Wall Clock- this is a very practical interior detail. In the kitchen, they make it possible to keep track of time without being distracted from cooking or turning on the phone for this (especially since your hands may be covered in flour, oil or something else while cooking). Located in the room, they allow you to quickly find out the time without reaching into your pocket for your mobile phone. Eco-style lovers can make a watch out of wood with their own hands.

What are the benefits of wooden watches?

Wood is a special material, objects made from it have a number of advantages:

1. Naturalness.
2. Low cost(provided that the product is made by hand, because processing by a craftsman is often quite expensive, especially if it is an individual order).
3. Originality. Many people like to look at interior items from natural wood, however, not everyone decides to keep such things in their home.

Clocks made from juniper or other healing tree, will disinfect the air. To do this, they should not be varnished. The look will be more natural if you carefully rub the sandpaper over the surface.

If you make a clock from a cut tree with your own hands, you can leave a layer of bark. This will give the product a more natural look.

How to choose a tree

The first step is to decide on the type. Will it be linden, soft enough and easy to process, hard oak or healing juniper? You can choose what is easier to get or buy, and then cover it with stain to suit the desired look.

After selecting the type, you should find suitable material. There are several possible options in this matter:

1. You can purchase ready-made sawn timber at a sawmill, in souvenir or specialized stores, or via the Internet.
2. Make it yourself if you have a suitable stump or log, a chainsaw and the ability to use it.
3. Wait until the annual sanitary inspections are carried out and ask the workers to cut off the required piece. Or take a whole block of wood from them and continue to act in accordance with paragraph 2.

How to prepare material

Before making a wooden clock with your own hands, you should spend time preparing for work. Once the material is found, it should be left in a dry place for two weeks to dry. This is not necessary if the cut was purchased in a store, but even wood purchased at a sawmill can be damp. If the material was taken from freshly cut trees, the moisture level in it is many times higher than permissible. Such a workpiece, not previously dried, should not be used.

If you neglect to dry the wood, cracks may form in the finished watch. In the worst case, the saw will split, and all the work done will be ruined, and you will have to start all over again.

Materials and tools

There is nothing difficult in making a wooden watch with your own hands if you have high-quality raw materials and tools. What you need to prepare before you start:

1. Dry sleep.
2. Watch mechanism (you can disassemble old ones or buy cheap ones).
3. Paint either burning apparatus(if the numbers are planned not to be drawn, but to be burned).
4. Scissors.
5. Electrical tape or paper
6. Hot glue gun.
7. Fine-grit sandpaper or sander.
8. Hammer and chisel.

Can be avoided unpleasant situation, when in the process of work it suddenly turns out that something is missing, if you make a list of what you need in advance and check it.

How to make a clock out of wood with your own hands

In order not to complicate your life by sanding the cut or preparing the dial after installing the mechanism, it is important to follow correct sequence actions:

1. Drill a hole for the arrows in the center of the cut.
2. Use a chisel and hammer to make a recess for the mechanism with reverse side.
3. Process the dial and recess sandpaper or a grinding machine.
4. Install the mechanism, attach it with electrical tape and secure the box in which it is located using a heat gun.
5. Draw or burn numbers on the dial.
6. Set arrows.
7. Install the mount on the reverse side so that the clock can be hung on the wall.

Without spending too much time and effort, you can make a clock out of wood with your own hands. An item made by hand in a single copy looks much more interesting than a mass-produced product.

Variety of wooden clocks

A watch made from sawn wood is one of the simplest options. By analogy with them, it can be made not from a transverse, but from a longitudinal die. The product will turn out irregular shape, therefore it is important to select the material so that the longitudinal section has a beautiful shape.

There are many options on how to do it beautiful watch made of wood. Wall-mounted, with your own hands, made for yourself or as a gift, they will delight their owners for a long time.

Possible design options wooden clock:

1. Cut out furniture board the basis of the desired shape.
2. Make non-standard symbols for numbers. For example, in the form of coins or wooden balls. You can do without numbers and their designations completely
3. Take a lot of thin dies or wooden rulers, fasten them so that you get a volumetric circle with a thickness equal to the short side of the die. You will get an original dial.
4. You can use birch bark, stretched in a frame of beautiful branches cleared of bark, as a dial.

Craftsmen can make more complex wooden watches with their own hands.

Mechanism drawings can be found on the Internet on specialized resources. In order to create such models, you must have certain experience and skills. More simple options, described above, can be done by anyone with such a desire and a little patience.

Opening the boxes of works sent to the competition, we discovered something in one of them that immediately aroused admiration, and we are sure that many will want to repeat this project. It is distinguished by its uniqueness, careful thought of all elements and, undoubtedly, attractiveness. With the permission of the author of the project, we only slightly changed its proportions and design to make its production accessible to most of our readers, and asked our craftsmen to make another sample. Now that all the intricacies of this work have become known, you can repeat it according to our descriptions.

Make blanks for the body walls

Having cut everything out side walls and arch parts from one long board, you can be sure of the continuity of the texture pattern and color match on the parts of the finished body.

Note. To make the texture pattern on the side walls and top curve look continuous, we sawed all the parts sequentially from one board (see “Cutting diagram”). Onphoto A shows the side walls and top parts aligned before gluing after making bevels at an angle of 22.5° at their ends.

1. Take a 1050mm long board (we chose mahogany), edge it to a thickness of 29mm, lining both sides, and then saw it to a width of 127mm.

2. Having sawed one end of the board exactly at a right angle, saw off one side wall A. Mark its lower end with the number “1” and draw an arrow that will point inside the finished body. Using cross cuts, separate four 81 mm long pieces for the top rounding parts IN, numbering them sequentially with numbers on inside. File the second side wall A to its final length and mark its lower end with the number “2” and an arrow pointing inside the future body.

3. Make four copies of the top piece template IN. Using spray adhesive, attach them to the front edge of each of the four pieces.

4. To do on the details IN Bevels at an angle of 22.5°, using a miter saw, securing the stop, cut the bevels on the same ends of each piece. After repositioning the stopper, make bevels on the other end of the four pieces.

Mill the lamella socket in the middle of the end of the arch parts.

5. Adjust the router's stop to 22.5° so that the #20 slat seat is centered on the final thickness of the top pieces. B (photo B).(This position is marked by a line on the edges of the template.) Make sure that the nests will be made exactly in the middle of the width, and rout them into the bevels of each piece.

6. B planer treat both side walls A to a thickness of 19 mm, removing material from both sides. Set the lamella router to this thickness and make a #20 lamella slot in the top end of both walls in the middle of the thickness and width of the pieces.

Glue the blanks for the top and add the side walls

When gluing an arch from several parts, arrange the clamps symmetrically and do not tighten them too much. It is only enough for the joints to close.

1. Make a fixture from MDF or plywood (Fig. 2). Dry assemble the rounded top parts to ensure that they fit together tightly (photo C). Apply glue, insert the slats into the slots and connect the workpieces, aligning their edges. Do not tighten the clamps too much - just make sure there are no gaps in the joints.

2. Band saw remove excess material from both sides of the glue by cutting close to the line. We used a new 6mm wide saw blade and set the machine table at an exact 90° angle to it.

3. Then, using 80 grit abrasive, sand the arch down to the contour lines until its thickness is 19mm. You can sand the arch by hand, but we recommend making the simple equipment described in the article "Extra Long Sanding Drum".

A pair of strap clamps hold the body parts together. The parallelism of the side walls is ensured by two temporary spacers.

4. Dry connect the side walls A with glued arch IN. From the scraps, cut two spacers measuring 127x165 mm, which will ensure parallelism of the rear walls while you install the strap clamps (photoD). When the glue is completely dry, use sanding to smooth out the transitions from the arch to the side walls.

Look at what is shown in (Fig. 3) position of tongues on inner surface manufactured part of the body - one with an indentation of 10 mm from leading edge parts, and the second at a distance of 6 mm from the rear edge. Select these tongues with a 6mm spline bit set in the router table. At our cutter

Using a slotted cutter, the grooves on the inside of the finished part of the body should be removed in a counterclockwise direction.

5. Consider what is shown in (Fig. 3) The position of the tongues on the inner surface of the manufactured part of the body is one at a distance of 10 mm from the front edge of the parts, and the second at a distance of 6 mm from the rear edge. Select these tongues with a 6mm spline bit set in the router table. In our cutter, the bearing that limits the depth of milling is located below the cutting elements (photo E).

6. Now replace the spline cutter with a rebate cutter and make a 3mm, 6mm deep rebate around the front of the side walls and top of the cabinet.

To complete the body, add the bottom, front and back walls

Applying in drilling machine ballerina ring cutter, reduce the speed, and use stops to fix the workpiece.

1. From a 19 mm board, cut a blank measuring 171x178 mm for the front wall WITH. Mark according to rice. 4 top rounding and hole with a diameter of 83 mm for the clock mechanism. Make a hole in the front wall using a ballerina cutter on a drill press (photoF). Using a band saw, saw off the top of the workpiece along the radius and sand the edges of the part smoothly.

Note. If the clock mechanism has different dimensions, change the diameter of the hole in the front frame accordingly.

2. Place a rebate bit in the router table and make a 12mm rebate 6mm deep (Fig. 4).

3. Cut out the blank for the front trim D. Mill a 3mm radius fillet along the top and bottom edges of the workpiece, creating the profile shown in rice. 3. Glue the front trim to the bottom edge of the front wall, lining up the back sides of the pieces.

4. Cut out the back wall E made of 6 mm plywood (“List of materials”, rice. 1). Insert it into the tongue of the finished body part A/B and make sure the bottom edge of the piece is flush with the bottom of the side walls A. Do not glue the back wall to the body yet.

5. Insert the front wall with the pad glued C/D into the tongue of the assembled part of the body. Cut out thin slats-liners F and glue them in place (Fig. 3).

6. Saw out the bottom G. Rout 3mm radius fillets along both ends and the leading edge at the top and bottom. To avoid chipping, first process the ends of the part with a milling cutter.

7. Drill in the bottom G mounting holes with a diameter of 4 mm and countersink them (Fig. 1). Place the body on the workbench and press the bottom against it, aligning it in the center. Through the mounting holes in the bottom, drill 2.8×13 mm guide holes in the lower ends of the side walls A. Attach the bottom to the cabinet using 4.5x32 countersunk screws.

8. Cut out the guide rails N For drawers. For safe work we used a splinter pad and a pusher.

A simple device made from a piece of MDF with grooves allows you to glue four runners to the inside of the case in one go, aligning them perfectly.

9. Make the mounting template shown in (Fig. 5.) Mark both edges with arrows pointing up to prevent accidental overturning while installing the runners. Insert four runners into the grooves of the template N (photoG) and lightly coat their open edge with glue. Insert the template with the runners into the housing close to the bottom G and press it with clamps to the side wall A. Let the glue dry for a few hours and then glue the runners to the other wall.

10. Saw out the legs I. To safely process their ends and edges, set the milling table to a minimum clearance around the cutter. To do this, secure a semicircular cutter with a diameter of 12 mm in a collet and lift it above the surface milling table. Then position the rip fence so that it lightly touches the cutter blades (Fig. 6). Lower the cutter below the table surface and place a square piece of 6mm hardboard measuring 300x300mm on top of it, securing it with strips double sided tape. Turn on the router and slowly lift the rotating bit through the hardboard until it protrudes 2 mm from above (Fig. 6). Mill semi-circular grooves along the ends and edges of each leg I.

11. Use sanding to soften the sharp edges on the legs. (Fig. 3). Glue the legs to the bottom G, placing them flush with the rear edge of the bottom and retreating 6 mm from the front edge and corners.

Start making boxes

1. Cut out the front/back J and lateral TO walls of drawers. Install in sawing machine set-up groove disk 10 mm thick and secure it to longitudinal stop wooden overlay. Move the stop close to the disc and secure it. Adjust the disc offset and cut on the front and rear walls J folds 5 mm deep (Fig. 7).

2. Now install a 6 mm thick groove disk into the saw machine, rearrange the longitudinal stop and cut out tongues on the inside of the front, rear and side walls J, K at the bottom edge (Fig. 7).

3. Cut out the bottom L drawers. Dry assemble the drawers to check the fit of all parts. Then glue the boxes together, securing them with clamps, and make sure they are square and free of distortions.

4. To make partial tongues in the side walls of drawers, install a straight line in the collet of a router mounted in the table. slot cutter 6 mm in diameter and set the routing depth to 6 mm. Position the router table rip fence so that the cutter is exactly in the middle of the width of the side wall K. Check the settings on a piece of trim that is the same width as the side walls. Attach a stopper to the longitudinal stop to the left of the cutter to limit the length of the milled tongue to 84 mm (photo N). After making a tongue on one side wall, turn the box over and rout the same tongue on the other side.

Align the bit exactly with the middle of the side wall and rout the tongues on both sides of the drawers without changing the settings.

5. Try all the drawers one by one against the body opening and ensure their smooth movement by carefully grinding the guide rails. Drill in the center of each front wall J mounting hole for handle-button.

Finishing won't take long

1. If you want, you can stain the mahogany wood to make it a little darker. (We used General Finishes Antique Cherry stain.)

2. When the stain is completely dry, spray apply two coats of semi-matte varnish. (We used Deft Clear Wood Finish.) Once dry, lightly sand the first coat with 220-grit sandpaper and thoroughly remove any dust.

3. After drying the varnish, install the button handles. Lightly rub paraffin on the slides in the body to make the drawers move more smoothly. Install the battery into the clock mechanism and insert it into place.

All photos from the article

The topic of this article is wooden wall clocks. We will get acquainted with the history of the creation of all-wood mechanisms in our country and find out who and in what years created the most remarkable designs. In addition, we will get acquainted with the methods of making watches with our own hands - both on the basis of a ready-made mechanism quartz watch, and from scratch, with the implementation of all the mechanics from .

Bronnikov watches

Whom did Herzen wake up?

Here are two facts that seem completely unrelated to each other:

• The writer Alexander Herzen, a comrade of the Decembrists and one of the theorists of the Russian revolution, was convicted back in 1834 “for singing libelous songs” and soon after that, in May 1835, he was exiled to the city of Vyatka;
• On March 31, 2001, a wooden watch by the Russian master Bronnikov was sold at the Geneva antique auction. The transaction price was a record for a watch movement - 34,500 Swedish francs. What is unusual about this fact is that the mechanism of the watch (fully working, despite being a century and a half old) was made entirely of wood.

What do these two events have in common?

The very concept of exile during Herzen’s life meant only that the disgraced nobleman was removed from the capital, while maintaining his civil privileges and status. Soon after moving to Vyatka, Alexander Ivanovich organized an exhibition of industrial products there.

Note: the official status of the enterprise organized by the exiled revolutionary was confirmed by the fact that the co-founder of the fair was the Zemskaya Uprava of the city (by today's standards - the municipality).

Herzen invited the most famous artisans of the city to exhibit their goods self-made, in order to stimulate trade between urban industrialists and neighboring cities and regions of the empire. One of those who responded was sixty-year-old wood turner Ivan Tikhonovich Bronnikov; His son, Semyon Ivanovich, helped him in his work.

The passage of time, very significant compared to human life, has erased many details of events and their sequence. Much of what happened in the 19th century leaves us guessing about its reasons.

Here is a scattering of facts and their retellings from that time related to the history of the wooden clock from Vyatka:

• Before that very exhibition organized by Herzen, father and son Bronnikov specialized in making boxes and caskets. Their business card there were wooden hinges made from birch burl - a special growth on the birch trunk, characterized by exceptional strength, resistance to moisture and shock loads;

It’s curious: a twenty-pound (just under 10 kg) birch burl was then sold for 50 rubles. For comparison, for the same money at an agricultural exhibition you could buy a purebred stud bull or several cows.

• One day Semyon Bronnikov was shown the mechanism of a pocket watch. They say that he was so shocked by its complexity that he immediately wanted to make his own version, but from the material familiar to the master - wood;
• Over the next few months, the master, whose products were in considerable demand, practically abandoned the work that brought him income and that’s it. free time spent on grinding gears. Needless to say, the family was... let's say, not very happy with this development of events;
• His manic passion for watch mechanics gave a logical result: Bronnikov Sr. was committed to a psychiatric hospital by his relatives. Of course, for his own good;
• A year later, after leaving the hospital, he secretly continued to work on the clock and after some time showed the public a working copy. The watch case had a diameter of three centimeters and did not contain metal parts.

• • DIY wall clock? Well, so what, you can buy them in a watch store. Yes, it is possible, but they will already be ready and it will not be easy to add something to them or change them. As for your own watch, imagine that you can put anything on it. Because there are no restrictions.
    • • 1. Preparation. In my case, this is sprat from a crowned tree. Where can I get it from? Very simple! You can find a phone number in the “tree crowning” ad, call it and ask either for the sprat itself or for it to be cut into blanks – circles, as shown in the figure. In my case, the diameter of the circle was 31 cm and the thickness was 2.5 cm. How to determine what diameter you need? Buy a clock mechanism and use it as your guide. The thickness of the workpiece plays a very important role, since it determines whether it is necessary to make a pocket for the mechanism or not. In my case, I did it and it took quite a lot of time. In order not to repeat my mistake, cut the workpiece to a thickness of no more than 1 cm. Also, most likely the wood will still be damp, which means that when it dries, it may deform, so place the workpiece for 1 week or 2 in a warm place dry room. I even got a chip (see photo).
      • TOTAL material costs: 1,640 rubles (date 03/01/2015). These are my expenses, I think that for many they can be much lower because business people half of the above are available at home, or on the other hand, some may have higher costs. Share your information about this in the comments, it will help others navigate.

DIY wall clock. Made of wood

DIY wall clock? Well, so what, you can buy them in a watch store. Yes, it is possible, but they will already be ready and it will not be easy to add something to them or change them. As for your DIY watch, imagine that you can put anything on it. Because there are no restrictions.

A DIY wall clock is original and creative, and most importantly simple. Imagine how they make you happy every time you see them, how you hear the sounds of the clockwork, how time works for you.

By decorating the wall of your room or hallway, a DIY wall clock reminds you of another victory. After all, you made them yourself. Friends, acquaintances and guests who see it will probably take an interest in the watch and say something like: “Mm, interesting, but where did you get it from?” To which everyone will have their own answer. They might also want to make their own wall clock.

So, what do we need for a wall clock?

1 . Preparation. In my case, this is sprat from a crowned tree. Where can I get it from? Very simple! You can find a phone number in the “tree crowning” ad, call it and ask either for the sprat itself or for it to be cut into blanks – circles, as shown in the figure. In my case, the diameter of the circle was 31 cm and the thickness was 2.5 cm. How to determine what diameter you need? Buy a clock mechanism and use it as your guide. The thickness of the workpiece plays a very important role, since it determines whether it is necessary to make a pocket for the mechanism or not. In my case, I did it and it took quite a lot of time. In order not to repeat my mistake, cut the workpiece to a thickness of no more than 1 cm. Also, most likely the wood will still be damp, which means that it may deform when drying, so place the workpiece for 1 week or 2 in a warm, dry room. I even got a chip (see photo).

2. Clockwork. Can be purchased at almost any watch store or ordered online. I bought a German one from the store, it cost 400 rubles, the set included arrows and a battery.

3. A ruler and a pencil are in every home, and anyone can buy them.

4 . Matchbox or burning device.

5 . A regular or stationery knife, cost from 85 rubles.

6. Wood glue, cost from 65 rubles.

7. Transparent varnish on wood, matte or glossy, choose to suit your taste. I took a matte varnish with a capacity of 1 liter, although 250 grams should be enough. The bank cost me 500 rubles.

8 . Screwdriver with wood drill with a diameter of 60-80 mm.

9 . Chisel and hammer.

10 . A varnish brush, costing 85 rubles (it is advisable to take a thin one to make it easier to coat hard-to-reach places and crevices).

eleven . Black marker for coloring numbers. You can take any other color to your taste. The marker cost 95 rubles.

12 . Leaf skins of large and small grains.

TOTAL material costs: 1,640 rubles (date 03/01/2015). These are my expenses, I think that for many they can be significantly lower because economic people have half of the above in their homes, or for others the costs may be higher. Share your information about this in the comments, it will help others navigate.

Step 1. Our workpiece must be sanded and sanded so that the surface is smooth and pleasant to the touch. To do this, we use coarse-grained sandpaper, then, when the surface is smoothed, we sand it with fine-grained sandpaper.

Step 2. Measure the middle and drill a hole through which the base of the clock mechanism will pass.

Step 3. On the back side we make a recess (pocket) for the clock mechanism, if necessary. How to do it? I made a lot of holes with a regular drill, and then knocked them out with a chisel and hammer, then sanded the surface as best I could.

Step 4. We construct arrows - numbers from matches, then paint them over with a marker. You can burn it with a burning device, or apply artistic cutting. In general, there are no restrictions!

Step 5. Measure out where the numbers should be and glue them with wood glue.

Step 6. We check how the clock mechanism fits and works, and then we begin to varnish. We varnish in 2 or 3 layers depending on the varnish (read the instructions on the varnish can).

Step 7. We mount the clock mechanism using self-tapping screws or glue it with glue.

Congratulations, now you can be proud and see your wall clock on the wall of your house, apartment, office or cottage.

Any home interior will help to incredibly transform a brand new wall clock. At the same time, it is not at all necessary to travel all over the city in search of a new masterpiece that will become a wonderful update.

Wall clocks in the interior will look great if you make them yourself! For example, you can decorate an old clock you have. You can also make new ones using various materials, and also easily accessible.

Moreover, they will be in quality great gift, especially to family and friends, who are not punctual.

How to make a wall clock with your own hands

Taking the most ordinary embroidery hoop, you can get quite interesting wall clocks. You will also need decorative buttons for this. The base can be chosen from a fabric that goes well with the texture and color design Your interior.

You can also use any buttons (preferably a collection) that are completely idle. They can be different shapes, color, size.

For a new watch you need to prepare: an old watch or find hands with a mechanism, a hoop, fabric with buttons, braid/ribbon, and if you wish, a thin board/cardboard.

It shouldn’t be a pain to disassemble a clock mechanism/old clock in order to remake it for a new decor. The arrows should be removed along with the nuts that hold them together. It is important to know in this case in what sequence they are connected. The fabric is attached between the hoops, cut off the unnecessary edges, then sew on the buttons. Place the latter in accordance with the numbers on the dial.

Next, the watch mechanism itself is attached. You need to make a small hole right in the center of the dial, and on the other side you need to attach a mechanism so that the mount for the hands is right in the center of the dial of your watch. To secure the mechanism, cut a circle from a cardboard sheet or wood. Its diameter should be the same as the hoop. The mechanism is glued to it. You can also simply hang it on a ribbon that is attached to the hoop. We recommend making a loop so that you can hang the accessory on the wall. All that remains is to screw the arrows and voila! See options for similar items in our photos of DIY wall clocks.

Option No. 2

A clock can also be made from old unwanted magazines/newspapers.

To do this you need to prepare: 24 pages of equal size; pencil, scissors, transparent adhesive tape, long needle, silk thread intended for embroidery/floss, transparent plastic disks (2 pcs.), a cardboard circle with a hole right in the center, a clock mechanism with arrows.

So, first you need to take a pencil that is wrapped in newspaper. The tubes need to be made accordingly, 24 pieces. Their ends should be secured with adhesive tape, then they naturally will not unwind. Approximately the third part needs to be moved back from the end of the tube, then bent in half here.

You need to insert a thread of silk/floss into the needle, then thread it through the same bent tip paper straw. Pull the needle through and tie a knot at the end of the thread. Other tubes are sewn in the same way. They should be placed around your watch.

Place a prepared transparent disk on top of the tubes. This must be done so that the hole remains in the center of the circle, which was created thanks to the tubes. Then the mechanism is applied, taking into account that the place where your hands are fastened coincides with the hole in the disk. Then you need to turn the clock over and put in a second disk of the same type. Cardboard is placed on top of it, and the clock mechanism is attached using a nut. At the end, all you have to do is screw on the hour hands and voila!

We invite you to look through photos of ideas on how to decorate a wall clock, as a result of which you will succeed!

Photo of a handmade wall clock in the interior