Self-leveling wood floors: goals, technology and alternatives. Self-leveling floor on a wooden base: installation tips How to fill a wooden floor with self-leveling floor

At first glance, the situation is quite difficult when a relatively fragile leveling layer needs to be poured onto such an unstable base. However, there are many proven technologies that will allow you to do the installation even with your own hands.

Do you need to repair wooden floors in your apartment and want to use self-leveling flooring? The option is not the simplest, but there are proven technologies that are easy to do even with your own hands.

Attention! !

How difficult is installation?

If a concrete screed is used as a rough foundation, we can complete the work without problems, this foundation is very strong and stable. For a successful result, it is necessary to prime and set the beacons. A more difficult case is when there is a wooden floor in the apartment.

The boards do not form a single plane; if installed poorly, they dangle. With fluctuations in humidity and temperature, the geometric dimensions change, with individual boards of different sizes, especially true with heated floors. When drying, cracks appear; they will have to be sealed, then the leveling solution will not flow into them. During operation, squeaks will appear; without dismantling and repeated work, it will not get rid of it.

Wooden floors are prone to rot. When installing a self-leveling floor, you will need to provide conditions to prevent friction and destruction of wooden elements. You can’t overdry it either - the wood loses its strength and cracks.

We will do it ourselves, we will try to make do with the most accessible tools.

List of tools:

1. Screwdriver;
2. Drill with mixer attachment;
3. Level;
4. Electric planer;
5. Roulette;
6. Scissors.
7. Spatulas wide
8. Narrow spatula
9. Containers for clean water
10. Solution container
11. Needle roller

Preparatory work

We strengthen and level the old wooden floor.

What defects do wooden floors have in an apartment?

• Boards of different thicknesses
• Boards driven by “screw”
• Wooden structural elements that have dried out or are laid with a large gap;
• Presence of creaking
• Rotten floorboards, beams
• Old peeling paint
• Deviation from level

We examine the wooden floor. Is there at least one defect present? Let's start fixing it. Defects occur in most cases, the only exception being new wooden floors laid according to all the rules.

Checking the level of the wooden flooring. If the plane does not correspond to the level, you will have to completely open the floors and level or even change the logs. It would be a good idea to open a small part, even if the level is within normal limits, to check the integrity of the joist, but this applies more to old structures.

Suppose we discovered a slope. Then it is easier to disassemble completely wooden floors and install a new one. We begin installation with the outermost joists located at opposite ends of the room. We install them exactly according to the level, and then stretch the cord between them. We install intermediate logs along the cord. We process those that are above the cord with a plane, and under those that are lower we place pieces of plywood or other suitable material. Is there high humidity in the apartment? It is necessary to treat the material with antiseptic agents.

When the logs are laid in one plane and secured, we begin to check the thickness of the boards. It happens that the gaps between the floorboards are 5 mm or more, then it is necessary to correct the situation, despite the fact that we pour a leveling mixture on top. It’s the same here, from thick floorboards we remove the required thickness with an electric planer, and for thin ones we use pads.

A more complex defect is in the form of boards that are twisted with a “screw”. Wedges and a plane won't help. The floorboard “screws” onto the beams with only one edge; if you cut off the protruding edge, the second edge dangles in the air, and this is not reliable. There are two options here - change the entire floorboard or try to straighten it by pulling it. It is not possible to tighten with ordinary self-tapping screws; the slots are torn off or the bit is damaged, and the force is not enough.

In this case, a long screw (at least 100mm) with a hex head can help. To tighten with such a screw, we will make a hole in the board, in the place where it protrudes upward, do not drill closer than 2 centimeters from the edge. The hole needs to be slightly larger than the thickness of the screw. We tighten the screw until the edge of the floorboard is level with the plane of the adjacent boards. Then we fix the attracted place with at least four wood screws, and remove the large screw.

Another common defect is large gaps. If we were preparing the floor for laying laminate, the gaps would not be so critical; a couple of layers of plywood would save the situation. But we need to pour a liquid self-leveling solution on the wooden floor in the apartment, and it will definitely leak into the cracks. You can remove large gaps with store-bought wood putties, but if you go to the store, choose acrylic ones for seams and filling cracks, there are also finishing ones, but they won’t suit us. You can make this putty yourself by mixing PVA glue with fine sawdust.

If the wooden floor in the apartment is painted and it begins to peel off, you will have to rip it off. During operation, it, together with the self-leveling floor layer, may come off. I won’t talk about rotten floorboards and creaking. We change the necessary elements and strengthen them.

Preparing for pouring

We received a relatively smooth and strong surface. We treat with an antiseptic for internal work. We cover it with primer in two or more layers, since wood is highly absorbent. Before priming, we clean everything from dust and sawdust. Deep penetration primer.

A deformation damper will be required between the screed and the wall. O is needed to protect against temperature deformations, especially if a heated floor is planned. It won't break the walls, but it will crack the surface. As such a layer, either a special self-adhesive tape or strips cut from isolon are used. We attach them vertically along the entire perimeter of the room.

Fill

You may have already chosen, for example, gypsum, polyurethane or cement. But I would recommend using the special composition Vetonit 4310 from Weber. It is intended specifically for complex substrates, including those that are deformable, like a wooden floor, although its base is cement. It can be used as an independent base layer, thickness up to 60mm is allowed, and also as an intermediate layer between wood and another type of self-leveling mortar.

It's time to pour the self-leveling floor onto the wooden floor; you need to do this process together. One person mixes the mixture, and the other pours it out, leveling it with a wide spatula. For large areas, you must first make beacons from screwed-in screws or spider beacons. After leveling, you need to remove air from the layer; a needle roller is used for this purpose. You need to have time to do everything in no longer than 20 minutes, then it will start to set.

The finishing coating is laid in 1-3 weeks. To speed up drying, drafts should not be created in the apartment; this will lead to uneven drying and the appearance of shrinkage cracks. To check final drying, you need a vapor-proof film measuring one meter by meter. Place the film on the screed; the formation of condensation under the film means that the drying process has not completed.

Heated if needed

Nowadays, heated floors have become popular in private houses and apartments. Heating systems are divided into water and electric. In the case of wood, it is better to choose an electric one; you can also do a water one, but you need to be sure that the ceilings will withstand the high load. For the water version, you usually need a screed with a thickness of at least 50mm, and this is already a lot of weight. The pipe has a height of 16mm, a 30mm solution is poured above the pipe for uniform heat distribution.

In this case, a prefabricated lightweight system with aluminum plates or a multilayer heated floor system made from gypsum board sheets (plasterboard) would be more suitable; you can read more about this technology here. But this is a slightly different topic.

This means it’s still better to use the electric option. The technology is not much different from laying it on a concrete screed. You already know how to make a base layer on a wooden floor; then roll foil insulation, which has reflective properties, is laid on it. After this, we install the reinforcing mesh, and then roll out the heating elements on top and fill them with a self-leveling leveler. DSP is also suitable, it is cheaper.

Nobody canceled the intervals for gaining strength; when installing a heated floor, we wait 3 weeks. The heating should be turned on no earlier than a week after installation. Tile is suitable as a finishing coating. Laminate flooring can be laid with a backing.

Video

Advantages of self-leveling coating

Self-leveling flooring is a technologically advanced way to renovate old apartments. Allows you to quickly obtain a flat surface. Eco-friendly, wear-resistant. Easy to make with your own hands. Plastic, resistant to cracks on complex wooden bases.

Currently, in repair work, factory-prepared mixtures are increasingly used, which make it possible to quickly and efficiently level floor coverings of any type. Self-leveling flooring on a wooden base is one of the flooring methods that is especially popular.

The main advantages are durability, wear resistance, strength and ease of installation. In addition, materials are available in a wide range, there are even options with 3D images.

What to look for when choosing a material

First of all, you need to carefully examine the packaging. All manufacturers indicate exactly what this or that composition is suitable for. To make a self-leveling floor in a wooden house, you need to choose materials with the appropriate marks; universal compositions are also suitable. But if the packaging indicates that the solution is suitable for concrete or anhydrite screeds, then it cannot be used for wood.

When choosing a composition, you should pay attention to the purpose - only universal or special mixtures are suitable for a wooden base

It is important to remember that self-leveling wood floors are poured in a layer of 3 to 7 centimeters, so it is not advisable to buy expensive gypsum mixtures that are designed for a layer of about 0.2–2.5 cm. It is recommended to use cement or gypsum-cement mortars. To decide on the type, you need to read the composition. The first substance is the one that is contained the most.

In addition to the material, it is necessary to purchase polyethylene film, which will serve as waterproofing. In rare cases, coating waterproofing can be used instead of polyethylene. You will also need damper tape.

Foundation requirements

It should be noted that self-leveling floors cannot be applied to every surface. The base must meet the following requirements:

1. Floors should not creak.
2. The boards are securely fastened and do not sag while walking.
3. The flooring has a slight sag.
4. There are no serious defects on the surface: large cracks, holes, and so on.
5. Each board must be intact, without traces of fungus and mold.

It is not necessary that the base be smooth, the main thing is good quality of the board, absence of squeaks and solidity

If any of the listed defects are found, part of the floor or the entire surface will have to be replaced.

Preparatory work

Self-leveling floors can be laid on a wooden floor only if the base is properly prepared. The duration of use of the coating, its appearance and performance indicators depend on this stage.

Immediately before starting work, you need to check the air temperature and humidity level. The required parameters are indicated by the manufacturer on the packaging. Compliance with these requirements is the key to successful completion of work.

Preparation of bulk solution

You need to take a clean, dry container and pour water into it at a temperature of +5 to +25 °C. Then add the mixture and mix with a construction mixer or drill with an appropriate attachment for 7 minutes. After this, you need to let the solution sit for about 15 minutes and repeat the procedure. It is better not to prepare the composition in large portions, since it begins to set on average after half an hour.

Attention! It is necessary to strictly follow the proportions specified by the manufacturer. If you add too little water, the mixture will dry out too quickly, possibly even while pouring. Otherwise, the finished coating will be less durable.

Preparation of bulk mixtures is carried out exclusively using a construction mixer or mixing attachment

Pouring technology

The method of pouring floors in a private house or apartment using leveling compounds is practically no different from working with a cement-sand mixture, only self-leveling floors dry out faster.

You need to start from a place that is located lowest in level. The material is poured from the container into the space between the beacons and leveled with a rule, passing it along the beacons. After this, you need to roll the area with a needle roller. Process all stripes in this manner.

When the material begins to set, it is necessary to remove the beacons from it. The resulting grooves should be filled with the same solution and leveled taking into account the finished surface, which will serve as a level. It is recommended to begin further finishing no earlier than a week later.

To ensure that the repair results are not disappointing, you must follow the recommendations:

To install self-leveling floors on wooden bases, you must follow the above rules and recommendations given by manufacturers on the packaging. In addition, it is important to remember that the material dries quite quickly, so it is better to work with a partner.

The main advantages of self-leveling floors include wear resistance, strength and safety. Polyurethane coatings not only have good performance characteristics. The mixtures produced today have a large number of different colors. Floors with a three-dimensional effect look especially beautiful. The only thing that confuses apartment and house owners is preparing the foundation. After all, removing old wooden floors and preparing a smooth screed is a rather labor-intensive process. Not everyone knows that there is no need to tear down wooden boards. You just need to choose the right self-leveling floor for a wooden floor.

When choosing a mixture, you should pay attention to the manufacturer's recommendations. If a wooden covering is mentioned among the recommended bases, this composition can be safely used for filling. Many manufacturers produce self-leveling mixtures for wooden floors, so choosing a suitable leveler is not difficult.

Requirements for a wooden base

It is worth noting that not every wooden floor is suitable as a base for a self-leveling mixture. A wooden floor must meet the following requirements:

• the coating does not creak;
• all boards must be securely fastened and should not bend when walking;
• the wooden floor does not have significant level differences;
• there are no gross defects on the surface of the boards;
• The boards are in good condition, there is no damage caused by fungus or rotten areas.

If the floor meets these requirements, you can proceed to the next stage - preparing the base.

Important: If any of the listed defects exist, you will need to inspect the wooden covering, check the condition of the old joists, and, if necessary, install additional ones. It may be necessary to replace some boards that have become unusable.

Preparing the base

Self-leveling flooring is poured onto a wooden base only after careful preparation. The service life of the self-leveling coating largely depends on how well the surface of the boards is leveled.

1. First of all, the surface of the boards is sanded. The top layer with varnish, paint and dirt is removed. After sanding, the boards are treated with emery to give a rough structure.
2. Next, remove all the baseboards around the perimeter of the room, and cover the resulting cracks with bars. All seams at the junctions of the boards are passed with a scraper, all cracks and chips are cleaned. Dust and small debris are removed using a vacuum cleaner. Before pouring the self-leveling floor onto the boards, they should also be degreased. To do this, you can use a special cleaning powder.
3. The next stage of preparing the base is installing beacons and laying tape around the perimeter of the room. The tape will serve as a damper pad, and the beacons will help to pour the self-leveling floor onto the wooden floor without any drops. They are set using a water level, and the installation height depends on the layer of self-leveling coating. As a rule, the thickness of the mixture layer ranges from 1 mm to 5 mm.
4. Before pouring, the humidity level in the room and the air temperature must be checked. Compliance with the requirements specified by the manufacturer on the packaging is one of the important conditions for successful completion of the work.

Floor pouring technology

Self-leveling floors for wooden floors are poured in much the same way as mixtures for concrete bases.

1. First you need to properly prepare the mixture. The amount of water required for mixing the composition is indicated on the packaging.

Important! The proportions recommended by the manufacturer should be strictly observed. If there is an excess amount of liquid, self-leveling mixtures for wooden floors will take much longer to harden, and their resistance to external influences will be less than expected.

If there is not enough water, the mixture will harden in less time, and you may not have time to distribute it.

1. Be sure to pay attention to the drying time of the composition. If you do not have experience in pouring self-leveling floors, it is better to mix the solution in small portions so that you can have time to level it over the floor surface. To speed up the process of distributing the mixture, you can invite an assistant and divide the work between you.
2. It is recommended to start pouring from the lowest level. Level the self-leveling floor on the wood using a soft spatula or a roller with needles. When choosing a roller, it is important to consider the thickness of the future coating. The length of the needles should be 2 mm longer. If the needles are short, the roller will plunge deeper into the solution than necessary and create unnecessary fluid movement. Long spikes will not allow the roller to quickly distribute the mixture. To move over a surface already filled with the compound, use special pads for shoes with spikes.
3. After the self-leveling leveler is completed, the beacons are removed and the surface is left until it hardens completely. Manufacturers indicate the minimum time required for the mixture to harden. If you plan to carry out further work on the filled surface, professionals recommend waiting a week.

Self-leveling wood floor leveler can be poured onto both wood planks and plywood. Polymer self-leveling floors do not contain moisture that can cause deformation of the base, but pouring cement mortars must be approached with special attention. Depending on the moisture resistance of the plywood sheets, additional waterproofing may be required. In general, self-leveling flooring is poured onto plywood in the same way as onto wood. Some experts recommend using reinforcing mesh when applying self-leveling mortar.

You can get more detailed answers to the questions: is it possible to lay a self-leveling floor on a wooden floor and how to do it correctly after watching the next video.

Quite often, during renovations recently, self-leveling floor systems are used, which are characterized by durability, wear resistance and strength. Among their positive qualities are safety and environmental friendliness. Since the creation of such coatings, significant technical changes have occurred. For example, they are presented in a wide range of colors, which is especially true. With their help, you can create real masterpieces of design.

Can wood be used as a base?

Quite often, craftsmen ask the question of whether it is possible to install a self-leveling floor on a wooden floor. The answer is yes, but before laying such a coating, it is necessary to analyze the rough base and determine whether it requires preparation. It is necessary to carry out installation work on wood only if it is well preserved, and it is recommended to use a thin mixture for arranging the finishing surface, which will not be able to increase the height significantly.

Preparatory work

The self-leveling can be installed not only on the type of rough foundation described above, but also on concrete. Before pouring, any surface must be prepared; the first step is to remove the baseboards and remove the fasteners from the walls. Then the master scrapes the surface; for this you should use the appropriate equipment. If the room has a small area, then it will be possible to cope with the help of a manual cycle. The next step is to hide the cracks using an encryption machine. Such errors during operation in any case appear on the wooden surface. The resulting irregularities and crevices are treated with putty, which after application is left to dry completely. Then the surface should be sanded with coarse sandpaper, which will improve the quality of adhesion.

The self-leveling floor on a wooden floor will last a long time if the base is cleaned of dust after sanding. It is most effective to use for this. Before priming, the base is degreased. The primer is necessary to increase the adhesion strength of the material to the wood. The composition is applied in two layers; before carrying out work, sifted quartz sand can be added to it. This will ensure the most reliable adhesion between the polymer coating and the base.

Preparing tools

If you are wondering whether self-leveling floors can be applied to a wooden floor, then the answer will be clear. Such work is carried out quite often today. It is important to properly prepare the surface and ensure that you have the appropriate tools. To dismantle the skirting boards you will need wooden wedges, a nail puller and a chisel, but to process wood you need to prepare a sanding machine and a grinding device. You can finally prepare the surface using coarse sandpaper; an industrial vacuum cleaner will allow you to clean the base. To apply the primer to the surface, you will need a brush or roller. Quite often these tools are used in tandem, since not all hard-to-reach places can be treated with a roller. A short-haired roller and a flat brush will allow you to distribute most effectively. The craftsman will need a spatula and a squeegee. You can mix the solution for installing a self-leveling floor using a construction mixer or a drill. It is best to pour a self-leveling floor on a wooden base while wearing special clothing, wearing safety glasses, a respirator and gloves. To move on the surface you will need special soles with spikes. This will allow the master to move around the freshly laid layer.

Work technology

Laying a polymer floor on a wooden floor is no different from the procedure that involves using concrete as a base. Only the preparatory stage differs, which was discussed in more detail above. Before pouring the self-leveling floor, you should prepare the solution using the instructions. The dry mixture should be mixed with water until a homogeneous mass is formed. The resulting solution is laid out on the base, and it is necessary to advance from the far corner of the room.

The self-leveling floor is poured onto a wooden floor and then leveled using a spatula until the required layer thickness is achieved. If we are talking about a wooden covering, then the thickness should be five millimeters or more. The most optimal and convenient tool for leveling and combating bubbles is a needle roller. The intervals between pouring batches should not be more than 10 minutes, otherwise the joints will be clearly visible. But even in this case, the connection of the mortar strips must be carefully rolled with a roller. As soon as the pouring is completed, you should cover the curing surface with film; this must be done 15 minutes after completion of the work. This will prevent dust from settling. After applying the base layer and its hardening, you can begin to apply the finishing coating, which can be a varnish or a polymer.

Cost of work from specialists

The self-leveling floor on a wooden floor will hold quite firmly if you follow the instructions provided. This process can be called quite simple, and you can do it yourself. But if financial capabilities allow, it is recommended to hire a team of specialists who guarantee high quality workmanship, carry out installation in accordance with technology, and also provide a guarantee for the work done. As a rule, specialists use expensive construction tools. All this adds up to the cost of preparatory, priming work and manipulations for pouring the mixture. For one square meter of preparing a wooden base you will have to pay 400 rubles, while applying a primer costs 200 rubles. per one square meter. Specialists fill the surface with quick-drying liquid compounds for 400 rubles. per one square meter.

If you want to make renovations in a residential area, it is recommended to choose mixtures based on polymer resins. If there are areas of high humidity, then epoxy filler should be used in them, while polyurethane flooring is suitable for the rest of the house. If you are wondering whether it is possible to pour a self-leveling floor, a wooden floor can be an excellent base. If there is a plank covering, it should be repaired and the peeling floorboards replaced. The fasteners are tightened, the cracks are filled with sealant or the latter is mixed with an equal volume of sawdust. Waterproofing should be laid on the wooden base. Do not neglect the need to apply a primer, two layers of which will facilitate the main work and increase the strength of the coating.

Secrets of using finishing mixtures

A self-leveling floor on a wooden floor will look very good if the rough base does not have rough relief flaws. It is advisable to exclude them, since the thickness of the laid layer does not exceed 5 millimeters. Even though the bumps and depressions can be smoothed out by a leveling compound, there is a strong argument for eliminating the defects. Self-leveling floors will harden unevenly, and the strength indicator will vary.

It is also important to choose the right dry composition, the ingredients of which will determine the purpose of the future floor. For example, if the mixture contains cement as a binder, then this composition is suitable for pouring floors in bathrooms, kitchens, showers and bathrooms. If we are talking about mixtures with gypsum in the composition, then such a floor is best used for rooms with dry and low humidity levels, where the self-leveling floor will demonstrate all its positive qualities. A wooden surface can also be used for a base in which a heating system will be present. In this case, you should choose a leveling mass that has increased elasticity. It will expand and contract during operation without cracking.

Conclusion

Sometimes the self-leveling floor is separated from the wooden surface with oiled paper, which is covered with an overlap. In this case, the layer should be poured one or two centimeters thick. The boundary between the screed and the self-leveling floor should be formed by treating the surface with waterproofing impregnation.

The main advantages of self-leveling floors lie in their wear resistance, durability and coating strength. In addition, they have such qualities as: environmental friendliness and safety.

Since their creation, serious changes have also occurred; today polyurethane coatings have a wide variety of color options, especially for such types as 3d self-leveling floors. With their help, it is possible to create real design masterpieces with a stunning three-dimensional effect.

When laying a self-leveling mixture, one of the labor-intensive processes is preparing the base. Many homeowners are put off by the work of removing old wood flooring. However, not all of them know that, along with concrete, you can also use a wooden base. Installation of self-leveling coating on wood should be carried out if the wood is of good quality. You should choose a thin mixture so as not to increase the height.

Preparatory work

Before pouring, you should carefully prepare the base. This procedure must be done with any type of base, and especially if the surface will be installed on an existing wooden floor.

The first step is to remove all the baseboards from the floor, and also remove their fastenings from the walls. After this, the surface is scraped. To do this you should use . However, if the room is small, then a manual cycle can handle it.

The next stage is opening cracks with a grinding machine, which, one way or another, form on the wooden surface. Then all irregularities and cracks are covered with putty. After it dries, the surface is sanded with coarse sandpaper. This procedure is necessary to ensure better adhesion.

Then, the coating, cleaned of dust using an industrial vacuum cleaner, should be degreased before priming. Primer of the base is necessary to increase the adhesion strength of the wood to the polyurethane material.

The base should be primed in two layers. You can add sifted quartz sand to the composition, thus ensuring the most reliable adhesion between the base and the polymer coating.

Necessary tool to get the job done

To perform foundation preparation work you will need:

• A nail puller, wooden wedges and a chisel for removing baseboards.
• Cycling machine or manual scraping machine.
• Grinder machine.
• Coarse sandpaper.
• Industrial vacuum cleaner.
• Roller or brush for applying primer.
• A flat brush or roller with short naps to distribute the polymer coating.
• Squeegee and spatula.
• A construction mixer or drill for mixing self-leveling floor mortar.

This should also include work clothing, safety glasses, gloves and respirators. Soles with spikes are also required to allow walking on the freshly applied layer.

Self-leveling floor technology

The technology for pouring a polymer floor onto an ordinary wooden floor is no different from a similar procedure where concrete serves as the base. The difference lies only in the preparatory stage, which we discussed in detail above.

Before pouring a self-leveling floor onto a wooden surface, it is necessary to prepare the solution in strict accordance with the manufacturer's instructions.

In a nutshell, the dry mixture is mixed with water using a construction mixer until a homogeneous mass is formed. Then, the resulting solution is laid out on a wooden base, starting from the far corner of the room.

The mass must be leveled using a spatula until the required thickness is achieved. In the case of a wooden floor, this is a maximum of 5 mm. The best tool for leveling and eliminating air bubbles is a needle roller.

The intervals between pouring batches of mortar should not exceed 10 minutes, and the joints should be carefully rolled with a roller.

After pouring is completed, after 15 minutes, it is necessary to cover the hardening surface with a film, preventing dust from settling. After applying the base layer of self-leveling floor and its hardening, the finishing coating is applied. It can be a polymer or varnish.

Installation cost

In general, the procedure is quite simple, and you can do it yourself, but if financial capabilities allow, you should still hire a team of specialists who practically know how to make self-leveling floors.

Hiring professionals will provide:

• High quality workmanship
• Guarantee for all work done
• Installation according to technology
• Use of expensive but necessary construction tools.

The cost of installing a self-leveling floor consists of several stages, these are:

• Preparatory work (average price 400 rubles per 1 sq.m);
• Base primer (average price 200 rubles per 1 sq.m);
• Filling the surface (average price 400 rubles per 1 sq.m.).

The cost of installing decorative floors is calculated individually. It is imperative to use the services of specialists if you plan to install a self-leveling floor in 3D format.

If you do the work yourself, do not neglect the advice of professionals. Their experience will help you avoid costly alterations later.

For residential premises, you should choose mixtures of self-leveling floors based on polymer resins. At the same time, in places of high humidity, an epoxy type of flooring is used, while polyurethane flooring is used in other parts of the house.

It is better to pour it on a concrete base, but installation on a plank wooden surface is still allowed.

At the same time, its preparation is no less labor-intensive, and the service life and appearance of the floor depend on the quality of its work. It is imperative to prime the base in two layers - this will facilitate the main work of pouring and increase the strength of the coating.

To create a high-quality self-leveling coating on a wooden base, you should produce your own required complex in each specific case. Much is directly dependent on the conditions of further operation, the area and type of room, as well as the type of foundation. If you doubt your ability to carry out high-quality installation, contact specialists who will not only carry out the work, but also help with choosing the optimal materials.