The best insulation for siding for a brick house. Rules for insulating a house under siding. What material is best for insulating walls under siding?

Insulation for facade under siding- which one to choose, you need to find out their technical characteristics, installation methods, as well as the material for making the walls. Siding is a common finishing material that has a lot of positive properties, but it does not provide sufficient thermal insulation qualities. Before installing it, the base must be properly prepared.

Figure 1. House covered with siding

There are a lot of insulation materials used to insulate a residential building: rolls, slabs. They have different costs and technical properties. You can choose the following façade insulation for siding:

1. Mineral wool. Silicate or basalt rock is used for its production. Small fibers combined into slabs under the influence of a press. They have different dimensions and density. It is better to use stone or glass wool for siding.
2. Expanded polystyrene boards. It is a thin sheet, the consistency of which forms a large number of closed cells filled with air. The product does not absorb moisture, but has varying degrees of flammability (depending on density).
3. Blown materials. They are applied to the facade using special installations operating under high pressure. The coating is seamless, so it retains heat well.

To choose the right facade insulation, it is necessary to take into account the nature of the climate, the presence and strength of wind. An equally important parameter is the constancy of residence in the house and the nature of the climate.

Mandatory characteristics of any heat insulator

It is necessary to choose insulation for the facade, if siding is used for cladding the building, taking into account the technical properties. They should be like this:

• low thermal conductivity, which will prevent heat loss through the walls of the building;
• resistance to temperature changes, since the product will be attached from the outside;
• environmental Safety;
• good vapor permeability;
• chemical inertness;
• mechanical strength and density (here you can choose any parameter, since under the siding the insulation is loaded only by its own weight);
• durability: the product must retain its shape and properties for a long time;
• resistance to biological factors: fungus, mold, damage by rodents;
• ease of installation;
• Fire safety.

Not has all these characteristics. facade insulation. It is also necessary to consider the installation method. The level of water absorption is not critical, since the siding protects the facade from direct exposure to precipitation.

Materials for thermal insulation of wooden structures

If the material for insulating a wooden facade is chosen incorrectly, the base will begin to rot and may become moldy. It is better to give preference to mineral or cellulose products. The following materials are attached under the siding to the wooden facade:

Installation facade insulation for siding in the form of slabs does not require special skills. But we need to prepare for work.

Material for thermal insulation of brick walls

Brick facades also require insulation before facing with siding. To do this, you can choose the following materials:

1. Mineral wool. Retains heat well, but can absorb moisture.
2. Fiberglass. Possesses chemical and biological inertness. Such insulation is carefully attached to the facade under the siding, since it contains microparticles of glass.
3. Styrofoam. It has an advantage over fibrous materials: it does not absorb moisture. It is cheap, characterized by low thermal conductivity and low weight. The disadvantage of foam plastic is the lack of vapor permeability, so condensation forms on the walls. It is easy to install, but the sheets have increased flammability and are also capable of releasing toxic substances during ignition.
4. Extruded polystyrene foam. It is better than foam plastic, as it has increased density and strength, zero hygroscopicity, excellent noise and heat insulation properties. This type of façade insulation is characterized by a long service life. But this material does not allow the walls to breathe; rodents can damage it.

You can choose polyurethane foam insulation for a brick facade. It is a foam-like mass filled with gas. It must be applied in liquid form.

What do you need to know for insulation under metal siding?

Metal siding is profiled panels of small thickness that imitate wood finishing. For their production, cold-rolled galvanized steel is used. To prevent corrosion processes, its surface is covered with a polymer layer. Since metal has a high level of thermal conductivity, the facade requires insulation.

For work it is better to use polyurethane foam. Initially it has a liquid state, but after spraying it hardens. Special equipment is used to apply insulation, which complicates its independent application. Compared to other heat insulators, polyurethane foam is more expensive.

Thermal conductivity coefficients of walls and insulation

It is not difficult to fix the insulation on the facade yourself if you do not need to install it in 2 layers. To do this, you need to know the thermal conductivity coefficient of the base. The parameters are:

As for facade insulation, the parameters are as follows:

To achieve maximum effect, several layers of mineral insulation of different densities can be fixed under the siding. This nuance will allow you to move the dew point further from the wall. In this case, practically no condensation is formed.

Technology of covering a house with siding with insulation: main stages

Before insulating the facade, you need to carry out technical calculations to find out what thickness and quantity will be required. Most often, slabs with a thickness of 5-10 cm are attached under the siding. Sometimes 2 layers of insulation are required. The arrangement process contains the following stages:

1. Facade preparation. It is necessary to dismantle all decorative elements, lighting fixtures, and drainage system. The wooden base is cleaned of rotten parts and treated with a fire retardant and antiseptic. Dirt and dust are removed from the brick wall, after which a deep penetration primer is applied to it.
2. Marking the base. It takes into account that the sheathing is installed at the top and bottom of the wall, at the corners, around window and door openings.
3. Installation of sheathing. It can be vertical or horizontal. The spacing of the bars is 50cm. Their thickness should correspond to the insulation layer.
4. Fastening the material. There must be a ventilation gap of at least 2 cm between the siding and the thermal insulation. A second one is attached on top of the first sheathing, on which the cladding is fixed. If the thermal insulation layer is more than 10 cm, it is better to make a cross base.
5. Fixing the insulation. The slabs are laid from bottom to top, close to each other. For fastening, dowels with a wide head are used. If polystyrene foam is used, the sheets are fixed to the brick wall with glue. The joints are filled with polyurethane foam. Polyurethane foam is sprayed between the beams.

A membrane is attached on top of the insulation, protecting the layer from water and wind. After the insulation process is completed, the siding is installed.

Methods for laying thermal insulation before facing with siding

There are several ways to install facade insulation under siding:

1. Fixation of rolled material with additional fastening with lathing.
2. Inter-frame installation. Suitable for rigid sheet insulation. They are fastened with screws, mastic or glue.
3. Fixation with cross frame.

The last method is considered the most expensive.

Types of lathing

Facade insulation under the siding is mounted on the sheathing. It is required if the base is not level. The sheathing is made of wooden planks or metal profiles. For the arrangement of the first type, slats measuring 2.5x8 cm are used. Their thickness depends on the dimensions thermal insulation and its masses. All wooden elements are pre-impregnated with protective and antiseptic solutions.

Depending on the selected When installing siding, the sheathing can be horizontal or vertical. The distance between the slats is 35-40 cm.

Facade insulation under siding will save money on heating your home. You can install it yourself, but you must follow the fastening technology. The right choice of material will protect your home from the cold for many years.

Nowadays, decorating residential house facades with siding is becoming more and more attractive among owners of suburban real estate. By performing such cladding, the thermal parameters of building structures are improved, since there is a chance to add additional insulation to the façade. Insulation for the walls of a house outside under siding: requirements for it, what material is recommended to choose, how to install it yourself - we will consider all this in detail in the article.

Criteria for choosing insulation materials

Most hardware stores offer a range of products for finishing a house with siding: simple and base. They also offer to buy insulation materials, but an inexperienced person can get confused in their variety. Roll and mini-slabs, expensive and with low prices, made by our and foreign manufacturers, having different layer thicknesses and densities. In order not to be mistaken, we will describe in more detail the requirements that such material must meet:

• durability;
• low thermal conductivity;
• resistance to moisture and temperature changes;
• environmental Safety;
• fire resistance.

Not all types of insulation have all the qualities, so we will consider in more detail only the most suitable ones. It is also worth considering the option of installing the material if you plan to install it yourself. Roll insulation is more difficult to attach; in this regard, slabs are more convenient.

Thermal conductivity of insulation

Before insulating the outside of the house and covering it with siding, it is worth finding out the characteristics of heat transfer by the material chosen for the job. Its intensity is affected by the thickness of the insulation and its natural ability to keep the cold out. When determining the thermal resistance of the facade, the layers of material are calculated separately.

Moisture absorption

This parameter indicates the hygroscopicity of the material, the ability to absorb or retain moisture. Most synthetic insulation materials are practically unable to do this. Mineral wool perfectly repels moisture.

Vapor permeability

This is an important quality of insulation material. It must allow steam to escape from the building. From this perspective, the ideal option is to use mineral wool under the siding.

Fire safety

Each building material is certainly considered in terms of fire resistance. When purchasing insulation, examine this characteristic - it is certainly indicated on its packaging.

Mechanical strength and density of the material

Insulated siding can have different strengths. The material under the cladding is exposed to temperature changes, moisture, and wind. Choose a material with sufficient surface density. The blocks must retain their shape throughout their entire service life and be in good contact with the wall. If they are deformed, the effectiveness of thermal insulation is significantly reduced.

Resistance to biological influences

This parameter is important because mold can appear in the material due to exposure to the atmosphere. The insulation must not rot or rot, not decompose at all and not become a breeding ground for insects.

Environmentally friendly material

Only environmentally friendly materials are ideal for insulating the facades of private houses. Although their cost is sometimes several times higher than ordinary ones. Insulation materials have been developed that are marked on the packaging “ECO” with acrylic resins that are safe for humans. You cannot purchase products manufactured in unknown conditions without labeling. Don't skimp on your own health.

Characteristics of insulation for facade siding

Construction stores offer a wide range of insulation materials recommended for laying under siding: mineral wool with polystyrene foam, glass wool or EPS, polyurethane foam.

Mineral wool

This is the most common material used as insulation laid under siding. Over many years of operation, it has proven itself to be excellent. The product is easy to install by hand, but it requires scrupulous adherence to the recommendations provided by the mounting technology.

Styrofoam

Many homeowners prefer to insulate their facades with foam plastic. This material has low thermal conductivity, which is why it is recognized as an effective heat insulator. It is easy to install and does not require additional waterproofing. The material is easy to work with - it is light, cuts without problems, and does not emit dust. Extruded foam is an excellent choice for insulation because it comes in varieties that are environmentally friendly and do not burn.

Glass wool

This material is dangerous; when installed, it emits glass dust, which is harmful to the lungs. But such insulation costs much less than other analogues.

Penoplex

The set of new types of insulated siding includes penoplex. This is the name given to extruded polystyrene foam (EPS), which is now in demand when installing facade insulation. Its advantages were the following qualities:

• excellent thermal performance;
• low moisture absorption capacity;
• resistance to mechanical loads.

Disadvantages include flammability and the release of harmful substances when ignited.

Polyurethane foam

Sometimes homeowners prefer to insulate with polyurethane foam. This is a gas-filled mass synthesized by the reaction of the initial components at the time of application of the substance. Polyurethane foam has excellent adhesion; regardless of the type of surface, it is easily fixed. The advantages of such insulation are obvious - a guaranteed coating that has no joints or voids. Although the material is undesirable for insulating wooden facades, since it can quickly destroy the walls due to the complete lack of steam exchange.

How much does it cost to cover a house with siding?

The final cost of insulation when finishing wall surfaces with siding depends only on the price of the materials used.

With insulation

The cheapest insulation is polystyrene foam. The cost of siding is affected by the material it is made of. Professionals charge different prices for their work, but on average it is 1,500 rubles for each square meter of insulated facade. Although the final figure can vary significantly, since it depends on the qualifications of the craftsmen.

Without insulation

Prices for installing siding without insulation are more reasonable. They start at 350 rubles per square meter of covered surface.

Do-it-yourself insulation

Every person can do all the work aimed at cladding a country house with the installation of insulation with his own hands. The event requires:

1. Determine the type of insulation used. Calculate the required quantity as accurately as possible.
2. Purchase the necessary tools and equipment.
3. Carry out preparatory organizational and technical measures. Calculate the optimal thickness of the insulation, then prepare the facade for further work.

Deciding on the type of siding

Siding panels for insulation vary in type of material and size. Choosing them requires taking into account certain factors. Vinyl or metal siding is more often used as the cheapest option that does not require highly qualified workers for installation.

Plastic siding is the cheapest. Therefore, it has become the most common. It is easy to process, the panels have different textures and shades. This cladding guarantees high-quality thermal insulation characteristics. Although in hot regions, after a few years, microcracks appear on the product, spoiling the appearance of the facade.

Metal siding is much more stable. It costs almost the same as vinyl material, but is heavier and more difficult to install.

Preparatory work

Step-by-step instructions for installing panels begin with preparing the surfaces to be coated. Although at first their defects will be hidden behind the material, later they will begin to manifest themselves.

First, you need to dismantle all protruding structures - remove the drainage system, window casings, and everything else that could interfere with work. If the building was recently erected, you should not immediately start decorating the facade, because the structure will shrink, which will ruin all your efforts. The wooden surface must be thoroughly cleaned of dirt and traces of mold. Seal every crack in the wood at the same time.

No matter how well even professional builders work, it will not be possible to build a perfectly level building. To eliminate minor flaws, you have to build a sheathing. If you plan to insulate the facade, you can’t do without it. The cells of this sheathing will become the location of the thermal insulation material.

Installing the sheathing

It is better to mount the sheathing using special brackets. Be sure to take into account the technology of all stages of fastening, scrupulously following the basic recommendations when you decide to mount the frame yourself and attach siding to it. This work is dangerous and quite dusty; certain safety precautions must be observed. Protect your eyes with special glasses to prevent chips from getting into them. Wear protective gloves on your hands. When all the tools have been prepared, it is precisely determined what material will be used for the sheathing, proceed to marking.

You will need to use a plumb line with a building level. Based on the completed markings, it is necessary to attach the frame. When the actions are carried out accurately, the panels will then fit perfectly into place. Be sure to take into account the effects of moisture during the procedure and choose the right moisture-proofing material.

Wooden sheathing for outdoor use

Like any other material, wood has its own advantages, although it is not without its disadvantages. The main advantage of wood is practicality and accessibility. However, the material can rot and is easily attacked by rodents. To prevent such situations, treatment with special means is required to ensure the wood is resistant to rotting and has good fire resistance. Such chemical treatment significantly increases the complexity of installation work.

When installing wooden sheathing, be sure to pay attention to the quality of the material used. There should be a minimum of knots in it, since after the structure dries, they begin to fall out. An important point is good drying of the timber, absence of resinous discharge. The disadvantage of wooden sheathing is its large weight.

As advantages, we mention good heat-insulating properties; there is no need to attach brackets. The wood is fibrous, so the structure has excellent strength.

Metal lathing

The use of metal profiles is a worthy alternative to wood. Galvanized structures are used to fasten the panels. Thanks to the existing protective coating, the service life of such lathing is significantly extended.

The advantages of such guides:

• low weight of the mounted structure;
• durability of operation;
• good fire safety.

Although with all the listed advantages, metal lathing also has some disadvantages:

• due to the rigidity of the structure, it is more difficult to establish the required level of the structure;
• installation is more labor-intensive;
• requires the use of additional equipment and fasteners;
• You have to use different profile options to create a high-quality sheathing.

Laying a thermal insulation layer

If a solid material (penoplex or foam plastic) is chosen for insulation, carefully insert it into the sheathing cells, cutting the edges with a sharp knife if they do not fit well. The thickness of the slab should be a couple of centimeters less than the timber. Coat it with special glue first to ensure a tight fit inside your niche. Then the chance of falling out or destruction is minimized. To finally secure the insulation, you need to drill several deep holes into the wall in the slab, and then insert a plastic mushroom into the resulting openings and screw a self-tapping screw into it.

When a rolled material is selected for insulation, it is rolled out carefully between the guides vertically and fixed with stainless nails through thin slats to press the roll against the wall. If the roll is not long enough, you will have to slightly overlap the insulation. A very important point is that the width of the heat insulator must be at least a couple of centimeters wider than the distance between the guides, so that little effort is required when laying it.

Windproof layer

When the installation of thermal insulation is completed, it is advisable to additionally cover the structure with a layer that protects from wind and steam. If cotton wool insulation is used, this procedure is simply necessary. For what purpose is this being done? This protection helps prevent moisture and steam from penetrating between the siding and the wall. When mineral wool becomes damp, it practically ceases to perform the function of thermal insulation. At the same time, the film will protect the structure from blowing out when a strong wind blows. But there are many skeptics who are confident that such a protective layer is not at all necessary, since any material that protects against moisture burns well. Although you shouldn’t pay too much attention to this parameter, because wind protection guarantees more practical benefits.

For such effective protection, ordinary polyethylene film, modern membrane fabrics Technohaut or Izospan, and simple roofing felt are used. The cheapest option is budget polyethylene film; membrane materials will cost many times more. It is necessary to attach the windproof layer along the wall, directing the sheets vertically and performing a ten-centimeter overlap. Sometimes it is recommended to glue the joints, but it is more practical to use ordinary self-adhesive tape for sealing. When the protective film is laid over the insulation in accordance with all recommendations, then the structure will not be afraid of either the southern heat or northern frosts.

We install siding panels

It is more convenient to consider the principle of installing panels on the facade of a panel house using the example of vinyl siding fasteners. Although the design of metal panels is not fundamentally different. First, make sure that all preparatory activities have been completed and that there are no deficiencies. This is extremely important because it is difficult to find an ideal employee who does not make mistakes. Man is a creature who will certainly not complete something or make a mistake.

Since any structure in practice never has an ideal geometric shape, resembling a square or rectangle, you will certainly have to use a variety of additional elements required to give the façade work a complete look. The main elements are:

• Drains. They prevent the possibility of atmospheric water penetrating into the structure.
• Start and finish bars. Their functionality is clear without further explanation.
• Internal and external corners. Such elements are necessary to connect the panels at the corners.
• To join the side parts and secure them securely, J-profiles are needed.
• Direct connections are made using a connecting strip.

Before starting installation, you must select a starting point. It is from here that you begin installing the first layer of panels, organizing the fastening of additional elements (starting strips, corners and window strips).

• Maintain approximately the same distance between fastener elements (preferably 30 cm);
• fastening hardware is required only at right angles to the sheathing;
• Any fastening material must not be pressed tightly against the siding, as it can deform the panels.

Traditionally, sheets are mounted by placing them horizontally. To do this, you must first fix the starting strip. It covers the upper edge of the base or foundation. Install this element carefully, because the beauty of the appearance of the structure as a whole depends on such work. It is necessary to level the strip scrupulously, otherwise you will have to start all the work again a little later. There are no special aesthetic requirements for the strip itself; it can even be assembled from different pieces. All the same, it will be completely hidden from view by the vinyl panel.

To strengthen the strip as evenly as possible, determine where the siding is attached to it, and then screw in the screws along the edges. After pulling the string over them, use a level to check that they are perfectly horizontal. Draw a line along the rope with chalk so that, using it as a guide, you can finally secure the strip:

• when you have to splice pieces of such a strip, be sure to leave a small gap between them;
• never attach this element to the corner of the structure, since a special profile is used for this;
• You cannot pre-attach such a strip under windows or doorways, since it is easy to make a mistake with the dimensions.

Further actions are easier. Secure the corner strips. They are fixed in the same way as installing the starting strip. Further installation of the panels certainly does not present any particular difficulty even for an inexperienced homeowner. You will have to tinker a little only when equipping window or door openings. Filling the sheathing with panels brings true joy - the house is transformed before your eyes!

The use of siding in modern construction is understandable. The material gives the house an attractive appearance and hides any surface defects. The coating installation process is simple and quick.

One of the advantages of the material is the possibility of installing heat-insulating materials. No additional mixtures such as plaster are required. To carry out the work, you need to know the features of each type of insulation and the stages of installation of heat-insulating materials.

Answering the question, how to insulate a house under siding? It is necessary to understand the features of each of them. There are many materials with different characteristics. Each has its own characteristics, which must be taken into account during installation. Depending on the characteristics, a choice is made in favor of one composition or another. Some of them are not suitable for installation under siding.

Coefficient of thermal conductivity

Depending on the composition, materials have different capabilities for transferring thermal energy. The transmission speed directly depends on the properties of the insulation, the thickness of the installation and the temperature difference.

To evaluate this characteristic, the indicator “thermal conductivity coefficient” was introduced, denoted by the Greek letter λ (lamda). Measured in W/m 2 * o K. These quantities are considered the most important when reviewing characteristics.

The numbers are constant; they can be found in the relevant reference books or documents on insulation for siding.

The meaning of thermal conductivity is the amount of heat, measured in watts, that a certain substance can transmit. Its area is taken as standard 1 m2, thickness equal to a meter. The temperature difference should be 1 o C.

It is important to choose a material with the lowest λ number. The lower the indicator, the better the insulating properties of the substance; it conducts heat worse. The lower the coefficient, the side where the air is heated more will transfer heat more slowly to the cold side.

For the convenience of calculations, an indicator has been introduced that is the inverse of the thermal conductivity coefficient, called thermal resistance. Letter designation "R". It is important to choose thermal insulation with the highest rating so that the inner surface cools as slowly as possible.

Water absorption

An indicator no less important than the thermal conductivity coefficient, it reflects the possibility of absorbing and retaining liquid inside the structure in direct contact with it.

There are 2 types of water absorption indicators:

• Massive. It is expressed as a percentage, which shows how much the insulation installed under the siding can absorb liquids in comparison with its own weight when it is in a perfectly dry state.
• Volumetric. The indicator characterizes the volume of liquid that the insulation can absorb compared to its own volume. The higher the indicator, the more water is retained in the pores.

When liquid is absorbed and retained inside the insulation, the density increases due to the high density of water. The thermal conductivity coefficient increases (heat is retained worse). To reduce the water absorption coefficient, manufacturers treat materials with special water-repellent additives. They do not allow liquid to enter the pores.

If you install insulation under the siding, the water absorption indicator can be ignored. There will be no direct passage of liquid, as it is protected by special membranes. In addition, the material is blown with air, moisture is removed outside. To prevent contact with water before purchase, you need to ensure that the packages with insulation are hermetically sealed.

Vapor permeability

The vapor permeability indicator shows the ability of materials to pass evaporated liquid. Its pressure is higher than atmospheric pressure, due to which it must leave the pores as quickly as possible. The indicator is characterized by the amount of water vapor in milligrams that passes through 1 m2 of insulation in 60 minutes. It’s good if the insulation quickly allows it to leave the surface so that the insulation properties return to normal.

The coefficient should be average, comparable to the wall indicator. This is explained by high air humidity inside the house and low outside. Water vapor easily penetrates through brick and concrete masonry. If it encounters a barrier in the form of insulating material, the natural ventilation of the room will be disrupted.

Liquid with low vapor permeability will accumulate and may freeze in winter. After this, the surrounding compounds will begin to deteriorate. If the house is wooden, the walls become covered with fungus and mold.

Fire hazard

Each construction material is characterized by a degree of fire hazard. When constructing new structures, close attention must be paid to this indicator. If you neglect fire regulations, a fire may occur from the weakest fire source. Construction material is divided into non-flammable and combustible. When choosing insulation materials, priority should be given to non-flammable compounds.

Density, strength and biological stability

Almost all insulation materials have a porous structure. Sometimes they are filled with special compounds to improve performance. Due to the large amount of air inside, the density of all of them is low. Mechanical strength shows how effectively the composition resists any mechanical load.

Insulation of the facade of a house under siding is carried out with virtually no load on the material. Own mass will not be very important; it can be ignored. To increase the tightness of the seal, manufacturers increase the indicator inside the insulation. This allows the slabs to be pressed tightly against the walls of the building.

Biological stability must be taken into account when installing on . Fungi and mold can appear if there is prolonged contact with liquid or in other cases when conditions for the appearance of microorganisms are created.

Insulation of siding, if the material is laid under the siding, is provided by almost all manufacturers. The materials usually have the required resistance characteristics against such problems. Sometimes rodents gnaw through low-quality polystyrene foam, but do not eat it, but instead build tunnels inside. With high-quality finishing work, such a nuisance is unlikely.

Environmental friendliness

During the production of any insulation, substances are used that may not be beneficial to humans. What is important is not what the component is made from, but how much harmful substances will be released after its installation. The amount of vapor emitted by insulating materials is so minimal that you should not pay serious attention to the indicator. Although it does exist.

The market offers environmentally friendly insulation products. They consist of natural substances: flax, cellulose, glued with special safe substances. Their price is much higher than traditional ones. It is necessary to make the right choice, taking into account not only the environmental friendliness indicator, but also all other important parameters.

Types of insulation

There are various insulation materials on the market, with significantly different characteristics and costs. Other parameters are no less important, so you should pay attention to them when insulating a house under siding.

Mineral wool insulation

All materials of this type are highly resistant to fungus and mold. Thermal insulation functions are performed in all weather conditions.

Insulation of house walls under siding is carried out with the following materials:

Glass wool

It is made from sand, soda, dolomite, borax. Elastic, durable, used at any temperature. Used for insulation of industrial and residential premises. It is possible to cover curved surfaces.

Pros: fire resistance, chemical inertness. The slabs weigh little, which makes it easy to install them under siding.

Minuses: fragility, causticity. There may be some inconvenience during installation.

Slagovatny

Produced in slabs made from non-ferrous metallurgy waste. The service life does not exceed 10 years, after which the thermal conductivity indicators decrease over time.

Advantages: low cost, high fire safety.

Flaws: high hygroscopicity.

Basaltic

When calculating siding for installation on a house, the following values ​​must be taken into account:

• The height and width of each wall. The space from each corner is measured.
• All openings (doors, windows, additional elements) are measured, their dimensions are subtracted from the total figure.
• The number and height of all corners are considered: internal and external.
• The molding of the eaves panels is taken into account. Values ​​are measured from corner to corner.
• To take into account the area of ​​the spotlights, the length of the cornice and the length along the base are calculated.
• The area of ​​the pediment is calculated by the height of the ridge and the width of its base.

Features of insulation

A vapor barrier is required if siding with insulation is being installed. Additional material attached to the house will interfere with the normal passage of steam through the walls. If liquid accumulates inside the porous structure of the insulation, its performance characteristics will be significantly reduced.

There is no need to install an additional vapor barrier layer for foam plastic (expanded polystyrene). It does not conduct steam and will not interfere with its removal from under the surface.

When insulating with mineral wool and other materials with high vapor permeability, condensation will accumulate inside the slabs, reducing the properties of the insulation.

Waterproofing installed under the outer skin helps solve the following problems:

• Vinyl or metal siding does not accumulate moisture on the surface (inside and outside). If the panels are not installed hermetically, liquid penetrates through the gaps and damages the insulating material. The use of glass wool or mineral wool requires mandatory fastening of the waterproofing.
• The snow accumulating under the ridge begins to melt and flow down the walls. When waterproofing is installed, moisture passes along its surface. Flowing into the drain, the liquid does not harm the walls of the house or waterproofing material.

A waterproofing film made to all standards allows moisture to escape. Nearby materials do not deteriorate from passing liquid, and natural ventilation is provided. It is correct to use waterproofing together with a vapor barrier layer. Thermal insulation will be protected from vapors from the room. A vapor barrier is installed between the wall and the insulating layer.

Wall insulation with mineral wool

In order to retain the heat of the room and prevent the formation of condensation, insulating the house under the siding with mineral wool must be carried out according to certain rules.

There are 2 installation methods:

• Frameless.
• Frame.

Installation using the first method is carried out in compliance with the rules:

• the insulating material is mounted directly on the wall. The top is finished. The connection comes out homogeneous, without seams. The thickness should not exceed 15 cm;
• The mineral wool is fixed to the wall with glue. The main fastening elements are “umbrella” hardware;
• the base is reinforced.

Insulating a house with house siding requires compliance with the rules. The composition is suitable for brick premises, or those made of gas-foam concrete blocks. Frame houses require additional installation of hard flooring made of OSB boards. Activities are carried out in dry weather. When wet, the insulation must be completely dried.

The second method involves installation in cells formed by the frame structure. If the base is made of wood, it must be coated with an antiseptic. The materials are fixed in the same way as in the first case. A film is placed on the insulation to protect it from moisture. You can secure it with double-sided tape or a stapler.

Slats are attached to the main frame to form a sheathing. It is necessary to create an air cushion and install siding.

To increase the functionality of the insulation, it is recommended to carry out additional finishing inside the house. The house will consist of layers: finishing material, drywall, vapor barrier, mineral wool, wall, mineral wool, waterproofing, siding.

Insulation of glass wool walls

After carrying out the preparatory work and insulating the wires, you should wait until the walls are completely dry. It is recommended to install a waterproofing layer under glass wool, on top of which further work is carried out.

The joints are sealed with adhesive tape. Work is carried out in dry weather. Glass wool is soft and difficult to attach directly to the walls of a house without a frame. If its installation is not possible, glass wool is nailed directly to the walls, and a vapor barrier and siding are laid on top.

The frame is made of wood or metal profiles. The bars are selected with a cross section of 40–50 mm. To increase sound insulation characteristics, polyurethane foam is added under each beam. The material is treated with an antiseptic.

For profiled frame:

• The wall is marked to secure the hangers.
• Using a drill, holes are drilled at a distance of 50 cm along the marking lines. The horizontal distance is 60 cm.
• The dowels are driven in and the hangers are attached to them.
• Their parts are unbent to form U-shaped structures.
• Jumpers are placed vertically and horizontally.

Glass wool slabs are attached to the walls with glue or umbrella dowels. Apply glue to the entire slab. If it is spot-on, additional fastening with dowels will be required. The distance between them is 20 cm. Pieces of material are cut 3–4 cm larger than the cavity space: the joints are tightly covered with insulation.

Advice: lay from bottom to top. After fixing all the material, secure the joints with glue.

After hardening, a vapor barrier is laid down, secured with a stapler to a wooden frame or with self-tapping screws to the profiles.

Ecowool insulation

Sold in the form of compressed briquettes that need to be fluffed before use. The composition is dry, free-flowing. After unpacking, you should wait for full expansion before starting work. The insulation can be fixed industrially or manually. The first is used in large rooms; for the home it is advisable to use the second method.

Briquettes are unpacked into a container. Using a mixer, the cotton wool is fluffed. You can do the work with your hands - the composition is not dangerous. Installation of lathing is required, without which the insulation process is impossible. The laying is dense; the material needs to be tamped so that it holds better. All cracks must be closed.

Wet application

To improve adhesion, you can moisten it with water. This is done with a sprayer, but not manually. The pitch of the lathing (wooden blocks or metal profiles) is 1.5 m. Water helps the material stick, and the drying process does not exceed a day.

The insulation should not protrude beyond the boundaries of the sheathing.

Insulation with extruded polystyrene foam

Here it is important to take into account the thickness of the insulation, which is approximately 10 cm for a house. If the sheets are thinner, 2 layers of material are attached. The wall must be carefully prepared: cleaning of debris and leveling are mandatory. The thickness of the sheathing is selected based on the size of the polystyrene sheets. Wooden or metal frame. In the first case, coniferous wood species are selected. The wall is covered with a waterproofing layer.

When installing siding horizontally, the sheathing is installed vertically, and vice versa. The width of the profiles should not exceed the dimensions of the slabs of the facing material. Vertical sheathing is installed in the corners, around doors and windows. The level checks verticality.

The insulation is secured with dowels with a large head or glue. To prevent the material from slipping when installing without a frame, work is carried out from the bottom up. You can install special supporting elements if glue is used. After fixing, it is recommended to cover the polystyrene foam with a diffuse membrane to allow steam to escape and protect it from moisture.

The seams of the internal covering are overlapped to eliminate cold channels. For corners, a special corner profile is used.

• glue should not get into the joints between the insulation sheets;
• it should be installed in dry weather, although manufacturers do not set restrictions on installation;
• You can increase the adhesion of the glue by making cuts on the inner surface of polystyrene sheets;
• Use only special glue intended for outdoor use.

Advice: if fastening occurs in 2 layers, the second is installed using dowels.

Polyurethane foam insulation

Spraying of polyurethane foam insulation is carried out by filling all voids and niches. The walls of the house are kept airtight. It is recommended to use another insulation material together with the substance: mineral wool, polystyrene foam. PPU is poured immediately, without skipping. Pre-installed sheathing is necessary to secure the siding.

Excess foam is cut off after it hardens. You can apply it to any surface, you don’t need to remove or dismantle anything. The layer thickness is about 5 cm, although it is recommended to make at least 3 cm.

Analysis of the features of each insulation material allows you to determine which one is best suited for exterior siding of the house. It is worth first familiarizing yourself with the pros and cons of all options, installation features, for some materials. Carrying out work according to the given schemes will allow for high-quality external insulation of the house under siding,

Siding is a cladding material that allows you to create a completely new look for your home without affecting any structural elements.

With a relatively low cost and the ability to save significantly by installing it yourself, siding is one of the most economical materials, the effect of which is much higher than the costs incurred.

The material provides cladding of the “ventilated facade” type, in which the walls and wall pie materials have the ability to “breathe”, i.e. ensures unhindered removal of water vapor from wall materials.

The sheathing panels themselves, while not being vapor-permeable, thanks to the installation technology, do not interfere with the escape of steam and are reliable protection for wall elements. This property is most valuable when using external insulation, which requires the organization of high-quality ventilation of the material.

Insulation is a procedure aimed at preserving the thermal energy of a house. From the standpoint of living comfort, this is where the insulation functions end, but from a physical point of view the situation is much more complicated.

The composition of the internal atmosphere of a residential building contains an excess of water vapor. It is generated from the use of heaters during cooking, but the main source of steam is the breath of people.

The vapor in the air has a certain elasticity, creating the so-called. partial pressure due to which steam is gradually squeezed out through wall materials. The lack of exhaust capability will cause a strong increase in internal humidity, causing condensation to form on cold surfaces.

If the walls are insufficiently thick (or the material is incorrectly selected), condensation will begin to collect on the surface of the walls or inside their thickness. When the temperature outside drops, the accumulated moisture freezes, increases in size and tears the walls from the inside, which threatens destruction.

Installing external insulation reduces heat loss, which is why the walls remain quite warm. The steam passing through them does not condense and does not cause wetting. The risk of destruction of materials has been eliminated, and the structure of the house is not in danger.

The main types of insulation for siding and their brief description

The specifics of installing siding require the use of insulation that can retain its shape. Therefore, bulk materials (expanded clay, bulk ecowool, etc.) are no longer needed - using them on vertical surfaces is difficult and requires the installation of additional structures.

The best option is insulation for the outside walls of a house under slab or roll siding, which allows you to install it on the walls without any problems.

The most popular insulation materials are:

• . The material is cheap, holds its shape well, and is easy to process. It is light in weight and does not create a load on the walls. The disadvantage of polystyrene foam is its almost complete impermeability to water vapor, which prevents steam from escaping from the walls and causes undesirable processes - wetting, corrosion of metal elements, etc.
• . This is a type of polystyrene foam, but with more intense properties - rigidity, density, strength and complete impermeability to moisture or steam - everything is increased significantly compared to polystyrene foam. Being a first-class waterproofer, EPS is practically unsuitable for external insulation, since it traps moisture inside the walls with inevitable negative consequences. In addition, it is much more expensive than polystyrene foam and is not profitable from an economic point of view.
• . There are several varieties of this material, and all of them are excellent external insulation materials. They have good heat-saving properties, high vapor permeability, light weight and sufficient density to retain their shape without a rigid frame. The disadvantage of this material is its ability to swell, leading to an almost complete loss of working qualities. The solution to the problem is the use of high-quality waterproofing against the ingress of water from outside.

Which insulation is most optimal?

There is a rule that determines the ratio of the properties of wall materials, according to which vapor permeability should increase from the inside to the outside. That is, the vapor permeability of the first inner layer (for example, plaster) should be the highest, and that of the last layer (in our case, insulation) should be the lowest, which ensures that there are no obstacles to the escape of steam.

If this rule is not followed, moisture gradually accumulates at the boundary of the two layers, causing irreversible consequences. Their danger is that the process is very slow and imperceptible - it is visually noticeable only when the walls are already very wet.

From this point of view, mineral wool becomes the most successful material for external insulation. Its vapor permeability allows installation on any wall material - there will be no problems with the output.

The requirement of mineral wool for waterproofing does not cause any particular problems - a layer of waterproofing membrane is used that allows moisture to pass in one direction. The only important point is the correct installation of the film with the right side inward..

Many users claim that their house is insulated from the outside with polystyrene foam and there have been no negative consequences. In this case, vapors are removed from the inside in other ways - mainly with good ventilation of the house. Any change in the situation will certainly cause condensation, wet walls, etc. In this case, there is simply a lucky coincidence of circumstances, nothing more.

Types of lathing and which is most optimal for siding and mineral wool

- This is a system of strips that serves as support for siding panels. For horizontal panels, the strips should be positioned vertically and vice versa. The distance between them - the sheathing pitch - is made such as to ensure strong fastening of the panels and stability of the material in strong winds.

Usually it is about 60 cm, but in each specific case the climatic and weather conditions of the region should be taken into account.

Initially, wooden bars (for wooden houses) were used as a material for sheathing. If there is insulation, the design of the wooden sheathing becomes more complicated, since first you have to install the first layer of bars, between which the insulation slabs are laid, and on top of it - the second, load-bearing layer of counter-lattice in the transverse direction.

This design is quite difficult to install - it is necessary to ensure that the planks are level. In addition, wood is an unstable material, prone to warping, changing shape and size.

The advent of metal guides for gypsum boards made it possible to almost completely solve the problem. They have a straight calibrated surface, identical and unchanged dimensions, and a galvanized layer reliably protects against corrosion. In addition, during installation, metal guides are much easier to adjust - the straight hangers on which the slats are attached make it easy to change the installation depth.

The use of metal guides allows you to get by with one layer of sheathing. Direct hangers are installed in advance along the joint lines of the insulation slabs, after installation of which their petals are outside and the sheathing strips are attached to them. This results in a more dense installation of insulation and standard installation of the sheathing in one layer, which saves time and money.

CAREFULLY!

This option is not suitable for a thick layer of insulation - the length of the suspension petals will not be enough. In this case, you will need to install two layers of sheathing.

Installation of the selected type of lathing

The lathing is installed on the prepared wall surface - cleaned of dirt and dust; cracks and potholes in the surface must be puttied.

Let's consider the most difficult option - two layers of sheathing:

• The first layer is located horizontally. The distance between the slats is selected in such a way that it is possible to install insulation boards without adjusting the width.
• The height of the plank above the wall should correspond to the thickness of the insulation, otherwise installation of the counter-lattice will be difficult.
• First, the outermost strips are attached (in our case, the top and bottom). Their position is carefully displayed horizontally, and the height above the wall is checked.
• Then, the remaining planks are installed along the stretched cords with the required spacing.
• After installing the insulation, the installation of the second layer, the counter-lattice, begins. It is mounted transversely - vertically.
• First, corner strips are attached and window and door openings are formed. It should be remembered that corners and openings require a double layer of strips to properly fasten the siding elements.
• After this, all other strips are installed.

With insulation you can do it yourself.

Installation of vapor barrier and why it is needed

Do not allow the insulation to get wet. As a result, all the useful qualities of the material are almost completely lost; instead of retaining heat, its active leakage begins. Therefore, the surface of the mineral wool must be reliably protected from moisture penetration.

However, some steam will inevitably penetrate the material. In order to prevent the accumulation of steam inside the insulation and ensure its removal, a vapor barrier membrane is used - a material that allows steam to escape from the inside, but prevents it from entering from the outside. This cutoff allows you to keep the mineral wool dry and in working condition.

Technology of wall insulation with mineral wool

The installation of mineral wool is carried out on the prepared surface of the walls, between pre-reinforced sheathing strips. Mineral wool slabs are fastened tightly between the planks on a layer of special glue and, at the same time, on special dowels with wide caps - fungi. There should be no gaps or cracks; this must be monitored; the resulting cavities should be immediately filled with polyurethane foam.

Thus, the installation technology is as follows:

• Applying a layer of glue.
• Installing a mineral wool slab with glue.
• A hole is made in the mineral wool and, at the same time, in the wall. A dowel is installed in it and the slab is pressed against the wall with a fungus.

NOTE!

You can’t get by with mushrooms alone! They serve only as additional fasteners until the adhesive layer dries.

• All mineral wool slabs are installed in this way.
• Particular attention is paid to the design of window and door openings. All sections of the slopes must be carefully covered with material, and any gaps that appear must be filled with polyurethane foam.
• After installing the insulation, inspect the entire wall area again and eliminate any deficiencies found.

Waterproofing mineral wool

Mineral wool is a hygroscopic material. Due to swelling, all its working properties are lost, which should not be allowed. Therefore, before installing the counter-lattice, you should install a cutoff - a layer of waterproof membrane. This material has the ability to allow steam to pass in one direction, but does not allow moisture in any form to pass through in the opposite direction.

The waterproofing is installed in horizontal stripes from below. The material is rolled, so it is possible to eliminate joints along the length. Subsequent rows are laid with an overlap (10-12 cm), the joints are taped with special tape. In this way, the entire area of ​​the walls and the slopes of the openings are covered.

There should be no holes or cracks in the film. You need to ensure that the film is installed on the correct side.

Siding installation

It begins immediately after installing the counter-lattice. A straight horizontal line is drawn from below, indicating the lower edge of the siding.

• The starting bar is installed along this line.
• After this, all corners are drawn up - external, internal, window or door openings.
• The design of window or door openings can be done in different ways, based on the depth of the slopes. Ordinary trims, universal strips, or, if the depth exceeds 20 cm, a set of siding panels can be used.
• After all the corner elements are installed and the openings are formed, the installation of siding panels begins. The first row is mounted on the starting bar, snapped into the lock and secured at the top with self-tapping screws.

Important! Do not tighten the screws all the way! The material must have free movement for movement during thermal expansion.

• All subsequent rows of siding are installed in a similar way. The longitudinal joining of the panels is done either using H-panels, which must be installed together with the corner and window elements, or with an overlap of 2.5 cm.
• The canvas is completed using a finishing strip, which is mounted along with the last row of panels. They are simply slipped under the curl of the plank, which locks them in place and prevents water from getting under the trim.

Useful video

In this video you will learn how to insulate walls under siding:

Conclusion

Installing insulation under siding solves a lot of important problems. It eliminates heat loss, protects the wall material from destruction, and reduces the cost of heating the house. These functions give reason to consider insulation as the most important process, and the costs for it are completely justified.

The main task is to eliminate the formation of gaps between the slabs of material and completely eliminate the penetration of water into the mineral wool, and then the service of the wall pie will be long and flawless.

Despite the natural attractiveness and durability of brickwork, building facades sooner or later require restoration and repair. Particularly relevant is the issue of wall finishing to improve the thermal insulation properties of structures, which helps to significantly reduce heating costs in the winter and increase the level of comfort in the summer. The best option is to insulate the outside walls of a brick house with polystyrene foam under the siding. This is a fairly economical and effective solution. It is most applicable specifically for cladding a brick building, but not for a wooden cottage, the thermal insulation of which is carried out with completely different materials.

Siding finishing: the need to insulate the walls outside

Siding finishing and insulation are quite often considered separately - as two processes independent of each other. In fact, installation of decorative coating cannot be carried out without high-quality thermal insulation of the walls outside, since the thermal conductivity of siding is quite high. As a result, warm air from the house will turn into condensation upon contact with a cold surface.

At sub-zero temperatures outside, drops of condensate will freeze and thereby increase microcracks in the walls. The result is premature destruction of them. That is why, when finishing with siding, it is better to insulate the walls from the outside in advance than to repair them later.

Features of insulation of brick houses

To significantly reduce heat loss and ensure comfort inside the building, it is important to choose the right insulation, its thickness, method of fastening and finishing. If we talk about finishing a brick house with siding, the features of the technology have been defined; it is only important to select the material and its parameters as accurately as possible.

Material selection: advantages of polystyrene foam

For effective insulation, the material must meet the basic requirements:

• have the lowest thermal conductivity: for example, this indicator for brick is approximately 0.5 W/m*K, for wood - 0.13 W/m*K, for expanded polystyrene - 0.036-0.041 W/m*K;
• water-repellent properties;
• resistance to the development of bacteria and fungi;
• must retain its properties under significant temperature changes.

Extruded polystyrene foam meets these requirements to the greatest extent. Thanks to the air enclosed in bubbles, this material has very low thermal conductivity. The material does not absorb moisture at all if all the bubbles are intact. According to manufacturers, such insulation is capable of extinguishing if a fire occurs, which is especially important when laying it under plastic siding.

It is important to know

Vinyl siding does not support combustion and when choosing materials it is recommended to use it.

It is recommended to insulate the walls of a brick house with expanded polystyrene, especially since it belongs to the middle price category.
In numerous debates about the choice between polystyrene foam and mineral wool, the former wins, since it has been experimentally proven that:

• Expanded polystyrene retains heat more effectively due to insulated air bubbles, while mineral wool slowly releases heat out.
• Mineral wool, which is used everywhere, is inferior to foam plastic in its thermal parameters.
• Mineral wool is capable of absorbing moisture, which foam is not susceptible to at all.

Despite these disadvantages, mineral wool has its advantages. It is ideal for installing structures using ventilated facade technology.

Disadvantages of polystyrene foam

To avoid unpleasant consequences after finishing the facades, the following nuances should be taken into account:

• Expanded polystyrene is a flammable material, so it is not recommended for use in structures with air access, for example in ventilated facades. In this case, the insulation may catch fire. (By the way, finishing with siding on a subsystem is just such a type of ventilated facade)
• Rodents often breed in such insulation, but, as a rule, high-quality siding finishes prevent this problem from occurring.

Insulation thickness

When determining this parameter, it is important to take into account the properties of the main wall material, since the characteristics of the brick and the wall itself may be different. Hollow blocks and structures of significant thickness have lower thermal conductivity. Accordingly, such walls require a smaller layer of thermal insulation.

Considering the fact that a 120 mm layer of foam plastic is equal in its thermal properties to a 2000 mm brick wall, it is necessary to correctly calculate the insulation parameters in each specific case:

• with a wall thickness of a brick house of 250 mm, the thermal insulation layer must be at least 40 mm;
• to insulate a 500 mm wall, 30 mm thick polystyrene foam is sufficient;

The calculation of the thickness of the material also depends on the climate, since if the insulation layer is insufficient, severe frosts can lead to freezing of the main structures.

External brick wall insulation technology

Having chosen the material that is optimal in terms of cost and parameters, we begin to select the fastening technology:

• With dowels, when the slab is fixed at five points, and the umbrella-hat covers the joints of the slabs. At the same time, the process is quite labor-intensive, but reliable.
• With the help of an adhesive composition, the slabs are easily attached to the walls of a brick house, if a clear horizontal line is maintained and the surface is level.
• Using cement-based plaster mixtures. This fixation method is not recommended for use on brick walls, as the adhesion may not be effective enough. To increase adhesion, additional surface treatment is required, which increases labor costs and, accordingly, the cost and duration of work.

Any of the listed methods is used in conjunction with a frame, which is necessary for further installation of siding.
Which method of fastening will be better in each specific case is up to specialists who will take into account both the parameters of existing external structures and the characteristics of the load with the chosen method of fastening the insulation.

Stages of insulation

Often, when insulating a house on their own, owners skip such an important preparatory stage, at which specialists usually calculate the operating characteristics of the house and climatic conditions, the required thickness of the insulating material and the load on the load-bearing structures. This is necessary to minimize costs and ensure maximum comfort.
Therefore, it is better to pay more attention to the calculations than to waste time and money later.
Insulation of the walls of a brick house from the outside occurs according to the following scheme:

1. First of all, the sheathing is installed. Quite often, wooden slats are used for this, but for brick walls, metal profiles and brackets/hangers are considered optimal, although they are more expensive. Their cost is justified by their long service life without the additional processing that wooden structures require. They are attached exclusively to a dry surface that has been repaired in advance if necessary.
2. Foam boards are placed in the cells of the sheathing and attached directly to the wall using the chosen method. You can also use another technology, in which the entire surface is first covered with polystyrene foam, and the sheathing is mounted on top of the insulation, making holes for attaching profiles directly through the thermal insulation layer, but this method is not the most optimal option, since the amount of insulation waste increases.
3. Occasionally, two layers of insulation are used, which is justified in harsh climatic conditions.
4. A counter-lattice is mounted outside to install siding: for horizontal installation, the slats or profiles are laid vertically, for vertical installation of cladding - horizontally.
5. Next, the siding is installed. They start with corner, window, door and starting elements.

Obviously, the process of insulating a brick house from the outside is quite simple, of course, if you have the skills, tools and understanding of the features of the process during subsequent finishing with siding.

Service life of foam insulation

The question of the service life of any material is always relevant, because it determines the real cost of the work and the feasibility of any investment. According to research, high-quality foam plastic can last 50 years, of course, in ideal conditions - with minimal temperature changes, etc. Extruded polystyrene foam is credited with a service life of up to 80 years, in reality, one can expect adequate preservation of properties for up to 40 years and a little more. This will be facilitated by external protection of facades under siding.