Currant leaves are limp and have yellow stripes. Currant diseases - description with photographs, treatment methods. How to save your harvest from currant borer

Just like any others berry bushes, all subspecies of currants are susceptible to various infections. Currant diseases are quite numerous and for successful treatment it is necessary to have a good knowledge of the signs of each and methods of treatment.

Fungal infections and protection

Currant diseases can be classified according to the method of infection:

• fungal;
• viral.

Fungal infections are the most common in flora. Diseases are favored by increased humidity and heat, which is usually observed at the end of summer. A description of the most common infections, as well as methods of protection, are given below.

Powdery mildew

It is found on currant leaves and the tops of new branches in early summer as a gray-white coating that can be washed off and wiped off. Gradually it turns brown and is no longer washed off. The disease is helped to spread by high humidity and temperatures of +30.

Black currant leaves, twigs and berries become infected. The berries are spoiled by fungus, tasteless and not suitable for food.

As a result, the infected plant stops growing and gradually withers. The fungus waits out the winter in a pile of fallen leaves.

During initial stage You can get rid of the disease by pruning and destroying infected branches, treating currant bushes with alkaline solutions:

• ash;
• soap;
• soap and soda;
• iodine;
• from whole milk.

If the fungus develops massively, the bushes are treated by spraying four times with fungicides such as Fitosporin, Topaz, Strobi, Hom:

• before flowering;
• after flowering;
• followed by berry picking;
• 2 weeks after the third treatment.

Important! Treatment of all fungal diseases is long-term; spraying is carried out throughout the entire growing season and preventive treatment is carried out at the beginning of the next season.

Alternaria or black leaf spot

It is very noticeable in the summer, when the leaves of the black currant are covered with small grayish-black spots. When the disease occurs, the fungus affects leaves, cuttings, stalks, green shoots, and berries. Closer to autumn, currants become overgrown with a dense, soft brown-olive bloom, and the leaves fly off.

The fungi that cause Alternaria blight do not kill red or black currants. But the disease is provoked by oppression of plants, poor ripening of branches and their freezing in winter.

The currant bush will not bring a full harvest either. Treatment consists of spraying Nitrofen with a sprayer at the beginning and end of the season on bare branches.

In addition, before flowering and after harvesting the fruits, 1% Bordeaux mixture, Fitosporin, Previkur, Acrobat, Ridomil are sprayed. A mandatory procedure will be the removal and incineration of all litter. It is imperative to loosen the soil under the currants. In new plantings it is better to use varieties with increased resistance.

Septoria or white spot

It is detected when small nut-colored spots appear on the leaves. Subsequently they become whitish with a brown edge.

Cercospora or brown spot

Characterized by the appearance of chestnut spots with a light stripe along the edge. Little by little, the spots grow, forming a thick brownish layer on the leaf plate.

Anthractosis

Diagnosed by the growth of red-brown spots in the middle of the season. Small spots grow in diameter and completely cover the leaf. Red currant anthractosis disease is available to a greater extent than black or white.

Phyllostictosis spot

Found on the outside of the leaves. Small red spots appear, which later lighten and change color to dirty brown. The affected leaf tissue often falls out, forming holes.

Ascochyta blight of black and red currants

Expressed in the appearance brown spots broken shape. Later they lighten, crack and fall out, leaving holes on the sheet.

Spot diseases lead to the same results:

• damage to leaves and their premature fall;
• due to lack of nutrition, young shoots do not ripen and dry out or freeze;
• a weakened bush does not winter well;
• part of the harvest is lost;
• The berries are often also damaged by the fungus and turn out tasteless.

The destruction of fungal spotting is achieved by repeated fungicides:

1. Before the buds open, spray with a 1% solution of copper sulfate, Bordeaux mixture or copper oxychloride, Nitroferon.
2. After flowering and two weeks after harvesting the fruits, spray with a 1% solution of Bordeaux mixture, Captan, Homitsin, Cuprozan, Phthalan, colloidal sulfur.
3. At the end of leaf fall, plants are sprayed with 3% Bordeaux mixture.

Rust in full form is discovered in the middle of the season. Currant disease begins with the appearance of voluminous lesions on the leaves. yellow spots(goblet) or elongated tumors (columnar) from the outer edge. Brown growths with fungal spores appear on the back edge.

Over time, rust covers the entire leaf, causing it to wither prematurely. The disease slows down the growth of branches, makes feeding difficult and weakens the plant.

Glass rust

It is detected during flowering and spoils the flowers and ovaries. Columnar rust appears by early August.

The peculiarity of this mushroom is the fact that its development requires two plants: currants and sedge or pine.

Treatment consists of spraying 5-6 irrigations throughout the season with any fungicide and pruning the affected branches. For treatment, the drugs Fitosporin, Topaz, Horus, Skor, Abiga Peak, Rayok, Gamair, 1% solution of Bordeaux mixture or copper sulfate are used.

Sooty fungus or leaf blackness

Currant bush disease is noted as the growth of a black layer similar to soot. The layer is easily erased and must be washed off, as it interferes with photosynthesis and nutrition. Spraying with a 1% solution of Bordeaux mixture is carried out before flowering and after it to eradicate the fungus.

Drying branches or tubercular disease

This disease can be identified by the appearance of small red dots on the bark and inside of the leaf. Over time, they grow, turn red, and become reddish-brown. After the spores mature, the dots turn black and the infected branches dry out. People get sick with this infection more often.

If currants have an infection, then the infection will easily spread to juniper, apple, and apricot.

We treat the bush by cutting out damaged branches and treating the sections with a 1% solution of Bordeaux mixture. It is recommended to spray the plant with this solution at least 4 times per season.

Verticillium wilt

Causes damage to the plant's vascular system. The mycelium grows in the root vessels, they become impassable, become clogged and rot. Nutrition and moisture from the roots do not reach the above-ground part.

The leaves turn yellow, the berries dry out, and the bush dies. The disease cannot be treated; the plant must be destroyed.

Moniliosis or fruit rot of berries

Easily identified by appearance infected fruits. They lighten and become flabby, and light gray mold appears on the skin. Later, the berries become mummified and are partially preserved on the branch and partially crumbled. Rotten berries are collected because they harbor fungal spores.

Early spring spraying with copper sulfate is necessary. You also need to treat the bush with 1% Bordeaux mixture before flowering and after harvesting the fruits.

Gray rot of berries

It differs from moniliosis in that rotten berries do not change their color. Infected berries are covered with a layer of smoky-gray mold and gradually crumble.

To eliminate the disease from currants, you need to collect and remove infected berries and thin out the bush to better ventilation landings.

Nectria-induced drying of shoots is characterized by the appearance of orange dots on the bark of shoots. They slowly grow and change into black tubercles with fungal spores. By this time the shoots are drying out. During treatment, the infected parts of the bush are cut out, the sections are disinfected with solutions of copper-containing preparations.

Viral infections and treatment

Dangerous viral diseases are rare. But if they get into the garden, then you must immediately remove the plant along with the roots and disinfect the soil with a strong solution of potassium permanganate. How to treat viral diseases is still not known.

This infection usually spreads through infected seedlings. Sometimes their appearance is associated with insects: gall aphids, bud mites.

Viral diseases, as well as those of black currant and white currant, occur occasionally.

Terry

This is a viral, microplasma disease that leads to infertility. The inflorescences change appearance and color, becoming abnormal in appearance and purple in color. The berries are not formed at all. Even the appearance of currant leaves changes.

If the bush is sick with reversion, then instead of five-lobed leaves, three-lobed ones with a serrated “nettle” edge grow. The characteristic currant smell disappears.

The infection spreads through infected planting material and with the help of a bud mite. It mainly affects black currants. Be sure to destroy the kidney mite using fungicides.

To do this, spray with a 1% suspension of colloidal sulfur when the buds open. The treatment is repeated 2–4 times every 2 weeks. The infected plant is uprooted and burned.

Striped or veined mosaic

Another viral disease, with it a yellow stripe forms along the main veins of the leaf. Over time, yellowness covers the entire leaf, causing it to dry out. There is no treatment other than uprooting the currants.

It is impossible to cure a viral infection by any means. Therefore, when they are detected, the diseased plant is uprooted and burned.

Important! in place of uprooted ones it is possible no earlier than after 5 years.

Green mottling of leaves

An accurate description of this disease can help the gardener identify this unpleasant disease. Pale green small dots or bulges appear on the leaves, a mosaic pattern. It is impossible not to notice her. Later, liquid pale green stripes form along the main veins of the leaf.

In the red subspecies, the virus provokes a distinct yellowing in the center of the leaf and deformation. Such bushes are immediately discarded.

Diseases that affect black currants, like diseases of red and white currants, are quite numerous. To prevent them, disease prevention is very important.

Prevention

Disease prevention is achieved primarily by selecting and purchasing seedlings of varieties that are resistant to major fungal and viral diseases.

In addition, the seedlings themselves must be guaranteed to be healthy. At the time of buying planting material It is necessary to make sure that you have a quarantine certificate, since many serious diseases entered our country from abroad.

Bushes should be planted at a sufficient distance so as not to cause thickening of the planting.

Removing leaves and branches damaged by infection, timely burning and disinfection of cuttings, digging up the soil in spring and autumn, removing weeds, sanitary pruning branches help stop the spread of infections.

The main remedy for any disease remains the use of fungicides of natural or industrial origin.

For prevention, you do not need to use them 5-6 times per season, as when fighting diseases. It is enough to spray the bush 2 times: before buds open and before flowering.

Good results in destroying fungal spores are obtained by pouring boiling water over the bush until the buds swell.

Conclusion

Before treating currants, you need to determine what the currant is sick with. Infections are very diverse, spread quickly, are resistant to fungicides, and are not afraid of frost. Currants can be freed from diseases only through persistent healing over several seasons. If you do not resort to treatment, you may not see the harvest at all.

Currant (lat. Ribes)- a genus of plants in the Gooseberry family, which includes about 150 species common in Europe, North America and Asia. The Russian name of the plant comes from the word “currant”, meaning “strong smell”, and indeed, the berries, leaves and branches of black currant are characterized by a strong, unique aroma. The white and red representatives of the genus do not have such a strong odor. The first mention of currants in Rus' dates back to the eleventh century, and chronicles of the sixteenth century tell that at that time black currants were already grown in abundance in gardens near Moscow. Today, perhaps, there is not a single garden in which a bush or two of this fragrant, tasty and healthy berry does not grow.

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Currant bush - description

Currant is a bush from one to two and a half meters high with alternate palm-shaped three- to five-lobed leaves with large teeth along the edge. Currants bloom in raceme inflorescences, consisting of 5-10 small flowers with five petals, five stamens and five sepals. Berries up to 1 cm in diameter ripen by the end of July. The currant bush can begin to bear fruit the next year after planting. Currants are shade-tolerant, but develop better in well-lit areas.

Of the numerous plant species, the most commonly cultivated are black currants (Ribes nigrum), red currants (Ribes rubrum) and white currant(Ribes niveum), yellow currants have also become popular recently. The main number of berries is formed on the shoots of the first, second and third years of life. Currant berries are a pantry organic acids, vitamins, macro- and microelements necessary for humans.

Red leaves on currant

If there are red spots on the currants, this is most likely a symptom of the presence of red gall aphids or fungal disease anthracnose, and we will tell you about them later.

Currant bloom

White bloom on currants is a sign of American or European powdery mildew, and brown bloom is evidence that you are dealing with advanced cercospora.

Currants are drying

If your currants are drying out, try to answer these questions: are they affected by pests? Doesn't it suffer from lack of moisture? How old is the currant bush? Sometimes at the end of flowering you can find that the currants have dried up - not all, but several branches. The reason for this may be the currant glassworm - a butterfly with lilac-black scales on the body and a wingspan of 2.5 cm, which lays eggs in cracks in the currant bark, and the white caterpillars that emerge from them eat away the core of the branches, which causes the currants to dry out.

Fighting method– timely treatment with insecticides – actellik or karbofos. If the cause is a lack of moisture, then you yourself know what needs to be done. But if your currant is more than fifteen years old, apparently, it’s time to take measures to rejuvenate the bush - cut off the old branches so that the currant can grow new ones, and treat the cuts with garden varnish.

The currants are falling

Currant leaves may fall off prematurely if the plant is affected by anthracnose, blight or aphids. Read about how to treat currants against diseases in the corresponding section (below).

Currant anthracnose

In mid-summer, reddish-brown spots no more than 1 mm in diameter may appear on currant leaves. The red spots that appear on the currant gradually blur, covering the entire leaf. Then the leaves in the lower part of the bush turn brown, dry out and fall off, because anthracnose also affects the petioles of the leaves. This fungal disease is most severe during the rainy season. Anthracnose affects red currants to a greater extent. The disease spores overwinter in fallen leaves, which is why it is so important to remove last year’s leaves from under the bushes in the spring.

You need to start fighting the disease as early as possible; for this purpose, currants are treated with a solution of Bordeaux mixture at the rate of 100 g per 10 liters of water. Repeated processing is carried out after harvesting.

Powdery mildew on currants

When in the middle of summer a white, loose coating appears on young leaves, which then spreads to the berries and old leaves, then you are dealing with a fungal disease, powdery mildew, or spheroteca. Since it is mainly weakened plants that are affected by diseases, good care reduces the risk of disease to a minimum, but if the disease appears, spray the currant bushes with Fitosporin or a solution of the contents of one pharmaceutical bottle of five percent iodine in ten liters of water. If necessary, the procedure can be repeated after three days.

If your manipulations are unsuccessful, you will have to resort to treating the bushes with a solution of Bordeaux mixture, copper oxychloride (1 teaspoon per 5-7 liters of water) or a one percent solution of copper sulfate.

Rust on currants

Currants can be affected by two types of rust - goblet and columnar. Goblet rust looks like raised warts orange color on the leaves, and the columnar one looks like small orange dots. Goblet rust can be transferred to currants by the wind from sedge growing nearby near a pond, and columnar rust can get to currants from coniferous trees. Start the fight against rust by treating currants with phytosporin, and if this measure does not help, treat the bushes with fungicides (one percent Bordeaux mixture, for example). There can be four such treatments with a break between them of 10 days.

Currant pests and their control

Aphids on currants

Most often, gardeners have to deal with such harmful insects as aphids, and very often readers ask the question of how to get rid of aphids on currants. Among the enemies of currants are two types of aphids - leaf gall and gooseberry shoot. The presence of gall aphids is manifested by the appearance of dark red or yellow swellings on currant leaves, depending on the type of gall aphid, and this makes the currant leaves appear yellow or red. Over time, the leaves darken, dry out and fall off.

The gall aphid on currants feeds on the juice of its leaves, and in one season there can be seven generations of these insects, each of which makes its destructive contribution to the destruction of your garden, because this aphid settles on any plants. Shoot aphids damage young currant branches, they bend and stop growing.

How to fight aphids on currants, how to treat currants against aphids? Immediately after detecting pests, spray the plant with a solution of actellik or karbofos in accordance with the instructions - these are the most the best means from aphids on currants. If necessary, repeat the treatment after a week or ten days.

Ants on currants

Where there are aphids, there are ants - this is the law of nature. It is the ants that carry aphids to new, “nourishing” areas - to young succulent shoots, the juice of which the aphids feed on, and in the fall they carry the aphids to their anthills, so that in the spring they again bring out their “herds” of aphids to graze in your currant tree. And no matter how you fight aphids, as long as there are garden ants, you will not achieve success, and every year the currant harvest will become more and more meager. In addition, ants spoil flower beds and lawns, and their anthill grows every day, reaching a depth of one and a half meters or more, and if you, having discovered the presence of these insects, do not immediately try to destroy them, then it will be much more difficult for you to do this.

There are many folk ways fighting ants, but none of them gives a 100% result. The only one in an effective way getting rid of ants is the use of modern highly effective baits and gels based on food products. Their poisonous substance does not act immediately, but after a while, so that the worker ants can deliver it to the anthill and feed it to the larvae and the queen. These innovative products were developed in Germany. You can purchase them in online stores.

Moth on currants

Fire butterflies emerge from the ground during currant flowering and lay eggs in its flowers. The emerging caterpillars eat up the currant fruits, entwining them with cobwebs. One caterpillar can spoil up to 15 currants. If butterflies have already laid eggs in flowers, you are unlikely to be able to change anything, but you can prevent the appearance of moths: in early spring Lay roofing felt or linoleum around the currant bushes, and cover the edges with earth so that butterflies cannot emerge from the soil where they overwintered as pupae. Remove the covering after the currants have finished blooming.

Mite on currants

Work with currant bushes begins in early spring, before the buds wake up and sap flow begins. First of all, you should carry out “hot” processing of currants. It is carried out for the purpose of prevention from pests and diseases and to ensure full development and subsequent abundant fruiting. Heat the water to 80 ºC and pour it over the currant bushes from a watering can with a divider. Ten liters of hot water should be enough for three bushes.

After a hot shower, it is very advisable to prune the currants - remove damaged and weakened shoots, lightly trim the tips of branches that have frozen over the winter, thin out the bush if for some reason you did not do this in the fall. When pruning, remove those branches or buds that have been affected by the bud mite. All trimmings must be burned, and sections whose diameter exceeds 8 mm must be treated with garden varnish. After this, you need to clean the area with currants from last year’s foliage, in which the larvae of insect pests and pathogens probably overwintered.

Treatment of currants against diseases

In early spring, before the buds open, spray the currant bushes and the soil under them with a two percent solution of nitrophen or karbofos - this will protect the plants from almost all diseases. After a while, to be sure, treat the currants with Bordeaux mixture, and when real spring begins and the currants begin to grow, from time to time you can spray the currants with foundationazole for preventive purposes.

Treatment of currants from pests

How to spray currants so that they are not affected by pests? Yes, all the same karbofos or nitrophen, which do an excellent job of their preventive function and protect currants not only from diseases, but also from pests. The fight against bud mites can be carried out at a temperature not lower than 20 ºC, otherwise after spraying the bushes must be wrapped in polyethylene. Don’t be lazy, otherwise you will have problems with kidney mites. To prevent the currant bushes from being harmed by the moth, at the beginning of the growing season, lay roofing material around the bushes, sprinkling its edges with earth. When the flowering ends and the fruits appear, the roofing material can be removed.

Processing currants in autumn

In the fall, you will need to do annual pruning of currants. All branches older than five years are removed because they are no longer very productive and take up too much space. In addition, you need to cut off to a healthy part or completely all the shoots in which the glass beetle has settled - they are easy to identify, they are withered and dried out. If possible, remove all shoots infected with bud mites, covered with powdery mildew, all weak and too thin zero shoots to the base of the bush.

if you have old bush, start rejuvenating it, just don’t overdo it with pruning: if you need to remove too many old branches, do it in three stages, that is, over three years - cut off a third of the branches every year. And do not forget to treat cuts of thick branches with garden varnish and burn the trimmings.

After pruning, it is time to carry out autumn preventive spraying of currants with a two percent solution of karbofos or a one percent solution of colloidal sulfur. Spray the soil under the bushes generously. Spraying should be done in warm, windless, dry weather.

Currant feeding

How to feed currants

During the period of fruit formation, it is best to use Uniflor-micro as a fertilizer at the rate of 2 tablespoons per 10 liters of water, and after harvesting it is advisable to apply fertilizer consisting of phosphorus and potassium: sprinkle a tablespoon of chlorine-free potassium and double granulated superphosphate under each bush , and then water the bush with ten liters of water if the weather is dry. If it rains, just add fertilizer to the soil. All fertilizers are scattered around the perimeter of the crown of the bush, away from its center.

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Black currants can be planted in the spring, before the buds open, but optimal time for planting - late September - early October.

Seedlings must be healthy. It is advisable to choose two-year-old seedlings with roots 15-20 cm and ground shoots about 30-40 cm. The soil should be fertile; acidic and waterlogged soils should be avoided.

Each bush requires from 2.5 to 3 m, and the distance between rows should be at least 2 m. The planting hole should be about 50 cm deep and at least 40 cm in diameter. When planting, seedlings should be placed at an angle.
There should be no coniferous trees near currant bushes.

Growing and caring for black currants

To prevent diseases and get a good harvest of black currants, you need to:
1. In the spring before the buds open:

• cut out diseased and dry branches affected by stem gall midge and glassworm larvae;
• Loosen the soil, apply nitrogen fertilizers, mulch the soil;
• Spray the bushes and soil with nitrafen and Bordeaux mixture against pests and fungal diseases;

2. Before flowering:

• spray the bushes with a 10% concentrate of karbofos emulsion against mites (bud and spider mites), aphids and other pests;
• spray the bushes with Bordeaux mixture against fungal diseases;

3. During flowering, identify and remove bushes that are affected by terry;

4. Immediately after the currants have bloomed, spray the bushes with colloidal sulfur and karbofos against sawflies, mites and moths;

5. After 10 days, repeat the procedure;

6. After picking the berries, spray the plants with Bordeaux mixture, copper sulfate, and karbofos against pests and diseases;

7. In the fall, cut out old branches, burn fallen leaves, dig up the soil in the rows, burying the remains of leaves, and mulch the soil.

If a small number of pests appear, it is recommended to destroy them manually (for example, it is quite easy to collect moths).

You can also use decoctions and infusions of insecticidal plants, which cause less damage compared to pesticides. When diseases spread and large quantities pests should use chemical control measures.

Common blackcurrant diseases and their control

Anthracnose

Anthracnose, caused by a fungus that reproduces by spores, affects young shoots, leaves, petioles and stalks of currants.

Blurry brown spots with a diameter of approximately 2.5 mm appear on the leaves, in the middle of which a dark tubercle is noticeable. With the further development of anthracnose, the spots begin to merge, the leaves become brown in color, dry out and curl upward at the edges, and then fall off.

Naked Bottom part shoots, sores appear on the shoots and petioles. In bushes affected by anthracnose, the growth of young shoots decreases and the yield decreases. Bushes heavily affected by the fungus die after 4 years.

When the disease is detected in early spring or autumn, the affected shoots are cut out. Before the buds open, the bushes should be sprayed with nitrophen (10 liters of water per 300 g). Before flowering, after it and after harvesting the fruits, spray with Bordeaux mixture.

Septoria

With septoria or white spot, premature leaf fall, poor growth of shoots and their partial death, and drying out of the buds are observed. The causative agent of the disease is a fungus.

When the disease occurs in June, numerous round or angular brown spots appear on the leaves, which then lighten in the center, and the border remains brown.

Later, black dots appear on the spots, containing fungal spores. After the spores fly out, an ulcer forms at the site of the spot. Currant bushes become massively infected at the end of summer.

In early spring, before the buds bloom, the soil and bushes are sprayed with nitrafen. When the disease develops, Bordeaux mixture is used.

Powdery mildew

Powdery mildew is a fungal disease that affects all parts of the plant. Damaged parts of the currant are initially covered with a powdery white coating, which can be easily wiped off, and over time it thickens and resembles dark brown felt.

Affected shoots dry out and die, fruits do not develop and fall prematurely, leaves curl. Within a few years, if the damage is severe, the plants die.

Bushes and soil need to be sprayed iron sulfate(10 liters of water per 300 g). When powdery plaque Spray the currants with a solution of soap and soda ash. Freshly prepared bleach is also used (10 liters of water per 1-2 tablespoons).

Treatment should be carried out 2 weeks before harvesting the fruits. After picking the berries, use preparations of foundationazole, sulfur, and a 10% emulsion of the drug Topaz.

It is also good to use an infusion of rotted manure (forest litter, hay, greenhouse soil). For the infusion, take 1 part of manure and 3 parts of water, infuse for 3 days, dilute three times with water and filter.

Currants are sprayed with infusion in cloudy weather in 3 stages: before flowering, after and before leaf fall.

Reversion

Reversion or terry currant is a viral disease that affects the entire plant and leads to currant infertility. Transmitted through planting material and bud mites.

It manifests itself in the deformation of leaves, which become elongated, three-lobed, with pointed ends, and the number of veins decreases. The leaves are losing specific smell, can purchase purple shade. Fruits are not formed.

Sick bushes should be uprooted and burned. Systematically fight the kidney mite.

Before planting, keep lignified cuttings in hot water(about 45°C) 15 minutes.

Glass rust

Glass rust, caused by spring period fungal spores, is characterized by the appearance of orange pads on young shoots, leaves, flowers and fruits, which by the end of May resemble a cluster of glasses. Further development of the fungus occurs on the sedge, where the wind carries the spores. Affected flowers, leaves and berries fall off.

Spray the currant bushes three times with Bordeaux mixture. In summer, mow down the sedge, collect fallen leaves and remove affected shoots.

Columnar rust

Currant leaves are affected by columnar rust, which appears as small yellowish spots and bright orange pads on the underside of the leaf. When the disease occurs, the leaves fall prematurely, which leads to a decrease in next year's harvest. Currants are most often affected, near which coniferous trees grow.

Spray with Bordeaux mixture before and after flowering, as well as after harvesting.

By regularly caring for blackcurrant bushes, promptly removing affected shoots and promptly treating the soil and bushes with preparations that prevent the development of diseases and the proliferation of pests, you will be able to harvest a wonderful harvest every year.

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So as not to lose most powerful source vitamins and healing substances, the health of currants needs to be taken care of like the best doctor and assistant. Knowledge about pathogens and symptoms of the most common diseases will help you begin to act promptly and correctly.

Anthracnose

Among summer residents and gardeners, the name fly-catcher is more common. The disease is relevant for all types of currants. But the pathogen has the greatest selectivity for red currants.

How to recognize the disease?

The pathogen is highly resistant and thrives in last year’s currant leaves, overwintering under bushes. Its spread is facilitated by water and numerous bugs and insects. A fungal infection affects bushes during the rainy season. High humidity stimulates fast growth pathogenic fungus. It spreads throughout the bush, leading to its death. Main signs of the disease:

• the appearance of small brown spots. Their diameter is up to 1 mm. There are dark tubercles in the center;
• the spots grow and merge, involving the entire leaf blade in the inflammatory process;
• as a result, the leaves dry out and fall off;
• the bush is dying.

Red currants tolerate the disease much worse than black currants. A few small spots are enough and the leaves will begin to fall off.

Fungal spores can persist in contaminated plant material for many years, perfectly tolerating any frost.

Prevention

1. Dead bushes are dug up and burned.
2. Old and diseased leaves must be completely destroyed.
3. Mandatory digging of the earth along the periphery of the bushes is carried out. The depth of the top layer is 10 cm.
4. In the contaminated area you need to carry out a special autumn processing fungicide. You can generously spill the soil around the bushes with a solution of copper sulfate.
5. New bushes should not be planted on contaminated soil. You need to choose a new place at least 5 m from the fungal outbreak.
6. All weeds must be carefully weeded. It is better not to leave them on the site. The infection persists in them.

Treatment

Timely treatment is the key to saving the bushes in time. What you can use for this:

• Bordeaux mixture is the highlight of all gardeners for many pathologies. It kills fungi and stops the disease. Therefore, when spots with tubercles are detected, immediate treatment should be started. The drug is diluted as follows - 100 g of product per 10 liters of water;
• Nitrafen. A 3% solution is an effective remedy against fungi. Therapeutic dose is 300g per 10 liters of liquid. Plants are sprayed in the spring before the buds swell. At the end of October - after the leaves have completely fallen off;
• Cuprosan;
• Colloidal sulfur.

Choosing a resistant variety ensures success when growing currant bushes.

Powdery mildew

Forms of pathology

The disease has characteristic feature- white coating, like flour. The disease has two types:

1. European - the type of lesion is somewhat reminiscent of a cobweb. Less common. Red currants are mainly affected.

1. American. Another name for the sphere library. Loose growth grows on the leaves mealy fungus. Soon it becomes dense and felt-like.

The process involves:

• leaves,
• branches,
• shoots,
• ovaries,
• green berries.

The disease develops at the end of May. The leaves dry out and curl up. Shoots and branches die. The disease is caused by a special marsupial fungus that overwinters in leaf litter and on bushes.

Symptoms

All types of bushes are affected, but red currants are most susceptible to it. Shrubs suffer great damage. The disease is manifested by the following symptoms:

• whitish, loose coating;
• gradually it takes on a felt appearance if the form of the disease is spheroteca;
• the plaque completely involves the plant in the infectious process;
• leaves and berries dry and fall off;
• the growth of shoots stops, they begin to bend;
• the tops become black and look burnt;
• the leaves become smaller and turn yellow;
• internodes are shortened

With timely treatment, the outcome is favorable, the plants respond well to treatment.

How to defeat powdery mildew?

Not only fungicides are effective for treatment, but also products that are always at hand.

1. Fitosporin;
2. 5% iodine. One bottle is diluted in 10 liters of water. Spray the affected bushes several times. The interval between treatments is three days.
3. 1% copper sulfate. 1 teaspoon per seven liters of liquid.
4. Biological products – Trichodermin, Phytodoctor.
5. Antifungal agents – Paracelsus, Horus.

The treatment is carried out 3 times. It's important to do this

1. before flowering
2. after flowering,
3. after picking berries.

Traditional methods for treating powdery mildew show high efficiency. Use a solution of soda ash. You can prepare soapy water using laundry soap. Chloride of lime is diluted in a dosage of 2 tbsp. for 10 liters of water.

Preventive measures:

• Never plant currants, grapes and gooseberries next to each other. These shrubs are most susceptible to infection by a harmful fungus. The disease can continuously circulate in a circle, it will be very difficult to stop it.
• Cut out infected branches in a timely manner;
• Treat currants after fruiting, before wintering, and before bud break. To completely get rid of pathogens.

What do they offer in selection?

Selecting varietal resistant shrubs is not an easy task. Here is a list to help you make your choice:

• Red Cross;
• London Market;
• Ceres;
• Tsiralt;
• Ural white;
• Natalie;
• Radiant;
• Temptation.

White spot

Scientifically called septoria. The disease is caused by a pathogenic fungus. Damaged leaves fall off much earlier than expected. The branches stop growing, the buds dry out.

Manifestations of white spotting

Main features:

• the formation of a huge number of small dark spots on the leaves;
• the spots are round in shape;
• the color of the affected areas is brown with a pronounced lightening in the center and a brown border along the edge;
• black dots in the spots appear a little later. They contain spores of a pathogenic pathogen.

• then ulcers form in place of the blackheads. This means that the fungal spores have matured and scattered into new leaves.

• the disease usually begins in June;
• mass destruction of bushes occurs in August.

Treatment measures

In early spring, before the buds begin to hatch, the bushes are treated with Biological Preparations. You can spray with Phytodoctor or Nitrofen. At the height of the disease, Bordeaux mixture can be used effectively.

Rust on currants

Types of pathology

Such damage to bushes can be seen at any time of the spring-summer season. There are two subtypes of the disease:

1. Goblet - convex elevations are formed on the leaf blades. They resemble warts or small mounds. The bright orange pads are easily identifiable.

Spores are hidden in them. They are located on the reverse side of the sheet. It is difficult to confuse this disease with something else. Sometimes ovaries and inflorescences are involved in the process. Affected leaves quickly turn yellow and fall off, and along with them crumbles future harvest. Fungal spores arrive from sedge, where, under conditions optimal humidity fungi multiply abundantly and begin migration.

1. Columnar. Bright orange and yellow splashes are clearly visible on the leaves.

On back side small pads can be seen on the leaf. They attract attention with the brightness of their orange hue. As the disease progresses, spore columns appear here - brown bristles. Pathogen spores are abundantly hidden in them.

The pathogen lives in needles and easily spreads to currant bushes. It causes the greatest harm to black currants. Leaves fall off at the height of flowering or fruiting. The growth of shoots is inhibited. The bush weakens and loses stability. The next year the harvest drops significantly.

Prevention

If you have goblet rust, you should not plant plants next to sedge. If the weed itself unexpectedly grows around the currant, it is necessary to get rid of it quickly. Columnar rust is transferred from any coniferous trees. The best place for planting - elevated places, away from increased humidity and wetlands. All leaves in the fall are raked and burned, if suddenly orange elevations are found anywhere.

The bushes are treated with antifungal agents in several stages - at the opening of the buds, during flowering, and during the formation of ovaries.

For prevention, currants are sprayed with Bordeaux mixture three times:

• before the buds open;
• on the eve of flowering;
• after flowering is complete.

For this purpose, it is good to use a Cuprozan suspension. You can apply 1% colloidal sulfur at a dose of 3 kg/ha. Spraying is also carried out three times - before the flowers appear, 12 days after flowering and after fruiting.

Variety selection

The right fungus-resistant variety is the key to currant health. Which varieties should you especially pay attention to:

• Dutch red;
• Kyiv Suite;
• Minsk;
• Versailles white;
• Goliath;
• Faya is fertile;
• Cantata;
• Neapolitan;
• Nina;
• Chereshneva.

Treatment

A number of means help to effectively cope with fungal pathogens. The following control measures are used:

1. Spraying infected bushes with 1% Bordeaux mixture. It is diluted in water at the rate of 1 tsp. for 7 liters. The treatment is carried out 4 times, maintaining an interval of 10 days.
2. Powerful fungicidal drugs are widely used if the disease has become widespread. Or if other methods of struggle do not help.
3. Fitosporin is diluted and used according to instructions.
4. Phytodoctor is widely prescribed; it copes well with fungi.

Terry, blackcurrant threat

Reversion of black currant occurs when infected with a virus - Riber virus 1. The virus causes mutations at the molecular level, leading to genetic damage. As a result, blackcurrant bushes become barren. Carrier – kidney mite

Features of the disease

It is most convenient to determine doubleness during the flowering period. Leaves and flowers must be carefully examined. The following characteristic signs are important for diagnosis:

1. Changes in leaves
   • the shape of the leaves changes. They can lengthen and acquire pointed tips;
   • sharp teeth along the edge of the leaf become deeper and larger;
   • new additional cutouts appear;
   • leaves become asymmetrical;
   • instead of five blades, three are formed;
   • the number of veins is reduced;
   • color changes.
2. Changes in inflorescences
   • the flowers stretch out, acquiring an elongated shape;
   • the petals acquire a purple, green, dirty pink hue;
   • the inflorescences disappear without forming berries;
   • flowering is delayed;
   • fruiting is reduced, subsequently until it stops completely;
   • currants do not have a characteristic special smell.

The disease can be detected when flower stalks appear. Bushes affected by the virus are a source of infection for healthy plants. In this regard, they need to get rid of them. Spraying with drugs will not work. Pruning will only prolong the existence of the virus and will not completely eliminate the disease. The infection can last for more than one year. The reason for this is insects that carry viruses. These are aphids and currant mites.

What can be done, how to prevent

Because medicines there is no cure for the disease. And in case of infection you will have to say goodbye to your black darling. We need to create as much as possible healthy conditions for cultivation, increase immunity and immunity in shrubs. Basic Rules:

1. The only way to protect healthy bushes is to uproot and burn affected plants;
2. Control tick vectors and aphids.
3. Fertilize with phosphorus and potassium fertilizers.
4. Reduce the use of nitrogen compounds - they weaken the bushes when the dose is exceeded.
5. Treat with Karbofos after fruiting.

Nectria drying

Disease of shoots of red and white currants, less often black. Young shoots and new branches are mainly affected. The causative agent is a marsupial fungus that lives at the base of branches. Often found on living and drying shoots. The disease begins with the appearance of tubercles on the bark of the affected branches. They contain pathogen spores.

Diagnostics by appearance

External signs have the following features:

• At the base of the branches there are abundant stromas, well convex and noticeable.
• They are shaped like a pillow.
• At the beginning of the disease, the color is bright red or bright orange.
• The density is leathery, fleshy.
• By the time the spores mature, darkening occurs.
• The stroma breaks through the cortex and rises to the surface.
• Damaged shoots dry out and die.

Control measures

Timely treatment starts leads to good results. What you need to do to save the plant in time:

1. When the first signs appear, you should immediately carefully prune the bush. Completely remove infected branches and burn.
2. Immediately treat the cutting areas with Bordeaux mixture.
3. Apply garden varnish to the cuts.

Striped mosaic, how to find out?

Why does it occur and how does it manifest?

A disease that cannot be cured. The causative agents are viruses, and the carriers are sucking insect pests. These are currant mites, aphids. They, feeding on plant sap, spread the infection through the salivary glands throughout the area with bushes. Sometimes the disease can be transmitted through the graft of an infected cutting. Carrying out pruning without following the rules for disinfecting pruners also contributes to the spread of the virus from diseased plants to healthy ones. The mosaic looks quite specific - bright yellow stripes appear on the leaf blades. They form a mosaic pattern around the leaf veins.

Timely measures will help prevent the spread

A treatment for this dangerous viral disease has not yet been created. Therefore, all efforts must be directed to prevent the pathological process. What rules must be followed to avoid striped mosaic?

1. Choose healthy bushes for cuttings.
2. Purchase strong and proven planting material.
3. Fight insects that carry viruses. To do this, treat currants against aphids and mites twice a season.
4. Uproot disease-damaged bushes completely and burn them.
5. It is not recommended to plant currants in the area where bushes with mosaic disease grew for 5 years.

Gray rot

The disease occurs when infected dangerous fungus which causes illness in almost everyone garden crops. The source is infected spoiled fruits, affected branches and leaves. Fungal spores are transported by wind and rain.

Signs of gray rot

Main manifestations:

• brown spots on leaf blades;
• lumps of mold on twigs;
• White currants are more susceptible to the disease than other bushes.

Protection measures

Prevention comes down to treating bushes with Zircon in the spring. Repeated spraying is carried out at the end of August. Follow the watering regime, avoiding waterlogging of the soil. Infected branches and leaves are burned. To destroy fungal spores in early spring and during leaf fall, the bushes are treated with a urea solution. Dilute 700 g into a ten-liter bucket.

IN last years Quite a lot of currant varieties have appeared that are quite resistant to certain diseases. But, if resistance to certain diseases increases, then at the same time there is an increase in the susceptibility of bushes to other pathogens. There are no varieties yet that are absolutely resistant to most of the most common diseases.

Black currant plumpness

Description of the disease. Incurable viral disease of currants. Most often it affects black currants. White and red are more resistant, although some varieties (especially older ones) can be affected by the virus. The source of infection is the bush itself, infected planting material, gardening Tools, which were not processed before trimming. The virus overwinters in the conducting tissues of the bush. Its carriers are kidney mites, aphids, gall midges, berry bugs, spider mites and other pests. The virus is not transmitted through soil or water. The disease is extremely dangerous, it causes degradation of varietal qualities and leads to degeneration of currants. Therefore, its second name is currant reversion.

Signs of defeat. A sign by which it can be determined that a bush is infected even before the full picture of the disease appears is the loss of the typical currant smell of the buds, leaves and berries.

External signs of the disease appear in the spring when the leaves bloom and currants bloom. The leaf opening is delayed, they become three-lobed instead of 5-lobed, with large, sparse teeth along the edges. The emerging young leaves are small, dark green, with thickened veins; they do not develop further.

A characteristic sign of doubleness, by which the disease is determined, is the structure of the flowers. Typically, black currant petals are fused, round, and white. Diseased bushes have separate-petalled flowers that become purple in color. Petals, stamens, and pistil are deformed, and scales are formed instead, resembling tentacles extended forward. Flower brushes become longer and also acquire a dirty pink or purple. Berries from such flowers either do not set at all, or a small number of small, ugly fruits appear. Bushes that are sick with double bloom bloom late.

In the photo there is a currant bush that is sick with terry disease.

On diseased plants, a lot of thin and short shoots appear that do not have a currant smell.

The first signs begin to appear 1-2 years after infection. Before this, the bushes have a normal appearance, although the currant smell becomes weak, and the yield is somewhat less than that characteristic of the variety; a few berries are ugly in shape. Over time, signs of terry disease increase, and the disease develops very gradually.

Sometimes there is an incomplete picture of the disease, in which the tips of the shoots or individual branches are affected. The upper leaves are underdeveloped, small, dark green, three-lobed, asymmetrical. The berries on such branches are small and there are fewer of them than on healthy plants, sometimes the fruits are not set at all.

Control measures. Terry is incurable. If signs of the disease are detected, diseased bushes are removed and burned, otherwise the entire plantation can be infected. In place of removed bushes, currants cannot be planted for 5 years, not only black ones, but also red and white ones. The fight against the virus is ineffective because it does not destroy plant tissue, but invades the cell, as a result of which it loses its normal functions and begins to produce a virus. To kill it, you need to kill the cell, and this is impossible without killing the entire bush.

Prevention of disease.

1. If there were diseased plants on the plantation, then before pruning the remaining bushes, garden tools must be treated with alcohol or a strong solution of potassium permanganate.
2. Pest control. They carry the virus with saliva to healthy crops.
3. There is a recommendation to use healthy planting material. But by the appearance of cuttings and seedlings it is impossible to determine whether they are healthy or infected with terry. Infected 2-year-old seedlings look quite healthy; only the smell, which is rather weak for black currants, can be alarming. The disease manifests itself only during the growth and development of bushes. To prevent the disease, varieties resistant to terry are planted: Pamyat Michurina, Dubrovskaya, Binar, Nara, Primorsky Champion, Lia Fertile, Zhelannaya. The black currant varieties Zagadka, Odzhebin (Swedish variety), and Alexandrina are not resistant to the disease. Of the red currants, the Red Cross and Shchedraya varieties are very susceptible to terry.

Green mottle

The photo shows a currant leaf affected by green mottling.

Description of the disease. A viral disease of currants, the causative agent of which is the cucumber mosaic virus. Affects all types of currants. The disease spreads quite slowly in plantings. The source of infection is about 60 species various plants, including weeds, as well as infected planting material. Its main carrier is aphids.

Signs of defeat. When black currants bud, pale green dots appear on young leaves. In summer they turn into watery streaks stretched along the veins. Sometimes, instead of strokes, pale green spots appear, which occupy large areas of the sheet and are very clearly visible in transmitted light.

In red and white currants, instead of light green streaks, pale yellow spots appear near the petiole. The spots can be large, but are always located in the central part of the leaf. The leaves are severely deformed, wrinkled, and their edges curl down. Most often, with yellowing of the leaves on red and white currants, young shoots dry out.

In young bushes and rooted cuttings, the first signs appear the next year after planting. If currants are propagated by seeds, the disease appears in the same year.

The bushes begin to lag behind in growth, the yield decreases.

Control measures. Green mottle is incurable. When the first signs appear, the bushes are uprooted and burned.

Disease prevention.

1. Control of weeds that are affected by the virus (bindweed, sow thistle, woodlice, quinoa). Pumpkin should not be planted next to bushes, as it is also susceptible to the disease.
2. Destruction of aphids in the garden.

Glass rust

Description of the disease. The causative agent is a pathogenic fungus. Its spores overwinter on sedge plant remains, withstand severe frosts, and in the spring they are carried by the wind to currants. Affects ovaries, berries, leaves. All types of currants and gooseberries are susceptible to damage. The disease is very common in the North-Western regions and middle lane. The disease progresses especially strongly in wet years, when 70-78% of leaves and 40-45% of ovaries on black currants and 57-68% on red currants are affected.

Signs of defeat. At the end of May and beginning of June, yellow, slightly convex spots appear on the leaves and petioles on the upper side. Sporulation of the fungus with goblet-shaped depressions appears on the lower side. As the spores mature, they scatter, causing a new infection. Affected leaves and ovaries fall off by mid-summer.

How to treat the disease.

1. Autumn processing tree trunk circles, collection and destruction of affected leaves.
2. In the spring, before the buds open, they are treated with 3% Bordeaux mixture or HOM. When buds open, treatment is carried out with a 1% solution of drugs.
3. Before the buds open, they are treated with nitrafen (if you can find it, the chemical is not commercially available). The drug is effective against many diseases and pests, but it cannot be used after sap flow begins. Spray the branches and water around the perimeter of the bushes.
4. When the first signs appear, they are sprayed with Topaz, Skor, and the biological product Fitosporin.

Folk remedies for fighting glass rust. The most popular of them is spraying with infusion tobacco dust and garlic. The mixture is prepared as follows: 200 g of tobacco dust is infused for 3 days in 2 liters of water; A glass of cloves is poured with 2 liters of boiling water and left for 3 days. Then everything is mixed, household ingredients are added. soap as an adhesive, add hot pepper on the tip of a knife. The bushes are sprayed with this solution until the buds open.

Prevention.

1. Mowing sedge within a radius of 500 meters from the site.
2. Planting fairly resistant currant varieties. There are no varieties that are absolutely resistant to rust yet, but there are those that are very weakly affected by the disease. From black currants these are Sevchanka, Selechenskaya 2, Bylinnaya, Veloy, Kipiana. From red - Detvan, Beloved, Dana; from white - Smolyaninovskaya, Minusinskaya white.
3. During the season, preventive spraying of currants with biological products (Gamair, Alirin B, Fitosporin) is carried out.

Columnar rust

The causative agent is a pathogenic fungus. Overwinters on Weymouth pine and Siberian cedar, infects berry bushes in spring. Plantings located near coniferous forests are especially affected.

Signs of defeat. Signs of the disease begin to appear in mid-summer. Yellow-brown spots appear on the leaves on the upper side, which can then merge. On the underside, rusty growths appear - these are pads with fungal spores, which subsequently stretch into hairs or columns. Diseased leaves turn yellow and fall off, leaving the bush bare.

How to spray currants against columnar rust.

1. In the spring, spray three times with copper-containing preparations. The first treatment is done when the buds open, the second - 10-14 days after the first, the third - 2 weeks after the second. If the weather is very rainy, then carry out the fourth spraying after 12-17 days.
2. Spraying with Fitosporin three times with an interval of 10-15 days.

Traditional methods of fighting the disease.

1. Spraying with a mixture of infusions of tobacco dust and garlic.
2. Spraying with soda solution. 3 tablespoons of soda are poured into 10 liters of water, add liquid soap. Spraying is carried out at the onset of the disease. It is also necessary to treat the leaves on the underside, where the spores ripen.

Prevention.

1. In early spring, before the snow has melted, they pour boiling water over the bushes.
2. Timely cutting out all diseased and damaged branches.
3. In areas prone to severe spread of the disease (lowlands, forests), varieties resistant to rust are planted.

Powdery mildew

Signs of defeat. A white cobwebby coating appears in the form of spots on the leaves of diseased currants, which spreads very quickly. After 3-5 days, the plaque thickens, acquires a brown-gray tint, becomes felt-like, and spores form in it. After they disperse, droplets of liquid remain (hence the name). The leaves stop developing, turn brown and dry out, and the shoots become deformed. The berries become covered with a felt coating and become unsuitable for food.

The photo shows currant berries affected by powdery mildew.

When widespread, young growth develops poorly, becomes thin and deformed, and the yield is greatly reduced or completely lost. The disease significantly reduces the winter hardiness of currants.

Treatment of currants.

The disease is very difficult to completely eradicate.

1. At the first signs of damage, spraying with copper-containing preparations (HOM, Ordan) is carried out. Bordeaux mixture is ineffective against powdery mildew. Before spraying, remove all infected berries, leaves, and shoots.
2. Treatment of plantings with colloidal sulfur and preparations based on it (Tiovit Jet). Treatment can be carried out 3-4 days before picking berries, since sulfur and its derivatives are not toxic to humans.
3. Spraying with Skor, Quadris, Tilt. With the constant appearance of powdery mildew on varieties susceptible to it, 4-fold treatment with these drugs is carried out. ! spraying after the leaves bloom before flowering; 2nd - immediately after flowering; 3rd - after picking berries; 4th 10-14 days after the third. If the summer is very wet, then 15-17 days after the last spraying, another treatment is carried out.

When treating with any preparation, it is necessary to spray the leaves from the underside. The disease is very difficult to eradicate. The pathogen quickly develops resistance to fungicides, making them ineffective. To prevent this from happening, spray with a new drug each time.

Folk ways to combat powdery mildew.

1. Spraying with iodine. 10 ml of 5% iodine solution (sold in a pharmacy), diluted in 10 liters of water. Spray twice with an interval of 10 days. Effective in the initial stage of the disease, when arachnoid plaque has just appeared.
2. Mustard infusion. 2 tbsp. spoons of dry mustard are dissolved in 10 liters of boiling water, left for 1-1.5 hours. The treatment is carried out with a cooled infusion.
3. Spraying diseased currant bushes with a very strong solution of potassium permanganate. Carry out 3-fold treatment with an interval of 5 days.
4. Ash-soap solution. 1 kg wood ash pour 10 liters of boiling water and leave for 24-48 hours. Then the infusion is filtered, 50 g of soap is added and the diseased bushes are sprayed. The treatment is repeated after 7-10 days. The method is effective only at the very beginning of the disease.

Prevention.

1. Moderate pruning of infected plantings and, at the same time, complete cutting out of all unnecessary weak young branches, especially in the lower part of the bush, since powdery mildew begins from the lower branches and primarily affects young leaves and shoots.
2. Preventive “blue” spraying in the spring when leaves bloom with preparations containing copper.
3. In early spring, before the buds open, spray with a concentrated solution of urea (700-800 g of urea per 10 liters of water).
4. 4-fold treatment during the growing season with biological products (Fitosporin, Gamair, Alirin B, Planriz.
5. Planting varieties resistant to powdery mildew. Among black-fruited varieties - Riddle, Zvezdnaya, Selechenskaya, Yadrenaya, Rita, Sevchanka. From the red one - Svetlana, Krasnaya Andreichenko, Jonker Van Tets. From white - Dessert, White squirrel, Cream.
6. Mandatory reduction in doses of nitrogen fertilizers.

Anthracnose

Anthracnose on currants.

Description of the disease. The causative agent is a pathogenic fungus. Overwinters on plant debris, damaged bark and young shoots. Affects all types of currants and gooseberries. On black, as a rule, only leaves are affected, on red and white - leaf petioles, stalks, young shoots and berries. It develops especially strongly in damp but hot summers and in the southern regions. In the middle zone it appears in mid-summer; in the south it can be observed as early as May. In dry summers, anthracnose damage is minimal. Spore carriers are pests. Fungal spores are easily spread by wind.

Signs of defeat. First, light brown glossy spots appear on the affected leaves, which then turn brown and merge with each other, affecting large areas of the leaf plate. The leaves curl upward, dry out and fall off prematurely. First of all, the old leaves in the center of the bush are affected, then anthracnose spreads to younger leaves. If the disease is severe, currants may lose all their foliage by August.

Brown-gray small ulcerated depressions appear on the affected petioles, young shoots and stalks. Small black, glossy spots appear on the berries. Affected fruits fall off without ripening. The growth of annual shoots slows down greatly and they grow poorly.

Anthracnose is a dangerous disease of currants.

If leaves are damaged on red and white currants, the bushes drop their foliage, even if there are only a few spots of anthracnose on it.

The winter hardiness of affected plants is sharply reduced. In cold winters, up to 50% of bush branches can freeze. Productivity is falling sharply.

How the disease is treated.

1. If the damage is minor, remove the affected parts manually.
2. Spraying 4 times during the summer with preparations containing copper. The first treatment is carried out before the buds open. Then, with an interval of 10-14 days (depending on the weather), 3 more treatments are done.
3. Cleaning up fallen leaves and plant debris.
4. Careful weeding of currant rows.
5. In the early stages, biological products (Fitosporin, Alirin B) help well. The same preparations are used to spray bushes when berries are damaged. Biofungicides are not dangerous to humans and the crop can be harvested 2-3 days after treatment.
6. Autumn treatment of the soil around plants with the biological product Trichoderma.

Folk remedies they are ineffective against anthracnose and if the disease appears on currants, chemicals must be used immediately.

Prevention.

1. Annual spraying of bushes with preparations containing copper.
2. Use varieties that are resistant to anthracnose. Black currant - Lazy, Sevchanka. Red - Generous, Svetlana. White - Belaya Potapenko, Yutenberg.
3. Before planting, cuttings are disinfected by immersing them in a solution of copper sulfate for 5 minutes, then washed with water. The seedlings are sprayed with the same solution.
4. Proper nutrition. Foliar feeding in summer they increase the resistance of currants to diseases in general and to anthracnose in particular. Use a phosphorus extract, or prepare a complex fertilizer: 1 tbsp. spoon of superphosphate, 2 tbsp. spoons of potassium sulfate, immunocytitis 1 tab, water 10 l. Spray the leaves from the top and bottom sides.

Septoria or white spot

The disease is caused by a pathogenic fungus that overwinters on young shoots, plant debris and bark. It affects black currants very strongly, and to a lesser extent red and white ones.

Signs of defeat. Leaves, buds, and sometimes berries are affected. The first signs appear at the beginning of summer, the peak of development occurs in the second half of summer. Very small round or angular red-brown spots appear on the leaves. They quickly enlarge, lighten in the center and become white with a brown border. Black dots appear in their center - this is the sporulation of the fungus. Over the summer, several generations of spores are formed.

Elongated spots with a brown border and light in the center appear on the petioles and stems. Subsequently, the stains are pressed into the wood and form small pits.

Small flat dark spots appear on the berries, and the fruits dry out.

With septoria, the leaves dry out and fall off en masse, the bush becomes depleted, and the buds do not open. The yield of affected bushes is greatly reduced.

How to deal with white spotting.

1. Collecting and burning affected leaves, berries, shoots.
2. Three-time treatment with copper-containing preparations during the summer. The first spraying after the leaves bloom, subsequent sprayings at intervals of 12-15 days.
3. Treatment with systemic fungicide Bayleton.

Prevention. If the bushes suffer from a disease every year, then feeding with microelements at the beginning of the growing season helps increase resistance. Also, they are treated with the immunostimulant Zircon.

Tubercular disease or drying out of branches (nectria necrosis)

Tubercular disease is an insidious disease of currants that can infect the entire garden.

Signs of defeat. The spores fall on young 2-4 year old shoots and germinate into the wood. The mycelium feeds on cell sap. Brick-red dots (sporulation pads) appear on the bark, which gradually darken and dry out. The bark on the affected branches dies, the tips of the shoots, and sometimes entire infected branches dry out and die. The young growth dies, the currant grows poorly and does not lay flower buds (since in red currant they are laid at the border of older and younger wood).

Control measures must be taken immediately, since the disease enters the garden through red currants and can then spread to all bushes and fruit trees(apple tree, plum tree, cherry tree).

1. Cut all affected branches to the base. If the bush is severely damaged, it is uprooted, even if there are healthy shoots on it. All cut branches are immediately burned, as the fungus can still develop on the dead wood for some time and disperse the spores.
2. Treatment of plantings with Topsin-M. The drug has a contact-systemic effect, penetrates the wood and kills the mycelium. Apply once per season, as addiction to it quickly develops.

Prevention.

1. Use healthy planting material, without damage to the bark, bare and drying tips of the shoots.
2. Spraying with preparations containing copper. When infected, this remedy is ineffective, since the mycelium penetrates deep into the wood. But as a preventive measure, copper-containing preparations perfectly protect shrubs from disease.
3. Removing all branches located close to the ground. They are often damaged during soil cultivation and serve as a potential entry point for the pathogen.

This is what marginal necrosis of currant leaves looks like

This is not a disease as such, but a reaction of currants to excess chlorine in the soil. Occurs on all types of currants and gooseberries.

Signs of defeat. The edges of the leaves become light brown or ashy in color and dry out. There is a sharp boundary between dried and healthy tissue; the leaves do not curl, but become more light shade. The symptoms are similar to those of potassium starvation, but the distinctive feature of excess chlorine is that the leaves do not wrinkle or curl and there is a clear boundary between the healthy and affected parts. With a lack of potassium, the leaves wrinkle and curl upward, but do not fall off; there is no clear boundary between healthy and diseased tissue.

Control measures. Immediate feeding ammonium nitrate. It is necessary to ensure that the fertilizer reaches the roots quickly, which can be achieved by abundant watering after application or deep incorporation of the fertilizer.

Proper care of currants significantly increases its resistance to any diseases.