There are cobwebs on currants, what to do. Where does the cobweb on currants come from: diseases and pests. The best known bioacaricides are

As it says folk wisdom, the disease is easy to prevent, but difficult to cure. This statement also applies to harmful insects, whose invasions of bushes lead to very disastrous consequences.

In well-kept gardens, where the rules of agricultural technology are followed, there are not too many pests created for them to breed. favorable conditions. These techniques are quite simple and consist in compassionate care behind the berry bushes. First of all, in early spring cut out all the affected shoots at the soil level and burn them along with the fallen leaves that remain from the fall.

Fertilizing and loosening the soil between the rows and around the plant itself also help maintain the health of the garden. Autumn digging of the soil causes significant damage to the number of wintering pupae, spores, etc. In addition, mulching the soil with a thick layer in early spring leads to the death of the larvae of stem and leaf currant gall midges.

When you first detect uninvited guests, you should not immediately use chemical industry protective equipment. Given the small number of pests, it is quite possible to collect them by hand or carefully place them on a sheet spread under a bush, or even into an open, inverted umbrella. For spraying, decoctions and infusions of plants with specific smell and insecticidal properties (use no more than once a week), and it is better to resort to chemicals in urgent need.

Fighting aphids on currants

These tiny, sucking insects are very difficult to get rid of. They multiply at an incredible speed, damaging the budding leaves and the tops of the shoots. Ants help aphids spread throughout the garden; they take care of them and hide them in their nests for the winter, and again spread them along the stems in the spring. The first measures to destroy it must be carried out on the green cone of the buds. If you have aphids on your currants, we will now tell you how to fight them.

Natural ways to fight:

• Regularly washing them off the bushes with a strong stream of water or wetting the leaves with a soap solution (250 g) will help to significantly reduce the aphid population. laundry soap diluted in a bucket of warm water);
• Spraying with infusions of garlic, onion peels (a bucket is filled halfway with peels, filled with water to the top and left for 5 days), tobacco, mustard (100 g per bucket), pine needles, tops of tomatoes or potatoes (4 kg of green stems or needles) also has a depressing effect leave for 3.5 hours in a bucket of water). A decoction of wormwood has the same effect. hot pepper(half a bucket of greens is filled with water to the top, left for about a day, then boiled for half an hour and diluted 1:1 with clean water before use);
• homeopathic medicines will help trouble Healthy garden, Ecoberin, and bacterial preparations Bitoxibacillin, Batsikol.

Scientific ways of fighting:

• treating affected bushes with “chemistry”, for example, Aktellik, Fufanon, Karate, Aktara. Just remember that you need to spray it a month before picking the berries.

Bud mite on currants

The first sign that you have a bud mite in your garden- these are abnormally swollen kidneys. In the spring they are not able to open and gradually die off, which affects the amount of harvest. One kidney can contain up to a thousand individuals. Having emerged from it in the spring, they settle in the surrounding area with the help of insects, birds or the wind.

Another sign of uninvited guests is a changed shape and color of the apical leaves, which also lighten and become deformed and leathery. Over the summer, ticks produce 3-4 generations. In addition, they are carriers of such a viral disease as terry. Therefore, throughout the growing season, you need to carefully monitor the appearance of enlarged buds and pluck them out when they appear. It is best to fight the mite during the period from the swelling of the buds to the end of flowering.

Ways to fight:

• among folk remedies, spraying with infusions of tobacco, garlic (200 grams of crushed heads are placed in a bucket of water, immediately stirred, filtered and used), dandelion (400 grams of greens or 300 grams of rhizomes are poured into a bucket of water, infused for 3 hours, filtered), walnut(3 kg of dry leaves per bucket of water, infused for about a day);
• for chemical protection use a suspension of colloidal sulfur (100 g per ten liters of water) or Karbofos(75 g per bucket). Apply at least twice.

Spider mites on currants

Spider mites are the scourge of blackcurrants and cause the greatest damage in hot, rainless weather. The presence of a sucking pest begins to appear already before flowering: light dots are visible on the top of the leaf blade. The mite on currants lives on the underside of mature leaves, covering them with small cobwebs, as a result of which they turn yellow and fall off by mid-July.

To get rid of the pest, in the fall they destroy weeds, dig up the soil, in the spring they carefully collect the remains of dry leaves and mulch the bush until the end of flowering. Mass development of insects occurs in the last month of summer. Affected plants do not overwinter well and also lose high yields.

Ways to fight:

• For preventive purposes, before flowering, bushes are treated with infusion of tobacco, onion peels, and a decoction of wormwood (recipes are given above). Spray several times at weekly intervals until the need disappears;
• another wonderful environmental product - a biological product Fitoverm. It is used in a proportion of 2 ml per liter jar of water;
• After harvesting the berries, currants can be sprayed Karbofos(60 g per bucket of water). To treat a plant on unopened buds, or after flowering, prepare a solution Karbofos different concentration (30 g per bucket).

Many types of insect pests live on currants. Spider mites on currants, like bud mites, are one of the most harmful inhabitants. They are not insects, but belong to arachnids. This must be taken into account when using modern drugs to destroy pests.

Damage caused by kidney mites

It is easy to detect the presence of this pest on currants. The bud mite on currants is noticeable by the presence of modified, abnormally swollen buds. Each kidney contains up to 8 thousand individuals.

At the beginning of the blackcurrant flowering phase, mites crawl out of infected buds and settle on young buds on growing branches. Ticks reproduce from June to October in vegetative buds. They, like acarids of the gall variety, overwinter inside the buds.

The harm from the kidney mite is obvious:

1. Kidneys infected with mites cannot develop normally. Neither leaves nor shoots grow from them.
2. The leaves grow weakly, their tops lighten and become leathery.
3. Young branches grow crooked and weak.
4. Few flower clusters grow on the infected bush; they bloom weakly.
5. The berries almost never set: they fall off before they are ripe.

In August, the mite-infested buds again become clearly visible, unnaturally rounded and double in size.

In addition to the harm that the mite causes to black currants by destroying the buds, it is also a carrier of viral diseases:

• mosaics of leaves;
• leaf curl.

Measures to combat viral diseases have not been developed; if a disease appears, the infected bush has to be uprooted.

In addition, currant bushes infected with bud mites are weakened and susceptible to attacks by other pests:

• barbel;
• glassware;
• goldfish

Since mites spend almost all their time inside the kidneys, shaking or spraying will not work to get rid of them.

Important! Treatment of infected bushes should be carried out only during the migration of mites to new buds during flowering of the berry tree.

Damage caused by spider mites

The common spider mite belongs to the sucking pests. It also has a very small size. It is easy to notice the appearance of spider mites on currants by the appearance of a loose web entwining the leaves. The colony of mites is concentrated on the back of the leaf. Ticks multiply especially strongly during dry and hot weather.

The harm it does is considerable:

• damages leaves already at the beginning of currant flowering;
• delays berry ripening;
• reduces the winter hardiness of old plants.

Important! Small yellow spots appear on the leaves where they are punctured by mites. Gradually the leaf acquires a marble color and turns yellow.

The sap flow in the leaves is disrupted, they stop growing, gradually dry out and fall off prematurely.
In the event of a massive spread of mites, the leaves are entangled in a web in which nests of pests develop.
Ticks wait out the winter in weed thickets and on leaf litter under infested bushes.

The microscopic size of mites allows them to travel between plants with the wind through the air, as well as on the legs of birds and insects.

Fighting spider mites on currants is not easy. The tick lives for 2–3 weeks, producing more and more numerous generations. Therefore, the berry garden is processed 2–4 times per season.

Methods for exterminating pests

How to get rid of spider mites? During bud break, currants must be treated with 80% colloidal sulfur (100 g per 10 l) or bitoxybacillin (80 g).

How to deal with a pest safe methods, if spider mites have already appeared on currants? Folk remedies for ticks are widely used:

• infusion of shag, dandelion, garlic, walnut, wormwood, black henbane (200 g per 10 l);
• a solution of 200 g mustard powder in a bucket of water;
• infusion of 1 kg of horseradish leaves.

If simple remedies do not help and the mites have multiplied greatly, you have to use acaricides: Apollo, Fufanon, Nissoran.

It is worth trying to use biological insecticides: Fitoverm, Kleschevit, Agrovertin, Bitoxibacillin. The mites die on the second day and for 3 weeks the currants are protected from these pests. The treatment must be repeated after a week.

How to deal with a pest if a mite appears on currants? Usually two methods are used:

• mechanical;
• chemical.

How to get rid of bud mite on currants mechanically? To do this, in the spring, the swollen buds are picked off by hand. If there are a lot of such buds, then cut off the branches. Sometimes young bushes are pruned “to the stump”, cutting off all branches at a height of 5 cm. After a year, flowering and fruiting are restored. Buds and branches must be burned.

Many gardeners use the time-tested procedure of pouring boiling water over the bare branches of currants. Boiling water destroys not only mites, but also fungal spores.

Chemical control methods are used during budding and after flowering:

1. Treat the berry plant with a solution of colloidal sulfur (50 g per 10 l).
2. Spray with Karbofos (75 g per 10 l).
3. Pour lime-sulfur broth over the bushes and the ground around them at temperatures above +20 degrees.
4. Wash the branches with garlic infusion (200 g per 10 l).
5. Use acaricide preparations such as Apollo, Vertimek, Oberon, Nissoran, Envidor, Sunmite 2-3 times with a break a week.
6. After harvesting the berries, more powerful preparations are used: Rogor-S, Bi-58, Phosfamide.
7. Young non-bearing seedlings are treated with preparations containing dimethoate: Dimetrin, Accent, Danadim, Pilarmax.

It is very important to observe the dose of the product used and apply the specified number of times. When re-processing, the concentration of the active substance is reduced by 2 times.

Preventing ticks

To prevent the spread of spider mites on currants, it is necessary to remove all flying leaves and dig up upper layer land under the bushes. This will eliminate overwintering pests.

Important! Spider mites cannot tolerate high humidity. Sprinkling the bushes during dry and hot weather will prevent the spread of spider mites and reduce their number by half if the bushes are already infected.

It is important to pull out weeds near currants, as they are a temporary refuge for mites and aphids.
Before planting and rooting, cuttings of red and black currants must be disinfected in tea broth.

To do this, brew 10 g of tea leaves in 5 liters of boiling water, leave for 1 day and wash the cuttings in it. They should sit in the tea leaves for about 3 hours.

To prevent the bud mite, you should try to plant varieties in the garden that are resistant to damage by this pest: Yadrenaya, Otradnaya, Pamyati Gubenko and others.
Before planting, seedlings are disinfected with the following composition: 10 g of Agrovertin, 40 g of colloidal sulfur and 10 liters of water.

Important! The kidney mite does not tolerate sulfur preparations. Treatment with them helps prevent the spread of ticks in the garden.

Conclusion

Struggle by various means with spider mites on currants does not end after 1-2 treatments. Just like the mature currant bud mite, the spider mite is also extremely prolific, tenacious and protects its habitat.

Cobwebs and curled leaves make it difficult for toxic liquids to penetrate into places where mites accumulate, which must be used to treat an infected currant bush. And the kidney mite spends most of its life inside the kidney and is also poorly accessible. That's why the best remedy prevention against these pests.

The article talks about currant pests and ways to combat them with chemical and folk remedies.

Currant bud mite

Description of the pest. A microscopic pest of currants that is difficult to see with the naked eye. It is clearly visible in the spring when the tick moves, but in infected kidneys it can only be seen under a microscope.

Mites look like very small white worms; they live, overwinter and feed in currant buds. In spring, at an air temperature of +5-6°C, females lay eggs inside the buds. After 7-14 days, larvae emerge from them and continue to feed inside the kidney. During the season, 3-4 generations of pests hatch, which in the spring go in search of a new habitat. One kidney can contain 3-5 thousand larvae and adults.

In the spring, during the period of leaf blossoming and bud protrusion, mites come out and infect neighboring healthy buds. At this time they can be seen. The migration period of ticks lasts 25-30 days, but they especially en masse look for a new food source during the flowering of black currants. Ticks can be carried to neighboring bushes by the wind, garden tools, on the gardener's clothes.

Nature of damage. It affects black currants, but it may also appear on red currants if the pest multiplies strongly.

The affected buds swell and become round, resembling a small head of Brussels sprouts in appearance. The more pests there are inside the bud, the more round it becomes. The affected buds become pale yellow in color and do not bloom in the spring, but dry out or rot. With severe infection of currants, diseased buds are noticeable by the end of summer. Yields of bushes damaged by mites are noticeably reduced.

Control measures. The difficulty in controlling the bud mite lies in the fact that the pest is well protected by the bud scales from the action of pesticides. During the flowering period of currants, when strays come out, the use of chemicals is extremely undesirable.

When swollen buds appear on the bushes, they are collected by hand in the fall or spring before flowering begins. In case of severe damage, the entire branch is cut out. If the entire bush is affected by the mite, then it is completely cut out; the young shoots that have grown over the summer will be free from the pest.

How to treat currants against bud mites.

1. During the period of bud protrusion, the bushes are sprayed with a solution of colloidal sulfur or dispersed sulfur. Spraying is done once in the spring. Currants are processed on warm days, since sulfur preparations are effective only at temperatures above 20 °C.
2. Spraying with Thiovit Jet. It contains sulfur and has moderate activity against ticks. The treatment is carried out when the leaves bloom.
3. Cover the infected bushes with film, tying it at the base, and set fire to the sulfur bomb inside. Leave the film for 24-36 hours.
4. Spraying bushes with Apollo. Acoricide is used during the period when ticks emerge from the kidneys. It destroys eggs and larvae and sterilizes adults, but does not kill them. The treatment is carried out once during the period of bud break.
5. Neoron treatment. Contact action acoricide, used during the period when ticks emerge from the kidneys. Active against adults and larvae.

Preparations against gnawing and sucking pests have no effect on the kidney mite at all.

Folk remedies.

1. During the period when the buds appear, the bushes are sprayed with garlic infusion. 150 g of crushed garlic is poured into 10 liters of water and the currants are processed. Treatment is carried out three times every 5-6 days.
2. In early spring, before the buds swell, currants are doused with boiling water. This will not harm dormant buds, but mites sensitive to high temperatures die.
3. Decoction of onion peels. 200 g of husks are poured into 3 liters of water and boiled for 15 minutes. Strain, bring the volume to 10 liters, spray the currants during the leaf opening period and after flowering.

Prevention.

1. Planting varieties resistant to bud mite: Riddle, Pamyat Michurina, Sevchanka, Chudesnitsa, Alexandrina, Binar, Belorusskaya sweet, Zusha, Dobrynya, Oryol Waltz. The varieties Dachnitsa, Exotika, Gulliver, Green Haze, Chebarkul, and Lazy are not resistant to mites. Most varieties of red and white currants are resistant to bud mite. There are susceptible varieties, but these types of currants are affected by the pest much less frequently than black currants and only when there is a lack of food supply for the mite, or its spread throughout the area is very strong.
2. Planting between garlic bushes or perennial onion. Their smell repels the pest. Plants are planted in clumps and the plantings are left for the winter.

It is very difficult to fight the kidney mite. All bushes must be inspected in the fall and early spring for the presence of affected buds. If they are detected, immediately take measures to eradicate the pest.

Leaf gall aphid

In the photo there is a gall aphid.

Description of the pest. Small insects 2-3 mm long yellow color, has very delicate body coverings. The pest settles on the underside of leaves, where it forms colonies. It most often affects white and red currants, but can also attack black currants. The eggs overwinter, which the female lays on the bark of annual growths next to the buds. In the spring, larvae emerge from the eggs and feed on young leaves and tender, juicy green shoots. By mid-summer, the aphids develop wings and move from the currant to herbaceous plants. By autumn, the aphids return to the currants, where the founding females lay eggs. Up to 10 generations of pests appear per season.

Nature of damage. A sucking insect that attacks the tops of shoots and young leaves of currants. Numerous red or brown bumpy swellings called galls appear on the upper side of the leaves. On the lower side, depressions appear in which single insects or colonies of aphids sit and suck the juice from young tissues. At severe damage the leaves curl and dry out, and pests move on to healthy leaves.

When massively infested, aphids can destroy young bushes. On mature fruit-bearing currants, the yield decreases sharply, the young growth is insignificant, thin and weak, and if severely damaged by aphids, it can dry out.

Control measures at the same time they are also preventive measures against aphids. Since many generations of pests appear over the summer, treatments are carried out 4-5 times per season, starting from early spring and finishing them in September. It is impossible to destroy aphids in one go.

Chemical means of controlling aphids.

1. Spraying leaves from the underside with insecticides Inta-Vir, Iskra, Karbofos, Aktellik, Kinmiks, Aktara. The first treatment is carried out in the spring when the buds open, but before flowering begins; 2nd - after flowering; 3rd - after picking berries, 4th in mid-late August, when aphids return to currants.
2. Treatment of currant bushes with the biological product Fitoverm; it is non-toxic and can be used during the fruiting period. Spraying is carried out throughout the season with an interval of 14-17 days.

After 2 times treatment with insecticides, if there is no further development of the pest, you can proceed to the use of folk remedies for currant protection.

Folk remedies for fighting aphids.

1. Spraying young shoots and leaves with soda solution from the underside. The body of the pest is very tender and when it comes into contact with the treated leaves, it receives severe burns and dies. To prepare a solution, pour 3-4 tablespoons of soda into 5 liters of water and spray the leaves on the tops of the shoots from the bottom. You can simply wash the top of the shoots with the same solution.
2. Hot pepper infusion. Finely chop fresh hot pepper, add water, bring to a boil and cook over low heat for 30-40 minutes, leave for 1-2 days. Dilute the resulting concentrate in 10 liters of water, add laundry soap. Spray currants when aphids appear. You can simply dilute a bag of dry red hot pepper in 200 ml of water and leave for 2 days. When preparing the concentrate, it is necessary to take protective measures, since when evaporating, pepper can cause irritation and burns to the eyes, respiratory tract and skin. The treatment is carried out wearing gloves, a mask and safety glasses.
3. Dilute 10 ml of 5% iodine in 5-7 liters of water and spray the bushes when a pest appears.

Prevention consists in removing all weeds on the plantation and using natural enemies of aphids. Ladybugs feed on aphids; to attract them, daisies, tansy, and yarrow are planted in the dacha. Natural enemies also include lacewings.

It is extremely undesirable to cut off shoots damaged by the pest, since it is at their border that the fruit branches of red and white currants are laid.

Shoot aphid

Description of the pest. A small insect 1.1-1.8 mm long, light green in color. Affects red, white, black currants and gooseberries. Also, its colonies may appear on fruit trees. The eggs overwinter on the bark near the buds; in April-May, the larvae emerge from them and feed on the juice of the buds, young leaves and petioles. At the beginning of summer, winged female dispersers appear, which, flying away, infect neighboring plants. 6-8 generations appear per season.

Nature of damage. It affects the tops of the shoots, where young and succulent leaves and young growth are located. The leaves curl into clumps, inside of which there are colonies of aphids. As the branches grow, clumps of leaves remain in the middle of the shoots unless aphids damage the newly growing tips.

Aphids on currants.

The development of annual growth slows down, leaf petioles become bent.

How to process currants. It is necessary to fight aphids systematically; one treatment is not enough.

1. Spraying currant bushes with Fitoverm prevents the attack of the pest and causes the death of existing colonies. Term protective action drug 14-16 days.
2. In case of a mass attack, Aktaru, Biokill, Kinmiks are used.

Folk remedies aphid control is very effective for moderate infestations. Shoot aphids on currants can be destroyed by using contact agents that cause damage to the integumentary tissues of the pest. Infusions are used for these purposes.

1. 10 g of white mustard are infused in 1 liter of water for 2 days, then the concentrate is filtered. 200 g of infusion is diluted in 10 liters of water and sprayed on the currants, or simply dipped the tops of the shoots into the solution.
2. Tobacco dust or shag. Pour 400 g of raw material into 5 liters of boiling water and leave for 48 hours. Strain, bring the infusion to 10 liters, add laundry soap as an adhesive. Treat damaged shoots from the underside. After 7-10 days the treatment is repeated.

Prevention. Attracting ladybugs and lacewings to the site, which feed on aphids.

Removing ants from the site that contribute to the spread of aphids.

Description of the pest. Damages black currant berries. The false caterpillar overwinters in a web cocoon in the ground. In the spring, during currant flowering, adult insects emerge. Females select the largest ovaries and lay one egg at their base. Inside the green berries, a false caterpillar emerges from the egg and feeds on the seeds without damaging the pulp. Then it gnaws through the peel, usually at the stalk, goes down on a cobweb and goes into the soil for the winter. One generation of pests appears per season.

Nature of damage. The false caterpillar eats the seeds, filling the berry with excrement. Damaged berries turn black earlier, grow larger and become ribbed from round. Such fruits stand out sharply against the background of still green berries. They are slightly larger than the usual fruits of this variety, irregular shape. After the caterpillar leaves, the berries fall off or rot.

How to deal with this pest.

1. Collection and destruction of browned and blackened ribbed berries during the period when the bulk of the fruit is still green.
2. At mass destruction Agravertin is used to combat sawfly. It paralyzes the insect, and after 1-2 days it dies. The treatment is carried out once when tying berries.
3. Spraying currant bushes with Fitoverm during fruit set.

Prevention. If there is a pest late autumn They dig up the ground under the bushes. The web cocoons end up on the surface and the false caterpillars overwintering in them die.

glass currant

Glasswort is one of the most dangerous pests of currants.

Description. A very dangerous pest of currants. Damages all types of currants and gooseberries. Caterpillars overwinter in damaged branches. They are quite large, up to 2 cm long, white, with a beige head. At the beginning of May, the caterpillar gnaws its way out, leaving only thin film bark, and pupate. At the end of May, a butterfly flies out through this hole. It has glassy-transparent wings with black veins and an orange border, a wingspan of about 23 mm, the body itself is bluish-black. Butterfly years last 30-35 days. During this time, they lay up to 60 eggs on the bark at a height of 40-70 cm. Caterpillars emerge from the eggs, which gnaw through the bark and feed on the pith.

Nature of damage. The caterpillar eats away the core of the branches, gradually descending down to ground level. During the initial introduction of the pest, no signs of damage are observed, the branches look healthy and only when pruning can progress be noticed. In the second year, the leaves on the shoots are crushed, and there are fewer berries on the damaged branches. The shoots dry starting from the tops. They are very noticeable after currants bloom.

Pests eat away the core of currant stems.

Pest control. Glassware is very dangerous. If you don’t start fighting it in time, the bushes may die.

1. Pest control involves pruning damaged branches to healthy wood. All cut shoots must be burned as quickly as possible.
2. During the flight of butterflies, the bushes are sprayed with Iskra and Actellik.

Folk remedies They are very effective in combating this pest; they can prevent the appearance of glassware on currants.

1. During the flight of butterflies, small containers with blackcurrant jam are hung on the bushes. This helps catch butterflies.
2. During the mass summer of butterflies, the bushes are sprayed with infusions that have a strong odor (onion, garlic, orange peels, stepchildren of tomatoes, pine needles). You can spray with tar (1 tsp per 5 liters of water). Unfamiliar smells repel the pest.

Prevention.

1. Using healthy planting material. You cannot take layerings and cuttings from bushes where glass beetle was noticed.
2. Do not buy seedlings with withered leaves or drying tops.
3. Removing all diseased and damaged branches.

If the pest is severely damaged, the currant bushes dry out. To save the variety, all branches are cut to ground level and if the roots are viable, they will produce young shoots.

Gooseberry moth

Description of the pest. Large moth, the front pair of wings are light brown, the back pair is light ash. During the day she hides in the bushes, at dusk and at night she flies. The caterpillars are also quite long - 10-11 mm, at first they are yellow-white with a black head, and then turn green. The caterpillars go into the ground to a depth of 3-4 cm, where they pupate. The overwintering stage is the pupa. At the end of April (at southern regions 2 weeks earlier) butterflies fly out of the pupae, the flight of which lasts 1-1.5 months. Females lay eggs inside inflorescences, on ovaries and leaves.

One generation is born per season. Damages red and white currants and gooseberries. It is less common on black currants, sometimes attacks raspberries.

Nature of damage. The caterpillar is very voracious, damaging berries by eating seeds and pulp. Then it moves on to the next berry. A thin web stretches from fruit to fruit. If protective measures are delayed, the pest weaves a cocoon of 10-12 damaged berries. The berries in the cocoon gradually rot or dry out. If you stir up the cocoon, you can find a caterpillar in the juiciest berry.

Control measures.

1. Collection and destruction of spider cocoons. The faster the pests can be collected, the less crop loss will be. The collected cocoons are burned or poured with boiling water.
2. Immediately after flowering, the bushes are sprayed with insecticides (Iskra, Actellik, Karbofos).
3. Immediately after flowering, currants are treated with the systemic-contact insecticide Senpai. The drug has proven itself as a means of combating various types pests

Folk remedies for combating moth.

1. Newspapers, cardboard, film, anything that prevents butterflies from coming to the surface are laid out under the bushes. After flowering, the protective material is removed.
2. 7-10 days before flowering begins, dust powder is sprinkled on the ground around the bushes. You can water it with a 12% dust solution.
3. Pollinating bushes with tobacco dust.
4. Infuse 10 g of elderberry in 1 liter of water for 48 hours, then strain. Pour 20 ml of the drug into 700-800 ml of water and treat the bushes.

All spraying with both chemical and folk remedies is carried out in the evening, when butterflies are most active.

Prevention.

1. Digging the ground under the bushes to 10-15 cm.
2. In autumn, the ground under the bushes is mulched with peat or simply sprinkled additional layer soil 15-17 cm high. Soil is taken from other parts of the garden where there are no pupae. In the spring, the butterfly will not be able to come to the surface and will die. At the end of flowering of gooseberries and currants, the bushes are unplanted.

Gooseberry moth

A beautiful butterfly, but it turns out to be a dangerous pest.

Description of the moth. Another common currant pest. Damages gooseberries and black currants. In addition, it can attack apple, pear, plum, and bird cherry trees.

The butterflies are very large, elegant with yellow and black spots and stripes. The caterpillars are large, up to 4 cm long, grayish-yellow with characteristic 4-angled spots. The caterpillar overwinters in a cobweb cocoon under bushes in fallen leaves. In the spring, it emerges from the cocoon and damages the buds and young leaves, then pupates, attaching an arachnoid cocoon to the leaves. 2 generations of pests are born per season

Nature of damage. Caterpillars eat leaves, gnawing large holes in them or eating them along the veins. In the spring, the buds are severely damaged and do not bloom but dry out. If no action is taken, they can eat almost all the leaves on the bush.

What to spray bushes with. If you start fighting the moth in time, you can avoid unpleasant consequences.

1. On and around bushes, spider cocoons are collected and destroyed.
2. Treatment with biological products, Fitoverm, Bitoxibacillin, Lepidocid. Currants (and other shrubs where the pest is spotted) are sprayed when the leaves bloom and in early July, when the second generation of caterpillars hatch.
3. With strong spread, when soft remedies control is insufficient, spray with insecticides: Iskra, Karbofos, Biokill.

Folk methods of struggle. If the number of pests is small, you can deal with them using traditional methods.

1. Spraying with infusion of tobacco dust.
2. Spraying with a decoction of tomato tops. 1 kg of tops, fresh or dried, pour 1 liter of water, boil for 30 minutes, leave for 2 hours. The resulting concentrate is brought to 10 liters and the bushes are sprayed.
3. Treatment with mustard infusion.

Traditional methods are used for both control and prevention. The smell repels butterflies, and the substances contained in the products have a burning effect on the tender abdomen of the caterpillars and they die.

Rose leaf roller

This pest is dangerous not only for currants, but also for other plants.

Description of the pest. Polyphagous pest. Damages many horticultural crops, including currants.

The butterflies are medium in size, the front wings are yellow with small brown spots, the hind wings are light brown. The caterpillars are green and brownish-green. The eggs overwinter on the bark under the shield. In the spring, caterpillars emerge from them, feed for 25-40 days, then pupate. The mass flight of butterflies occurs in June and early July; they lay up to 250 eggs. 1 generation develops over the summer.

There are other types of leaf rollers, all of which are usually omnivorous and can damage currants.

Nature of damage. The photo shows how the caterpillars twist the leaf, fastening the edges with a web, live in it and come out of it to feed on neighboring leaves, buds, flowers and fruits. During the season, the pest changes its shelter several times, twisting new leaves into a tube on the bush. It pupates in the same leaf.

Wounds of varying sizes and depths appear on damaged fruits.

Damaged flowers acquire a reddish tint and fall off without setting fruit.

Ways to fight for all types of leafrollers are the same.

1. Collecting and burning rolled leaves.
2. Use of insecticides: Karbofos, Alatar, Iskra, etc.

Measures to combat leaf rollers should affect all fruit and berry plantings, since it easily moves from one type of shrub to another.

Folk remedies for pest control. As protective measures, products with a strong odor and contact agents that act on caterpillars are used.

1. Wormwood decoction. Pour 1/2 bucket of finely chopped fresh wormwood into 10 liters of water and leave for 48 hours. Then boil the infusion for 30 minutes, cool, increase the volume to 10 liters and treat trees and shrubs. Instead of fresh wormwood, you can take dry powder 700-800 g.
2. Spraying with tobacco infusion.
3. Decoction of tomato tops.
4. One of effective measures Sugar syrup or fermented currant jam is used to catch butterflies. 0.7-1 liter jars are filled 1/3 with bait and hung on bushes at a height of at least 1.1-1.3 m. The next day, the jars with the caught butterflies are removed. You can use bread kvass instead of these ingredients.

Prevention.

1. Early spring “blue” spraying of the garden with the addition of insecticides to the solution.
2. Regular inspections of plantings for the presence of various pests.
3. Spraying the garden in spring when the snow melts and in autumn when the air temperature is not higher than 8°C, with a concentrated solution of urea (700 g / 10 l of water).

Gall midges

Description of the pest. Gall midges - small insects, there are 3 types: leaf, shoot and flower. The larvae overwinter under bushes in the soil at shallow depths. During the period of bud protrusion, adult insects fly out - flower gall midge mosquitoes; at the beginning of flowering, leaf gall midges appear, and during the flowering period, shoot gall midges appear. Mosquitoes fly in the lower part of the bush and lay eggs on flowers, on leaves and in cracks in the bark. Yellowish larvae emerge from them and feed on plant sap.

The photo shows a gall midge caterpillar.

Nature of damage. The larvae suck juice from damaged tissues. Swellings (galls) or wrinkling appear on the affected organs.

Affected flowers do not set. They acquire a reddish color, curl and crumble.

On shoots, the larvae live under the bark, forming colonies there. Small galls first form on the bark, and then it dies. The shoots stop growing and dry out.

When the pest spreads massively, the bushes are severely suppressed, the branches dry out and die, and the yield disappears. Control measures must be taken immediately, otherwise plantings may be lost.

How to deal with a pest.

1. Flowers infested with gall midges are very difficult to identify, but leaves and affected shoots are removed.
2. Treatment with broad-spectrum insecticides. The same solutions are used to water the ground around the currants to prevent mosquitoes from flying out.

Folk remedies.

1. Cover the soil under currant bushes during the summer of mosquitoes with newspapers, film, agrofibre.
2. Pollination or spilling the ground under the bushes with ash or infusion of tobacco dust.

Prevention.

1. Preventive spraying of currants with insecticides before flowering and immediately after it.
2. Mulching the soil around the bushes with peat or sawdust.

The most important thing when fighting gall midges is to recognize them in time. On initial stages It's pretty easy to deal with.

It should be remembered that if any pest appears after fruit set, it should be combated only with biological products.

Black currant grows and bears fruit on every summer cottage. Her beneficial features undeniable. But, like other garden crops, it is susceptible to damage by various pests, including the currant bud mite. This article describes different ways protecting the berry plant from pest attack and measures to combat it.

Currant bud mite

The currant bud mite is a four-legged mite. It is extremely difficult to see them due to their microscopic size. External dimensions adult female kidney mites are 0.2 mm, and males are even smaller. The body of the currant bud mite is white, worm-shaped, elongated and round, with 4 legs. The legs are made up of segments, hence the name arthropods. Using piercing-sucking mouthparts, mites suck out the sap of plants, dooming them to death.

Development cycle of currant bud mite

Fertilized female currant bud mites overwinter in the buds. A closed shelter protects them from winter frosts and other weather disasters.

In the spring, when the air warms up to +5°C, female currant bud mites begin to intensively lay eggs. One female is capable of laying about 8,000 eggs. One bud can contain 3-8 thousand individuals at the same time, causing the bud to swell and become like a miniature pea. In cross-section, such a pea resembles a bursting head of cabbage.

The intraovular development of the currant bud mite larva lasts about 6-12 days. Gluttonous young individuals, through tears in the “head” during the bud opening period, penetrate into healthy buds and begin to feed. By sucking out the juice of young shoots, flower and vegetative buds, they lead to the death of plant organs that have not yet developed. The migration of young females and larvae of the currant bud mite lasts about a month, coinciding with the phase of the beginning and mass flowering. During this period they can be seen with the naked eye. The horde of voracious pests is carried by wind, clothing, and rain to other bushes.

How dangerous is the currant bud mite?

Based on the level of harmfulness, the currant bud mite belongs to the group of very dangerous pests of garden and berry fruit crops. In one year, 1 female currant bud mite gives 5 generations (2 spring and 3 summer-autumn), which is about 15-40 thousand pests. In the process of development, currant bud mites have adapted to endure climatic disasters in protected conditions (buds, shoots, galls, etc.), which complicates the fight against these pests. The developed adaptability is so reliable that if drastic protective measures are not taken, the berry plant (black, red, white currant and gooseberries) can die in one season.

Signs of damage by currant bud mite

The currant bud mite mainly affects the buds of the plant. By autumn, deformed, damaged buds increase in size and begin to external form different from healthy people.

On currant bushes affected by currant bud mite in autumn After the leaves fall, two types of buds are clearly distinguished:

• Healthy buds, normally developed flower buds, rounded elongated and elongated leaves, covered with outer dense scales.
• Patients are swollen, round, resembling a tousled miniature head of cabbage. They are swollen with a huge number of wintering mature female ticks, which are ready to reproduce with the onset of warm weather.

During the spring-summer period:

• The change in shape, size and color of leaves on the tops of young shoots is alarming.
• The leaf blade becomes rough, leathery to the touch, light in color, and may be deformed.
• The shoot stops developing. Witches' brooms appear on the stems. This is a viral infection of plants, the carriers of which, along with other pests, are bud mites. They are carriers of viral diseases such as leaf reversion and double flower. There is no treatment. Diseased plants are destroyed.

Measures to combat currant bud mite

It is very difficult to fight the currant bud mite, which spends almost its entire life inside the bud. Maximum amount vulnerable larvae could be killed by treating them with pesticides upon relocation. But, given the period of relocation (budding and flowering), treatments are strictly prohibited, since at this moment pollination by beneficial insects (bees, bumblebees) occurs. Therefore, currant bud mites are classified as special dangerous pests. Methods of active destruction of the currant bud mite are carried out in the period before flowering and after harvesting.

All types of control of currant bud mite on currants can be divided into:

• preventive;
• agrotechnical;
• chemical;
• biological;
• folk.

Prevention against tick-borne infestation

Preventive measures against currant bud mite include:

• maintaining the site without weeds;
• cleaning the berry garden from leaf litter;
• mandatory sanitary pruning autumn and spring;
• propagation only with healthy planting material.

Agrotechnical measures

Timely watering, fertilizing and treating plants, which will increase the plants’ immunity to the damaging effects of pests.

For planting and propagation, use only zoned, pest-resistant varieties.

It is very important that planting material was not affected by the pest. To prevent infection, you can completely immerse a seedling or rooted cutting for 18-20 hours in a working solution prepared from agrovertin (10 g) and colloidal sulfur (40 g) in 10 liters of water.

Before planting, seedlings and rooted shoots can be kept in hot water(+40..+45°C no more) for 15 minutes;

The larvae of currant bud mites do not tolerate high humidity air. You can take advantage of this property and, during the first migration of hatched larvae (the first spring generation), drain the berry garden.

Every year, in early spring (early March), treat the dormant buds of black, red and white currant bushes (currant only) with fire.

Performing the procedure: After sanitary and thinning pruning of currant bushes, using a blowtorch fire or gas burner at a distance of 8-10 cm, move along the branches 2-3 times from top to bottom, without stopping, so as not to burn the branches. Heating by fire will kill aphids and most bud mites without damaging the plant. Fire will not damage healthy buds covered with dense upper scales. Diseased buds are loose, the cover is torn by overpopulation of the bud by pests that lay eggs of future offspring. They are very vulnerable during this period and the fire (high temperature) burns and causes the death of unwanted “tenants”. Of course, not all females die with this method, but their activity decreases sharply.

During the same period, instead of fire treatment, you can “bathe” currant bushes with a hot shower, spending on big bush 1.0-1.2 buckets of water.

Carrying out the procedure: To process the bushes, it is more convenient to use a watering can with a sprinkler. Pour boiling water into a container. Above the bush, from a height of approximately 15-20 cm, we wash the bush. At low air temperatures, hot boiling water, when filling the waterer and until the water reaches the bush, will cool to +60..+70°C. This temperature will not damage the plant, but will destroy some pests (the principle of action is the same as during fire treatment) and fungal infections.

Physical destruction of currant bud mite

At spring pruning It is necessary to carefully examine each currant branch. If there are 1-2 swollen buds on a branch, they are torn off and placed in a bag, which is then burned. If the number of swollen buds is 4-6 pieces, and they are scattered throughout the branch, it must be cut off and burned. Such physical destruction of the currant bud mite is effective, especially if this procedure is performed annually in spring and autumn.

The use of chemicals and other drugs to destroy the currant bud mite

The following methods for exterminating currant bud mites are not safe for the owner, his family, pets and birds. Therefore, before starting to use pesticides to kill ticks, it is necessary to carefully prepare, study the action and aftereffects of the chemical, its effectiveness, repeated use and technical recommendations in the specialized literature.

Frequency of treatments

If the instructions for use of the drug are violated, its effectiveness can be reduced to zero.

The development cycle of the currant bud mite depends on external temperatures. The first active development of currant bud mite larvae begins at an air temperature of +10..+12°C, but their emergence and migration may occur after 25 days, until the air warms up to +18°C. The higher the air temperature rises, the shorter the period of development from the egg of a carnivorous larva, which will infect new buds on the native and neighboring bushes (Table 1).

Table 1. Treatment intervals with drugs against currant bud mite

The number of treatments in the temperature range must be at least three:

• the first treatment destroys overwintered adult female currant bud mites and hatched larvae (cold-resistant). Some eggs do not have time to go through the development cycle;
• with the onset of warmth, the second wave of larvae completes the development cycle. If you do not maintain the treatment interval (if you are late in treating the bushes), the larvae have time to turn into adult ticks and lay a second clutch of eggs.
• the third treatment is safety. The surviving young females of the currant bud mite can lay eggs, which will give rise to a new outbreak of infection of the bushes.

It is especially important to record the first migration of currant bud mite larvae. During this period they are visible to the naked eye. After treating the bushes, monitor the temperature in the future and observe the treatment interval. For example: the temperature is maintained in the range of +20..25°C – the treatment interval is 8-10 days.

The use of pesticides against currant bud mite

For “lovers” of quick measures, you can offer several chemical preparations for treating plants.

Ticks are arachnids, so they are destroyed not with insecticidal preparations, but with acaricidal and insectoacaricidal ones.

Please note! The use of chemicals if used incorrectly can be harmful to health. Therefore it is necessary:

• observe personal safety measures (gloves, goggles, hat, respirator or multi-layer bandage, gown);
• strictly follow the instructions;
• When used in spring and autumn, it is recommended to alternate medications so as not to cause an addictive effect.

The most vulnerable period for currant bud mites is when the larvae move to new places. During the phase of budding and leaf opening, the first wave of hatched currant bud mite larvae enters the open space.

Movement to new territories lasts 2-3 weeks. It is during this period that you need to carry out at least 2 sprayings with an interval of 8-12 days.

Among the pesticides used against the currant bud mite during this period, acaricidal drugs are used:

• Endidor;
• Forbid 4F;
• Nissan;
• Vertimek;
• Akktelik;
• Contos.

The next period for using pesticides against the currant bud mite is to treat the bushes after full harvesting (so that children do not eat such delicious last berries from the bushes). It is recommended at this point to use acaricidal drugs with a stronger effect:

• BI-58;
• Rogor-S;
• Phosfamide;
• San Might;
• Nitrafen.

Treatment of currants with sulfur preparations

Among the sulfur preparations against the currant bud mite, colloidal sulfur (Sulfaride) and karbofos are used. They can be used to treat the bushes and soil around them until flowering ends. A solution of colloidal sulfur is prepared at the rate of 10 g of the drug, and 75 g of karbofos per 10 liters of water. Sulfur is far from a harmless drug and, at the dosage used, can cause burns to young leaves and their loss. Therefore, repeated spraying (after flowering) is carried out with a solution of 2 times less concentration. The most high efficiency from treating currant bushes with solutions of colloidal sulfur appears at temperatures not lower than +20°C.

Currants form a harvest in short time, and the effect of the drug can last a long time. Therefore, chemical preparations are used once, only during the phase of bud extension and the beginning of mass budding. Further use of pesticides is prohibited. A transition to the use of more gentle means for human health when exterminating pests is necessary.

The use of biological products against currant bud mite

Bioacaricides can serve as such means. They are developed based on positive strains of fungi and bacteria and are harmless to humans. Along with a large list positive properties bioacaricides and bioinsectoacaricides, there are also restrictions on their use. The main thing is that the drug works effectively at elevated temperatures (+15..+19ºС). In windy, cold weather, which often happens in early spring, they are useless. If spring is early, it's different high temperatures, the use of acaricidal drugs is highly effective.

The best known bioacaricides are:

• bicol;
• Boverine;
• bitoxybacillin;
• phytofarms;
• acarin.

The drugs are used at intervals depending on temperature environment, before flowering and after harvesting. Drugs must be alternated. They are well compatible in tank mixtures with biofungicides. However, before preparing a tank mixture, it is necessary to check the compatibility of drugs, especially new ones. Dilution and processing methods are indicated on the packaging. Do not deviate from the recommendations; independence will not bring success.

Using folk recipes against currant bud mite

Some experienced gardeners against the currant bud mite, it is recommended to treat plants with infusion in the cold spring before the possibility of using bioacaricidal preparations:

• garlic;
• onion peel;
• tobacco;
• green covers of walnuts or winter infusion of their fallen leaves.

You can plant berry bushes with garlic or perennial onions. Ticks are disgusted by their smell. They lose the ability to reproduce. But when using chemicals to treat bushes, garlic and onions are not recommended for food.

The use of herbal preparations in pest control is not a panacea. For some time they can slow down the reproduction of the pest, but do not destroy it.

Save the environment!

The oldest method of exterminating pests was invented by nature itself. Every pest has in nature natural enemies entomophages that effectively reduce the number of plant pests. Be attentive to the small workers of gardens and berry fields. When using chemicals, remember that you are also destroying beneficial fauna.

Ticks are effectively destroyed by beneficial insects:

• ladybug(stetorus);
• carnivorous bug;
• carnivorous mite;
• lacewing;
• chalcids (riding insects);
• Phytoseiulus;
• encarzia
• hoverfly and others.

More details about herbivorous mites can be found in the article “”.

Dear readers! You have become familiar with the main methods of exterminating the currant bud mite, which causes significant harm berry crops. Not all methods are harmless to humans, animals, beneficial insects. Before using any of the drugs suggested in the article or purchased, carefully read its effects and decide whether its use is suitable for you. The choice is yours. Offer us your ways to protect berry plants from this and other pests in the comments to this material.

Currants occupy a place of honor in many gardens, because this crop is distinguished by its relative unpretentiousness and the ability to provide the gardener with not only tasty, vitamin-rich berries, but also healthy leaves and shoots. The aroma of black currant cannot be confused with the smell of other crops, but sometimes plantings of this crop risk dying due to pest invasion. The most insidious of them are currant bud and spider mites. Microscopic in size, they destroy the crop and lead to complete depletion of the bushes.

Scale of harm caused

Both bud mites and spider mites can lead to crop loss, and if not controlled, cause the death of black currant plantings. Despite small sizes, these pests cause enormous damage to plants due to their numbers. In addition, bushes weakened by their activities become targets for various kinds diseases and other pests.

In early April, female bud mites begin to actively lay eggs (up to 8,000 from one female), which “mature” within 6-12 days. After this time, young individuals of the bud mite emerge and rush to healthy parts of the plants, climbing inside the yet unopened buds. They feed on plant sap, leading to the drying out of still unexpanded leaves, inflorescences and young shoots. In one year, the kidney mite produces at least 5 generations of offspring.

However, the main danger is not only the depletion of the plant. Even if you take timely measures to combat the pest, the bush may suffer from the terry virus, which can only be gotten rid of by completely destroying the plant.

Spider mite is a pest that causes weakening of the plant. Its activity leads to a deterioration in winter hardiness, which is why black currants can freeze even in a warm winter with a large snow cover. There is no need to talk about productivity at all, since without a supply of certain substances obtained during the process of photosynthesis, flower buds on this crop are not formed.

Description of pests and signs of their appearance

It is not always the case that mites are detected on black currants within a few days after they settle in the plantings. This is primarily due to the small size of the pests. For example, a kidney mite has a body length of only 0.2 mm - females, males have an even smaller body, and a spider mite - from 0.24 to 0.47 mm

(males and females respectively). It can be extremely difficult to detect them without magnifying glasses, but traces of their activity are visible to the naked eye.

Signs of kidney mite activity

As its name suggests, the currant bud mite only affects the buds of the plant. It is by their appearance that the presence of a pest on plantings can be detected. When the snow melts, unusually large buds, sometimes severely deformed, are clearly visible on infected plants. The fact is that sexually mature female ticks overwinter in them, ready to reproduce with the onset of the first fine days.

The condition of the plantings and, accordingly, the future harvest depend on the time of detection of spider and bud mites on black currants. That is why it is recommended to annually inspect the branches for the presence of swollen buds and remove them before the first generation of mites emerges. During summer infection, signs of damage by bud mites include changes in the shape, color and structure of the apical leaf blades. They become leathery, slightly deformed and lighten.

Signs of spider mites

It’s not for nothing that the spider mite is called the scourge of gardens, because this pest can handle more than 200 crops, which he feeds on throughout the summer. Only the female pests survive the winter, hiding under fallen leaves. In the spring, they climb onto plants and lay thousands of translucent eggs on young leaves. A week later, larvae emerge from them, entangle the leaf blade with a web and feed on its juices.

Notice the activity spider mites possible by careful examination of black currants. First, light microscopic dots appear on the leaves of (single) bushes, which later completely cover them. Gradually, such marbling transfers to neighboring leaf blades. Sometimes the finest cobwebs can be found on berry bunches.

How to treat currant bushes

All means for controlling mites on black currants are divided into two types:

• chemical;
• organic (folk).

To reduce the number of pests on a single plant, you can selectively cut out infected branches and destroy them in a fire. It is not recommended to leave cut branches even for a short time within the garden, much less throw them on the ground, as pests can get on healthy plants located nearby.

Chemicals

Important point: Conventional insecticides do not affect spider mites and kidney mites, since these pests are not insects! If they appear, it is necessary to use acaricides and insectoacaricides.

The most popular and safe for humans and warm-blooded animals are preparations based on colloidal sulfur and hormonal acaricidal preparations:

• Envidor;
• Nissan;
• Kontos;
• Forbid 4F.

It is recommended to use them at the time of migration of female spider mites and bud mites, as well as during mass breeding of offspring, that is, in the spring, during the blooming of leaves. For greater effect, it is important to carry out two treatments with an interval of 10-12 days between them.

After harvesting, you can use more powerful systemic organophosphorus acaricides:

• Rogor-S;
• Bi-58;
• Phosfamide.

Young non-fruiting plantings are treated with acaricides containing active ingredients based on dimethoate:

• Dimetrin;
• Accent;
• Danadim;
• Pilarmax.

It is important not to exceed the dosage of medications and not to try to use large quantity solution than the instructions for use recommend. It is also recommended to alternate products so that pests do not develop immunity to them.

Biological method

An unusual method of freeing a garden from uninvited microscopic guests is to breed beneficial insects in it, which in nature consider mites (including bud mites and spider mites) as food. These include bedbugs, flesh-eating mites, stetorus (ladybug) and lacewings.

Folk remedies

Among the most popular remedies for spider mites and bud mites are classic infusions from plants that are distinguished by either a strong aroma or an abundance of bitterness. So, The following formulations are considered the most effective:

1. Infusion of tobacco or shag.
2. An infusion of dandelion roots and leaves.
3. Garlic infusion.
4. Decoction of onion peels.
5. A decoction of unripe walnuts.
6. Garlic infusion.

The disadvantage of folk remedies is the need for repeated processing throughout the entire growing season with an interval of 5-7 days. Advantages: complete safety for people and pets. Moreover, treatment with folk remedies can be carried out even at the moment of ripening of the crop.

Mite-resistant varieties

Unfortunately, at the moment there is no currant variety that is resistant to attack by all types of mites, including bud mites and spider mites. The second, by the way, does not hesitate to destroy the strongest plants that are immune to diseases and pests.

Only some varieties of black currant are resistant to the bud mite:

In addition to the listed varieties, black currants “Nightingale Night”, “Belorusskaya Rannyaya” and “Shalunya” are relatively resistant to bud mite. The bud mite affects red currants as often as black currants. Currently, breeders have developed several varieties resistant to this pest.

Prevention measures

You can effectively fight mites on blackcurrant bushes using many methods, including treating the plantings with chemicals or using folk remedies. However, a much simpler technique is to prevent these pests from infecting your garden.

Despite the apparent complexity, you can stop the attack of mites on black currants by performing a few simple steps:

1. Regular destruction of weeds on the site. Many pests often wait out the winter on them, and ticks are among them.
2. Cleaning autumn garden from fallen leaves. Spider mites most often overwinter in them.
3. Propagation of black currant by healthy shoots or already rooted seedlings. To avoid the appearance of diseased plants on the site, it is recommended to warm them in hot water (up to 46 degrees) for no more than 15 minutes before planting.
4. Strengthening the resistance (own immunity) of plants to pests by timely application of fertilizers to the soil and foliar feeding.

In addition, it is important to dig up the soil directly under the currant bushes every year, and in the fall to remove unfallen leaves and enlarged buds from the plants.

The main point in the fight against spider mites and kidney mites is timeliness and consistency. With the proper approach and responsible implementation of agrotechnical requirements, the bushes of this crop will remain healthy, even if ticks spoil all the plantings on the neighbors’ plots.