Wet floor screed: cement, concrete, self-leveling mixtures. How to make a floor screed with your own hands: step-by-step instructions with photos and videos What you need to make a floor screed

In order for the laminate or linoleum to lay perfectly flat, the base for them should be made as smooth as possible, for which you need to learn how to do a professional finishing floor pour, the construction instructions for which are described in detail below. Why it is preferable to do it yourself is quite obvious. After all, this will mean considerable savings of money (which would otherwise be spent on paying for the work of craftsmen) and the acquisition of considerable experience.

Of course, the process of filling the floor can be entrusted to specialists. But many people strive to do and control everything on their own. The first thing you need to do before you start is to prepare everything necessary tools, as well as equipment, the availability of which is required by the technology for installing floor screed in an apartment.

Required Tools

By priority of application you will need: hydraulic level, pencil, tapping thread, tape measure. Also make sure that you have a cord, knitting wire, a stationery knife, wire cutters, a hammer drill and a screwdriver, usually a trowel and a grater, as well as a shovel on hand. Some of the work will be easier to do if you put on shoes rubber boots, the presence of which should be considered in advance.

It is logical that, without building materials, the screed can only be made dry, poured old-fashioned method made of clay, which can be dug behind the house, and then covered with shields. However, this is not the best solution, so we stock up on the required amount of cement and sand. We calculate the mixture consumption by multiplying square meter(in centimeters) to the height of the fill, according to the standard volume formula. One part of the resulting figure is cement, 50 kilograms of which will require 15 liters of water, and another 4 parts are sand. For elasticity, as a plasticizer for heated floor screed, add 100-150 grams of liquid soap.

Add liquid soap for elasticity

And finally, the process itself. The role of the screed is not only to level the floor, it is necessary both to hide underfloor heating pipes and to create an additional layer of insulation or sound insulation in combination with a water barrier. There are different ones, and if you want to get a heat source by hiding pipes in the thickness of cement, in this case a floating one will be used. Simply put, it will not lie on a rigid base of the ceiling, but on a rather soft layer of thermal insulation (we take polystyrene foam boards with sufficient hardness), on top of which the pipes will be located.

The site’s site masters have prepared a special calculator for you. You can easily calculate required amount cement.

How to make a floor screed - sequence of actions

The first and main process is measuring the premises, not purchasing building materials, because while you don’t know the scope of work, you don’t know how much cement or sand you will need. There are many stages of work ahead, and only after taking the first step will you know what numbers to use for screed components.

Master class floor screed - step by step diagram

Step 1: Defining the Horizon and Fill Level

When preparation for floor screed is completed, use a hydraulic level to find the horizon at a height of 1.5 meters, and use a chalk-covered tapping thread to make marking lines.

Then we use a tape measure to measure the distance to the base and find the point farthest from it and the closest to it, thereby determining the difference in levels in the room

Based on the measurements, you can calculate how to properly fill the floor screed, as well as the amount of materials that will be required for it. is 40 millimeters. We complete the marking work by moving the markers down in the corners to the filling level and tapping new lines with a thread along which the new surface grounds.

Step 2: Preparing the Base

The next stage, preparing the floor for the screed, will not require much labor if you plan to install a heating system in the room under the finishing coating.

The role of the substrate in this case will be assigned to the insulation, separated from the floor slab by film waterproofing. A reinforcing mesh is laid on top, and metal-plastic or metal-plastic or propylene pipes, fixed with special fasteners. If pouring a heated floor screed for a film electric heater planned directly on the ceiling, it must be thoroughly cleaned and even washed.

Step 3: Installing beacons by level

Having achieved an acceptable condition of the base or substrate made of insulation with heating elements, it is time to move on to installing beacons, without which it is impossible to install a screed under a heated floor. To do this, we drive dowels 1-1.5 meters apart into two opposing walls along the line of the future screed, to which we tie a cord (possibly nylon).

Exactly along the strings stretched in one plane, lifting and lowering with the help of wooden wedges, we place parallel beacons made of a metal profile 20x40 millimeters at equal intervals (two at a distance of half a meter from the walls).

They are necessary so that the screed under the heated floor will subsequently be leveled against them.

Step 4: Fastening the beacons and installing a thermal seam

Since during the process of laying the solution the beacons can move and change their position in space, they should be carefully secured. Holes are drilled in the ceiling, into which a pair of screws are screwed on both sides of the profile, at a short distance from each end of the pipe and in the middle.

Then a binding wire is wound around the screws so that the beacon is firmly fixed in place.

All that remains is to make a thermal seam around the perimeter of the room, securing a belt of leftover insulation along the lower edge of the walls with liquid nails.

Step 5: Mixing the solution

So, beacons are placed around the room, the thermal joint is securely fixed, it’s time to start making the floor screed. For the solution, we take 50-kilogram bags of cement grade 400, no less, sand is sold by weight or by cubic meters, for work you will need 4 times more of it. Accordingly, in a large container, which can serve as old bath(it is better to use a compact mobile concrete mixer), mix cement and sand in proportions 1:4; When the composition becomes homogeneous, add water. The consistency should be like thick sour cream.

When adding a plasticizer, care should be taken; an overdose will slow down the hardening process of the composition.

Step 6: Filling and leveling with the rule

If you have prepared water heating system in the form of pipes laid on insulation, laying a heated floor in a screed does not require any special technology.

We make sure that a small portion of the solution, placed on a flat place, floats slightly, but does not spread like liquid, that is, it corresponds to the proper degree of density. Then we simply fill the area between the wall opposite the door and the second beacon from it with the mixture (the first one should hide under the solution).

Level the solution using a shovel.

Leveling the solution

Using the rule, we finally bring the mixture to the level of the beacons.

Step 7: The nuances of leveling and removing voids

For those who are not confident in their abilities, it is advisable to watch a training video in advance on how to do it correctly. rough screed flooring with your own hands, the video will tell you a simple way to achieve the desired result without flaws.

For example, few beginners know that when working with the rule, it is advisable to level the solution so that it is slightly higher than the beacons, then after shrinkage it will be level with them. If you have a heating system, it is extremely possible to screed a floor without voids. simple method– it is enough to slightly support the reinforcing mesh so that the mixture covers it and the pipes from all sides.

Step 8: Leveling with a rule after hardening

When cement mortar will cover the entire area of ​​the room, you usually have to work by walking directly on the liquid mixture, for which, in fact, you need to prepare rubber boots before laying the screed on the floor.

Then all that remains is to wait for the filling to harden enough to move around on it. As a rule, the drying time of the floor screed takes at least two weeks, during which you need to regularly moisten the surface with water every other day. After the cement has hardened, you should take the rule and remove it by scraping. upper layer to the lighthouses, collecting the excess in a bucket.

Step 9: Removing beacons from hardened cement

The video will best tell you how to complete the floor screed, but there is nothing complicated about it, and often only instructions are enough. After the surface has become smoother and the beacons have appeared from under the layer of mortar, take a spatula and carefully cut through the thickness of the fill on both sides of the profiles.

Then we cut the binding wire with wire cutters and remove the pipes, tapping them with a hammer in the process to avoid lifting the stuck layers.

Pipe extraction surface

To do this, add a little fresh cement and water to the scraped solution, which is placed in a bucket, mix thoroughly and fill the grooves from the profile pipes with the mixture.

When the remnants of the cement-sand mixture are removed, all we have left is to grout the floor screed.

It is made using a grater and water. We start from the far corner of the room, lightly moistening the fill with water and carefully smoothing the surface with a grater.

After finishing the “polishing”, when the base takes the proper form that you wanted, stationery knife cut off the excess thermal seam flush with the surface, the rest will subsequently be hidden under the baseboards. Now the work has been successfully completed and you can move on to the next room.

Floor is one of the main elements of our home. We walk on it with our feet, pieces of furniture and household appliances. From this, obviously, follow the requirements that floors in a residential area must meet: floors must be smooth, warm, hygienic, comfortable, durable, and have sound and heat insulating properties.

It is the presence of a high-quality screed that ultimately ensures these properties of the floor. In addition, floor slabs, which most often form the base of our floors, can have differences of up to 10 cm, as well as the presence of reinforcement protruding from the slabs - all this makes the installation of screed simply necessary. Screeding requires certain skills and knowledge. In this article we will look at how you can make a floor screed with your own hands.

After deleting the old one flooring what was under this coating remains, and most often this base is unsuitable for laying a new coating.
The most labor-intensive case is not so rare - this is the need to install a new floor screed, but simply to level the base. Construction term“Screed” means a continuous covering that connects (pulls together) all the elements of the underlying base and creates a flat and durable base for laying a new floor covering. To put it even simpler, a screed is a layer of concrete or other monolithic material that provides a horizontal surface.

But you can level the base for laying a new floor covering sheet material. Previously, chipboard and hardboard were widely used, but now waterproof plywood is most often used (both chipboard and hardboard were not water-resistant.

First of all, let's look at a few specific aspects:

Requirements for floor screeds

• When laying the screed, you must remember that the floors in all rooms of your

dwellings must be on the same level. This means that the height of the screed should be

equal to the final floor height, minus the thickness of the finishing coating at a given

• If you do the drying yourself, the easiest option is dry

screed Also, this best option for rooms with wooden

floors - since they may simply not withstand the concrete screed. Dry

A screed is a sheet of DVL or GVL mounted on an expanded clay backing.

• A screed in a bathroom, among other things, also requires

waterproofing. In addition, before installing the screed, you must ensure that

serviceability and efficiency of plumbing communications.

Tools for preparing the base for flooring:

mixer, wide spatula, needle roller, “crampons” for walking on the floor, electric drill, screwdriver, electric jigsaw or another saw, broom, floor brush, vacuum cleaner.

Floor screed tools

• Preparing the floor surface for screed installation is quite simple:
  — first we remove the old coating, remove debris, dust, degrease fatty
• spots.
  - by using laser level, apply marks throughout the room, and then on
• Based on these marks, we set beacons.

• prime the cleaned surface in order to reduce the porosity and absorbency of the base;

Concrete (wet) floor screed

The mixture can be purchased at any hardware store, or
make it yourself. This will require cement, sand and water.
The proportions of cement and sand depend on what load is expected on the floor
in this place. In places where heavy furniture will be installed, 3
parts sand 1 part cement. In places with less load, the proportion of cement
can be reduced somewhat. If the height differences in the room exceed 5-7 cm,
Before installing the screed, it is necessary to install metal mesh.

So, let's start installing the screed:

— we start by determining the maximum height difference and calculate
quantity and proportions of the mixture for the solution
- if necessary, lay a layer of waterproofing
— install beacons, fix them with plaster
- clean and prime the surface
- prepare and lay cement-sand mortar. You need to start with
the wall opposite the exit.

- it is important to remember that the heavy loads in one room must be laid continuously
pace, and the period is no more than 1 day
- level the surface as you lay it using a metal rule and a needle
roller
— after installation, let the screed dry. At the same time, we periodically spill it
water for 3 days - this will help avoid concrete cracking. Important
prevent falling sun rays and a draft into the room where the screed is drying
- when the screed has dried, cut off the bumps with a metal rule and rub it
trowel
After 28 days your screed will be ready for use. You can lay tiles
start earlier - usually 5 days after installing the screed.

Self-leveling screed Self-leveling screed

Self-leveling screed

This is a special mixture sold in construction stores. Used in

if it is necessary to obtain the most even surfaces.
- first carefully prepare the floor surface
- prime the surface. In some cases (excessive dust on the floor, etc.)

priming will need to be repeated
- prepare the solution, strictly following the instructions on the package
- laying the mortar, start from the corner opposite the front door
- level the surface with a distribution roller
- let it dry. It is important to protect the surface from water at this time.

sunlight, temperature changes. Typically, after 10 hours,

You can already walk on the surface.

Dry screed

Recently, this type of screed has become increasingly popular. This

contribute undeniable advantages:
- this type of screed does not need to be dried
— almost immediately after installing the screed, you can lay the finishing coating
- significantly more lightweight design than a wet screed

However, such a screed is afraid of water, so when installing it, laying

waterproofing

So, the main stages of installing a dry screed:

- laying waterproofing
- laying damping material along the walls, which will provide compensation

thermal expansion/constriction of the screed
- laying expanded clay bedding - checking the evenness of the laying with a laser

level. If necessary, trim with a rubber mallet.
— we lay gypsum fiber boards, fasten them with screws and glue. Let the screed stand for 2-3 hours,

after which you can begin installing the finishing coating.

Video: How to make a floor screed with your own hands

Comments:

Having figured out how to make a floor screed yourself, you can qualitatively prepare the base for laying the finishing coating, leveling out height differences and eliminating other defects. Used to prepare floors different types screeds. At the same time, you can handle the implementation of each of the main methods yourself.

Types of screeds

Before you figure it out yourself, familiarize yourself with the features of the main types of such coating. The following types of screeds are distinguished:

1. Concrete screed. The most popular and widely used option. Most often used for initial leveling of the base if large unevenness is present.
2. Self-leveling mixtures. Perfect for preparing the base for laying any finishing finishing material. Maximum thickness layer - 30 mm.
3. Dry. Allows you to level out 3-12 cm height differences. They can be installed by laying plywood, chipboard and other similar materials on joists, as well as using special sheets based on gypsum fiber.

When choosing a specific option for arranging a screed, you need to take into account the initial state of the floor, as well as the requirements for the base, determined by the characteristics of the finishing coating and other points characteristic of a particular situation.

Return to contents

Requirements for floor screed

The screed must meet the following requirements:

• have the same density in thickness at different points in the room;
• meet regulatory requirements for strength and compressive loads;
• have a thickness of at least 20 mm for the floors and at least 40 mm for the heat or sound insulation layer.

In places where pipes are covered with a screed, the thickness of the layer should exceed the diameter of the hidden products by 15 mm.

If the screed is installed on top of a soundproofing layer, a 20-50 mm gap must be left between the walls and the leveling coating. The main soundproofing material is used to fill the gap.

A continuous monolithic screed is poured over a pre-equipped moisture-proofing film, laid with an overlap on the walls of the room.

The surface of the screed should not have cracks, chips or other types of defects.

Return to contents

Preparatory activities

Work on arranging any kind of screed begins with proper preparation. Take these measures seriously and you can significantly save time and effort in further stages.

Set for work:

1. Building level.
2. Tape measure for measurements.
3. Master OK.
4. Rule.
5. A construction mixer for preparing the solution or an electric drill with an appropriate attachment.
6. Putty knife.
7. Sharp knife.
8. Profiles (slats) for arranging beacons.
9. Container for preparing mixtures.

For screeding, you can use both ready-made and homemade mortar.

Traditionally, the mixture is prepared from a portion of cement, three times more clean sand and water, in a volume sufficient to obtain a solution of normal thickness.

To prevent cracks and various kinds chips in the screed, the composition of the finished cement-sand mixture is supplemented with plasticizers.

When eliminating differences exceeding 50-70 mm, you need to use a metal mesh or special fiber.

Thanks to this addition, the strength of the screed will be significantly increased.

Start preparing the base. The preparation procedure largely depends on the initial state of the base being treated. General list preparatory activities as follows:

1. The floor covering, if present, is dismantled.
2. All kinds of construction waste are removed.
3. The base is dedusted and degreased using appropriate solvents.
4. The maximum permissible lifting height of the foundation being constructed is set. To do this, appropriate marks are created on the walls of the room along the perimeter. The most convenient and high-quality work is done using a laser level.
5. Beacons are being installed. Most convenient option- smooth metal profiles. For the rest, be guided by the situation.

Return to contents

Guide to pouring concrete screed

Examine the prepared base for curvature. Set the maximum differences in height and calculate the composition of the mixture for pouring the screed.

If necessary, lay a layer of waterproofing material.

Install the beacons in accordance with the level and secure them with suitable fasteners. Eg, reliable fastening able to provide alabaster.

Carefully prime the surface with an appropriate compound.

Prepare the mixture for pouring the screed. Prepare the mixture in small portions. Focus on your own capabilities. In general, experts recommend preparing the mixture in a volume that you can use in 1-1.5 hours.

Apply the prepared composition to the base. You must have time to screed the room within 24 hours. Breaks are not allowed.

To level the solution over the surface, use the rule. You can also use a needle roller or simply a flat board of suitable length.

After arranging the screed for some time (usually up to 10 days), it will need to be moistened abundantly. Without wetting, the screed may crack.

Eliminate the possibility of drafts. Do not expose the poured solution to direct sunlight. In hot weather, after moistening, it is recommended to cover the screed with a thick layer of polyethylene.

After the screed has hardened to such an extent that you can safely walk on it, check the evenness of the coating. Cut off the protrusions with a metal rule. Treat the surface with a special plastering and troweling machine.

According to the standards, the concrete screed dries within 28 days. In case as finishing cladding planned to be used ceramic tiles, the waiting period can be reduced to a week.

Return to contents

Arrangement of self-leveling screed

Prepare the base. Remove dirt and dust. Approach these events as responsibly as possible. In the future, all uncleaned dirt may float to the surface.

Prime the base. In some situations, the primer must be applied in a double layer (if the base is absorbent or highly dusty). Focus on the situation.

Prepare the solution according to the manufacturer's instructions. To stir the mixture, it is best to use a mixer or at least a drill with an appropriate attachment. As a rule, after mixing, self-leveling mixtures should be left for a few minutes to oxygenate. Please clarify this point individually in the instructions for the selected mixture.

Start pouring the finished mixture onto the floor from the wall opposite to the entrance door to the room. Control the thickness of the fill using a level. Pour the solution parallel to the wall, in small portions.

Level the poured mixture with a distribution roller.

The drying time of the mixture depends on the conditions in the room and the thickness of the poured layer. In most cases, the floor can be walked on 10-12 hours after pouring.

It is important that during drying the mixture is not exposed to temperature changes, direct sunlight, drafts and moisture.

Technologies and sequence of actions for the majority finishing works have long been known. In view of this, many people try to save on paying qualified specialists and carry out the finishing themselves.

This approach is quite sound, but requires thorough preparation and all the nuances of the work. How to make a floor screed in an apartment, in what ways this can be done and what is required for this - this and much more will be discussed in this material.

Why is a screed needed and what functions does it perform?

The base of the floor in apartment buildings is iron concrete floor, which is laid with the smooth side on load-bearing walls. Due to this, the ceiling of the lower floor is formed.

The second side of the floor slab is not always level, but since it forms the floor top floor, building codes allow certain differences in height on its surface.

The installation of a floor screed in an apartment is aimed at eliminating significant damage to the base, differences in heights and floor levels relative to the horizon. That is, by pouring and backfilling dry, semi-dry and wet solutions, an almost ideal Smooth surface, ready for laying any floor covering and any material.

Pouring concrete mixtures allows you to create an almost completely flat and seamless surface

Floor screed allows you to strengthen the surface concrete slab, increase the strength characteristics and quality of the base. For apartments located on the first floors, it is especially important to use soundproofing and heat-insulating materials, which are laid before pouring leveling screeds.

More detailed information about materials and can be found in the corresponding article, which touches on the methods and technology of these works.

When arranging in non-residential rooms and target premises, by pouring a leveling layer, you can set a technological slope or raise the overall floor level. For example, by pouring a cement-sand mixture in the bathroom, you can create a slope for water drainage, which will prevent flooding of the entire apartment in the event of an unexpected flood.

Types and methods of arrangement in residential apartments

Basic methods of leveling concrete foundations in apartments and houses

Concrete floors are rightfully considered the most suitable for repair, restoration and installation of additional heating systems. A reliable foundation can withstand heavy loads, which makes it reasonable to use more complex and modern methods.

To decide which floor screed is best, you should know technical condition concrete slab, operational requirements for the base and the floor covering that will be used for cladding.

To create a flat floor you can use the following types screeds:

1. Concrete or cement-sand.
2. Self-leveling.
3. Dry or semi-dry.

Pouring concrete and cement-sand mortars is traditional way adjustments to floor levels in private houses, apartments and non-residential premises. Concrete compositions are most often used to eliminate severe unevenness, damage to the base, and provide sound and heat insulation.

Self-leveling compounds are a more modern and practical type of screed. Are used as comprehensive solution, provide for the application and filling of two different mixtures - leveler and leveler.

The first is similar to a concrete mixture and serves to eliminate deeper irregularities. The second is a finishing composition that eliminates minor differences and defects on the surface.

Dry and semi-dry methods are used when adjusting the base level, starting with differences of 3-5 cm. They are a direct alternative traditional methods, since they exert much less pressure on the concrete base. Recommended for installation in apartments of old houses, for laying laminate flooring, linoleum flooring and carpet.

Sequence of preparation of the old surface

The technology of work and the story of how to properly make a screed should begin with a description of the actions aimed at preparing concrete base. Regardless of the type and type of materials used, preparatory and calculation work is carried out in the same way.

To eliminate minor damage, a cement-sand mortar is used; for deep damage, jointing is performed

At the stage of preparing the base of the floor, before installing the screed, perform the following steps:

• opening the old floor structure;
• removal of dust and debris;
• repair and repair of damage;
• determination of height difference;
• calculation " zero level”;
• hydro-, sound- and thermal insulation of the surface;
• installation of parallel guides and beacons.

Dismantling of old trim, baseboards, flooring and other floor structures is carried out using construction tools or improvised means. Used to remove dust from the surface construction vacuum cleaner, broom, mop and dustpan.

If potholes, cracks and chips of the slab are detected, repair work is carried out using building mixtures. To fill small depressions, a conventional cement-sand mixture is used, which is applied to the treated damage.

When eliminating deep cracks, the surface jointing method is used. To do this, perpendicular cuts are made through the crack, to a depth of 20-30 mm and a thickness of 3-5 mm. Next, the cuts and damage are cleaned of dust again, primed in two layers and sealed with concrete mortar.

After eliminating all the flaws, you can begin performing settlement operations. To do this, you should prepare one of the instruments for measuring the level relative to the horizon, a tape measure, a pencil and a sheet of paper. As an example, we will describe the sequence of actions for a regular bubble level.

We measure 50-100 cm from the surface of the floor slab and place a mark on the plane of the wall. Next, using a level and a mark made, draw a horizontal line around the perimeter of the room.

Diagram illustrating the stages of finding the zero level and marking the surface for pouring concrete mixtures

From this line along the perimeter of the room, measure and record the distance to the floor surface. After performing the necessary actions, the smallest one is selected and great importance. Add 3-5 cm to the small value and draw a similar line on the plane of the wall. This will be the so-called “zero level” or the height of the floor screed.

Next, from the very large number subtract smallest value and get the approximate level of differences. You can carry out several calculations, but the resulting value will still be approximately, but it will make it clear which type of screed is most rational to use.

The arrangement of the waterproofing and thermal insulation layer depends on the technology of work and the materials used. carried out according to basic principles and will be considered during the description of the work technology.

Main stages of work when using concrete mixture

Application wet screed for leveling, is the most common and time-consuming method. Most often used for height differences of 5-7 cm, since the minimum thickness cement mixture should be at least 3-5 cm.

Arrangement concrete screed in an apartment can be done in two ways. The first involves pouring the solution directly onto concrete surface floor. The second involves laying waterproofing coatings, gluing temperature tape and pouring mortar over this layer.

For apartments located on the first floor, it is recommended to use the second method, since this floor design prevents the penetration of moisture and reduces the level of penetrating sounds.

To mix ready-made mixtures and dry ingredients, use a convenient container and an electric drill with an attachment

As a mixture, it is recommended to use ready-made compounds that are diluted with water according to the instructions. For thick-layer structures, it is recommended to reinforce the composition with fiberglass. When mixing the mixture yourself, you can use proportions such as 1 part M400 cement to 3 parts fine-grained sand.

When installing beacons, they rest on two simple rules. The distance between the wall and the first guide should be no more than 30 cm. The length of the tool for distributing the mixture or rule should be greater than the distance between adjacent guides.

The main stages of installing a floor screed in an apartment - placing beacons and pouring mortar

Floor screed technology will look like this:

1. Laying in progress waterproofing coating with an approach to the walls of 15-20 cm. For this you can use plastic film thickness more than 100 microns. The joining of the canvases is done overlapping and taped with paper tape.
2. Glued along the perimeter of the room, to the height of the screed expansion tape made of foamed polystyrene. For fixation, you can use construction tape or a stapler.
3. Install linear guides from a profile for plasterboard. To do this, at the height of the “zero level”, cords are pulled or copper wire. Based on the installation rules, a cement solution is laid out on the surface of the waterproofing and a ridge or oblong slide is formed.
4. A plasterboard profile is laid on top of the ridge and pressed into the solution. The upper part of the profile should be flush with the stretched cord. Then repeat similar steps for other beacons. Check the guides for general compliance with the level and leave them while the fixing composition dries.
5. Start mixing the required portion concrete mortar. To do this, use a sufficient container and a drill with an attachment. The solution is mixed for 3-5 minutes, after which it is left for the same time and mixed again.
6. The concrete mixture is supplied from the far corner of the room. When leveling, the solution is distributed over the surface with uniform zigzag movements using a metal rule.
7. Upon completion of the floor screed work, the base is covered with dense material and left for 24-35 hours. The next day, dismantling is carried out plasterboard profile and elimination of formed seams.

During the drying process, which will last at least 21 days, it is advisable to wet the surface once a day. It is highly undesirable to disrupt the natural processes of moisture evaporation by ventilating the room and turning on electric heating devices.

The process of leveling the floor of an apartment using a semi-dry mortar is almost identical to a wet screed, with the exception of preparing and working with the mixture.

Fiber fiber is added even to semi-dry mixtures and perfectly reinforces the leveling layer

The solution for semi-dry screed is mixed in the same proportion - 1 to 3. If desired, the required amount of fiberglass is added, calculating 500-600 g per 1 m3. The amount of water is determined empirically– the mixed solution should not be fluid.

To check quality you can use simple rules– when compressed, moisture should come out of the mixture, and the solution itself should retain its shape. Once applied to the surface, the semi-dry mixture should not adhere to the rule or grout, but should form a smooth layer of wet mixture.

The mixture is supplied, as in the previous case, from the far corner of the room. After filling the solution, it is distributed and compacted. This can be done using an ordinary shovel - the solution is supplied in excess to certain places, slightly leveled and compacted with feet.

The compacted solution is leveled using a rule. After leveling, the surface is rubbed with wooden grout. The process is repeated until the floor is completely leveled. Next, follow exactly the same recommendations as for the wet method.

After filling and leveling the dry aggregates, I lay the gypsum fiber boards

Dry floor screed is performed using expanded clay with different sizes fractions – 1-5 mm. To carry out this work, all the steps described above are repeated, up to the installation of the guides. Next, fill with dry aggregate to the “zero level”. Expanded clay should be lightly compacted and leveled along the guides.

After filling the area of ​​the entire room, gypsum fiber sheets are laid. This coating is characterized by increased strength and ease of installation. The joining of the canvases occurs along the folded edge, which is coated special glue and is fixed with self-tapping screws.

Laying of sheets begins from the entrance to the room. To lay the first panels, you should carefully place the gypsum fiber board on the embankment at some distance from the entrance, so that you can stand on it and mount the first two or three panels. Next, the canvas is removed and further installation of the slabs is carried out.

For both methods, after completing the work, the damper tape is trimmed and a suitable floor covering is laid. As an example, we recommend watching a video on how to make a floor screed in an apartment.

Floor screed can be “wet” or “dry”. Now we are most interested in the first option. In general, among the “wet” screeds the following types are distinguished:

• when the screed is placed directly on a concrete floor or brick (stone) base. This is the most common type of work;


• floor screed is also done in bathrooms and kitchens over waterproofing, especially if it is putty;


• in cold rooms, screed is sometimes laid on top of the heat-insulating layer;


• finally, there is an “advanced” option, when a so-called self-leveling floor is laid on top of the screed itself perfect alignment surfaces.

In this review, we will look at aspects of laying the most common type of “wet” screed based on a cement-sand mixture. This type of floor screed can be done with your own hands if you take into account all the rules for this type of home renovation.

Tools and materials needed to create a screed:

• chisel and hammer;


• bumper;


• drill;


• spatula or trowel;


• container for preparing the solution;


• water, cement, sand (or special construction mixtures);


• self-tapping screws with dowels;


• special fixing fasteners;


• rack metal beacons;


• pencil, marker, chalk;


• ruler, tape measure;


• rule;


• building level.

Preparing the floor for screed

Cleaning up.
Cement-sand screed is laid on stone, concrete or brick foundations. Therefore, to begin with, we remove all previous old building layers - outdated screed, waterproofing, etc. - until the “rough” floor appears. To do this, we will use a hammer, chisel and chipper. Next, it is advisable to seal all large cracks or cracks.

Then we remove all the garbage, construction remains, dust, cleaning the room, doing wet cleaning. After drying, prime the surface well.

Important! All work with pipes - their installation, replacement, etc. must be done on preparatory stage before laying subsequent layers of waterproofing and screed.

If necessary, lay a layer of thermal or waterproofing on the floor with some overlap on the walls. You can read about this separately.

Marking and installation of beacons.
Let's move on to marking the room. This is very important stage, requiring accuracy. For marking, special metal rack beacons are used (it is better to buy them at a hardware store). Although sometimes, in the old fashioned way, they use strong wooden slats, and instead of screws and fasteners, they use piles of plaster.

To start with, use building level We are looking for the highest “mountain” and the lowest “hole” of the foundation.

Mark first high place and project this height onto the wall. It is along this marker, at the highest point with some addition on top, that the entire system of lighthouses is subsequently aligned. This is because the final thickness of your screed should be 2-3 cm higher maximum height grounds.

As for the lowest point, there is no need to place a beacon here; simply assessing the vertical spread of the value will allow us to find out the approximate thickness of the future concrete screed.

Step back from the main wall by 20-30 cm, from the adjacent wall by 5 cm, and draw a straight line running parallel to the walls.

The best way to do this is to use the following method. To begin, drill holes at the marked extreme corner points, departing the required distance from the walls. Next, we insert dowels here and screw in self-tapping markers. Then, through these 2 screws at the ends of each line, we pull a nylon thread, which runs along the entire length of the room, with the exception of the indentation from the walls. The thread will be a great help for detailing the markings in the future.

In principle, instead of thread, you can also use rectilinear beacon slats laid out along the length and width of the room, taking into account the distances from the walls, this will be a little faster, but the thread is still more accurate and reliable. It's your choice.

Let's move on to the next parallel line. You can also start by marking and marking the extreme points near the walls with self-tapping screws and tighten the thread. Important! When marking each subsequent line “in latitude”, use the rule, taking into account its length - they range from 50 cm to 3 m. It is better to take the rule from 1.5 to 2.0 meters in length ( last option preferable). In this case, the markers must be placed so that they rest against the ends of the rule. In other words, if, for example, your rule is 2 m, then make a mark for the screw on the next line no more than every 1.9 m, that is, slightly less than the length of the rule. Make sure that in the end the rule fits on a kind of beacon “rails”. In general, the width and number of row spacing will depend on the length of your rule and the geometry of the room. If, for example, it is 6 m, the length of the rule is 1.5 m, then you will have 4 rows of guide rails, taking into account all the indentations.

Afterwards, we divide all the lines into more detailed segments approximately 40-80 cm long, depending on the footage. Intermediate markers are very necessary - this will greatly strengthen the entire system of guiding beacons. We retreat from extreme point and make intermediate holes along the thread, insert dowels, then screw in self-tapping markers and “adjust” the screw heads to the desired height. A thread stretched between the two outer markers will serve as your guide.

The top heads of the screws should be at the same level, focusing on the maximum “hill” of the foundation plus the planned number of centimeters of screed above this level. Yes, there is important nuance- the height at which the heads of your screws are located should be 5-10 mm lower than the final layer of screed, based on the height of the beacon slats.

Then we fix the guide rails with self-tapping screws. Now they should already be walking along the planned height marked by the level. Beacons can be mounted using special fasteners (which are pre-attached with screws). Again, make sure that the beacons are at the same height according to the building level markings.

That's it, the marking is over.

The process of creating a screed with your own hands

Let's start with the solution.
If you did not buy a special mixture in the store, then you need to prepare it with a cement-sand mortar. Standard method preparing the mixture - take 3 parts sand for 1 part cement (ratio 1 to 3). It is better to buy special cement and sand.

Place all this together with water (in a 50 to 50 ratio) in a container and mix thoroughly with a spatula, trowel or a special attachment for a hammer drill. If necessary, add water and stir the solution again to a dough-like consistency. Sometimes a little is added to the cement-sand mixture for strength and to avoid moisture loss. starting putty, adhesive mixture for tiles or a special additive - plasticizer.

If you bought a special dry mixture - the one here is simpler - you need to pour it into a bowl of water and mix very thoroughly. In 5-10 minutes the solution will be ready. Most importantly, don't forget to read the instructions.

Consumption standard screed calculated using the following approximate formula. For 1 sq. m of room, 2 kg of solution is required per layer 1 mm thick. For example, you plan the thickness of the screed to be 4 cm, then about 80 kg will be consumed for 1 “square” of area cement-sand mortar(1mm*10*2 kg.*4 cm), of which 20 kg is cement and 60 kg is sand. Consumption for special building mixtures is indicated in the instructions.

Laying (filling) screed.
After fixing the beacons, we will begin laying the cement-sand mortar. By the way, in this work you would benefit from an assistant who will stir the solution while you are laying the screed.

It is better to make the screed so thick that it is at least 2 cm higher from the maximum point of the base foundation. In this case, the total thickness of the screed usually varies from 2-3 cm to 8-10 cm, although it can be thicker. It is not recommended to make a screed thinner than 2 cm, otherwise it will become defective. If you buy a special mixture, the thickness of the screed is traditionally indicated in the instructions.

So, first we lay it out in piles, then we level it over the area using a level that moves along special guide rails along our markings.

The solution must begin to be laid on the strip between the beacons from the wall that is opposite entrance doors. Level up concrete mixture you need to move the rule “toward yourself” and move it a little from one side to the other. Also try not only to level the mixture with the rule, but also to compact the concrete a little with a trowel.

Smooth until there are no bumps left on top. If there are grooves somewhere, add the solution there and level the mixture again. It is recommended to pierce the selected places tie with ordinary wire so that excess air escapes.

Level not to the very end, marked with a level - leave about 2 mm above the beacons - the screed will settle a little later.

Sometimes repairmen strengthen the screed with a special reinforcing mesh, which is laid directly on the laid mortar. This will make the screed much stronger. This is especially true for concrete joints, strong cracks, etc. Traditionally, such a mesh is laid if the screed is thicker than 5-6 cm. The mesh size should be approximately 10 by 10 cm.

After the cement-sand screed has set, you can remove the beacons and carefully cover the holes and grooves. Remember that the “sticking” time of the cement-sand mixture is about 45-60 minutes, but the screed will not dry completely soon - the recommended time for further use of the coating (laying decorative covering, finishing, etc.) - at least after 3 weeks. All subsequent finishing work cannot begin until our screed is completely dry.

In principle, this is the immediate repair work on laying cement-sand screed completed.

Final works.
After you have laid the screed and it has “set”, it needs to be watered periodically every 4-5 days with ordinary water (you can wet the floor with a construction roller). This will help in the future to avoid cracking of the screed and its peeling. While the mixture dries, you can cover the screed with ordinary polyethylene to retain moisture. Drafts are not allowed, so close all windows and doors tightly during the drying period; You should also not use thermal electrical appliances installed close to the screed.

That's all! Good luck with your renovation and smooth floor!