Installation of a shower cabin with a deep tray. Assembling a shower cabin with your own hands: do-it-yourself step-by-step assembly of shower cabins. Do-it-yourself communications and video of all stages of installing a shower cabin

It would seem that quite recently most of us only saw shower stalls in movies or in advertising magazines. This plumbing “unit” was perceived, rather, not as a convenient set for regular hygiene procedures, but as a luxury item, not accessible to everyone. But very little time passed, and the cubicle turned into a faithful assistant, sometimes even more useful than the bathroom familiar from childhood.

Yes, and think logically - do we use the bathroom so often these days? In the “era” of meters for hot and cold water, not everyone can afford to spend 100 liters for one procedure - perhaps to bathe a child. Doing laundry in bathrooms has also almost ceased - automatic washing machines, which also migrated from the “elite” category to the completely ordinary set of an ordinary family, have become responsible for this matter. But you can’t do without a shower. In addition, we must not forget about the eternal issue of insufficient space in bathrooms and toilets - and purchasing and assembling a shower cabin with your own hands in most cases immediately alleviates the severity of this problem.

Of course, if it is possible to have both, that’s great. But even in matters of ease of use, the shower stall leaves far behind the faucet. Modern models make the process of taking a shower very pleasant, sometimes even a healing procedure. And some of them, in addition, allow owners to even “not switch off from the media space” - IP or GSM communication channels or a built-in FM radio take care of this.

The article will give brief recommendations on choosing the right model, and, most importantly, the reader should get an answer to the question - will it be feasible for him to install a shower stall with his own hands, or is it better not to risk it and turn to the help of specialists.

“Basics” of shower stall design

To choose correctly and then correctly install, you need at least roughly understand its basic structure. Of course, there are a great many models of booths, but the general pattern of layout is respected for everything.

First of all, shower stalls differ in types of construction.

• Open cabins are, rather, simply a space fenced off for taking a shower - they consist of walls and a tray. Although, in some cases, a special tray may not even be used - if another way of collecting and draining water into the sewer is thought out, for example, reliably waterproofed floor with ladder.

Open-type shower stalls can be wall-mounted, but most often they are produced in a corner version - in this case, the role of the two walls of the stall is taken over by the tiled walls of the room. If the room has some complex configuration, then, if desired, you can choose a shower stall designed to be built into a niche. In this option, it becomes even simpler - three walls are already ready, and all that remains is to install the front one, with the entrance door.

Sometimes in reviews of such products, open stalls are called shower screens or shower enclosures.

• Closed booths can also be wall-mounted or corner, but they are already a completely insulated box, with a pallet and a mandatory roof, with very tight-fitting door leaves.

This design opens up wide possibilities for expanding the functionality of the cabin. Hydraulic nozzles for creating massage jets, various shower heads, special instruments and devices for aromatherapy are built into the wall and ceiling panels to provide the effect of a steam bath or sauna with infrared heating. In fact, an ordinary shower stall can become a kind of universal home bath and health complex.

• By the way, those apartment owners who If you would like to have a modern shower stall, but at the same time not give up having a bathroom (even in conditions where the space is cramped), we can recommend “hybrid” models. Such products, of course, are quite expensive, but they allow you to use the bathroom as needed, or transform it (completely or definite her area) into the shower stall.

Interesting design - combines both a bathtub and a shower stall

Now - about the main components, starting from the bottom.

Shower tray

The pallet is the “base” on which the entire structure of the shower stall is based. Plus, it must also withstand the considerable weight of a well-built adult being washed. In a word, the requirements for its strength are special.

Pallets can be made from various materials. From time to time you still come across metal ones (enameled cast iron or stamped steel). Much more often, booths are equipped with polymer pallets or made from special composite materials. The most common are acrylic or quarryl (quaril is a more advanced composition, which is a mixture of acrylic and quartz filler. The popularity of products made of artificial stone is a special polymer composite that perfectly imitates natural marble or granite.

The shape and size of the tray, in principle, largely determines the volume and spaciousness of the shower stall itself.

In shape they can be rectangular, pentagonal, a segment of ½ or ¼ circle, or take other rather complex configurations (for example, there are booths without doors in the shape of a “snail”). When choosing the right size, it is necessary to take into account that the space of the booth should not greatly restrict the movements of the person washing in it. This is especially important if there are very large or obese people in the family.

The minimum size of corner pallets is 800 × 800 mm, but this seems like too tight a space. Of course, one must always proceed from “territorial possibilities,” but if the area allows, then the best option would still be 900 × 900 mm or even 1000 × 1000. By the way, this is also important if, for some reason, someone family members will need to take water procedures in a sitting position.

It would seem that only 10 - 20 centimeters, but how radically different the cabins are in spaciousness

Now – the depth of the tray. According to this parameter, it can be flat, more than 30 ÷ 40 mm deep, medium or deep (with a bowl up to 180 mm). When choosing, again, you need to take into account the fact that sometimes not all family members will be comfortable climbing into the booth over the high side (the bowl itself is quite deep, plus the tray is located at a certain elevation from the floor level). But on the other hand, the function of reliable collection of water and its timely disposal to the sewer system must be fully respected.

Often, home craftsmen refuse the “standard” cabin tray and lay out their own - made of cement, with careful waterproofing, reliable drainage and lining with non-slip ceramic tiles. Then the walls of the booth are mounted on this ready-made homemade pallet.

Vertical shower enclosures

These elements include the frame, fixed walls, conventional or functional, and entrance doors of one design or another.

The frame, which is attached to the pallet and will serve as the basis for the walls of the booth, is usually made of lightweight and corrosion-resistant metal (aluminum) or plastic. Plastic frames, of course, are less durable, and they are often “disguised” as metal using surface painting - you need to be careful when choosing.

The enclosing walls themselves are made of either fiberglass or natural tempered glass. Fiberglass is lighter and cheaper, but its inexpensive varieties tend to gradually, under the influence of time, temperature and humidity, lose transparency and color saturation, become cloudy, and become covered with a network of microcracks. If you choose a plastic option, then it is better to immediately purchase a translucent one - on it the indicated shortcomings will be less significant and will remain invisible longer.

Glass walls are made of a very durable material, and you should not be afraid of breaking it - this is almost impossible, unless, of course, you set such a goal and use a heavy tool. And even in this case, the glass will shatter into small fragments of the correct shape, which should not represent injury hazard.

The back and side walls of some models are not just a fence, but perform many functions. It is on them that all plumbing fixtures are mounted, including various faucets, shower heads, massage hydraulic nozzles, steam generators, lighting systems and other “bells and whistles” with all the necessary mechanical or electronic control elements. On the back side of these walls there are all the necessary hydraulic and electrical wiring with connections to the water supply, electrical network and, if necessary, to other communications.

The doors to the shower stall can be hinged, sliding (folding or sliding) or rotary-sliding, rotating around a vertical axis.

From the point of view of ease of installation and practicality of operation, the usual swing doors, single or double leaf, are undoubtedly the leaders. But they also have a drawback - they require a certain space to open relative to the suspension axis. Large booths sometimes have doors that open inward. Well, in small models, during installation you will have to provide space for the sash so as not to accidentally injure yourself on it or break the door.

Sliding ones do not have this drawback - they move along guide “rails” using a system of suspended and thrust rollers. This adds some complexity to installation and adjustment work, but is quite convenient during use.

Typically, all vertical shower enclosures, regardless of the material of manufacture, are covered with a special hydrophobic material. This measure prevents drops of water from remaining on the walls - they simply flow down, without leaving characteristic whitish spots after drying.

Shower stall roof

This structural element, as already mentioned, is not found in all models, but where there is a cover, it performs several important functions:

• Firstly, it is the sealing of the cabin space, especially if it has the possibility of a “steam bath” or “aromatherapy”.
• Secondly, usually several plumbing devices are attached to the lid - a shower head, massage nozzles, etc.
• Thirdly, it is on the roof that the ventilation system is assembled with steam exhaust into the ventilation ducts of the house.
• And fourthly, various electrical devices, for example, speaker systems or lighting points, can be mounted on the cover.

Additional equipment for shower stall

Sometimes it seems that when it comes to additional equipment for shower stalls, some manufacturers are simply trying to “outdo” each other. So, in addition to regular showers, as already mentioned, various massage jets and “tropical rain” effects are used. Models with steam generators are in demand, especially with the ability to regulate the temperature of the steam and saturate it with aromatic or cosmetic compositions. There is a possibility of ionization (ozonation) of air. Mobile communications, radio, etc. are built into the booth media capabilities, original types of lighting are installed, voice control of all built-in functions. Is it worth paying a lot of money for such “bells and whistles” is a purely individual question.

But from the point of view of operational capabilities, one of the features should definitely be paid attention to. The fact is that shower cabins equipped with massage nozzles require a certain pressure at the water inlet. Very often there are situations when, after installation, the owner of the cabin is suddenly faced with the fact that the shower is barely flowing, and there is no question of hydromassage. And the reason is that it was necessary to compare the parameters of the model and the pressure in the water supply network. Thus, in high-rise buildings, usually the pressure rarely exceeds 1.5 ÷ 2 atmospheres (and on high floors it can even drop to critically low levels), and according to the equipment parameters, all 3 ÷ 4 atm may be required. This means that you will have to fork out more for an electric pump and a water receiver (hydraulic accumulator), from where water will be supplied to all hydraulic devices of the cabin at the required pressure.

Prices for popular models of shower cabins and corners

Shower cabins and corners

Shower stalls are produced by many manufacturers, both European and Asian, mainly from China. To the credit of our eastern friends, we can say that the quality of their products is becoming higher every year, and taking into account the relatively low price, their products pose quite serious competition to established brands. Moreover, many Chinese companies began to introduce European models in their own licensed version.

But almost all products from China have one big “sin”. If Europeans accompany their goods with carefully thought-out instructions (even if not in Russian, then they are not difficult to translate), then our eastern neighbors approach this issue somewhat differently. Perhaps the problem lies in the “difficulty of translation”, but, as a rule, “manuals” are incomprehensible, difficult to read text with a lot of errors, accompanied by rather carelessly executed illegible pictures. In a word, deal with it as you wish.

To help you assemble a standard insulated corner shower stall yourself, we suggest looking at this process in more detail with a step-by-step presentation. Of course, each of the models has its own characteristics, but the general principle will still be the same.

As an example, we take a Chinese-assembled shower stall of the “RANCHOS-406” type. It belongs to the category of corner cabins, with a quarter-circle tray, with a minimum number of options - in addition to a hand shower, there are six hydromassage nozzles on the rear panel, and a “tropical shower” on top. The size of the pallet (in radial calculation, from the corner to the circle line) is 900 mm.

The price for such shower stalls is quite “democratic”, about 14 ÷ 20 thousand rubles, and therefore it would probably be a little disappointing to pay another 5 ÷ 7 thousand for installation. Moreover, it is not particularly difficult.

• First of all, you need to prepare in advance the place where the booth will be installed. Its total weight, excluding the person washing it, is 83 kilograms, that is, the base must be strong and not have unstable areas.

• It is very important to ensure the required slope of water drainage, that is, the height of the drain hole of the pan above the inlet pipe to the sewer. In order for the water to flow confidently without stopping, an excess of 70 mm or a slope angle of at least 5 degrees is required. If this is not observed, then you will probably have to take action right away - either deepen the sewer pipes, or raise the booth by constructing a solid podium under it.

Prices for components for shower cabins

Accessories for shower cabins

Video: podium option for a shower stall

• It is clear that at the installation site it is necessary to provide for the supply of cold and hot water supply pipes, a power supply line equipped with a safety device on the panel -
• To work, you need to prepare a free area near the site of the future permanent installation - initially all actions will be carried out there. You should have the necessary tools on hand - wrenches (adjustable ones are better), screwdrivers or a screwdriver with a set of bits, a sharp construction knife, a syringe and tubes with silicone or acrylic sealant, a measuring tool - a tape measure and, of course, a construction level. There should be a little paint, about 50 g, for metal surfaces (it is best to use AkzoNobel “Hammerite”, which can be applied to rust), and, accordingly, a brush. The acrylic tray on the back side is quite dangerous from the point of view of getting cut wounds on the hands or driving deep splinters, so all work must be carried out with mittens (thick fabric gloves).

• Work begins with unpacking the set of the future cabin. You need to immediately make sure that all large parts are present and intact - Firstly, of course, glass. They are put aside for now so as not to be accidentally damaged.

The spare parts and accessories are immediately checked - very often there are some minor shortcomings

• The presence of all spare parts and accessories is immediately checked. If in terms of large components or accessories of precedents understaffing It has not yet been noted that in terms of fasteners, with a probability close to 100%, there will be some kind of shortage - either there will not be enough screws, or nuts, or M16 washers. Therefore, it is better to immediately check and create the necessary reserve - it will be a shame to be distracted in the midst of work because of such trifles.

Pay attention to the drain siphon (shown with a green arrow in the picture). As a rule, the one that comes with the kit does not stand up to criticism, and it is better to purchase a decent one in advance that you can rely on.

• The tray is turned upside down. The surface on which it will be be produced working with it should not scratch its front surface - you may have to lay it down with some soft material. Once again, warnings - all work is carried out only with mittens on your hands!

• Four pins are inserted into the mounting holes until they stop: three in the corners and one in the center of the arc. Under no circumstances should you tighten them with a key. The studs will not take a perfectly vertical position - don’t let this bother you, at the moment it doesn’t matter.

Nuts are screwed onto the studs approximately to the level of the bottom surface of the pan, and washers are installed on top of them (shown in the figure with green arrows).

• The metal racks of the pallet support are put on the studs. First, a solid, shorter beam is put on - it goes from the pin in the back corner to the arched front side. Then a second one is put on top of it, consisting of two halves welded on top with a metal plate.

When installing the first, short beam, you need to make sure that the threaded hole (nut) for installing the central support leg is on the outside, and from the crosshairs of the beams - closer to the front of the booth (shown by the green arrow).

Once again, for control, the prefabricated beam must be installed from above (shown by the white arrow), otherwise uniform pressure of the pallet to the supports will not be ensured, and its deformation may begin.

• After the beams are put on, the studs will take the required vertical position. The lower nuts can be adjusted so that the beams lie freely on the surface of the pallet. One more washer is put on top and the fixing nuts are tightened (shown with a green arrow). However, you should not tighten them yet.

• Now it’s the turn to fix the beams to the pallet using self-tapping screws. To do this, wooden inserts are poured into the thickness of the acrylic in the right places. Their location exactly matches the holes made in the metal profile. All that remains is to use a figured screwdriver to screw in the screws, after putting the washers included in the kit on them.

• After all the screws are completely screwed in, you can finally fix the beams on the vertically standing stud legs. This is done very carefully, with even forces from above and below, so as not to disturb the position of the squirrels and thereby not accidentally pull out the screw.

• Now here is an important point that is never mentioned in any Chinese factory instructions. The support beams are made of the most ordinary steel, which in conditions of high humidity will very quickly begin to rust and will not last long. This means that you need to take the time and paint over all suspicious areas with “Hammerite” paint (its color is absolutely not important). This precaution will create reliable protection against corrosion - the main thing is not to leave “bare” areas. By the way, the ends of the beams are plugged with plastic rectangular plugs, and underneath them, as a rule, there is metal already touched by corrosion. Be sure to remove the plugs, paint the cavity to the maximum available depth, and then put the plugs in place.

• The next step is to screw on the studs and pre-fix the legs with a locknut. You should not lock it too much, since the main alignment will still be done later, after installing the booth in its regular place. (In the picture, the arrow additionally shows a painted over and plugged hole in the metal beam).

Don’t forget to put on the brackets for attaching the decorative “apron”!

When installing the legs, you must remember to first put special brackets on the studs, which are necessary for installing a decorative “skirt” - a screen that covers the space under the bottom. True, it would be better to postpone this operation - mounting the screen - until the very end of the work.

• You can and should immediately pre-set the legs to the same height. In this case, a long building level (or a long rule with a level) is used so that control measurements can be taken both between adjacent legs and diagonally. In addition, the level of the central support leg must be checked. After this, the legs are pre-fixed with locknuts.

• You can turn the tray over and check its position on the floor. It must stand steadily, on five points of support at once. It is especially important to prevent the central leg from sagging - this could result in the surface of the pallet being pressed through.

• Now you can screw in the outlet valve with the plug for the pan (if, of course, you feel the need for this). This option, however, makes it possible to take foot baths and can be useful.

As already mentioned, it is better to change the siphon, although the picture shows a “Chinese”

• After this, the outlet siphon is installed in place. The picture shows the installation of the siphon included in the kit. However, as already noted, it is not of the best quality, and you should not skimp on a good one, elbow or bottle type, depending on the clearance from the floor below.
• The next difficult operation is assembling the block of front arc-shaped shower enclosures with side glass inserts.

The difficulty is that first you need to understand the purpose of the parts - they are not symmetrical at all. The upper curved guide is always wider, the lower one is much smaller in height, but has noticeable shaped cutouts at the edges.

Glass also has a different top and bottom. The difference is noticeable in the number of holes - there are more of them in the upper part.

An operation that requires special care is assembling the frame and fixed glass of the front guard

• To begin with, we assemble the structure, as they say, “by weight.” The glass has visible edges with grooves - they should fit well with the upper and lower guides.

• After this, the glass needs to be sequentially slightly pulled out from the groove - only in order to apply a small amount of silicone sealant there with a syringe (it is better to use transparent). Then the glass is inserted all the way into place, and the excess sealant that appears is immediately removed. This is very easy to do “fresh” with your finger dipped in a thick soap solution. There is a clamping clamp on the guide (shown by a green arrow). It is tightened with a screwdriver and the glass will be securely installed.

• Next, you need to install vertical posts along the outer contours of both glasses. There is a standard seal there, and there is no need to lubricate it with silicone. The stand is simply placed on the glass until it stops, and is fixed with arched guide screws at the top and bottom.

• All that remains is to put the included silicone seals on the inner edges of the installed glasses. At the same time, we make sure that the wider side, the “petal,” remains inside the booth. The seal is put on all the way, no special fixation or additional use of silicone is required in this case.

• The assembled unit should be immediately installed on the pallet. The pallet is not yet in its normal place, but must be completely stable and stand strictly horizontally - not superfluous will check this out.

This is especially important because the front arc-shaped guard with side windows is installed exclusively on the sealant, and, at first, before being fixed with the side walls, it stands only under the force of its own gravity. The designers do not provide any fastenings to the pallet with self-tapping screws. When applying sealant to the installation site, you must ensure that the water drainage grooves do not close.

Preparation for installation of side panels - the joint is coated with sealant

• It's time to install the side opaque panels. The places where they meet with the vertical posts of the front fence are generously coated with silicone sealant - gaps cannot be left here.

Similarly - at the place where the panels are attached to the pallet

Similarly, the sealant is applied to the pallet, in the area where the side wall will stand. And again, never fill water drains with sealant.

• Then, using self-tapping screws with washers on them, the vertical wall profile with vertical guide of the front guard, as well as the lower wall profile with pallet In both cases, special holes are provided for this. The screws are tightened tightly until they stop. Excess sealant that appears is immediately and carefully removed.

After installing both side walls, you should end up with a design like this. You can proceed to installing the back panel with controls and plumbing fixtures.

• To do this, in the same way as before, strips of silicone are applied to the joints of the vertical and horizontal parts - along the side wall posts and along the contact line on the pallet.

It is important to first attach everything, and only then tighten the connecting screws tightly

• Now you can carefully install the back panel and secure it at the fastening points with self-tapping screws. To begin with, just grab it in order to attach all the fasteners, since a small amount of play may be required. After this, all screws are tightened completely, excess sealant is removed, just as before.

The back panel is installed. It is recommended to leave the structure for a day - let the sealant dry

It is recommended to leave the structure in this position for a day - during this time the sealant is completely vulcanized, will harden, and the assembled cabin will gain the required strength. Only after this should you move on to hanging the doors.

• And during this time you can prepare the doors for hanging. Silicone sealing inserts are installed along the vertical edges of the curved glass sheet. The one that is placed on the outer edge of the glass should be oriented with the “petal” outward, and the one going along the inner edge - vice versa.
• The rollers, upper and lower, are inserted and secured into the standard sockets. The upper ones are adjustable and are temporarily fixed in the uppermost position for initial installation. The lower ones are simply spring-loaded, push-on - they will allow you to pull them back when installing the door.

• After the time required for the sealant to harden has elapsed, the doors are suspended by the upper rollers on the upper guide; the lower rollers, after temporary pressing, should stand on their “rail”. Now, by tightening the adjustment screws of the upper rollers, it is necessary to achieve, firstly, reliable suspension, without play, secondly, smooth closing and opening, without wedging, and thirdly, uniform convergence of the sashes along the entire vertical line, so that There were gaps left for splashes of water to penetrate.

• All adjustment screws must subsequently be closed with plastic plugs. The door is checked for “operability”. After this, you can proceed to installing the upper part of the cabin - its roof.

The main part is the roof cap, on which several elements are mounted

• At its core, the roof is a ready-made shaped part, but several additional elements must be mounted into it. These are a “tropical rain” shower, exhaust fans and an acoustic head - a speaker for connecting to a radio or telephone.

Fans are attached to self-tapping screws...

• The fans are fastened with self-tapping screws to the places prepared for them. You can often hear complaints that the alignment of the holes does not match. Well, you will have to work with a drill or screw a self-tapping screw into the plastic “live”. It’s not scary - this place will still be covered from below with a decorative cap.

...and a speaker. It is advisable to coat the contact area with sealant

• The speaker mounting is not much different - the same screws. By the way, both when installing the speaker and when installing fans, it would be useful to coat the seat with silicone sealant - this will become a kind of gasket and will reduce noise - the fan will not resonate much.

Installing a tropical shower nozzle with a water supply hose

• The shower head for a “tropical shower” is first secured in its socket with a special nut, and then a flexible hose is connected to it, which will subsequently go to the hydraulic unit of the rear panel of the cabin. The connection is very simple - with a clamp, and should not cause any problems.

The roof looks much nicer from below...

That's it, the roof can be lifted and installed to the booth on the same sealant is used on standard metal fasteners.

• There are still a bunch of small parts left in the kit - shiny door handles, shelves, mirrors, shower holders - all of this is neatly installed on standard fasteners.
• Next, you need to very carefully move the booth to its place, where it will already be located permanently. This installation must be preceded by connecting the booth to sewerage, to water supply highways and electrical communications. All connection points are located on the back side of the rear panel, and later there will be no access here. The connection is made with special flexible hoses, and a terminal cable connector is provided for electrical switching. To connect the booth, if you lack plumbing and electrical experience, it is better to contact the appropriate specialists or friends who are knowledgeable in these issues.
• After the booth is connected, be sure to once again carefully check the horizontal position of its position and the uniform fit of the support legs to the surface or podium. If something happens, it’s not too late to make adjustments. It is also recommended to securely fix the legs, for example, by “placing” them on a layer of silicone sealant.

After connecting to all communications and a thorough practical check, you can consider the booth installed and complete the installation with a decorative “apron”

• Next, it is necessary to carry out “sea trials” - arrange a full washing cycle using all modes. The main goal is to make sure that the booth is stable, the tray does not creak or “walk,” the doors and walls do not warp and do not allow water splashes or drips to pass through.
• Now you can take the final step - install a decorative “skirt” on the brackets, which will close the gap between the floor and the pallet and give the entire booth a finished look.

And finally, another video about the installation of a simpler corner open-type booth.

Video: DIY installation of a corner shower screen

Most domestic apartments cannot boast of spacious rooms, and bathrooms are most often small and compact.

It is not possible to install a full-fledged lying-in bathtub in a small bathroom, so the owners of such bathrooms are increasingly paying attention to shower cabins.

The shower cabin is considered ideal for a small bathroom, which will allow you to wash comfortably, but will not critically clutter the room. A modern one will fit perfectly next to the cabin, so in many cases such a device is the only correct solution for the bathroom.

Shower cabin equipment

To choose a suitable shower cabin, you should not immediately go to a specialized store and choose the model you like “by eye”. Experts advise first familiarizing yourself with the types of cabins and choosing several that are suitable in size for a particular bathroom.

ADVICE! To visualize the future cabin, it is recommended to glue a sheet of paper to the size of the tray of the selected model and place it on the floor in the bathroom: in this way you can choose the ideal place for the cabin.

The main criterion should not be external attractiveness, but maximum comfort and practicality. In addition, it is important to take into account the size of the bathroom: the shower stall should fit harmoniously into the interior, and not clutter the room and deprive it of space.

The standard configuration of a shower cabin includes the following elements:

• pallet and pallet apron;
• back panel;
• vertical racks;
• door guides and sliding doors;
• upper dome

Before starting work, you should carefully check the availability of all components, check the quality, reliability and integrity of all parts.

Unpack and lay out all structural elements.
Check that all parts are included according to the instructions.

Each shower cabin is supplied with assembly instructions. But all instructions, as a rule, turn out to be quite general and approximate. So you can’t do without getting acquainted with additional information.

Preparatory work: tools and supplies

Since installing a cabin is a rather complex and responsible process, before starting work you should carefully check not only the readiness of all components and necessary tools, but also the condition of the floor. To install a shower stall, the floor must be perfectly flat and with sufficient waterproofing.

It is necessary to waterproof the floor where the shower is installed

To install a shower stall, you should have the following tools:

• washers on M16;
• flexible water hoses and high-quality siphon;
• high-quality silicone sealant and waterproofing FUM tape;
• building level, sharp knife, Phillips and slotted screwdrivers, wrenches;
• paint, brushes;
• gloves.

Stages of assembling and connecting the shower cabin

If the owner has decided not to hire workers to install a shower stall, but to do this work himself, then it is important to understand the necessity and responsibility of this process.

The main tasks that must be performed when installing a shower cabin:

• Connecting the structure to the water supply.
• Power supply to the cabin.
• Sewage connection.
• The most thorough and sound sealing of all joints and seams.

Assembling a shower stall is not easy, and doing it in a small bathroom is also inconvenient. Therefore, experts advise adhering to strict recommendations on the order of work, which will simplify the process as much as possible and guarantee a good result.

ADVICE! Ideally, the assembly of the shower cabin should be carried out by specialists, because the process requires the skills of a plumber and electrician. If the owner is not confident in his skills, then calling a specialist will be the best solution.

The first stage of work on assembling the shower cabin is pallet assembly. To do this, the pallet must be turned upside down and the long pins must be screwed into place. After the nuts and washers are screwed onto the studs, you can put the frame directly on. As a standard, the tray is made of fiberglass, so be careful when working with it (work with gloves).

We set the length of the legs according to the level

After all the fasteners are screwed in, the pallet is adjusted to the floor level: as a rule, brackets are installed under the legs, which are the support for the pallet.

Siphon connection

When the pallet is finally secured, the next step is siphon connections. Most often, an automatic siphon (foot drain plug) is used for these purposes. To carry out the work correctly, you must use only a high-quality siphon, and not a curved piece of pipe, and work with a plumbing wrench.

At the same time you should start water supply connection. To do this, it is important to provide a tee for cold and hot water. In this case, it is important to carefully treat all joints with special sealants or FUM tape to eliminate possible leaks. All joints should be checked several times to avoid leaks after the final installation of the cabin: in this case, much more work will have to be done.

Electrical connection diagram

The vast majority of modern shower cabins require connecting power supply, therefore, in the bathroom it is necessary to install a special socket in advance for rooms with high humidity.

FACT! The best place for an outlet is considered to be the wall at the back or side of the cabin.

After completing these works, you can begin installation of walls. Assembly in each specific case depends on the model of the shower cabin and its design features. The standard method of fastening is ordinary bolts, and roller mechanisms are used for doors.

At the same time, some unscrupulous manufacturers may save on the fastening system: if there are any doubts about the reliability of certain fastening mechanisms, it is preferable to replace them with more durable and high-quality ones.

ADVICE! When installing shower cabin panels, do not tighten the screws immediately - they will probably need to be adjusted during the installation process.

When assembling, you should work according to the following scheme:

• lubricate all the grooves with sealant and carefully insert the glass into them;
• fasten the stand to the arch using self-tapping screws;
• put a seal on the glass;
• coat the place for the main guide in the pallet;
• install glass with due care;
• Treat all joints and contact points with sealant.

Once the walls are installed, you can begin door installation: Typically, shower doors operate on top and bottom rollers. The door closing mechanism can be adjusted by adjusting the rollers to achieve the best closure of the walls.

The last stage of work on installing and assembling the shower cabin is roof installation. A watering can with a hose, a fan and a speaker are mounted into the roof structure. When carrying out work, it is extremely important to seal all elements with sealant to avoid noise and water leaks.

The installed and connected cabin must be checked: the legs should be adjusted so that the pallet is level, all elements should be adjusted and all joints checked for leaks, and possible unnecessary noise (for example, from a speaker) should be eliminated. They take a shower in the installed cabin and, based on the results of the procedure, carry out modifications.

In the next article we will tell you how to do it yourself.

Do you want to save space in your bathroom by installing a shower? The bathroom is a place of relaxation that should be practical and aesthetically pleasing, right? Are you planning to do all the installation work yourself, but are you confused about installing a shower tray and connecting plumbing?

We will show you how to cope with this task - the article discusses the important points that you will encounter during installation. We also paid attention to the features of pallets made of various materials, describing in detail the installation process of each option.

To help the novice plumber, we have selected photographic materials demonstrating important nuances, and a video describing in detail the assembly and installation of a compact shower cabin.

Manufacturers are ready to surprise the most sophisticated owner, offering many shapes, sizes and design options.

One of the first classifications is the division of models by shape. These can be square, oval, round, triangular, rectangular products.

It is worth choosing the shape and size of the tray that will distribute the space in the bathroom as ergonomically as possible with the appropriate level of convenience.

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No. 4 - installation of ceramic and marble models

Ceramic and marble sanitary ware are trending today. Shower trays are no exception. Such products are durable and massive, so they do not require the use of legs or reinforcing elements.

The installation method is selected depending on the design of the pallet.

There are two options:

1. Niche design. Many ceramic models have a niche in the tray cavity for installing a siphon and draining the sewer system. Such a tray simply needs to be connected to the sewer and installed directly on the bathroom floor without any additional steps. All that remains is to attach the walls of the shower stall.
2. Monolithic option. In this case, in order to connect the drain hole to the siphon, you will need to build a pedestal. Inside it there will be space for connecting to the sewer.

The construction of the pedestal occurs as follows. We apply a layer of waterproofing to the area where the pedestal will be built.

To do this, you can use liquid rubber, roofing felt, polyurea or other composition. You must wait for complete polymerization if you used a liquid product.

Any modern version of liquid compounds can be used as waterproofing, which, after application, polymerize and create a waterproof layer

Inside the contour of the pallet we make brickwork with a height that would be enough for the normal location of the siphon. It is necessary to provide a cavity for the drainage system.

We connect the drain hole, the reverse end of which is connected to the outlet pipe. Apply a layer of cement mortar on top of the masonry.

DIY pallet construction

The process begins with preparing the future space for the shower stall.

Step 1. To begin with, the installation area is waterproofed, as in the previous paragraph. This will help protect the walls and floors from mold, mildew and dampness.

The process of making a pallet yourself includes the following steps:

The drain hole is immediately connected to the sewer system. The installation must be very tight, so you can use glue and sealants on all threaded connections.

When purchasing a drain for a homemade pallet, you cannot save money. Choose a quality product that fits in size and will last as long as possible.

Step 3. Now you need to lay the base (use brickwork or rough screed) after the waterproofing composition has dried.

We lay the walls using silicate or ordinary bricks. Before this, you need to put a metal mesh on the base to make the structure solid.

We treat the entire base of the pallet with waterproofing material. After it dries, we apply a layer of screed over the entire surface of the pallet to hide all the brickwork behind it.

It is important that the screed has a minimum slope towards the drain so that water does not accumulate after using the shower stall. After drying, apply the penultimate layer of waterproofing.

Step 4. Leveling the surface of the pallet. To do this, you can use a self-leveling mixture. We apply the final layer of waterproofing and cover the pallet with tiles. It can be mosaic or any other tile.

Tile or mosaic cladding

In many cases, side cladding is required to hide the mounting bases. One of the most convenient options for solving the problem is to use mosaic tiles on a plastic or glass base.

A layer of glue is applied to the base using a notched trowel. After pressing the tiles, excess adhesive must be removed immediately.

With the help of mosaic, you can cover any uneven surfaces, since it can be easily cut with construction scissors or a knife thanks to its paper base.

It doesn't matter whether you use tiles or mosaics, all seams need to be sealed. This especially makes sense when you've decided.

The space between the pallet and the floor can be closed using mosaic or tile cladding. Mosaic fragments are flexible and allow you to quickly and efficiently line the sides or the entire pallet if you build it yourself

When forming seams, use crosses. After facing, you need to grout the seams using waterproof grout and a rubber spatula. Then the remaining grout is removed and everything is wiped with a piece of cloth. After everything has dried, you need to wash the tiles.

Strengthening a steel or acrylic product

These solutions, especially acrylic ones, do not have a strong enough structure. Measures to increase strength come down to installing supporting elements, which can be bricks.

It is important that the pallet presses on all supports with equal force, otherwise one of them may simply push through the bottom

In this case, all supports in places of contact with the bottom must follow its shape. For this you can also use gaskets made of paronite or rubber.

Some complete ones have a greater height of the fence and tray, for the installation of which the ceiling height may not be sufficient. In this case, you need to make a excavation of the floor in order to install the tray and connect it to the drain.

Conclusions and useful video on the topic

How to install a shower stall correctly:

Installing a shower tray with the right approach does not take much effort and does not require special training. If you follow the instructions, you will get a first-class installation of a monolithic pallet with the highest possible reliability.

Do you have anything to add or have questions about installing a shower tray? Share your opinion and leave comments on the publication. The contact form is located in the lower block.

Just ten to fifteen years ago, a shower stall was a luxury item. But now more and more people are getting rid of their old oversized bathtubs and installing a shower instead.

This allows you to increase free space, which is usually not enough in city apartments. The current range of such booths is quite wide, but choosing the right model is not enough - it still needs to be installed and connected to communications. You will learn about this and much more after reading this article.

Note! Installation work is not as complicated as it might seem. But in order to avoid possible problems, you must first decide on the main types of booths.

A shower stall is a closed box for carrying out hygiene procedures. There are a lot of models, but they can all be divided into two large groups.

1. Open

The space of open booths is limited only by the walls of the box and bathroom. Such designs are also called shower enclosures.

Such models are expensive, but installation is carried out quickly and without any problems (taking into account the fact that leveling and waterproofing of the floor and walls will be required).

Note! In most cases, shower enclosures are installed in small apartments, where installing a full-size shower is impossible due to a lack of free space. But if the bathroom area is too small, then a corner should be selected with a transparent door that opens inward.

2. Closed

In closed cabins, in addition to walls, there is also a bottom and a “ceiling”. Simply put, they are completely closed. Such booths can be of various sizes, but usually from 0.7x0.7 m to 2x2.1 m. They are also divided into simple and multifunctional, while the latter provide a number of additional options:

• aromatherapy;
• hydromassage;
• "Summer shower;
• color treatment;
• "sauna";
• radio.

The installation and connection of the shower is quite easy to handle; you just need to follow the manufacturer’s instructions and apply maximum effort to the work.

Stage 1. Selecting a location for installation

The location for installing the shower enclosure must meet two requirements:

Stage 2. Assembly

Installation begins with assembling the structure, which will help you understand all the nuances of the connection and determine its actual dimensions.

Note! Regarding assembly technology, we will not advise anything here, since everything depends on the design features of a particular model. As mentioned earlier, only the manufacturer’s instructions can help with this.

Stage 3. Connection to the sewerage system

The connection should begin with the installation of the pallet. Below are recommendations regarding this procedure.

1. The pallet should be installed strictly horizontally, so it is better to use a long building level.
2. The cabin is always supplied with special supports, with the help of which the horizontal level of the pallet is adjusted. If desired, you can attach an additional support in the center.
3. The pallet should be positioned perpendicular to the wall.
4. The floor must be perfectly level (the same level is used). If this is not achieved, the pallet will not adhere tightly enough to the walls and, as a result, a leak will occur.

After assembling the pallet, the actual connection begins. Here is the sequence of actions.

Step 1. All elements of the apron are removed.

Step 2. Part of the pallet is lifted.

Step 3. A corrugated hose is placed on the drain elbow located at the bottom of the pan (a special side nipple is provided for fastening). This hose will connect the cabin to the sewer.

Step 4. The second end of the hose is fixed to the drain located in the floor.

Step 5. The pallet is put in place.

Note! Extremely high-quality installation can only be achieved if the floor in the room is perfectly flat and the walls are located at an angle of 90ᵒ.

Before the assembly of the structure begins, a “test” drain is carried out. It is much easier to correct all mistakes before completing the installation of the shower enclosure.

Stage 4. Water supply

Proper connection of the cabin to the water supply system plays an equally important role. To do this, you need to use only high-quality pipes and connecting fittings. Moreover, all connections should be carefully sealed.

Connection requirements

1. The pipeline is laid along the baseboard or hidden altogether.
2. Water to the shower is supplied from under the sink.
3. At least one water filter is cut into the pipeline.

Step-by-step instruction

Step 1. First, the water supply is shut off, then the hot/cold water taps in the bathroom are opened - this will reduce the pressure in the system to the required level.

Step 2. The old shower is removed - to do this, use pliers to loosen and remove all fasteners.

Step 3. Using the same pliers, unscrew the old coupling. Each section of the pipeline is equipped with compression fittings.

Step 4. The fittings are coated with lubricant (preferably machine oil). The booth adapters are screwed in and tightened with pliers.

Step 5. In accordance with the instructions, anchors are attached; if necessary, slightly larger holes are made. Then the screws are screwed in.

Note! It is advisable to cover the fastening area with masking tape, otherwise there is a possibility of damaging the tile during operation.

Step 6. The hoses are connected to the adapter fittings, the connections are clamped.

Step 7. The shower panel is attached to the anchors. Fastening starts from the top. Water pipes are attached to the outer part of the panel, and decorative plates are installed.

Step 8. System functionality is checked. The water supply is restored to the riser and all connections are checked for leaks. Only after this the handle is attached.

All that remains is to secure the walls. This must be done in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions, using silicone sealant and sealing gaskets.

Final touches

Upon completion of the assembly, a number of other activities need to be carried out regarding the final arrangement of the shower stall.

1. Electricity

Only those models that have a hydromassage function or a steam generator are connected to the electrical network. An insulated three-core wire with a cross-section of 3 cm² is used.

2. Ceiling panel

Usually the ceiling comes with the booth. In this case, a hose with a watering can and other components are connected to the ceiling - a speaker, lamps and everything that is provided by the manufacturer. The joints formed between the speaker and the panel are treated with sealant to prevent “humming”.

The ceiling is installed on the corresponding fasteners located in the upper part of the structure. The joints in this case are also treated with sealant.

3. Accessories

Step 1. Rollers are installed at the top and bottom of the doorway. The rollers located on top are turned out as much as possible before installation.

Step 2. The door is trimmed around the perimeter with sealing material and put in place.

Step 3. To determine the optimal position, the upper rollers are adjusted.

Step 4. The screws that secure the rollers are closed with decorative plugs.

Step 5. Install the rest of the fittings - mirror, handles, etc.

Upon completion of installation, final testing is carried out. As mentioned above, all connections are made airtight, and the tray should not creak during operation (otherwise the position of the legs under it must be adjusted again).

Operating and cleaning the shower stall

For all models, regardless of type, the operating rules are the same. Only the cleaning products differ - the choice of one or another depends on the material from which a particular structural element is made.

When operating, you need to remember some requirements.

It is also worth noting that cabin cleaning is divided into several types according to frequency.

Video - Washing the shower stall

conclusions

Installing a shower stall is quite simple; it requires only minimal skills in handling plumbing and the necessary instructions. In the absence of the first or second, it is better to entrust the installation to a specialist.

Video - Instructions for installing a shower cabin