Mealy disease. How to cope with adversity. Why is powdery mildew dangerous?

Powdery mildew– an infectious plant disease. It is dangerous because it can spread quickly, capturing new plantings. If measures are not taken, the plants may die.

What does powdery mildew look like?

Powdery mildew (MP) is caused by different types of microorganisms belonging to the same family. The symptoms of infection are always the same: a white coating appears on the upper surface of the leaves, making the leaf look as if it is powdered or dusted with flour. At this stage, many people make the mistake of mistaking the symptom for ordinary dust and try to brush off the plaque with their finger. But the next day it appears again and moves to neighboring leaves.

In addition to the leaves, young shoots, peduncles, and fruits turn white. Plaque can also spread to the underside of the leaf. The spots grow, become brownish or grayish, become denser and take on the appearance of felt or a brown film.

Already on day 2-3, the plates that were the first to suffer turn yellow and dry out. New leaves grow deformed and weak.

Even a slight infection of a plant by powdery mildew reduces the winter hardiness of shoots and buds, as a result they freeze in winter.

After the spores mature, droplets appear on the surface of the plaque - hence the name of the disease “powdery mildew.” Plants, having lost a significant part of their leaf blades, experience a lack of nutrients, because a leaf is an organ in which the process of photosynthesis occurs.

You need to be able to distinguish MR from peronosporosis or downy mildew. In the latter case, the spots on the leaves are not white, but yellowish-brown, and gray mold develops on the underside of the leaves

Which plantings are damaged by powdery mildew?

In the garden, the fungus attacks gooseberries and currants. Sugar beets, pumpkins, especially cucumbers, roses, grapes, peaches, and strawberries are not resistant to the disease. Woody plants at risk include:

• barberry,
• hawthorn,
• maple,
• hazelnut,
• rose hip,
• Rowan,

Among indoor plants, erysifaceae attack roses, begonias, violets, ficuses, and hydrangeas. The disease can be found on cissus, gerbera, and Kalanchoe.

Scheme for protecting blackcurrants and gooseberries from powdery mildew

Shrubs are sprayed against powdery mildew four times per season:

• in spring,
• before and after flowering,
• after harvest.

For spraying, use a 1% suspension of colloidal sulfur or a three-day infusion of manure 1:3, diluted 3 times before use. In addition, to protect against other fungal diseases, before bud break and after leaf fall, currant plantings are sprayed with a composition prepared from 100 g copper sulfate+ 100 grams of quicklime, diluted in 20 liters of water.

Infected bushes are cleared of diseased leaves and shoots. In autumn, fallen leaves are raked and burned.

There are currant varieties that are resistant to powdery mildew. These are Dikovinka, Katyusha, Bagheera, Karelian, Black Pearl, Green Haze. The varieties Biryulyovskaya and Leningradsky giant are severely affected. The currant variety Plotnokistnaya is resistant to most diseases and pests.

Folk remedies for powdery mildew

How to treat plants when powdery mildew appears - use popular measures control by spraying the affected plantings with one of the following home-made products:

• pink solution of potassium permanganate;
• soda ash– dilute 5 g of soda in a liter of water and spray it once a week, trying to get it on the top and bottom sides of the plates;
• water infusion of garlic;
• a mixture of antibiotics - penicillin + streptomycin 1:1.

For better adhesion of the solution, add one teaspoon for every liter of water. liquid soap or soap shavings.

Before processing, remove diseased leaves and cut off affected shoots. Cuttings must not be placed in compost heap. After cleaning and spraying, feed the plants with phosphorus-potassium fertilizer.

Powdery mildew preparations

Anti-powdery mildew medications will help you cope with the problem:

• Anvil,
• Bayleton,
• Baykor,
• Topaz,
• Copper Kupros,
• Tilt,
• Triadimefon,
• Vectra,
• Soon,
• Strobe
• Fundazol.

In greenhouses, fumigation with colloidal sulfur is used. The result is obtained by treating with copper oxychloride - 0.5%, copper-soap emulsion - copper sulfate + laundry soap for adhesion.

The most popular drug for powdery mildew is Topaz: the active ingredient is penconazole. The product protects berries, seeds, vegetables, ornamental crops and grapes. When treating indoor plants with Topaz, no stains remain on the leaves, which is convenient when treating Uzambara violets.

IN middle lane Topaz is used to treat black currants, gooseberries, cucumbers, raspberries, and cherries. In addition to powdery mildew, penconazole suppresses the development of spotting, gray rot and rust.

Powdery mildew headache every gardener. If you don’t start fighting it in time, you can lose the entire harvest, or even the plant itself or part of it. This disease usually manifests itself in the second part summer season and affects all types of plants without exception, even indoor flowers.

The soil contains a huge number of spores of various fungal pathogens, including powdery mildew pathogens. They become active when conditions favorable to them arise. For example, with high humidity and cold weather, spores come to life and begin to actively reproduce.

First, they colonize the leaves located below, since they are closer to the ground, and then they completely infect the entire plant. Spores can also enter through contaminated water that is used to water it, and through the air from already infected vegetation.

Symptoms of the disease

As the disease spreads, the plant becomes more and more covered with plaque, which acquires a dense structure and turns brown. Capsules containing fungal spores are formed on the surface of the plaque. The damage caused by the disease is colossal. The disease has various types and signs.

Downy mildew

This disease is characterized by the following symptoms: white or gray spots on the leaves, and gray mold on the back of the leaf. The plant takes on a sickly appearance. The cause of the disease is bacteria. Downy mildew occurs when there are sudden changes in temperature with high humidity. These conditions are optimal for the germination of spores of pathogens. Downy mildew affects all plants, but rarely indoor flowers. They can only become infected from soil in which spores are present.

Measures to combat powdery mildew

At the first signs of the disease, it is necessary to urgently deal with it. Otherwise, this disease will take over your entire garden. Treatment required integrated approach and prevention. To begin with, reduce the amount of nitrogen fertilizers and regulate the watering regime - this harms the vegetation.

Preparations for powdery mildew are:

• chemical;
• bacterial;
• folk remedies.

Chemicals

Preparations for the treatment of fungal diseases - fungicides. They will help you quickly get rid of powdery mildew and downy mildew. The most common systemic fungicide against powdery mildew - the drug "Buperimat". It effectively fights the disease, both at an early and advanced stage.

Fungicides are sprayed on the buds and soil of plants. After the flowering process, for prevention, the plant can be sprayed with a solution of copper sulfate. If the disease appears on indoor flowers, they must be taken outside and treated with a fungicide solution.

Choosing chemicals it is necessary to pay attention to their composition. If the fungicide contains sulfur, you should not treat it with it. fruit bushes, they don't tolerate it well. Sulfur is suitable for treating grapes, peaches and some varieties of strawberries.

Remember that sulfur is a method of prevention; it cannot cope with the disease.

The use of a fungicide can harm the plant and affect the quality of the crop. The components included in their composition can accumulate in fruits and berries.

Bacterial preparations

Unlike chemical species do not harm your “green pets”, but can effectively fight the disease. Diseases such as powdery mildew are well treated with phytosporin. This bacterial preparation. Available in paste, powder and liquid form. Suitable for treatment and protection indoor flowers.

Fitosporin is used in early spring as soon as the snow melted. They spray the soil and plant. Also, to consolidate the effect after flowering, the plant is treated with a solution of vitriol or sulfur. Fitosporin treats planting material, increases the plant’s resistance to different types pests, and also stabilizes the growth of seedlings. The drug phytosporin reduces the germination time of all types of seeds.

Treatment with folk remedies

Most often they are used to prevent disease. There are many types of treatment, but in severe cases they are ineffective. But they do not harm plants.

Based on vitriol

Downy mildew can be treated well with a soap solution to which copper sulfate is added. The solution must be made as follows: dissolve 50 grams of soap in 5 liters hot water. Add 5 grams of copper sulfate to the container. We treat the affected leaves of fruit or indoor flowers with this emulsion. Soda with vitriol is excellent for treatment.

Before the buds open, the tree or plant is sprayed with a solution of vitriol. Soda is applied to the treatment after the flowers appear.

Sulfur

Sulfur can effectively fight this disease. Sulfur in an amount of 40 grams is dissolved in 10 liters of water. Spray the currants with the solution until the flowers appear. Sulfur cannot be used to process gooseberries. Sulfur itself has no effect on the destruction of fungus. But penetrating inside, the spores form a substance called hydrogen sulfide with hydrogen, which has a toxic effect and destroys the disease.

Soda

Soda ash is good at eliminating downy and powdery mildew on indoor flowers. Soda in the amount of 40 g. diluted with 5 liters of water. Soda is pre-diluted with 50 grams laundry soap. Spray the plant every 10 days. Such protection fights the disease well.

Solutions of fermented milk products are good for getting rid of this disease.. Lactic acid bacteria are able to destroy pathogenic fungi, but cannot get rid of spores. The spray solution is prepared very simply: one part of the fermented milk product is diluted with 10 parts of water.

For the treatment of indoor colors will suit mullein infusions. Take three parts water and one part mullein. Let the resulting solution infuse for three days. Before processing, dilute with water.

A decoction of garlic will quickly cure a diseased plant. Pour boiling water over 100 grams of garlic and cool. We use it to treat the affected areas of the plant.

Disease Prevention

To avoid treating plants and flowers, it is important not only to control powdery mildew, but also to prevent plants. First of all, planting plants should only be done on healthy soils, where infected trees or flowers have not previously been planted, as well as:

1. Delete in a timely manner weeds Location on.
2. Burn infected parts of flowers and plants.
3. Every year, after fruiting, cut off old and dry branches that harm the plant.
4. During the summer season, plants and flowers are periodically sprayed with a sulfur solution.
5. It is necessary to thin out densely growing plants.
6. Plants most susceptible to this disease are best planted in an open and bright place.
7. When watering a plant or indoor flowers, try not to wet the leaves.
8. Regularly remove fallen leaves from the area, as they are the main carrier of fungal spores.

Crops affected by the Peronosporaceae fungus become sticky to the touch, and leaves, berries or buds covered with powdery mildew acquire a bluish coating. Fruits with a white coating will no longer ripen - they will crack and fall off. The same thing will happen to flowers if you don’t do something about it. necessary measures and not protect your plantings.

What does powdery mildew disease look like?

Powdery mildew is a fungal disease. Powdery mildew is caused by ascomycete fungi. Most often it is more active in the spring. Young leaves and shoot tips on plants are affected first. They become covered with a white powdery coating, stop growing and become deformed. The plaque gradually becomes thicker and darkens. The affected parts of the plants begin to die, and the ovary does not form on them. This disease of fruit and berry crops reduces yield by 50–80% and also reduces their resistance to frost.

Powdery mildew often affects cucumbers, zucchini, squash and pumpkins.

Look at the photo - leaves affected by powdery mildew turn pale, wrinkle, then darken and dry out:

The stems and young leaves of the plants are pale, and the fruits are underdeveloped, ripen earlier than usual and lose their taste. Fungi persist in the soil on plant debris and weeds. Powdery mildew most often affects vegetables grown in closed ground. In gooseberries, the berries are also affected.

On strawberries, powdery mildew spots have a purple or reddish tint, and it is practically invisible on the berries. Affected berries dry out unripe or quickly soften.

On potatoes, powdery mildew occurs at the end growing season in the form of a barely noticeable cobwebby coating covering the stems and leaves.

The disease affects most species cultivated plants: fruit trees, berries, vegetables, melons(, pumpkin, strawberries, raspberries, pears, apples, cabbage, cucumbers, beets, dill,).

Powdery mildew control agents

What to do if powdery mildew affects your plantings? What are the most effective means of combating + powdery mildew?

Diseased parts of plants are destroyed. Plants are sprayed during the period of bud swelling with a 3% solution of Bordeaux mixture or a 1% solution of colloidal sulfur. To prevent the disease, nitrogen-containing fertilizers are applied to the soil in moderation, and the crown is regularly thinned. It is recommended to plant varieties of currants and gooseberries that are resistant to powdery mildew.

In addition, at the first signs of disease, spray the plants with a powdery mildew preparation such as Zircon (6 drops per 1 liter of water), or pour Fitosporin solution on top of the leaves (2 tablespoons of solution per 10 liters of water). Use carbendazim, whey from yogurt, brewed hay dust, iodine (10 ml bottle of 5/0 solution per 10 liters of water). Spraying or dousing should be repeated every other week until plaque stops appearing.

Also, at the first signs of powdery mildew, spray with a 0.5% solution of sodium phosphate disubstituted (no more than 3 times) or a 1% colloidal sulfur emulsion. After the end of flowering, the plants are pollinated with a mixture of 1 part sulfur-colored and 2 parts road dust no more than 5 times with an interval of 2 weeks. Strawberries and raspberries are sprayed with 0.75% colloidal sulfur before and at the end of flowering.

The leaves are sprayed on both sides with sulfur-containing preparations (colloidal sulfur, sulfaride solution). For the prevention and treatment of this disease, the drugs agate 25k, bayzafon, prestige, thiovit jet, bayleton, quadris, kurzat, rovral, skor, topaz, immunocytophyte are used. In the area where plants were damaged by powdery mildew, beets, cucumbers and pumpkins can not be planted earlier than in 3–4 years.

Diseased leaves are removed from plants. The remains of plants must be destroyed, and the soil must be dug up deeply in the fall.

Powdery mildew on cucumbers and photos of the disease

Powdery mildew of cucumber is a very common disease in greenhouses and open ground.

As can be seen in the photo, powdery mildew on cucumbers is expressed in the appearance of a white coating on the leaves, which quickly spreads, as a result of which the leaves become white (as if sprinkled with flour), then dry out and the plants die:

Often small brown spots covered with a whitish-gray coating appear on leaves, young shoots, and sometimes fruits. Gradually they capture the entire leaf, which dries out. Young shoots do not develop. Dampness and cold are not necessary for this disease to appear; in hot and dry weather it spreads just as successfully (and sometimes even more strongly).

How to get rid of powdery mildew on cucumbers: treatments

Saving cucumbers from the spread of powdery mildew is a little easier than saving them from downy mildew. To begin with, regularly carefully inspect your garden plantings and ruthlessly remove any damaged leaves. IN compost pit They should not be thrown away; it is better to burn them.

How to fight powdery mildew on cucumbers to protect the harvest? Spraying with a solution prepared from liquid helps a lot. cow dung with the addition of urea (1 liter of mullein thoroughly mixed in 10 liters warm water and add 1 tbsp. l. urea). The filtered mixture is sprayed from a sprayer onto the leaves on both sides. You can use an infusion of manure only (1 part manure, 3 parts water, infuse for several days, then add the same volume of water, mix and filter). You can add wood ash.

Simple dusting of plants with dry ash can also help - place the ash in a gauze bag and sprinkle the leaves on both sides like powder. For better adhesion, you can first spray them with water.

How else can you treat cucumbers against powdery mildew without using chemicals? A “cocktail” of weeds(plantain, nettle, celandine, coltsfoot, fireweed, wood lice, dandelion). To prepare it, all the listed weeds are finely chopped, placed in a bucket (about half the volume) and filled with a small amount of hot water. Everything is ground, 1 teaspoon of urea is added, the same amount of liquid soap or potassium permanganate solution (1 g of dry matter), and then added with water to 10 liters and mixed thoroughly. Spraying can be done several times at weekly intervals. You can also use whey spraying.

The pathogen is afraid of powdery mildew and fine sulfur powder. Pollination is done through three-layer gauze on a dry, hot day, after which the greenhouse or bed must be closed for 2–3 hours.

To treat powdery mildew on cucumbers, the spores in the soil can be treated with horsetail decoction (1 kg of fresh or 100 g of dried horsetail per 10 liters of water, first leave for 24 hours, then boil for 2 hours, cool, strain and dilute with water 1 :5). You can spray both the soil and young plants. A decoction of tansy is prepared in the same way (300 g fresh or 30 g dry per 10 liters of water), but it is more poisonous, so care should be taken when working with the resulting solution.

Even if you know how to get rid of powdery mildew on cucumbers, do not forget about preventive measures against the disease: for this purpose, crop rotation is carried out; deep autumn digging; removal of affected leaves, plant debris and weeds; maintaining a temperature of 20–25 °C and optimal humidity in greenhouses.

How to fight and how to treat cucumbers against powdery mildew?

When the first signs of powdery plaque appear on the leaves, they must be sprinkled with mullein solution: for 10 liters of warm (25 °C) water, take 1 liter of liquid mullein and 1 tbsp. spoon of urea. The solution should be stirred well, filtered and sprayed on the leaves in the morning in warm weather. Leaves should be sprayed from both the bottom and top sides. Pollinating plants with finely ground sulfur helps. To do this, pour sulfur into a bag of three-layer gauze and pollinate the plants during the day in sunny weather at an air temperature of 23–28 °C. When processing in a greenhouse, it is necessary to close the windows and doors, and cover the cucumbers in the garden in the open ground with film for 2 hours. A good result is obtained by spraying plants with a solution of potassium permanganate (1.5 g per 10 liters of water). Effective method combating powdery mildew - spraying plants with colloidal sulfur - 40 g of the drug per 10 liters of water. In this case, the treatment is carried out in cloudy weather.

A more reliable means of combating powdery mildew on cucumbers is spraying with Topaz. To do this, take 1 ampoule (2 ml), dilute it in 10 liters of water (room temperature), stir and pour into a sprayer with a fine spray. Spraying is carried out both when the first signs of the disease appear and for prevention. Spray cucumbers 2 times. The first spraying is carried out when 8-10 true leaves appear, the second - at the beginning of flowering (about 10-12 days after the first). Cucumbers are processed both in film greenhouses and in open ground in calm, windless weather, preferably in the morning, evenly wetting the leaves. You can spray plants with a solution of the drug “Hom” - 40 g of powder is diluted in 10 liters of water and sprayed at the rate of 1 liter of solution per 10 m2.

To prevent disease, it is also necessary to keep the garden clean and fertilize in a timely manner (potassium and phosphorus fertilizers increase the resistance of plants).

It is worth remembering that when sowing or planting cucumbers annually in the same bed, the pathogens of this disease accumulate on it. They spread quickly when the temperature drops and watering occurs. cold water. The disease can spread from weeds, flowers, etc.

Powdery mildew on currants and gooseberries (with photo)

The disease on currants and gooseberries manifests itself in the form of a white coating on the ends of young shoots, leaves and berries.

As you can see in the photo, powdery mildew of currants and gooseberries gradually forms an increasingly dense coating, similar to felt:

The berries stop growing, the shoots turn black and dry out. Powdery mildew spores are easily carried by the wind and germinate on healthy plants at a temperature of 16–23 ° C, thus giving life to a new mycelium.

Pay attention to the photo - with powdery mildew of currants and gooseberries, suckers often appear on the mycelium, through which they receive nutrients from the host plant:

The spores usually ripen only by the spring of the next year, remaining throughout the winter on fallen leaves, shoots and affected berries of gooseberries and currants.

The spread of powdery mildew of gooseberries and currants is facilitated by thickened plantings and wet weather.

Measures to combat powdery mildew on currants and gooseberries

The main measures to combat powdery mildew on currants include, first of all, planting disease-resistant varieties of white (Versailles white, Dutch pink), red currants (Jonheer van Tets, Chulkovskaya, Dutch red). Of course, the list of varieties resistant to powdery mildew is not limited to those listed; every year the list can be replenished with new resistant varieties bred by breeders. After flowering, as soon as the first signs of the disease appear, the plants are sprayed with a solution of soda ash (50 g per 10 liters of water) with the addition of 40 g of laundry soap.

An effective myrrh for combating powdery mildew on gooseberries and currants is the use of ash infusion. To prepare it, take 1/3 of a bucket of ash, fill the bucket with water to the top, boil for 1 hour, cool, filter and spray with this infusion. You can also spray with mullein infusion. To prepare the last 1/3 of a bucket of mullein, pour warm water to the top, leave for 3 days, dilute with 3 buckets of water, filter and spray. These sprays also serve as good foliar feeding. If the disease is severely developed, spraying is repeated after 7-10 days 3-4 times. The latter is allowed to be carried out 5 days before harvest.

How to treat currants and gooseberries against powdery mildew

IN last years distributed so effective and environmentally completely safe method protecting currants from powdery mildew, like spraying the bushes with boiling water in early spring. As soon as the snow melts, and the currant buds have not yet begun to swell, the water is boiled, poured into a watering can and the bushes are evenly and thoroughly poured with this boiling water. One full watering can of boiling water is enough for a large fruit-bearing bush. The bush is sprayed very carefully so that drops of boiling water wet each branch from top to bottom.

The peculiarity of this spraying technique is that the bush should be treated in one go. If not even all the branches get drops of boiling water, then spraying the bush again is unacceptable. The fact is that boiling water, burning and killing pathogenic fungi on the surface of branches, shoots, buds, quickly cools down, giving up its heat. And when you re-treat it with boiling water, the bush will already be warmed up, and high-temperature hot water will easily penetrate inside the buds, burn them, and they will die.

It is important that at the time of spraying the buds on the bushes should not begin to swell and become open. To make this procedure easier and to enhance the effect of the treatment, before spraying, the bush must be tied with twine so that it has a diameter of 60–80 cm. If the bushes have not yet been freed from the autumn tight tying, then, on the contrary, they are somewhat freed.

Spring spraying of bushes and pouring boiling water on the soil under them also kills the pathogens of other diseases, and also has a detrimental effect on pest eggs laid on the surface of the branches.

How else can you treat currants and gooseberries against powdery mildew? personal plot? Both young seedlings and fruit-bearing currant and gooseberry bushes are sprayed in the spring before and after flowering with Topaz (2 ml per 7 liters of water). The third treatment is carried out after the final harvest. 40 g of colloidal sulfur is diluted in 15 liters of water. Use 1.5–2 liters of working solution per large bush.

Powdery mildew on roses and photos of the disease

The disease always affects young tissue. In the upper part of the bushes, a white, powdery coating that gradually turns gray appears on young leaves and shoots with buds. Over time, the plaque thickens, and black dots of the fruiting bodies of the wintering stage of the fungus form in it.

Look at the photo - with powdery mildew on roses, the affected leaves turn brown and dry out prematurely, the shoots become deformed, and the buds often do not open:

The infection persists in plant debris and in the bark of shoots, on which in the spring mycelium grows from overwintered fruiting bodies in the form of rounded, convex spots. Spores form on the mycelium, which re-infect young growing leaves and shoots.

Powdery mildew appears in both wet and dry weather. However best conditions for its development - warm weather and shadow. At the same time, the fungus does not tolerate high temperatures and direct sun rays which turn out to be disastrous for him.

If you do not start fighting powdery mildew in a timely manner, it will cause serious damage to the plant, as a result of which the rose will grow and develop worse, and its appearance will deteriorate.

All types of powdery mildew fungus can only survive on a living plant. On roses, the fungus lives on the buds and stems; in the winter it can spread to some weeds, and in the spring it will again spread from them to the roses. For powdery mildew to develop on roses, an air temperature of 20–25 °C and a humidity of 40–90% are required. If the plant is in the shade, this can also affect the development of the fungus. From the onset of the development of the disease to the appearance of new spores, it usually takes about 2–3 days, and if the weather is unstable, then this period can last 1–1.5 weeks.

To avoid powdery mildew, it is often enough to carry out prevention and control. proper development roses This also makes it easier to fight powdery mildew if the disease does affect the plants.

It develops quickly on plants growing in soils rich in nitrogen, so it is recommended to apply mineral fertilizers in strictly specified quantities. Moreover, it is better to give preference to organic matter.

Also great importance has distance between rose bushes. If you have access to them fresh air, this prevents the appearance of powdery mildew.

Treatment of powdery mildew on roses: effective control measures

It is necessary to regularly remove and destroy diseased parts of plants, and in this way you can not only fight powdery mildew, but also increase the flow of fresh air to all parts of the plants. If the rose bush is severely affected by the disease, then it needs to be dug up and burned - it is better to sacrifice one plant to save all the others.

After destroying parts of roses affected by powdery mildew, spraying is recommended to treat the disease. For this purpose, you can use drugs such as “Skor”, “Fitosporin”, “Baktofit”, “Topaz”. If the first signs of powdery mildew appear on the roses, you need to spray the plants with fungicides containing sulfur, and after 1-2 weeks, repeat the spraying if necessary. Garlic contains a large amount of sulfur, so it should be planted next to rose bushes to prevent the development of powdery mildew. You can also create solutions against powdery mildew at home using squeezed garlic juice. If you spray roses in time, it is easy to prevent the development of powdery mildew, as well as to simplify the fight against it if the fungus does affect the plants.

One more effective measure combat powdery mildew on roses with a solution baking soda, which should be sprayed once a week. Baking soda helps to increase the pH of the surface of the rose leaf, which prevents the development of powdered spores on it. When treating roses with preparations containing sulfur or baking soda, you must make sure that both the top and Bottom part leaves.

To prepare a baking soda solution at home, 1 tsp. soda is diluted in 1 liter of water, and then a few drops of liquid soap are added. Before spraying roses with this solution, you need to make sure that the plant will tolerate such a procedure well. To do this, apply the solution to several leaves and observe them for a couple of days. If there are no changes, you can safely spray the roses.

It is important to promptly prune deformed, affected shoots. At the first symptoms of powdery mildew, spray the plants with one of the preparations: “Vectra”, “Topaz”. If necessary, repeat the treatment, trying to alternate medications. It affects roses in open and closed ground. The disease most often appears in the second half of summer and quickly spreads to neighboring plants. Leaves, shoots and buds become covered with a white powdery coating, curl and dry out. Powdery mildew affects differently different kinds and varieties of roses. Plants with thick, leathery leaves are affected less frequently than those with thin, tender leaves.

In the fall, trim and remove all affected parts of the plants and dig the soil deeply. The bushes are sprayed with chemicals. In early spring (before the leaves bloom), the plants are treated with a solution of copper sulfate (100 g of the drug is diluted in 10 liters of water). At the first signs of the disease, the bushes are treated with the drug “Topaz” (4 ml diluted in 10 liters of water) or the drug “Skor” (2 ml per 10 liters of water). Spraying with “Grey colloidal” (40 g per 5 liters of water) is effective.

Thickened plantings, high humidity, abundant nitrogen fertilization, and lack of lime in the soil contribute to the spread of the disease. In open ground, roses are recommended to be grown in well-lit areas.

Powdery mildew of peas and pumpkin crops

The most severe development of powdery mildew on peas is observed in dry summers.

Leaves and sometimes stems and beans are affected. White appears on the surface of the affected organs powdery plaque. It contains fungal hyphae with conidia. Conidial sporulation is formed several times during the summer. The degree of development of the disease depends on its intensity. Conidia are carried by wind, raindrops and insects.

Powdery mildew on peas looks like on other plants: white coating Over time, it thickens, becomes dirty gray, and the leaves dry out. The disease develops intensively at temperatures of 22–25 °C and air humidity of 60–70%.

The powdery mildew pathogen overwinters on plant debris.

Control measures: destruction of plant residues, early sowing peas It is effective to spray plants when the first signs of powdery mildew appear with Energen: 10 drops per 1 liter of water, solution consumption - 1 liter per 10 m2. Repeat after 10 days.

Powdery mildew of pumpkin crops affects plants in open and closed ground. First, round powdery spots form on the upper side of the leaves, and then on the lower side, which increase and merge over time. The leaves darken and wrinkle. Powdery plaque is nothing more than a mycelium of pathogens. The affected stems remain underdeveloped and the fruits become tasteless. The disease is promoted by temperature changes and heavy dew. The pathogens overwinter on plant debris and weeds.

How to combat powdery mildew on grapes and how to treat the vine for treatment

Powdery mildew of grapes affects the green parts of plants, which become covered with a light gray powdery coating consisting of fungal hyphae. They penetrate the epidermis, and the plant organs (leaves, berries, shoots) stop growing and developing and soon die.

The mycelium is preserved in the eyes of the vine, under their scales, around the primordia of inflorescences. It is difficult to track the moment of infection, but when the first signs are detected - grayish-whitish spots - you should take immediate action and spray the plant with a solution, for example, DNOC (100 g per 10 liters of water). It can be used once every 3 years before the plants bloom.

Before you fight powdery mildew on grapes, remember that this disease produces nine generations during the growing season. Fungi reproduce most actively at temperatures of 25–29 °C and relative humidity air 70–80%. If you treat the mushrooms with ground sulfur in time, you can observe a good effect.

How else can you treat grapes against powdery mildew to preserve the harvest? Fungicides “Strobi”, “Vectra”, “Tilt” and others help well. Prevention includes green operations in the vineyard and the application of phosphorus-potassium fertilizers and microelements.

For the treatment of powdery mildew on grapes and quality preventive measure you can use spraying 3% Bordeaux mixture after flowering.

Controlling powdery mildew on strawberries

The source of infection is strawberry plants infected during the growing season. The fungus overwinters on fallen leaves or infected plants. Favorable conditions for it are high humidity air and large amounts of precipitation.

Signs of defeat. The edges of the leaves are curled; A white coating is observed on the underside of the leaf, and sometimes on the top. Powdery mildew affects the entire plant, but mainly the leaves.

To combat powdery mildew on strawberries, it is necessary to use healthy planting material. It is better to plant plantations in well-lit and ventilated areas. If the plant is still sick, then it is necessary to systematically remove the affected parts. Spraying with colloidal sulfur (70 g per 10 liters of water) or soda ash (50 g per 10 liters of water) before flowering and after harvest helps.

Powdery mildew on flowers and protective measures

Symptoms of powdery mildew on flowers appear soon after the beginning of the growing season. A white, then grayish-white powdery coating appears on the affected organs, consisting of superficially developing mycelium and conidial sporulation of the fungus. The leaves wrinkle and dry out; shoots lag behind in growth, their tops often dry out. When severely damaged, the buds do not bloom.

The pathogen is preserved on plant debris in the form of cleistothecia, less often in the form of mycelium.

The spread of the disease contributes to hot weather, drip moisture and excess nitrogen fertilizers. During the growing season, the disease is spread by conidia, which are easily carried by wind or insects.

The main protective measures are to remove affected and dried leaves. Avoid sharp fluctuations in temperature in the greenhouse, overdrying of plants, and one-sided use of nitrogen fertilizers.

Treatment of affected plants with the following fungicides is also effective: benlat, vectra, topaz, cumulus, thiovit, colloidal sulfur.

Watch the video “Fighting Powdery Mildew” to better understand how to get rid of this fungal disease:

Powdery mildew can occur on many types of plants, both outdoors and indoors. IN room conditions Powdery mildew can be found on roses, gerberas, cineraria, Kalanchoe, begonias, cissus, and violets. The cause of the disease is stagnant, humid air and sharp fluctuations in room temperature.

Powdery mildew spreads when a diseased plant comes into contact with a healthy one, during watering, and is carried by insects or air flow. Treatment of powdery mildew should begin as early as possible.

Causes of powdery mildew on indoor plants

First of all, this is due to stagnant, humid air in the room and sharp temperature fluctuations. The spread of the disease also occurs through contact between the patient and healthy plants, during watering, with air flow, and also when carried by insects.

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The cause of the development of the disease can be excessive use of nitrogen fertilizers, as well as a lack of calcium in combination with high temperature and indoor humidity. At the same time, abundant watering is not at all a reason for the development of powdery mildew.

Signs of damage to indoor plants by powdery mildew

Gradually, the white takes over the stems and other parts indoor plant. Over time, the spots increase in size, the mycelium thickens (becomes felt), the plaque darkens and acquires a brownish color.

It should be noted that flowers can also be affected by downy mildew (downy mildew), external signs which are similar to real underwear. But, unlike real mildew, downy mildew in the form of a coating appears only on the underside of the leaf blade, then the spots turn yellow, increase in size and then acquire a brownish color.

Folk remedies for combating powdery mildew on indoor plants

There are many safe for humans and plants folk remedies from powdery mildew. For example:

• soap-soda solution: dissolve 50 g of soda ash or baking soda and 20 g of liquid or grated soap in 10 liters of water and treat the plants at least twice at intervals of a week;
• whey solution: pour 1 liter of whey into 10 liters of water, stir and apply three times in dry weather with an interval of 3 days;
• kefir solution: stir 1 liter of fermented kefir or yogurt in 10 liters of water and treat the plants three times with an interval of three days;
• decoction horsetail: Pour 100 g of horsetail with one liter of water, leave for a day, boil over low heat for two hours, cool, strain, dilute with water 1:5 and carry out 3-4 treatments at intervals of five days. Undiluted, the decoction is stored in a cool, dark place for about a week;
• mustard solution: dilute 2 tablespoons of mustard powder in 10 liters of warm water and spray or water the plants;
• potassium permanganate solution: dissolve 5 g of potassium permanganate in 10 liters of water. This solution stops the development of the disease and washes away the fungus from the fruit;
• ash solution: add 1 kg to 10 liters of water wood ash, stir, leave for 7 days, carefully drain, dissolve 20 g of liquid or grated soap in the infusion and treat the plants with this composition every other day;
• garlic infusion: 50 g of garlic pulp (crushed cloves and shoots of garlic) are poured with two liters of water, infused for two days and filtered. Use the infusion undiluted;
• infusion of onion peels: 200 g of onion peels are poured into 10 liters of boiling water, infused for two days, filtered and sprayed on the plants before flowering, after it and before leaf fall.

Special chemical preparations for powdery mildew on indoor plants

If powdery mildew appears on your flowers, combating it is most effective with the help of modern fungicidal agents. They have a detrimental effect on the fungus, stop harmful processes in plant cells, protect and treat it. Spraying is carried out 1-4 times with an interval of 7-10 days (depending on the selected drug).

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The most effective drugs from powdery mildew:

• Fundazol;
• Topaz;
• Acrobat MC;
• Previkur;
• Speed;
• Vitaros;
• Amistar extra.

A well-known fungicidal drug is phytosporin, the active ingredient of which is a concentrate of the bacteria Bacillus subtilis in a powder of chalk and humates. Despite the fact that phytosporin is considered a medicinal agent, it is practically useless against existing powdery mildew. However, as a preventive measure, it will work flawlessly.

Prevention of powdery mildew on indoor plants

Like most other plant diseases, powdery mildew is easier to prevent than to cure. Therefore, prevention is the first remedy against such a fungus. And any prevention is, first of all, correct agricultural technology. To minimize the risk of infection you should:

- regularly thin out plantings;
- remove old leaves in contact with the ground;
- water the plants only after upper layer the earth will dry completely;
— do not abuse nitrogen fertilizers;
— carry out phosphorus-potassium fertilizing on time.

Another type of prevention against powdery mildew can be carried out in early spring, before the leaves bloom. Berry bushes and other perennials are simply scalded with boiling water. This must be done quickly, using a watering can with a diffuser. You should pour over all the branches as a whole, without lingering long in one place.

A short-term exposure to very hot water does not have time to harm plants that have not yet fully awakened after winter. But spores, mycelium, as well as pathogens of other diseases, die. A jet of steam under pressure produced using a household steam cleaner has a similar effect.