Is it possible to spray a Christmas tree? Karyopteris - there is nothing simpler and more beautiful. If the needles turn yellow in April-May

It rarely happens that the summer resident is not at fault in this case - as a rule, the owner of the site himself made mistakes for which the plants pay.

Why do conifers turn yellow in spring?

Take a look at the list of these erroneous activities and check the boxes that correspond to your actions:

1. When landing it was added to landing hole a large number of(more than 30-50 g) of mineral fertilizers, and the roots were in contact with granules in the soil.


2. After planting, regular watering of the plants was not provided during the season (“planted, watered and forgot”).


3. Pre-winter moisture-recharging irrigation (before the onset of frost), which is vital for coniferous plants, was not carried out, which would have ensured good turgor (filling with moisture) of the needles.


4. Sufficient shading of the needles for the winter was not carried out. The fact is that in February or early spring the sun causes the needles to evaporate moisture, and the roots, located in frozen ground, are not able to provide this moisture. Plants simply “burn”, unable to protect themselves from bright rays.


5. Plants were not treated against diseases and pests of pine needles last season and in spring.

What to do if the plants have already turned yellow

If we're talking about about small inclusions yellow needles at the end of February and beginning of March, it is still quite possible to protect the trees with shade materials.

Under no circumstances should you completely wrap plants with lutrasil (spunbond). The material itself weakly retains the sun, while the needles continue to actively evaporate moisture, and the “cocoon” creates a greenhouse effect inside, leading to damping off, burning out and, ultimately, yellowing of the needles. Often, under lutrasil, the plant turns more yellow than when not covered.

To effectively protect individual plants from the sun, use burlap and special shade nets that allow the needles to avoid bright rays and allow them to ventilate.

By the way, you should not completely exclude the use of lutrasil. It can be used to make excellent screens that slightly shade plants but do not accumulate moisture.

The simplest option is to throw fabric over the tree only from the south side and secure it in this position with twine or ordinary office staples right along the branches. The result is that the plant is shaded, but well ventilated.

If the needles turn yellow in April-May

Well, most often this phenomenon is completely reversible and fixable. Do not immediately cut off branches with yellowed needles. Some plants may regrow shoots with young needles (for example, thuja).

Only in cases where the knots have clearly dried out and easily break off with a dry cut, you need to carefully cut them off with a hacksaw or trim them with pruning shears.

So, how can we help the affected conifers?

1. Treat the plants with a mixture of insecticide and fungicide for prevention, because It is difficult for a non-specialist to determine the presence of signs of diseases or pests on a plant.

To do this, add 4 ml of Topaz and 20 ml of Actellik to 10 liters of water (if you don’t find Actellik on sale, you can replace it with Actara or Fufanon). Be sure to add an ampoule of the Zircon drug to the same tank mixture, this excellent stimulant, which will help plants recover.

2. Water your plants deeply, especially if you think you may have overwatered them. mineral fertilizers upon landing. After washing the soil, water the conifers again, adding 1 ampoule of Zircon to the water. IN in this case it is used as a root stimulant.

3. Do not apply any fertilizers either to the roots or to the needles until new shoots appear.

4. In the morning, evening or on cloudy days, spray the crown with plain water.

5. A week after the first treatment, spray the plants with a solution of Epin-Extra preparations (2 ml per 10 liters of water). This is an excellent anti-stress drug that will help the needles recover.

If you are very alkaline water(gives a lot of scale), then add 1 tsp to a bucket of water before diluting Epin. vinegar (the drug Epin is destroyed in an alkaline environment). Spray in cloudy weather or in the morning and evening 2 times a month until the plant is completely restored.

6. Instead of Epin, you can use another adaptogen - the drug HB-101, this solution is sprayed and watered at the root once a week. Use 2 times a month until the tree is completely restored.

7. As soon as the plant has perked up and new shoots have appeared, in May you can feed it using special fertilizers for conifers. In this case, it is better to give preference to liquid and granular preparations with a long duration of action (POKON, AVA).

8. Regularly water and spray conifers, especially young specimens, and do not make mistakes in the future before preparing them for wintering.

Thuja – evergreen, belongs to the cypress order. This ornamental plant, which is used for landscaping gardens and personal plots. To have a beautiful, healthy tree on your site, you need to plant it correctly and provide proper care for the thuja.

Instructions

Thuja seedlings are grown in nurseries, from where they are sold to specialized gardening stores. The seedling is sold in a pot, and when purchasing, you should, if possible, inspect its root, White color which indicates that the seedlings are healthy. Yellow areas of the root indicate that the thuja has been in the pot for more than a year. You should refuse to buy such a seedling.

Thuja loves moist, light soils well saturated with oxygen. This means that the soil into which the seedling will be transplanted must be moist and loose. It is recommended to dig a hole four to five days before planting the tree.

Winter holidays are approaching.

And of course not one New Year One cannot do without the forest beauty of spruce, which brings all children into indescribable delight, and helps adults return for a few days to the distant land of childhood, where fairy tales live and their most cherished desires come true.

Shortly before the New Year, felled Christmas trees appear on sale, but after installing a coniferous tree at home, within a week it begins to crumble, even if it is standing in a bucket of wet sand.

But the holidays last much longer and we want the Christmas tree to please us all this time.

This is really possible if you purchase live Christmas tree in a pot with soil. In Europe, such New Year trees have long become popular, although they are more expensive than cut ones. Here are some tips on how to care for your potted Christmas tree so that it feels comfortable in your home.

Before you finally install the spruce in the room, you need to gradually accustom it to home warmth. To do this, keep it for several days in a cold garage or on glass loggia. But just put the pot on wooden plank, and not on cement.

And in case of frost, it is advisable to wrap the pot with something warm, because... the ground may freeze along with the roots. It is in the ground that it is warm in winter, but in a small pot it can freeze.

When you bring the tree into the room, place it away from heating devices. It is advisable to place an electric humidifier or at least a vessel with water in the room, because... The coniferous beauty needs moist air.

You can decorate the Christmas tree only with the lightest New Year's toys.

Water the Christmas tree in a pot moderately as the soil dries (about 2 times a week), avoiding the substrate from drying out or becoming waterlogged.

It is also necessary to spray the Christmas tree regularly. It is better to use melted water or at least settled water for spraying and irrigation. room temperature.

But even in such conditions, it is not advisable to keep the Christmas tree in the room for more than 3 weeks, because most pine beauty suffers from dry air. Unfortunately, no matter how much we want, a Christmas tree cannot become a houseplant.

It requires cooler temperatures to grow it. bright conditions and moist fresh air.

You can, of course, try to place her on a glassed-in loggia, only if you don’t have sunny side. But still, there are no guarantees that it will take root there. It is better to plant the Christmas tree in the ground on a frost-free day, for example, in the country house or in the yard (if you have your own private house).

When you plant it in the ground, do not go too deep - you need to leave the root collar at the same level as in the pot. When planting, do not disturb the earthen ball under any circumstances; spruce trees do not tolerate transplantation well.

But if you still want to decorate your own Christmas tree every New Year, you can purchase one of the coniferous plants that are easiest to adapt at home.

Such plants are: cypress, thuja, araucaria and some others. For a Christmas tree, give preference to araucaria, as it comes from the subtropics and is also more like a Christmas tree.

In any case, it’s up to you to decide which tree will decorate your home on New Year’s Eve.

More on the topic

Comments

Lera 01/27/2016 14:31

I quote Irina:

I quote Lera:

Hello! This is the situation: on New Year’s Eve we bought a spruce tree in a pot, almost immediately needles began to fall off it, about half fell off, then it stopped and new branches began to grow on the spruce tree. Yesterday we noticed that 5 of the smallest things withered and began to fall off, and the spruce itself again looks very bad, if I may say so... I only read about all the intricacies of care (What can you do with it at the moment? How can you help?

Hello Lera. To prevent the spruce from dying, it must be planted in open ground. I don’t know what region you live in, whether you have severe frosts. You can wait for a little warming (depending on the region) and plant it. Or keep it on a glassed-in balcony until spring, then plant it out. You can spray with Epin or Zircon; they are used in situations that are stressful for the plant.

Thank you very much for your answer! It will not be possible to plant until March-April. That’s why I’m worried about her condition, but I hope for a good outcome and will follow your recommendations.

Sawflies in the photo

Sawflies often eat the needles of pine and spruce trees. The most common are the common and red sawflies.

Common spruce sawfly in the photo

Common spruce sawfly V southern region develops in two generations. In April - May, the larvae often completely eat the needles. At the end of June, the pests finished feeding coniferous trees They make dense cocoons on spruce branches in which they pupate. After 2-3 weeks, second generation sawflies appear and destroy young needles. They overwinter in the soil or in coniferous litter.

Red sawfly pine develops in one generation. It causes damage from the beginning of May, feeding on pine needles and sometimes the bark of young shoots. In August, it lays eggs inside the needles of young pine shoots, where it overwinters.

Green sawfly larvae (false caterpillars), harmful, have 3 dark stripes on the body and a brown head. They damage needles and shoots, eating away internal tissues.

Eating pine needles by larvae reduces the growth of pine trees; weakened trees are colonized by other pests (bark beetles and borers), specialized species that feed on various coniferous species.

Spider mite. This pest on coniferous plants is clearly visible when morning dew. A thin cobweb covers young shoots in groups. The smallest mites (0.3-0.5 mm) move along this web. The sap is sucked out and the needles turn brown. The pest is especially dangerous in dry, hot summers, when it can produce up to 8 generations.

These pests of coniferous plants can also cause premature needle drop.

Adult insects overwinter under bark scales and at the base of needles growing in bunches.

If the needles at the top of the shoots of junipers are enlarged, then this is a sign of damage by the juniper needle mite. Conifers should be treated for pests when the first signs of damage appear.

Pine bug
Pine bug

Pine bug. Bugs found on trees are yellowish or reddish brown, similar in color to pine bark. Their size is from 3 to 5 mm. Bugs and their larvae overwinter in the litter and under the peeling bark at the base of the trunk. In the spring they crawl out of their wintering places and suck the juice from the trunk and shoots.

Pests disrupt the conducting system of plants, which causes yellowing of the needles, decreased growth and general weakening of the tree. At severe damage Young pines develop dry tops, bent trunks, and sometimes the death of the tree.

Aphid. For spruce trees, infestation with this pest is very dangerous. This sucking insect, only 1-2 mm in size, is green in color, so it is difficult to see on the needles. Aphids cause yellowing and falling of needles, often massively.

It is important to detect the pest on twigs and needles as early as possible and carry out a series of insecticide sprayings at intervals of one and a half to two weeks until the aphids are completely destroyed.

You can detect the pest by shaking the twigs over a white sheet of paper. The development of aphids is noted already in May with the appearance of young needles.

Juniper aphids are found on young shoots of juniper. During mass reproduction, young plants can be severely damaged by this pest: growth is delayed, shoots become bent and twisted. Spraying is carried out in the spring, as soon as the pest appears.

Pine aphid- grayish in color, heavily hairy, oblong in shape. Its rows are easy to notice on the needles of Scots or mountain pine. Spraying with insecticides is carried out in April - May.

Mealybug(hermes). This small (up to 4 mm) sucking insect, similar to an aphid, poses a certain danger to. The body of the pest is oval-shaped, yellowish, densely covered with white waxy secretions. In summer, sticky white patches of “cotton wool” form on the needles and young shoots.

This white fluffy coating on the needles of trees and shrubs indicates the presence of Hermes aphids. As a result of feeding on scale insects, the needles turn yellow and fall off. With severe damage, the death of young trees is possible.

Winged individuals of spruce-fir hermes cause curvature of needles in places where aphids feed and their yellowing. At the buds, adult females appear on the bark, and brown or yellowish-green larvae appear on the needles. Spraying with insecticides is carried out in the spring when signs of pest infestation appear.

Adult larvae of scales overwinter on the bark of branches and trunks under scales and in cracks. Several generations are produced per year.

During the winter, many mealybugs die, and therefore there are few of them in the spring. The number of the pest gradually increases over the summer period.

The most dangerous is the juniper mealybug, as well as the mealybug that develops on.

Pine scale insects cause harm in a similar way. Scale insects are hidden under the needles, and therefore are difficult to destroy.

False shield is also very dangerous for. It colonizes twigs and needles. This pest is sprayed with Fufanon or Iskra Double Effect. Spraying of conifers against scale insects and false scale insects is carried out in the spring before the buds open.

Treatments are repeated in the first half of June with an interval of 8-10 days, alternating these drugs with “Zubr” or “Alatar”.

Caterpillars of juniper shoot moth eat the insides of the shoots, severely damage various shapes common juniper. When these coniferous pests are detected, spider nests are collected and sprayed with pesticides to combat them.

pine shoot
pine shoot

pine shoot- small butterfly; Caterpillars harm by gnawing buds, as a result, panicles of needles with resin are formed at the ends of the shoots.

Resin shooter
Resin shooter

Resin shooter- small butterfly; Caterpillars cause damage by gnawing into the bark and forming resinous galls that increase in size. Shoots above the galls become bent and dry out.

Pine silkworm
Pine silkworm

Pine silkworm is a butterfly with a wingspan of up to 7 cm. Its caterpillars pose a danger to coniferous plants. They are brown-gray and reach 7 cm in length. Caterpillars begin to emerge from eggs before bud break and continue to hatch until mid-June; within two months they eat needles and pupate. Butterflies fly out in August and lay eggs (200-600 eggs each). The pest overwinters in the egg stage.

Less often, needles are damaged by moth caterpillars, and cones suffer from tar and moth. When growing pine seedlings, plant death can be caused by May beetles. Both beetles cause damage by eating the needles, and larvae damage the roots.

Protecting conifers from pests: how to treat plants

For successful cultivation conifers on garden plot maximum compliance with the conditions required by the nature of plants is necessary: sunny place, fertilized soil, watering and mulching tree trunk circles peat or pine sawdust. You should not dig up the soil under the plants and rake out fallen pine needles.

When pests appear in the evening, to treat conifers against pests, spray with one of the insecticides (“Iskra Double Effect”, “Iskra Zolotaya” or “Senpai”, “Alatar”). Against spider mite use Fufanon or Iskra-M. The treatment must be carried out in the spring during the period of bud break, repeated at intervals of 10-12 days. Then conduct constant monitoring for possible resumption of pest development.

In the first half of summer conifers fed with special complex mineral fertilizers. Plants respond well to fertilizers containing magnesium (“Kalimagnesia”, “Magnesium sulfate”, “Magbor”, etc.).

In the hottest months of summer (July - August), to protect conifers from pests, it is advisable to wash the needles with water from a hose in the evenings. Removing dust makes plants healthier.

Coniferous trees should be placed on the site so that their crowns do not shade deciduous ones. fruit trees so that the ground under them is not trampled, and the wax coating on the needles is not subject to mechanical damage.

To ensure that a living Christmas tree pleases you with its beauty and aroma for as long as possible, do not rush to bring it into your apartment immediately after purchasing it: due to a sharp temperature change, the needles of a living Christmas tree may fall off.

Keep the live Christmas tree on the balcony for a while. To make the dried needles fall off, knock the Christmas tree on the floor, and only then place it in the room. The best place for the New Year's beauty - away from the battery.

From the trunk of a living Christmas tree, you should saw off the lower part 2-3 cm long or remove the bark from the lower 5-10 cm and place the Christmas tree in a container with water, adding one aspirin tablet, a pinch table salt and a tablespoon of sugar. Aspirin plays the role of an antiseptic that prevents putrefactive bacteria from developing, and salt and sugar serve as food for a living Christmas tree.

There is another way: a live Christmas tree is placed in a bucket of sand and regularly watered with water with aspirin (1/4 tablet per 3 liters of water) or several crystals of potassium permanganate.

Extends the life of the Christmas tree when added to a bucket of water or sand. ready-made fertilizers For indoor plants in accordance with the instructions supplied with them.

How to keep a Christmas tree in a pot

To ensure that the decorated Christmas tree stays in the pot for as long as possible, it is recommended to water and spray it, since coniferous trees suffer the most from dry air. Watering is carried out with water at room temperature as the soil dries and ensures uniform soil moisture. And to increase air humidity, the needles must be sprayed.

Spruce is a tree that overwinters in the cold. It should be installed near ventilated places and as far as possible from heating devices. If the spruce is in a pot in an apartment for a long time, then you cannot immediately take it out into the cold, as it may die. Therefore, it is necessary for the tree to gradually get used to lower temperatures.

After finishing New Year's holidays It is best to take a Christmas tree in a pot to glass balcony, having previously insulated the pot in a circle. For example, wrap him in a blanket or do it in another way. On the balcony the air is more humid, and at temperatures close to zero, a Christmas tree in a pot will not freeze. Optimal values temperatures for coniferous trees in winter range from −5 to +5 degrees.

Those wishing to grow a Christmas tree in an apartment should remember that the tree will not live in a pot for more than 3-4 years. Every year the tree needs to be replanted in a new container, soil and fertilizer, for example, “root”, must be added.

For further development of the root system, it is necessary to increase the size of the container. But it is very difficult to create a water-temperature regime in it that is favorable for the tree, as well as to provide it with the necessary nutrients.

If there is not enough space for the plant’s root system and it is not promptly transplanted into open ground, this may lead to the death of the Christmas tree in the pot.

Small plants are much more likely to take root than older ones. On average, it is 80%, subject to the conditions of maintenance and transplantation.

The most long-awaited holiday is coming - New Year! What does it smell like? Frost and tangerines, fresh pastries and spices, candles and incense. And, of course, a Christmas tree - the most important attribute of the New Year's celebration! What would a holiday be without the aroma of fresh pine needles in the house, so familiar to us since childhood and so beneficial for health.

Living spruce, according to legend, contains an inexhaustible source vital energy, and the spirits living in it protect the home from various evil influences.

If you have chosen a living tree, then you really want to preserve the freshness of the tree and its bright aroma throughout the holidays. How to extend the life of a forest beauty? Here are some tips.

This method is the most effective. Just buy not a cut down tree, but a Christmas tree growing in a special tub, where the roots continue their vital activity. The main condition for its preservation in its original form is to protect forest beauty from heat shock when moving from frost to warm house. This must be done gradually, first by keeping the plant for several days on a glassed-in balcony or veranda. You can replace the Christmas tree with more heat-loving trees like cypress or araucaria.

It is very important to choose the right freshly cut tree.

• To do this, you need to pay attention to the barrel. It’s good if its surface is covered with needles and the cut does not have a wide dark border.
• The freshness of the Christmas tree is evidenced by the elasticity of its branches and the bright, rich green color of the needles. If you rub several needles in your fingers, a strong spruce smell should appear, and the surface of the skin will become oily.
• Try hitting the base of the trunk hard on the ground. If the needles fall off, it means that the tree is no longer fresh and should not be taken.
• It is very good if the crown and tips of the branches remain unharmed during transportation.

Try not to bring the Christmas tree into the warm room, and keep it for several days on a glassed-in veranda or balcony wrapped in paper. There she will pass required acclimatization period.

IN warm room Do not immediately unwrap the forest guest, but allow it to slowly warm up to ambient temperature.

When installing the tree, remove the lower branches (they are perfect for a New Year's wreath or bouquet), clean the trunk by 10–20 cm, be sure to renew the cut area and place the plant in settled water for a couple of days, constantly adding liquid. Then place the tree in a stand with a container filled with wet sand or water. You can also wrap the cleaned part of the trunk with any loose cloth and regularly moisten it with water or a specially prepared solution.

To extend the life of a forest beauty, make its water more nutritious, and also take measures to prevent the proliferation of pathogenic bacteria. Here are some recipes:

• The most famous option is to add a few cubes of refined sugar, an aspirin tablet and a handful of salt to the water. Pour the solution into a prepared container with water or sand.
• Dissolve half a tablespoon of pre-crushed chalk and 5 grams of gelatin and citric acid in 3 liters of water.
• A tree standing in water with several dissolved crystals of potassium permanganate (potassium permanganate) retains its freshness well. The color of the liquid should be bright pink. This composition acts as a microfertilizer, and your Christmas tree can even take root.
• Yours will feel great Christmas decoration, if you add any specialized fertilizer for conifers to the water in a dosage according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
• The nutritional composition can be obtained by mixing a teaspoon of superphosphate, a tablespoon of ammonium nitrate and half a teaspoon of potassium nitrate. This fertilizer needs to be added daily, 1 tablespoon.
• If immediately after cleaning the barrel you lower the tree into a hot solution acetic acid, then the heat will help to further open the pores of the tree, and the essence will protect against pests and preserve the plant.
• You can also put copper coins from Soviet times into the water (perhaps someone else still has them) or simply copper wire. In this case, it would not be amiss to add a few pieces of sugar along with an aspirin tablet.

The liquid must be added as it evaporates so that the purified Bottom part the trunk was constantly under water. The same solutions can be used to regularly moisten sand or fabric.