Installation of electrical wiring in a wooden house - we do it ourselves, following the rules. Wiring in a wooden house - design, installation and basic safety requirements (120 photos) Hidden wiring in a wooden house

What is attractive about the idea of ​​​​building a wooden house? This is the ecological purity of materials that can provide a comfortable and healthy microclimate in the premises of the home and, of course, the desire of homeowners to follow the traditions of Russian architecture. The modern building materials market allows you to build a house made of profiled and laminated timber, as well as rounded logs. In contrast to all the advantages inherent in houses made of wood, a problem arises with the arrangement of electrical wiring. The option of open wiring laid in cable channels does not always meet the requirements attractive design interior decoration, the homeowner is faced with the question of how to make hidden electrical wiring in a wooden house with his own hands. We will talk about this further.

Advantages of hidden wiring

The undeniable advantages of installing hidden wiring in a wooden house are:

1. The absence of cable channels on the walls, which have a detrimental effect on the premises and significantly complicate the process of applying wallpaper.
2. Risk minimization mechanical damage cables and electrical wiring wires.
3. Possibility of replacing the cable laid in the pipe.
4. High degree of electrical fire safety, provided that installation work is carried out correctly in accordance with the requirements regulatory documents.

Special safety requirements

Hidden installation of electrical wiring in a wooden house is very complex and requires strict compliance with standards fire safety, PUE requirements and compliance with GOST R50572 1-93. A person who does not have electrical installation experience should not attempt to do this work with their own hands. The homeowner who has invited specialists to arrange the installation needs to know the basic provisions about installation methods in order to control the progress of the work and in no case take this material as step-by-step instructions.

When designing a home's electrical circuit, the main emphasis is on ensuring fire safety, even if this goes against the aesthetic component. The finished project must be agreed upon with specialists. The hidden wiring diagram should provide for a minimum of turns of the electric main. Considering the high probability of fire in wooden structures, the wiring must be laid in such a way that even a tiny section of the power line does not come into contact with wood. The cable must be laid in steel or copper pipes. It is allowed to lay electrical wiring in a corrugated metal hose, as well as in PVC corrugation, provided they are protected with plaster or asbestos gasket.

The diameter of the pipe is selected taking into account the fact that the hidden electrical wiring laid in it should occupy 40% of its internal cavity, the thickness of its walls should correspond to the cross-section of the conductive wires. Pulling an electric main through pipes can cause mechanical damage to its shell, so it must be done after each such operation. Special requirements are imposed on the brand of cable; its shell must be made of non-flammable three-layer material, and the marking of domestic samples must necessarily contain the letter symbols “NG”. For example, VVGng-p. The imported analogue is the NYM cable.

Pipes must be securely joined by threading, welding or soldering. Places for interroom transitions, as well as installation points for wiring elements, should be equipped with metal boxes or glasses, wrapped in asbestos and secured with alabaster plaster. We talked about this in more detail in a separate article.

Installation features

The most labor-intensive operation when laying hidden electrical wiring in a wooden house is installing pipes in the body of the wall. The process is quite labor-intensive, requiring the greatest possible accuracy and precision. To carry out this work, special practical skills and special high-tech tools will be required.

To install insulating pipes into walls, drilling will be required, both horizontally and vertically. Vertical holes are drilled during the process of laying the frame, horizontal holes are drilled when the walls are already erected. After the pipes are fixed in the body of the wooden walls, a wire is inserted into them, which will serve as a conductor for pulling the wire. Seating They are carefully cut down to fit the dimensions of the wiring elements, and insulating metal boxes are attached to them.

An alternative option is wiring over the ceiling. Is it possible to avoid such a labor-intensive process associated with installing pipes into walls? Many homeowners, when installing hidden electrical systems in a wooden house, practice laying wiring along the ceiling in the attic. The fire safety requirements for this method of electrical installation remain the same; the electrical main in the attic is insulated with metal pipes or trays, only descents to switches and sockets are made through grooves or vertical drillings in the walls, as shown in the photo below:

Another option is hidden wiring in the plaster. You can take the simplest route and lay the electrical wiring between the layers of plaster. The method is primitive and inexpensive, but not very safe. Plaster actively absorbs moisture and also cracks over time, causing it to lose its insulating properties.

Helpful information

For laying hidden wiring in wood, experts recommend one developed in Germany, with three-layer insulation made of non-flammable material. The shell is so strong that it can be installed without PVC corrugation.

The home electrical network must have a TN-S or insulation system that makes it possible to ground metal pipes, trays, ducts and boxes.

It is better to equip the electrical equipment of the house with protection against short circuit currents, as well as with RCD functions.

Now you know how hidden electrical wiring can be done in a wooden house with your own hands. We hope that our installation tips, as well as the rules and requirements provided, helped you understand the essence of the work!

Materials

Installation of equipment in the panel

Having completed the external electrical installation of a wooden building, it is customary to lead the input cable through a metal sleeve into the room. To receive electricity and distribute it in the house, an input distribution board is used, which must be installed in safe places to ensure free access.

The shield cannot be installed in rooms with high humidity

Devices are installed in the shield protective shutdown and circuit breakers. Particular attention is paid to the selection of automation. It is recommended to use products only from well-known and reliable manufacturers.

Laying the internal network

Internal wiring in a wooden cottage is considered a guarantee of the safety of residents. Unskilled electrical installation often causes fires. There are two methods of installing wiring inside a wooden building - open and hidden. These names make it clear appearance transaction data.

Open installation method

Of the two methods, open electrical wiring in a wooden house is safer. In addition, performing such electrical work will be cheaper. The wires are laid along the inner surface of the building, attached to ceilings, walls and other structural elements. You can hide the cable various methods: decorated with a retro cable or placed in a PVC box.

Open wiring in a wooden house: the cable is placed in self-extinguishing channels

Electrical wiring is laid in self-extinguishing channels. The modern range of similar products allows you to choose the desired color of the box, which imitates wood, to suit any design. Such boxes are usually used in houses made of clapboard and rounded logs, where the walls have a flat surface.

Wiring in a cottage using a retro braided cable is another method of laying material externally. The cable looks like a twisted cord and is fixed on ceramic insulators. This installation method is considered safe because the cable has an outer insulation made of natural silk and two outer insulations made of PVC plastic. The main advantage is the gap between the surface and the cable. In addition, this type of wire can decorate any log house.

Features of hidden wiring

Hidden installation of electrical wiring is characterized by the rather inaccessible nature of the wires in the case of modernization and renovation of housing, higher prices for services and a much greater required time expenditure for work. However, the lion's share of customers prefer this technique, citing aesthetic appeal. The owners of wooden cottages do not want to spoil the interior and expensive finish of their home with electrical panels and wires.

Hidden electrical wiring in a wooden house is usually installed during the assembly stage of the house. To comply with all safety standards, the cable must be enclosed in a painted metal or galvanized pipe. All climbs to lighting fixtures, switches and sockets are made in special holes.

Hidden wiring in a wooden house is a very complex and expensive process, justified only by aesthetics

When installing electrical networks in wooden houses, it is recommended to comply with certain requirements and use special materials to ensure maximum safety and fire protection. In the ceilings of a wooden building, the cable is placed in pipes made of non-flammable plastic, and care is taken to ensure that there is no mechanical impact on the pipe and cable.

Hidden electrical wiring can be located in grounded metal hoses and metal pipes. Log houses are subject to “shrinkage”, so it is recommended to take this into account by not allowing the logs to affect the wiring in the metal hoses. The wire passes through the wall through special metal sleeves. Both methods of installing electrical wiring have advantages and disadvantages, so a combined wiring method is often practiced.

Marking of devices, panels, cables

After completing the electrical supply project, you need to mark the cable lines and locations for switches, sockets, dimmers, panels and lamps. It is necessary to approach the markings carefully so that you do not have to redo the work performed in the future. Electrical wiring in a wooden house should be planned so that cable routes do not interfere with the installation of furniture in the future.

The wire in cable channels will look most harmonious and aesthetically pleasing. You can choose any pattern, any shade of wood. For such channels you immediately need to buy tees, plugs, and adapters. And although the price of these parts is twice as high as the boxes themselves, it is not advisable to save money, since no one will fit the non-joint areas of the boxes perfectly.

When purchasing channels, you should pay attention to the thickness of the walls and the lock of the box. Carrying out work on installing wires in miniature boxes that have thin walls and double locks, electrical installation companies do not think that in most situations, servicing electrical wiring in such boxes provokes a break in the locks if the channel covers are opened.

To add cable to the box, you will have to buy new channels and re-install the wiring and boxes. A double lock requires the use of a specialized tool that can open the lid, but absolutely not all electricians think about this. It is better to choose a box with a technologically consistent profile geometry, large walls and a single lock.

When the electrical wiring diagram in a wooden house has been studied and the cable lines have been marked, you can begin installing switches and sockets. All switches, dimmers and sockets, the bases of sconces and lamps must have a metal platform for attaching the electrical installation product to the ceiling or wall, because wiring electrical equipment on metal platforms is the most fireproof option.

After installing all the platforms, you should begin installing the cable boxes. No matter how accurate a specialist’s eye is, all electrical work must be done using a level.

Passing through wooden surfaces

All wiring passes through wooden walls, partitions, and foundations must be made through metal pipes called feed-through sleeves. Before proceeding with electrical installation of wires through combustible walls, it is recommended to drill them, then insert a metal sleeve into the hole so that its edges protrude from the combustible base on both sides by at least 1 centimeter.

It is recommended to pay special attention to ensure that such sleeves are equipped with plastic bushings at the edges that can protect the wire from cuts during installation and further operation of the power supply system, in other words, they will help preserve the cable insulation from damage. After that cable channel it must be mounted in such a way that the end of the metal sleeve enters the box.

How to choose an electrical cable

Installation of electrical wiring in a wooden house requires a certain cable. The wire for power supply to a private home should be purchased with the index “NG”, which means “cable that does not support combustion” and with the designation “LS”, which stands for “low smoke emission”. Preferred for wiring in wooden building choose a wire that matches all existing requirements fire safety, and also has all the necessary quality certificates.

The choice of wiring cross-section depends directly on the power consumed by the electrical equipment. Designers usually include 3 by 1.5 millimeters for lighting in their power supply projects, and 3 by 2.5 millimeters for groups of sockets. To organize power supply for electric stoves, you will need a wire with a cross-section of at least 6 millimeters square. It's better not to skimp on cable. Rosette lines must be calculated with a minimum number of outlets located on one group. If a wire is laid from the switchboard to a block that consists of 4 sockets, then it is not recommended to connect anything else to it. Only then will the electrical wiring last for many years. The relationship between the cable cross-section and the power of electrical appliances can be found in the corresponding tables.

After performing such work as installing electrical wiring in a wooden house, you need to immediately measure the insulation resistance of the wiring.

This manipulation is done to ensure that the conductor insulation is not damaged during installation work. It is recommended to carry out such electrical measurements once every 3 years to protect a wooden house and its easily combustible foundations from short circuits in the wiring.

Video about electricians in wooden houses

Thus, the problem of installing electrical wiring is as follows: often inexperienced craftsmen believe that the cable in a wooden building should be the same as in a simple apartment. This is unacceptable, because the wiring of a wooden structure must have increased fire safety characteristics. If you carry out the installation work according to the instructions above, the wiring in your cottage will last for many years.

Housing made from natural solids is considered the oldest Russian architectural tradition. Today, too, in the absence of shortages modern building materials, most owners of country estates give preference to building houses directly from wood, which is incomparable in warmth, as well as the comfort it creates.

However, not a single residential building can do without electrical power, and a house made of wood is no exception. At the same time, in order to independently conduct electrical wiring in a wooden house, it is important to know simple rules. By adhering to it, you will not endanger the health of your family and will fully ensure maximum safety of your property.

Work methodology:

• Power determination electrical device and development of project documentation;
• Selecting the required cable, sockets, devices;
• Input of power supply into the housing, installation of a circuit breaker, as well as connection of a switchboard and meter;
• Installation of electrical devices, lighting devices;
• Installation of RCD, grounding arrangement;
• Carrying out preventive tests.

Preparation of project documentation

To create a project, it is important to obtain guidance by contacting the appropriate organization. Then we calculate the power of electrical devices to create a step-by-step electrical circuit:

• a technical plan for the construction is being produced. In the scheme electrical wiring in suburban housing, areas for placing sockets and other electrical elements with individual connections are determined;
• cables are selected for all electrical points;
• the diagram indicates the installation points of distribution boxes;
• the possibility of all devices is noted;
• lighting devices are connected exclusively to one line, while powerful devices are combined into another line;
• the distance expected from the line from which the cable will pass to window and door openings is determined, as well as the distance from electrical points to floor and ceiling surfaces. In the future, this will prevent damage to the wiring during repairs.

Types of electrical wiring

There are several methods for installing electrical wiring in a natural habitat:

Open type electrical wiring is installed on insulators. This method was in great demand in the past century; now rooms furnished in retro style are again in fashion.

Electrical wiring in wires. it's the same open view wiring that is accessible when necessary, only the wires are laid in trays. A type of such wiring consists of baseboards.

Hidden electrical wiring. It is installed in a structure made of wood if there is cladding on the ceiling or wall surface. In this version, the cables are arranged in a corrugated metal sleeve and routed around the perimeter of the house. The wiring is hidden behind the facing materials.

Features of closed type wiring

This wiring can be installed during repair work or at construction stage. There are certain features when laying: each connecting node must be placed in metal boxes with unobstructed access. They cannot be hidden under the finishing, since the covers are selected by shade or placed in inconspicuous areas.

In the process of laying cables, there are no specific requirements for the size of the walls of steel pipes. therefore, it is permissible to place them in a metal sleeve. This is significantly convenient. However, since the wires are not visible to prying eyes, access to them is very limited.

Changing an existing network is considered costly and problematic. It is for this reason that before installing a cable in a solid structure, carefully study the rules for installing electrical wiring and approach the issue responsibly.

Rules for installing wiring in a wooden structure

When arranging a structure made of wood, it is important not to forget that the material is flammable, so it is preferable to play it safe.

Electrical wiring in a solid wood house, as in the photo, is not difficult to install independently if you follow the necessary rules:

• First of all, a circuit is formed, the uninterrupted operation of the branches is checked, and then it is connected to a special electrical power panel.
• Installation of wiring in a solid building is carried out exclusively in solid cable pieces without various twists, as well as various compounds.
• The wiring is laid in stages, checking the quality of the cable insulation.
• When cutting an electrical cable, it is important to leave at least 15 centimeters of reserve so that, if necessary, everything can be reconnected.
• You should definitely pay attention to the shade of the wire.

Adhering to these requirements, the wiring in a wooden structure, created with your own hands, will be reliable and as durable as possible.

Photo of electrical wiring in a wooden house

The technology of electrical wiring in wooden houses has its own characteristics. Not only will you need to run a cable from the nearest substation to connect to the network, but the wiring inside the premises must be carried out in compliance with special safety standards.

Wiring Requirements

Wood is the most popular material used in the construction of private housing. Despite its advantages, wood is a fire hazardous and flammable material.

Regardless of the material - brick, gas silicate blocks, concrete, timber, if a fire occurs, open fire spreads to the furniture and interior decoration of the room. First, everything inside the room burns, and only then the load-bearing walls, partitions and roof begin to burn.

Basic requirements for electrical wiring in wooden buildings:

• Safety - Wiring must be laid in such a way as to minimize the likelihood of overheating and ignition of the cable, as well as to prevent the transmission of open flames to adjacent wooden structures.
• Design - the technical characteristics and performance of the wires and components used must correspond to the calculated peak load on a specific section of the electrical network. To prevent heating, the cable cross-section is selected with a margin of 20–30%.
• Laying method - it is preferable to electrify wooden buildings open method. This allows you to easily and regularly diagnose the state of the electrical network.
• Insulation - the location of the input unit (electrical panel) must be isolated from interface with wooden structures. It is ideal if the electrical panel is installed in a room with a partition made of non-combustible materials.
• Conductor - it is better to use a three-core copper cable with insulation made of non-combustible materials as a conductor. Laying the cable in PVC corrugation is strictly prohibited.
• Automation - a circuit breaker must be installed for each group in the electrical network. The current rating of the circuit breaker is selected in accordance with the load on the site. It is highly not recommended to overestimate the current rating, as this will lead to overheating of the conductor.

It is not recommended to independently lay a power cable and install an electrical network without appropriate experience - this should be done by specialists. But every owner of a private home must know the basic rules of electrification. This will allow him to diagnose existing wiring, and will also provide an opportunity to control the quality of work of hired electricians.

Regulations

Electrical Installation Rules is the main document for electrical wiring design

General requirements and rules for electrical wiring are described in the following documents:

1. PUE, edition 7 - the main document used in the design of the electrical network. It describes in detail the choice of conductor, distribution devices, automation and lighting.
2. SNiP 3.05–06–85 - electrical wiring in old and new houses. Methods of wiring and rules for introducing power cables into residential premises.
3. SNiP 31–02 - requirements for the installation of a power supply system in residential buildings. The document complies with the norms and rules described in the PUE.

The information contained in these sources is described in technical language and may not be understandable to an unqualified person. At self-study We recommend relying on the “Electrical Installation Rules”, since this document most clearly formulates the meanings and concepts necessary for installing wiring in private homes.

Preparation of a power supply project

An example of two electrical circuit diagrams in a wooden house

After consideration of the application by the managing body, an agreement will be prepared and technical specifications required for connection to the local electrical network. Then you can begin designing the power supply, which is performed in the following sequence:

When drawing up a project, you should be guided by the PUE. According to this document, electrical wiring is laid strictly in a vertical or horizontal direction. Optimal angle turn - 90 o.

The socket group, switches and distribution boxes must be located on open areas with free access. Typically, switches are mounted 80–150 cm from the floor level, and a socket or socket group - 50–80 cm. The number of sockets varies from 1 to 6 pieces. The exact quantity depends on the size of the room, but at least one piece per 6m2.

When designing a cable route, it is worth considering that the minimum distance from openings should not be less than 10 cm. If the cable may come into contact with metal elements, then it is retracted 15–30 cm in any convenient direction.

Selecting wires and devices

Electrical wire cross-section taking into account the total power of the electrical network

When installing private electrical networks, two types of cables are used: NYM and VVGng. NYM type cable is a power cable that complies with European standards and is used for laying electrical networks with a rated voltage not exceeding 660 V. VVGng cable is a bare power cable, in double vinyl braid, operating in networks with a constant voltage of no more than 1 kW.

The cable cross-section for laying electrical networks is determined in “mm 2”. For identification, the marking is applied to the cable insulation and is indicated by two numbers. The first number indicates the number of wires inside the single insulation. The second number is the cross-sectional area of ​​the conductor. For example, when an electrician says that you need a three-core copper cable one and a half square, this means NYM cable 3x1.5 mm.

The easiest way to determine the minimum cross-section of a power cable core for a specific section of the network is a special table. This method is proven, as it is used in the design of electrical networks in apartment buildings. The table for selecting the cross-section of the core can be found in the photo above.

As a rule, a copper cable with a cross-section of 2.5–4 mm is used for socket groups, and an aluminum cable with a cross-section of 1.5–2.5 mm is used for lighting. In the case of wooden houses, it is recommended to use only copper wiring, as this will protect the electrical network from overheating.

Wire of various sections for installing electrical wiring in a wooden house

According to the PUE, each section of the electrical network is equipped with a residual current device and a circuit breaker designed for the corresponding current values. To calculate the current strength, use the standard formula –I = P/U cosφ, where:

• I - current strength;
• P is the total power of electrical appliances connected to one section of the electrical network;
• U - voltage in the electrical network;
• cosφ – constant coefficient. In household networks it is almost always equal to 1.

For example, it is necessary to determine the current strength for a section of the network to which household equipment with a total power of 3 kW will be connected. I = 3000 / 220 = 13.64 A. Taking into account a small margin and rounding, it turns out that for this section you will need an RCD and a diphatomat, designed for a rated current of 16A.

To determine the type of circuit breaker, it is necessary to calculate the minimum current strength at short circuit: I short = 3260 x S/L, where S is the cross-section of the conductor in mm2, L is the length of the conductor in m. As a rule, in networks with a mixed load, which will be present in most private houses, type “C” circuit breakers are used.

Sockets are selected taking into account the power of electrical appliances. Typically, these are grounded sockets rated for 16 A current. It is worth remembering that if you plan to use several electrical appliances in a particular room, then it is better to install an outlet group for 2-3 products than to use a “tee” in the future.

Selection of input cable and automation

On the left is an electric meter, on the left is an RCD with an input cable.

Installing electrical wiring in a wooden house with your own hands - step-by-step instructions

It is optimal if the switchboard is installed in a special room with a concrete partition or wall

The technology for installing electrical wiring in a wooden house will consist of several stages: supplying a power cable to the house, installing a distribution board, laying a cable route, connecting contacts and checking functionality.

To carry out the work, you will need to prepare an electric drill with a core attachment, a screwdriver, a Phillips and slotted screwdriver, indicator screwdriver and protective rubberized gloves.

Installation of distribution panel

Distribution board for a private house for 12–24 modules

Distribution board is a device for entering the power cable and distributing the incoming electrical energy. Inside the switchboard there is electrical equipment responsible for connection, accounting, safety and correct operation of the power supply system.

Ready-made distribution boards from the manufacturer are a plastic, metal or combined box with a door, DIN rail, neutral and grounding bus. The dimensions of the shield are selected according to the number of modules used. For wooden houses, a panel for 12–15 modules is enough.

Installation of the shield consists of several stages:

When using a shield for 16–24 modules, as a rule, it contains two DIN rails. It is better to install an input machine, a meter and an RCD in the required quantity on the upper guide.

On the lower DIN rail there will be located circuit breakers. This type of module distribution will allow for faster and more convenient connections. After installing all the elements, it is recommended to mark the modules taking into account their group. The sequence of assembling the shield is shown in the video below.

Video on the topic: assembly and layout of the distribution board

Cable entry into the room

Laying a power cable to a residential building by air

Inserting a power cable into a residential building can be done in two ways: underground and over the air. The first method is more reliable, since an armored cable protected by a corrugated pipe will be used. In this case, the wiring itself will be located under a 30–40 cm layer of earth.

To lay the cable, a trench 70–80 cm deep is dug. A 15–20 cm layer of fine-grained sand is poured onto the bottom of the trench and compacted well. Next, a protective corrugation is laid on the sand cushion, through which the armored cable is passed. Then the corrugated pipe is covered with a 10–15 cm layer of sand. Finally, the pipe is completely buried in the ground.

Laying a power cable to a residential building underground

Cable installation by air is carried out in cases where the distance between the house and the substation is too large. For this purpose, a cable with a supporting cable is used, which is stretched between the supporting and residential buildings. If the distance from the pole to the house exceeds 20 m, then an intermediate support is installed between them.

When entering the power cable through load-bearing wall A sleeve made of non-combustible materials is installed at the junction point. It is optimal if the cable is inserted in close proximity to the location of the distribution board.

Installation of overhead switches and sockets

Removing the button and the front part of the socket before installation

Surface-mounted switches and sockets are used for both open and hidden methods of laying electrical wiring. The technology for installing a switch and socket is similar, so as an example we will take the process of installing a switch from Schneider Electric.

The installation process consists of the following:

Finally, the functionality of the switch is checked and final assembly. The technology for installing a surface-mounted socket is similar. As a rule, a three-core cable is used to connect sockets, so when connecting there is a yellow-green cable (grounding), which is connected to the central terminal.

Connecting wires and contacts

When installing electrical wiring in a wooden house, the use of “twists” is not allowed. It is ideal if part of the cable from the automatic machine to the point of consumption is made from a single piece of wire.

To do this, before cutting the cable, you need to apply markings to the wall surface. Next, using a tape measure, you will need to measure the cable route and only then cut the cable with a margin of 20 cm.

Wago terminal blocks for connecting wiring

If cable connection is unavoidable, then it is better to use:

1. Terminal block - are divided into products with a tightening screw and clamping plates. The latter are more optimal, since a plate is used for contact between the cable and the bus, which does not damage the current-carrying core.
2. Spring terminal is the simplest and most effective method connection in which the core is held and in contact with the plate by a spring clamp. Can be used to connect both aluminum and copper cables.

When installing electrical wiring in a wooden house, we recommend using terminal blocks from Wago. The products are of high build quality and have a wide range of products for cables of various sections. To connect, just strip the cable 10 mm, lift the clamping levers up and insert the cable into the terminal hole.

Methods for open wiring

Covered retro wiring using ceramic sockets and insulators

Opening wiring is optimal solution for installation of electrical wiring in a wooden house. The open method of laying a cable from the distribution panel to the point of consumption has been used for a long time - previously the cable was located on ceramic insulators. Thus, the wiring did not have direct contact with wooden wall.

Now this technology is called retro wiring and is used in rooms where the total peak power is quite small and does not exceed 4 kW. In residential buildings with high peak loads, this technology has many disadvantages and limitations.

Open wiring in a wooden house without additional insulation

For open wiring it is customary to use:

Some homeowners use a combination approach. To lay the cable in straight sections, a straight steel pipe is used, and metal corrugation is used as rotating elements. This approach cannot be called aesthetically attractive, but it is very reliable. For safety reasons, all metal pipes and other elements must be connected to a grounding circuit.

Agree that a private country house made entirely of wood is, of course, cool and beautiful. A wooden structure has numerous advantages. It is warm and durable, with an ideal level of humidity, and as for the ecological balance, no building material can even be compared with natural wood. But with all the advantages, such a house has one significant drawback, firefighters say similar buildings"combustible material". And since fires are often caused by electricity, the most actual problem there was, is and will be wiring in a wooden house. According to statistics from fire organizations, it accounts for half of all fires in buildings built from wooden beams.

The main requirements for wiring

Installation of electrical wiring in a wooden house has special requirements. Due to the fact that wooden buildings are classified as fire hazardous, the laying conditions power cables and the wires are completely different. Therefore, you should not think that since you know how to distinguish “phase” from “zero” or change sockets with switches, then you will be able to do all the electrical work in a wooden house with your own hands.

It is advisable that the entire scope of work (from connecting electricity to the house and up to installing the last lamp) is carried out by professional electricians. But since among people in this profession there are also many hacks, it will be useful for every owner of private wooden house construction to know the basic principles, requirements and rules for installing electrical wiring in order to later evaluate the quality of the work performed.

• The wiring of a household electrical network in a wooden house is carried out using a cable that has a non-flammable sheath and low level smoke emissions. You can easily distinguish such a cable by its marking; its abbreviation must contain the letters “ng” (non-flammable). Its outer shell is made of non-flammable polyvinyl chloride; this quality is achieved through the use of special plastic compounds in the manufacture. Conductors of this type have a reduced level of smoke emission; during fires, it is especially dangerous factor, because a smoke screen impairs light transmission and interferes with emergency rescue operations.
• The wiring must be done in such a way as to completely eliminate the possibility of electric shock to people and pets.

• It is prohibited to lay electrical wiring in a wooden house near heated surfaces (chimneys, stoves, fireplaces).
• It is necessary to completely eliminate the possibility of the cable catching fire and the fire spreading to wooden surfaces in the event of a short circuit.
• Installation of hidden electrical wiring in a wooden house is carried out only on fireproof structures.
• The installed cables and wires, as well as the installed switching devices, must have such performance characteristics as to have a sufficient margin for the total power consumed.
• Heating of conductors and connecting electrical components is not allowed.

Important to remember! You should not improve the interior design of wooden housing construction by reducing the level of safety. Trying to solve aesthetic problems can cause catastrophic consequences.

Main stages

Step by step, the entire process of installing electrical wiring in a wooden house can be divided into several main steps:

• Calculation of the total power that will be needed for all electricity consumers (household electrical appliances, power tools, lighting network).
• Before making wiring in a wooden house, it is mandatory to draw up a schematic design.

click to enlarge

• Based on the diagram and calculated data on the load, materials (wires, cables, switching devices, protection elements) are selected and purchased.
• Carrying out input from the main power line to the house.
• Installation and assembly of the distribution panel.
• Installation internal wiring(in a wooden house, options for hidden and open laying of conductors are used).
• Installation of switching equipment and lighting elements(sockets, junction boxes, switches, chandeliers, lamps, sconces).
• Installation of protective grounding and RCD.
• Laboratory tests, checking the operation of the household electrical network and preparing the relevant documentation.

Project

Do-it-yourself electrical wiring in a wooden house begins with drawing up a project.

Essentially, this should be a house plan that indicates all lighting elements, installation locations for sockets and switches, as well as household electrical appliances that require an individual line (air conditioner, hob, oven, water heater).

It is advisable to indicate on the drawing maximum power electrical appliances.

The lighting load is connected by a separate line to an individual circuit breaker (if the house is very large, there may be several of them - for each room or for each floor). It is necessary to provide a separate machine for yard lighting.

click to enlarge

Also, sockets in different rooms are powered by individual lines. If the house is small and there are few rooms, all sockets can be connected from one machine. The exception is the kitchen, it has so many powerful household appliances that a separate line is required.

Thus, you break all household electrical network your home into groups, now calculate the maximum load for each of them. To do this, the power of all electrical appliances that can be turned on at the same time is summed up. Based on the obtained figures, the power of the input and output machines is selected.

Entering the house

The introductory section, from the main power line to the distribution panel, is considered the most critical. There are two ways to properly supply electricity to your home.

Laying cables in the ground

It's more reliable way, because the conductor is completely hidden and is not exposed to any external influences. In addition, in the event of a short circuit and fire, there is no possibility that people or property will be harmed. Due to such high fire safety, underground input is especially recommended for wooden housing construction. In addition, it does not spoil the appearance of the site at all.

At the same time, considerable costs will be required. It will be necessary to dig a trench at least 0.8 m deep. If access to the house will be through the foundation, a thick-walled metal sleeve will be required. And it is advisable to protect the cable itself from the chemical effects of soil, microorganisms and rodents, and pressure from vegetation roots. To do this, it is not simply placed in a trench, but is pre-stretched in a metal pipe or corrugation.

It is advisable to use the underground method at the stage when a new house is just being built, so you can think about the passage of all communications in advance.

Cable laying over the air

If the building has already been erected, then a cheaper, more convenient and easier option would be overhead line. A tap is being made from the nearest support of the main power line.

Remember the main thing! Neither you nor your friends, even with the highest electrical engineering education, have the right to climb this support to make connections. This work is done by electricians from the staff of the energy supply organization servicing this power line (they have a special permit for this).

Its insulating layer is made of a material that can withstand temperature changes, sunlight and precipitation. Under the insulation layer, the SIP wire has not only conductive cores, but also a steel cable, which will ensure good tension. If you use another cable, it will need to be fixed with clamps on an additional supporting cable, also stretched between the support and the house.

Another important point. If the span is more than 20 m, then additional support must be installed, otherwise the sag will be large, which increases the mechanical load on the wire.

The air supply enters the house through a hole drilled in the wall into which a piece of metal pipe. It is very important that there are no tall bushes, trees or outbuildings in the path of the wire.

Distribution panel

Now Energonadzor requires in private country houses install two distribution panels. One of them should be located outside the house; an electric energy meter should be installed in it. This is done so that the controller can come and check the meter readings at any time.

The second panel is located inside the house, it is connected to the one on the street, electric cable. It will contain input and output circuit breakers and residual current devices (RCDs).

In wooden buildings, mounted distribution boards should be installed, which must be protected from moisture and dust. The shield must always be freely accessible.

Exposed internal wiring

Open wiring in a wooden house (it is also called external) can be performed in three options. Let's look at each of them briefly.

Corrugated electrical pipes

Nowadays it is not a problem to buy corrugated flexible pipes. The material they are made of is a special plastic that does not support combustion. It is necessary to conduct a cable in them, and two, and if necessary, more conductors can be placed in one pipe.

Open wiring in a wooden house is quickly and easily done with your own hands, but it has significant shortcomings. It is unlikely that several rows of corrugated pipes will add aesthetics to your room. And taking into account the current loads and how many different household electrical appliances there are in the house, there can be five or more such rows.

In addition, when you already stretch the cable into the corrugated pipe, it will practically not be possible to lay it evenly, it will not be stretched like a string, and sagging will still appear in several places. Such curves also do not look very nice.

Another drawback is that the corrugated pipe perfectly collects dust on its surface, which can only be removed with a vacuum cleaner, but this is not convenient to do everywhere.

Electrical box

Such electrical boxes are also called cable ducts. The most widely used boxes are made of plastic, which does not support combustion and does not emit harmful substances when melted. They are affordable and have different color scheme, come in one or more sections (in these you can lay several cables at once that go in the same direction).

Another advantage of the boxes is that with the help of them, electrical wiring in a wooden house can be done with your own hands without any problems or labor costs. You don't need any special tools, devices, experience or skills. Electrical boxes can be glued to the wall surface (most often liquid nails are used for this) or holes can be drilled and secured using self-tapping screws. After this, the conductors are laid in the cable channels and closed on top with a snap-on lid.

But electrical boxes also have a lot of disadvantages. The most important one is related to the fact that a wooden house will inevitably shrink over time. This will lead to squeezing of the boxes, as a result the lids will fly off, and the cable channels themselves will crack.

To accurately install the boxes, you will need all kinds of additional parts - turns, joints, corners, plugs. And we can’t say that this gasket will decorate your room; the look still turns out to be somewhat boring, similar to an office one.

Open cable

Open wiring in a wooden house, made with an unprotected cable directly along the wall surfaces, is considered the most optimal option. But this appearance turns out to be completely dull, because a metal or asbestos gasket must be mounted under the cable.

You can comply with all safety requirements and at the same time make the room original with the help of retro wiring, which has recently been gaining popularity. A special cable is laid on porcelain insulators, it turns out beautifully, especially if your interior design matches the retro style.

Hidden internal wiring

In general, hidden electrical wiring in a wooden house is not recommended, but if you comply with all fire safety requirements and standards, then this method is quite acceptable. It’s worth noting right away that it will cost more in terms of material costs. But if you are not experiencing financial difficulties, you can use one of two hidden wiring options.

Metal pipes

The most important advantage of metal pipes is that in the event of a cable fire, they reliably protect wooden surfaces and structures from fire.

They are laid in hidden cavities and voids behind the cladding of walls and ceilings. Or, recesses in the form of channels are drilled into wall surfaces, into which pipes are then laid. And already inside them a cable or wire is stretched.

It is advisable to use galvanized pipes to protect them as much as possible from corrosion. And in order to avoid damaging the insulating layer of the cable on the sharp edges of the metal pipe when pulling it, you need to use special plugs made of plastic, or thoroughly clean and sand the cut areas.

Copper pipes are considered the most technologically advanced; they bend well without special tools.

This is especially true if the hidden wiring in a wooden house has a complex branched circuit. But here, as they say, it’s a double-edged sword - installation is simplified, but the price increases several times; copper pipes are far from cheap. However, it should be remembered that it is better to spend money on high-quality electrical wiring once than to count the losses from a fire later.

Under plaster

There is another way of hidden wiring - under plaster. Now it is used less and less. The technology is painstaking - you need to criss-cross the beam with shingles (these are wooden slats 3-5 mm thick), and put a layer on top clay plaster at least 10 cm thick. Then the cables are laid in corrugated pipes and another layer of plaster on top to hide the wiring. About 30-50 years ago this method was popular; now it is unlikely that owners of wooden buildings from beautiful timber they will want to throw thick layers of plaster on it, at least it will look strange.

Remember the main thing! Installation of hidden wiring in wooden houses through voids and ceilings in corrugated pipes or plastic boxes is prohibited.

There are two good reasons for this:

1. During installation, the insulating layer of the conductors may be slightly damaged.
2. Rodents can damage the corrugated pipe along with the cable insulation (believe me, mice will gnaw PVC material won't be difficult).

Both of these cases will result in exposed conductors. And when you start on full power operate the wiring, in places where the insulation is damaged, the cable will begin to overheat, which will lead to a short circuit and fire.

Selection of switching devices

When choosing switching devices for wooden structure the first criterion should be their fire safety. Perhaps this will turn out to be expensive and will not fully fit into your design, but think again about the consequences that occur with the slightest spark in an outlet, when there is only one tree around.

Sparking in switching devices must be excluded, so buy quality products well-established companies.

It is undesirable to install switches and sockets in wooden houses, the working part of which is fixed to technical porcelain. This ceramic dielectric is cheap, does not burn, but is very fragile.

When the switching device is turned on and off, it periodically heats up and cools down, that is, it experiences temperature-dynamic loads. In this case, the porcelain becomes covered with cracks and at a certain moment may burst. Due to this, the working part becomes mobile, which entails deterioration of contact, the formation of sparks and even arcs.

Therefore, buy sockets and switches, the working part of which is mounted on heat-resistant plastic; it is resistant to dynamic influences and does not deform over time. Try not to buy a fake made of cheap plastic, which will begin to melt in the event of an emergency heating of the socket. High-quality heat-resistant plastic can easily withstand temperatures up to 130 degrees.

Protective grounding

Electrical wiring in a wooden house must have protective grounding. This work can be done with your own hands. Below are step-by-step instructions for installing grounding:

• Dig a hole in the shape of a triangle with equal sides of 1 m, a depth of 30-40 cm will be enough.
• Drive metal pins or corners at least 3 m long into the ground at the corners of the triangle.
• Using corner pieces 1 m long, weld these pins together.

• Drill a hole in one of the corners and use bolted connection secure the grounding conductor.
• Lead this conductor into the distribution panel and connect it to the ground bus. You will then connect all grounding conductors to the same bus.

According to operating conditions, such grounding is required by most household electrical appliances whose housing is made of metal.

Test work

Do-it-yourself electrical wiring in a house necessarily requires a set of testing works. You will need to call specialists, and they will make all the necessary measurements and tests:

• perform insulation resistance measurement;
• the machines will be loaded;
• measure the resistance of the grounding conductor;
• check the phase-zero loop;
• will perform an RCD check.

After all the tests are completed, they must issue a report indicating the values ​​of all measurements and a verdict that the electrical wiring is suitable for further use. This protocol will be needed for representatives of the energy supply organization when they come to seal the electricity meter.

You can clearly see the nuances of electrical wiring in a wooden house in the video:

As you can see, the power supply of a wooden house has a number of special requirements and nuances. Therefore, even if you are well versed in electrical engineering, do not rely only on your knowledge and strength. In some cases, consultation with professionals is simply necessary.

In the last article I told you about.

Dear readers, you already know that there are several. Therefore, in today’s article we will talk about open electrical wiring in a wooden house.

I have already described the advantages and disadvantages of hidden and open electrical wiring earlier in my articles. You can read it here: and.

In this article, I will not force you to make a choice in one direction or another, but I just want to tell you in detail how to correctly install open electrical wiring in a wooden house.

So let's get started.

How to properly install open electrical wiring in a wooden house?

Before installing open electrical wiring in a wooden house, first of all, you need to think in advance about the places where the electrical points will be installed. Electrical points include: switches (), lamps, lighting panels, power panels and other electrical equipment.

Secondly, you need to decide on the method of laying open electrical wiring in your home.

What methods of laying open electrical wiring exist?

Methods for laying open electrical wiring in a wooden house

There are several ways to lay open electrical wiring:

• on porcelain rollers or insulators (electrical wiring in old apartments and houses, or retro-style electrical wiring)
• on staples
• in PVC corrugation
• in PVC pipes
• in metal pipes
• in a metal hose
• in PVC boxes
• in cable channels
• on cable trays

Let me give you a few illustrative examples. This is what it looks like.

You can read more about each installation method in my article.

Installation of exposed electrical wiring in a wooden house

1. Route markings

Installation of open electrical wiring must begin with markings. In addition to marking the installation locations of electrical points, it is necessary to mark the route for laying cables and wires.

Do not rush when applying markings; think carefully about each step.

Otherwise, you will have to redo the already completed electrical installation.

2. Installation of electrical points (sockets, switches, lamps)

At the second stage of installation of open electrical wiring it is necessary.

Attention!!! The base for mounting sockets, switches, lamps, etc. must be metal.

We cut out the metal plate (base) and attach it to the place where we planned to install the socket, switch, lamp, etc.

3. Laying wires and cables

The third stage of open installation includes laying wires and cables. We discussed ways of laying wires and cables a little higher.

I remind you that passages of wires and cables through wooden structures (ceilings, floors, walls, partitions) should ONLY be carried out THROUGH METAL CELLS (PIPES).

To install a metal sleeve in a wooden structure, you need to make a hole using. We insert a metal sleeve into this hole so that its edges on each side protrude at a distance of 1 (cm) from the wooden structure.

And after all that has been said above, we proceed to laying wires and cable lines.

For information on how to choose the cross-section of cables and wires, read the article on how to correctly and.

The laying of open electrical wiring is carried out with three-core or five-core wires, i.e. by or .

4. Connection

The fourth stage of installing open electrical wiring in a wooden house is cutting and connecting wires and cables to electrical equipment. This is done with the help of tools (I gave a link to the article about tools above in the text).

5. Completion of work

After completing the work, you need to contact electrical laboratory specialists who will carry out acceptance measurements and tests of the electrical wiring:

• RCD measurement
• and etc.

After the measurements and tests have been carried out, the electrical laboratory specialists will provide you with reports in which they will write a conclusion about the condition and serviceability of your newly installed electrical wiring.

P.S. This concludes the article on the topic of exposed electrical wiring in a wooden house. Ask me your questions in the comments or in the feedback form. Subscribe to new articles.

How did you install exposed electrical wiring in a wooden house???

101 comments to the post “Exposed electrical wiring in a wooden house”

I have a hundred year old wooden house. and the wiring used to be on rollers. Not otherwise than also a hundred year old. Dusty and greasy. Especially in the kitchen. Now we have replaced the wiring. and all of it is in PVC cases. Just a miracle: neat, clean. easy to clean and cleaning the house is no longer scary)))

THANK YOU. I AM NOW COLLECTING INFORMATION ON THE ISSUE OF OPEN AND CLOSED ELECTRICAL WIRING IN A WOODEN HOUSE. EVERYTHING IS AVAILABLE AND EVEN CLEAR FOR ME) THE EXPLANATIONS IN THE PICTURES ARE VERY HELPING

I completely agree about VVGng-LS, many do not pay special attention to this, even they manage to lay PUNP...

I liked the antique wiring on rollers - it looks beautiful, it’s so cool)))

We were just about to change the wiring at the dacha, it’s quite old, so now we’ll do everything according to the rules.

I have two questions:
1. Is it possible to lay it openly along wooden wall(with fastening with brackets) cable brand VVGng-LS with a cross-section from 1.5mm2 to 4mm2?
2. Is it possible to lay a cable of the VVGng-LS brand openly in a metal hose along wooden walls and ceilings in the attic (two attic options: 1) frequently visited; 2) practically none. I’m hinting about rodents).
Thank you in advance!
P.S. And in general, huge respect for your articles. Until you find the answer in books, you will forget the question...

Sergey, I’ll answer your first question. Yes you can. On the second question - I wanted to write a separate article - electrical wiring in the attic. There they present her special requirements.

Thank you for your work!
Will wait.

Hello, please tell me, is there any new way to connect aluminum wires running from the pole to the house to insulators? Previously, they simply twisted the wire (aluminum) around the power supply, then they used nuts, then nuts were banned, then twisting seemed to be the same. So how to connect correctly? in the first case if we connect with copper and the second case if with aluminum. Of course, it would be nice to see the photos... These contacts are very important, there were cases, not uncommon, when the threat of fire was precisely in these contacts. The installation in the house was high-quality and competent, but due to poor contacts at the input, heating and sparking occurred. The introductory machine did not operate due to heat or EM protection.

Konstantin, currently, I recommend using SIP to introduce supply voltage into the house. Where did you get the idea that “nuts” were canceled - this type of wire connection is allowed in the PUE.

At the site, I accidentally met a theorist from Energonadzor and he told me about the nuts, that the wind makes the wire leading to the house shake, and the outside temperature causes the copper to expand and contract, and that the bot connection on the nut becomes loose and the contact is broken, and in short, everything is gone... I bet I didn’t bother with it and, just in case, I first make a twist on the power cable, and then I put a nut on the twist. I heard. that other connections appeared in place of nuts, I even saw them, black with a 10 bolt, when tightened, it clamps both the incoming wire and the one to which I connect. I wanted to ask, has anyone worked with these clamps? And SIP wire for supplying to the house (self-supporting insulated wire) in my opinion stands for this. But I need to connect from the shield inside the house through a metal tube to the wires from the insulators on the house outside. AVVG 2x10 is more suitable for me (it seems to me) and the cross-section should be enough for a small wooden house...

If I find a suitable clamp to connect copper and aluminum correctly, of course I will start copper with 2x6 or 2x10, also some kind of VVGng LS

A few words about the site: of course, thank you for being there and the site is very accessible and very useful. I would like to note only one thing - in a wooden house the base of the sockets must be metal (as you write) and this is absolutely correct, and in the photo on the website - as an example of installing sockets and switches from the Etude company under wood (if I’m not mistaken with the brand) , and the study never made a metal base in sockets or switches. It’s as if someone, without reading the full description, installed the electrical wiring following the example in the photo... I’ve never seen a metal plate specially cut out for an outlet and you can’t see it in the photo.

If the manufacturer of switches and sockets does not produce them with a metal base, then it must be done independently. This is what we did at one of the objects (bathhouse) during installation. It is not visible in the photo, because... I think that aesthetics should be present in the work and making a metal plate larger than the dimensions of the socket or switch itself is impractical.

The walnut consists of three plates, so there is no direct contact between copper and aluminum; their contact occurs through a steel plate. Which is exactly what we need. So you can use nuts in your case with a clear conscience.

The clamp you are talking about are special clamps for SIP wires. I will write a detailed article about them soon.

So if I choose a SIP supply wire to the switchboard, can I connect it to aluminum from insulators with such clamps? or are they only SIP to SIP??? It’s just that when you tighten the bolt, the contacts inside the clamp come out and are quite sharp... I hope I don’t bite the aluminum from the insulators with it.

Good day!
Please tell me if there are any special connection requirements electric convectors(floor and wall) in a wooden house with new (2009) open, copper, three-wire wiring?

Tatyana, hello!!! First of all, it is necessary that the cable to the convector has the appropriate cross-section. The cross section is selected according to its installed capacity (according to the passport). It is advisable to power it through an RCD or a differential circuit breaker of the appropriate rating. In principle, that's all. If any difficulties arise, write to me the power of your convector - I will choose electrical equipment for you.

Good health!
I would like to ask about localization ability. With closed wiring, this issue is given Special attention. When open, it turns out that almost nothing is spent! If with hidden wiring you need to cover the wiring on all sides with non-flammable material, then with open wiring, in my opinion, at least on the sides adjacent to flammable surfaces! Isn't it logical?
Quote: "Attention!!! The walls of corrugated PVC and plastic boxes (channels) burn out during a short circuit, which, if used in hidden electrical wiring in a wooden house, will lead to a fire.”
Question: Is it possible when wiring in PVC corrugation or plastic box Is there no longer such a danger directly on wooden surfaces? It's kind of strange, isn't it?

PUE, PTEEP, SNiPs - these are, of course, laws for electricians; there’s no escape.
Therefore, it seems that the most correct thing is to lay the wiring in metal pipes. However, I believe that it is almost impossible even for professionals to do it without deviating from the standards. I’m not even talking about the cost. The solution is to lay external electrical wiring.
In my opinion big myth about eating wiring by rodents and other animals (maybe the electricians themselves came up with this?) And all short circuits occur from network overload, unsatisfactory network condition and other chaos.
With a correctly developed project, selection of the permissible load and, accordingly, the cross-section of wires, protection, RCD and, accordingly, high-quality installation, plus periodic testing of electrical wiring and equipment, nothing will happen for 100 years.

Regarding the myth about rodents: I witnessed such ‘sabotage’. When replacing a wire (old) with a new one in the void interior partition the insulation was carefully removed from both wires. Traces of touching each other were visible on the exposed wires. The old wooden house was one step away from the fire. After that, all passages through the walls were urgently checked and metal tubes were plugged into the passage points. So this is not a myth.

Why is the boss silent?

Good afternoon.

In my wooden house on the second floor there are unheated cavities on the sides of the rooms, through which you can crawl freely. Is it possible to lay a cable in a metal conduit in them?

Igor, it is possible, if the electrical wiring is laid openly and there is access to it. But if it is an attic, then there are special requirements for electrical wiring in attics.

Igor, metal pipes are the only thing allowed. ground them and move on.

Konstantin, metal pipes with hidden wiring - I agree. But Igor did not clarify the premises and the method of laying the electrical wiring.

How to connect a switch with a socket. Show me the diagram.

Evgeniy, on given time There is no such diagram on the website.

How to mount the meter outdoors on the wall of a house and at what height? And what kind of hooks to install for the liner from the pole?

Is it mandatory to organize grounding in a wooden house when connecting to a single-phase 220V-6kW network?

Nikolay, definitely.

Good afternoon! Thank you for your answer. But if you look at the essence: I have a room without increased danger, there are no water or heating pipes, no iron cabinets, etc., but if I conduct a grounding circuit and ground, for example, a microwave oven, then it appears the possibility of being hit if you simultaneously touch a phase wire, accidentally, and a grounded device.

Nikolay, in such situations, an RCD is installed that will turn off the power if there is a current leak

Hello everyone, I live in an old wooden house, the wiring is the same old as the house, they made repairs in one room and accordingly changed the wiring to new, 2.5 sq. mm copper. (as I thought), but it turned out (after a little reading on this site) to 1.7 sq.mm., thanks to the admin for explaining such things to us mere mortals, far from electricity, for example, when I bought a wire for wiring, I knew that I need a section of 2.5 sq. mm. and bought one, but it turned out to be PUNP, so why change everything now? In the contact of copper with aluminum, heating occurs when you turn on, for example, a microwave, now I want to draw a separate line to the light, sockets and devices such as a microwave, but what about the contact with aluminum (I installed a terminal block, but it’s still some kind of nonsense), if you pull copper before the meter or before the traffic jams, then what should I do, there is aluminum there, will it heat up again or something? Unclear! The terminal block was melting, but if you lay it to the plugs, it will start to melt in the plugs??? Thank you!

Oleg, you just need to make a high-quality connection of copper and aluminum - these are all allowed. Leave the PUNP; if it has the appropriate cross-section, then use it; if the cross-section is too low, then load it a little less.

I did the electrical wiring in a wooden house at the dacha on my own. I read the article. Thanks for the valuable information. It turned out that I did the right thing in that I did the wiring openly in PVC boxes. But as it turned out, he committed a number of violations. In places where they passed through wooden walls, I laid wires in PVC corrugation, which is a serious violation. In addition, sockets and switches have a plastic base that is attached to a wooden wall. I have lived with this wiring for five years during warm periods. First of all this year I will install a metal base under all sockets and switches, and in places where they pass through wooden walls I will install metal sleeves. Should the electrical panel in which the machines are located also be metal, not plastic? Or can it be plastic, but must there be a metal base for the shield? The connection point for electricity to the overhead line is not in the house, but in a separate utility unit, and from the utility unit it goes into the house with a cable that lies on a metal cable.

Hello, I have a number of questions.
1. Let’s say I’m laying new wiring with a three-wire VVG. It turns out that I have to connect my own line from the meter (panel) to each socket, since the PE conductor can only be connected to the main switch, and connected to a distribution box. no boxes?
2. Why a metal base for electrical points? Does it need to be grounded?

Stepan, good afternoon.

1. You can connect PE conductors in junction boxes
2. Do you want to attach the socket directly to a wooden surface? What about fire safety - what if you accidentally overload an outlet and it starts to heat up and melt? There is no need to ground the base.

It’s clear, but why then have a main grounding bus at all, if you can simply make branches from one PE conductor?

Hello Stepan.
It is necessary to connect the PE wire according to the standards without breaking. Because PE wire is one of the main ways to protect against electrical damage. it cannot be connected “in a loop” with current. You need to clean the core from the insulation without making a cut, screw on 2-3 threads of the same wire as the core, crimp and solder this place. All this is done in the socket box.
The second way is to use a “VAGO” clamp, in which case the core can be cut. This method is allowed by Energonadzor as an exception. But the main way is by soldering without cutting.

Good afternoon
Can you please tell me what the thickness of the metal plate installed under sockets and switches should be? For example, is regular food foil suitable or do you need something more serious? Thank you.

But this logic proposed by the PUE is really not at all clear. Those. It is strictly prohibited to use a cable duct, PVC corrugation, metal hose, etc. at closed method installation of wiring on flammable materials (which, no matter how difficult it may be in practice, is understandable and justified) and at the same time allowing the use of the same cable duct, PVC corrugation, etc. with the open method. Does it really matter whether the cable will pass under the wooden cladding or along it, if in both cases it is in direct contact with the wood? Is this really allowed only because it is assumed that open wiring is always in sight and if something happens to it, it will be visible. Well, somehow this is very weak - for such a regulatory document as the PUE to rely on such assumptions in such an important matter as fire safety. Well, you really can’t expect that all the rooms in the house (of which there may be quite a few) are simultaneously under the visual control of the owner. Or what, he must constantly run around the whole house and watch, no matter where a cable channel burns out or a mouse gnaws through a PVC corrugation laid in an open way?! And if you need to leave the house, but at the same time leave some kind of load (for heating, for example)?!!! This is absolutely scary to think about!!! In general, to put it mildly, strange logic!!! I absolutely agree with Ilya (comment-question from 05/18/2013 at 21:13)
What do you think about this, Dmitry? The fact that these are the rules and you didn’t come up with them is understandable. But if you still abstract from the PUE. Just your “private opinion”?
And I would also like to know this:
Are there, in principle, ready-made sleeves available for sale for the passage of walls? Different diameters and lengths? Or you need to take simple gas pipes and make them yourself. And wouldn’t it be more correct to make the length of the pipe-sleeve such that there would be about 10 mm protruding on each side of the wall. Then cut threads at the ends and tighten this sleeve on both sides with thin nuts and washers?

Regarding metal plates for installation between switches. What should be the thickness of this plate?

In my wooden house, I simply wrapped sections of wires passing through the walls with thick metal foil (in several layers, without much tension). Installation is simplified, the wires themselves are not damaged, and there is no direct contact between the wire and wooden surfaces- the same as when using metal sleeves. I also placed the same foil (2-3 layers) under switches with sockets. The most common foil is food grade.

Of course I agree, electrical wiring in a wooden house is a special case (regardless of whether it is open or hidden) and fire safety should not be neglected here. On the contrary, we need to approach this issue more carefully. But the rules are the rules, and I conveyed their requirements to you. I can only speculate and guess why the requirements for open wiring are somewhat relaxed. Most likely because open wiring is always accessible for inspection, and in the event of a short circuit, the location of the short circuit will be clearly visible (traces of soot, melting), a burning smell will appear faster than a short circuit will occur in recessed places inside wooden partitions with hidden wiring.

All feed-through sleeves, bushings and adapters can be found in stores, although more often they are made to order. Well, or do it yourself - it will be much cheaper. The requirements for the thickness of the metal plate are similar to those for metal pipes for electrical wiring, i.e. with a cross-section of the supply cable up to 2.5 sq. mm, the thickness is not standardized, and with 4 sq. mm - 2.8 (mm).

Hello!

Thank you to everyone for the useful and sensible information.

Not being an expert, I'll try to guess:
- such stringent requirements for hidden wiring in wooden houses are explained by the fact that houses made of logs or timber are subject to rotting over time (tens of years) and, accordingly, vertical shrinkage and horizontal displacement (leaning huts).
I myself live in such a crooked hut - the maximum displacement from the vertical (between bottom wall and its upper part) is 180 mm with a wall height of 2.5 m.
It seems that hidden wiring (without steel pipes) would not have tolerated such a distortion and would have started a fire.

Apparently, PUEs are written on the basis of painful experience, just like traffic rules.
I thought: it would be nice to read the comments with pictures) to the PUE, similar to the existing commentary-clarifications to the traffic rules.

Good afternoon
Tell me, there are articles on the Internet that say that in a wooden house, each outlet requires a separate cable from the electrical panel. Do you think it is worthwhile to install electrical wiring in this way?

Sayan, these requirements are acceptable not only in a wooden house, but also in an ordinary apartment. The owner decides everything here. If you want to maximum reliability electricity supply, while spending a decent amount on materials, then please. Personally, I am in favor of this method, but it all depends on the budget and the feasibility of this decision in a particular case.

Good day everyone!
Tell me if I made a mistake somewhere with my new wiring in a wooden house.
The walls are sheathed with plasterboard (the gap from the wall is 5-10 cm. The distribution boxes are in plastic plaster, twisted, I think they can put clamps. Open wiring on the walls in cable channels, VVG ng LS cable 2.5 mm.
I want a suspended ceiling. I will run a corrugated line along the ceiling, and fill the route with fire-resistant plasterboard 12.5.
Input machine 25a.uzo 40 a, 30 mA, and two machines 16 each per room.
What mistakes did you make?
I take this issue very seriously, I don’t want to screw it up.

Good day.

They promised to tell us about the wiring in the attic - it’s certainly interesting.
But for example, I’m wondering what the requirements are for wiring in the basement (especially considering that in the basement there are wooden sheds for storing various things of residents and wooden chests for potatoes) and how to properly lay the wiring there, or rather, let’s say, not so much replace all the wiring, but make a branch line to your shed and make a light and socket there?

And at the same time, how do you feel about the method of laying over combustible structures or next to them in a metal-plastic pipe (PVC plastic, of course)? Some people practice it.

1).Instead of a steel pipe when laying over combustible structures (SC), can you use an aluminum pipe/u with a diameter of 16 mm, a wall thickness of about 1.5 mm? (it seems that the type of metal is not indicated in the PUE or is it?)

2).As a lining on the electrical outlet under the socket/switch/junction box, can I use not a steel sheet, but an aluminum sheet approximately 1mm thick?

3).If there is no grounding, is it necessary to ground the metal pipe (aluminum) in which the wire runs through the electrical network if it is known that no one will touch this pipe? , and is it possible to install an RCD/diff circuit breaker if there is no ground and is it possible to turn off the RCD/diff circuit breaker if there is a phase or neutral wire short circuit to a metal pipe, but no one touches it, i.e. there will be no leakage through a person? - again, if the RCD/differential circuit breaker is not connected to the ground due to its absence.

Metal hose is prohibited for installation in wooden houses without additional fire safety measures, as it does not have localization ability. Localization ability is the ability of a CONTINUOUS STEEL pipe to withstand a short circuit flash. Read the PUE more carefully. It contains all the answers to the questions. Or hire a competent specialist if you don’t want to read.

Correction! I didn’t complete the explanation! metal hose is prohibited for hidden installation! I’ll add my own method: in the open, ensuring a distance from the combustible surface of at least 10 mm and using differential protection for such a line. The metal hose must be grounded and the resistance checked.

What if you don’t earth it, but use this sleeve as a simple thermal and mechanically protecting screen? Or earth, what will happen if double-insulated wires/cables are used?

If you do not ground, then you will lose an important component of the set of safety measures - at your conscience. These sections of metal hose by default fall under the requirements of the PUE. All And what is so difficult about this task? Financially it’s worth it, it’s just time-consuming.

Hello! I want to replace the input in my private house myself and install an input machine, do I need to invite electricians from the electrical network before this so that they can make sure that I haven’t broken anything in the wiring, or should I invite them after I’ve done everything so that they can seal the machine for me? and connected the wires to the meter??? Thank you!

Novel:
08/02/2015 at 09:43
You need to notify the energy sales organization, whose representatives will unseal the electric meter

Good afternoon

Please explain what you meant when you recommended placing a metal plate under an outlet or switch when wiring is open on combustible surfaces. Is this a PUE requirement? But then, in theory, the plate should simply be non-flammable - fiberglass or getinax or any other non-flammable flammable material appropriate thickness. And should it protrude 10 mm from the socket - as when it is required to lay a wire in flammable insulation over a combustible surface. And this requirement applies to all external sockets or only to those that are not protected by anything reverse side? And if they are hermetically sealed (IP54), is a plate also needed? The requirement for a wire distance of 10 mm from a flammable surface is fulfilled automatically, isn’t it?

Good afternoon!!! Tell me how to choose the correct cable channel size for a certain number of outgoing lines????

Good day!
Do you think a piece of ski pole is suitable as a metal pipe to go through the wall? Or, probably, the diameter will not fit...

For your safety, or for formality?

for safety
and a lot of ski poles...

I decided to replace aluminum with copper, laid out the entire backup circuit, but I don’t know how to connect from the insulators, the indicator doesn’t show where the phase wire is - that’s the problem

Hello, I have several questions about wiring in a wooden house:

1. The article says that wiring can be done using brackets. But PUE 2.1.37 says that unprotected wires must be routed over surfaces made of combustible materials, either through something fireproof, or with a 10mm gap. The definition of a protected wire is that it is a wire that, in addition to insulation, has a metal or other sheath over the electrical insulation to protect against mechanical damage. If you do wiring on a VVGNG, then its general external insulation is considered a fur shell. damage? Or VVGNG is not protected by definition, and then they cannot do wiring on the brackets. I'm kind of confused because... half of the articles on the Internet on this topic do not consider the option of open wiring on brackets at all.
2. What is the correct name for sleeves for passing through walls? Cable penetrations? You need to Google it and buy it. Or do they not sell them and you have to cut the pipes yourself and provide them with plastic tips to prevent damage to the wire by the edge of the pipe? In this case, what tags should you use to search for these tips on the Internet for purchase? Or do we have to do them again ourselves?
3. Sockets, switches, etc. must be installed on the met. grounds. Do PUEs somehow regulate their thickness?
4. Is it allowed to lay cables, install switches and sockets on the external walls of the house (from the inside, of course).
5. Is it possible to use the same penetration and the same boxes for power cables and low current?
Thank you in advance!

Gregory:
05/05/2016 at 18:20
1. Turn on the logic.. the cable (CABLE, not WIRE) must be INSULATED from the flammable surface either by a layer of air or by a blanket of plaster. This means that you need: either non-flammable insulators that will push the cable away at a distance of at least 10 mm, or a layer of plaster at least 10 mm. What other staples, really.. that will press your cable to the tree? So that it burns better?) forget.
2. Buy a 3/4 STEEL pipe from Leroy. Saw off so that the pipe protrudes in both directions above the surface by 2 cm. Buy an electrical pipe with a diameter of 25 mm. It fits neatly inside the 3/4. Cut it off a cm more than the metal pipe. Wrap the ends with electrical tape so that it doesn’t fall out of the metal pipe. That’s it, you’re done.
3. Does not regulate, IMHO. I lay the cable in a tray 0.7 mm thick. Enough for burning. Take 0.7 mm and ground it. Double control.
If you don’t understand, write me an email and I’ll send you a photo.

Grigory.
4. The question is not clear. Expand the topic.
5. The weak point can be different. It’s better not to take risks and throw the weak point separately (against mice) in a PVC metal hose.

I recently installed wiring in sheds, I also did it with staples because I’ve read a lot of different articles about staples, VVGngP/VVGng 2*1.5 2*2.5
I’ll soon be putting it into corrugation and then consulted with electricians/firemen. The general conclusion is that you can use the brackets for your loved one, but if the firefighters come to check, they will screw you up and can shut down the house until it is fixed. and again, it’s your own house..
I read the PUE later. but even then, as a non-specialist, some subtleties require consultation.

Regarding the pipe in Leroy, it’s better to go to plumbing stores. The imported pipe is cheaper in Leroy, currently costs almost 800 rubles for two meters
in a plumbing store 260 rubles for two meters Russian.

Author of the site, please answer the following earlier questions asked(and it’s better to duplicate the answer in the article itself):
1. Should the electrical panel in which the machines are located also be metal, not plastic? Or can it be plastic, but must there be a metal base for the shield?
2. Are there any ready-made sleeves available for the passage of walls? Different diameters and lengths? Or you need to take simple gas pipes and make them yourself. And wouldn’t it be more correct to make the length of the pipe-sleeve such that there would be about 10 mm protruding on each side of the wall. Then cut threads at the ends and tighten this sleeve on both sides with thin nuts and washers?
And then, where can I get the bushings that are inserted into the pipe on both sides so as not to damage the cable? If I do it myself again, can you advise what to use and how to use it?
3. How to choose the correct cable channel size for a certain number of outgoing lines? (you can even make a separate article about this, since there are many combinations, at least for cables with a cross-section of 1.5 and 2.5 mm and different numbers of them in different, most popular combinations)

Please tell me, I started changing the wiring in a wooden house. IN cable channel laid the VVGngLS 3x6 flat cable. Then I saw that this cable is round and, apparently, with filler. The question arises: is it allowed to use a flat cable? Can I replace it with a round one?

Don't change anything. Performance properties they have the same ones. The filler just gives the round VVG a round shape.

Specifically on the question, there is no mistake, the PUE does not regulate whether the cable is flat or round. If it is really VVgNgLs, then everything is in order. The flat one closes more conveniently into the cable channel, the round one has a large bending radius.
The second point is, what device powers this cable and what rating is the circuit breaker selected to protect this line? This is too large a cross-section for sockets. More like an input cable for the main panel.

Thanks everyone for your help.
The cable runs from the box with the meter to the distribution board. The machine is set at 32A.

Any owner of a house or apartment wants the electrical wiring in his home to be of high quality and reliable. If experience and knowledge allow, wiring can be done correctly with your own hands, both in a panel and wooden house.

At first glance, if you install electrical wiring in a wooden house in accordance with the requirements of SNiP, PEU, there will be no problems. However, laying fireproof electrical wiring in a wooden house is actually doable, and you can choose which wiring to use.

Why should the VVGng cable be laid along the wall in a corrugated or cable duct? After all, VVGng is made in non-combustible insulation, and corrugated pipes and cable channels are made of ordinary plastic. Or do you need to use metal corrugated pipes and cable ducts? Something I haven’t seen at anyone’s dacha like this...

Why can’t I move in, from the photo you can see that the cable is all in a cable duct ON a wooden wall, without a cable duct it even comes into contact with the wall, but in my house it goes along the wall in a corrugated bracket on brackets and the wall itself is sewn up in plaster and now I don’t see the difference that I have the wiring done and the one shown here is external. What should I do, change everything or leave it?

Alexey, if the cable is run along a wooden wall, and then the wall is covered with plasterboard along the profile, then this is hidden wiring, not open.
SP 256.1325800.2016 “Electrical wiring in cavities above impenetrable suspended ceilings and inside prefabricated partitions are considered as hidden.” If there is something flammable inside the partition, such as wood, this is flammability class G4, with all the consequences of laying cables in metal pipes..
But according to PUE 7, the cable can be laid in the plaster strip.
Compromise on safety - You first had to sew strips of 9.5mm plasterboard, making a non-flammable gasket between the cable and the wooden surface, cover it with a second strip of the same on top, enclosing the cable in a non-flammable sheath, and then sew up the wall along the profile with plasterboard..

Something is not clear in a wooden house, is it possible that installation methods that cannot be used with hidden wiring are allowed with open wiring? What's the point in all this? At first I thought that the authors of the articles were different.

Good afternoon. Everywhere it is written that the passage through the wall must be made of a metal pipe, but when the cable is heated, everything is transferred to the combustible surface, especially if the pipe is thin. Why can't you use a plastic non-flammable pipe? What is it inferior to? The following question is also interesting: is it possible to do the wiring in the box if its dimensions allow it?

SP 31-105-2002 clause 13.5 I would very much like to hear your opinion on this system of regulatory documents in construction.

good afternoon! I have this problem: I have a short circuit on the switch, when you turn it off, the switch sparks and the meter makes a crackling noise!

And what do you turn off that sparks, an ordinary light bulb? In general, the switch cannot but short-circuit, this is its direct job - to close the contacts in the power circuit of the meter/fuse (machine)/switch/lamp/meter.

Good afternoon.
Where is it stated that sockets and switches must be attached through fireproof (metal) socket boxes to a wooden surface?
What rules can I refer to to prove to management?

Arkady Petrovich, there is no clear clause in the Rules that talks about the use of metal plates. The socket may also have a PVC base, but you just need to know for sure that the base is made of non-flammable material. Unfortunately, this is not always the case. You can’t even imagine how many sockets, socket boxes and corrugated pipes with the index “ng” are on the market, but in fact they actively support combustion. This is precisely why I recommend installing metal plates if you are not sure of the quality of the plastic products used. By the way, some series of sockets have a ready-made metal base, just for installation on wooden and other flammable surfaces, and in this case there is no need to make these same plates yourself.

SP 256.1325800.2016, clause 15.5 In buildings with building structures made of combustible materials of groups G2 and (or) G3, the following is allowed: open laying of single cables and wires in a protective sheath with copper conductors with a cross-section of no more than 6 sq. mm in PVC insulation designed according to GOST 31565 without lining; hidden laying of cables and wires under the plaster in a protective sheath with copper conductors with a cross-section of no more than 6 sq. mm in a flame retardant design, in accordance with GOST 31565 for the plaster marking.

Good afternoon
To the question asked earlier - is it necessary to lay something between the plastic switchboard and a wooden wall (lining) frame house? Thank you!

Dima. This something is a non-flammable spacer. Metal sheet, SML or DSP sheet. Asbestos is prohibited. A metal sheet between the wall and the ASU, connect to the main grounding bus. One hundred percent of the base is metal or stone. Plastic that does not melt at all is not used in sockets and switches. And if you add a little more imagination, you can imagine falling an overheated socket leaking self-extinguishing plastic onto a carpet that spreads fire perfectly (with magnificent toxic smoke to boot).
A certificate of NG plastic will be enough for the authorities to avoid imprisonment, if that happens).
Oleg.
The pipe also ensures that the cable passing through it is not damaged when the wall is deformed. The plastic is soft.
Wiring. It must be positioned so that it is accessible and visible not only to the author of the wiring. The cable usually heats up/burns first in places where there are poor connections. If the wiring is located in a tray/cable duct, in a bundle of transit and terminal cables/wires, when emergency situation this will damage the entire beam. It is necessary to preserve the functionality of the rest of the system by moving the dangerous area outside the main bundle, to the unsoldering. In the event of an accident, repairs will be easier and the damage less severe.

I took a couple of Kopos LKM45 universal boxes for open installation of series hidden installation, costs one dollar a piece. Self-extinguishing PVC 850°C, inside markings with three sides for a channel up to 40×20 mm; when installing directly on G4, the manufacturer recommends heat-insulating pads. Kopos’s ones are not metal, I don’t know what they’re made of, but they don’t contain asbestos. Box size 98×98×45 mm.
Next in the photos are frames 80x80 mm and 90x90 mm.

Hello. I’m worried in the full sense of the word: I discovered that the builders installed a PVA cable for lighting in the steam room. He urgently suspended the operation of the bathhouse. I bought RKGM 1x1.5 wire. Now the question is: can these wires (RKGM) be laid in the steam room directly on the lining between the ceiling and the wall and covered with a plinth? Sales consultants say that it is possible because the wire is heat-resistant up to 180 degrees. There is, of course, another option - to bring it to outside walls and lead directly into the steam room to the lamps.

Vladimir, the second option is better.
And if you cover it with a plinth, then at least in a corrugation, if space allows.... and don’t forget about the RCD