Installation of tiles. Laying ceramic tiles and roofing elements. Video - Technology for laying ceramic tiles

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It will not be a secret to anyone that one of the most popular and, no less important, quality materials used for roofing is a roof made of ceramic tiles. Thereby natural coating Living conditions in the house remain comfortable at any time of the year, both summer and winter. Moreover, the range of material profiles is wide, color palette also varied. Known fact is also the fact that the installation of a roof made of ceramic tiles is possible on those roofs that have the most complex shapes and curved planes, and therefore the popularity of the coating during construction country cottages is only increasing.

However, the installation process should be approached with extreme caution, since ceramics are a rather fragile material, and the considerable weight of ceramic tiles only complicates the work on its installation.

That is why, before proceeding directly to installation work, you should familiarize yourself in more detail with such a material as ceramic tiles, the characteristics of which require a special approach. Thus, it is recommended to use the coating on those roofs roof slope which ranges from 10 to 90 degrees. If there are slopes with an angle of 10 to 22 degrees, then it is necessary to lay an additional waterproofing layer, usually represented by a modified roll coating. If the tiles are laid on a roof with a slope of more than 50 degrees, then they should be additionally secured with screws. In addition, a reinforced frame must be made, a special surface for which must be equipped and an installation technology corresponding to the profile must be selected.

Laying the rafter system and roof pie

When installing a ceramic tile roof, it is important to perform the installation correctly load-bearing structure, which consists, first of all, in strengthening the rafter legs, since the load on roofing is 40 – 60 kilograms per 1 m². Therefore, well-dried wood (maximum 15% humidity) should be used as a material for rafters. The section of the beam should be 50x150, and a beam with a section of 60x180 will help to further enhance the strength of the structure. When calculating the distance between the rafter legs, you should remember that the longer they are, the smaller the step between them should be.

After installing the rafter system, it is necessary to install insulation equipped with a vapor barrier. It will be sealed with construction tape, which must be used to seal the material. The rafter end is equipped with a counter-lattice, which provides a ventilation gap of 50 millimeters between the insulation and waterproofing layers, due to which the space under the roof is provided with normal air access. After this, you need to lay waterproofing on the counter-lattice and nail the lathing, which is the basis for the roofing, perpendicularly to the rafters.

Thus, laying ceramic tiles is invariably accompanied by the installation of sheathing, which has a very great importance when installing a roof. Its basis is wooden beam, having a cross-section of 40x40 or 40x50 millimeters. The width of the eaves board, which should be laid 20 - 30 millimeters higher than the rest, can be 100 millimeters. Thus, the laying of tiles on the slope will be level, and the space under the roof will be ventilated.

Then you need to calculate the pitch of stuffing the material on the rafter legs. The easiest way to do this is to subtract the overlap for installation from the width of the tiles. The indicator will be approximately 310 - 345 millimeters, and the width of the tiles will be 400 millimeters. Markings for rows should be made with a cord attached to the counter-lattice.

Laying ceramic tiles

When working with a material such as ceramic tiles, the sizes and types of which directly affect the installation technology, you should know the types of this coating.

Today construction market offers the following options:

• flat tiles. It should be laid from bottom to top, and 2–3 layers can be used at once;
• grooved tiles. Stacked from left to right;
• groove tiles. Laying starts from the cornice and moves upward.

Ceramic roofing is very beautiful, but quite expensive. If you good master, you can try to save on installation. Now I will tell you how to lay ceramic tiles yourself.

Material calculation

To calculate the number of tiles you need to know the size of the roof, but not only that. The tiles are laid with an overlap, the amount of overlap is determined depending on the slope of the slope:

• Up to 16 degrees – from 10 cm;
• Up to 30 – from 8;
• Over 30 – from 7.

Ceramic tiles are laid on the roof using counter-lattice and sheathing. The second serves as a solid base for the coating, the first provides the necessary ventilation gap.

For the sheathing, sawn coniferous timber with a maximum moisture content of 25%, without knots, is used (SNiP, paragraph II-25-80).

• The pitch of the sheathing (and therefore the number of boards) depends on the slope of the roof and on the model of the tile (order - from 30 centimeters);
• The minimum cross-section of beams for sheathing and counter-lattice is 3 by 5 centimeters;
• For complex roofs or long slopes, use a square beam with a side of 5 cm.

To calculate the amount of material and its final cost, you can use the services of our company.

Ventilation and thermal insulation

The technology for laying ceramic tiles involves a device ventilation system in the under-roof space. This is necessary so that inside roofing pie condensation did not accumulate, which leads to the destruction of insulation and rafter system.

There are two options for constructing a roofing pie. In both cases, the main layers are the same:

• Vapor barrier (bottom layer);
• Insulation;
• Waterproofing.

The difference between single-layer and double-layer ventilation is that in the single-layer version there is only one air layer, directly between the waterproofing and the roof. Two-layer means the presence of two layers, the second - between the waterproofing and insulation.

The choice of technology depends on waterproofing material. Only membranes with a vapor permeability of at least 750 grams per square can be placed directly on the insulation, which will protect the insulation from moisture and drain condensation to the outside.

note

The total height of the ventilation gap must be at least 20 centimeters. With a two-layer scheme, about two centimeters are left from the insulation to the film.

Apart from the device air gaps For roof ventilation when laying ceramic tiles, special elements are used:

• Skates;
• Cornice.

The types of elements are different:

• Hard aerators;
• Rolled ventilation films;
• Ventilation grates;
• Ventilation tiles.

Elements are selected depending on the type and slope of the roof.

The brand of insulation and layer thickness depend on the region. Examples (for roofs in the Moscow region):

• Mineral wool P175 (thermal conductivity coefficient 0.072) – 40 centimeters;
• Fiberglass (coefficient 0.044) s windproof membrane– 24 centimeters;
• Expanded polystyrene (0.032) - 15 centimeters.

Insulation and waterproofing

1. The vapor barrier layer is attached to the rafters from the inside (from the ceiling) with vertical and horizontal overlaps of at least twenty centimeters.
2. Fixed wooden slats. In the future, when arranging the ceiling, the panels (boards) should not come into contact with the vapor barrier.
3. The insulation is cut into blanks according to the width of the step between the rafters and placed between the rafters in a spacer.

Installation options for the top waterproofing layer

1. Installation of the film directly onto the insulation is carried out with the steam-removing side facing outwards, i.e. towards the roof covering.
2. The film should be rolled out along the eaves along the rafters, starting from the bottom row.
3. The recommended overlap when installing the next row is approximately 10 cm for steep roofs. If the slope is less than 22 degrees, it is increased to 20 cm or the joints are taped with double-sided tape.

note

The film is secured with a stapler or roofing nails and finally fixed with counter-lattice boards.

Other methods:

• When using polyethylene-based membranes, the film is pulled over the rafters with a sag of one or two centimeters. At the same time, at least two centimeters should remain from it to the insulation. In cold weather, the film is stretched without sagging.
• With a small roof slope (within 16 centimeters), a welded roof can be used as a waterproofing layer. To do this, it is necessary to make a continuous flooring and fill it with trapezoidal counter-lattice slats up to 5 centimeters thick.

Our works

Lathing and counter-lattice

1. Along the rafters, on top of the waterproofing film, we lay counter-lattice bars approximately 1.3 meters long.
2. We fix it with galvanized nails every 0.3 meters not higher than the marker line on the film.
3. At the joints of opposite beams on the ridge, we saw the boards at an angle so that the joint is even. The angle of the cut will depend on the slope of your roof.
4. Between the beams of the valley or hip ridge and the main counter-lattice we leave a ventilation gap of about 10 centimeters.
5. We lay the sheathing beams parallel to the earth's surface, starting from the overhangs.
6. The step between the first two bars (on the overhang) is from 32 to 39 cm (measured along the outer edges of the bars).
7. We place the third block under the ridge, at a distance of three centimeters from the joint of the counter-lattice bars. If the roof is steeper than 30 degrees - at a distance of two centimeters.
8. We measure the distance between the second and third beams along their upper edges.
9. We divide the resulting figure by the number of intermediate bars so that the step between them does not exceed the recommended parameters:

• Roof slope up to 22 degrees – 31-32 cm.
• Up to 30 – up to 33.5;
• Over 30 – up to 34.5.

We install the sheathing on other slopes in the same way.

How to lay ceramic tiles

Attention: in this article I will only tell you how to lay ordinary ceramic tiles, i.e. on the slopes. In addition to slopes, the roof has other nodes:

• Endovy;
• Ridge (except hipped roofs);
• Cornices;
• Connections (to pipes, skylights etc.);
• Gables have pediments;
• The hip and tent ones have ridges.

Another article is devoted to the installation of all these elements.

Tile laying technology:

1. Check the roof prepared for laying ceramic tiles for deviations from the plane. For two meters of roof, deviations for sheathing beams should not exceed half a centimeter.
2. Lay out the tiles on opposite slopes in columns of five to six tiles.
3. Lay out two rows, top and bottom, without fastening. If the length of the roof and the width of the tiles are non-multiple numbers, use half tiles.
4. Mark the outer rows of tiles on the sheathing. Additional marking - after 3-5 intermediate rows.
5. The bottom row of shingles should extend beyond the roof by one-third the diameter of the gutter running under the eaves.
6. Lay tiles from bottom to top. Secure the first row with 4.5 mm by 5 centimeter screws or anti-wind clamps.
7. On gable roofs The tiles are laid in the direction from one end to the other.
8. On the hips - from the middle of the slope, which needs to be beaten off with a marking cord from the top to the middle of the cornice.

note

You need to lay tiles on triangular slopes in the following order:

• Middle vertical row;
• Bottom horizontal row:
• Second row from the bottom, from the middle to the ridges;
• Third, etc. to the top.

Which tiles should be fastened with hardware?

• Bottom row (cornice);
• Upper (at the ridge);
• Lateral (at the ends and ridges);
• Any trimmed tiles;
• At the junctions.

If the area is characterized by large wind loads, you need to fasten all the tiles.

For different models tiles, screws (self-tapping screws) 4.5 by 50 galvanized or universal clamps made of stainless steel can be used.

Laying ceramic tiles with your own hands is a long and energy-intensive process that requires highly qualified installers. Moreover, we are talking about expensive material.

At our company great experience laying roof coverings, ceramic tiles are no exception. Entrust this matter to us, and you will receive a beautiful quality roofing quickly and inexpensively.

Every day, environmentally friendly, strong and durable ceramic tiles are becoming more and more popular in Russia and other CIS countries. Until recently, such roofing was in demand only in Europe, and in our country there were often either metal or bitumen shingles, rather ineptly imitating the real thing. What changed? Import to the foreign market natural tiles, with improved geometry and stunning design!

A house with such a coating looks so advantageous against the background of surrounding buildings that today there are a lot of people who want to study the installation of ceramic tiles and make the roof of their new family nest real armor. And now we will reveal to you all the technical secrets!

Depending on which tiles you choose for your roof, the complexity of its installation will depend. We have prepared for you detailed master classes, how to work with each type, which ones are needed additional tools and what you will have to face in the process.

Here's how different the installation of the five most popular types of ceramic tiles is:

Interlocking groove tiles: laying on tenons

Today, tiles with a lock are actively produced. In their upper part there is a moving zone, or displacement zone. Thanks to it, rows of tiles can be moved along the slope, and the tightness of the roof is not compromised at all. This is very convenient if ceramic tiles are transferred to new roof, which has a completely different pitch of the sheathing - the covering will be easy to adjust.

The groove tiles have special spikes on the back side, and they are used to hook it to the sheathing during installation. In practice, everything is quite simple!

Here's how to properly install interlocking shingles:

Flat tiles: beaver tiles of various shapes

Another beautiful and popular type of tile is beaver tail, or beaver. According to the configuration of the lower edge, I make it semicircular, rectangular and triangular. It does not have locks, only a profiled spike on the bottom of the tile, which is attached to the batten.

Due to the absence of locks, these tiles are ideal for roofs complex shape, even with bull's eye lucarnes. Moreover, the beaver is small, and much more material will be spent here per 1m2. Additionally flat tiles fastened with self-tapping screws or nails; for this purpose, two holes are initially provided in it.

By the way, this tile of all ceramic types roofing is most suitable for cone-shaped and unusually shaped roofs. Moreover, there is no need to sacrifice the design idea, hiding the rounded edges somewhere for the sake of simplifying installation. In fact, the more symmetrical such a substructure is, the more stylish the final result will be.

Your main task is to ensure that the height of the rafters is the same. To do this, such part of the area must be supported by special supports. You will also need high-quality under-roof insulation with increased level protection. Don’t skimp on the sheathing either, and the larger the pitch of the rafters, the more frequent it should be, and nowhere should the distance exceed 30 cm.

Use a tile cutting machine to trim the slabs at the top and bottom where necessary. When laying, the side overlap should be 3.5 cm, and one large tile should overlap three small ones, and so the turret is laid to the very top. Moreover, it is important that the rows are independent of each other.

In fact, most of the tiles you will have are of normal width, but there will also be some that are adjusted to balance all the rows:

S-shaped tiles: special hooks

Let's move on to the most textured tiles - S-shaped, cross section which resembles the letter “S”. On the back side you will find hooks that hook the tiles to the sheathing slats. Thanks to them, the tiles are movable, the rows can be moved and moved apart at intervals of 2 to 4 cm. By the way, do not confuse such tiles with grooved lock tiles, which also resemble an S-shape, but have profiled locks.

One of the most beautiful and popular S-shaped tiles is Mediterranean:

A traditional S-shaped tile, a true classic is the munch-nunn, or “monk-nun.” It consists of two parts, the upper one is called the “monk”, and the lower one is called the “nun”.

Such tiles must be secured using special clamps (clasps) or strong wire.

The roof will turn out to be quite heavy, but self-ventilated; when insulating the roof, there will be no need to leave a special gap. True, laying such tiles is not easy; skill is required, and therefore modern manufacturers produce grooved tiles that effectively imitate Munch-nunn, are easy to install, and at the same time retain an antique flavor.

Procedure for laying ceramic tiles

Now let's study the technology of laying ceramic tiles on roof slopes. There are many points here!

Step 1: Roof Design

When purchasing ceramic tiles, find out what additional elements you will need: ridge and ridge tiles, ventilation strips and much more. It's good if you have it in your hands detailed project such a roof.

Step 2. Calculation of the required number of tiles

We advise you to accurately calculate it before purchasing the selected tiles. required amount. The fact is that even in one working day of the plant, batches of roofing ceramics are produced with quite noticeable different shades. Literally 1-2 degrees more - and the color is more saturated, a little less glaze - a different iridescence. Therefore, if it suddenly turns out that there are not enough tiles, finding exactly the same color will be difficult, and sometimes impossible.

This is different from ceramics cement-sand tiles, which is painted according to one catalog, and which can even be specially produced to order. Therefore, take it with a reserve - whole copies will be needed in the future, when you need to repair the roof.

You need to calculate the tiles like this: usually 9-12 pieces for each square meter roofing (check with your chosen manufacturer for more details). Divide your roof equally geometric figures, and calculate the area of ​​each. Now count the number of tiles for each. Then sum and multiply by a factor of 0.1.

Just don’t confuse the sequence: first the number of tiles for each slope, then their sum. After all, there is a fairly common mistake when simply summing up the areas of figures and then selecting the quantity. So you will have a shortage! After all, do not forget that on the ridges you will need to trim the tiles, and it is not a fact that the fragments will be needed somewhere else.

Step 3. Installation of the rafter system

So, as bars for the rafter system for ceramic tiles, take those with a cross-section of at least 50x150 mm. Maintain the pitch of the rafter legs at 60-90 cm, calculating it using special roof load tables. Yours the main task– maintain the bending strength of the entire rafter system, and therefore take into account the total weight of the tiles themselves, snow and wind exposure and random factors, like a person moving on the roof.

Now it is important to correctly place the ridge rail. To do this, mark in advance on the counter beam Right place, so that before the beginning of this rail there is from 35 to 45 mm from the top point, depending on the angle of the roof slope. And if your slope does not exceed 6 meters in length, then lay a counter beam 24 mm thick, and if the slope is from 6 to 12 meters - 28 mm thick. If your roof has slopes more than 12 meters long, then you need timber 40 mm thick, and don’t skimp on it.

Be especially careful with the top bars of the sheathing. They should not be too close to the ridge, otherwise the air outlet from the under-roof space will be blocked. Here correct device roofs:

The next step is to lay a vapor-permeable membrane, quite dense, with a horizontal overlap of 150 mm. Attach a counter beam to it, which should eventually connect at the ridge part. To successfully determine the distance between the counter-battens, lay out a double row of 12 tiles on the ground in advance, with the top side offset vertically.

Make sure all front folds interlock. Now you need to sum up the dimensions for placement and offset between the first and last tiles, and divide by 20. Typically, the average pitch of the slats is 36 cm + - 3 cm.

Now pull the cord in a straight line to create a level for the next slats. There is also a popular “dog” device for this purpose, with which the first counterbeam is traced from the overhang, and all other slats are laid at the same distance. Moreover, you can arrange the overhang itself in the following three options:

1. The grooved overhang is suitable for small angle stingrays Here they make special slots in the rafters and install them in them. cornice strip. Then the counterbeam for the overhang is stuffed and the overhang crest is installed 60 mm high.
2. Wedge mounted beams are required if the length rafter leg was increased. Then an additional extension in the form of fillies is attached to the lower parts of the rafters, and wedges are placed on top of them, and the hanging beam is already attached to the wedges. Gutter holders are mounted on all this, and on top - a cornice strip and a waterproofing under-roof film. Bottom part the films are glued to the self-adhesive strip of the apron.
3. An overhang using a metal perforated ridge is needed when the rafter leg is longer than 12 meters. Then a cornice strip is attached to the beam, on top of which it is laid with an outlet waterproofing film. Then a comb is mounted on a weight made of a metal profile with perforations for ventilation. Take a corner with a perforation area of ​​62%.

If everything is ready, you can move on to the next step. See what this kind of sheathing looks like in practice, with a profiled metal overhang:

Step 4. Laying and fixing the tiles

Let's move on to laying the tiles themselves. Check the width of the roof for symmetry, and begin installing the tiles from right to left from the end of the slope. Most often, such tiles are fastened with nails through pre-drilled holes, with clamps, locks and even polyurethane foam(Western practice).

If you are at a loss as to exactly what to do, follow the manufacturer’s instructions (usually this is written about and even illustrated). Even more: if you violate these instructions, the roofing warranty will not apply.

Typically, ceramic tiles are fastened with self-tapping screws around the perimeter, in a checkerboard pattern, and even each, if the project so provides - it all depends on the slope of the roof. Often, the manufacturer makes special non-through holes on the tiles for this purpose that do not allow water to pass through.

If you need to make them through, then drill them and fix them with self-zero. Keep in mind that such installation is labor-intensive, and the drills quickly become dull. Fortunately, today there are many models of tiles in which technological holes can be easily punched with a self-tapping screw, and there is no need to drill them.

And every third tile must be secured with an anti-wind clip. Today, the clamps themselves are produced against wind and special ones to secure the tiles in the area of ​​the ridge and valley. Be sure to install such clamps on the end slopes. For this purpose, a bundle of clamps is taken with you to the roof and used during the installation process:

Let us dwell separately on anti-wind clasps (clasps). For millennia, humanity has been improving the technology of ceramic tiled roof to achieve its reliability and high performance. Although, it would seem, what else can you come up with? After all we're talking about about a hard shard!

How exactly to lay it differently, or secure it differently? In fact, there are ways. For example, manufacturers have come up with special anti-wind clamps so that ceramic roofing not only withstands all the elements of nature, but is also in literally unbreakable even during severe hurricanes.

Here are the standard clamps for fixing flat and cut tiles:

Moreover, you can easily cope with such additional fasteners yourself. Here is an example when the clasp is simply bent by hand:

And to work with such a clamp you will need a hammer:

Remember also that you still need to think about where exactly you will place the ventilation shingles. So, if your roof is up to 4.5 meters long, you don’t need these (or at your request), if it’s longer, then:

• for roofs up to 12 meters long - one row of ventilation tiles among three rows from the ridge;
• on roofs from 12 meters at the height of the second tile from the ridge, the first row is ventilation.

Ventilation tiles are significantly different from ordinary ones, so you won’t confuse them.

Step 5. Installation of the ridge and ridges

We move on to the ridge and ridges. In these places, universal holders (usually supplied from the manufacturer) must be installed on the counterbeam and secured using self-tapping screws. Such holders are usually adjustable in height, and the height itself depends on the angle of inclination of the slope and ranges from 9 to 11 cm.

At this stage, consider the ventilation of the ridge space. For this purpose, sealing tape with holes is now available; ridge strips are also suitable. ventilation grates. Secure the ridge tiles with a special bracket, which is also included in the kit.

When working with the chimney, use a special corrugated self-adhesive material. You will have to cut some of the tiles to lay them in front of the chimney. In this case, be sure to process the edges that will join with metal strips, wall or roofing films. In the place where the insulation will be adjacent to the chimney, secure the clamping strip. In its upper part you need to treat the seam with a colorless sealant.

If the length of the wall adjacent to the roof is more than 3 meters, then deepen the bottom strip to the sheathing 15 mm down, deep. This way you will increase the depth of the side wall, and then it will be easy for you to achieve the desired sheathing density. Secure the lower junction strip to the sheathing using clamps. If you are not comfortable working with regular tiles here, use half tiles - this type is also available. And close it with two-wave.

Working with a ridge is almost no different from working with a ridge. Here the last tile needs to be trimmed and try to fit as perfectly as possible to the rib. And here, too, ventilation is needed, so ventilation tiles are installed on the ridge.

All spine shingles must be cut in a straight line that is parallel to the spine. Moreover, do not cut the tiles on the roof, because sawdust will fly off, and these can damage the surface of the tiles. A grinder with a diamond cutting disc will help you with this. After this, secure the rail to the ridge and lay ventilation tape:

When the tile is ready, lay it on the ridge, and cover the junction of the lines with a tee - this is another type of ceramic tile, which is called hip tile.

Step 6. Laying tiles in the valley

It is also important to take care of the valley. Even before laying the waterproofing, the internal joint of the roof must be reinforced with edged boards. When laying, its width must be at least 35 cm from the center of the valley.

Secure the bars with self-tapping screws with rubber sealing to avoid leaks. To secure valley gutter, the sheathing should be cut to 15 mm in depth. The width of the valley itself depends on the length of the internal roof joint. Also be aware of these points:

• For a slope up to 4 m in length, 25 cm on one side is sufficient. When unfolded, such a valley will be 55 cm wide, with a 5 cm wide gap on each side.
• When the valley is up to 8 m long, the width must be increased to 67 cm.

In the area of ​​the valley you need to trim the tiles to the right size. Also, such tiles need to be drilled and secured with a special clamp made of acid-resistant steel. Here is a good video tutorial on how to arrange such a valley correctly and avoid annoying mistakes:

Also, if the valley exceeds 6 meters in length, ventilation tiles will be needed.

Step 7. Installation of a dormer window

Often, ceramic tiles are laid on a stylish house with additional elements, like dormer windows, especially lucarnes. In this place, as well as around the chimney, the counter-lattice needs to be strengthened. In the upper part of the arc it is placed on minimum distance 363 mm, and if the slope is straight, then the counter beam needs to be moved apart maximum distance 369 mm.

Installation of ceramic tiles on dormer window It’s quite complicated, but if you want, you can figure it out. For this they find extreme points at an angle of 90°, and transfer them along the roof slope to the uppermost counter beam of the roof. In each prepared tile you need to make two drilled holes to secure with self-tapping screws.

If the dormer window is located at the edge of the overhang, which is slightly raised, then drain pipes must be installed.

To lay ceramic tiles on a roof hatch, a so-called roofing wedge is used - a special set of 17 elements that are laid in 10 rows. It's so easy to create a cone-shaped surface.

Believe me, when the roof of your house is ready, you will feel an incomparable sense of satisfaction. After all, now the roof will serve you for at least half a century, and it was you who completed the construction of your house, laid every tile with your own hands, and this is what makes the house – a Home.

Installation of tiles on a circular sheathing

No other roofing covering can compare with the look of ceramic tiles on a circular sheathing. Often it is purchased precisely in order to complete some beautiful architectural object. Moreover, installation on such rafters is actually not difficult.

Installation begins from the bottom up, as in working with ordinary tiles. Each subsequent one is laid with an overlap on the underlying and side ones. Only here, each successive tile decreases in width from row to row, and each row already consists of fewer and fewer elements. As a result, they all converge at the same top point of the roof:

And believe me, the magnificent view of such a roof is worth any effort!

The laying of ceramic tiles is justified by the outstanding technical and aesthetic qualities of the material, the reliability of which is confirmed by almost a century of operation. Created by sintering natural components, natural tiles withstand the entire range of atmospheric factors. However, in addition to the advantages, the coating, which is “difficult” in terms of price and weight, also has disadvantages, namely the labor-intensive installation of piece elements and the need to scrupulously follow technological requirements.

Preparatory stage and calculations

Installation of ceramic tiles can be divided into two parts: standard stage. The first of them consists of careful preliminary calculations and thorough preparation, the second part of the work is direct installation.

How many tiles should I buy?

A sauna roof made of natural tiles can have one, two, four or more slopes located under different angles. The tiles are installed with an overlap, the size of which depends on the steepness of the roof. The value obtained by subtracting the length required to form the overlap from the total length of the ceramic element is the useful length of the material. The usable width is indicated by the manufacturer in technical documents.

Based on the area obtained as a result of multiplying these “useful” parameters, the number of pieces required to equip one meter of roofing is calculated. But it is better to count the number of horizontal rows and vertical analogues, dividing the corresponding roof sizes by the usable width and length. All results obtained are rounded up with the expectation that entire ceramic parts will need to be trimmed.

Have you calculated? Now add another row of tiles to the result, as required when working with building ceramics, for “breaking” and trimming. Do not forget, using the same values, to calculate the number of additional parts for arranging the gables and ridge.

Calculation of material for waterproofing

Correct installation of natural tiles on roofs with a slope of up to 22º is carried out with the obligatory installation of a waterproofing layer. It is recommended to use a roll membrane material, laid with overlapping sheets of 10 cm, with overlaps along the lines of gable and pitched overhangs of 15 cm, with overlaps through protruding corners of 15-20 cm. The amount of material is calculated by multiplying total area slopes by 1.4.

Note. To ensure ventilation, the waterproofing membrane is laid at a distance of 30 cm from the ridge line. The ridge will need to be equipped with a special insulating tape.

The inlet will need to be left in the chimney passage area and in the wall junction area if the bathhouse is attached to a residential building.

Calculations of rafter legs and sheathing

The approximate weight of natural tiles per 1 m² of roofing is 40 kg. You also need to add snow load, characteristic of a particular region. Therefore, the rafter system must be powerful enough. But for its construction it is not necessary to use thick timber, it is enough to shorten the installation step of the rafter legs. Optimal choice for the rafter leg - timber with rectangular cross-section with side sizes of 75 and 150 mm, maybe a little larger or smaller. It is recommended to install trusses every 90 cm, or even better after 60 cm.

To construct the sheathing, you need to buy timber with dimensions of 50×50 mm; a rectangular analogue of 40×60 mm is also suitable.

Important. The laths laid along the eaves should be approximately 15-20 mm wider than the ordinary elements. This is necessary to form a uniform plane of the slope, because the previous elements overlap.

The number of rows of sheathing is equal to the number of horizontal rows of tiles plus one row running along the eaves.

How much fasteners will be required?

For fastening you need galvanized screws and special clamps. Fix ceramic coating elements in areas of high wind load. It is mandatory to attach the bottom row running along the eaves line, the row along the pediment and the ridge. If the installation of a roof made of natural tiles is carried out on steep roof with a slope of more than 50º, additionally ordinary elements are fixed in a checkerboard pattern. In this option, one fixed tile will hold the upper and lower “neighbors”.

An important stage of preparation is verification.

Before constructing the lathing under ceramic coating To avoid annoying mistakes and distortions, the dimensions of the rafter system being installed must be measured.

• On at this stage you can adjust the direction of the horizontal bars by arranging them in a fan pattern. In such situations, the distances between the laths are increased towards the larger pediment.
• Deviations in the vertical direction are eliminated using an identical fan method, by creating a slight backlash of the elements in the required direction.

Begin checking with diagonals along the slopes. If their sizes do not match, you need to measure each side of the pitched rectangle separately.

If roofing ceramics are installed on top of a waterproofing underlayment and insulation, the roof will need to be provided with two ventilation gaps. The first gap will be between the thermal insulation and the waterproofing membrane, the second between it and the coating. So natural ceramic tiles, wooden parts and the insulation will be freed from excess moisture, thanks to which they will serve for a long time.

• The first ventilation gap can be formed either by installing a sheathing or by laying a 5 cm thick edged board along the ridge. If a diffusion film is used as a waterproofing material, in the formation of this ventilation duct not necessary.
• The second gap for ventilation is provided by the installation of a counter-lattice.

The entire area is covered with waterproofing flooring. Laying the canvas begins from the bottom, moving towards the ridge. Lay in a horizontal direction with obligatory overlap and fastening the sheets together with a stapler or tape. You will also need to fix the flooring around the perimeter in increments of 20 cm.

Note. Between the slats, the flooring should sag slightly. Approximately 3 cm. Thanks to the sagging, the accumulated condensation and moisture will flow into peculiar recesses without lingering on the building materials.

Next, the sheathing under the tiles is installed according to the calculations described above. After the device of this element roofing structure control measurements are carried out again. Verified correct installation lathing in a plane. If deviations of more than 5 mm are detected, leveling is carried out by lining wooden elements under the poles.

Installation ceramic elements

To ensure that laying natural tiles does not lead to destruction of the rafter system due to intensive movement along it, all the required material is lifted onto the roof at once. But you cannot place a heavy box of tiles on the rafters; you need to lay them out in stacks of 5 or 6 pieces, evenly distributing the batches over the roof.

• The first step is to lay out rows along the ridge and cornice without fixation. If it is not possible to place only whole parts in a row, trimming the ceramic elements is carried out on the ground with a grinding tool with a disc for cutting stone.
• Through the directions obtained as a result of the initial layout, the lines of the upcoming laying of vertical columns are marked with a dye cord. It is imperative to outline the pediment line and then lines every 3-5 vertical rows.
• The laid out tiles are fixed as indicated in the installation instructions for natural tiles, attached to the product by the manufacturer. According to the rules, they start from the lower right corner of the roof, moving in a row to the left, then up.
• Installation and fastening of additional parts for the ridge and gables is carried out. Before installing the shaped elements, it is installed on the ridge edged board, located edgewise. It should not come into contact with ridge tiles. At the intersection points of the gable and ridge parts, they need to be adjusted to each other by trimming.
To move safely on the roof under construction, you need to provide yourself with a safety harness. Experienced builders It is recommended to also arrange a rough sheathing.

Installing roofing ceramics is not an easy task. It is advisable to entrust it to professional performers. But even if installation is ordered, the owner needs to know the sequence and purpose of construction operations in order to promptly identify technological violations.

Installation of ceramic tiles is a complex process for a person without experience, requiring reinforcement truss structure roofs. Ceramic tiles weigh ten times more than metal tiles, since their base is clay. Any errors when laying roofing material may result in serious problems, so entrust all the work better for professionals. But if you are confident in yourself and your abilities, then first read the instructions for installing ceramic tiles given in this article.

Installation rules

Remember the basic rules for installing ceramic tiles, which will simplify your work:

• Installation is carried out from right - left, bottom - up
• Before laying the slabs, they are lifted 5-6 pieces onto the roof and evenly distributed over it.
• Compared with metal roofing for a roof made of ceramic tiles, it is necessary to strengthen the truss structure by 15-20 percent
• The optimal roof slope for installing ceramic tiles is 50 degrees. Minimum slope- 11 degrees
• The pitch of the lathing and counter-lattice is 30 centimeters
• Deliver tiles to building object better just before starting work
• Transportation of ceramic tiles is carried out on freight transport on pallets. The weight of one element is from 2 to 4 kilograms

Tile calculation

Use the table to determine the number of tiles. Useful width and length are the dimensions of the tiles. Measure the roof area and make the appropriate calculations.

Should I use ceramic tiles?

Many people have a question: “Is it necessary to cover the roof with ceramic tiles?” After all, it is difficult to install, and this process is labor-intensive, because you need to lay one element at a time. It is much easier and faster to cover the roof with ondulin or metal tiles. Let's try to answer this question.

Here are the benefits of ceramic tiles that make some home owners use them as a roofing material:

• Ecological cleanliness. Ceramic tiles are made from clay according to all requirements. Thanks to firing at a temperature of 1000 degrees, the material acquires a brownish-red hue.
• Duration of operation. Ceramic tiles can last up to 100 years! And no corrosion will occur. This material is durable and reliable, non-flammable and noise-absorbing
• Uniqueness. A roof covered with ceramic tiles is radically different from others. But this, again, is a matter of taste
• High resistance to ultraviolet radiation, precipitation
• Easy to replace damaged roof sections

Flaws:

• Heavy weight
• High price
• Difficulty of installation
• Brittleness under high mechanical loads

Whether to use ceramic tiles or not is your choice. Compare all the advantages and disadvantages, compare them with others roofing materials and make the right choice!

Video about installation of ceramic tiles