling machine. It will be more convenient to work on it than on the desktop version

Option 3. Cheap homemade router table

The sketch is ready. Materials have been purchased. The tool, laid out in its place in the workshop, is waiting for the moment to serve its owner. The master is also serious and is not going to grab everything at once. He will sort everything out and do everything step by step.

Start by making the frame of the future machine. You can use the following method for making a frame. profile pipe Using a grinder, cut the 25×25 to size, then weld the blanks intended for the frame on which the working surface will be located. Weld a pipe on one side along which the parallel stop will subsequently move. Weld 4 supports to the frame.

To fix the table cover, frame the perimeter of the frame with a corner, then it will sit in the recess.

Use the second method of making a frame. It implies additional supports for the working surface. Weld stops for milling equipment in the middle of the table. The size between them should correspond to a convenient mounting of the router.

For structural stability, connect the lower supports with jumpers at a height of 200 mm from the floor.

Paint the resulting structure. Why prepare surfaces: clean metal pipes and degrease with solvent, then prime. If there is a need to putty surfaces, use a special putty mixture and apply primer. After completely dry paint with PF-115 enamel.

Cut the work surface according internal size frame, install it tightly in the corners. Then drill holes in the upper frame for fastening the table cover. Mark the tabletop itself, drill and securely connect it to the frame using furniture bolts. Table dimensions 850×600×900.

Step back 200-250 mm from the edge and cut a T-shaped guide along the length of the working surface.

Trim half of the milling axes. This will make it possible to almost double the distance from the sole to the guide axis, which in turn will expand the range of capabilities of the tool.

Remove the sole from the milling equipment, mark holes in the middle of the working surface of the table for its fastening and drill them. Drill a hole in the middle of the table cover for the device. On both sides of it, drill holes for attaching the clamps of the router axes.

On the underside of the tabletop, make a hole for the base of the router.

On both sides of the hole drilled through the hole, make grooves for installing the router axes. The size of the groove and the axis must match.

Along the edges of the grooves with a Fostner drill (picture above), drill holes for adjusting bolts under the hexagon.

Cut two pieces of pipe to fit the width of the large groove and drill holes in the center for the permanent bolts. They will serve as clamps for the axes of the milling device. Screw the nuts onto the bolts.

Install hexagon bolts and nuts on both sides of the axles to adjust the plane of the milling equipment.

Now make a rip fence. Take a small piece of plywood and cut a groove in it so that it can move along the pipe that was previously welded for this purpose. Using a jigsaw, cut three strips of identical size, where its length is equal to the sum of the length of the table and the width of the guide pipe and four plates for them in the form of stiffeners.

On strip No. 1, make a semicircular hole to remove wood waste. It should coincide with the slot in the working surface of the table. In strip #2, cut a square hole in the same location.

Cut strip No. 3 of plywood into equal parts. Attach one to the back of the strip with square hole bolts or using guides. The plywood halves should move in opposite directions. Install an aluminum guide along the upper edge of this strip.

Fasten plates No. 1 and No. 2 together with the sides with half holes. Fasten two stiffening ribs along the edge of the resulting hole and two on the sides at a distance of 70-100 mm from the edge.

Cut a square of plywood to the size of the distance between the ribs, cut a hole in it the diameter of the vacuum cleaner hose. Attach the square to the stiffeners.

Secure the rip fence with clamps. This is done to make it easier to move the stop. If it is intended only for a milling machine, then secure it with brackets with grooves for movement.

Weld a bolt to a 6 mm thick metal strip. Make the clamps from wood with two grooves for two bolts.

Install the milling equipment: thread into side holes cut off axles of the device, put nuts on them and secure the device with pipe clamps.

Turn the table over and use the hex key to lift up the router.

To make it easier to lift the router, it is advisable to install a lift based on a jack.

Option 4. Milling machine based on a desk

A milling machine based on a desk is considered economical and convenient option solutions. The list of photo drawings contains a table with specifications of parts by size and recommended material.

Part sizes and materials

How to make a mounting plate

Due to the thickness of the table top, in order to maximize the output cutting tool, it is necessary to take a smaller thickness of the mounting plate. It follows from this that, with a small thickness, it should have sufficient strength.

The plate can be metal or textolite. These materials best meet the requirements of strength and rigidity. Optimal thickness the plates should be 6 mm. They make it rectangular shape, a hole is drilled in the middle of the part with a diameter corresponding to the hole on the base of the router. To increase the range of use of the tool, rings are used different diameters. The plate has holes for connecting it to the router and attaching it to the tabletop.

The holes in the plate must match the location and size of the holes on the base of the router. To accurately mark the plate, you need to draw a sketch with dimensions or secure it on the table using clamps.

The nuances of assembling a milling table with your own hands

When assembling the milling device, secure a metal ruler at the ends of the width of the table top; this will make it possible to set the parallel fence to the correct size and strictly parallel.

On back side make samples of the table cover for subsequent installation of the dust collector casing, additional equipment. The drawings and photos provided will help you correctly manufacture all components.

To make it easier to turn on and safely turn off your DIY milling machine, install a mushroom-shaped start button and a stop button on the tabletop.

Option 5. Small benchtop router table

A small benchtop milling table and a detailed analysis of its manufacture are shown in the photo.

How to make a top clamp

For processing large parts and creating safe conditions When working on the machine, the so-called top clamp is used. Its production is based on the use of a roller. Before constructing this device, develop a drawing of it.

The roller can be a ball bearing. Its installation is carried out on a special device, which makes it possible to fix the workpiece at any distance from the working surface.

Milling machine drive power

As a drive for a milling machine, it is most advisable to use an electric motor with a power of 1.1-2 kW and a speed of 3000 per minute. When using a low-power electric motor, it will not be possible to use any cutter; the machine will not have enough power. If the speed is too low, a poor-quality cut will be obtained.

You have familiarized yourself with several options for solving the issue; how to get a milling table. Which one you like is your choice. We will be glad if we were able to help you

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2. Glue the right leg WITH to the support B (Fig. 1) and additionally secure with screws. Set the assembly aside. Cut out the kings I. Then make cutouts in the middle support for the drawers. How to carefully make such cuts is described in “”.

3. Using the middle support cutouts IN, mark the width of the upper dividing shelf F (photo A). File the shelf to the final width. Then determine the width of the bottom shelf G and file it down (photo B).

FOR A PRECISION FIT, MARK ONE PARTS WITH OTHERS

Place the bottom shelf G on the middle support B, aligning the edges. Using the cutout as a template, mark the width of the front.

Align one edge of the top shelf F with the cutout and mark its width by placing a mark at the opposite cutout.

4. Glue the top shelf F to the middle support IN, aligning its bottom side with the top edges of the cutouts (photo C). Once the glue has dried, glue the bottom shelf in place. G.

Cut out two spacers 108 mm long from the scraps and, using them to level the lower shelf, glue it to the middle support B.

The combination drill allows you to make countersunk mounting and pilot holes in one operation without changing the tool.

5. After drilling the mounting and guide holes, glue the left leg D to the assembled unit B/F/G and additionally secure with screws (photoD).

Quick tip! Using glue and screws, you can fasten several parts of the base at once. Screws speed up assembly because you don't have to wait for the glue to completely dry before attaching the next piece. Cut out the back wall J and, having tried it on the opening, make sure that the upper edge is flush with the cutout of the middle support IN. Glue the back wall in place and secure with clamps.

6. Glue the drawer in place I, fixing them with clamps (photo E). Then secure the last support with glue and screws IN. When the glue is dry, mark the exact length of the top strip N (photoF) and glue the part in place (Fig. 1).

Glue the drawers I into the cutouts flush with the top shelf F. Then glue the left support B in place, securing it with additional screws.

To ensure that the drawers I are parallel to each other along their entire length, mark the exact length of the top strip H by attaching it to the left side of the base.

7. Take the right support with the leg again B/C and attach to the assembled left side of the base B/D/F-J using glue and screws (Fig. 1). Then glue to the left and right supports IN slats E, fixing them with clamps. Using a sanding block, make a rounding with a radius of 3 mm on the upper outer edge of the left strip.

Milling table drawings

It is difficult to achieve accuracy when measuring and marking out project details using a tape measure and ruler, especially if the actual thickness of the plywood differs from the nominal thickness. Instead, for accuracy, it is better to use the parts themselves or scraps of material for dimensional adjustment of machines. To make precise cuts for frame I in middle support B, follow this method.

To adjust the width of the cutout, make a cut in the plywood scrap, lifting the disc so that a small burr remains on the edge.

When adjusting the cutting depth, measure the distance from the stop to outside saw blade teeth.

Attach a wooden plate to the head of the cross (angular) stop and cut a cutout into the part in several passes. The longitudinal stop serves as a limiter during the last pass.

Tackle the lid

1. Take the previously cut cover A and mark its center by connecting opposite corners with straight lines. Using a hole saw, make a 38mm hole in the center of the lid (photoG).

Use clamps to secure cover A to the workbench, placing a board underneath to prevent chipping. Drill a hole in the center of the cover for the cutter.

Place the plastic router foot pad on cover A and center it so that the power tool controls are accessible from the front.

2. Remove the plastic cover from the base of the router that you are going to install in the table and, using it as a template, mark the centers of the mounting holes on the cover (photo N). Drill holes and countersink them.

3. Cut out the cover strips TO. Mark the centers of the three holes on one of the strips (Fig. 2). Drill holes with a diameter of 6 mm (photo I). Glue the strips to the lid A and secure with clamps.

Secure both K-planks to the workbench by stacking them and placing a board underneath to prevent chipping.

Drill a 5mm hole through the axial hole. Then make a 6mm hole on the right. The depth of the holes must correspond to the length of the fastener.

4.Put the lid A/K onto the base and align the axial hole in the middle of the end of the strip E, focusing on the middle layer of plywood veneer. Then through the holes in the top bar TO drill a 5mm diameter hole for the axle screw and a 6mm diameter hole for the right locking screw (Fig. 1, photoJ). Add washers and screw a 6x35 mm cap screw into the axial hole. Lift the cover and drill a 6mm hole through the left locking hole for the locking screw that secures the cover in the raised position.

Add a rip fence

1. Cut out the front wall and the base of the stop L. Mark identical semicircular cutouts (Fig. 3). Then, as described in the Master's Tip, carefully cut them out with a jigsaw. Glue the front wall to the base and secure with clamps.

2. Cut out the spacers M and clamps N. Glue the spacers to the clamps. When the glue dries, place the stop L/L on assembled clamps M/N, align the parts and drill through holes with a diameter of 6 mm (Fig. 3, photoL).

Using a board to prevent chipping, align the L/L stop over the assembled M/N clamps. After securing all parts with clamps, drill a through hole, then do the same on the other side.

Set the crosscut gauge to 45° and cut two gussets from both ends of the strip. Set the angle to 90° again to cut two more gussets.

3. Cut out triangular gussets from a plywood strip measuring 19x76x305 mm O (photo M). Glue them to the assembled stop (Fig. 3).

Make durable boxes

1. From 19 mm plywood, cut two blanks measuring 100 × 254 mm for the front and rear walls R. Cut out two back walls from one piece and set them aside. On the second piece, mark the cutouts for the front walls. (Fig. 4) and carefully cut them out (see “Tip of the Master” below) before dividing the workpiece into two front walls.

Quick tip! Make the cutouts more convenient before you start cutting out the front walls, so that the sole of the jigsaw does not rest against the clamps pressing the workpiece.

Method for cutting sharp bends with a jigsaw

Even if you install a file with the smallest teeth in a jigsaw, it is not easy to make neat cuts with a small radius, since the file gets stuck in the cut, heats up, and burns occur.

Try this method: before cutting along the contour, make frequent straight cuts from the edge of the part, as shown in the photo on the right. Then cut out the cutout, holding the saw slightly indented from contour line. As the saw moves forward, the small pieces created by the straight cuts will fall out one by one, without impeding the movement of the file and giving room for maneuver if the path needs to be slightly changed. Sand the edges of the cutout to the contour line using a trim plastic pipe, wrapped in sandpaper.

2. Cut out of 12mm plywood side walls Q and bottoms R. Set these details aside.

3. Attach the router to the underside of the cover A. If the original soleplate screws are too short, replace them with longer ones with the same thread.

4. Insert a 12 mm wide fold cutter into the collet. Install the stop as shown in rice. 3. Route 12x12mm folds along three sides of the front and back walls R. Replace the cutter and make roundings with a radius of 3 mm on the edges of the semicircular cutouts of the front walls.

5. Assemble the boxes by gluing the parts and securing them with clamps (Fig. 5). Make swivel locks from scrap 6mm plywood S and sand the rounded corners with a radius of 6 mm. Drill counterbored mounting holes and attach latches to the leading edge of the middle support B (Fig. 1). Now insert the drawers, fill them with bit boxes and you can start routing.

Compared with hand tools, a do-it-yourself milling table allows you to obtain a more precise degree of processing of the material. Rigidly mounted router, cuts confidently various breeds wood, plastic, coated particle boards. It is possible not only to chamfer, but also to make a groove, a spline, a slot, a tenon, a groove, and a profile cut.

How to choose a practical option

Eat different ways make a homemade milling table, but the design principles of most models are the same.

First, choose one of 3 types of milling installation, which determines the dimensions and location of this equipment in the carpentry workshop:

• Mounted. A separate aggregate unit, which is attached to the sawing machine on the side using clamps. Allows you to use work surface other equipment, can be easily removed, put away with your own hands if not needed.
• Portable. A desktop modification that they strive to make with minimal required sizes bed and milling table. An efficient machine to use when frequently moving around construction sites.
• Stationary. The main type of table for established production, provided there is sufficient space in the room. This is no longer just a milling cutter, but an equipped workplace.

You need to develop a drawing of the future table with your own hands, already knowing the installation dimensions and the weight of the milling part (with motor). Section, location load-bearing elements must combine strength and easy access for installation and maintenance.

DIY materials

The working plane of the table ensures smooth sliding of the workpiece in one plane. They do this task well laminated chipboard sheets, MDF. To prevent the tabletop from bending under the weight of the router, take a slab with a cross section of 2.6/3.6 cm. For the side parts, a sheet of chipboard with a thickness of 1.6 cm or more is sufficient.

The mounting plate on which a massive router is attached, by definition, has high strength and rigidity. From sheet materials Metal, textolite, and hardwood plywood are suitable for it. The thickness of the plate does not exceed 0.8 cm.

The load-bearing support of the table is made with your own hands from metal profile, sheet chipboard. Sometimes these are just legs with elements of rigidity, in other cases the table includes front-mounted drawers for tools, small equipment, and utility devices.

The main part - the milling cutter - is purchased from industrial production.

Electric motor power for woodworking starts at 500 W. Full milling of hardwood requires power in excess of 1 kW (up to 2 kW). Voltage 230/380 V. Most models have speed control.

Additional devices

Creative use in milling design homemade table additional equipment allows you to significantly expand its functionality. Achieve smooth adjustment The height of the cutting part above the plate can be obtained if you make a lift for the working part with your own hands. To this end vertical axis The assembly rests on a screw with a fine rectangular thread passing through a fixed nut. Rotating the flywheel on the rod regulates the feed of the cutter. The mechanism is equipped with side stops to prevent bending and a lock nut to hold it in a given position during vibration. If possible, they install more complex elevators - a car jack, tailstock from a lathe.

Another addition is a steel ruler along the longitudinal axis of the guides of the workpiece. Practical, convenient, allows you to control the sample size, frees your hands for other operations.

Tool

To make all the details of the milling table with your own hands you will need:

• hacksaw, electric jigsaw;
• emery, grinding machine;
• electric planer;
• drill;
• chisel;
• screwdriver, screwdriver.

The use of electro-mechanical tools speeds up work on the manufacture of tabletops, guides, oblique stops, but, if necessary, operations can be performed with your own hands and hand tools.

Machine components

A necessary quality that a table for a do-it-yourself hand router must have is resistance to vibration. Using used workbenches does not always solve this problem.

bed

The legs on the side where the carpenter is located are placed a little further from the edge of the table (0.1-0.2 m) for stable placement of the legs. The control panel is also located here.

The height above the floor is set adjustable feet within 0.85 - 0.9 m.

The size of the upper working plane will largely determine the size of the intended raw material. On average, it is enough to make 1.5 × 0.5 m. Based on this, set the distance between the supporting places of the frame.

Attachment of the working element

The router is brought to the tabletop from below, and placed on top mounting plate, tighten them with 4 screws with countersunk heads. The upper plane of the table should be without protrusions and depressions. To do this, the plate must fit into a pre-cut recess, which must be made exactly along its outer contour. Drill 4 through holes for the bolts. Additional fastening to wood is provided with self-tapping screws.

The shape of the plate is transferred from the lining of the router sole. Inner part cut out in the form of a square frame with sufficient margins to accommodate holes for fastening bolts.

You need to make a round hole in the table board, large enough for the cutter to fit through. An opening that is too wide is covered with additional rings - liners to prevent material scuffing during milling.

Work area equipment

The following devices on the milling table are designed to maintain the accuracy of milling processing and the direction of feed of the workpiece:

1. Guides. They are located along the lumber supply line to support the board on established amount protrusion of milling knives. They can be made from the same chipboard as the body. 3 strips are cut along the length of the table. In 2 of them, an opening is cut out for the cutter: the first is semicircular (the board will lie horizontally), the second is rectangular in its height (it will lie vertically). The guides are placed at right angles and secured with 4 oblique stops. In the horizontal one, slots are made for bolts to adjust the output of the cutter. The third strip is cut in half and placed on the front side of the corner. By moving apart, it maintains a minimum gap between the rotating knives and the fixed stop. It is fixed with self-tapping screws and an overhead plate in the upper part.
2. Clamps. It is permissible to do it in the form wooden comb(maple plate with uniform cuts of 2x50 mm with a pitch of 5 mm along the grain) or a ball bearing of the required weight and size.

• Lid. On the back side of the guides, the rotating head must be closed for safety reasons.

An additional option may be a pipe for connecting a vacuum cleaner, placed under the cutter cover.

Finishing touch

After assembly, all parts are ground and working surfaces are polished. The sides and bottom are painted and varnished. Electrical part closed with a metal sleeve.

Usually, to perform some new work, new tools are required. As a programmer, I am very familiar with this, since for many years I have had to create libraries and write utilities for each new task. These are the very tools with which solving the following problems becomes simpler and easier. This is probably true in many areas, except those where you have to create everything from scratch, using only knowledge and skills. (Maybe this is why I don’t really like to draw, for example, because I’m used to using previous developments).

I finally finished my router table. (It took 7 evenings to create). At first I thought of buying a ready-made one, but the ones I found for affordable money and suitable for my work did not suit me at all. And I decided to make it myself using the hand router that I had Caliber FE-650E.

A milling table is a very useful handicraft tool. I hadn’t thought much about this before, but if you look around in any house, you can see many objects that have been processed on the milling table: window frames, furniture doors, picture frames, wooden baseboards, door frames, trims, etc.

First, as usual, I modeled it in a 3D program. I didn’t copy someone else’s table, but developed a model for myself, having seen a bunch of ready-made similar milling tables on the internet. The idea is general, the essence is the same, the details differ, because... everyone realizes it for themselves, using what they have and what they are capable of.

The side stop has grooves and slots and can move back and forth and is fixed in in the right position two lambs. A chip discharger is connected to the angle stop. (The milling cutter produces a lot of chips during operation) If required, the side stop can be easily removed and replaced with other devices or nothing at all.

The stop has two doors that can move apart and slide depending on the size of the cutter. The position of each leaf is fixed with thumbs.

A regular vacuum cleaner hose is connected to the chip discharger.

This model did not have a router fine adjustment depths. It was necessary to press on the router and use a clamp to catch the desired depth. (It should be noted that this is terribly inconvenient. You have to struggle with rearranging the depth several times to get to the right one)

I modified the frame by adding the so-called “elevator”.

I drilled the frame and installed an adjusting screw with a high nut (in the picture in the center). By tightening the nut, you can smoothly adjust the depth.

This is how the depth is adjusted: set desired value on the square, and using a wrench, lift the cutter until it stops against the square.

The only remaining inconvenience is that this procedure requires two hands. You need to press the depth lock on the router with one hand and turn the nut with the other. I have a solution, but haven't had time to implement it yet. When I do it, I can adjust the depth with one hand. And the clamp to hold the corner will no longer be needed.

Please note that the top of the side support is specifically designed to be attached to various devices.

In general, there are ready-made sites for the manufacture of milling tables on sale. There are some with holes for specific models of the router, and there are universal ones in which you can drill holes for your model yourself. The platforms are quite expensive (1500-5000 rubles) and are much larger in size than required for my mini-table.

I made my own platform for the router from plexiglass (6mm), removing the original one plastic platform from the router bed.

Fitting the glass to the window.

First samples.

The stand for the cutters is processed by the cutter on the left. I processed the planks for her

By the way, a cutter with a roller does not require a side stop. This way you can process the edges on a bare table, although it is still more convenient to have another point of emphasis, especially when processing cylindrical workpieces.

What I have left to finish:
- Cut a couple of glasses to install larger diameter cutters.
- Make clamping devices that are installed on the side stop and table top, ensuring tight pressure of the workpiece to the cutter.
- Improve convenient key regulating the depth of the cutter.
- Workpiece advance limiters (on the side stop).
- Special paw-pushers for the workpiece (A router is a dangerous tool. If I seriously injure my hands, it will be especially bad for me, because after that I will not be able to play most musical instruments).
- Special stop for working with edge cutters.
- Angle stop with a protractor, a device that allows you to move the workpiece at a certain angle using a rail.
- Sleds for feeding the workpiece along the table at a right angle.
- A device for cutting "box joints".
- Trap container for chips. (The original vacuum cleaner bag gets clogged very quickly)
- Well, and some other little things.

I hope that this post will be found by those who may find it useful.

Other interesting posts about mine homemade instruments:






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For ease of working with the router, craftsmen install it permanently and move the workpiece. When working this way, we're talking about no longer about manual router, and the so-called “milling table”. In this article we will try to explain how to make a wood milling machine with your own hands.

Which router to choose

There are many types of routers. Before choosing one, you need to consider what purposes you will need it for. More complex workpieces will require a more powerful and resourceful router. Experts recommend choosing a router with manual adjustment and automatic spindle stabilization.

Milling cutters with systems are very convenient soft start and a quick stop. And if the tool allows you to replace the motor brushes without opening the housing, then there will be no price for it at all. This is truly a significant plus.

In many operating instructions, manufacturers of milling machines advise against using it upside down. In general, these restrictions are not justified and can be ignored.

Advice: choose a router with a power of at least 2 kilowatts in order to confidently work with any wood. It should also have a speed control, which is usually found on all models. As for whether it’s worth buying brands like Bosch or Makita, my opinion is that if you work professionally and every day, then it’s worth it, but if for yourself, then an inexpensive Chinese one is enough.

Video do-it-yourself milling table

Milling table bed

An important part of the tool is a special frame (bed). This is a frame on supports, on top of which there is a tabletop. The frame can be made of any material: metal, wood, chipboard, etc.

The main thing is that it is tough and stable. Size too special significance does not have. It all depends on what size parts you will be working with.

To provide comfortable work machine operator, bottom part the beds need to be deepened.

Thanks to this, the operator does not cling to the structure with his feet while working. We recommend making a bed with adjustable supports that will allow you to work on any uneven floor.

A DIY wood milling machine is notable for its huge selection of creation options. You can create it completely for yourself.

Table top

Nothing complicated here. One option is a regular kitchen countertop covered with special plastic. The workpiece will glide perfectly on the plastic, and the board will dampen vibrations well.

Router mounting plate on table

A plate with high strength and low thickness. As a rule, it is made of metal or textolite ( last option easier to use).

A rectangular plate with a hole in the center. The router is then attached to the mounting plate. In order to secure the tool with the plate to the table, four holes need to be drilled at the corners of the plate.

The simplest DIY milling table, drawings

Now we get to the essence of this article. So how to assemble a wood milling machine with your own hands? First, to finished frame(bed) the tabletop is temporarily attached. Then place the mounting plate on the tabletop and mark its position. Next, using a router, select a seat for the plate on the tabletop.

It should be installed perfectly with the top plane of the tabletop. Finally, it is necessary to mill the hole according to the shape of the router sole and connect it all together. Of course, you will have to tinker with some aspects, but the main thing is to follow all the instructions.

Upper clamp

For more comfortable work, the table can be equipped with an upper clamp. A regular ball bearing will do.

It will allow you to tightly fix the workpiece. This will allow you to improve the quality and speed of your work, as well as save your nerves and effort.

Safety

We need to focus on the most important thing – safety. Firstly, it is recommended to set the cutter protective screen. Secondly, equip the tool with an emergency stop button. The button should be in a place that is easily accessible to you, but at the same time, not interfere with your work. Third, work area can be further illuminated.

All these points will only add to your comfort at work, because you cannot skimp on safety. Create for your health.