Installation of siding without a starting strip. Instructions for exterior finishing of a house using siding. Installation of door strips

03.11.2019

The main goal of renovating an old house or building a new building is its modern, aesthetically pleasing interior and appearance. Many owners, choosing from the finishing materials presented on the construction market, give preference to siding. What attracts the attention of not only professionals, but also ordinary consumers? Beautiful appearance of buildings and ease of installation of external cladding.

Siding installation can only be of high quality after carefully studying the technology of the work and following all recommendations. No matter how high the quality finishing material, if the installation technology is violated, the result will be bad.

Making your home warm and beautiful

In addition to high-quality siding, for work you need good tools and additional construction material for the base. First you need to decide whether the walls will be insulated or not? The set of tools and materials depends on this.

Let's prepare the following set:

Smooth, dry wooden strips for installation of sheathing.
Glass wool or polystyrene foam.
Universal hacksaw.
Screwdriver and screws.
Scissors for cutting metal.
Stepladder and rope.
Tape measure and pencil.

Installing the sheathing

It is impossible to cover a house with siding without pre-installed sheathing. There must be an air space between the wall of the house and the cladding material through which air will circulate. Insulation is placed between the planks, which significantly improves the quality of the house’s external cladding.

You can make a crate from good timber with a section of 4 by 5 cm or boards measuring 10 by 3 cm. Initially, select the installation option to decide how to install the sheathing.

Nail the planks at a distance of no more than 40 cm. The corners of the building are covered with lathing on both sides. Door and window openings also need to be padded around the perimeter. Start installing the horizontal sheathing from the bottom of the building, and nail the last beam at the top.

To make your home even warmer, install insulating material. The packages indicate how to lay the material you purchased in order for the effect to be maximum.

Working with guides

Let's consider horizontal version sheathing. Attach the starting strip at the bottom point of the mounted sheathing. When the length of the starting bar is insufficient and there is a need to extend it, the next guide is attached after 7-10 mm.

Proceed with attaching the profiles to the external and internal corners of the building. The lower edge of the installed profiles must cover the starting rail by at least 6 mm.

The shape of the corners will not be disrupted and the profiles will not fall down if the plank is hung on nails through the upper hole.

Use galvanized self-tapping screws to attach the strip to the block. Try to leave a two-millimeter gap between the sheathing slats and the sheathing material. This fastening will help maintain the material’s elasticity, strength and resist sharp gusts of wind.

When you reach the roof, leave room for soffit panels and drainage attachments. When everything is installed, measure and cut the siding, and then start attaching the panels.

Installation of the canvas

You can cut the siding with a universal hacksaw or grinder, or with a jigsaw. At high temperatures siding quickly warms up and begins to expand, so the panels should not be installed too tightly in the grooves of the corner profiles. When you cut the required pieces of panels, immediately subtract one centimeter.

Measurements must be taken after installing each plank and only after that cut the required length of material. Prepared part facing material bend it a little and carefully guide it into the corner guides. At the bottom, the plank is connected to the starting profile, and you will attach its upper part to the sheathing using self-tapping screws. Continue working.

Each next row is connected at the bottom to the previous one and is attached to the sheathing at the top.

Let's learn the intricacies of installation

The panels should not be screwed too tightly or pulled out because of their amazing properties contract at low temperatures and expand when heated. The panels should be installed tightly together without any tension.

Control the installation of siding with a level. There cannot be even a slight deviation here. If this point is violated, the top bar will not be located on a line parallel to the installation of the bottom bar. Markings placed in the corners will help to avoid deviations. You just need to always keep them in mind and focus on their location when attaching each plank.

Before you start installation last bar, nail the finishing strip to the sheathing bar. First of all, connect the pre-measured and cut strip to the previously installed panel. Bend it just a little and place the top edge under the finishing profile.

Joining the planks together along the length requires special attention. Often the length of the plank is simply not enough to cover the entire length of the wall. In this case, you need to use the H-profile. Perfect option for a beautiful, neat, completely invisible connection. When such a profile is not at hand, simply place one bar behind the other at a distance of at least 2 cm.

Try not to join the planks close to the corner. Knowing the size of the house and the length of the purchased siding panels, you can plan the location of the joining seam.

Working with openings

It is not difficult to sheathe a wall without openings, but the presence of windows and doorways makes installation of the material a little more difficult. There are no uniform rules. Each individual case requires its own special approach.

When the windows of a house protrude beyond the wall line, a J-profile is needed. It is installed around the perimeter of the opening. The corners on the side planks are filed at 45 degrees. The connection is made with an overlap. In this case, water will not penetrate under the skin, and the joints will look neat.

For windows recessed into the wall, you need a special strip that will help install the casing and place the strip on the slope.

Particular attention should be paid to cutting out the lower and upper panels of the window opening. In the place where the strip fits the window, you need to make vertical cuts. Bend the excess part of the strip and cut it off. Place it behind the installed J-profile and nail it in the center.

Affordable and practical to use siding today is produced in different color palettes. The material is not at all afraid ultraviolet rays and moisture. It is easy to care for and, if necessary, simply replace damaged strips. These are just some of the great features modern cladding buildings outside.

Do you have a desire to update the appearance of your home or maybe you have already done so? Let's discuss all the questions in the comments to the article.

Video: step-by-step instructions for preparing the facade for siding installation

Today, siding is increasingly being used for cladding buildings. Exterior design the structure of this material makes it possible to ultimately obtain a light, durable, beautiful and not expensive coating, which will reliably protect it from the influence of many factors external environment. Range color range, textures and shapes of siding are wide, which makes it possible to create an individual home design.

Tools used

When installing vinyl siding, you should prepare:

1. Tools:

Bulgarian. Necessary for cutting panels.
Hacksaw(scissors). It will be necessary when cutting small-sized elements, to correct minor defects made when cutting the material with a grinder.
Screwdriver with several nozzles.
Hammer– for fastening the sheathing to the facade of the building.
Hammer.
Roulette.
Level.

2. Fastening material. When fastening the material, you must use self-tapping screws (nails) made of aluminum or galvanized. The length of the nails must exceed 4 cm, and the length of the screws - more than 1.5 cm, with a diameter of their heads of more than 0.9 mm.

When attaching 100 m2 of siding, one thousand screws or nails will be required. Many experts recommend using press washers when fastening, since they better fix the panels to any frame and do not corrode.

Sheathing design and siding fasteners

performed on a wooden or metal sheathing. If you plan to mount it on a wooden sheathing, then the wood must be thoroughly dried. Otherwise, the panel locks may become pinched and free movement will not occur. Also, many panels can jump out of the locks and their parallelism will be disrupted. For metal sheathing regular one is used metallic profile.

Fastening is carried out with self-tapping screws (if the sheathing is made of metal), nails (staples) to wooden sheathing. Nails should go into the wooden sheathing to a depth of 3.5 cm, and staples - to a depth of 20 mm.

Nails driven in at an angle will prevent the panels from moving. Each fastener should be centered in the fastening hole. It is not recommended to press the caps tightly to the surface of the material; a small (1-1.5 mm) gap should be left. Driving fasteners through the panel is prohibited. The pitch of any type of sheathing when horizontal mounting

is 45-50cm, and when attaching the material vertically, the step size is 30-35cm. Additionally, you can make or expand existing mounting holes using a hammer drill.

If you need to follow the rule: start attaching the horizontal panel from the middle, and the vertical panel from the top.

Providing temperature gaps

This operation is carried out regardless of what material the walls of the building are made of. The gap is made for: creation of airspace,
leveling mounting surfaces, since walls rarely have a perfectly flat surface.

The material should not rest against the profiles, so its cutting is carried out taking into account the temperature gap. It will be double if the panel is mounted from one corner to another or from the joining strip to the corner. The gap size is calculated from the average outside temperature and panel length. Siding cannot be installed at temperatures below 10C, as it becomes brittle. The panels tend to elongate by 0.5mm for every 10C increase in temperature.

The size of the temperature gap is mandatory indicated by each manufacturer, depending on the basic composition of the material.

In the instructions, each manufacturer indicates the size of the gap for all components of the structure and the amount of overlap of the joint. The size of the material overflow is always 2.5 cm.

The seam is never sealed. The intersection of the material is done end-to-end. There is no overlap under or above the windows. When joining the material, overlaps should not be noticeable and the same rules apply as when gluing wallpaper. When installing gutters and accessories on the façade of a building, the presence of gaps is also mandatory.

Particular attention should be paid to the installation of the first siding panel so that the installation defect cannot be repeated in the remaining rows.

Setting the starting profile and ebb

It is necessary to install the starting profile, since it is responsible for the reliability and rigidity of the finish. The lathing cannot create rigidity, since its rows run parallel to each other. When two strips are joined in stripes, a figure with right angles is formed. To add rigidity, you can use a metal profile. If rigidity is absent and done incorrectly, installation defects will appear: panels and lock clamps will warp and cracks will form. The starting profile is mounted along the entire perimeter of the building at the very bottom of the horizontal beam. When installing it, the evenness of the fastening is checked with a level. IN further work

this profile will be covered by the first row of siding. You can use not the whole profile, but its pieces. Then you will need to make a 5mm gap between its parts.

The starting profile is mounted where the material approaches the door and windows. – Low tide

This is a vinyl corner profile. The installation of the ebb tide begins with its attachment to the corners.

The technology for its installation includes processing of corners, and for this:
a piece about 50 cm long is cut from the ebb strip;
joints in corners do not require sealing with silicone;
the upper part of the edge is aligned horizontally;
The joining of the ebb strips is done with an overlap.

Under set tide a rigid rail is mounted along the entire length of the base.

Base covering

If the base in the building sinks or is flush with the wall, then installation begins with fastening the starting strip. If the base is protruding, then an ebb is attached under the starting profile to drain water.

The process of attaching the material to the base is carried out from bottom to top. When sheathing the base you must remember:

basement siding is selected, like wall siding, from the same manufacturer;
sheathing is carried out only horizontally before finishing the walls;
the basement is not insulated;
when sheathing, it is necessary to accurately calculate the coating consumption, because there is often an overconsumption of material when performing this operation;
The panels are connected to each other by locks (top and bottom).

Basement siding does not end with the usual J-profile or finish, but with a special base border. It will also be the starting profile for the wall material.

Fastening of facade parts

When forming corners, corner panels are used. They are fastened in such a way that there is overhang on the fasteners. The fastener pitch is 25mm. If necessary, the corner panels are overlapped to prevent water from getting into the joint. Their installation is carried out upon completion of the device starting profile, only before installing the main panels.

When hemming roof overhangs or gables, soffits are used. They are attached before the last row of siding panels is installed. If the roof overhang is more than 60cm, then it needs to be sheathed. The soffits are attached to the sheathing. If the plumb line is smaller, then frame strips are required. The soffits are fastened every 30cm.

The work on edging the doors and windows is done after fixing the corners. For finishing window openings The following profiles apply:

strip near the window;
platband - plank;
hanging bar.

Based on the rules for installing plastic windows, they are mounted to a depth equal to a third of the thickness of the entire wall. For shallow slopes, an angular profile is used. Use near the window strip is assumed with a slope depth of no more than 170 mm. If there are deep slopes, and about window profile cannot close it, then a hinged bar is attached.

This slope is made as a wall using the starting profile. The slopes are fastened with a finishing profile, a profile with a foam or glue lock. The window sill is installed on the foam. When fastening the panel with foam, the panels are secured with special spacers until it completely hardens.

A J profile is used to frame the window opening. It is inserted into horizontal panel, used as a platband.

Vinyl siding trim

After completing the fastening of the profiles, installation of the siding begins. The process is performed in a specific order:

1. The bottom panel is mounted along the entire length of the wall. If its length is not sufficient, then the connection with the adjacent one is made with an overlap. The amount of overlap should not be less than 3cm (more reliable fastening obtained using an H-profile pre-attached to the frame).

2. Attaching siding. Their installation is carried out in compliance with certain rules:

fastening with self-tapping screws is carried out at a distance of 30cm relative to each other;
screwing in self-tapping screws or driving in nails is performed perpendicular to the wall exactly in the middle of the hole;
Do not tighten the screws all the way, a 1mm gap should be left;
It is not recommended to fasten panels to the corner, because there are special strips for decorating corners. The distance from them to the corner of the wall should be about 1 cm.

Having completed the fastening of the first row, all the others are mounted. The next panel is attached parallel to the profile so that the lock can be easily latched. Without allowing them to be pulled, the panel is attached to the sheathing. Correctly performed fastening will allow the panel to move horizontally.

Fastening is carried out in two ways: around the entire circle of the building or finishing along the walls.

3. Sheathing corners. Each of these corners is decorated with special strips.

4. Attaching the finishing strip and the last row of material:

this strip is attached to the sheathing;
the distance from this bar is measured to the last attached row;
siding of the required size is cut with a grinder;
bending the strip horizontally, It starts up neatly under the bar.

By adhering to this sequence of work and observing the main features of its implementation, attaching the siding is simple. The result of finishing a building with this material will not disappoint.

DIY vinyl siding installation: final moments

At this stage, the installation of pediments is carried out. The principle of performing all the work is similar to cladding the walls of a building:

the starting strip is strengthened;
J-profile is mounted;
siding strips are attached.

If the length of the material is insufficient, a connecting strip is used. Its location should be considered so that it does not pass through a window or doorway, and also to prevent large trimmings.

Sheathing of gables can be done in any direction. If the pediment differs from the wall, then their cladding is separated from each other by a horizontal H-molding. If the pediment has a protrusion inward, then the finishing of the wall should end with the finish, and the finishing of the pediment should begin with the aquilon and the starting panel.

When carrying out work on fastening siding panels, you must remember:

this material tends to change its size with temperature fluctuations;
its required volume in m2 can be determined by measuring the perimeter of the building, multiplying by the height;

How to install vinyl siding?

Cover a building with vinyl siding, even having superficial construction skills and knowing the installation technology of this material many can. It’s not for nothing that this method of decoration leads among others, and not only due to its aesthetic and attractive appearance, low cost, long service life, and also ease of installation.

Siding Installation Tools

For installation work facing material you will need the following equipment:

A knife for cutting siding is used as follows: first, a strip is drawn on the panel, along which it is bent and unbent several times, then broken. You can also cut material with a grinder, but only at low power
Jigsaw
Drill or hammer drill
Screwdriver
Level
Roulette
Bulgarian
Hammer
Marker or chalk for marking

Selection and calculation of component materials

Manufacturers vinyl siding also release all necessary component material for its installation:

External and internal corners for cladding the corners of a house with standard length 3 m. For calculation required quantity the total footage around the perimeter of the building corners is measured and calculated, which is divided by 3. It is better not to use short trims so as not to spoil the appearance of the building
Starting bar has a length of 3.8 m and is calculated by subtracting the length of the doorways from the perimeter of the house
The J-profile will be needed in places where extensions are attached to the building (length 3.8 m)
Window frame(length 3 m), calculated by summing the perimeters of window openings
Window sills are installed if necessary
The finishing strip connects the roof eaves to the house
The H-profile closes the joining gaps between the siding strips, is installed vertically, calculated by dividing the building perimeter by the length of the siding panel
The drain strip is installed under the window openings
The platband is mounted as a covering for any openings that are flush with the walls

You will also need galvanized self-tapping screws with a press washer 25-30 cm long. Their number is calculated based on the area of the walls: 20 pcs per 1 m².

Component materials for vinyl siding

Calculation of the amount of siding

Two options are used:

The area of the walls of the house is calculated, from which the areas of all openings are subtracted. The resulting value must be divided by the area of one siding panel
A drawing of the house is made and the required number of planks is calculated individually. This method is more economical, since it is immediately clear where will he go installation of scraps

Calculation of wall area for subsequent calculation of siding

Currently available on the market a large assortment siding from different companies. One of the popular Russian companies is Grand Line. Vinyl is different high quality. This material has high resistance to shock impact, as well as exposure to UV radiation.

Siding from the Nordside company is gaining increasing popularity. Read more about Northside siding. The material of this company has a wide range of colors. Northside siding does not collapse, is not affected by moisture, does not rot, does not rust, and the paint does not fade.

Preparatory stage

The advantage of this type of material is that it does not require pre-leveling walls It is enough just to clean the surface from dirt or previous cladding, remove protruding elements (plinths, trim, gutters, etc.).

If cracks are found on the surface of the walls, they are repaired cement mortar to prevent moisture accumulation in winter period.

Important! Wooden walls cleaned of mold and fungi and treated with primer deep penetration with antiseptic.

The surface on which the facing material is installed must be absolutely dry; this requirement is set by the siding installation technology.

Installation of sheathing under siding

The lathing is made according to the principle:

At horizontal laying siding, wood or aluminum profile stuffed vertically
Wooden blocks should have a cross-section of 20-40 mm. Lathing made of galvanized profile will cost 30% more, but it will be more reliable and durable
The distance between the profile (bars) should be 30-40 cm. They are set to the level
First, a guide is placed on the left corner of the wall, then a bearing horizontal one at the bottom, the next vertical one in the right corner. All openings are additionally tied
When making the sheathing, the location of drains, lamps and other communications is taken into account. To do this, additional guides are mounted on the sheathing.
The frame is attached to the wall using dowels (if the walls are made of brick, shell), self-tapping screws (wooden surfaces)

Carrying out insulation and waterproofing measures

Insulation (foam, mineral wool) fits into the crate. The main thing to consider is that you need to leave space for a ventilated space between the wall surface and the facing material to prevent rotting processes.

The insulation is covered on top with a water barrier, installed vertically or horizontally with an overlap of 10 cm. The waterproofing is secured to the wooden sheathing with a stapler. The joints can be sealed with tape.

After carrying out heat and waterproofing measures, a frame is made directly under the siding. The principle of the lathing remains the same: metal profile or wooden slats are stuffed in increments of 30-40 cm, all openings are additionally framed.

Installation instructions for vinyl siding

Installation of vinyl siding involves the following sequence:

Installation of corner strips
Attaching the starting bar
Installation of J-profile as finishing edges of siding
Trim around window openings
Cladding with siding panels
Installing the finishing strip

The installation of the starting bar occurs along the perimeter of the structure; it is important to set it carefully. Fastening with self-tapping screws is used in increments of 25-30 cm, and perpendicular to the surface. The fastener is screwed strictly into the middle of the oval-shaped hole to prevent bending of the material. The main thing is that the self-tapping screw does not go all the way into the strip, that is, there is a gap of 1 mm between its head and the siding (for convenience, you can apply a coin). In the middle of the joining of two starting strips, a gap of 5-7 mm is required.

Window and door openings located in the same plane as the wall are sheathed with a wide J-profile (platband), into which the siding is subsequently inserted.

If there are slopes, then decoration is reduced to finishing with siding using corner profile. Moreover, first the lower slope is lined (if there is no ebb), then the side slopes with a shift to the center of the opening to prevent the upper panel from coming out of grip in the winter, and finally the upper one.

When installing, the siding panels must fit into the starter strip and snap into place.. Then only the material is fixed with hardware. Fastening of the facing material occurs under constant level checking. For convenience, you can pull the rope.

The finishing strip is attached at the top under the roof itself, further from it the value up to last panel siding. The adjusted strip is bent in an arc and placed under the finishing panel.

Vinyl siding installation cost

? The cost of installation work on siding depends on the following factors:

Prices starting materials, including the manufacture of lathing, insulation, waterproofing, type of fasteners
Number of door and window openings
Depending on the building material (brick, wood)
With or without insulation

Video about installing vinyl siding

Vinyl siding installation technology.

Vinyl siding installation. Installation of vertical and horizontal siding, installation of soffit.

How to install vinyl siding yourself.

Even a beginner can cover a house with siding. It is enough to know the procedure and some installation nuances. If you decide to choose vinyl siding as the facing material, DIY installation is more than simple.

PVC siding is plastic and pliable, which reduces the likelihood of damage to panels and injury. Step by step guide will allow you to cover the facade of a house with gardening even without construction experience.

Based on the material below, you will learn how to attach siding to the wall correctly.

For greater clarity, each stage is accompanied by photos, diagrams, drawings and videos.

Please note that these installation instructions are for vinyl siding, which is installed differently than metal siding.

Knife. Who doesn’t know how to cut vinyl siding: vinyl is a soft material, it cuts easily sharp knife. To do this, you need to mark a groove on the panel. Bend and straighten the strip several times. As a result, it will break along the intended cut.

Electric jigsaw. Used instead of a knife. Gives a more beautiful cut, and also allows you to speed up the process of preparing panels to size.

Drill or hammer drill. With their help, it is convenient to enlarge holes for fastening hardware or punch new ones.

Screwdriver. For tightening hardware.
Building level. The laser is very convenient to use.
Roulette.

Good to know. If you are planning to use a grinder to cut siding panels, this is acceptable. However, keep in mind that at high speeds, the sheet cut will begin to heat up and melt. This will lead to its deformation. Therefore, use the grinder at low power.

When starting to cover your house with vinyl siding, always keep in mind that this material has a high coefficient of linear expansion. This means that there must be a gap of 5-7 mm between the starting planks, as well as between the rows and the planks. And if installation is carried out at temperatures below -10 ° C (which is generally unacceptable from the point of view common sense, but for domestic practice it is quite common) - then the gaps should be at least 10 mm.

There should be a gap between work surface materials and fasteners. Below we will talk about this in more detail.

Vinyl siding should sit for at least a couple of hours at outside temperature before installation work begins.

Under no circumstances should siding be screwed all the way through. This approach to installation can lead to cracking of the sheet of material. But, if such a need arises, fix the sheet not where the nail holes are punched, you must first drill a hole for the hardware, and only then fix the sheet or additional element.

Despite the fact that fastening siding with self-tapping screws is most common in domestic practice, you can also use fasteners such as nails and staples.

Installation of vinyl siding - instructions

Generally speaking, the installation of vinyl siding can be divided into several stages:

securing the starting bar;
installation of vertical strips (corners and H-connector);
installation of siding panels;
framing window and door openings with siding;
installation of vinyl siding around the arch;
arrangement of protruding elements;
fastening finishing strips;
soffit installation;
gable trim.

Good to know: attaching siding to metal sheathing or wood, or even to the base of a wall surface, always starts from the bottom. This allows each subsequent panel to be placed above the previous one. Thus, it is achieved additional protection surface or insulation from moisture.

1. Setting the starting bar (starting strip)

Installation of siding panels always occurs using a starting strip. It is attached along the perimeter of the building (or that part of it that is planned to be sheathed).

The initial strip is covered by a number of panels, so it cannot be pulled out special requirements. It can be put together from scraps or use a strip of a different color.

The starting bar sets the tone for the entire work. It's better to spend more time leveling it than trying to even fix it. minimum slope during installation work.

Before you start attaching it, you need to designate the location of the future attachment.

To do this, drive a nail (screw in a self-tapping screw) at the lowest level of the wall.

The distance from the nail to the ground should be equal to the width of the starting strip.

Next, stretch the thread between the nails. Check the correct thread tension using building level. Next, using chalk, draw a line along the thread between the nails. This will mark the line where the starting strip is attached.

The more often you use the level, the more correctly and evenly the siding installation will be completed.

However, at least every third row of siding strips should be checked for possible deviations from level.

After this, fix the bar.

How to properly attach vinyl siding to a wall

When installing vinyl elements, you need to properly fasten them. Namely, it is important to adhere to the following conditions:

- the distance between two adjacent screws should be about 250-300 mm.

You need to tighten the hardware or drive a nail strictly perpendicular to the plane.

- fasten the screws only in the middle of the nail hole, which has an oval shape, this is precisely the trick that allows the panel to slide when expanding. The right way shown in the figure.

- the self-tapping screw is not tightened completely. A gap of 1 mm must be maintained between the surface of the material and the screw head.

Achieved required clearance two ways.

First, you can attach a coin.

Secondly, you can screw it all the way, and then loosen it one turn. There should always be a gap of 5-7 mm between two starting bars located next to each other.

The gap compensates for the linear expansion of the material.

The installation of the strip at the corners is not complete. Because a special corner strip is used to arrange the corner.

Using brackets as fasteners, you must also maintain a gap of 1 mm.

Good to know. Some builders recommend immediately installing the starting strip on window and door blocks. However, this should not be done, because the need for it does not always arise. The window dimensions are not so ideal that the ordinary siding strips will be exactly at the level of the strip during installation.

2. Fastening vertical strips - corners and H-connector

2.1 Attaching the strips

The corners are installed before the installation of the main planks begins. It is in them that the row panels are installed.

Fastening a vinyl corner also has its own characteristics:

Firstly, the angle is set to 5-7 mm without touching the ground. When heated, the corner will expand vertically and the gap left will prevent it from deforming.

Secondly, it is important to secure the screws correctly. As you can see in the figure, the corner is attached starting from the top nail hole. Moreover, the self-tapping screw is screwed into its upper part. On this self-tapping screw (nail), the entire angle seems to hang in the air.

Thus, the material can only expand downwards and to the sides.

The rest and the last self-tapping screw are screwed in the same way as the starting strip - clearly into the middle of the nail hole.

Thirdly, the bottom edges of the corner are cut to the width of the starting strip. This avoids deformation of the material when heated.

It will look as shown in the figure.

Selected cases in vinyl siding installation technology

The length of the corner strip is up to 4 meters. But you may need to extend the angle.

Mount the bottom corner strip, then cut off the fastening points on the sides from the top one and “put it on” the bottom one, leaving a gap of 5 mm for compression under the influence of temperature.

The amount of overlap is 20-25 mm.

The picture shows how to lengthen the bar

Good to know:

The joints at the corners and the H-connector must be at the same level. This will make the appearance of the house more harmonious.
The upper corner strip is mounted on the lower one, and not vice versa. This will protect the corner from water leakage.

Since the corners of vinyl siding are flexible, they can be used to trim obtuse and sharp corners building.

For obtuse angle– the profile needs to be pressed down, for a sharp one – narrowed.

For the internal corner the procedure will be similar.

Considering the cost of the corners, you can save on them if you mount two J-bars in their place. The installation process is shown in the figure.

2.4. Installation of H-profile

This type of work will also not take much time and effort. Here it is important to correctly calculate the location of the bar. Fastening is carried out similarly to fastening corners.

First, the lower bar is mounted, and then the upper one;
if extension is necessary, pieces of 5-7 mm with perforation are cut off (to compensate for expansion);
overlap the profiles.

Keep in mind, the starter bars must be adjacent to the H-connector, not the other way around.

Good to know. You can do without installing an H-shaped profile; in this case, the siding strips will overlap.

The photo shows what the wall should look like before installing regular siding panels.

3. Installation of ordinary siding panels

Let’s immediately make a reservation that row panels can be attached in a circle, or you can finish one wall. From the point of view of siding installation technology, this does not matter.

Installation takes place in several steps:

3.1. The first strip of siding is inserted into the vertical grooves of the corner or H-shaped profile and secured with a self-tapping screw exactly in the center of the nail holes.

In this case, hardware is attached from the center of the panel to the edges, towards the vertical strips.

Good to know.
To make it easier to insert the strip, you need to slightly bend it outward.

As already mentioned, the siding panel is installed in the outer or internal corners. In case you use a budget option installation, arrangement inner panel possible using the methods shown in the figure.

At the same time, do not forget to leave a gap for expansion.

3.2. The siding panel must be lowered to the starting strip and clicked into place. To do this, you need the lock of the strip to catch on the starting bar. Do not “pull” the panel under any circumstances. Because in this case the radius of the panel will stretch and the locks will be deformed. How to install the siding panel correctly - see the picture.

Good to know.
If, after the lock of the next strip snaps onto the lock of the previous one, the panel can be moved horizontally, then its installation was carried out according to the rules.

3.3. Once the panel is installed, it can be secured with hardware.

3.4. All remaining rows, with the exception of the last one, are performed in the same sequence.

If you need to connect the panels to each other, and you did not provide an H-shaped profile or you do not like the way it looks, you can do it as follows.

First, remove the lock joint from the panel.
Secondly, place two sheets on top of each other.
Thirdly, lock the cut part of the sheet.

The photo shows what it looks like in practice

For your information:

Some manufacturers produce panels without locking fastening at the end of the siding sheet.
The panels are not sealed at the joints.
The installation line can be straight, or it can be offset.

4. Installation of near-window siding strips near window and door openings

There are two possible ways to position openings relative to the wall surface.

in one plane. In this case, the openings are simply sheathed around the perimeter with J-profiles and the siding panel is installed in them.

with the arrangement of the slope. With this arrangement, the panels are installed in the manner shown in the figure.

In practice it looks like the one shown in the photo.

Installing a panel into such a design is also not difficult. Since vinyl is quite flexible, the panel is simply bent slightly and installed into the J-profile.

The main thing here is to cut the siding strip correctly.

Docking lugs are holes in a strip of material intended for fastening hardware. They are done using a punch.

5. Installation of vinyl siding around the arch

If the openings in your home end in an arch, this is not a problem for installing plastic siding.

Finishing an arch with vinyl siding differs from finishing a regular opening only in the method of installing the J-plank.

Flexible J-bar makes finishing easy arched openings. To do this, notches are made on the profile and the smaller the radius, the more often the notches should be made.

The process is clearly shown in the photo.

Installation of siding around protruding objects occurs by cutting the strip and overlapping it.

7. Installation of finishing strips and the last row of siding panels

This is done like this: first the finishing strip is fixed.

Then the distance from the last row strip is measured from it. This is the value that the last siding panel should correspond to.

The horizontal strip is bent in an arc and inserted into the lock and the finishing strip.

8. Installation of soffit siding

8.1. Using a wind bar

If the front plate has small size it can be closed using a wind strip. To do this, a finishing strip is mounted along the upper edge of the front board, and the wind strip is attached so that its upper part is fixed with the finishing profile.

Then the J-profile is attached to the wall and a soffit is installed between it and the wind strip.

In this case, the soffit can be installed in one of two ways shown in the diagram.

In this way, installation is carried out if the front board is wider than the wind bar.

Wherein outside corner is mounted on the edge of the frontal board, and the J-profile on both sides of it is on required distance. The soffit is cut out the right size and is inserted between one of the corner pieces and the J-bar.

The second side is finished in the same way.

It is not recommended to install a dark-colored soffit in this way, since it is highly susceptible to fading on the front strip.

9. Installation of gable siding

Installing a gable is no different from installing regular strips of siding. Produced as follows:

9.1. installation of the starting strip. Occurs in full accordance with the rules described above.

Good to know:
You can use all the remnants of the J-profile that you have accumulated during your work to finish the gable. Still under roofing material he is not visible.

This work is performed as shown in the photo.

To do this, the J-planks must be placed on top of each other and the front part must be cut diagonally. Don't forget about the gap.

9.5. Preparing the planks.

In order to cut the siding strip correctly, you need to measure the angle of the roof slope.

This can be done using a simple technique: place a piece of a strip of material against the surface of the gable, and the whole panel in a level with the J-profile.

Then you need to draw a sharpened pencil along the overlapping sheets. The result will be an accurate angle of inclination. Next, remove the short piece and cut the siding along the drawn line.

The process is shown more clearly in the drawing above.

Cut the corner of the last siding panel and insert it into the J-profile.

This is an exceptional case in the installation of vinyl siding, in which a hardware or nail hits right through the panel.

Installation of vinyl siding - video instructions

Conclusion

In this article we tried to reveal all the features of installing vinyl siding. We hope now you know how to install façade siding with your own hands, as well as the components for it.