Attaching a perforated corner to an external corner – Blog Stroyremontiruy. Features of external and internal corners for siding Options for using corner profiles for finishing corners

Attaching a perforated corner to an external corner – Blog Stroyremontiruy. Features of external and internal corners for siding Options for using corner profiles for finishing corners
Attaching a perforated corner to an external corner – Blog Stroyremontiruy. Features of external and internal corners for siding Options for using corner profiles for finishing corners
20.06.2020

How to glue an arched corner with your own hands

The topic of today's article is the arched corner. We will talk about the types, purposes and methods of attaching this finishing element.

First, let's define the terminology: which ones are called arched and what is their difference. In general, such angles are used to design curved structures made of various types of finishing and building materials.

The main purpose of these elements is to protect the decorative coating of corners. They prevent paint, wallpaper, etc. from falling off and abrading. These corners also seem to highlight the shape of the structures on which they are attached. For example, arches (see), plasterboard niches, figured ceilings.

Decorative

Arched element PVC

So:

  • The decorative element has a different width on each side. For example, 20x10mm or 20x5mm. From the very name of this angle it is clear that it serves to decorate arches and highlight them against the background of the overall interior of the room.
  • In addition to its design function, this type of finishing allows you to hide small irregularities in arched openings. This is especially true when the arches are made with your own hands. For example, from plasterboard (see).
  • And, of course, such decor protects the finishing coating of the walls from various types of influences: wallpaper from abrasion, putty and high-pressure paint from delamination and chipping from the surface of the corners.
  • Decorative corners are produced with a length of 2 meters 70 centimeters. They have different colors: white, wood-like (repeating its structure), colored.
  • The main material for production is polyvinyl chloride. It is the PVC arched corner that has become most widespread among finishers. You can also find cork corners for arches on sale in stores.

Perforated plastic element, photo

Plastering

So:

  • This type of finishing auxiliary materials has perforations (holes) throughout its entire surface. One side has petals (like cuts). Thanks to this design, they bend perfectly.
  • Basically, the perforated arched element under consideration is used to give a smooth edge to curved structures. For example, when installing plasterboard arches, figured suspended ceilings, elegant partitions. It will not be difficult to bend it, because it is very flexible.
  • Corners for plaster are made of plastic. The most common length is 3 meters.

Fastening

Fastening decorative elements

If you decide not to install an interior door and make a semicircular opening (see), then you need to “ennoble” it - attach an arched decorative corner along the entire contour.

There are several ways to do this:

  • Glue it with glue.
  • Secure with self-tapping screws.
  • Pin with nails without heads.

Let's look at each of these methods in more detail. Most often, PVC elements are glued to the wall using glue. For example, for liquid nails or Titanium.

You should know! No need to use liquid nails for heavy structures! They may contain solvents that can corrode plastic. The best option is Express Decor class glue.

Before you start gluing the corners onto the surface, it should be prepared:

You should know! Do not under any circumstances stick plastic corners onto wallpaper. Even if the latter are firmly attached to the wall.

  • All loose materials must be removed.
  • If you already have wallpaper glued, then remove it from the place where the corner will be glued as follows: attach it tightly to the “native” place and mark its edge on both sides with a pencil. Then remove and carefully use a sharp utility knife to trim and remove the wallpaper.

Now you can start gluing. If you decide to use liquid nails, it is better to take them in a tube (under a gun). It will be more convenient to apply glue from such packaging. Also buy the gun itself.

Apply a small layer of glue along the entire length and attach to the wall. Move the corner a little so that the glue is distributed over the surface. Then remove the corner and wait about five minutes. After this, press the element tightly again and secure it to the wall with masking tape.

A fastening angle (KU/KUU) is a curved metal structure that serves as the basis for reliable fastening or connecting parts to each other. In construction, it is most often used to fix wooden beams of various diameters to each other or to other material that will become the support or frame of a future building. Using a corner, the required angle is created between two supports, and the part itself serves as a connecting element.

1

The mounting angle is cast from durable, galvanized steel material by hot metal stamping (grade 08PS, GOST 14918-80). Along the entire surface there are uniform, perforated holes for various fasteners, such as screws, self-tapping screws, bolts of various diameters, etc. Fastening angles for construction vary in size, shape and area of ​​application. Regardless of the type and shape, this fastener has a number of advantages, namely:

  • Versatility. There is no need to use special tools or complex binding materials for work. It is enough just to select reliable screws or other screw-type fasteners with or without nuts and washers.
  • Reliability. Due to the precise angle at the junction of two bars or other parts, the design has a high degree of reliability, while the reinforced metal corner is not subject to corrosion, since it is made of stainless steel using a special stamping method.
  • A wide selection of sizes and shapes, due to which you can choose reliable fastening angles for any type of timber or other building material.

Mounting angles made of galvanized steel material

Reinforced or regular steel angles are used in various branches of construction, as the main fastening element for beams, beams, supports or wooden columns in the construction of residential buildings, boiler rooms, commercial and industrial premises. In addition to corners, special metal supports, holders, connecting plates, backlashes, etc. are also used to fasten timber and wooden structures in construction.

2

All steel fasteners that are used to connect two or more structural parts together come in two types:

  • All metal. The most common types of corners, holders and plates, which are used to fasten timber of standard sizes and sections.
  • Separate type. Prefabricated structures, which are usually used to support, fasten or connect non-standard types of timber or beams. In terms of reliability and rigidity, such parts are inferior to solid structures, so before using them, various structural rigidity parameters are additionally calculated.

All metal fastener

In addition to differences in type of production and assembly, corners vary in size and shape, as well as in thickness, which, depending on the type and manufacturer, varies from 2 to 3.5 millimeters. The most common types in construction are:

  • Reinforced mounting bracket (KUU). It has one or more special stiffeners, which allows it to be used when connecting large-section timber and beams with other materials (brick, aerated concrete, metal) to ensure high reliability and rigidity of the structure.
  • Standard, equilateral, reinforced (KU-R). It is a flat metal plate bent at an angle of 90 degrees with uniform perforated holes on both sides. Used for fastening predominantly wooden parts to each other in places where there is no high deflection load. There are equilateral narrow and wide parts of this type.
  • Anchor type (KUA). a special shape, reinforced or regular, which is distinguished by a disproportionate length-width-height indicator, where the first two values ​​are equal, and the height comes in several types (usually 80, 120 or 200 millimeters).
  • Asymmetrical (KUAS). Most often used to create a right angle to a plane, the properties and diameter of the perforation of the holes are similar to an anchor-type angle, but they differ in width.
  • 135 degree angle (KUS). A fastener for creating a reliable connection of timber at a given angle. As a rule, it is used in the construction of roofs and canopies for fastening wooden rafters together.
  • Z-shaped. A reinforced part of a narrow specification, designed for fastening building materials located in two different planes relative to each other, that is, in parallel. In addition, it is used to connect load-bearing structures or to secure timber of non-standard sizes.

3

As a rule, corners should be purchased in bulk, several pieces of the same or different types, in this case the retail price of the product will be significantly lower. Standard reinforced ones cost between 15-25 rubles apiece in various construction stores and online sites.

Standard mounting angle 70x70x55

To securely fasten the corner with your own hands, you also need to choose the right screws or self-tapping screws. We recommend using steel screws for perforated holes of various thicknesses. You should not use nails, as over time their fastening properties weaken due to corrosion. If you use a reinforced fastening angle to fasten timber in places with high further loads, it is better to choose long self-tapping screws with several types of threads and reliable fixation.

The optimal thickness of the corner is 2.5 mm for a reinforced part and 2 mm for a regular or steel plate. And you should definitely pay attention to the manufacturer. Low-quality parts can quickly rust and lose their properties, while weakening the main structural elements.

External corners must be aligned and strengthened during the repair process, for which it is necessary to use a perforated corner of various sections. Today we will talk about attaching a painting perforated corner to an external plaster or plasterboard corner, and also clarify the stages of work and the materials necessary for this.

Materials and tools

The corner has a central stiffening rib and side strips with perforations, which help the element to be securely fixed on the edges of the outer corner. You can attach the corner to gypsum plaster or starting putty; as a rule, a putty mixture is used for fixing to drywall, and a gypsum plaster composition is used for fixing to plaster. External corners are not only vertical corners at the junction of two walls, but also sections of plasterboard ceiling structures, as well as window and door slopes.

Instructions

To work, in addition to the corner and material, you will need metal scissors, a spatula and a level. First, the perforated element is cut at an acute angle from the edges with scissors, then a small amount of Rotband or “Start” putty is mixed in and installation begins.

When fixing to a gypsum plasterboard corner, a minimal amount of putty is required; it is applied with a spatula along the edges of the outer corner, the corner is applied to the base and pressed tightly. The remaining mixture that has made its way through the perforation is removed. In this case, you can do without a level, because the gypsum boards are attached evenly and there is no point in doing the same job twice. With perfectly even corners of gypsum plasterboard structures, the corner is fixed with a stapler.

When attaching a corner to plaster, most often the corner needs to be trimmed, so the gypsum mixture is applied with thicker strokes, the corner is applied without pressing and only then pressed with a level until it is completely leveled vertically. Since in some places of the outer corner the corner protrudes above the surface of the side walls by 3–4, and sometimes by 5–7 mm, then after fixing the pit element on the wall, it is necessary to cover it with a plaster mixture using a 40 cm wide spatula.

Putty and plaster for attaching the corner should be mixed only in a plastic bucket, first pouring water into it and then adding the dry mixture and kneading it with a mixer. The consistency of the mixture ranges from “thick sour cream” for gypsum plasterboard and gypsum board to liquid plasticine for plaster corners with large differences.

Conclusion

In conclusion, we note that in addition to painting corners, there are plaster corners, which, instead of perforations, have a rigid mesh on the sides; they are used only in plastering work, being fixed directly into the body of the mortar at the corner and plastic elements for curved corners.

Below you can watch a video on attaching a perforated corner.

The topic of today's article is the arched corner. We will talk about the types, purposes and methods of attaching this finishing element.

First, let's define the terminology: which corners are called arched and what is their difference. In general, such angles are used to design curved structures made of various types of finishing and building materials.

The main purpose of these elements is to protect the decorative coating of corners. They prevent paint, wallpaper, etc. from falling off and abrading. These corners also seem to highlight the shape of the structures on which they are attached. For example, arches, plasterboard niches, figured ceilings.

Types and purpose of arched corners

Decorative corners

Plaster arched corners

  • This type of finishing auxiliary materials has perforations (holes) throughout its entire surface. One side of these corners has petals (similar to cuts). Thanks to this design, they bend perfectly.
  • Basically, a perforated arched corner is used to give a smooth edge to curved structures. For example, when installing plasterboard arches, figured suspended ceilings, elegant partitions.
  • Corners for plaster are made of plastic. The most common length is 3 meters.

Fastening arched corners

Fastening decorative arched corners

If you decide not to install an interior door and make a semicircular opening (see Arched openings), then you need to “ennoble” it - attach an arched decorative corner along the entire contour.

There are several ways to do this:

  • Glue it with glue.
  • Secure with self-tapping screws.
  • Pin with nails without heads.

Let's look at each of these methods in more detail.

Most often, PVC corners are glued to the wall using glue. For example, for liquid nails or Titanium.

You should know! No need to use liquid nails for heavy structures! They may contain solvents that can corrode plastic. The best option is Express Decor class glue.

Before you start gluing the corners onto the surface, it should be prepared:

You should know! Do not under any circumstances stick plastic corners onto wallpaper. Even if the latter are firmly attached to the wall.

  • All loose materials must be removed.
  • If you already have wallpaper glued, then remove it from the place where the corner will be glued as follows: attach the PVC arched corner tightly to the “native” place and mark its edge on both sides with a pencil. Then remove the corner and carefully use a sharp utility knife to trim and remove the wallpaper.

Now you can start gluing. If you decide to use liquid nails, it is better to take them in a tube (under a gun). It will be more convenient to apply glue from such packaging. Also buy the gun itself.

Apply a small layer of glue along the entire length to the corner and attach it to the wall. Move the corner a little so that the glue is distributed over the surface. Then remove the corner and wait about five minutes.

After this, press the corner tightly again and secure it to the wall with masking tape.

You should know! For white corners, buy white glue, and for colored corners, buy colorless glue.

How to glue a cork arched corner: Follow all the surface treatment steps described above. You need to use a special glue - contact glue, for products made of cork.

Fastening arched corners to nails and furniture staples has a number of disadvantages:

  • Aesthetics are lost, since fasteners will be visible.
  • At the moment of tightening the screws (shooting the staples) cracks may appear on the surface of the corner.
  • If you tighten the fasteners, then the corner may bend.

Fastening perforated arched corners

Fastening the perforated corner includes the following procedure:

  • Should press the corner tightly to the surface and shoot it with staples using a construction stapler on both sides.
  • Next, a solution of gypsum plaster (or base putty) is prepared and applied with a spatula to the corner. In this case, you need to press the plaster more firmly.
  • Immediately after applying the plaster mortar it is necessary remove excess.
  • After the plaster has dried, sand it with a special mesh or sandpaper.

You should know! It would be optimal to use gypsum-based plaster “VOLMA-Layer”. It is very elastic and easily rubbed after drying. It is also possible to use ready-made putty with an application thickness of 3mm or more.

Since the arched perforated corner is flexible, it will perfectly hide all the design flaws of any form of curvature.

All the steps described above will help you secure the arched corners yourself.

If you still have questions on this topic, then you can watch a video about fastening corners for arches, as well as read other articles.

Now we will look at a fairly simple screed - a furniture corner. They are produced in quite a lot of varieties, differing in appearance, number of screws and material (plastic, metal), but the concept is always the same: a corner fixed with self-tapping screws.

Let's look at the installation process using the example of a plastic corner with a removable lid. It seemed like there was nothing to discuss here - screw in the screws and it will hold! But no!!! Even here there is a trick. If you screw the corner incorrectly, it will not tighten anything and a gap will form between the parts.

The first step is to determine the size from the edge to the center of the hole (this size is individual for each corner). For the corners in question (with a removable cover) 15 mm.

Now we determine the location of the parts to be tightened: one of them necessarily rests on the second.

We need a part number 2. We set aside all such parts separately and proceed to marking (for this it is convenient to use a carpenter’s square.

Marked pencil marks are easily smeared, so it is advisable to immediately deepen them with an awl or (as I have been doing lately - with a dowel, hitting it with a hammer). It is necessary to postpone not 15 mm, but 16!!!(It will become clear why later.

We place a corner opposite the hole and screw a self-tapping screw into it - the self-tapping screw is screwed into the hole marked with an awl much better. The edge of the corner installed in this way does not adjoin the edge of the part, but is 1 mm away from it.

Now, when we attract the second part, this millimeter will be closed by a deformable corner (and plastic is still a fairly plastic material), but the tension of the material will allow us to pull the parts together without gaps.

We have looked at the main ties with which furniture is assembled; now we will move on to consider the simplest, but extremely common modules. Let's start with the drawer.