Installation of a bathhouse made of timber. A bathhouse built from timber: how to build it yourself. Step by step instructions. Methods of building walls

A timber bathhouse is an additional building on the site, the construction of which is not as easy as it might seem at first glance. If you have professional construction skills, special knowledge and experience, drawing up and implementing a project really won’t take much time. However, it is quite dangerous for a beginner to take on such a task: the structure may not last long. In any case, it is worth familiarizing yourself with the features of the projects and their implementation.

Preparation for construction

Before building a small bathhouse, it is necessary to carry out preparatory work.

Choosing a location

Any structure, regardless of area and purpose, should begin to be planned, following certain norms and rules. The location for the bathhouse must be selected taking into account a number of requirements.

The building must not:

1. Being too close to a residential building.
2. Harm the communication system.
3. Pressure the area closest to it.

It is necessary to take into account the distance to other structures in order to avoid problems with government employees and neighbors. SNiP rules regulate at what distance a bathhouse must be built from other structures. According to the rules established by the state, from the bathhouse to other structures and buildings there must be:

• 3 meters – to a residential building;
• 4 meters to medium trees, and 5 meters to large ones;
• 1 meter to other bushes;
• 4 meters from buildings where animals are kept.

Selecting wall material

Yes, a bathhouse can be built from any materials. But it is advisable not to use the same brick, polystyrene concrete and foam block. They get too hot and then take a long time to cool down. Such structures create high humidity, and when ventilated, the room dries very quickly.

Bricks and blocks can be used if desired, but they must have a multi-layer cladding for such variable thermal conditions.

The best option is timber. It does not require any cladding. In addition, it is wood that produces useful and healthy steam when warmed up.

Drawing up project documentation

Creating a bathhouse project consists of:

1. Outlining a sketch and drawing.
2. Drawing up a work schedule.
3. Calculation of estimates.

Using the drawing you can:

• make the correct orientation to the cardinal points;
• plan doors and windows;
• carry out the wiring correctly.

When drawing up a project, it is necessary to take into account the climatic conditions and location of the facility:

1. It is advisable to install windows from the west and south.
2. Place the doors on the side of the house.
3. If possible, it is better to build a bathhouse on some hill. Thanks to this, storm water will bypass it.

On our website you can find contacts of construction companies that offer the service of building a bathhouse from profiled timber. You can communicate directly with representatives by visiting the “Low-Rise Country” exhibition of houses.

Obtaining permission from administrative authorities

If you build a bathhouse without approving it in the relevant structures, it can be demolished due to any complaints from neighbors.

Therefore, it is necessary that the project be approved. To do this it must include:

1. Floor plan, even if the bathhouse consists of one floor. The plan must include detailed drawings, sections and explications.
2. Approximate estimate for materials.
3. Type of foundation with drawings.
4. Written consent of all closest neighbors for the construction of a bathhouse.

Obtaining permission is a mandatory procedure.

Bathhouse layout

In order for the project to be complete and allow you to obtain permission from the administrative authorities the first time, you must have a good knowledge of the structure of the bathhouse. This will help you create the correct drawings.

The baths consist of 4 parts:

1. Waiting room.
2. Shower room.
3. Steam room.
4. Tambour.

Typical layout of a bathhouse with a vestibule

Tambour

After entering, a person finds himself in a vestibule. The vestibule is at the same time a hallway and protects the dressing room from cold air. It is sometimes used as a locker room. The size is chosen by the future owner.

Waiting room

Behind the vestibule is a dressing room. This is the room where people relax. Because of this, it should be made comfortable, convenient, and most importantly, spacious. This room is also used as a cooling area, so a window is necessary.

Important! Many make the floor slippery. This is a grave mistake. After leaving the steam room, your feet may be wet, which will directly lead to injury.

Shower room

Steam room

At the very end of the bathhouse there is a steam room. The main thing to consider is that the doors should not open onto the vestibule! This error will constantly reduce the temperature in the steam room, which will reduce its effectiveness.

Stages of bathhouse construction

Below is a step-by-step answer to the question of how to build a bathhouse from timber.

Foundation

The construction of a timber bathhouse begins with the construction of a foundation. The strength of the structure will depend on the quality and reliability of the foundation. Therefore, it is necessary to treat this stage with full responsibility.

1. In addition to the material, when choosing the type of foundation, you should take into account the type of soil and the topography of the earth.
2. Considering that structures made of timber are not heavy, in order to equip the foundation with even terrain, a strip foundation would be an excellent choice.
3. If the difference in relief is more than one meter, it is better to choose bored piles.

If it is decided that a bathhouse made of timber with a strip foundation will be built on specific land, it is necessary to begin work as follows. The first step is to transfer the finished plan to the area. A theodolite will help with this. In the absence of this construction device, it is proposed to use pegs and cords. Using them, you can also draw straight lines.

As soon as the markings are ready, construction of the foundation begins. The first step is to dig trenches. Their depth is determined by the type of soil and the depth of freezing in a given area. If the soil is heaving, the trench should be 17-20 cm greater than the maximum freezing depth. Depending on the climate zone, the latter indicator may vary.

A layer of sand is poured into the finished trenches, the minimum thickness of which is 13-15 cm. Next, wooden formwork should be installed. In addition to the wooden shield, any sheet materials are used for this:

• slates;
• boards;
• plywood, etc.

Then a layer of waterproofing for the foundation should be laid. To give rigidity to the structure, the foundation can be reinforced using a frame of 14 mm rods, which are connected with wires. After this, a concrete mixture is prepared to fill the trench. After 4 days, the formwork is removed.

Selection and purchase of timber

Further steps directly depend on the raw materials from which you need to build a bathhouse from timber. You only need to prepare in advance the high-quality wood necessary for erecting walls in the bathhouse.

Timber is one of the most popular and best building materials for baths:

1. It gives minimal shrinkage.
2. Does not require adjustment.
3. Mounted on a small foundation.

But at the same time, its quality directly depends on the selected raw materials. Therefore, at the stage of purchasing material you need to be extremely careful.

When the site is located in a temperate climate zone, it is not recommended to use logs whose thickness is less than 20 cm. Otherwise, the walls will be too small and thin. Consequently, heat will be retained inside very poorly.

Small logs are often used in an attempt to save money, but this is a fatal mistake. This will only increase costs, because everything will need to be covered with thermal insulation materials.

Important! You need to find and buy a good timber. You should not waste money on material with defects. If cracks, axial deformations or lesions are present, discard and look elsewhere.

When purchasing, you should pay attention to the thickness of the trunks. If possible, it is better to buy those logs whose thickness difference between the ends does not exceed 3 cm. Timber is cut along the length of the bathhouse. In most cases, the dimensions of bath complexes are 6x6 or 6x3.

Laying rows

1. The first row is called the lining crown. It is advisable to use the thickest logs for it and place them on the foundation base. Before this, it is necessary to lay waterproofing. After this, the lower trim is assembled. Logs are made on it in order to assemble the floor in the future.
2. Then comes the horseshoe crown. A window row is laid on it, and then a row above the window. How many rows there will be is calculated during the creation of the plan. The height of the building depends on this factor.
3. At the last stage, when all the crowns have already been installed, the log house is left for some time. It must sag and take its final form. The best time for this procedure is up to 700 days.

The most important stage in the construction of a bathhouse is the laying of the mortgage crown:

• 20x20 bars are great for the first row.
• Mandatory - all beams should be cut so that their length is the same.

Important! Even slight precision cannot be tolerated. In most cases, “in the paw” is chosen as the type of connection.

When laying a bathhouse on pads, and not on a foundation, it is advisable to build a temporary roof over the building.

It takes a lot of effort to get the rows perfectly positioned and laying out as evenly as possible. After finishing the first row, the remaining space between the base and the materials is filled with foam. There is no need to fix the first screw - the overall stability is guaranteed by the weight of the structure.

As soon as the process of assembling the log house is completed, window and door frames are installed.

Installation process: additional factors

It is imperative to lay waterproofing between the base and the first row of timber. The surface is covered with bitumen, then a layer of roofing material is applied. As soon as the first layer cools, apply the second and roofing material.

Mortgage rows should always be treated with antiseptics:

• Particular attention should be paid to the surface adjacent to the base.
• Machine oil is excellent as an impregnation.

Most professionals use this oil because it is inexpensive and is sold almost everywhere.

1. Lack of contact with the foundation.
2. Ventilation improvements.
3. Protecting trees from mold and mildew.

All of the above will increase the shelf life of the tree.

Roofing, screeding and finishing - the final stage

1. Lay the floor.
2. Do a little finishing on the inside.
3. Decorate the roof.

The roof is very easy to do. You should choose between single-slope and gable. Their main difference is the slope. A gable roof is made from 2 planes that together form a ridge.
A single-pitch roof is one piece of canvas. It is chosen for garages, sheds and other non-residential buildings.

It is with the installation of logs that flooring begins. Boards are laid on the joists. It is advisable to make them from pine or larch. You definitely need a floorboard!

Further work directly depends on what kind of floor is being built. Bathrooms have non-leaking or leaking floors. When choosing the second option, the boards are simply placed as close to each other as possible, increasing the angle slightly. The water flows at an angle into a gutter or siphon.

Further finishing is entirely a matter of the owner’s taste. Timber is an interesting and design-friendly material that does not require much effort in design after construction. Leaving it in its original form will create the atmosphere of a classic Russian bathhouse.

Video description

Interesting ideas for decorating the interior of a bathhouse - in this video:

The article examines in detail the technology according to which the construction of a bathhouse from timber is carried out with your own hands. The text describes the process of correct selection of materials, features of designing a future bathhouse made of wood, creating a foundation for it, erecting walls, taking into account the formation of window and door openings in them, as well as other stages of construction and finishing work.

To build a bathhouse on a summer cottage, various building materials can be used. There is a wide range on the market that allows you to achieve any operational characteristics from the future structure. If the owner of a summer cottage decided to build a turnkey bathhouse from timber, the price will be one of the most important criteria for choosing the material. In addition, personal preferences are also taken into account. If the construction will be carried out with one’s own hands, the choice may also be based on experience in working with a certain material.

Most often, owners of suburban areas give preference to wooden buildings, choosing projects from rounded or timber. These materials combine the beneficial advantages of natural raw materials and a relatively low price.

Advantages and photos of bathhouses made of timber in a summer cottage

The popularity of timber as a building material for a bathhouse is due to a large number of advantages. First of all, consumers are captivated by the natural origin of this raw material. Wood is environmentally friendly, it does not contain toxic substances or impurities at all, therefore it is completely safe for humans. Having a little practical experience in handling it, a person can build a bathhouse with his own hands in a fairly short period of time. Moreover, the work is performed with a minimal set of tools.

The timber has excellent technical characteristics. It is easily laid in rows, due to which the structure does not require much time to shrink. The price of log bath houses made of timber is more affordable than other buildings. The material retains heat well, creating optimal climatic conditions indoors and filling the air with the pleasant aroma of wood and natural resins.

The timber can be glued or profiled. The last of them has a special structural structure that allows the walls to be assembled using the tongue-and-groove method. The result is a very strong and reliable structure.

Helpful advice! If you don’t want to wait a long time for shrinkage to occur, you shouldn’t choose profiled material. Glued laminated timber is better suited for these purposes; the price of a turnkey bathhouse made on its basis is much higher, but the construction is more reliable. In addition, this material is less susceptible to deformation changes.

The timber is easily amenable to all types of processing, it is pliable and does not impose restrictions on design. The material allows you to build baths with almost any design features and layouts:

• one- and two-story;
• with one or more entrances with a porch;
• with veranda;
• with terrace;
• swimming pool, etc.

To build a bathhouse, you do not need to build a solid foundation. The use of timber simplifies the technology as much as possible. In many ways, this material is even better than logs. It is convenient, cost-effective and does not require adjustment on the ground during the construction of walls. Laying the material can be done immediately on the foundation.

How to build a bathhouse from timber with a terrace: photos and recommendations

The bathhouse is used for water procedures, however, this is not its only purpose. Here people can relax and unwind. Moreover, this can be done outdoors if the building includes a terrace. The smaller the dimensions of the structure, the higher the need to create this additional structural element. In self-made bathhouses made of 3x4 m or 4x4 m timber, the presence of a terrace will not only add usable space, but also give the overall appearance of the building a finished look.

If the construction is carried out with your own hands, it is better to opt for a one-story building project. A bathhouse measuring 4x6 m would be an excellent option. In this case, you need to make a support-column foundation. It is advisable to have 4 blocks in each cabinet. Profiled timber is suitable for walls. The optimal height of the premises for such a bathhouse size is 2.15 m. For the construction of partitions, frame-panel technology can be used.

Features of the structure and an overview of the best options for implementation. Recommendations for construction. Original planning ideas.

Since the attic is characterized by a special temperature and humidity regime, the ceiling is additionally insulated from heat and moisture using film material or foil. Then the insulation is laid and the finished floor is installed. The ceiling is covered with clapboard.

Based on the calculated height, a stop for the rafters is formed. To do this, you need to take beams of the required length and install them as vertical supports. The timber is laid on top of them in a horizontal position. The supports are placed in increments of 1.5 m. During the assembly of the structure, you can do without cuts. Self-tapping screws or metal corners are used for fixation. To increase the reliability of the stop, you can secure it to the floor beams using corner boards.

At the next stage, the length of the rafters is measured. This takes into account the offset. In this case, 3.2 m is enough. Boards measuring 100x50 mm can be used as rafters. To build a 3x3 m bathhouse, 6 pieces will be enough. According to the technology, the outer rafters are installed first. Then you should pull a rope between them. This will allow the remaining roof elements to be laid evenly. The most reliable option for fixing structural parts is the notched method, but metal corners are also suitable.

Installation of a roof on a do-it-yourself bathhouse made of timber

Ondulin is the optimal material for roofing. It has a low cost and is of sufficient quality. If the installation of this material is done correctly, the roof will be solid. This eliminates the possibility of leaks, so there is no need to use hydraulic barriers.

To install the roofing material, you will need a frame base in the form of sheathing. Externally, ondulin resembles asbestos-cement sheets. Unlike slate, its installation will require sheathing with more frequent placement of slats. As an alternative, unedged boards of small width can be used to build the frame. They are more convenient when it comes to driving nails. When constructing sheathing, it is very important to ensure that all rows are placed evenly. If you have no experience, it is better to immediately lay out the first row, check its position, and only then start hammering nails.

Note! It is desirable that each sheet of ondulin be supported in four places. To do this, the slats are laid at a distance of 35-40 cm from each other.

Regular slate nails are suitable for fixing ondulin. The fastener is installed along the upper wave. The lower the roof slope, the more the sheets should overlap each other. In this case, it will be enough to overlap by about 10 cm. You need to hammer in the nails very carefully, otherwise you can damage the wave. If desired, a storm drainage system can be installed on the roof.

The space located between the wall of the bathhouse on the side where the slope rises and the rafters is filled with boards. At this point, all urgent work is completed. Now the log house can be left to shrink. During the winter, all deformation changes will occur, the relative humidity of the material will reach its natural value. If you don’t want to postpone the construction of a timber bathhouse for several months, you can continue work by starting to arrange the bathhouse from the inside.

Shrinkable bath flooring made from profiled timber

The floors in the bathhouse are formed according to the principle of a pie, where materials are laid in layers.

The optimal flooring layout looks like this:

• sand and crushed stone cushion;
• concrete screed 20-30 mm thick (no reinforcement required);
• extruded polystyrene foam boards;
• insulating film layer “Izospan D”;
• concrete screed 80-100 mm thick with reinforcement.

In addition, expansion joints will need to be made. To do this, 3 cm thick EPS sheets are cut. The seam is laid around the entire perimeter of the room, as well as around the base intended for installing the stove. At the same stage, the internal distribution of water pipes and sewerage is arranged. Next, sand and crushed stone are poured onto the floor, after which the pillow is compacted. A concrete screed is poured on top of it. It is better to use a rule to level the surface.

When the screed is completely dry, you can lay Izospan. The canvases should be laid with a slight overlap on each other. The material should partially cover the expansion joint. All edge parts of the film and joints are fixed with adhesive tape. Next, the installation of polystyrene foam sheets is carried out.

Helpful advice! Experts recommend using extruded polystyrene foam boards 6-10 cm thick.

The slabs do not need to be fixed, but they should be laid as tightly as possible. After this, another layer of Izospan is laid, which is also fixed with tape. Next, a reinforced concrete screed is poured. When it dries, you can install heating equipment, and then finish the floors with tiles, porcelain stoneware or other materials.

How to build a podium for installing a stove in a bathhouse from timber

The base under the stove must be waterproofed. To make the equipment look aesthetically pleasing, it is advisable to build a podium of bricks 10 cm or more high on top of this layer. To do this, lay out two continuous rows. Before doing this, you need to provide protection from fire.

A rectangle is drawn on the floor according to the dimensions of the stove structure. The marking is done strictly at the place where the equipment will be installed. Next, you need to make allowances of 5-10 cm on each side and draw another larger rectangle.

Important! We should not forget that there must be a distance of at least 38 cm from the walls of the heating equipment to the lining of the room.

A protective sheet will be installed in front of the firebox door, the dimensions of which are 50x70 cm. The sheet should run along the stove. You need to mark the floor for its installation. If the fire door opens into an adjacent room, a protective sheet is installed there.

Taking into account the dimensions of the rectangle drawn on the floor, a part is cut out from a mineralite slab and screwed on according to the markings using self-tapping screws. A pair of continuous rows of bricks are laid on top. You can use red solid material, but fireclay would be preferable. First you need to soak the bricks in water.

It is better to fix brickwork with cement mortar with fire-resistant properties. The horizontal placement of each row must be checked. If there are deviations, the bricks can be knocked down using a mallet or their position can be adjusted by adding mortar. Next, the fire-resistant adhesive composition is diluted and with its help a protective steel sheet is fixed on the podium. Instead of metal, you can use porcelain stoneware, which perfectly withstands the effects of high temperatures. In two days it will be possible to begin installation of heating equipment.

Not only the floor, but also the walls of the bathhouse need protection from temperature and fire. Most often, protective screens in the form of brickwork, natural stone or porcelain stoneware are used for these purposes. The cost of building a bathhouse from timber increases due to this, but the result is aesthetically attractive. There are also more budget-friendly methods, for example, applying a 2.5 cm thick layer of plaster over a metal mesh or installing a steel screen.

Note! A stainless steel metal sheet provides protection not only from heat, but also from infrared radiation.

Building a bathhouse correctly: technology for arranging a portal for a stove

To install the stove inside the bathhouse, a partition is formed between the relaxation room and the steam room. A pair of beams are taken (their length must correspond to the height of the premises), pre-impregnated with an antiseptic and installed vertically. Self-tapping screws and perforated corners are used as fasteners near the ceiling and floor. The horizontal jumper between the beams is fixed in a similar way.

The result should be a frame base in the shape of the letter “H”. In the lower part there will be brickwork and the fuel channel of the furnace. The upper zone will be insulated and covered with clapboard. Basalt wool slabs 10 cm thick are installed between the beams. Next, a horizontal sheathing is formed from wooden slats with a section size of 2 cm.

Using a construction stapler, you need to fix the foil-coated vapor barrier material on each side of the frame partition. The lining is mounted on the sheathing in a vertical position using nails or clamps. Before making brickwork, it should be soaked in water. The material is laid level. A distance of 3-4 cm is maintained between the masonry and the beam. The fuel channel of the stove should be located at the same distance from the brick.

If there is a need to cut material, it is better to use a grinder for this. The use of steel corners will simplify the process of making the floor, because the brick will rest on them. When the masonry is completed, mineralite or basalt cardboard should be inserted into the gaps between the brick and the timber. The use of polystyrene foam or glass wool for these purposes is not allowed.

Helpful advice! With the help of wooden platbands you can cover and decorate unsightly areas with insulation between the timber and the brick.

If the project involves building not only a portal, but also a protective brick screen in a timber bathhouse, the heating equipment is installed in its place immediately and covered with a film that will protect this area from dirt during interior work. In other cases, the stove can be installed after complete completion of construction and finishing.

Electrification of a bathhouse made of profiled timber: construction of wiring

When working with electricity, it is very important to adhere to all rules and requirements for installing electrical equipment. These provisions contain all the necessary information about the safe supply of electricity to the bathhouse, the correct wiring and connection of devices.

First you need to decide how the power cable will be supplied:

1. Airy.
2. Underground.

The cable can be fixed directly to the external wall of the bathhouse, having previously hidden it in a corrugated pipe or a protective plastic box. Since SIP is strictly prohibited from being inserted into the room directly, a box with a two- or four-pole circuit breaker is installed at the entry point. The hole through which the cable will be introduced into the room must be reinforced using a metal tube with grounding. A rubber tube cannot be used in this case.

A specialist who understands the design of networks for rooms where there is an increased level of moisture and temperature should work on drawing up the diagram. It is worth deciding what the connection will be: three-phase or single-phase. This affects the cable layout. A three-phase connection is advisable if a large amount of powerful electrical equipment is installed in the bathhouse.

It is advisable to carry out the installation of electrical wiring according to the drawn up diagram using the open method. It is not only safe, but also convenient. You can hide the wiring under the casing only in the steam room.

To secure cables you can use:

• staples;
• porcelain insulators;
• cable trays.

Helpful advice! To add aesthetics to the wiring, it can be hidden under European baseboards or cable ducts .

• a step-down transformer;
• machine guns.

It should be installed as close as possible to the exit, since in this zone the temperature and humidity levels are the lowest in the room. The shield must be grounded, and also check that all wire fastenings are secure. Boxes, sockets and switches must be installed in the rest room. Installation of these elements in a steam room is unacceptable.

Electrical wiring installation standards:

Arrangement of door and window openings in a wooden bathhouse

To independently manufacture door and window openings, you need experience working with wood and specialized equipment. It is much easier to purchase the necessary products ready-made. Moreover, the structures can be either wooden or metal-plastic. For installation, preparatory work will be required.

Existing openings need to be trimmed and leveled, since each beam is not adjusted during the laying of the log house. To do this, you need to apply markings on the wall with the linear dimensions of the door and window openings. To cut, you will need an electric or gasoline saw. Using this tool you need to cut off the ends of the beams that protrude beyond the markings.

Next, based on 100x50 mm boards, boxes are made for installing door and window structures. If you don’t want to bother with making grooves and tenons, the parts can be assembled by driving nails into the end part. The frames prepared for the installation of windows and doors are placed in the openings and secured with self-tapping screws or nails.

Important! It is imperative to leave a free distance of 3-4 cm between the box and the top beam. More is not required, since the height of the bath is small. This is necessary in order to compensate for the changes that will occur during the shrinkage of the building, otherwise the door may become blocked and the window structures will move.

The gap left in the upper part is insulated. Polyurethane foam or tow are ideal for these purposes. After this, you can install the doors and windows. If wooden windows are selected for the bathhouse, they should be secured to the casing with self-tapping screws. If you don’t want to drill the box, you can limit yourself to using anchor plates as window fasteners.

Installation of metal-plastic structures requires professionalism and special skills. Therefore, the installation of such windows should be carried out by the company from which they were purchased. This approach will eliminate errors when installing structures and obtain a guarantee. The same applies to doors with double-glazed windows. The door in the steam room must open outward. This requirement is dictated by security considerations. External placement of crossbars and hanging hinges is done. Such an installation will eliminate the negative influence of temperature and moisture on these elements.

Interior decoration of a bathhouse: how to properly build and sheathe the frame

Natural lining should be used as finishing for the washing room and steam room. Other material is not recommended for these purposes. The rest room is less demanding in this regard.

Wall decoration in it can be done:

• plywood;
• plastic lining;
• OPS, etc.

Of all the listed materials, the technology for installing lining is considered the most complex. To install it, it is necessary to build a supporting frame. This process requires effort and care. To make the frame, wooden slats with a section size of 50x20 mm are suitable. Before starting work, the surface of the walls should be leveled, eliminating strongly protruding parts. After this, the markings of the future frame are applied.

According to the marks, the outermost slats of the base are nailed in the corners. To install the wooden elements evenly, you will need a level. To do this, a rope is stretched between the outer slats. Based on it, you need to install the remaining frame slats. They are attached at a distance of 40-50 cm from each other. Next, you need to check the height parameters at the corners of the bathhouse. In this zone, the distance between the ceiling and the floor is measured.

Helpful advice! If there are differences in height between different angles, this defect can be eliminated on the last and first rows of the lining. To do this, the material is attached with a small gap near the floor and ceiling. 1-2 cm will be enough. The cracks that form during this process will be closed with plinths. Baguettes must be nailed directly to the lining, and not to the ceiling base. Otherwise, during the shrinkage of the building, the cladding may become deformed.

To secure the lining to the frame, nails are needed. The optimal length of the fastening elements is 1.5-2 cm. These nails are driven into the groove of the lining, thus the material is fixed to the wooden slats of the frame.

Methods for installing lining on a wooden frame made of slats

Lining elements can be mounted on walls vertically or horizontally. The method of vertical installation of panels is accompanied by one significant drawback. In this case, the heating of the lining along its length occurs unevenly. As a result, the service life of the coating is significantly reduced.

Wall cladding with clapboard in a vertical manner is ideal for rooms with sauna climate conditions. When operating in a steam room, high temperatures and low levels of air humidity are observed. To increase the circulation of air flow between the sheathing and the insulation, several small holes should be drilled in the lining.

When the panels are placed horizontally, the deformation changes that occur in the lining under the influence of temperature will be less noticeable. This method allows you to visually increase the size of the room, which is a definite advantage for a small steam room. Horizontal fixation of the lining maintains air circulation, since the panels are attached to the vertical slats of the frame, due to which vertical gaps remain. Through such a coating it will be more difficult for rodents to penetrate the finish.

In general, anyone can handle the construction of a small bathhouse. To a large extent, the result depends on the diligence and quality of materials, as well as the correct adherence to technology. And such complex processes as designing an electrical wiring diagram and installing metal-plastic windows can be entrusted to professionals.

Building a sauna from 150x150 timber with your own hands: video instructions

The construction of buildings using timber technology is finding more and more adherents today. Such methods have gained particular popularity among lovers of bath rituals who want to have their own place for a family holiday or in the company of close friendscreated without outside help. Therefore, if you decide to build a bathhouse from timber with your own hands, you must understand all stages of the creation process, and ending with methods of caring for the structure in use. As a rule, the most questions arise about what type of woodworking product to give preference to, as well as about the nuances of its application.

There are different types of timber: choose the material

What is the attractiveness of timber materials? The answer to this question is quite simple; you just need to consider, firstly, the general properties of the products, and secondly, their individual characteristics.

First, it is a unique combination of a number of common advantages, including:

• quick and easy installation of wall structures due to the correct geometry of the workpieces;
• aesthetic indicators, thanks to which finishing is simplified or completely eliminated;
• good thermophysical characteristics that minimize insulation costs;
• low specific gravity, reducing the cost of preparing the foundation.

These characteristics together provide significant savings in the entire cost of building a bathhouse from timber. In addition, by working with high-quality materials and following installation technology, you will get a real corner of family relaxation and complete recovery.

Before we finally decide how we will build, it is necessary to understand the design features of walls made from one or another subtype of lumber - unprofiled, profiled or laminated veneer lumber.

Non-profiled timber

In fact, it is logs that have been cut (edges removed). It retains all the advantages and disadvantages of raw wood, except for the modified geometric parameters. Distinctive features of building a bathhouse from non-profiled beams:

• minimal costs at the stage of procurement of wall material;
• high environmental performance of the finished structure, preserving the unique aroma of natural wood, especially evident in steam rooms;
• availability of products, which are often available from trading organizations or are manufactured to your order in a matter of days;
• The apparent simplicity of the work of laying crown elements can be complicated by the selection and rejection of lumber that has significant deviations in geometric parameters, as well as foci of biological damage;
• significant shrinkage of the bathhouse in the first year (about 6 cm), delaying finishing activities;
• severe cracking, warping of beams, opening of crown joints - lead to additional finishing costs.

Profiled timber

Due to its improved characteristics, it is today more popular than products with a simple square section. Distinctive features of building a bathhouse from profiled timber for chamber drying:

• the price is slightly higher than that of wood with natural moisture, however, it is fully compensated by the minimization of subsequent finishing or its absence, since the walls have a smooth planed surface;
• calibrated crown elements significantly simplify DIY assembly, tongue-and-groove connections ensure high structural strength, as well as compliance with its design parameters;
• high-quality connections of the crowns, excluding blowing or penetration of precipitation;
• accuracy, assembly density, low humidity of the material - contribute to uniform shrinkage of the bath (by 2-3 cm);
• a small number of cracks may appear;
• finishing begins after 6-10 months.

Glued laminated timber

For the construction of the bathhouse, it is produced using the most advanced technologies in woodworking. The beams are glued together from separate blanks (lamellas), carefully selected and dried (up to 10-12% moisture content) wood. Cutting the raw material relieves internal stresses in the material, and the specified spatial orientation of the fibers and the use of special adhesive compositions make it possible to create composite products that are significantly superior in mechanical properties to analogues made from solid wood. Features of installation based on such products are as follows:

• almost ideal profiled geometric shapes of the elements minimize the time for independent construction of a bathhouse from laminated veneer lumber, as well as its subsequent finishing;
• slight shrinkage of the walls (1-2 cm), mostly caused by compression of the inter-crown seal. There is no warping or cracking. Finishing is possible immediately after the assembly of wall and roof structures;
• composite wood material is most resistant to biodestruction due to careful culling and drying of raw materials, and the use of adhesives with fungicidal characteristics;
• the use of different types of glue, to a greater or lesser extent, worsens the environmental performance of the workpieces, therefore it is necessary to be careful when choosing their manufacturer and require certificates of compliance with Russian sanitary standards;
• building a bathhouse from high-quality laminated timber will cost 2-3 times more than from solid wood.

Preparing the foundation support

In addition, in an effort to create a sufficiently reliable support for building a bathhouse from timber, it is important to exclude the slightest possibility of ground moisture getting into the wooden structures of the building or its prompt removal. To this end:

• the box is raised above the ground on poles or piles, thereby forming a ventilated space underneath it;
• strip bases are made with a base about 50 cm high, along the cut of which at least two strips of roofing material coated with bitumen are laid;
• on strip or slab foundations under all walls, even before laying the first crown, a backing board (50-80 mm thick) is placed, richly impregnated with antiseptic, waste or hot bitumen. The lining not only protects the wood of the walls, but also helps level out horizontal deviations in the foundation level.

The main stage is installation of the log frame

The result of this stage of building a bathhouse from timber with your own hands will largely depend on the degree of your skill and accuracy in your work. What you end up with will either make you happy or sad for all the years to come.

Laying the first (flashing) crown

Whatever type of wood materials you have to work with, installing a tier of strapping is one of the most critical installation operations, which largely determines the success of the entire event. The position of the rim at the base of the wall affects the verticality of the finished box. The uniform shrinkage of the building, the correct operation of doors, windows, and the preservation of the finish partially depend on this.

The most difficult thing is to select both the bed for tying and the timber for the subsequent crowns of the bath if edging material with natural humidity is used. It is completely subject to reassembly to identify curvature and biological damage. Accordingly, part of the products will be discarded, which should be taken into account at the stage of its purchase, purchasing blanks with a certain quantity reserve.

Non-profiled elements of the casing crown can be of a larger cross-section than all subsequent ones. For example, if the base of the bathhouse is made of 200x200 mm timber, then the external walls may well be made of 150x150 mm blanks, and the partitions from 150x100 mm. For profiled or laminated lumber, the beams are assumed to have dimensions equal to the beams of the crowns located above.

Despite the fact that the components of the first tier are made from rot-resistant wood species: larch or oak, they are impregnated with biocidal compounds before laying. Sealing jute tapes are laid between the backing board and the starting crown. A similar layer should also be between the board and the foundation. Sometimes polyurethane foam is used for such purposes, but it is worth remembering that it must be protected from exposure to the sun. Ultraviolet light can destroy it in one season.

For extra strength, the frame beam of the first crown of the bathhouse can be fixed to the foundation by tightening the anchor bolts. However, this is often not necessary, since the mass of the structure is sufficient to eliminate the possibility of its displacement. On the contrary, the absence of rigid fixation to the foundation makes it easier to replace a rotten flashing or backing board in the future.

Set of walls

The method of building a bathhouse from any timber with your own hands has an advantage over custom-made options in that you have the opportunity, in a sense, to be creative - to choose not only the types of basic or auxiliary materials, but also methods of working with them. Naturally, variability should be within reason, without compromising the theoretical and practical principles of log house installation. For example, the crowns of timber, as well as log structures, are assembled using two main technologies: “in a bowl” or “in a paw”.

Cutting “into the bowl” is carried out with the release of wood from the outer surfaces of the walls, which explains all the advantages and disadvantages of this method. The consumption of workpieces increases, but the thermal insulation of corner joints improves, which is important for maintaining the temperature regime in steam rooms. Cutting “in the paw” allows you to use wood without residue (without protruding outward), but the corners require additional heat and moisture protection, which are provided by their additional cladding.

Do-it-yourself construction of a bathhouse from timber can be done using the technology you like. However, for profiled or glued material, cutting into a bowl is better suited, and for edged logs, cutting into a paw, since they are rarely left without external finishing. In turn, independent laying of ordinary square-section timber on tenons (dowels) is most easily accomplished with alternating joining of end sections, and not on corner sections of one shape or another.

Installation of square beams

The first two or three levels, including the frame, are best assembled from rot-resistant wood. Then you can use coniferous wood: spruce, pine, cedar. On the starting tier, as on all others, the horizontal placement of the crowns must be controlled.

1. A beam of the upper tier is installed on the casing crown with or without displacement, guided by the requirements of the method of alternating joining of sections. The accuracy of the location of the part is ensured by using a template, for example from a piece of timber. If the design of the bathhouse frame provides for corner locks with recesses, then they must be made on the ground according to the appropriate template. Check the fit (if required) and remove the beam.
2. Insulation is spread along the upper plane of the lower crown, shooting it with a construction stapler. The strips are taken with a margin of width; they should protrude 10 mm from the outer and outer sides of the wall. After shrinking a bathhouse made of non-profiled timber, excess sealant will be needed to caulk the joints.
3. The upper beam is placed in place.
4. In the same way, the entire crown is collected, then the next one.
5. Every three rows are fastened with dowels. They are selected based on the requirements of GOST 30974-2002. Suitable cylindrical blanks Ø 25-30 mm made of birch, as well as oak, ash, larch or pine. Holes are drilled under them (strictly vertically!) into which they must fit by hand or with slight interference. The channel is selected to a depth of no less than the middle of the first beam.
6. Then the dowels are driven in, recessing them 3-5 cm into the material of the upper crown, using a cylindrical extension.
7. To prevent the walls of the bathhouse from being blown from the timber, the beams are additionally upset. For this purpose, any suitable tool is used, for example, a special large mallet or sledgehammer with a lining under the impact of a wooden shoe.

The installation of dowels should be carried out with an offset of 30-40 cm, every three rows, with a fastening step of 100-200 cm. That is, the 3rd upper beam will be the 1st for the next three.

Installation of profiled and laminated timber

If you are building a bathhouse from timber with your own hands, then using solid material with natural moisture, of course, reduces your initial investment, however, leaving such a structure without decorative finishing with clapboard or block house turns out to be not very aesthetically pleasing. On the contrary, the use of profiled chamber-drying material or glued beams will help, if desired, to completely eliminate external wall cladding. The technologies for constructing a bathhouse from these modern types of woodworking products are almost identical to each other. The differences are dictated only by different shrinkage standards of buildings, and therefore, the time after which it is possible to begin finishing them differs. As already written above, a log house made of glued material can be finished almost immediately, and one made from profiled dry solid wood can be finished in six months.

To quickly assemble a bathhouse from timber with your own hands, you can order at the factory a complete cutting of all elements with a selection of corner locks, corresponding to the construction project. As a result, by the time installation begins, you will receive at the construction site something like a construction set that does not require adjustment of parts. And after just a month of work, without involving third-party teams, you will have a structure ready for finishing.

The process of installing crowns using the tongue/groove system allows you to obtain especially sealed joints that do not require caulking. In this case, the inter-crown seal is laid without external outlet. Otherwise, profiled beams are mounted in the same way as square beams.

What else do you need to know to build a bathhouse from timber?

1. The arrangement of the ceilings during the construction of a bathhouse from timber with your own hands is carried out from lightweight structures based on lumber, no different from other types of buildings. The same applies to the roof, for which it is important to decide whether the space under it will be used () or an unused attic.
2. Openings for installing windows can be cut immediately, taking into account shrinkage gaps above their casing (for material with natural humidity 6-8 cm) or after shrinkage is completed (at least 2 cm). The correct casing must have a free-sliding element (tenon, embedded block) so as not to be crushed by shrinkage deformations of the supporting structure.
3. A bathhouse made from non-profiled timber should not only be assembled by carefully sorting the building materials, but all conditions should be created for uniform natural drying. Under no circumstances should additional heating be used, for example using air heaters. On the sunny side, vapor-permeable non-woven material should be stapled onto the walls. Such measures will reduce torsion and cracking of the crown elements.
4. Purchase solid timber from winter harvest batches, as it contains a minimum of moisture, and the frame made from it completes shrinkage faster.

Whatever technology you choose to build a bathhouse from timber, it will always include. Preference should be given to formulations, taking into account their operation in a humid environment at elevated temperatures, which is as safe as possible for humans. The use of impregnations from leaders in this industry, for example from Finnish companies, allows not only to maintain a healthy environment in the bathhouse premises, but also to achieve beautiful shades of natural wood without smudges or other coating defects.

What can you use to build a sauna in your summer cottage? Today there are enough materials for this, ranging from natural wood to brickwork. You can hire a construction company that will build everything quickly and efficiently, but only a bathhouse made of timber with your own hands will constantly remind you of your successes.

A wooden log house today is not only a tribute to fashion, but also an excellent way to spend time in the healing atmosphere of natural materials. Where else but in a bathhouse you will have the opportunity to completely relax from a week of work and get a boost of energy from wood of various species.

Have you ever worked as a carpenter and have a vague understanding of this business? It doesn’t matter, assembling a bathhouse from timber with your own hands will become for you a forgotten children’s construction set, where all the parts are strictly marked in their places. You can really save money on this without turning to specialists for help.

Preparation of material

Before you assemble a bathhouse from timber with your own hands, you must responsibly approach the acquisition of the necessary building materials. The longevity of a sauna directly depends on the quality of the wood, so there is no need to rush in this matter.

It’s another matter when you buy a ready-made kit for a building, where each log is pre-inspected by a specialist. In this case, you should not doubt it, since there is a warranty period for the material.

Material selection

Have you decided to show independence? It’s also not a problem, but keep in mind that the wood for the bathhouse must be prepared in the cold season. The actual processing of the cut tree can be carried out no earlier than a month after it was cut down. Only such a beam will not cause you trouble in the future.

If you prepare it yourself, use these tips:

• clear the trunk of bark;
• leave strips of bark 150 mm wide at both ends of the trunk, this will ensure that it does not crack;
• store finished logs in stacks or bundles at a distance of 200 mm from the ground;
• leave a gap of 50-100 mm between the trunks.

Rejection

This stage will enable long-term operation of the bathhouse. You must remove damaged and bad logs and select good ones for work.

In doing so, pay attention to:

1. Cracks. They should not be in prepared logs. Even the most insignificant things can ruin your building, which, under the influence of natural causes, can lead to rotting of the wood.
2. Light blue. It can appear on the surface of the timber when rotting processes have begun inside, so it cannot be used for the construction of a log bathhouse.

1. Wormholes and wood damage by bugs. Such timber is not used in the construction of a bath-sauna.

The bathhouse should be built from the most even and smooth timber. Otherwise, you will have problems when laying the crowns, which will significantly delay the construction time.

What do you say you should do with the defective material? There’s definitely no need to use it for firewood. It can be used as slats, doorways and other small parts. However, everything that really cannot be used anywhere must be burned so that the infection does not spread to high-quality wood.

What breeds can be used

Other features of the material, heat and waterproofing, are also important, so northern coniferous wood is ideal for building a bathhouse.

Foundation

A do-it-yourself log bathhouse can be built directly on the foundation, which is an advantage of such a project. In this case, the work time is reduced. Most often, two common methods of building a foundation are used.

Tape

1. Along the perimeter of the future bathhouse, a trench is dug with a depth just below the freezing point of the layers in this area.
2. The formwork is installed in it, leaving at least 500 mm above the ground for the base. This way you can protect the lower crowns from excess moisture.
3. Two layers of sand and crushed stone are poured onto the bottom of the trench, each 100 mm high.

1. For the foundation to be strong, it must be reinforced.
2. The formwork is filled with concrete mortar.

The laying of the first crowns of the log house begins after 3 weeks, when the concrete has completely hardened.

Columnar

1. Dig holes around the perimeter of the future structure with such a depth that the lower part of the brick pillar is below the freezing point of the soil in a given place, and with a diameter of 0.25 m in increments of up to 2 m. They must be at all angles and where walls intersect with each other .
2. At the bottom of the holes, make a “pillow” of concrete.

1. If the pillars are made of concrete, they must be reinforced. The price of this bath base will be significantly lower than the strip base.

After installation, any type of foundation. Why use molten bitumen and roofing felt. First, bitumen is poured onto the surface, then roofing material is laid, as soon as the bitumen hardens, repeat the operation.

Mortgage crown

1. Place thin wooden slats around the perimeter of the plinth - their thickness is up to 15 mm, the installation pitch is 250-300 mm. Fill the free space between them with construction foam or insulation.

Advice: check the level of the waterproofing layer with construction tools; calculations by eye are not allowed.

1. For the first row, choose the thickest beams that will bear the entire weight of the log house. It is desirable that their cross-section be 200 mm by 200 mm; the remaining crowns can be assembled from timber with a cross-section of 150x150 mm.
2. Do not secure the lower crown, which is laid directly on the foundation; it will be held in place by the weight of the structure. This will also make it easier to replace it when needed, without disassembling the bathhouse.

Advice: do not tightly assemble the frame of the bathhouse, it will shrink and become denser naturally.

1. The beams of the lower crown are connected to each other by end notches. If you purchased ready-made material, they will fit exactly together. When making them yourself, make sure that they clearly match the template. Before joining the beams, the cuts are lined with inter-crown insulation.

Advice: the lower crown must be treated with an antiseptic on all sides.

Walls

Subsequent crowns are assembled in the same way, securing them together with wooden dowels. They are a wooden stick with rounded edges. They are inserted into pre-drilled holes in adjacent beams in increments of 1-1.5 m.

Lay each crown that does not rot and is not afraid of moisture. Do not secure the last two beams, as after the bath shrinks they will need to be removed to install the ceiling beams.

Openings for windows and doors

Frames for windows and doors are installed after the walls are built. To do this, during their construction, leave a small gap in the crowns where they will be located. Final cut the openings with a chainsaw after the structure has completed shrinkage.

Final stage

An assembled timber bathhouse with your own hands requires shrinkage, so it is necessary to properly prepare the log house for this procedure. Place 40-50 mm thick boards on the top beams and cover them with slate or roofing felt.

After such a “wintering”, you can move on to the final stage - installing the roof and interior arrangement.

Conclusion

The proposed article told how to make a bathhouse from timber with your own hands, spending a minimum of effort. You learned about how to choose the material, what to pay attention to when rejecting, which timber is better and why.

Detailed instructions were also provided for assembling a timber bathhouse yourself. In the video presented in this article you will find additional information on this topic.

In terms of its aesthetics, quality and durability, a bathhouse made of wooden beams is not much different from one built from rounded logs, but the process of its construction itself is much easier, faster and does not require a special level of skill. And the log bathhouse itself can be safely called a truly Russian building - after all, in Rus' absolutely all houses were built without a single nail, but very well and to last. So, we are building a bathhouse from timber - with a website portal

First, here's an introductory video:

How to choose the right timber for construction?

The most important stage in building a bathhouse from timber with your own hands is the choice of the wood itself. After all, the performance characteristics of the steam room will directly depend on this. The first thing you need to pay attention to before purchasing is the complete absence of cracks in the finished logs. After all, even the smallest, insignificant of them will certainly give a defect during shrinkage, constantly expanding in the future and even subsequently becoming the cause of wood rotting.

Secondly, there should not be any light blue spots on the surface of the beams - this is evidence that the rotting process is already in full swing inside, possibly provoked by fungi - it is no longer possible to build a bathhouse or a house from such material. Also, timber for building a bathhouse is considered defective if it shows wormholes or traces of being eaten by bugs.

But a good, high-quality timber will look smooth and perfectly even. If any distortions or defects are visible, all this will affect when laying the crowns, and the construction of a bathhouse made of timber will drag on indefinitely.

The timber is profiled and solid. The profiled one has tenons and crown grooves along the entire length, which are additionally ground. Such elements are easier to connect with each other. And the main advantage is that it is almost impossible for precipitation and moisture to penetrate into such walls. But among the disadvantages, we highlight the fact that this material has poor endurance and low fire-fighting properties. will have to be treated with additional propylene. Solid timber is also used for construction. But it usually doesn’t look very aesthetically pleasing and you will need to cover it with siding or a block house.

But how much timber is needed for a bathhouse and how to calculate it? It all depends on the project. Any experienced craftsman will be able to estimate by eye the required amount of material, and if an agreement for the delivery of wood is concluded with some supplier, he will calculate everything on his own and will bring only the strictly required number of elements - no more, no less.

And, if it so happens that among the delivered beams one or two turned out to be defective, there is no need to use them for firewood - they can be sawn and the good parts can be used to make smaller construction elements: slats, door and window frames, and even floor boards. But the rejected material will definitely need to be burned - in order to prevent contamination of high-quality wood. That is why, even at the stage of the contract with the company, how much timber is needed for a bathhouse according to the chosen project, it is better to overpay a little and order “spare” ones - those that can later be trimmed and replaced damaged ones, if any (two or three will be enough).

How to prepare and process timber yourself?

But how to build a bathhouse from timber if it is not possible to order the material itself? In this case, you can prepare it yourself. It is better to do this in the cold season.

As soon as the tree is cut down, it is advisable to let it rest for at least a month, after which all the logs need to be carefully examined and sorted: only the highest quality ones can be left for the construction of a bathhouse, and it is better to discard damaged and bad ones.

Now you can begin processing the future building material. So, first, the log needs to be cleared of bark, and to prevent it from cracking, it must be left on both sides - about 15 cm wide. After such procedures, you can put the logs in storage: at least 20 cm from the ground, carefully folding them in packs or stacks, making sure to maintain a distance of 5 to 10 cm between them.

By the way, it is advisable to make the two or three lower crowns of the bathhouse from deciduous timber, and all subsequent ones from pine, spruce or cedar. This is due to the fact that larch always retains its properties well, even in an intensely humid environment, and is much less susceptible to rotting, becoming harder and harder over time. But building an entire bathhouse from this material is a very expensive pleasure, but everyone can afford the first three such crowns. And the pine and spruce walls of the bathhouse are still slightly better in terms of hydro- and thermal insulation properties.

How to draw up a project for a future bathhouse?

It’s easier and more logical to choose a ready-made one. But first, decide exactly what your bathhouse will look like and what structural elements are required in it.

Bathhouse with attic

So, one of the most popular options is a bathhouse with a mansard roof and an attached veranda. On top there is a summer bedroom, where it will be convenient to spend the night after bath procedures or leave friends for the night, and the veranda is a wonderful place for evening herbal tea.

If you want to look at designs for bathhouses with an attic, we recommend that you read the article

Bathhouse with terrace

If you plan to build a barbecue in the yard, then build a bathhouse with an open wide terrace. By the way, you can put the oven itself on it. And over time, make an artificial pond in front of the bathhouse.

Bathhouse with veranda

A simple bathhouse with a wide veranda is one of the simplest buildings. In this case, it is better to glaze the veranda in order to make a summer bedroom, kitchen or put a billiard table in it. There are a lot of options!

How to build a bathhouse with a veranda is described in the article

Bathhouse with porch

If you are a follower of a real Russian steam room, build it with a traditional wide porch:

It is not only beautiful, but also practical. A table, a samovar and the scent of nature around – what more do you need?

Bathhouse with veranda and wide roof

Such a bathhouse made of timber has a great advantage - the veranda is covered, and the attic has a huge usable area, even if you have two bedrooms, the foundation will be compact.

Have you chosen a project? Then let's move on to the intricacies of constructing a bathhouse from timber!

Construction of a foundation for a timber bathhouse

A strong and massive bathhouse made of timber with your own hands can be erected on one of two types of foundation: strip and columnar.

To make a strip formwork, you need to build formwork around the entire perimeter and fill it with concrete - exactly to the depth of soil freezing. The height of the foundation itself should be at least half a meter above the ground: this is the only way to protect the lower crowns of beams from excess dampness. But inside the perimeter of the foundation you will need to pour strips of crushed stone or sand. And after two to three weeks, as soon as the concrete hardens, you can begin to lay the first rows of the log house.

To make a columnar foundation for a log bathhouse, you will have to place brick pillars along the perimeter, corners and future locations of the internal load-bearing walls. Under each of the pillars you need to make a concrete “cushion” to avoid their subsidence. The distance between such supports should be 1.5 m, and in rare cases - 2 m.

But, no matter what foundation is chosen, it must be strengthened with reinforcement - for strength and fastening of the crowns. And, of course, ensure reliable waterproofing between the base and the first crown. To do this, a layer of molten bitumen is applied to the horizontal surface of the foundation, which is covered with a continuous layer of roofing felt. And after it hardens, the whole procedure must be done again.

Laying the first crowns of the future bathhouse

So, assembling a bathhouse from timber is quite simple - whether it is according to a marked project, or improvised. The main thing is not to be lazy in using the construction one and not to rush to fasten the crowns.

The first thing you need to do before starting construction of the walls of the bathhouse is to check the horizontal surface of the beam for evenness. But not by eye - for this you will need a level. And the correctness of the entire design of the bathhouse depends on how ideal the first crown turns out to be in this plan.

You need to choose the thickest beams of all the subsequent ones for the first row of the log house, because it is on them that the entire weight of both the walls and the roof will fall. That is why experienced craftsmen usually advise choosing for this purpose the first beam with a cross-section of 20x20 cm, and all subsequent ones - 15x15 cm. Only the length of the beams should be the same.

The actual installation of the first crowns of the log house should begin by placing thin wooden slats along the entire base of the foundation (only they must first be treated with an antiseptic). The thickness of the slats should be no more than 15 mm, and the distance between them should be approximately 25-30 cm. Why is this necessary? So that the lower rows of beams are well protected from dampness and rotting, which will significantly increase the service life of the entire bathhouse, and it is advisable to fill the space between the slats with polyurethane foam or insulation.

There is no need to lay the frame of the bathhouse too tightly - in the future the entire structure will shrink on its own. The lower beam, which is placed on the foundation, does not need any fastening - the pressure of the upper rows will already provide it with the necessary strength. And it will be much easier to replace the entire first row someday, because you won’t have to disassemble the entire bathhouse.

In addition, the beams of the very first row must be processed on all sides (especially carefully the part that is adjacent to the foundation). You can use a modern antiseptic for this, or you can use traditional machine oil.

Methods of building walls

Before making a bathhouse out of timber, it is important to firmly understand the following: such walls are built in a strictly established order. So, first the crowns are laid, aligned and fastened together with wooden dowels or metal pins. They must be driven into specially made holes, the diameter of which ideally matches the diameter of the fastening pins themselves. And holes are drilled at a distance of 1-1.5 m, and the drill even goes through the top beam and half of what lies below. After which the lower beam is removed, dowels with a length equal to the height of the two beams are driven into the holes, and a layer of insulation is laid. And the top beam is put in place.

This is exactly how all the crowns are laid, up to the top two. By the way, there is no need to fasten the top ones. Because at the last stage of building the bathhouse, they will have to be temporarily removed to install ceiling beams.

In addition to this method, there are several more ways to fasten the beams together.

So, if nails are still used, then only without heads - those that sink into the wood, recessed. After all, ordinary ones rust and spoil the wood.

You can fasten the timber between wooden dowels - square beams 18x18 mm, the length of which varies depending on the size of the bursa, but cannot be more than 25 cm. To insert them, you need to make holes with a drill of 21 mm in diameter, after which you drive them into the dowels. And the dowels themselves should be arranged in a checkerboard pattern. By the way, you need to drill the bursa right through.

And finally, it is good to secure the beams with a “Force” spring unit, which looks like a screw with a compression spring built inside. Thanks to this fastening system, there will be no gaps between the parts - after all, the beams will press against each other with all their might. Although this method is expensive, cracks and deformations of the entire structure can be happily avoided.

If you decide to build a good-quality bath house, then be sure to get an accurate professional project, because the work ahead is not easy:

Caulking cracks

Maybe moss, tow and jute - they all cope equally well with their heat-insulating functions. But it is most convenient to work with jute, which is unwound gradually, while laying on top of the beams, and attached to them with the most ordinary nails with a stapler.

There is no need to caulk after using jute. But if tow or moss was used, then at the end of the bath’s shrinkage period it is necessary to caulk absolutely all the cracks between the crowns - for this purpose a hammer, caulk and a wooden spatula will be used. The process itself looks like this: after shrinkage, tow is clogged into the cracks.

Roof construction

So, now let's move on to building the roof. The simplest option is to build, under which to organize an insulated attic with good ventilation. But, usually in a bathhouse there is always not enough extra room to organize a guest room, bedroom, billiard room or home cinema room - why waste valuable meters?

It is only important to insulate it correctly:

Installation of door and window openings

You need to take care in advance about where the doors and windows will be located in the bathhouse. To do this, even during the construction of the walls, you need to leave a small gap in the right places, and after the log house has given its final shrinkage, the planned openings are made in the planned places with a chainsaw:

Natural shrinkage and interior work

The final stage of building a bathhouse made of timber is preparing the log house for the six-month shrinkage period. To do this, as soon as all the work is completed, a series of boards, 40-50 mm thick, are laid on the upper rims, and it is covered with slate or roofing felt. So the bathhouse should overwinter. And only at the end of the shrinkage period can finishing work begin.

That's all! Now all that remains is to protect the lower beams of the bathhouse from dampness, creating a high-quality blind area around:

And you can start internal work: