Raspberries: planting and growing. Planting raspberries in the fall - why is it better than in the spring and when should it be done?
Raspberries can be planted at any time of the year, except winter. However, experienced gardeners claim that best time The year for planting work is autumn. Planting raspberries in autumn- a very difficult process. In order to collect a large number of ripe sweet berries in the summer, you need to carefully study the timing of autumn planting and the basic rules for working with this shrub.
Why is it better to plant raspberries in the fall?
In most regions of Russia early autumn The weather is warm but rainy. It is this climate that contributes to the rapid rooting of raspberries. On the contrary, this shrub does not like heat and drought. At autumn planting raspberries have time to develop their root system and accumulate nutrients for shoot growth in spring. In this case, the raspberries begin to bear fruit the next year. Only for some northern regions Spring planting is preferable. This is due to the fact that in such areas frosty winters with little snow are most often observed. The exact timing of planting raspberries is determined using the following parameters:
- Climate in the region.
- Nearest weather forecast.
- Raspberry variety.
- The growing season of the bush.
In the southern regions, it is recommended to plant shrubs in the first ten days of October. IN middle lane As a rule, it is customary to carry out work at the end of September. IN northern regions Raspberries should be planted a little earlier, in early September. However, for all regions of Russia there is a general rule: you need to plant raspberries at least 2 weeks before the onset of serious frosts.
In addition, you need to carefully study the planting requirements for a specific raspberry variety. Early varieties should be planted in September, and late varieties in October. For winter-hardy shrubs It is not necessary to strictly adhere to planting dates. Even if the work is carried out 1 - 2 weeks later than expected, they will have time to take root. The situation is completely different with varieties that are less resistant to frost. It is better to postpone their planting to the spring.
Experienced gardeners always take into account the growing season of the bush. Raspberries should be planted only after the growth of its bushes has stopped. At the same time, the foliage from the bush should fall rapidly. These signs indicate that the so-called dormant period has begun, during which planting work needs to be done. However, the correct growing season can only be determined by experienced gardeners who have been caring for raspberry bushes for many years. The rest should be followed general rule that raspberries are planted from the last ten days of September to the first ten days of October. If it was not possible to plant raspberries on time for some reason, they must be preserved until spring.
- Store in a cool, draft-free room.
- Digging into the ground.
- Snowing (burying packaged seedlings under a dense layer of snow).
Seedlings can be purchased at a nursery or you can take a cutting from your own formed raspberry bush. Seedlings must be mature and healthy. When choosing, it is better to be guided by the following rules:
- You need to select only annual shoots that extend from the root.
- Carefully examine the roots of the seedling. If necessary, they need to be cleaned and damaged roots removed.
- The thickness of the seedling root must be at least 1 cm;
Landing place
Raspberries love sunlight and moisture. For this reason, you need to choose well-lit places. Raspberry bushes develop very poorly in the shade. The ripening time of shoots increases, the berries ripen much later. In addition, raspberries growing in the shade are much more vulnerable to insect pests and fungal infections. The place must be protected from drafts. To the soil where the raspberries are planted special requirements does not extend. Ideally, the soil should be fertile and drained. If you plant raspberries in soil with a high sand content, the berries will appear about 2 weeks earlier than usual. Some gardeners recommend forming the soil with different composition. In one place it may be light loamy, in another sandy soil. In this case ripe berries will delight you much longer.
How to plant raspberries?
There are 2 methods of planting raspberries: artisanal and trench. In the first case, seedlings are planted in one hole in a group. In the second case, raspberries are planted in rows, one seedling per hole. Gardeners believe that the second method allows for greater yields and is the most beneficial for the shrub. The place for planting raspberries must be carefully dug up, weeds removed and loosened. Form trenches with holes in the soil, the diameter of which should be 50 cm and the depth about 30 cm. The distance between holes is at least 60 cm, between rows - at least 4 m. This distance can be reduced by several meters if there is little free space on the site territories.
Pour humus into the bottom of each formed hole. After this, place the raspberry roots in this hole. It is important that the roots of the bush are located horizontally. If they point upward or stick out of the ground, the raspberries will die. Cover the roots with soil, but do not compact them tightly. At the end of planting, water the raspberries with plenty of water. Each seedling should take about 1 bucket. Over the next three days, raspberries should be sprayed with a spray bottle of water. Install support pegs at the beginning and end of each row. If desired, they can be placed more often, every 4 m.
In order to create favorable conditions for shrubs to develop, you need to mulch the soil. To do this, a plot of land with raspberries can be covered sawdust, straw or peat. In regions with little snow and frosty winters, you can insulate raspberries using polyethylene film. From it you need to create a frame around the bushes.
Caring for raspberries after planting
After planting, raspberries require intensive watering. The soil needs to be moistened to a depth of 30-40 cm. If it rains in the region, the intensity of watering decreases or stops altogether. The soil does not need additional fertilizer, since humus is added to the ground during planting. However, in order to protect young shoots from insect pests and infections, you need to treat the soil around with a solution copper sulfate. Before the first frost, bending should be done. To do this, the raspberry bushes need to be bent on top of each other and secured with twine. This work is best done in the afternoon. At this time of day the bushes are most flexible. In winter, you need to make sure that the raspberries are covered with a layer of snow, without it the bushes will freeze.
In the spring, the shoots are freed from the rope, straightened and produced visual inspection. Frozen and damaged bushes should be removed. During flowering, raspberries are fertilized with mineral or organic fertilizers. Raspberries not only have a pleasant bright taste, but also contain a huge amount useful substances. In order to collect as much quality harvest as possible, it is necessary to follow all planting rules.
Raspberry seedlings planted in autumn give best growth and are more productive compared to those planted in spring. However, there are many factors to consider when planting. We'll tell you which ones exactly.
Most often, gardeners plant raspberries in the spring, but autumn planting has a significant advantage over spring - all other things being equal, planting seedlings in September-October will provide the berry with better survival rate and higher yield.
Raspberry planting dates in autumn
It is impossible to give a clear answer to the question of when to plant raspberries. The specific timing depends on several factors: climate zone, weather conditions, raspberry varieties.
It is necessary to plant seedlings 15-20 days before the onset of frost. In the middle zone, the planting period for this shrub usually falls at the end of September – mid-October; in warmer regions it can be planted until the end of October.
The main criterion by which the readiness of seedlings is determined is the appearance of replacement buds on the root collar. In early varieties they can appear as early as mid-September, in late varieties - by the end of the month.
If you miss the moment and plant raspberries too late, they will not have time to take root well and in a harsh snowless winter the seedling may die.
Preparing the site for autumn planting of raspberries
This berry bush will feel good in a sunny, well-protected corner of the garden.
Ideally, the place for planting raspberries is prepared in advance, 2 years in advance. If there is such a possibility, before planting the seedlings, green manure is sown in the selected area.
If the decision to plant raspberries was made spontaneously, and you don’t want to wait two years, choose areas for this crop where perennial grasses previously grew.
Raspberries cannot be planted immediately after strawberries and nightshades!
Raspberries prefer loamy and sandy loam soils. If your area is acidified, increased acidity needs to be corrected by liming. To do this, fluff, ground limestone, marl, burnt lime, and dolomite are added to the ground. Lime promotes the accumulation of nitrogen and phosphorus in the soil and improves the structure of the soil.
How to choose raspberry seedlings?
Collateral great harvest There can only be healthy seedlings. A weak, diseased seedling will not grow into a strong plant that will bear fruit. good harvest. Therefore, the choice of planting material must be approached responsibly.
A high-quality raspberry seedling should be a 20-centimeter shoot with a diameter of at least 5 mm with a well-developed root system.
The purchased bushes should be placed in water for two days, and before planting, the dried stems must be cut off. Immediately before burying the seedling, its roots are dipped in a mullein solution (1:10).
Bush method of planting raspberry seedlings
Bush planting of raspberries (in a separate hole) is one of the most common methods. It is perfect if you don’t have room in your garden for a raspberry “plantation” and you plan to plant several bushes in different places.
First of all, it is necessary to make markings using twine, leaving an interval of 0.7-0.9 m between plants, and 1.5-2 m between rows.
After this, you should dig holes measuring 30x30x30 cm. Add 3-5 kg of compost or humus, 30-35 g of superphosphate and 20-25 g of potassium salt into each of them.
Fertilizers in the pit are mixed with the top fertile layer of soil. Then depressions are formed in the ground. The roots of the seedling are lightly shaken and straightened. The seedling is placed in the center of the hole so that the root system occupies the entire space. Raspberries are buried so that the replacement bud is 2-3 cm below ground level.
After planting, the soil around the seedling is lightly trampled down, and 5 liters of water are poured under the bush.
Tape method of planting raspberry seedlings
Gardeners consider strip planting raspberries (in trenches) a convenient and effective way.
To mark the rows, ropes are pulled in the direction from south to north with row spacing of 2.0-2.5 m. Next, a trench is dug 40 cm wide and deep.
On 1 linear meter trenches consume the same amount of fertilizer as in one hole during bush planting (3-5 kg of manure, 30-35 g of superphosphate, 20-25 g of potassium salt). Then the fertilizers are mixed with the top fertile layer of soil.
Prepared raspberry seedlings are placed in a trench at a distance of 30-75 cm from each other.
A tight fit speeds up the filling of the trench. But the most convenient for maintenance are belts with a width of 0.4-0.8 m.
Before planting, the soil must be loosened for a more rational distribution of moisture in it. With the strip method, raspberry seedlings are planted several centimeters deeper than they grew before. Then the soil is trampled down well so that there are no voids left between the roots. The planted plants are watered at the rate of 0.5 liters of water per bush.
To preserve moisture in the soil, prevent the growth of weeds and protect seedlings from freezing, after planting the soil around them is mulched. Humus, hay, sawdust, crushed sunflower stalks and corn are used as mulch. poured protective layer no more than 5 cm thick.
To protect the seedlings from freezing, after the first frost they must be covered with a 15-20 cm layer of peat. In the spring, when the soil thaws a little, the peat must be removed. Further care behind the bushes the usual: watering, fertilizing, pruning and preventive treatments against diseases and pests.
Any self-respecting owner of a personal or summer cottage dreams of pleasing himself and his family with sweet and aromatic raspberries, boasting to his neighbors of a large harvest and large berries.
But how to achieve such a result? Where to start if you only have a great desire, but lack experience and knowledge?
I will not delve into the intricacies and overload the average person’s brain with complex terms and descriptions of labor-intensive agricultural techniques; I will try to be concise and precise, and give advice verified by personal experience.
A small clarification: we will talk about growing raspberries in the south of Russia and Ukraine. The main difference from other regions is the early hot spring.
The first thing you need to learn is that raspberry bushes should be planted in the fall and best in early November. This is primarily due to the change climatic conditions. Practice shows that even the most resistant varieties of berries after spring planting they don’t have time to settle down. As a rule, they do not survive until summer and no watering or fertilizer will help you with this.
After the end of winter, the sum of average daily positive temperatures increases rapidly; by the end of April we reach +25 + 30C. At the same time, the intensity ultraviolet radiation is such that the frequency of watering is in no way capable of preventing the plant from drying out.
Next, you should remember that raspberries grow best in a place where it is always humid and there is no excess sunlight. This leads to the conclusion that raspberries feel good in shaded places (in the shade of a house, between outbuildings, in the backyard in the shade of trees).
Raspberries reproduce well by root shoots; they have dormant buds that germinate well in favorable conditions. If you obtained the stems along with the root part, then after planting the stem must be cut to ground level. It is necessary to close it to a depth of 5-10 cm. There is no point in leaving long branches: it is still impossible to get a harvest from them, as well as growth for the next year.
Planted bushes must be sprinkled with organic matter. During the growth process, water deeply at least once a week. You will get the harvest in the second year.
During the period of growth of fruiting stems, raspberries form a mass of young shoots. At the end of May they must be completely cut off. After a month, repeat the procedure, but some of the most powerful shoots must be left. Their number should correspond to the number of fruiting stems. In the fall, after harvesting, you completely cut off the fruit-bearing stems, and the young shoots will give you a harvest next year.
That's all the simple wisdom. Do everything on time, don’t give up, believe in the power of nature - you will receive excellent result and a lot of fun.
How to plant raspberries correctly?
ANSWERED BY A SPECIALIST OF THE DISTRICT AGRICULTURAL DEPARTMENT:
– Raspberries are planted in holes or grooves 25-30 cm deep without tilting. The rhizomes are covered in such a way that the rhizome buds are at soil level or covered with 3-5 cm of soil. If planted smaller, the plant will suffer from drought and frost.
Don’t get carried away with planting too deeply - the survival rate and development of the seedling will decrease.
On arid soils, like ours in Kuban, raspberries are placed in deep furrows that are not completely covered with soil. In winter, snow accumulates in them, and in spring moisture is retained.
– How to plant raspberries correctly?
A. Zavyalova.
Planting any berry bush in the fall is always a little more risky than planting in the spring. After all, the planted plant has a frosty winter ahead, which it must survive
As you know, autumn is perhaps the most favorable season for planting many trees and shrubs. And raspberries are no exception, because it is on autumn days that experienced gardeners try to pay more attention to them in order to have a good harvest of their favorite berry next year. At the same time, many are interested in when to plant raspberries in the fall, so that they have time to take root and survive the winter well.
When to plant raspberries in the fall
The timing of planting raspberries in the fall varies depending on climatic features region and variety specifics. So, in the spring it is better to plant green seedlings, and in the summer - seedlings grown in containers. Autumn transplant Raspberries are harvested after they have ripened. The main indicator of the readiness of raspberries for planting in a new place are replacement buds, which by the end of the season develop on the root collar of the plant. For more early varieties they are visible already by mid-September, and later - in October. It is necessary to complete the work of planting and replanting plants at least 20 days before the onset of frost, so that the shoots have time to take root.
Selecting a site for raspberries and preparing the soil
Raspberries are a heat-loving shrub, so for planting it is better to select sunny areas protected from the wind. It is not advisable to plant raspberries next to potatoes, tomatoes, strawberries and fruit trees, since they suffer from the same diseases and pests. Areas where vegetables, gooseberries and currants used to grow are more suitable. The plant grows best in well-drained, light loamy soils. fertile soils. And sandy loam and sandy soils will need to be fertilized and watered regularly.
Gardeners know that correct landing Raspberries in the fall require thorough soil preparation. Usually a month and a half before planting, the selected area is cleared of perennial weeds and dug up. When digging and preparing holes or trenches, the area is fertilized. To do this by 1 square meter add 10-30 kg of humus or compost, about 50 g of potassium sulfate and 60-80 g of superphosphates. Peat soils enriched with sand (4 buckets per 1 square meter).
Planting material
To understand how to plant raspberries correctly in the fall, you also need to know what exactly to plant, and more specifically, which one to plant. planting material will be more productive. Usually, when talking about autumn planting of raspberries, experts recommend choosing not large and expensive bushes with a dozen shoots, but medium-sized and even thin seedlings that have no more than three mature stems and a developed fibrous root system. Before planting, they are pruned so that the length of the seedling does not exceed 35 cm.
Methods for planting raspberries
Often, when preparing a site, gardeners immediately decide how to properly plant raspberries in the fall, or rather, which planting method to use - trench or hole.
1. Trench planting method
For seedlings, trenches are prepared with a depth of 40-45 cm and a width of 50-60 cm. The plants are placed in the trench at a distance of about 40 cm, and the gap between the furrows is 1.5 m. Already during the preparation of the furrow, fertilizers are applied to it. If there is a fertile top layer of soil, the trench is filled with it instead of fertilizer, and ash can be added directly during planting. True, it must be used carefully so that the soil does not have a high alkali content. You should not use nitrogen fertilizers when planting, as they may have Negative influence on the development and wintering of the plant.
During planting, the roots are dipped in a solution based on mullein and clay, lowered into the furrow and gently sprinkled with soil, shaking the sprouts periodically so that the soil evenly covers the roots. Next, the plants need to be well watered, and the soil around them is compacted and mulched.
Many people believe that proper planting of raspberries in the fall using the trench method also requires a special arrangement of the furrows themselves, which should be directed from northeast to southwest or from north to south. This will allow greater access to the raspberries for sunlight in the morning and early afternoon.
2. Pit or bush planting method
At the same time, planting remontant raspberries in the fall is considered more effective if done using the pit or bush method. Like trenches, pits are prepared in advance. Usually they are made up to 60 cm in diameter and up to 40 cm deep. Row spacing is usually left at least 1.5 meters, and the distance between the bushes themselves is 0.7-1 m. The bottom of the holes is filled with fertilizer or the top fertile layer of soil, which when planting loosen. Plant carefully, with soil compaction, abundant watering and mulching.
Related works
When can you replant raspberries in the fall?
Often wondering when to plant raspberries in the fall, gardeners at the same time wonder about moving some bushes. Raspberry transplantation is carried out at the same time as planting seedlings. The main thing is to select young powerful bushes with well-developed roots in advance and trim them at a level of a meter from the roots. Simultaneously with transplanting raspberries in the fall, you can prepare and, the method of propagation of which has already been described earlier.
Installation of trellis
Along with recommendations on how to properly plant raspberries in the fall, it is often recommended to garter the raspberries after planting. In particular, with the trench planting method, the shoots are tied up according to the trellis principle. In this case, the bushes are planted at a distance of 70 centimeters, placing two seedlings in the holes, and row spacing is made up to 1.8 m so that the raspberries are clearly visible through the sun.
Columns are hammered along the edges of the rows, between which a cord or galvanized wire with a cross-section of at least 4 mm is stretched at a height of 1 m. If the rows are long, it is recommended to install several additional columns. Raspberry shoots are tightly tied to a stretched wire at a 10-centimeter distance from each other. The next year, two more wires are stretched at a height of 0.3 and 1.5 m. The bottom layer is necessary for tying young shoots bent down for the winter, and the top one is useful for tying up taller shoots. A structure made of columns with wire and raspberry stems tied to it is called a trellis. This technique helps to compactly place the bushes and provide even access to light to them.
With a competent approach to planting raspberries in autumn time Already next year they will harvest a good harvest. All that remains is to protect the young seedlings from cold and excess moisture by covering the root system with fallen leaves and the shoots with polyethylene stretched over a frame.
Apparently, in the long-standing dispute about whether it is necessary to pinch remontant raspberry bushes to increase fruiting or not, summer residents have finally figured it out - this needs to be done. But another question arose: when exactly? Well, let's discuss this aspect as well.
It's all the fault of the plumbing, that's it!
My old favorite is raspberries. I have it as a repairman. I think this species is best suited for those regions where it is hot in the summer, but there are significant differences in day and night temperatures.
Another advantage of such raspberries is that their first harvests come from last year’s shoots. In the spring, young replacement shoots appear, with which, as soon as they grow to my waist, I pinch the tops. And there are so many berries from this that I don’t know where to put them.
True, right now my crops are not very rich. And all because my raspberries grew for many years in the place where the water supply was laid. But then I had to change the pipes, and it’s clear that everything there was dug up and turned upside down, the raspberries went under the knife. Even though it was bitter, there was nothing to do. But I replanted the best bushes. They, of course, were not happy about this change of residence and took a long time to gain strength after the forced move.
Therefore, I decided to buy new seedlings, especially since now the market is simply overwhelmed with all sorts of varieties. And each of them, according to the sellers, is the best in the world. But I decided that they don’t look for good from good, and again I chose the repair one - Heritage. I bought it, brought it home, and planted it.
It has taken root well. In the fall, I removed everything at the root (as the sellers advised me). The next year it grew well and at the end of summer began to bear fruit, after which the yields only increased. One thing bothered me: I didn’t really like the taste of the berries.
And when Heritage got sick with gall midge, I uprooted it all.
Berries in the snow
I went to the market again and bought Taganka(also repairable). I planted young shoots in the spring, and I looked and they all drooped. And let me put pegs under it. I tied it, straightened it, and watched.
And I see that she has come to life, standing all fresh and healthy. In August it began to bear fruit: the taste of the berries turned out to be simply amazing, the fruits hold well in the cluster. In the spring of the following year, shoots appeared. I didn’t thin it out, which I should have done, and it turned out thickened. And the bushes began to grow the way they wanted. Okay, I think, let them frolic, I’ll pinch them anyway at the beginning of June.
And what do you think?
I didn’t do this on time either. I only got around to my Taganka in July. I pinched it, looked at the bushes a few days later, and they were all shabby and unsightly. I ask myself: “Well, what did you achieve by being late with the pinch?” I called a saleswoman I knew from whom I bought seedlings - so, they say, so, what to hope for? And she replies that there is nothing wrong, only now the berries will come later. And, indeed, at the end of August, flowers appeared on the side shoots, and then berries. And I harvested until the end of November, until the snowfall!
I cut off some clusters of berries and placed them like a bouquet on the table - beautiful, as if summer was just around the corner again.
When light frosts began, I covered them overnight with covering material that De Barao removed from late tomatoes. In general, I was once again convinced that remontant raspberries are quite easy to care for, productive and unpretentious. Whether or not to remove shoots in the fall is a matter for the owner. Personally, I cut without hesitation.
And I made one more conclusion: with the help of pinching and covering, you can significantly prolong the harvest. In that same year, no one had late autumn there were no raspberries in the gardens, but there were delicious red berries on my bushes.
I also tried remontant raspberries grow it like an ordinary disposable one: I fenced the bed with slate, made the distance between plants about 1 m, and left only one or two shoots for replacement.
And the result was surprisingly good! The raspberry branches were thick, and the berries were very large. Large yellow disposable raspberries and Cumberland. The latter is completely unpretentious and does not suffer from anything.
Sometimes I go to the market to offer buyers something from my bountiful harvests. But to lay out the goods, you need a table.
At first I took it for this carton boxes from one of the sellers. But then I decided to become more independent and made a folding “display case” from ordinary packaging that easily fits into a bag. I came to the market, laid it out, and here you have a table and a house (see picture). I jokingly call it “my know-how.”
So, in order. You need to take a box, remove the two halves at the top, cut them at the corners and pierce holes there at a distance of 1-1.5 cm, then insert ties into them.