Is it possible to plant peonies in... Herbaceous and tree peonies - propagation and planting, care in open ground (fertilizer, watering). Which one is better to take a peony seedling?

First of all, we wash the peony root from the shipping peat. We inspect it carefully. We clean the dark soft places down to healthy tissue, if any. We remove as much as possible of the remnants of last year's stems. To prevent root rot, soak the cuttings in a solution of the “Maxim” or “Healthy Earth” preparation for two hours. Moreover, the “spouts” of the buds should be on the surface, and their base and the entire root should be completely immersed in the solution. We take it out and dry it. All cuts, new ones made by you and old ones obtained during division in the nursery, must be covered with cover. You can use “Rannet”, “Biobalsam” paste, garden varnish, etc.

If the soil in the garden has already thawed and the place for planting is ready in the fall, we plant it immediately in a permanent place. We place the division in the hole so that the base of the buds is buried 1–2 cm, no more. The earth will still settle, and the peony buds will be at the optimal depth for them: 3–5 cm. We fill the division with a light soil mixture consisting of garden soil, sand and vermiculite, in a ratio of 3:1:1. Instead of garden soil, especially if the soil in the garden is still damp, you can take ready-made universal soil (“Biosoil”, “Air Biud”, etc.), but then do not add sand. Water it a little and add more soil. Mulch with a layer of 2–3 cm. Suitable mulch is: non-acidic peat, sawdust (remove later), vermiculite, moss. Cover the planting site with spunbond until mid-June. In the future, water once every two weeks, until the end of May, with a solution of Kornevin and Zircon (5 g of Kornevin and 1 ampoule of Zircon per 5 liters of water). In early June and July, carry out preventive spraying with HOM against gray rot.

If boarding is delayed or the place is not ready yet.
I do not recommend keeping the peony in the refrigerator for a long time. Firstly, it can grow strongly there, consuming food from the roots. Secondly, you are missing out on precious spring time for rooting. A polycarbonate greenhouse is also not the best option, as it is too hot on a sunny day. Planting in a container is a classic and proven way to hold a peony until it is planted in a permanent place at the end of August. Choose a container so that the peony section prepared for planting fits freely there; the roots should not touch the walls of the container. It is better to use special technical ones, with large drainage holes at the bottom, with a volume of 3–5 liters.

Add vermiculite or perlite to the prepared universal soil in a 5:1 ratio. When filling in the root, tap the container a little all the time to avoid voids around the division. Deepen the buds by 1 cm. Spill a little. To avoid drying out and strong heating of the soil in the pot, which can negatively affect the rooting of the peony, mulch the top of the pot with light material (1–2 cm layer): perlite, vermiculite, moss. Until the soil thaws, place the container in a bright, cool room (veranda, balcony, loggia). Choose a quiet, slightly shaded place in the garden, dig a trench the size of the pot, fill the bottom with gravel or sand, place the container and fill it with the removed soil. Cover the pile with spunbond, preferably on the arches. Water as the soil in the pot dries out, but not more often. If the weather turns out to be rainy, attach a piece of film in the form of a roof over the spunbond. At least three times before the end of July, water the soil in the pot with Alirina solution (2 tablets per 1 liter of water) to prevent root rot. In mid-June and early July, apply light foliar feeding on the leaves with “Tsitovit” or “NV-101”. The buds that appear must be plucked off as soon as the stem stops growing.

From mid-August you can already plant peonies in a permanent place. From the level at which the peonies grew in the container, they should be buried no more than 2–3 cm.

What you will need:
- Preparations for root rot: “Maxim” or “Healthy Earth” (“Vitaros”), “Alirin”; from gray rot - “HOM”.
- “Tsitovit”, “NV-101” for fertilizing.
- “Kornevin”, “Zircon” to stimulate root formation.
- “Rannet”, garden varnish or “Biobalsam”.
- Containers according to the size of the peony root. It is better to use special technical ones, with large drainage holes at the bottom, with a volume of 3–5 liters.
- Ready-made universal primer.
- Vermiculite or perlite.
- Labels.

Peony is one of the most beautiful flowering plants in our gardens. A huge palette of colors, a wonderful combination of shades and shapes of buds, will not leave anyone indifferent. Peonies arrived in Europe from Japan and China, where they had been known and grown for a very long time. In the East, these beautiful plants are a symbol of prosperity, wealth and happiness.

In nature, flowers are found high in the mountains, so they are strong, disease-resistant and easy to grow. Learn how to grow peonies in open ground - planting, propagation and plant care, when is the best time for propagation and planting.

Description of the plant

Many types of peonies can reach the age of a turtle and are considered one of the longest-living garden plants. The extreme modesty of peony's care requirements makes it ideal for designing flower beds that are easy to care for.

Genus name Paeonia. Its history dates back more than 2,600 years and begins in ancient China. Peony is one of the oldest plants grown by humans. At first it was planted in gardens for medicinal purposes (in China, the medicinal properties of peony are used to this day), and then they began to be grown for beauty.

So, peony is not only beautiful, but also valuable as a medicinal plant. It helps with:

• dyspepsia;
• gastrointestinal disorders;
• migraine treatment;
• neuroses;
• as a pain reliever;
• has a calming effect.

Botanical description

Leaves	Unpaired, dark green, become yellow, reddish, brown in autumn
Inflorescence	The main decoration of peonies is flowers - simple, semi-double and double. The calyx includes 5 sepals. The diameter of the flower is large, up to 25 cm. The color of the flowers is red, pink, white and their shades. There are yellow peonies (for example, Mlokosevich peonies). There are two-color varieties in which the small inner petals are a different color than the larger outer ones.
Fetus	Multileaf with large black, shiny seeds.
Root system	The underground part is powerful with cone-shaped, thick roots

Seeds of some species can decorate plants in the fall as beautifully as flowers in early summer. Just look at the seeds of the Caucasian peony (Paeonia daurica).

Milky-flowered (the most common) peonies begin to bloom in June. Early varieties begin to bloom at the beginning of the month, followed by mid-early ones. Late peonies bloom in July. These conditions, however, may change slightly and are largely dependent on the weather.

Types and varieties

Among the 33 species of peonies, the majority are perennials, while the rest grow as small shrubs.

Peony has about 35 species, the vast majority of which are herbaceous plants, and only a few are small shrubs. Among the large group we can highlight:

However, in the vast majority of our gardens the Chinese milky-flowered peony (Paeonia lactiflora) is found mainly. This species has the greatest variety of garden hybrid varieties. You can read more in the article about.

Growing peonies - step by step

Peonies are strong plants that decorate gardens for many years, but some aspects of their care need to be paid attention to. These flowers are easy to grow and are recommended even for novice gardeners. Plants are very strong, stable, durable. They can grow in one place for up to 10-15 years, and are not very demanding.

Wintering

Most species and varieties are completely resistant to frost and do not need protection. However, in the first year after planting, it is recommended to cover the bush peonies with pine or spruce branches. In subsequent years (up to 4 years), it is advisable to provide protection for more sensitive species from severe frosts (several days at temperatures below -15 ° C). You must remember to remove the cover before new shoots begin to grow.

In winter, snow protects the lower parts of the shoots. Even if the tops freeze, the bushes will grow back after spring pruning. Therefore, it is not advisable to cover adult plants for the winter. This may speed up kidney development. As a result, the flowers will freeze during late spring frosts.

Transfer

Herbaceous peonies, unlike most other perennial plants, do not like to be divided and replanted after several years. They prefer to grow motionless in one place for decades. Then they bloom longer and better.

However, if perennial peonies are replanted, they must be divided. Too large nests of plants grow poorly and hardly bloom.

If there is a decrease in flowering on old plants, despite providing proper care, this is a signal for the need to replant the bush.

Peony transplantation - instructions with photos

Plants need 2-3 years to acclimatize to a new location.

How and when to prune peonies?

Peonies usually do not require any pruning. However, it is recommended to make 2 cuts:

1. Autumn - in late autumn (November, December) shoots are cut off to the first bud. Most of the leaves are removed from the bush.
2. Sanitary pruning in spring. After a cold winter (if the temperature drops below -20 ºC), especially in the case of less resistant varieties, freezing of the upper buds and entire branches may occur. You need to wait until the buds develop (late March, early April) and cut off visible frozen branches. Old bushes that are bare at the base can be rejuvenated. To do this, all branches 30-40 cm above the ground are cut off in the spring.

Cutting flowers and flower buds:

Tall shoots need to be tied to supports so that they do not fall to the ground.

Fertilizer after flowering

Feeding of peonies is limited to the period after flowering. During this time, the plants develop flower buds for next year. On poor, light soils, add compost. Fertilizers should contain as much potassium and less nitrogen as possible:

• potassium increases flowering;
• nitrogen increases susceptibility to fungal diseases.

When feeding bush peonies, avoid applying fresh manure and apply nitrogen fertilizers carefully. Otherwise, the plants become susceptible to diseases and fungi, and next year they bloom poorly and sometimes die.

In the fall, it is worth using mulching with well-decomposed manure (it should be carefully dug into the soil).

Watering

Peonies do not like wet soil. Under normal conditions they do not need watering because their roots reach 2 meters deep into the ground. Only during prolonged droughts do you need to water them. It is better to pour water at the root so as not to wet the flowers or leaves. This can expose plants to the development of pathogenic fungi and molds.

If in the fall, before the onset of frost, the weather is dry, you need to remember to water the plants the day before the onset of frost.

Landing

Landing dates

It is better not to plant peonies in the spring. Seedlings planted in spring must simultaneously take root and expand the root system, as well as supply nutrients to shoots and leaves. In unfavorable weather, this often leads to either the loss of the plant or a poor appearance, and only in the spring of next year the bush regains its decent appearance. But it may happen that we will have to remove most, if not all, of the shoots and wait for new ones to grow. Therefore, it is better to use spring planting as a last resort.

If vegetative seedlings with a whole lump of earth are used when planting, then the spring period will be quite favorable.

In the summer after flowering, you can try to divide the bush and replant the divisions; work is carried out at the turn of August and September.

Important! Replanting peonies requires cold and rainy weather.

Position and soil for planting

Peonies require, with a few exceptions, a location full of sunlight. Thanks to their powerful roots, they tolerate periods of drought well. However, in the first year after planting, watering is necessary during long periods without precipitation. Shrub varieties can be planted in partial shade, preferably where they receive afternoon and evening sun. Peonies need about 5 hours of sun per day to bloom well.

These flowers look best in groups. They do not like the company of other plants, especially tall trees and shrubs.

Attention! Peonies should not be planted under pine trees, as this provokes the development of a common disease - peony rust.

When planting bush peonies, it is necessary to predict that after many years they will turn into tall thickets.

The best soils for peonies:

• humus-clayey;
• well permeable.

This is interesting! Peonies love fertile soil with a pH of 6.5-7.5. Some gardeners add bone meal and lime to the soil when planting if it is acidic.

Must be avoided:

• water stagnation;
• high groundwater level.

Planting stages

1. When planting, prepare a fairly deep hole so that the roots are freely distributed.
2. First, cover half of the roots with soil, lightly tamp the soil, and water.
3. When the ground settles, add the rest of the soil and water again.
4. Trim the above-ground part at a height of 5-10 cm.
5. After planting, it is recommended to distribute a layer of mulch around the plant, which will increase soil moisture.

Planting perennial herbaceous peonies

Planting layout:

• tall varieties require from 80 × 80 cm to 100 × 100 cm for free growth;
• low grade peonies require a feeding area from 60 × 60 cm to 80 × 80 cm.

The soil in the hole and around the planting site is thoroughly loosened. The hole should not be too small - at least 50-60 cm in diameter and no smaller than two shovels.

Soil preparation:

• in the case of low-permeability soil, a drainage layer (gravel, crushed stone) is poured onto the bottom of the pit;
• It is advisable to enrich sandy and poor soils with humus and loamy soil.

The plant is planted deep - the lower buds can be covered with a three-centimeter layer of soil. If the planting is too shallow, the peony will not bloom.

Seedlings need to be watered well.

Planting shrub (tree) peonies

Planting layout: Shrub peonies require, depending on the variety and degree of growth, a feeding area of ​​120 × 120 cm – 150 × 150 cm.

The soil is well loosened at the planting site and around.

Pit dimensions:

• for small seedlings, the pit should have the same dimensions as for perennial peonies (diameter 50-60 cm, depth - 2 shovels);
• for large bushes you need to prepare a hole 1/3 larger than the root ball.

The plant is planted at such a depth that the grafting site is 5-10 cm underground. It is very important that the peony can additionally create its own roots from the scion. If the plant is planted too high, it may dry out after a few years.

A layer of soil of 10-15 cm protects the grafting site from excessive drying, prevents the germination of excessively left stems, facilitates and accelerates the appearance of roots growing from the bottom of the shoots.

There are supporters of oblique planting of peonies, which should promote faster root growth. These roots are long enough to reach even low-lying water.

After planting, peonies need to be watered well. Poor soil is enriched in the same way as when planting perennial peonies.

Mycorrhization of roots

When planting, it is worth using mycorrhization of peony roots. Grafting a plant with mycelium strains has positive effects:

1. leads to better peony development;
2. facilitates the absorption of water and nutrients through the roots;
3. the plant becomes more resistant to diseases.

The procedure is carried out once in the life of a peony. If the plants were obtained by dividing large bushes and were not mycorrhized, such an operation can be carried out independently. Suitable preparations are available in garden stores. Such planting should ensure the correct further development of the plant, a pleasant appearance and abundant flowering. For peony, the drug Bio-mycorrhiza is suitable. Instructions for use can be read on the packaging. The amount of mycorrhiza solution depends on the size of the planting hole.

Care after landing

In the initial period after planting, regular weeding and watering during dry periods are necessary. Watering makes a difference, it lowers the temperature of the ground, which is important for these high altitude plants. It is necessary to water the plant regularly, especially the first 2-3 years after planting. For the winter, it is good to make a mound of earth that will protect the lower shoots from freezing.

In the first year after planting, fertilizers are not applied, because compost, which is quite rich in nutrients, has been added to the pit. Until the spring of next year, you can apply a dose of multicomponent fertilizer.

Photo. Peony shoots in April

Reproduction methods

There are 2 different groups of peonies, which also differ in their method of propagation:

1. Herbaceous peonies change their above-ground part to a new one every spring. They reproduce only by dividing the root ball or by seeds.
2. Shrubs - only lose leaves in winter. Propagation from seedlings obtained by cuttings is possible.

Let's consider the known methods of propagating peonies:

1. root division;
2. vertical layers;
3. stem and root cuttings;
4. sowing seeds.

Propagation by seeds

Propagating peonies from seeds is relatively easy, but is not suitable for impatient gardeners. It will take 5-10 years before a new peony grown from seed produces its first flowers. Some hybrids are completely sterile and do not produce seeds.

Peony seeds very quickly lose their ability to germinate. Especially if they dry out a lot. Seeds that are collected from a plant in the fall and immediately sown germinate better.

The seeds are collected when the leaflets open. In order not to miss this moment, you need to put a pre-prepared bag made of thin agrotextile or nylon stocking on a brownish leaflet and tie it. The seeds are poured into the bag, nothing will be lost. The seeds are collected in August-September, stored in wet sand in winter at 1-5 ° C (you can carefully cut the tip for easier subsequent germination, but this is a risky job because the embryo can be damaged).

The collected seeds are most often sown immediately and watered so that they do not dry out. Rapid sowing is carried out not only because they lose germination, but also because they germinate more easily when their skin is soft.

Dried seeds take a year to hatch. In this case, during the first year after sowing, nothing happens outwardly - no germination, no leaves. Even cutting the skin does not improve the rate of germination. Only next season will the first shoot with leaves appear.

Old seeds also need a period of stratification. And those sown immediately can germinate before winter. You can allow the plant to self-sow.

The photo below shows how long it takes for seedlings to germinate and increase their vegetative mass.

Photo. One-year-old peony sprouts

Photo. Sprouts are 2 years old - you can see how the root mass has increased.

Cuttings

You can get new seedlings from bush peonies by rooting pieces of shoots. Experienced gardeners graft valuable shoots onto a strong peony rootstock. Amateur gardeners can try rooting cuttings or propagating by layering.

Reproduction by vertical layering

We put fairly dense wire rings on the shoots (ah, see picture). You can wrap the wire around all the shoots or around one. We make an earthen embankment (b) higher than the rings are installed. The mound should always be moist, but not wet. After 2 years, we check whether roots have appeared on the shoots above the ring. If so, we cut off the rooted shoot (c) and plant it in a new place.

Dividing the bush

In autumn, when the gardening season slowly comes to an end, peonies accumulate enough energy for the next season. If you need to plant a peony, the best time is autumn. The plant is in a dormant phase and will be able to tolerate division. Separation of older rhizomes is possible only in herbaceous peonies.

Stages of work:

Attention! The correct method of preparing the drug is very important. We pour part of the measure of the drug into a bucket, and pour a little water into it, constantly stirring and crushing the resulting clots, for example, using a wooden stick. Pour in the next portion and repeat. The required amount of water is added only after the drug has completely dissolved, otherwise the powder will not dissolve in water, but will stick to the walls of the bucket.

Dividing rhizomes in the spring is carried out as a last resort, when there is no other way out.

Diseases and pests

Under unfavorable conditions, peonies suffer from certain diseases.

Gray peony mold

During rainy summers, peonies are sometimes affected by gray mold (Botrytis paeoniae). The symptom of the disease is distinct brown spots that appear at the base of young shoots. The shoots grow with discolored red leaves. Flower buds do not develop, and the stems disappear and die. Spots on leaves in humid conditions become covered with a gray coating (optional).

When the first symptoms of the disease are observed, you need to remove all the affected parts and spray the plants several times at weekly intervals with a fungicide - Biosept, Captan, Rural, Sarfun, Sumilex, Bravo.

Gray mold spreads only to above-ground parts of plants. In autumn, it is worth very shortening the shoots of peonies, because spore forms (sclerotia) of the fungus overwinter in them. When transplanting peonies to new locations, the rhizome should be thoroughly cleared of remaining stems and leaves to prevent the spread of infection. If the plants were previously sick, you need to soak the roots for 30 minutes in a solution of Sadoplon 75 or Captan 50 (prepared according to the recipe on the product label).

In the following year, plants that were infected with gray mold the previous year should be sprayed with fungicides at least 3 times every 2 weeks: the first time when the leaves begin to emerge, and the last time just before the start of the flowering season.

When the wet summer period begins, it is worth using systematic spraying of plants with a fungicide.

Powdery mildew

The appearance of powdery mildew on leaves, flower buds and flowers sometimes causes them to become distorted. To protect plants from powdery mildew, you need to ensure good air circulation between plants and a sunny planting location.

Blistering rust of peonies

Symptoms of the disease: Dark leaves have dark purple spots that can be seen around the second half of July. Soon after the spots appear, brown vesicular tubercles (pustules) appear on the underside of the leaf. Fungal spores ripen in them and spill out from bursting bags. Numerous spots cover large areas of the leaf. Severely infected leaves curl, dry out and die prematurely.

Cause: Cronarium flaccidum is the culprit. This is a rust dioecious fungus with a full development cycle. The intermediate host of the fungus is pine. On plants it produces urediniospores, teliospores and basidiospores. The fungus is transferred to Scots pine using basiliphora. On pine, this pathogen produces pycnospores and then echospores. When he releases the echospores from the bubbles on the pine bark, they again move towards the peony, hitting it.

Agrotechnical protection: in the fall, cut off the stems and destroy them by burning. Peonies should not be planted in close proximity to pine trees where rust could potentially occur.

Chemical protection: when rust is detected, plants are sprayed every 7-10 days with preparations of your choice: Sarfun 500 SC at 0.1%, Domark 100 EC at 0.05%, Penncozeb 80 WP at a concentration of 0.2%, Bumper 250 EC at a concentration 0.05%, Amistar 250 SC at a concentration of 0.05-1%.

Pests

Peonies are attacked by some pests.

Golden bronze

Symptoms: damaged petals on peony flowers. The pest also feeds on elderberry flowers, rowan and hawthorn.

Cause: beetle from the lamellar beetle family (Scarabaeidae). These insects are 15-20 mm long. The shell is golden-green with white small dots. In May, bronze beetles begin to eat plants and peony buds; they usually feed until the end of July, sometimes in August. After eating, females lay eggs in the soil.

The larvae feed on decaying plant debris and develop in the rotten remains of trees and shrubs, usually in above-ground and underground parts. At the end of summer they pupate in cocoons. In the fall, beetles appear and spend the winter.

Agrotechnical protection: manual collection of beetles sitting on buds and flowers.

Chemical protection: when there are a lot of beetles, use Decis 2.5 EC spray at a concentration of 0.05%.

Note: Only control very large numbers of pests when plant damage is high. The larvae live in the substrate, feeding on heavily decayed wood and leaves, which helps create compost. Therefore, bronze is useful.

Aphid

If ants are noticed on the peony, it’s worth taking a closer look to see if aphids have appeared. The ants themselves do not threaten peony buds. They are attracted to the sweet secretion produced by aphids - the ants feed on molasses. Aphids suck the juices of peonies. When it multiplies too much, its activity can cause the buds to dry out and the peony will not bloom that season. Foraging aphids secrete copious amounts of sticky honeydew, on which fungus grows (a black coating appears). Fungi, covering the surface of the leaf, limit the process of photosynthesis and prevent gas exchange.

While there are few aphids, you can spray the plant with a solution of soapy water (1 teaspoon per 1 liter of water). If the pests have multiplied too much, you will have to use chemicals. Insecticides used: Confidor 200 SL, Sumi-Alpha (also destroys thrips). Spraying with the last two agents must be repeated after 7-10 days, because the next generation of aphids will be hatched at this time.

Why don't peonies bloom?

Below are the reasons why a peony does not bloom and what to do.

1. The soil is too poor. Peonies should be planted in permeable but fertile, moderately moist soils. Drying of flower buds occurs on plants planted on sandy soils that are too dry and poor.
2. Lack of water during the flowering period. By the time of flowering, especially during drought, flowers need quite intensive watering, since a lack of water leads to the drying out of flower buds. If there was an abundance of water in the soil, this cause can be ruled out.
3. Incorrect feeding. The reason for little flowering or complete absence of flowers on weaker soils is insufficient mineral or excessive nitrogen fertilizer. Since peonies, due to the huge mass of leaves that grow every year, are quite voracious plants in nutrients, in the spring they should be fertilized with an inorganic compound fertilizer with microelements, and immediately before flowering, you can additionally apply fertilizers for flowering plants containing increased doses of potassium.
4. Gray mold. Due to heavy rains and wet weather, peonies may bloom poorly, although they set many buds 0.5 cm in diameter, they become brown or blackened. The reason is gray mold. Most often, plants overfed with nitrogen become infected with this disease - such bushes have very large, intensely dark green leaves that are soft to the touch. In wet years, plants should be sprayed with a fungicide every 7-10 days (detailed information can be found on the label of each product). If the summer is sunny and dry, it is enough to remove diseased and rotting parts of plants.

Use in landscape design

Peonies love individual positions, but sometimes they can be combined with other plants in flower beds. They look great with:

• irises;
• daylilies;
• sage.

You can use them to decorate the borders of paths, lawns, and plant them in the center of flower beds.

When planning to plant a peony in the garden, it is worth knowing that the plants love daytime sun, so the best position for them will be on the western side of the garden. Flowers should be planted in large groups on lawns. They will create clumps of lush greenery, breaking up the monotony of the grass.

How to keep peonies in a vase for a long time?

Peonies are a decoration for any garden, standing out among other plants for their size and unusual beauty. Also, a cut flower in a vase will decorate the apartment, filling it with a pleasant, unique aroma.

In order for flowers to please the eye and smell for as long as possible, you should follow a few tips:

1. shoots should be cut a few centimeters from the ground so that a few leaves remain on them;
2. the flower buds of a cut flower should not be more than half developed, or even better when they are less open;
3. stems with closed flowers cannot open in a vase, and highly developed stems quickly fall off;
4. shoots should be placed freely in the vase so that the leaves do not submerge in water;
5. the water in the vase must be replaced daily - to avoid heat shock, the water must be at ambient temperature;
6. you can add a little sugar to the water;
7. with each change of water, the stems are shortened by about 2-3 cm with a sharp knife, which does not tear the tissue and leaves a smooth cut surface;
8. the best water temperature for cut flowers is about 40 degrees Celsius, it contains less oxygen, due to which the flowers slow down the process of withering (aging);
9. Flowers in warm rooms cost less than in cold rooms.

• Double species do not bloom very profusely; simple and semi-double species are full of flowers.
• The flowers of young plants have few petals, even in double varieties. Only after a few years do they reveal all their beauty.
• If you buy a seedling in a pot, you need to look carefully at the plant and the place where the grafting was carried out - usually this is some kind of thickening. Many growers plant herbaceous perennial peonies in pots and then graft them. In this case, the grafting site is above ground level. This plant needs to be planted deep. When the seedling is pulled out of the pot, it is planted deeper than it grew in the pot, deepening the grafting site.

Conclusion

Peony is one of the most popular flowers. It creates very picturesque bushes, reaching about 1 meter in height, with large flowers up to 20 cm in diameter, with a pleasant aroma. The type of soil, planting method and depth, as well as the care and cultivation measures applied (draining the site, fertilizing, watering, staking, pest and disease control) are crucial in growing the plant and affect its flowering. With a relatively small amount of work and proper care, these flowers will decorate the garden for many years.

Preface

Peonies are beautiful plants that can decorate any flower bed! But in order to grow healthy and lush flowers, it is necessary to provide them with competent care, which is what it consists of - in the article.

Autumn or spring: features of planting at different times of the year

Experts recommend carrying out all garden work on planting and replanting peonies in the fall. The root system of bushes becomes stronger over the summer, by the end of the season it goes into a dormant state and reacts to any actions with it more adequately than at other times of the year.

It takes longer for peonies to take root in the spring, as a result of which their flowering is delayed, it may not be as bright, and the plants themselves are more prone to diseases. However, it should be taken into account that the period from April to May is the same full-fledged period of regrowth of suction roots as August-September, therefore, subject to planting rules and proper subsequent care, gardeners have the right to count on a future beautiful flower garden of peonies planted in the spring . An additional argument in favor of spring work is the opportunity not to wait for autumn if planting material was purchased in winter or early spring.

Types of flowers

There are quite a large number of classifications of pions. The most common of them in origin and form.

Tree-like

Sino-European:

Japanese:

Herbaceous

Peony evasive (Maryin root):

Pion Mlokosevich:

Hybrids: intersectional or ITO

Choosing the right timing for spring planting

It is recommended to plant peonies in the spring months taking into account that the plants have a reserve of time to take root, that is, immediately after the snow grows, without waiting for stable positive weather. The optimal months for such gardening events in central Russia are April-May. For warm and cold regions, these dates shift accordingly.

The 2018 lunar calendar considers the following days to be successful for planting:

• February - 16, 18;
• March - 1, 15, 16;
• April - 25–27;
• May - 18–20, 27.

General principles and rules

Planting options can be divided into two groups:

1. Depending on weather conditions:
   • in open ground;
   • in a container with subsequent transplantation into open ground.
2. By method of reproduction:
   • dividing the bush - one of the most common options, possible from 5-7 years;
   • bush pruning;
   • root cuttings with a bud - used to obtain a large amount of planting material;
   • stem cuttings - a complex method that is not suitable for propagating most hybrids;
   • layering - a simple option, suitable for bushes from 5-8 years old;
   • seeds - a labor-intensive method, used mainly by breeders.

Important stage: choosing a location and preparing the land

For the successful growth and development of peonies, it is necessary to choose the right place for the flower bed and prepare the soil. Peonies are light-loving plants that do not tolerate strong drafts. The best place for them on your site will be the eastern part, preferably slightly elevated to avoid stagnation of water, at least at a relative distance from trees and buildings.

An important condition for these flowers is to plant them in soil with a moderate level of acidity, to regulate which you can add wood ash or sand to the soil.

Planting peony seedlings in open ground

There are several options for such planting work. If you already have ready-made sections, then the stages of work will be as follows:

1 – drainage layer, 2 – nutrient layer, 3 – top layer, 4 – seedling planting depth level

When using this method of planting peonies in open ground, pay attention to the quality of the planting material, since a correctly selected seedling is the key to a future beautiful flower. When purchasing a cutting in a store or market, examine it carefully for the presence of 2-3 renewal buds and at least 2 adventitious roots, the length of which should be at least 5 cm. The seedling must be whole and healthy, not wet and not too dry, without growths and nodes.

Spring planting of peony divisions in holes prepared in the fall (video)

Reproduction of peonies in spring

If you are going to plant your own peonies in the spring, then it is also worth considering several of the most common methods.

Reproduction by pruning

1. Dig the plant to a depth of 6-8 cm.
2. Using a sharp shovel, cut the bush horizontally.
3. Divide into pieces.
4. Plant in a separate bed and then transplant to a permanent place.
5. Sprinkle the roots with wood ash and cover with soil.

Planting root cuttings

This propagation method is suitable for varieties bred on the basis of the officinalis peony. Produced in March-April.

1. We dig up the rhizome of the plant.
2. We cut off adventitious roots whose thickness is more than 1 cm.
3. Divide the pieces into pieces 5-7 cm long.
4. We plant to a depth of 4-5 cm.
5. Water well.
6. With this planting option, the buds of the seedling will be formed within 2-4 years.

Propagation by stem cuttings

You can begin such gardening work approximately 2 weeks before the peony begins to bloom, that is, in mid-May, early in the morning.

1. We cut off a strong shoot near the root collar that is not inclined to flower.
2. We treat the cut with wood ash or coal.
3. We shorten the cutting to a height of 9-10 cm, cutting off its upper part.
4. We plant it with the end down in a hole 4-5 cm deep in moist soil in a greenhouse or greenhouse.
5. We regularly ventilate the plant and spray it 2 times a day.
6. When obvious rooting occurs, the greenhouse is removed.

By layering

Such propagation of peonies is possible by two types of layering: ordinary and air.

Regular layering begins in late spring. The outermost shoots of the peony are tilted towards holes dug in advance in the ground about 15 cm deep, the tops are secured in the holes, they are covered with soil, which includes humus, and watered abundantly.

Reproduction of tree peony in spring by layering (video)

An excellent option for propagating tall peonies is the Chinese method of air layering, which should be started 2-4 weeks before the flowers appear.

1. We choose a bush whose age is between 5 and 8 years.
2. We put on a box or box without a bottom, the dimensions of which depend on the size of the bush.
3. Pour a soil mixture consisting of humus, garden soil and sand into the box to a height of 10-11 cm.
4. Water generously.
5. As new shoots grow, we add soil mixture with natural or mineral fertilizers.
6. In the fall, we remove the box, cut off new shoots with buds and send them for growing.

Seeds

When choosing this method of planting peonies, you should consider a number of features:

• peony seeds have extremely low germination;
• Their enzymatic activity is at the same level, that is, even healthy seeds will have to wait about 2 years for germination, if you do not resort to additional measures (stratification);
• It is unlikely to obtain plants with outstanding decorative properties.

Transplanting peonies in spring (video)

Features of planting various types

There are no fundamental differences in the stages of planting peonies of different types, except perhaps in the depths of the holes for planting low- and tall varieties, but even if you purchased a very long section of some exotic peony, then there is no need to dig a huge hole, just place the seedling at an angle , it will grow just fine.

However, when purchasing planting material, you should carefully study the information about it. It is quite possible that the conditions of the region where you live simply will not suit him. This is especially true for intersectional hybrids.

In addition, soberly assess the landscape capabilities of your site, check whether certain peonies will fit into its appearance. It is also worth reading the reviews of those who have already planted the variety you like. Sometimes, in pursuit of particularly outstanding, for example, double flowers, gardeners are disappointed that the stems are not able to withstand such heavy buds falling to the ground, losing the much-anticipated showiness of the bush.

Care after work

Caring for the future bush immediately after planting consists of abundant watering and, if desired, mulching. Later, additional fertilizing and fertilizing may be necessary.

Important. Sometimes a seedling does not absorb the water with which it is watered. Try providing some shade by covering it with a mesh waste basket. Keep in mind that the best water for watering peonies is rainwater, especially if the water supply in your region is very hard.

What to feed

During the first few years, the plant will have enough of the substances that you added when preparing the hole for planting. After the plant has fully developed, the peony's requirements will increase.

Feeding stages:

• In April - mid-May, when the plant is growing green mass, it is necessary to apply about 50 g of nitrogen-containing fertilizers;
• At the end of May, phosphorus and potassium are added during budding; in addition, you can use a solution of mullein, which is prepared in advance. To do this, dilute a bucket of manure in six buckets of water and leave it for 10 days to ferment, while the mixture needs to be stirred once a day. Before applying the solution under the bush, dilute it with water.

Much attention is paid to foliar feeding of peonies, which is carried out in the second year after planting. This method must be carried out in calm weather using a sprayer. It includes several stages, the interval between which should be about two weeks:

• The first stage is carried out immediately after the appearance of the “green part” of the plant - treatment with a urea solution;
• The second stage is after 14 days, and one tablet of microelements is added to the urea;
• For the third spraying, use 2 tablets of microelements, which are dissolved in a 10-liter bucket of water, and Heteroauxin is used to stimulate the growth of the root system. Weak buds in the first two years of life should be removed with garden shears, because they will interfere with the growth of roots.

Organic and mineral nutrition

The third year of a flower's life is marked by colorful and abundant flowering and splendor. This means it’s time to use mineral fertilizers, the amount of which depends on the weather: in dry times the amount of fertilizing is reduced, in rainy times it increases. Stages of work:

1. Use of nitrogen-potassium fertilizers - 15 g of potassium and 10 g of nitrogen are enough for one bush. Fertilizers should be carefully applied around the flower while the snow is melting;
2. At the second stage, phosphorus fertilizers are added. The flowers are fed while the buds are setting - in no case should this stage be skipped, because it is important for obtaining luxurious bright flowers;
3. The third stage is carried out two weeks after the end of flowering. Fertilizers for peonies at this time are needed to grow healthy renewal buds, which increase the frost resistance of the bushes.

Considerable importance is also given to organic fertilizers, which are required for the formation of buds. To prepare them, use fresh mullein diluted in water. This mixture is infused for 10 days, after which it is applied to each plant. It is very important here that the solution does not get on the root collar, which can lead to “burns.” “Organics” are added only once a season - during budding. Do not forget that it is important to combine fertilizing and watering the plants, because peonies require a lot of liquid to absorb them.

Peonies blooming is a magnificent sight. This is the final point, indicating that spring has finally come into its own. However, it happens that herbaceous perennials, after planting, make you wait a long time for the first buds. One of the reasons for this phenomenon may be the time of planting. Like all perennial crops, peonies take root best when rooted in the fall. But in the spring, planting young bushes is also allowed. It is spring planting that leaves an imprint on further development and, accordingly, the timing of flowering. Knowing when to plant peonies, you can easily grow strong, healthy bushes and speed up the appearance of buds.

Benefits of autumn planting peonies

With the arrival of the first warm weather, peonies in the garden begin to actively increase their leaf mass. In addition, before the end of summer they form buds, which will produce new leaves and buds in the spring. Then, with the first signs of autumn, the bushes freeze and all growth processes stop. This is the time that is most favorable for the propagation of peonies.

It is necessary to start no earlier than the end of August, but no later than mid-September. Earlier planting may not produce results - the bush simply will not take root in the heat. Peonies planted too late will also not have time to take root and will die.

• successful rooting of cuttings over the winter;
• build up a good root system for peonies for the next season;
• get stronger and more resilient bushes;
• bring flowering closer (perhaps next spring).

With the arrival of spring, peonies planted in the fall begin to grow more actively and faster than their “comrades” who have just settled. Accordingly, the plants turn out to be more developed, which means they are quite ready to bloom.

When to plant peonies in spring?

Sometimes it is possible to purchase the desired variety of flowers only in the spring. However, this should not stop, because even then peonies are quite capable of taking root. The only thing that needs to be taken into account is that the cuttings need to be planted as early as possible, while it is still cool outside. It is optimal if it is the month of April, but not later than the beginning of May. Until hot days arrive, peonies have a chance to take root safely. In addition, they will be able to evenly grow both the above-ground part and the root system.

One of the disadvantages of spring planting is the delay in flowering. Such bushes will be able to show their buds only next year, or even later.

It happens that the purchased bush turns out to be quite old and is in a hurry to throw away the inflorescences. In this case, it is better to stop him. The bud should be cut so that it does not take away the strength needed for rooting.

There are a lot of beautiful flowers, but among them I especially want to highlight peonies. Genuine beauty, brightness, richness of colors, elegant shape, pleasant aroma... All these qualities characterize this plant. If you are in doubt whether you should plant it on your plot of a private house or in your country house, then do not hesitate! You will definitely fall in love with this beautiful flower when it graces your garden with lush color. The most popular way to propagate a flower is by dividing the bush; you can get divisions yourself if you grow the plant in your garden or buy it. This article will tell you how and when to plant a peony seedling in the spring.

Peony planting dates in spring

The optimal time for planting a peony seedling in the spring - the moment the roots grow, usually occurs in April and May, so it is advisable to carry out the procedure at this time.

How to choose peony seedlings

When choosing peonies for planting, it is important to pay enough attention to inspecting the root system. The number of renewal buds should vary from 2 to 3. It may be possible to root flowers that have one or two buds, but their development will be slow. Adventitious roots will be needed 5 centimeters long and in quantity of at least two pieces. The bulbs must be healthy and strong, without wounds or signs of disease. The latter include mold, thickening, growths and formations.

You should not take dried seedlings with already blackened buds - naturally, they will not survive any planting, and even growth stimulants will not help them. It is also not recommended to take exotic blue or black peonies - such species do not exist either in nature or from breeders, and therefore will turn out to be a fake. Finally, it makes sense to avoid too low prices - they usually hide defects. Whether the peony will be able to take root in a new place in the spring can be determined by the state of the root system.

If the earthen lump is covered with white roots, then everything is in order.

The following information should be checked on the packaging: name of the variety, brief description of the crop, amount of planting material, instructions and quality control mark. After checking the packaging, it is necessary to evaluate the condition of the piece. Usually this is not particularly difficult, since peonies are sold in transparent bags. You should not buy peonies if the cutting seems too dry or wet to the touch, the packaging smells unpleasant, or there is a suspicion of infection with cancer or root nematode.

The optimal place and soil for planting peonies in spring

When a peony grows in a brightly lit place, its flowers are large and have a magnificent rich color. A little natural shading at noon is not harmful. But strong is abnormal and uncomfortable for him. It cannot go away without problems and sometimes leads to a complete lack of budding, sometimes even to the death of the plant.

But in relation to soils, peony is quite unpretentious, although it does not like acidic soils. By the way! It should be noted that the most remarkable decorative effect is achieved when the peony grows on cultivated soil or loam (soil with a high clay content and a significant amount of sand), which is capable of receiving and retaining water well. If you are planning to plant a peony near groundwater, then you should not allow its level at the planting site to cross the mark of 0.5-0.7 m from the surface. This is fraught with rotting of the roots of the plant, and consequently, the death of the bush. In such cases, it is necessary to raise the flower beds higher by adding soil.

How to plant peonies in spring

If spring is already in full swing, it’s the end of April or the first half of May, and you bought peonies, try planting them as in the fall, but deeper.

When planting in spring, about 20% of healthy seedlings do not take root. In capricious varieties this percentage is even higher.

• To begin, dig a planting hole measuring 60x60 cm (it is advisable to do this in advance so that the earth has time to settle).
• Place 10-15 cm of drainage at the bottom of the hole, which can be expanded clay, broken brick, coarse sand, sand-gravel mixture, etc.
• Pour half of the dug fertile soil, 1-2 buckets of compost or humus, 200 g of superphosphate and 300-400 g of ash into the hole, mix.
• Place a mound of fertile soil in the center of the hole and place a division, distributing the roots.
• Fill the peony seedling so that at least 7 cm remains to the surface, carefully compact the soil with your hands.
• Fill the hole with a bucket of cool water, add more soil if necessary and mulch with peat.
• At first, water the peonies so often that the soil in the hole does not dry out.

Caring for peonies in spring

At first, peonies need to be watered every day so that they take root faster. Otherwise, care is the same as for autumn planting. And although it is believed that “spring” peonies may be slightly behind in growth compared to those planted in September, with timely watering, fertilizing and weeding, you can grow magnificent and healthy bushes.

Over the summer and autumn, the peony should take root and its roots should develop well. If the roots develop poorly, the apical buds will freeze in winter. However, the plant will recover very quickly and begin to grow.

Peony diseases

Most often, peonies are affected by fungal and viral diseases. Among the ailments caused by fungi, the most widespread are gray rot, rust and various types of spots (Figure 1).

Viral infections are represented by tobacco rattle, strawberry ringspot, raspberry ringspot, cucumber mosaic and alfalfa mosaic.

Note: As a rule, flowers are not affected by any one virus. Most often, a mixed viral infection is observed, which complicates treatment.

The main reason for the development of fungi is high air humidity. Thus, crops are affected by gray mold in cold, rainy weather in spring and summer. But humid, warm weather promotes the development of rust. Factors that increase the risk of fungal diseases are also excess nitrogen in the soil and significant shading of plantings.

Viral diseases affect crops regardless of weather conditions. They can be transmitted from other vegetable and fruit crops such as tobacco, cucumber, raspberries through shared garden tools, soil contact and spread by insects.

Any ailments of garden crops can be identified from a photo, and, accordingly, treatment can begin depending on the type of pathology and its characteristics.

The peony will bloom in 2-5 years. It all depends on the quality of the seedling, proper planting and plant variety. Terry varieties take a long time to form a bush, and they have to wait a long time for flowering. The Mountain and Rock tree peonies bloom the fastest. They are unpretentious and suitable for beginner gardeners.