Cleaning, updating and restoration of natural linoleum

Marmoleum is not only beautiful, but also an environmentally friendly floor covering that is wear-resistant. Like any material, natural linoleum requires care.

To extend the service life of the coating, restore shine and original appearance, it is recommended to carry out a general cleaning of the marmoleum every 1-2 years (depending on the intensity of use of the coating).

Below we clearly demonstrate the “restoration” of the appearance of natural linoleum - marmoleum, at one of Our facilities.

Marmoleum was intensively used in the corridors of the institute for 2 years and after this time we updated it. We want to show you step by step the entire process of updating natural linoleum:

So, in photo 1 (below) you see what the marmoleum looked like after 2 years of intensive use.

Rice. 1

We begin the process of updating/restoring marmoleum:

Step 1. Cleaning (Fig. 2).

On the most contaminated areas of the floor (dark streaks, stubborn dirt), rub diluted Forbo 891 cleaner (3 caps per 2 liters of water) and leave for 15 minutes, let it dissolve dirt particles for easier cleaning.

After 15 minutes, wash the entire floor with water adding Forbo 891 cleaner in a lower concentration (1:100 or 1 cap per 2 liters of water).

Step 2. We thoroughly rinse the floor with plain clean water to remove any remaining cleaner and dirt (wash twice).

Rice. 2

Step 3. On a clean, dry floor, apply the first layer of Forbo 898 mastic (it can be matte/glossy), in this case glossy mastic was used. (mastic is applied in 2 layers).

We distribute the mastic over the entire surface using a lint-free cloth, or (as in this case), treat a large area of ​​the floor using a special mop-polisher. Let the floor dry completely before applying a second coat of mastic. Important: when distributing the mastic, rub it in a circular motion and do not allow the mastic to accumulate (whitish spots or streaks).

Rice. 3. Mastic is applied in 1 layer.

Step 4. After the first layer has completely dried (about 30 minutes), repeat step 3 and apply a second layer of mastic.

Rice. 4. Mastic is applied in 2 layers.

Step 5. Allow the floor to dry completely (at least 30 minutes). You should refrain from walking on the polished floor until it is completely dry.

Rice. 5. Result.

(On the left - it was, on the right - the Updated Marmoleum).

We offer an integrated approach to working with floor coverings, including installation, dismantling and further care of floor coverings.

Here you can find a line of products for the protection, care and restoration of natural linoleum-marmoleum, and get advice on the care of any other type of floor covering.

We are glad to be of service to you.

What is marmoleum? This is a new material for flooring, the production of which is rapidly developing. In the future, marmoleum will most likely replace all types of floor coverings, except for fine wood parquet, which will remain as a luxury item.

• This explosive spread of marmoleum is due to its truly outstanding advantages:
• Marmoleum is absolutely environmentally friendly, it is made only from natural ingredients, and they are so cheap that counterfeiting is not economically justified.
• Marmoleum is non-toxic, does not cause allergies, and in addition also has bactericidal properties.
• Marmoleum is cheap: a marmoleum floor is 15-30% cheaper than the cheapest current material - laminate.
• Marmoleum flooring does not require additional insulation or thermal insulation: the material itself has insulating properties.
• Marmoleum is durable and hygienic: it does not fade, does not swell when wet and does not warp, withstands enormous local loads, and even spilled paint does not stick to it. The guaranteed service life of marmoleum is 20 years, but judging by the structure and manufacturing technology, in the future it will be increased to 100 years.
• Marmoleum does not accumulate static electricity and is not flammable: a cigarette butt thrown on it will smolder without leaving a trace, and it is only possible to burn through marmoleum with an autogenous gun.
• Marmoleum is decorative: it can be painted in a variety of colors, textured to resemble wood, stone, etc. Currently, marmoleum is produced in 100 primary colors and more than 2000 shades.

And finally, marmoleum is extremely easy to work with: literally a preschooler can do the laying of marmoleum with his own hands.

A little history

How did such a wonderful material come into being? This took several centuries.

Even in ancient times, fabrics were impregnated with oil to increase their durability. By the 17th century In Europe, jute came into use - a very coarse and durable burlap made from fibers of plants of the genus Corchorus linden family: Indian flax, Calcutta hemp, Tossa jute. At the same time, oiled jute fabric, coated with various hardening compounds, began to be used for flooring. The prehistory of marmoleum ended in 1863 with British Patent No. 209/1860 for linoleum, issued to Frederick Walton. In 1864, mass production of linoleum began.

Walton managed to develop a very cheap and fairly durable topcoat based on linseed oil, pine resin (resin), wood flour, natural dyes and chalk. After World War II, natural linoleum replaced PVC-based linoleum, but the global oil crisis and increased environmental awareness revived the demand for natural linoleum, which contributed to the improvement of its manufacturing technology.

By the beginning of the 90s, even cheaper and higher-quality substitutes for linseed oil and resin, obtained from highly productive tropical crops, were found. At the same time, a third, intermediate layer of pressed cork chips was introduced into the linoleum structure. The finishing touch was the use of hot dry pressing technology, developed for the production of MDF, in the production of linoleum.

The coatings obtained in this way went on sale under the general name marmoleum. In fact, marmoleum is natural linoleum taken to the limit of its perfection.

Marmoleum is especially good for children's rooms.

Disadvantages of Marmoleum

There is no such thing as complete perfection, so marmoleum also has its drawbacks.

1. Firstly, marmoleum is fragile, especially around the edges, and certain rules must be followed when working with it; see below. You can roll marmoleum into a roll once with the base facing out.
2. Secondly, marmoleum spreads a little over time and hardens. This is good for the floor: you don’t need to carefully seal the seams, they will come together on their own. But when buying marmoleum, you need to carefully study the manufacturer’s instructions for that particular brand and check the shelf life. If boxes with tiles or rolls were subjected to careless handling during transportation, some of the material may end up with cracks, so you need to look for a seller with a guarantee.
3. Thirdly, marmoleum is heavy and at the same time retains residual plasticity along the layers for a long time. For the floor, this is again good: there is no need for careful leveling of the base; Marmoleum will cover irregularities of a quarter or even a third of its thickness, and its surface will remain smooth. But you can’t use marmoleum to decorate walls and especially ceilings: the coating will “float” under its own weight. Marmoleum is exclusively a floor covering.
4. Fourthly, marmoleum does not cut well and it is impossible to achieve a smooth, even cut, like on laminate or MDF. Therefore, marmoleum is cut only along the walls to size, where the cut is covered by the baseboard. That is, the decorative possibilities of marmoleum when laying it independently are limited to laying out a pattern from standard tiles.

Characteristics, classification, standard sizes

The technical characteristics of marmoleum have actually already been described. It remains to add that it can withstand a load of 160 kg/sq.m. without permanent deformation. cm (!), its specific gravity is 2.6 - 3.4 kg/sq. m, and the total thickness is 2-4 mm depending on the class.

Marmoleum is available in the following classes:

• 41-43 – top decorative layer more than 3 mm thick. Withstands up to 100 thousand attacks per day for 5 years. Designed for public spaces with a large flow of visitors; for example, large international airports.
• 31-33 – industrial. The thickness of the decorative layer is up to 2.5 mm. It holds alternating loads worse than 41-43, but is more resistant to static loads.
• 21-23 – general purpose. It differs from industrial only in its thinner coating (up to 2 mm) and in price - it is cheaper.

Conclusion: do not buy the thickest and most expensive marmoleum for your home. From the legs of concentrated loads: cabinets, stands for an aquarium, holes can form in it over time. For yourself, buy the cheapest one.

The standard sizes of marmoleum are as follows:

1. Rolls are 2 m wide. Rolled marmoleum is not suitable for self-installation - to handle it, you need a loader, a crane and a team of experienced riggers. Once you have rolled out the roll, you cannot roll it back. Due to the heaviness and fragility of the material, working with long strips in an apartment is extremely inconvenient.
2. Tiles 50x50 cm and 30x30 cm. They are laid with glue, like PVC or ceramic tiles.
3. Panels 90x30 cm. Lay like tiles.

Laying marmoleum

Tool

When laying marmolium, laminate tools must be used carefully: the edges of the tiles or panels are fragile. It is better to stock up on a wooden or rubber hammer (mallet) and a rule (clamp-hook) with a wide hook, at least 150 mm. The rest of the instruments are ordinary.

To the previous coating

Marmoleum can be laid directly on the existing floor covering using any installation adhesive. But, if the old floor is playing or it has been trampled to the point of depressions, then the previous covering must be removed and the marmoleum should be laid on bare concrete. There is no need to worry about heat/sound insulation - marmoleum itself is an excellent insulator.

Marmoleum tiles are laid end-to-end on the previous coating using glue. It is not advisable to use panels - on an old rough floor they can get stuck during adjustment.

Preparing the base

The concrete base or cement-sand screed for marmolium, if there are noticeable protrusions on it, needs to be leveled. It is imperative to remove sharp protrusions more than 1.5-2 mm in height. This can be done with a drill or grinder using a bowl-shaped circle on the stone. If the cup accidentally crashes into concrete, it’s okay; the depression can be sealed with cement mortar or starting putty. After leveling, the dust needs to be swept away, the remains collected with a vacuum cleaner, then sprinkled with water and swept again.

An option “for the lazy”, but more expensive: cover the base with a plastic pillow under the laminate. In any case, no pre-treatment of the base with bitumen primer, etc. not required.

Marmoleum for offices, on which company symbols are applied, is gaining particular popularity.

Cutting material

• We measure how many solid tiles or panels will fit across the width of the room; then - how long the rows will be. We take into account a gap of 15-30 mm around the perimeter; it will be covered with a plinth. The gap is needed so that due to temperature and plastic deformations of the coating it does not swell over time.
• We cut the length of the remainder of the whole with a jigsaw or a hand-held circular saw, a number of tiles/panels equal to the number of transverse rows.

Example: room in plan 4x6 m; cover with panels. The remainder of the whole is 400 - (90x4 = 360) = 40 cm. The length is 600/30 = 20 rows. Cut 20 pieces 36 cm long (36x30 cm).

When laying with a comb, with offset transverse seams, the cutting ends there. If you want to lay out the rest of the whole evenly around the perimeter, each piece needs to be cut in half lengthwise. In the example, you will get 40 pieces of 18x30 cm.

Laying process

How to lay marmoleum on concrete? Very simple:

• We lay a 15-30 mm strip wrapped in thin plastic film close to the far short wall. The film will not allow the rail to stick from accidental glue drips. We lay the same rail along the long left wall; if you are left-handed, then along the right.
• We start laying from the far left corner (from the right - for left-handers). In place of the future tile, apply assembly adhesive, construction silicone or linoleum mastic using a snake. We lay the tiles and push them tightly into the corner. If necessary, we use a rule and a mallet.
• We lay out transverse rows, row by row, until the entire area is filled. We wait for the glue to set as indicated in the instructions for it. That's all.

Explanation: if you lay it with a comb, then start the rows alternately with a solid panel, then with a cut one. When laying out the remainder of the whole along the perimeter, each row begins and ends with a trim.

In one of the previous materials, we already looked at the features of such a finishing material as marmoleum and clarified all its advantages and disadvantages. Today we would like to introduce the reader to the procedure for laying the presented floor covering and reveal the nuances of the work.

Preparation for work

As mentioned earlier, marmoleum in its visual characteristics is identical to ordinary linoleum, but unlike it, it is produced not only in the form of rolls, but also made in the form of tiles (like PVC) or panels with an interlocking connection (analogous to laminate). In view of this, laying marmoleum with your own hands is somewhat different depending on the material used.

Foundation preparation process

Depends on the base material. So, if you plan to lay marmoleum on wooden surfaces, you should first make sure of the mechanical strength of the base (damaged floorboards, cracks, and differences are not allowed). And after that, make the final leveling of the floor by covering it with OSB panels or sheets of plywood.

When you plan to lay marmoleum on a concrete floor, you should make sure there are no potholes, cracks, chips and, if necessary, level the base using cement-sand mortar or a self-leveling mixture.

In addition to the procedure for preparing the base, at the initial stage it is advisable to mark and cut the material. To do this, panels or tiles must be laid out in the place of intended installation and control points must be marked.

When performing these operations, it is necessary to take into account certain features:

Marmoleum belongs to the group of natural finishing materials, which is why it has the ability to change linear dimensions with changes in temperature. That is, when laying it, compensation gaps should be provided between the material and the wall (10 - 15 mm), which will subsequently be covered with a finishing plinth.

Mechanical processing of marmoleum (cutting) is associated with certain difficulties, which is why during the work it is desirable to minimize the number of cuts as much as possible and place them in visually hidden places.

Marmoleum laying technology

Depending on the type of material used (rolls, tiles or panels), the method of laying the material also varies.

Rolled marmoleum is laid by analogy with linoleum, however, unlike its synthetic counterpart, marmoleum is not allowed to be rolled more than once, and this can only be done with the front side up. This circumstance is associated with the fragility of the finish, in particular its end zones. That is, the material is simply rolled out indoors and trimmed around the perimeter, after which the mature marmoleum is pressed to the floor using baseboards and decorative thresholds.

Marmoleum in the form of tiles (50x50cm, 30x30cm) can be laid using two methods: with or without pattern selection. Moreover, in the first case, the installation of finishing material should begin from the middle of the room, gradually moving to its edges. Whereas in the second option (for rooms of a standard shape), it is best to start laying from the wall, with the smallest dimensions.

The work algorithm itself involves performing the following actions:

• In the place where the first row is laid (in the area of ​​the wall), a basic rail - beacon (10 - 15 mm thick) is installed;
• A specialized adhesive composition is applied (in the form of a snake) to the reverse side of the finishing material;
• The tile is compared with the beacon strip and at the same time pressed against the base;
• All tiles of the first row are laid in an identical manner, after which the whole process is repeated again (until the work is completely completed);
• After the adhesive has dried, the joint voids can be filled with a special grout of the appropriate color shade.

Panel marmoleum is laid in a similar way to standard laminate. However, unlike the specified material, joining marmoleum panels is more complex, which is associated with its flexibility and fragility. Therefore, adjacent elements should be connected at a strictly defined angle, which ensures the highest quality engagement of the floorboards.

To ensure a given angle of inclination, it is best to use wooden templates with an oblique cut (the angle of inclination of which will allow the marmoleum panels to be positioned at the most optimal angle during the installation process).

Such equipment is placed under the free edge of the trim and fixed in the groove of the previous row. Well, in order for the adjacent panel to close, the block is simply removed and the marmoleum takes the desired position.

To ensure that the installation of natural floor finishes does not cause any particular difficulties, it is advisable to adhere to some recommendations during the work process:

• Tapping the marmoleum (for high-quality joining) must be done through special spacers and using rubber hammers.
• To cut marmoleum, it is best to use a hacksaw or a jigsaw with an appropriate file (fine tooth, reverse direction).
• You should purchase marmoleum only in specialized shopping centers that guarantee the originality of the product.
• In order to ensure a good fit of the material from the base, it is necessary to remove all dust and construction debris in advance using a vacuum cleaner.

Marmoleum is a rolled floor covering made from environmentally friendly raw materials. The prototype of the material is oiled canvas, which appeared in the 16th century. Industrial production of marmoleum began in 1864 in England.

What is it - structure and modern production

Marmoleum is highly wear-resistant, durable and has a service life of more than 25 years

The main value of marmoleum as a material is its environmental friendliness and safety, since the coating contains only natural components, without synthetic impurities. The material recipe consists of conifer resin, flax oil, wood raw materials, crushed cork, chalk and lime.

For coloring, only natural pigments are used that do not emit harmful substances. The structure of marmoleum is a homogeneous coating. That is, the material has one complete layer with a pattern applied across the entire thickness of the product.

From a technological point of view, marmoleum is a modernized version of natural linoleum. Initially, linseed oil and resin were used to produce linoleum from plant and natural components.

As technology improved, substitutes for these components were found and introduced, obtained from special breeds of tropical crops. This made it possible not only to reduce the cost of mass production of the material, but also to increase its performance qualities.

Additionally, a pressed layer of natural cork was added to the structure, which improves the strength and stability of the coating on the surface. The manufacturing process has also undergone some changes - the dry hot pressing method was used to obtain the finished product.

As a result, the improved natural linoleum received the trade name marmoleum, under which it is successfully sold in construction stores.

Characteristics, classification and release form

Natural cladding in rolls and tiles

Technically, marmoleum flooring has higher characteristics than conventional polyvinyl chloride linoleum. The coating can withstand up to 160 kg per 1 cm2 of surface, without visible signs of deformation.

The specific gravity of 1 m2 of material is 2.5-3.5 kg with a total coating thickness of 2-4 mm. The average service life of the material, subject to installation technology and general operating rules, is at least 30 years.

Taking into account the technical characteristics, marmoleum is classified into the following classes:

1. 21-23 – coating intended for use in normal household conditions. It is distinguished by its small thickness (up to 2 mm) and low cost. It is recommended to install it in city apartments and private houses, as it has increased resistance to variable loads.
2. 31-32 – marmoleum, intended for installation in industrial premises and small industries. It has a thicker top layer (up to 2.5 mm). It is resistant to static load, which makes it possible to use it in rooms with a lot of heavy furniture and machines.
3. 41-43 – coating intended for use in public spaces with high traffic and continuous foot traffic. The total thickness of the coating is from 3-4 mm. The main area of ​​application is airports, train stations, hospitals.

It is important to understand that the class of marmoleum indicates not so much the characteristics of the coating, but rather the scope of application and the presence of certain technical qualities. That is, it makes no sense to buy thicker or more durable material for installation in an apartment.

In domestic conditions, the floor surface is subjected to a completely different load than in industrial or public premises. Marmoleum class 21-23 with a thickness of 2 mm is sufficient to ensure trouble-free operation during the stated service life.

According to the form of release, marmoleum is divided into the following types:

• roll 2 m wide;
• tiles 30×30 and 50×50 cm;
• panel 90×30 cm.

Rolled marmoleum, unlike PVC linoleum, is not recommended to be purchased if you plan to lay the coating yourself. The rolled material is quite heavy, which will cause difficulties in delivery to the work site. Care should be taken during transportation, as if broken, the material is fragile and may crack.

Marmoleum in the form of tiles and panels does not have these disadvantages. The panels have a fairly convenient locking system, which allows you to install them yourself, without much experience working with the material. Photos of the main types of marmoleum can be seen above.

Pros and cons of operation

Marmoleum is one of the few floor coverings that combines high performance characteristics and a lot of positive qualities. In fact, this is the reason for the high popularity of this coating in its price segment.

Naturalness is one of the main advantages of this material.

Among the advantages of marmoleum are the following:

• environmental friendliness - the coating is absolutely safe for human health and pets. The coating can be laid in residential areas where allergy sufferers and small children live;
• Hygiene – Marmoleum floors can be easily cleaned by wet cleaning without the use of large amounts of detergents. After cleaning, it remains clean for a long time due to the bactericidal properties of the coating;
• durability - the material does not fade, does not absorb moisture when wet, does not ripple, does not warp. Has high local resistance to damage and other negative factors;
• insulation – when laying, it is not necessary to use heat-insulating material to insulate the floor, since the material has low thermal conductivity. Does not accumulate static electricity, is not flammable, does not emit harmful substances;
• cost - the total cost of laying the coating, even taking into account the cost of the material, is slightly lower than when laying laminate or parquet boards;
• variety - marmoleum has high decorative qualities. Large manufacturers produce coatings in 100 primary colors, 30-50 texture solutions and 2000 shades.

Among the disadvantages of marmoleum, one should note its fragility, especially in the corners and along the edges of the roll. If the installation technology is incorrect, there is a high risk of damage to the material, as a result of which this area will have to be cut off, since cracks along the break line will be very noticeable on it.

During operation, the material may spread slightly over the floor surface and harden in the most trafficked areas of the floor. This is clearly visible in poorly sealed seams, which become tighter over time.

When working with rolled marmoleum, it is advisable to have installation experience, since the material does not cut well, and getting a perfectly even edge along the cut line is quite problematic. That is why most large retail outlets offer an additional installation service, since failure to comply with the technology will void the warranty on the flooring.

Instructions for laying on the base

The general requirements for laying marmoleum are similar to other types of flooring. The supporting base for installation must be monolithic, strong, and dry. The maximum deviation in accordance with GOST is no more than 2 mm per 2 m of surface.

Scheme of laying tiles from the center of the room

The strength of the supporting base is determined based on the planned loads. In residential premises, warehouses and small industries - this is no more than 300 kg/cm2.

Depending on the material used, the base can be divided into three groups: concrete surface, cement-sand or gypsum thin-layer screed, base made of sheet materials.

Almost any concrete surface requires leveling by installing a cement-sand screed or pouring a leveling mass. In rare cases, when a concrete floor slab meets the requirements stated above, surface repairs are sufficient.

To eliminate small irregularities and potholes, dispersion putty should be used. Leveling by laying sheet materials (chipboard, gypsum fiber board) is more suitable for wooden bases and floors with a structure on joists.

The purchased material must be delivered 24 hours before installation. If marmoleum was transported at temperatures below 10 C, then unpacking must be carried out no less than 24 hours later.

Tiles can be laid from the far corner of the room

Laying modular marmoleum with your own hands is done in the following sequence:

1. The laying pattern on the surface is selected based on the design solution. On the diagram you need to indicate the center line from which the installation will begin. For a symmetrical pattern, you can divide the room in half with the center in the middle.
2. Next, you will need to carefully study the instructions for the purchased adhesive mass. The glue is applied to the back surface of the module using a notched trowel. During the application process, it is important to monitor the drying time of the adhesive mass. If the glue has dried out and lost its adhesive properties, then it must be completely removed from the surface of the element.
3. When laying, each marmoleum tile is rolled with a smooth roller weighing 50-75 kg. This tool can be rented in stores specializing in the sale of linoleum.
4. Laying the modules starts from the central center line, as shown in the figure above. The tiled module is laid without gaps or separation from previous elements.
5. The laying process continues until the last element in each row remains that requires trimming. To trim the tile, you will need to apply markings to its front side. Next, cut the tile along the cutting line using a knife with a straight blade. The final cut is made using a knife with a hook blade.

Before commissioning, the floor surface should be thoroughly cleaned of any remaining adhesive that may have been squeezed out of the seams between the modules. To do this, you can carry out wet cleaning with a small amount of detergent approved by the manufacturer.

For daily care, dry cleaning with a special mop with a microfiber attachment is sufficient. Constant use of detergents is not required.

Modular marmoleum with the “Click” locking system is installed in a similar way, the only difference being that the installation of panels can begin from the far corner of the room. To trim an element near the wall, you can use a jigsaw or a wood saw.

When laying the first row, a technological gap of 15-30 mm should be maintained between the tiles and the wall. The gap is needed so that the cladding does not warp during operation.

To lay the second and subsequent rows, it is most convenient to assemble the row as a single piece, and then carefully lower it onto the floor surface until the locking connection is completely clicked into place. The video above shows detailed instructions for laying modular marmoleum.

Cost, manufacturers and installation costs

Products of the Swiss company Forbo

The world leader with a 65% share in the production of marmoleum is the Swiss company Forbo. It is this company that owns the “Marmoleum” trademark, which is used as the name of their main line of natural linoleum.

Forbo marmoleum is distinguished by high resistance to mechanical loads, low abrasion, low residual deformation, good elasticity, and the presence of bactericidal and anti-slip properties.

In many ways, it was the Forbo concern that natural linoleum became widespread throughout the world, including in Russia, where their official representative office is present.

The company's line includes both cladding in rolls and coating in the form of natural tiles with a special locking system. The entire range of products can be found on the company’s official website. The cost of various types of marmoleum can be seen in the table above.

Modern science is constantly inventing new artificial materials that are designed to reduce the cost of production and improve the characteristics of products. But despite this, more and more consumers prefer to use natural and environmentally friendly materials, which include marmoleum. Laying marmoleum is not a complicated and even interesting process, if you follow some of the technology features and take into account the quality of the material.

Features and types of marmoleum

Before laying natural linoleum, you need to take into account the features of this material, such as:

• Marmoleum in the form of a roll is rolled only in production. If the material has been straightened, then it can no longer be twisted;
• The coating is quite fragile, especially at the edges. This must be taken into account when laying and transporting;
• The coating has a high specific gravity and is not recommended for wall decoration;
• When cutting material, you must use only a sharp knife or metal file. Cut edges usually crumble and are best hidden under baseboards.

For your information. It is better to buy natural linoleum in specialized stores or manufacturers' outlets where the storage conditions for the coating are met. Also, purchase glue for natural linoleum according to the manufacturer’s recommendations, which are indicated in the characteristics of the material. When purchasing, pay attention to the cost of the material. The price of high-quality natural marmolium ranges from 19 to 25 dollars per square meter.

Today the following types of marmoleum are available for sale:

• Plain or colored tiles measuring 50x50 or 30x30 cm;
• Panels of standard sizes 90x30 cm;
• Rolled marmoleum, the most common roll width is 2 meters, since it is optimal for high-quality installation in domestic premises.

To install the coating, it is better to invite competent specialists who have experience working with the material. In order to control the process, you can watch the video of laying natural linoleum at the end of the article.

Installation technology for marmoleum of various shapes

When laying tile or panel material, you can use the same tools that are used when installing laminate flooring. It is important to remember here that the material and especially its edges are fragile, so use a rubber or wooden hammer and work as carefully as possible.

Preparing the base for marmoleum

If you have an old linoleum coating in good condition, you can not remove it and lay marmoleum on top of the old one, using regular construction adhesive or silicone. When installed on a concrete base, special adhesive for marmoleum is used. It is possible to lay tile or panel marmoleum without glue, since the modules have special locking connections. But if the installation area exceeds 20 square meters, then silicone can be used for additional installation. When installing marmoleum, no backing is used and the coating is laid directly on the concrete base. If marmoleum is laid on a heated floor, then the substrate can be used to prevent contact of the coating with the heating elements.

Important. The concrete base needs to be leveled, all bulges or depressions must be removed, and cracks must be sealed with putty. Thoroughly clean the floor surface from dust and dirt, then coat it with a deep penetration primer. During installation, the room temperature should be no less than +18 degrees and the relative humidity no more than 60%.

The technology for laying natural linoleum in rolls involves cutting it into separate slabs; for this, it is necessary to determine in advance the size of the slabs and their location in the room. When laying, an expansion gap of 15 to 30 mm must be left between the wall and the coating, since natural components expand when exposed to moisture and temperature. The gap is closed using a plinth.

Laying tile material

Laying marmoleum in tiles is reminiscent of assembling a mosaic, since each tile has a locking connection. Before installing the tiles, a special polypropylene backing is placed on the base, which is sealed with double-sided tape. For tiles, no adhesive is used and the coating is floating. Each tile has a tongue-and-groove system. The first tile is laid at a distance of 1cm from the wall, with the ridge directed towards the wall and the groove outward. Each subsequent tile is inserted with a comb into the groove of the previous one at a slight angle, then the module is lowered onto the surface. Laying natural linoleum in the form of tiles is no different from installing laminate flooring.

For your information. In order to maintain the expansion gap, wooden stakes are inserted between the wall and the first tile, since there is a high probability of displacement during the installation process. The last row of tiles is laid with glue or double-sided tape while maintaining the same expansion gap. Upon completion of the installation of marmoleum, a plinth is installed, which is used to lightly press the material and close the gap.

Installing marmoleum in the form of panels is no different from laying a tile covering. Experts call this installation “quick flooring,” because due to the larger area of ​​the panels, installation is faster.

Installation of rolled marmoleum

Roll material is practically not used in small household premises due to the complexity of installation and cutting. This coating is laid directly on the adhesive in spacious commercial premises with a concrete base.

Important. The base for the rolled material must be perfectly flat, free of dust and dirt. Self-leveling flooring, chipboard, fiberboard or plywood can be used as a leveling material. We lay the marmoleum strictly in one direction, to do this we focus on the arrows that should be marked on the back of the roll.

In general, the installation technology is no different from ordinary linoleum flooring. The material must rest for at least two days, after which you can begin gluing while maintaining expansion gaps between the wall and the coating. When connecting seams, you need to remember that marmoleum cannot be soldered, since it is impossible to melt the edges of the joint with temperature. A special cord made of low-melting polymer is used for docking. In the absence of tools, experience and special knowledge, it is better to invite specialists for installation.

In this article, we briefly examined methods for laying marmoleum in various forms. The main thing when installing a roll covering is not to use force, but simply guide the material and wait for it to gradually take the desired shape. In conclusion, we suggest watching a video of installing marmoleum.