Fastening OSB boards to walls inside the house. Technology of internal cladding with OSB sheets. How to properly lay OSB (OSB) on a wooden floor OSB sheathing vertically or horizontally

Fastening OSB boards to walls inside the house.  Technology of internal cladding with OSB sheets.  How to properly lay OSB (OSB) on a wooden floor OSB sheathing vertically or horizontally
Fastening OSB boards to walls inside the house. Technology of internal cladding with OSB sheets. How to properly lay OSB (OSB) on a wooden floor OSB sheathing vertically or horizontally

The subfloor is quick, high quality and inexpensive - this is exactly the combination that most builders and their clients are trying to achieve. The easiest way to create such a floor covering is from OSB boards. Laying technology depends on the type of base and additional requirements requirements for the finished floor.

OSB: composition and characteristics

OSB or OSB are oriented strand boards. In transliteration, OSP is often called OSB, but this is not entirely correct, since it contradicts the decoding, but is used everywhere.

The slabs are a composite of coarse wood chips and polymer binders. They are formed from several layers located perpendicular to each other. This design ensures the resistance of the sheets to twisting deformations and makes them resistant to tearing and delamination.

In terms of production technology, OSB is identical to chipboard with the difference that the first uses finely planed wood chips up to 4 mm thick and up to 25 cm long, while the second uses fine sawdust. Thermosetting resins (urea-formaldehyde, melamine, etc.) are added to the raw materials as binders. Typical sizes slabs:

  • height 2440 mm,
  • width - 1220 mm,
  • thickness – 6-38 mm

OSB is available in 4 varieties:

  • OSB-1 – thin boards used for the production of packaging, furniture blanks, construction of temporary structures, etc.
  • OSB-2 is standard sheets, which can be used in dry, ventilated areas. Application - for internal rough work (flooring, leveling walls, ceilings, forming utility boxes, etc.).
  • OSB-3 is a moisture-resistant material containing paraffin additives. Has increased resistance to high humidity, recommended for use both indoors and outdoors finishing works.

    Withstands high humidity both indoors and outdoors. When used in rooms such as bathrooms, bathhouses and others, it is recommended to use coating or floor waterproofing materials.

  • OSB-4 – durable high-density boards. This is a material for forming load-bearing structures.

It is impossible to say for sure which one is better or worse. It all depends on the destination. Leveling the base for laminate, linoleum, ceramic tiles and other types finishing materials carried out using OSB-3 sheets. Their advantages are that they perfectly withstand heavy loads (furniture, equipment) even when installed on joists, are resistant to changes in temperature and humidity, are easy to process, and installation can be done even by an inexperienced beginner.

In addition to the above advantages, OSB is heat insulating material with a slight noise reduction effect. That is why manufacturers of vinyl and carpets It is highly recommended to lay on concrete floor first warm base from solid wood materials, which is closed with a fine finish.

The thickness of the slabs used depends on the installation method. For a flat concrete base with a difference of no more than 2-4 mm for every 2 meters of area, it is reasonable to use panels of 10-12 mm. When laying a floor on joists with your own hands, installation of OSB with a cross-section of 18 mm or more is justified. Experts recommend laying sheets of 10-12 mm in 2 layers with overlapping seams. The result is a multi-layered “substrate” that guarantees increased strength and durability of the base.

We will consider OSB installation technology below.

Laying OSB on a wooden floor

We especially note that semi-dry coating cannot be used on wooden floors. cement-sand screed, lay GVL, asbestos-cement boards and other similar materials.

The fact is that the coefficients of thermal expansion and moisture absorption of these construction materials do not correspond to those of wood. There is a high risk that the base may begin to rot under the leveling layer, mold, etc.

To install OSB on a wooden floor, you will need the following tools:

  • electric planer for removing excessively protruding parts;
  • hammer or screwdriver;
  • electric drill;
  • hydraulic level;
  • nails or screws for wood;
  • tape measure and construction pencil;
  • hacksaw or jigsaw;

From building materials, you will additionally need a lath to form a lag 4x5cm, 3x4 cm, insulation (mineral wool, ecowool, expanded clay) or soundproofing material, as well as antiseptic and putty compounds for filling holes and potholes in the base.

Installation begins with preparing the wooden floor. The surface must be carefully inspected, protruding parts must be cut off, and holes and other defects must be filled with quick-drying repair compounds. This can be a special wood putty, blitz cement, or simply sawdust mixed with PVA glue.


Before laying OSB Skirting boards, nails and other irregularities are first removed from the subfloor

To protect against mold and bugs, the base must be covered with several layers of fire-retardant impregnation or primer with antiseptic additives. Ideally, you can also coat it with varnish, but rarely does this happen. Complete drying time is at least 3 days.

The next stage is the frame. The joists also require protection, so the beams are treated with bioprotective compounds, cut to the size of the room and mounted to the floor with self-tapping screws at a distance of 30-60 cm parallel to each other. The evenness is checked using a hydraulic level; thin dies can be placed under the slats for adjustment. Heat-insulating or noise-reducing material is placed in the gaps.

The final stage of the subfloor is attaching the OSB boards to the frame with your own hands using self-tapping screws or nails. The sheets are marked, appropriate cutting is carried out if necessary, and tightly fixed to the joists.

It is imperative to leave thermal compensation gaps between the wall and OSB sheets 2-5 mm wide. It is not necessary to leave a distance between adjacent slabs.


After finishing the work, you need to check the resulting base with a level. If there are uneven spots at the joints, they can be smoothed out with a grinder or simply sandpaper. Additionally, to ventilate the “pie”, it is recommended to drill several holes near the walls with a drill.

If you lay OSB on wooden base without lags, the floor must be fairly level, dry and durable. In this case, you can only get by with self-tapping screws and a screwdriver, and the leveling can be done in a day. The coating will be of adequate quality if the materials are fastened to each other not only around the perimeter, but also crosswise over the entire area of ​​the sheet.

Installation of OSB on a concrete floor

A subfloor made of oriented strand boards can only be formed on dry, “matured” concrete with a moisture content of no more than 6%. But even in this case it is recommended to use waterproofing film, membrane or coating composition. If you install OSB without this protection, then mold, fungi, and areas of rot may appear on the base due to excess moisture.

For laying sheets with your own hands directly on concrete base It is recommended to use panels with a thickness of 10-16 mm. Such leveling is allowed with differences of up to 2 mm per 2 m 2. This is enough to make the subfloor warm and smooth. Installation begins with laying the waterproofing substrate. The joints are fixed with adhesive tape. OSB sheets are placed on top and tightly secured with self-tapping screws. There should be a gap of 2-3 mm between the wall and the edge of the subfloor.


If installation is carried out on logs, then beams are first fixed on top of the film, heat or sound insulating material is installed in the gaps, then everything is covered with OSB sheets on top. Foam plastic, EPS and other types of insulation can be used as a thermal insulator.

To make a high-quality subfloor on joists or on a foundation, do not forget to constantly check the work done with a hydraulic level. This will minimize differences and correct errors in a timely manner.

Multifunctional, comfortable materials for many construction work, can be viewed in photos and videos, oriented strand boards are used. Simple technology manufacturing allows us to produce OSB for interior decoration four types of basic and three special types slabs
Flat fragments geometric shape Wood chips or shavings are glued layer by layer into sheets of products. Optimal quantity layers of shavings or chips range from three to four.
These boards are of a higher quality than conventional chipboards, or rather, they are modified, modern version. If funds allow, and technical problems require their use, then OSB is preferable to materials such as chipboard or plywood.

When considering qualifications and deciding how to decorate OSB walls, you should pay attention to the characteristics of the slabs.
So:

  • The first class includes OSB boards, characterized by application and use in an environment with low humidity.
  • The second type of materials is suitable for use as structural elements during construction in dry rooms.
  • The third type of qualification is used for the manufacture of structures in high humidity.
  • The fourth type of product is used for the installation of structures that can withstand significant mechanical loads in conditions with high humidity.

OSB boards are widely used in construction. The manufacturing technology eliminates internal defects characteristic of chipboard sheets (uneven filling or voids), which prevents OSB boards from shrinking or deforming.
So:

  • made of OSB will not only protect the house from dampness and insulate it, but will also minimize additional finishing work.
  • Moisture-resistant OSB board is used in the construction of frame-panel houses.
  • Its moisture resistance allows you to make reusable formwork from this material.
  • It is used as a base for external cladding walls and for interior work when decorating country houses, wooden houses from rounded logs, beams and cottages.
  • The installation of sheathing and rafters for the roof cannot be done without OSB slabs. They are able to work under significant load and withstand the weight of the roof itself, even from natural tiles, snow, wind.
  • Do you need to lay floors or level them? OSB board is used again, creating an even solid foundation under plank floorboards, coverings or carpets.
    Important point– adjustment of slab joints to a plane; they need to be leveled if necessary.

Attention: OSB boards from not all manufacturers can be used as underlying layers for floor coverings, and the panels are laid with the smooth side up immediately before flooring.

  • Additionally, there is no need to coat the slabs with protective varnish or paints, because they are sufficiently protected by special impregnation.
  • Processing a slab is no more difficult than processing wood; it holds nails and screws well. OSB boards are not susceptible to rotting and are not affected by fungus; in addition, they have good decorative qualities.
  • OSB panels are successfully used for furniture production, being an excellent substitute for solid wood natural wood, but the price of products made from OSB panels is much lower.
  • Enough light weight material is convenient for finishing or painting with your own hands and construction work

How to speed up the home finishing process

The desires of people who are engaged in the construction of their own, who can’t wait to move into their own corner, separate from their lovely neighbors, are understandable. A natural question arises: is it possible not to do the rough sheathing and start attaching finishing materials directly to the frame posts?
The instructions from specialists contain recommendations and an explanation of why this should not be done. To keep a house warm, it needs to be insulated.

The upper and lower slopes of the frame together with the skin form spatial rigidity, and they are mandatory elements in design frame houses. Without bevels, the frame retains its mobility even with sheathing, just as with bevels, but without sheathing, you can imagine the general picture of the consequences yourself, using your imagination.

Rough exterior wall cladding

There are quite a lot of materials used for rough cladding and there is plenty to choose from. Board, SML, TsSP and OSB boards.
All these surfaces require finishing, plaster with a layer of polystyrene foam or mesh. Some people advise leaving the boarding as a role. finishing, but then it is required additional processing wood, and also a device for wind-hydroprotection of the walls under the boards.

The area of ​​OSB sheets allows you to get a smaller number of joints than when working with other materials; OSB finishing is used with a thickness of 10-12 mm.
So:

  • OSB boards are attached to the posts in such a way that the joint is in the middle and there is a gap of 3-5 mm between them.
  • The bottom trim is completely covered with a sheet.
  • The top trim is tied to the number of storeys of the house. It is hidden entirely and the edge of the OSB board is aligned with the edge of the trim if the building has one floor.
    For a two-story building, the sheet is positioned so that it extends onto the racks of both floors, but top harness overlapped approximately the middle of the sheet. This is not a necessary condition, but when it is met, the structure acquires additional rigidity.

  • Finishing osb boards when attached to two-story house, it is better to do it as a whole sheet in order to move the joints beyond the opening posts to adjacent posts. The window opening is cut into the slab.
  • Convenient joining of slabs is achieved by making additional vertical or horizontal jumpers in the frame with the same cross-section as the racks.
  • Fastening is carried out with spiral nails, self-cuts 4.5 mm and 50 mm long, you can use combined fasteners with self-cuts and nails.

The main thing is to follow the basic rules for fastening work:

  • In intermediate areas, the finishing of osb boards is fixed after 30 cm.
  • The joining points of the plates are fixed after 15 cm.
  • The outer edge is stitched every 10 cm.

Attention: To avoid getting a slab cracked from diligent fastening, the distance from the edge of the product to the place of fixation is 8-10 mm.

  • A gap of 3-5 mm is left between the plates so that they do not warp and the fasteners are driven into the rack by 40-50 mm.
  • The vulnerable part of the OSB board or its “ Achilles' heel" is located at the ends. To protect them, expansion gaps of 1 cm are provided between the upper edge and the crown beam, the lower edge and the foundation wall, and between slabs where there is no tongue groove for connection of 0.3 cm.
    Used to treat dilatation gaps acrylic sealant, which should evenly fill all cavities.
  • The superdiffusion membrane, which has a vapor permeability property of 800 g/m² per day or more, in this design should perform the function of waterproofing and wind protection. The use of films, polyethylene, glassine is undesirable due to low vapor permeability, and excess moisture must erode.
    The placement of the superdiffusion membrane depends on the rough lining of the materials and the final finishing of the products. The membrane is attached tightly to the frame posts on the insulation.
    The sheathing is being installed wooden slats 20x50 or 30x50 mm, it allows you to get the required gap, then it is done OSB finishing slabs, DSP, SML or board.
  • The vapor barrier of the walls is carried out with a film from the inside of the room, located close to the insulation, and secured with a construction stapler. The joining is done with an overlap of 10-15 cm and the joints are taped.
    It is not ordinary construction tape that is used, but a special double-sided adhesive tape for vapor barrier.
  • Vapor barrier can also be made with foamed, foil-coated polyethylene, which does not thicken the main thermal insulation of the wall.

Interior decoration

How to finish the slab, they decided to give preference to plasterboard when lining the internal walls of the house. The OSB slab wins the dispute.
It is difficult to keep the frame racks in a perfectly even condition when working, and drywall, like more soft material, in comparison with the OSB board, it accepts these irregularities and, in order to subsequently obtain an ideal surface, it is necessary to apply more layers for leveling. The structure of the OSB board is much more rigid and allows you to somewhat smooth out the flaws.
Next comes the finishing touches.

Roofing work with OSB-3 boards

The most common way to use this material is in roofing works. Optimal thickness 18 mm for covering the roof with OSB-3 boards.

So:

  • Products can have either a smooth or interlocking edge, which is preferable.
  • Distance between load-bearing beams should not be more than 610 mm, both when creating flat and sloping roofs.
  • What matters is the possibility of expanding the slabs, so gaps are left at one linear meter no more than 2 mm.
  • When laying slabs with smooth edges, 3 mm gaps are provided around the perimeter of each slab.
  • Fastening is carried out with nails to the supporting supports with a distance between them of 100 mm or more.
  • The finishing of OSB slabs is secured with nails, the length of which should be 2.5 times the thickness of the slab or slightly more.

Requirements regarding the use of products on water based. A slab made of polished panels looks better when appearance plays a prominent role in the interior.
Manufacturers recommend not to use wallpaper or ceramic tiles for their finishing.

(OSB, OSB) – this is installation various designs premises - finishing of walls, floors, roof. Fastening the panels has its own characteristics, thanks to which the cladding will be durable and of high quality. First of all, it is necessary to determine the fastening elements (hardware), which play a dominant role in the reliability of wall cladding with OSB panels.

Fastening tools

The selection of elements for fastening OSB boards is carried out based on the weight of the panel and its location:

  • for finishing - fastening elements, in in this case, combined with an adhesive, and also select those that will not need to be removed, where their masking is necessary;
  • without a cap (round) - used for arranging floor coverings, as well as for installing structures with frame base and for fastening slabs with a shunt connection;
  • with a cap - used when masking of the fastener is required;
  • Other fasteners are used a little less frequently, for example, nails with a special ring or screw thread - they hold the panel well, but are difficult to remove if dismantling is necessary;
  • one of the best is considered to be covering OSB boards with screws, which are used when working with wooden products, they need less in comparison with other parts for fastening, but at the same time they show high reliability of retention.

Features of the plating process

Installation of OSB panels on the wall is carried out using two methods - horizontal and vertical. At the same time, when covering wall surfaces Where the openings - window and door - pass, a gap of 3 mm should be left.

It is also necessary to take into account the distance between supporting elements walls. Often they are no more than 40-60 cm - in this case they are used with a thickness of up to 1.2 cm.

When additional thermal insulation is required between the wall and the slab, preference is given to mineral wool and of course it is carried out before fixing the OSB boards.

If spiral nails or ring-type nails were chosen for covering wood panel panels, then they should be fastened every 30 cm, using intermediate supports. Where the slabs are connected, nails are placed every 15 cm. Along the edges they are driven in every 10 cm, but make sure that the driving step does not exceed 1 cm from the edge of the slab.

It is also very important to observe dilatation gaps:

  • from the top edge of the panel to the crown beam - 1 cm;
  • from the bottom edge of the panel to the fundamental surface – 1 cm;
  • from a panel that does not have a ridge connecting groove - 0.3 cm.

Finishing

Finishing OSB with wall slabs has gained popularity due to the relatively low cost of this material among other similar ones. In addition, the ease with which the panels accept finishing, further determines their use for repair and finishing work.

The wood-based material itself is made from wood chips and binder resins, and is water-resistant. The pressing of chips is carried out on special equipment, and in order for the material to be strong, the method of arranging the layers perpendicular to each other is used.

Finishing methods and preparation of slabs

For interior finishing work, I often choose a panel specially designed for this type of work - OSB-3. The panels can be varnished or painted, taking into account the preparation of the surface of the slab for one or another type of finishing. If the surface of the panel was initially coated with a paraffin or wax substance to improve its waterproof qualities, then additional treatment will be required, otherwise the paint will simply run off.

The panels are processed before installing them on the walls. To do this, do:

  • Leveling - grinding surface layer, to remove the external processing of the slab and remove all irregularities and defects. This process can be done manually, with sandpaper or using a special tool.
  • Edge treatment - this must be done to prevent dyes or varnish from being absorbed into its porous structure. The untreated edge often absorbs the most paint. The corners should also be slightly rounded to prevent liquids from spreading.
  • Seam finishing – this stage is also of no small importance, so it is worth treating the gaps between the panels with sealant (acrylic). But silicone-based filler should not be used; paint does not adhere well to it. Also, after installation, they are manually applied to the joints. decorative panels for camouflage.
  • Prime the surface – before painting, a primer is always used to ensure better and even application of paint or varnish to the surface. This also allows you to save on consumables. coloring matter. For processing OSB panels, gypsum and acrylic primers, but water-containing ones should not be used, as the plate may warp.

The paint for OSB boards is selected according to the type of chips that were used to produce the panels. You can also stick wallpaper onto the surface of this material, and the processing will be the same as in the case of painting, but more attention should be paid to sanding.

OSB boards are easy to process, easy to install on walls and are not expensive. All these qualities ensure the great popularity of this material in construction.

OSB (OSB) or OSB (oriented strand board) - modern construction material, which has become a serious alternative to plywood, chipboard and has found wide application in the construction of frame houses and finishing of buildings and structures. OSB boards are used to cover interior and exterior walls, floors and roofs. Wall cladding with OSB boards takes place in frame construction, when the slab acts as a structural material and serves to strengthen the walls of a building, or when it acts as a facade material for concrete, brick or wooden houses, which is caused by the low price and high strength and durability of the material. In this article we will look at the question: how to attach OSB boards to the wall from the outside.

For cladding external walls, it is necessary to use OSB-3 boards, specially made for environments with high humidity.

When installing OSB boards to external walls, sheathing is used for the following purposes:

  • leveling the wall plane;
  • creating a ventilation gap for insulation under the OSB board;
  • preventing slab deformation caused by base movements, especially important for OSB slabs with a thickness of 9 mm or less.

Fastening OSB boards to the wall over insulation using lathing

Fastening the slab to the wall is carried out using lathing, which is made from wooden block, or metal profile. Technologies for installing OSB boards on a wall with wooden sheathing and metal profile sheathing are not fundamentally different. When choosing a block, it is advisable to choose a dry, planed block of 40-50 mm, then it will not twist or move after drying, which will have a positive effect on the evenness of the entire wall.

To attach the bar and profile to the wall, use special metal plates(suspensions). Before attaching the hangers, it is necessary to draw vertical stripes on the wall, the distance between which should be half the width of the sheet, which will subsequently ensure the joint of the slabs right in the middle of the bar or profile and will make it possible to fix the OSB slab in the center along its entire length. After the lines are drawn, hangers are attached along them in increments of 30-40 cm.

A metal hanger is used to secure the sheathing.

Suspensions are attached along the marked lines. Hangers allow you to secure the sheathing over the insulation.

After this, the insulation is laid and covered with a membrane that protects the insulation from moisture, after which the sheathing is installed.

It should be noted that a vapor barrier is not needed outside the building, since it prevents moist air from entering the insulation from inside the room, and outside structure, excess moisture should freely escape outside.


Wall with sheathing. Insulation is laid between the sheathing and the wall.

After fixing the sheathing, you can begin OSB installation slabs For wall cladding, a slab with a thickness of 9 to 12 mm is most often used. If a facade is not mounted on top of the slab, then the slab must be moisture resistant. To the sheathing from wooden beam OSB boards are fastened with nails at least 2.5 times the thickness of the OSB sheet. For metal profile sheathing - use metal screws 10-15 mm longer than the thickness of the OSB sheet.

With this installation, the sheathing weighs above the insulation and does not create cold bridges in the insulation between the wall and the OSB boards. Thanks to this solution, it is achieved maximum efficiency insulation work. In addition, between the beams of the sheathing there is air gap, through which moisture is removed from the insulation, which also improves its performance. More detailed information about the technology of ventilated facades is in the article: ventilated facades, types of ventilated facades.

Fastening OSB boards to a wooden frame

When building frame houses with wooden frame Two main approaches are used: attaching OSB sheets to the frame through the sheathing and attaching OSB sheets directly to the frame without sheathing. Let's consider the case of fastening OSB boards using sheathing.

When with inside strong slabs are attached to the walls to the frame, ensuring good rigidity of the wall structure, then a sheathing can be made on the outside between the frame and the OSB board. The sheathing forms air cavities for ventilation of the insulation and reduces the deformation loads from the frame to the OSB board.

Insulation is placed between the frame posts. A wind and waterproofing membrane is attached over the studs and insulation, which easily allows moisture to pass through. Next, the sheathing and OSB boards are attached to it.


Installation of OSB boards on a wooden frame with sheathing.

With this design, the slabs can be left without finishing; you can paint them, plaster them, or attach almost any material to them. facade material.

When fastening OSB boards without using sheathing, maximum rigidity of the wall structure is achieved. In this case, it is recommended to attach the wind and waterproof membrane behind the OSB board, then install the sheathing to create a ventilation gap and install facade material on it, such as siding, boards or decorative panels. OSB boards are attached to a wooden frame with nails at least 2.5 times longer than the thickness of the OSB sheet.

The advantage of using nails over self-tapping screws when fastening OSB on the outside of a house is justified by the fact that nails better tolerate deformation of OSB sheets under atmospheric influences.


Technology for fastening OSB sheets to a wooden frame without the use of sheathing.

Fastening OSB boards to a metal frame

Fastening is carried out similarly to the option with a wooden frame. When attaching slabs directly to metal frame use metal screws 10-15 mm longer than the thickness of the OSB sheet.

General rules for installing OSB boards to the wall

Regardless of the chosen method of fastening OSB sheets, there is general rules, compliance with which will ensure maximum strength, reliability and durability of the cladding structure.

  • Self-tapping screws should be screwed in at a distance of 10-15 cm from each other and at least 1 cm from the edge of the slab.
  • A 10 mm gap is required between the bottom slab and the foundation to prevent water accumulation.
  • The slabs cannot be joined closely to each other; a gap of 2-3 mm is required between them so that the slab can expand freely due to changes in humidity.
  • All door and window openings are cut with a jigsaw or circular saw, but if you need perfectly even joints and cuts, then you can ready-made sizes and OSB sheets arrive at furniture workshop, where for a small fee they will cut your sheets on a sawing machine evenly and precisely to size.

Applicable laying OSB on a wooden floor during renovation flooring from tongue and groove, to reinforce the subfloor or to provide a continuous layer when laying small-format cladding (for example, tiles, PVC tiles, parquet).

Although the quality of oriented strand board is superior chipboard characteristics, this construction material is not suitable as a finishing floor covering:


Therefore, OSB is used more often as a subfloor:


In this case, you need to know how to properly attach OSB sheets to floorboards/joists and use offset seams in adjacent rows.

There are several types of oriented strand boards:

  • OSB-2 – only for dry rooms;
  • OSB-3 – can be used in rooms with high humidity;
  • OSB-4 – for load-bearing structures.

Important! Since the subfloor has low maintainability, it is prohibited to use OSB-2 in it. The slabs are additionally treated with an antiseptic and waterproofing material.

The main characteristics of oriented strand boards are:

  • density – 630 kg/m³;
  • thermal conductivity – 0.13 W/m*K;
  • linear expansion – 0.15% at a humidity of 70%;
  • straightness – 0.6 mm/m;
  • the perpendicularity of the opposite sides of the sheet is within 3 mm;
  • thickness deviation – 0.3 – 0.8 mm (ground, untreated, respectively).

Advice! Manufacturers produce slabs different sizes, which must be taken into account when purchasing in order to reduce cutting waste for specific dimensions and room configurations.

Installation technology

To lay it down correctly sheet material over an existing plank floor, the following conditions must be met:


Important! When laying parquet, PVC tiles, other small format claddings, the screw heads must be puttied.

Depending on the type of finishing floor covering, OSB boards are oriented towards wooden floor not the same:

  • for small format decorative materials It should be ensured that the seams of tiles and PVC tiles do not coincide with the joints of OSB boards;
  • when choosing laminate, tongue and groove, decking or parquet board It is better to lay the rows of OSB across the direction of the long facings of the finishing layer or at an angle of 45 degrees for a diagonal layout (relevant in rooms with defects in the geometry of the walls).

Advice! On OSB it is allowed to apply a screed made of DSP or self-leveling floor. However, the surface of the oriented strand board must be pre-treated with a waterproofing material to avoid leaks in ground floor and swelling of the structural material itself.

Finish flooring repair

The main problem with plank flooring is a floorboard or several boards, which develop a transverse “hump” during periodic changes in humidity or during the drying process. This leads to an increase in the repair budget:


In other words, OSB with a thickness of 22 mm or more should be used. This problem can be solved by preliminary grinding or scraping of the base:

  • a grinder or sander will smooth out the “waves”;
  • the contact area of ​​the subfloor layers will sharply increase;
  • You can get by with oriented strand boards of smaller thickness.

However, this is not always possible when the existing floor covering is thin.

OSB subfloor top layer

  • provide level base for flooring;
  • increase spatial rigidity and strength of the base;
  • reduce labor and material consumption of work.

Unlike floorboards, self-tapping screws are screwed into OSB boards strictly vertically. When the hardware is tilted, a change in geometry and warping of the material over time may occur.

The main problems arise when opposite walls diverge (trapezoid instead rectangular shape premises). In this case, it is necessary to mark the existing wooden floor in order to trim only the slabs of the first row:


Thus, structural OSB material Suitable both for creating the top layer of a subfloor and for repairing a finished floor covering made of tongue-and-groove boards if dismantling this cladding for some reason is not practical in the room. When choosing an oriented strand board, the labor intensity of the work is reduced, House master makes do with the existing arsenal of tools.

Advice! If you need repairmen, there is a very convenient service for selecting them. Just submit in the form below detailed description work that needs to be done and you will receive offers by email with prices from construction crews and companies. You can see reviews about each of them and photographs with examples of work. It's FREE and there's no obligation.