Edge materials. Types and process of gluing furniture edges made of PVC, melamine onto chipboard How to glue edging with glue yourself

Today we’ll look at a more professional technique for gluing end decorative edges. This is edging with hot glue using a hair dryer. Naturally, not having professional equipment, we will disassemble it in an amateur manner, accessible to any garage technician.

To work, we will need a 2 mm PVC edge with hot-melt adhesive applied to it - it is applied with a special roller in the form of a mesh.

It can be purchased at furniture stores by the meter. If the store does not sell edges with an applied adhesive layer, then it can be applied in furniture shops for a fee (as a rule, it does not exceed 5 rubles per linear meter).

• In addition to the edge itself, we will need a heat gun (aka an industrial hair dryer),
• as well as an edge milling cutter with a molding cutter with a ball bearing installed in it.
• Additional elements are a fabric glove (one is enough) and a felt block.

Let's move on to consider the methodology itself. It is better to set the hairdryer to medium values ​​(about 300-400 degrees Celsius).

We fix the workpiece on the workbench (horizontally if it is large and vertically in a clamp if it is small). First, we warm up the tip of the edge tape - it should soften a little and become elastic.

While the glue has not hardened, apply the heated edge to the end of the workpiece. Using a felt block, press the attached edge tightly against the part for 10-20 seconds until the glue cools.

Then, directing a stream of hot air into the gap between the part and the edge tape, we warm up the latter, 10-15 centimeters in length,

after which we put the hair dryer aside, take a block and roll the heated tape with sliding movements.

This manipulation is repeated again and again. At the same time, you should not overheat the edge (it should not acquire pronounced plastic properties). If only to a minimal extent - the edge seems to begin to reach towards the workpiece - then stop heating, you need to press. This moment comes with experience.

It is important not only not to overheat, but also not to underheat. In the first case, the edge will acquire excessive plasticity and may become wavy. In the second case, it simply won’t stick.

Now we move on to the next stage, which is quite difficult at first - this is processing or gluing the corner radius (and it is easier to glue the outer one than the inner one). I described >>.

In this case, the edge must be just overheated so that it can easily be molded onto the profile being glued.

After warming up, when the edge has softened, we quickly press the edge to the surface, trying to move along the entire corner.

At first it may not work out, that is, you need to practice first.

After we have glued all the edge tape, we move on to removing the excess, that is, overhangs. You can cut the ends with pruning shears or simply break them off after scratching them with a sharp object (I usually use method 1).

Overhangs on the edges are removed with a special edge router.

Doing this manually is quite problematic due to the large thickness of the edge. The cutter cuts off the excess while rounding off the remaining edge.

Excess glue, which is often not removed with a cutter, can be scraped off with a simple metal ruler.

Often, after removing the overhangs, visible areas are not glued together.

Personally, I usually get them on the corners. What to do with them? We take the hairdryer again and heat up the un-glued area from the outside, trying to get a stream of air to blow into the gap.

After warming up for 5-6 seconds, put the hair dryer aside and firmly press the area with a felt block to the surface of the part for 20-30 seconds.

As a rule, this is enough to glue the edge and remove the gap.

Now all that remains is to polish the milled edge, which has a rough structure.

To do this, we make several vigorous movements along the cut edge of the edge.

At the same time, the felt warms up a little, melts the PVC, which smoothes out all the unevenness.

And a photo of the finished work (it will be a tabletop with a rounded corner).

This technique is used even in small professional workshops when processing radius parts because large stationary automatic edgers, as a rule, do not have the ability to apply edges to curves, and not everyone considers it cost-effective to purchase small specialized units (at least in a furniture workshop, with with whom I collaborate, this is exactly the case).

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Today, furniture edges serve as protection for the end parts of cabinet products. It is offered by most manufacturers, and is also divided into several types. Depending on the purpose of the furniture, a certain type is used, which effectively protects the edges from damage. In order to know which edging to give preference to when choosing products, it is necessary to study their variety, scope of application, as well as sizes.

Regardless of what type of edge is used, it is designed to protect the end parts of the product. Such a device is especially necessary when producing inexpensive furniture from chipboard or laminated chipboard. Since these materials contain harmful formaldehydes, which over time can evaporate their substances into the atmosphere. Edge materials allow you to cover raw edges, preventing the spread of fumes.

Another undoubted advantage of such a detail is the protection of wood materials from moisture getting inside. As you know, water penetrating into the pores of wood has a detrimental effect on it. If solid wood furniture is considered more resistant to moisture, then chipboard definitely needs an edge for the furniture.

Independent production of furniture parts implies the mandatory use of edging. If this is not done, then during operation the uncovered edges of the product will be subject to rapid wear. Possible causes include accidentally touching the edge, scratching with a sharp object, or carelessly closing the doors. This is why processing chipboard with edge material is so important in furniture production. To consolidate the information provided, it is necessary to highlight a number of functions performed by the edge - a special tape made from various raw materials for processing the edges of furniture:

1. Beautiful appearance of the ends of the products. When shopping in a store, the buyer first of all looks at the aesthetic design. It is unlikely that he will want to install a sliding wardrobe where the internal shelves look unfinished, and their edges differ in color and structure from the facades;
2. Protection from mechanical damage. Edge materials are designed to protect fragile chipboards from moisture and delamination. Chips and burrs caused by impacts can cause snags on clothing and scratches on the skin. The laminated surface of furniture can crack even when in contact with a hard object. If the edges of the parts are sealed with edging, the degree of damage and the chances of loss of attractiveness of the models are minimal;
3. Protecting human health. As already mentioned, the edge plays an important role in maintaining the health of household members. The longer the furniture is used, the higher the risk of formaldehyde resins escaping from the chipboard.

When choosing products for your home, you should pay attention to these subtleties. They will help maintain the attractiveness of the furniture and extend its safe use.

Kinds

In modern furniture production, manufacturers offer several edging options. This is convenient for increasing or decreasing the cost of custom-made furniture. In addition, when making products yourself, the question arises of what type of furniture edge to choose. In order not to get confused, it is necessary to understand in detail the features of each, highlighting their pros and cons.

Based on the information provided, we can conclude that ABS furniture edging is considered the most optimal for home use - it reliably protects the edges of products, preventing damage.

U-shaped

Melamine

Dimensions

To make edging on a countertop or cabinet look natural and attractive, it is best to have this process performed by professionals. Before choosing ready-made furniture or submitting your own products for edging, you need to not only decide on the type of edging, but also decide which size will be most suitable.

For each type of internal filling, it is necessary to use a different thickness of edge. So, for visible ends it is better to use a more reliable option.

Furniture edges are available in the following sizes:

1. Paper or melamine edge - the thickness options for such a device are 0.2 or 0.4 cm. Manufacturers see no point in making it thicker, otherwise it will look ugly on the furniture. Self-adhesive furniture edges deserve special attention. Such devices are sold by the meter, as well as in reels of 200 m. Width - 26 mm;
2. PVC – product thickness 0.4, 1 and 2 mm. Manufacturers often equip the front ends with thin options, and shelves and drawers with thick ones. The standard width is 26.5 mm, and reels are available in 150, 200 and 300 m;
3. ABS - the width of such an edge is from 19 to 22 mm. Thickness can be 0.4, 1, 2 and 3 mm. For reliability, it is recommended to treat the edges with the strongest edging of 3 mm;
4. Overlay U-shaped profile - available in widths of 16 or 18 mm for chipboard materials, thickness from 3 mm and above.

Before processing furniture, do not forget to measure the thickness of the material - for chipboard it is 16 mm, for countertops it will be 32 mm. Don’t forget that the main enemies of chipboard are fungus, mold and bacteria, so high-quality edging is considered a mandatory step.

PVC sizes

Melamine Edge Sizes

Criterias of choice

Furniture edging significantly improves the appearance of cabinets, drawers, tables, and any other cabinet furniture.

1. Today it is available in various colors, and choosing an option to match the shade of the furniture will not be difficult. To make the selection process easier, and the result to please the family for many years, pay attention to the following selection criteria:
2. Material – speaking of material, edgings can be divided into paper, plastic and rubber. The pros and cons of each of them have been described above. When choosing, you should pay attention to its compatibility with the material of production of the furniture itself;
3. Width - popular sizes vary between 22 and 38 mm, so before edging the product, it is worth choosing the optimal width - it should completely hide the edges of the product;
4. Thickness – today manufacturers use edges from 0.2 mm thick. It is necessary to take into account the purpose and storage conditions of the furniture in order to select the required thickness parameter;
5. Presence of an adhesive layer. This criterion is important for people who want to secure the edge to the product themselves. If the device does not have an adhesive layer, then you will not be able to make the edging yourself;
6. Type of fastening - there are rigid, overhead and mortise edges. Depending on the purpose, choose one of the options. The mortise type is also divided into T-shaped and U-shaped;

Surface type - edge coating can be glossy, matte, embossed or embossed. Take this criterion into account to improve the appearance of the furniture.

Having studied all the indicators of furniture edges, you can safely go for a new set of furniture. When purchasing, pay special attention to the quality of processing of the edges and end parts. It is worth additionally asking the seller about the method of fixing the edge. By purchasing furniture products with durable edges, you can ensure they have a long service life.

Self-adhesive furniture edge - a narrow strip of melamine, polyvinyl chloride, ABS plastic or other material. It protects and decorates the cut area. When producing cheap furniture from laminated chipboard, edging is simply necessary, as it protects people from exposure to harmful formaldehyde. In addition, it gives strength and protects the material from moisture getting inside.

Types of edges

The most popular types of furniture edges are:

• • Melamine edge with glue is the most budget-friendly, but not the highest quality type. It is afraid of moisture and can fall off over time (even without mechanical impact), easily crack and wear off at the corners. The only plus is the pre-applied layer of adhesive, so melamine edging remains a popular option at home.

When buying furniture, it is important to pay attention to the quality of finishing of the ends. It is better not to buy furniture treated with melamine, as it will not last long.

• • Furniture edging made of PVC 2 and 0.4 mm is the best option. It is much more stable and durable. A thickness of 0.4 mm is usually used to process hidden places, and 2 mm is glued to the outer ends that will be visible. However, its application requires a special edge processing machine, so it is used only in production.
  • The edge made of ABS plastic is a more environmentally friendly analogue of the previous option, which is less common on sale.
  • Mortise T-profile - inserted into a milled groove at the end of the chipboard. It was popular in those days when a special machine for PVC edges was rare, and there were plenty of milling machines in the shops.

• The C18 U-profile overlay is a good option because it can be used for chipboard at home. Usually the C18 U-profile is simply put on the end and glued to liquid nails. The downside is that the edges protrude a few millimeters, under which dirt gets clogged. On the other hand, this feature is very convenient if you cut chipboard with your own hands; large edges will hide uneven cuts and chips. This type is often used for.

For gluing on the machine, use a special hot melt adhesive for PVC edges. It is sold in granule form and becomes liquid when heated. The adhesive is applied to the tape either when heated or during the production of the tape.

Chipboard edges

To ensure that your countertop or cabinet edging is beautiful and durable, the best way is to have it edged in-house. This is usually done in the same place where laminated chipboards are purchased and ordered.

Approximate prices for application (per 1 linear meter including material):

• PVC edge 2 mm – 40 rub.;
• PVC edging 0.4 mm – 25 rubles;
• edge for melamine chipboard – 25 rubles;
• You will have to pay additionally for processing curved sections.

The most popular PVC edge in Russia is Rehau; it has a wide selection of colors, so you can choose a color to match any chipboard. The width of the tape varies - from 15 to 45 mm.


To order this service for a store, you must first prepare a diagram of how to glue the PVC edge: in what places to apply it and what thickness. Those places that will not wear out can be covered with 0.4 mm PVC to save money (for example, the back and bottom edges). All visible areas are treated with 2 mm PVC. Where the joint will be attached to the joint with another part, no processing is needed.

Let's give an example.

• On the internal inset shelf, only the front edge is treated with a layer of 2 mm.
• The top cover is on all sides (the back edge is 0.4 mm, the rest - 2 mm).
• The drawer front is processed on all sides with a thickness of 2 mm.

To simplify calculations, you can use special furniture programs; they create a project automatically. As a result, to assemble an average wardrobe, a PVC edge for chipboard will cost 1.5-2 thousand rubles. It won't be very cheap, but it will be of high quality, safe and durable.

Glue the edge yourself

For those who want to save money, there is a melamine edge with glue that is glued with an iron. This option is quite suitable for repairing old furniture - there is no need to carry several small boards to the workshop. To solve the question of how best to glue the edge to the tabletop, it is better not to be lazy and contact the manufacturer, or still use an overlay profile, since melamine will quickly deteriorate from moisture and abrasion.

An old Soviet iron or a hair dryer is best suited for gluing. The iron thermostat is set to approximately 2.5 position. In addition, you will need a rag, a knife, fine sandpaper and a stand for fixing the parts.

• • The part is fixed and the edge is cut off with a margin of a few centimeters. Then it is applied and carefully heated with an iron, in sections of about 40 cm. When it heats up well, the glue for the edge will melt and it will sag a little.

• • Immediately after this, you need to press the edge tape well with a rag. This is done quickly as it cools quickly.

• • When you're done gluing, you need to trim off the excess. First, cut off the end parts, and then those that go along. The knife must be held at an angle. In this case, the movement of the knife is directed towards the part, and not outward. For convenient work you will need a sharp knife without burrs. When cutting off the excess, be careful not to cut off the corners.

• For final finishing, go over the corners with sandpaper. For the edge to last longer, it should not cling when touched.

You can also remove old edge tape using an iron. To do this, it is heated and pryed with a spatula or knife.
In this video you can see how to glue a 2 mm edge at home:

To achieve a really good result, it is still better to order factory edging. The overpayment will not be too large, but the durability will increase significantly. Now on sale you can find almost any color of tape to imitate wood or a plain version.