In buildings with stove heating, such as a private house, a bathhouse and others, the construction of a chimney and the organization of its outlet to the outside are required. When arranging the passage of a pipe through the roof, it is necessary to comply with certain standards in order to ensure safety and maintain the protective properties of the roof.

Chimney passage through the roof

The chimney is designed to remove fuel combustion products (coal, gas, firewood, peat) and form stove draft. The method of exiting the pipe through the roof is determined at the design stage. The main condition for this is to ensure the fire safety of the roof, especially at its junction with the pipe, as well as to protect the joint from the ingress of atmospheric moisture and the accumulation of condensate. The height of the pipe is determined by SNiP standards and depends on the distance at which it is located from the roof ridge:

• if the distance from the center of the pipe to the ridge is no more than 1500 mm, then the height of the pipe above the ridge should be no less than 500 mm;
• when the distance between the center of the chimney and the roof ridge is from 1500 to 3000 mm, the height of the pipe coincides with the height of the ridge;
• if the distance exceeds 3000 mm, the height of the chimney must be no lower than a line drawn from the ridge at an angle of 10°.

The height of the chimney pipe is determined by SNiP standards and depends on the distance to the roof ridge

The shorter the distance from the pipe to the ridge, the greater the height of the pipe should be.

Chimney passage unit

This element can be located in different places on the roof. One of the preferred options by roofers is to pass the chimney directly through the ridge. This method is characterized by the easiest installation and avoids the accumulation of snow above the pipe wall. The disadvantage of this arrangement is that it reduces the strength of the rafter system, in which the ridge beam is either absent or sawn and secured with two supports on the sides of the pipe outlet, which is not always possible to implement.

The chimney outlet through the ridge is simple to install, but can compromise the strength of the rafter system

Most often, the pipe is located near the ridge. This way the chimney is least exposed to cold, and therefore to condensation accumulation inside. The disadvantage of this arrangement is that the closer the pipe is to the ridge, the greater its height, which means that construction will require additional funds.

Exiting the chimney at a short distance from the ridge is the most common and convenient option.

It is not recommended to route the chimney through the valley, as snow can accumulate in these places, which will lead to a violation of the waterproofing and the occurrence of leaks. In addition, it is difficult to organize a chimney duct at the junction of the slopes. You should not place the chimney at the bottom of the slope - it can be damaged by snow coming off the roof.

The material from which the pipe is made also affects the organization of its outlet system. Typically, pipes are made of metal, asbestos cement or fire bricks, but sometimes ceramic ones are also found. The methods of waterproofing them will be different. In addition, each type of fuel has a certain combustion temperature, and this must also be taken into account when constructing a chimney.

Depending on the shape of the chimney pipe, the outlet hole can be square, round, oval or rectangular. To protect the roof covering from high temperatures and protect it from fire, a box is installed around the chimney. This happens as follows:

1. Additional rafters are installed to the right and left of the pipe.
2. Horizontal beams are laid at the bottom and top at the same distance and of a similar cross-section. The distance between the box beams and the pipe walls is determined by SNiP and is 140–250 mm.
3. Inside the box is filled with non-flammable insulating material, for example, stone or basalt wool. It is not recommended to use fiberglass due to its high flammability.

The space of the box should not be filled with fiberglass - it can ignite under the influence of high temperatures

It is necessary to take into account that the construction of the box may disrupt the ventilation of the under-roof space, so additional ventilation systems can be installed.

Video: installation features of the chimney passage unit

Features of chimney outlet through different types of roofing

When arranging the passage of a chimney pipe, you need to pay attention to protection from precipitation that will flow down the pipe and roof. To moisture-proof the connection between the pipe and the roof, a protective apron is installed around the chimney. This technology is similar for roofs with different coatings.

Metal tile covering

Metal tiles are a popular roofing material consisting of thin steel, aluminum or copper sheets coated with a protective layer.

Output of a square or rectangular pipe

If the pipe is made of brick and has a square or rectangular cross-section, you can use the materials included with the coating to pass it through the metal tile roof. Since brick chimneys can have non-standard dimensions, before removal, part of the covering sheets is removed or a hole of a larger area is cut out.

To waterproof the joint, special elastic tapes with an adhesive layer applied to one side are used. One edge of the tape is glued to the base of the pipe, the other to the roof sheathing. The edge is fixed at the top with a metal strip, which is attached to the pipe wall with heat-resistant dowels. All joints are coated with sealant.

To reduce the likelihood of water flowing down the chimney wall, you can make a recess under the bar - a groove

You can make an apron for a square or rectangular pipe with your own hands. It is made from a smooth metal sheet of the same color as the main coating. The upper edge of the apron is tucked under the row of metal tiles located above so that water flowing from above does not fall under it. If the pipe is located close to the ridge, the edge of the apron can be tucked under the ridge or bent to the other side. To protect the passage opening from precipitation, a tie is installed under the apron.

It is better to organize the outlet of the chimney before laying the metal tile covering.

Conducting a round pipe

When leading a round chimney or sandwich pipe through a metal tile roof, roof penetrations are most often used, connected to a cap through which the pipe is routed. A neat round hole is cut in the coating according to the size of the chimney, a universal glass or master flush is placed on the pipe, and the joints are sealed.

To seal the joint between the round pipe and the roof, special penetrations are used

Video: sealing the passage of a brick pipe through a metal tile roof

Corrugated roofing

Profiled sheet is one of the most common roofing materials. But a leak can also occur in it if the chimney outlet is not arranged correctly. With this type of coating, it is better to place the chimney vertically. The hole in the roof is cut with a grinder, and it is necessary to ensure that the cut edge of the corrugated sheet is without jagged edges.

Carrying out a rectangular pipe

If it is necessary to organize a passage for a rectangular or square pipe, the apron can be made from galvanized sheet.

1. 4 strips are cut out of metal, which will be placed in front, behind and on the sides of the pipe.
2. A sheet of galvanized steel is laid from the bottom edge of the chimney to the eaves. This element is called a tie and is subsequently covered with roofing material.
3. The planks are tightly attached to the pipe, their lower part is fixed to the sheathing, and the upper part is placed on the chimney.
4. A groove is made in the wall of the pipe into which the curved edge of the strip is inserted. First, the bottom bar is installed, then both sides and the top. The sheets are folded under one another.
5. Before laying corrugated sheeting, the passage of the chimney must be waterproofed. You can use a regular waterproofing film, which is cut with an “envelope” and glued to the pipe, but it is better to use self-adhesive waterproofing tape.

The upper bar adjacent to the pipe is filled with sealant

Round pipe outlet

When leading a round pipe through a corrugated sheet covering, roll bitumen waterproofing or foil bitumen tape is used. A roofing penetration is put on the chimney, which is glued to the sheathing and sealed with a heat-resistant sealant. If the passage is made of rubber, it can melt from the heating of the pipe, so it is necessary to secure a clamp with a heat-resistant gasket under it.

If you use a roofing duct made of heat-resistant rubber, you can avoid its melting

Video: passing a pipe through a corrugated roof

Ondulin roofing

Ondulin is also called “Euroslate”. The peculiarity of this coating is that it is flammable and does not have great strength. Therefore, in order to pass the chimney pipe, you will need to make a large hole in the roof and fill it with fire-resistant material that will prevent moisture from entering.

To waterproof the joint between the chimney and the roof, install a metal roof trim with an apron, the edges of which are placed under sheets of ondulin or use an elastic tape “Onduflesh”. This coating requires additional ventilation.

In the roof made of ondulin, you will need to make a hole for a larger diameter pipe and fill it with fire-resistant material

Video: sealing a chimney on a roof made of ondulin

How to route a pipe through a soft roof

Soft roofing is also a flammable material, so a gap of 13–25 mm must be left between the covering and the chimney. Waterproofing the pipe is carried out in the same way as with other coatings, only instead of an elastic tape, a valley carpet is used or the coating itself is placed on the pipe - bitumen shingles or roofing felt.

When waterproofing the joint between a pipe and a soft roof, the coating itself can be used instead of elastic tape

Stages of work to remove the chimney through the roof

To bring a chimney through a finished roof, the following steps are necessary:

1. The location of the passage in the roof between the rafters and the cross beam is selected.
2. The box is mounted: rafters parallel to the rafter legs and beams are constructed from the beams. The cross-section of the beams for the box is taken equal to the cross-section of the rafter beams. The width of the sides of the box will be 0.5 m greater than the diameter of the pipe.
3. A hole is cut in the roof slope. To do this, through holes are drilled in the four corners of the box from the inside, at the junction of the rafters and beams. After this, the layers of the roofing cake are cut along the inner perimeter of the box and diagonally.

   After installing the flange, it can be given the required shape with a hammer

Video: DIY chimney box

Exiting a chimney pipe through the roof is a responsible matter, in which strict adherence to installation technology is required so that there is no danger of leaks and pipe destruction. Carrying out pipe removal work includes many nuances that take into account the roofing covering, the material and shape of the pipe, and waterproofing methods. Therefore, you should study all stages of work in advance and consult with a specialist.

Step-by-step instructions for carrying out the work of laying chimney pipes through floor slabs and roof structures - knowledge that will be useful to any man who decides to do the work with his own hands. The work is not easy and requires care and responsibility, because the safety of your home and its protection from fires depends on the quality.

General rules and location selection

How to route a stove pipe through a wooden ceiling - this must be done in such a way that there are no problems, as in the photo. The main task of the preparatory stage is to determine the location of the stove installation and the installation of the chimney to the street. Depending on the materials of the floor slabs and chimney pipes, work will need to be done taking into account several sizes:

Schemes for exhausting the chimney through the ceiling and roof

1st floor

The passage of the chimney through the 1st floor ceiling is equipped with a metal box filled with a layer of thermal insulation. To do this, you can use expanded clay filling and filling cavities with mineral wool. For non-residential premises, the use of asbestos slabs is allowed.

Installation diagram of a chimney through the ceiling with access to the roof (one-story house)

2 or more floors

When passing through slabs of the 2nd and subsequent floors, a situation may arise when the chimney cannot be installed vertically. Builders could move partitions or install a beam in the floor structure.

Therefore, in order not to take risks, when installing chimneys in a multi-story building, it is better to use a house ventilation system. If you make a horizontal indentation, possible condensation will collect in this place and a thick layer of soot will be deposited on the walls. And it will be difficult to clean the chimney through turns.

Installation diagram of a stove chimney in a 2-story house

Diagram with a description of all elements

Exiting the chimney through the ceiling

The choice of design and materials depends on the type of chimney. Let us analyze the rules for organizing work for the main materials of pipelines in detail.

Round metal

The whole process is divided into several stages:

Stages of work on removing a steel chimney through the ceiling

Brick chimney

Here everything is much more complicated:

Scheme of the outlet of a brick chimney through the ceiling and roof of the house

Roof passage

The passage of the chimney through the roof is carried out by analogy with floor slabs. The only addition is to provide a reliable layer of waterproofing to prevent water leakage at the chimney outlet.

Brick pipe passage through the roof

The bricks for the stove on the roof are ceramic, red, of high quality and brand. Here it is influenced not only by the high temperature of the gases, but also by the aggressive conditions of outside temperature, wind and precipitation.

After crossing the floor slab, lay the pipe to the exit point through the roof structure:

• mark and carefully cut out the cavity of the chimney passage, make a size with a margin for the insulation layer;
• We equip the passage with a metal box with a cavity for the passage of the pipe. The upper cut should be made taking into account the angle of inclination of the roof, and should be set slightly recessed inward;
• after the chimney exits outside, we fill the entire space with a layer of thermal insulation, and seal all the slightest voids with sealant;
• We install a layer of waterproofing under the surface of the roof structure. Then we put a steel apron or rubber coupling on top. Carefully seal the edges with sealant.

The main roof covering material is laid on top, and the pipe is forced to the required size. An “otter” is laid out at the top and a protective canopy is installed. It is not difficult to remove a chimney through the roof if you have good tools and the skills to perform brick and plumbing work.

Passage of a round pipe through the roof

The passage of a chimney through the roof, if the chimney is made of steel, ceramic or asbestos pipes, is carried out according to the same scheme as with a brick chimney (instructions above).

If it is necessary to install a high pipe, it is secured with steel braces to special anchors embedded in the roof structure.

How to properly vent a chimney through a roof slope?

The exit point of the smoke duct through the roof is a complex structural unit. What are the requirements for its implementation, as well as for the height and location of the part of the pipe protruding above the roof?

Let's trust the experts

Determining the height of the chimney relative to the roof ridge

As for the height of the chimney, the regulatory document (SNiP “Heating, Ventilation and Air Conditioning”) states that when removed from the ridge no further than 1.5 m, the pipe should rise above it by at least 50 cm; at 1.5–3 m - not lower than the ridge, and at a distance of more than 3 m - not lower than a line drawn from the ridge at an angle of 10° to the horizon. But there are no clear regulations regarding the location of the chimney on the roof. What do experts say about this?

The main postulate: the closer the pipe to the ridge, the better. In this case, the head of the pipe (that is, that part of it that protrudes above the roof, and therefore is located in the cold zone) will be very small; thus, the likelihood of condensation forming in the smoke duct in winter is reduced. Condensate containing aggressive substances that falls inside, at the mouth or on the protective and decorative umbrella of the pipe, is by no means harmless. It can cause poor draft in the fireplace or boiler, damage to the finishing material of the head and roof, and even shorten the service life of the chimney.

When placing the pipe at a great distance from the ridge, in particular in the eaves overhang area, it must be taken into account that it will experience increased loads during an avalanche-like descent of snow from the roof. To protect the chimney from damage, be sure to install a snow retention system on the slope

Many are of the opinion that the chimney should generally be placed on the ridge line. This makes it easier to install the junction point at the pipe exit point, and also, since snow will not accumulate here, virtually eliminates the occurrence of leaks. However, such a solution is not always possible. Firstly, you will need a rafter system where there is no load-bearing ridge beam, or creating a gap in the beam for the chimney and strengthening it with supports, which is problematic in the case of a mansard roof. And secondly, components for exiting the pipe through the ridge are produced only for channels of square or rectangular cross-section.

What roofers categorically do not recommend doing is removing chimney in the valley. Making the junction here is very difficult, and leaks are almost inevitable, because rainwater will pour onto the pipe from two slopes at once, and in winter a whole snowdrift will grow here. In addition, it will be necessary to seriously complicate the roof truss structure.

Chimney outlet through an insulated roof

Chimney passage through the roof

As you know, the layers of vapor and waterproofing that protect the insulation in the “pie” of the attic roof must be continuous throughout the roof. In addition, polymer films used for this purpose are flammable. The question arises: how to comply with the fire safety requirements of SNiP, which state that a distance of at least 13–25 cm must remain between the outer walls of the chimney and roof elements made of combustible materials (depending on the type of pipe)?

Experts propose turning the section of the roof hugging the chimney into a separate zone: on the sides of the chimney using rafter legs, and above and below it using transverse beams. In this way, a kind of box is created, the dimensions of which are determined on the basis of SNiP. The volume of the box is filled with high-density stone wool; this is a non-flammable insulation material, which can also do without steam and water protection.

The connection of the insulating films of the “pie” to the frame is done traditionally: they are cut crosswise, the edges are brought to the rafters or cross beams and secured with nails (staples). The joints are sealed with special tapes or adhesives.

To prevent the chimney from “piercing” the load-bearing rafter beam or falling into the valley area, its location must be clearly defined at the building design stage

Chimney opening

There is another approach to the problem. Since the outer walls of modern multi-layer chimneys, as a rule, do not heat up more than 60 ° C in the exhaust area through the roof, the films are not in danger, and therefore they can be brought directly to the pipe, secured with tape. In this case, it is necessary to install a stainless steel groove (or made from the same film) in the waterproofing layer above the pipe to remove moisture trapped under the roof.

Important! When choosing a chimney with a heat-insulating layer, you should take into account that the temperature of its outer surface at the point where it exits to the roof is influenced by a number of factors: the height of the pipe, the type of heating equipment, the thickness of the thermal insulation layer, etc.

Exiting a steel pipe through the eaves of an insulated roof has a certain advantage. Since the overhang structure does not contain steam, hydro- and heat-insulating layers, there are no problems with wiring the smoke duct through the roofing “pie”, ensuring the continuity of all layers and guaranteeing fire safety.

The task will also be significantly simplified by removing the pipe through a U-shaped cutout in the eaves overhang, which eliminates the very presence of a junction with the roof covering. However, in this case it will be necessary to provide additional drainage in the cutout area.

However, it must be taken into account that, being removed from the ridge, the chimney will turn out to be quite high and will experience serious wind loads. Therefore, to strengthen it, you will need a bracing system, for which you will also have to provide a sealed passage through the roof.

Connection to the roof covering

Output of a ceramic chimney to the roof

The main thing when installing it is to ensure the drainage of water flowing down the walls of the head and along the slope of the roof, for which an apron is provided around the pipe. For chimneys of rectangular or square cross-section, it is created using components for the roofing. When roofs made of ceramic and cement-sand tiles They use plastic self-adhesive tapes (lead, aluminum), which are glued with one edge to the pipe and the other to the roof. To prevent water from flowing under the tape, its upper edge is covered with a metal strip of a curved profile, fixed with heat-resistant dowels and the joint is treated with roofing sealant.

On roofs made of flexible tiles the apron is usually formed from a valley carpet or row tiles laid over the pipe, and on metal tile it is made from smooth sheets of the same material.

When making the connection unit on the side of the chimney that is located higher up the slope, the apron must be placed under the roofing. Thus, the upper roof element will overlap it, which will eliminate the possibility of leaks

Leaning

If the width of the rear wall of the chimney (that is, facing the ridge) is more than 80 cm, then behind the pipe it is necessary to install a slope, or, in other words, a valley - a small pitched structure, which is a fracture of the roof, which will divert water flows to the sides and will not allow snow masses accumulate here.

Creating a ramp is not an easy task. After all, in this zone two short valleys appear, requiring the same high-quality execution as the “real” ones.

A wide chimney creates another difficulty: making it difficult to ventilate the under-roof space, it makes it necessary to install special ventilation elements on the roof - aerators, etc.

Elements of a steel modular chimney

Manufacturers of round chimneys (three-layer insulated structures in a stainless steel shell) produce ready-made elements that ensure the tightness of the junction of the pipe and the roof. These are the so-called passages consisting of a steel sole and an apron-cap attached to it. To prevent damage to them due to temperature deformations of the pipe, the passages are rigidly fixed only to the roof, and a “skirt” is put on the junction of the cap with the pipe - a steel clamp with an elastic heat-resistant gasket, which does not allow water to penetrate under the apron.

The passage element built into the roof is sealed with pieces of heat-resistant plastic tape (lead or aluminum based) or framed with a special lead part, giving it a roofing relief profile. Please note: the upper edge of the sole should be placed under the covering, and the lower edge should overlap it.

Sometimes, in order to increase the tightness of the metal penetration, a steel sheet of the sole is mounted on top of the roof, bringing it directly under the ridge element. From the point of view of protection against leaks, the solution is reliable, but not very aesthetically pleasing.

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How to install and route a chimney pipe through the roof, to what height

Heating appliances are a necessary attribute of any residential building, providing a comfortable temperature for living during the cold period, which in most regions of Russia lasts 9 months. However, additional comfort comes with a certain degree of fire risk. Therefore, special attention is paid to the chimney, through which smoke and combustion products are removed from heat generators and discharged outside the room. This article will tell you how to remove a chimney through the roof in compliance with all safety requirements.

Consequences of poor installation

As a rule, the work of a stove maker or gas equipment installer does not include chimney installation services; the homeowner must ensure the passage of the chimney pipe through the roof independently. The imaginary simplicity of the task makes home craftsmen refuse the services of professional roofers. However, poor-quality pipe installation on the roof can have serious consequences:

1. Through an unsealed pipe passage, moisture seeps into the masonry, gradually destroying the brick chimney.
2. High humidity inside the chimney pipe stimulates the spread of mold microorganisms and fungi. Spores of some types of fungus are dangerous to the human condition, so it is unsafe to use an infected tube. In advanced cases, both the chimney and the stove masonry must be replaced
3. The penetration of water into the passage of the chimney pipe through the roof reduces the thermal insulation properties of the insulation by half. Moreover, after the thermal insulation layer dries, its characteristics will never return to their previous level.
4. Even the rafter system suffers from poor-quality pipe removal through the roof, since moisture penetrating into it through a leaky passage leads to rot and destruction.
5. Gaps near the pipe passage disrupt the normal air circulation inside the attic, leading to increased energy losses and heating costs.

By the way, not only stove chimneys are brought to the roof; pipes from gas boilers and ventilation outlets are also placed there, for the installation of which the same methods are used.

Choosing the location of the chimney outlet and its height

The first condition for a high-quality pipe outlet through the roof is the correct placement of the chimney on the roof. The functioning of the entire heating system depends on this factor, therefore, in order to avoid errors, installation is carried out in accordance with construction and fire safety requirements:

• Chimney pipes are placed in close proximity to the highest point of the roof, at a distance of 1-1.5 m.
• The recommended height of the chimney relative to the roof ridge to ensure normal stove draft is 0.5-1.5 m.
• The greater the height of the chimney, the greater the draft force in the stove or gas boiler it provides.
• The lower the pipe is located on the slope, the longer its length must be so that the recommended height of the chimney above the roof complies with the recommendations.
• Parameters such as chimney height and cross-sectional diameter are selected according to the recommendations of the manufacturer of the thermal generating device or based on calculations.
• The chimney consists mainly of vertical sections of pipes; the length of horizontal segments should not exceed 1 m.
• The outlet location is placed between the elements of the rafter system so as not to violate its integrity.

The main difficulty of passing a pipe through the roof is that during the passage of smoke, the temperature of the walls increases, which creates a risk of fire of flammable materials in the rafter system.

Elastic penetration

Most often in private construction they are faced with the installation of round metal pipes. To ensure the tightness of the passage, a special device is used - an elastic penetration. This is a product made of high-strength silicone or rubber, shaped like a funnel with a wide flange in the form of a square or circle, called an apron. Thanks to its properties, the elastic penetration takes any shape, adapting to the angle of inclination of the slope. It can withstand extremely high or low temperatures, exposure to aggressive chemicals and comes in a wide range.

When purchasing an elastic penetration, they are guided by the diameter of the pipe and the color of the roofing material. Universal models, in the form of a stepped pyramid, are suitable for any size; adjustment is carried out by trimming the penetration to the desired level. Installing an elastic apron on the roof is very simple, you need to place it on the chimney passage, apply a metal circle with holes for fasteners, treat the joint with fire-resistant sealant and secure it with a screwdriver. For roofs with steep slopes, a special type of plastic penetrations with a specified flange mounting angle is used.

Metal feedthrough

In hardware stores you can find another type of penetration for round pipes - a metal feedthrough. It is used to pass a chimney through a roof that does not have a relief. Finished alloy steel pipes have a standard roof angle, which is adjusted to the roof slope. To perform installation, you must:

Cut a hole of a suitable shape in the roof. To do this, markings are applied to the roof surface using a marker. Depending on the roofing material, cutting is performed with a grinder or sharp scissors, retreating 1-2 cm inside the circle.

• Remove the waterproofing and thermal insulation material from the hole made, freeing the passage for the chimney. If necessary, remove the sheathing elements by carefully sawing them off.
• On the underside of the roof, secure a sheet of fire-resistant material with a hole of the required diameter of such an area that there is a margin of 15-20 cm on each side of the chimney.
• Insert the pipe module into the hole, connect it to the laid chimney, tightening the connection with a clamp.
• Place the outlet pipe onto the pipe, securing it to the surface of the slope with fire-resistant sealant and self-tapping screws with a rubber cap.
• Add new segments to the pipe so that the height of the chimney exceeds the level of the ridge by 0.5-1.5 m.

Some craftsmen prefer to use a different method - they solder a chimney pipe into the passage pipe in advance, line it with thermal insulating material, for example stone wool, and only then install this structure into the passage.

Output of rectangular and square pipes

The chimney of stoves and fireplaces made of brick is most often square or rectangular in shape, so other methods are used to bring it to the roof. This task is for an experienced stove master, and not a home craftsman, because the process uses a special masonry technique. When the chimney approaches the roof, a hole of the appropriate size is cut out in it with an allowance of 2-5 cm, through which the stove maker brings the pipe to the roof. Although heat-resistant brick perfectly retains heat inside the pipe, the inside of the passage is lined with asbestos sheets to protect the rafters from fire.

A soft waterproofing tape on a lead or aluminum base is attached to a brick pipe using a metal profile, the lower edge of which is fixed to the roof using sealant. After this, the unsightly waterproofing is covered with a special decorative apron. It consists of four additional parts and is installed under the roofing material, making the passage neat and well protected.

Installation of the outlet box

The roof structure consists of layers of several materials, the fire-resistant qualities of which are expressed in different ways. While most roofing materials do not burn or support combustion, a rafter system traditionally made from wood does not have such properties. In order to safely remove the chimney pipe through any material, install a passage box:

• The first step is to purchase or make a box from a fireproof material, for example, metal or asbestos. The size of the box is selected in accordance with the cross-section of the pipe, so that there is at least 15 cm between their walls.
• After making the hole, a box is installed in it, the upper edge is aligned with the level of the roof slope.
• Exit the chimney through the hole in the passage box. The edges of the waterproofing film and vapor barrier are glued to the pipe using fire-resistant sealant and reinforced tape.
• Expanded clay is poured inside the box or stone wool is laid to thermally insulate the chimney. Thermal insulating materials are placed taking into account that they should not impede air circulation.
• The outside of the chimney pipe, depending on the shape and roofing material, is finished using an elastic penetration, a decorative apron or a metal pipe.

A high-quality chimney outlet does not spoil the appearance of the roof, does not allow moisture to pass through, and is safe from the point of view of fire safety standards. Follow the correct technology for passing tubes through ceilings to protect yourself and your property.

Video instruction

How to properly install a chimney through the roof

Heating devices are an essential element of every residential building. They are designed to provide a comfortable indoor temperature during cold seasons. In the regions of Russia, this period averages 6 months, in some places – up to 10 or more. Gaining additional comfort comes with a certain risk of fire.

For this reason, increased attention must be paid to chimneys that carry smoke and combustion products from heating devices outside the room. This article will look at how to remove a chimney through the roof safely and in accordance with all modern standards and regulations.

The chimney pipe is used in devices where heat is generated by burning various fuels. This fuel is wood, coal, gas or other flammable substances. The removal of combustion products through a pipe through the roof is regulated by the requirements of SNiP 41-01-2003. Some points are considered partially outdated, but most supervisory services rely on this document. Therefore, the requirements and standards contained in it are mandatory.

What can result from poor installation?

Often, the list of works of a stove maker or installer of a gas or electric heating boiler does not include work on installing a chimney. It is assumed that the passage of the chimney pipe through the roof is laid at the construction stage, or the homeowner will install the chimney on his own. The apparent simplicity of such work provokes owners to refuse to use professional roofers. They don’t think about what serious negative consequences a poor-quality chimney outlet to the roof can lead to. Frequently encountered problems:

Not only chimneys from stoves, fireplaces and other solid fuel devices are raised above the roof. Exhaust pipes from gas heaters, as well as ventilation pipes, are also discharged there. When installing them, exactly the same methods are used as for chimneys.

The height of the pipe and the location of its passage in the roof

A chimney on the roof can only be placed correctly if the outlet for the pipe through the roof is chosen correctly. This factor may affect the proper functioning of the heating system. To prevent installation errors, it is necessary to be guided by existing fire safety requirements, as well as building rules and regulations. Key points of arrangement:

The main problem with installing a pipe through the roof lies in the fact that when smoke or combustion products pass through, the temperature of the structure increases, and this can lead to a fire of the materials from which the roofing elements or rafter system are made.

Flexible passage for round chimney

Usually, in private residential construction, one has to deal with the arrangement of smoke exhaust and ventilation pipes with a round cross-section. How can you install a chimney through the roof elements to also ensure sealing of the passage? For this purpose, a special design is used - an elastic roof passage element. This product is made of special durable silicone or rubber. The shape resembles a funnel with wide round or square brims. These fields are called an apron. The elastic passage element, due to the flexibility of the material, can take any configuration. This allows it to be used on roofs with any slope angle and any final coatings. The material from which it is made must withstand the lowest and highest temperatures possible, and also be resistant to the external environment. Elastic penetrations are available in various colors and configurations.

When choosing which penetration to purchase, you need to focus on the diameter of the chimney and the color of the roofing finish. Universal products are produced, similar to a stepped pyramid, they are suitable for any pipe diameter. The size is adjusted using scissors, which are used to trim the penetration to the required level.

Installing an elastic apron on the roof is quite simple. To do this, you need to attach it to the chimney passage, press it on top with a metal circle in which there are holes for self-tapping screws, apply fire-resistant sealant to the place of contact with the roof and screw it in with a screwdriver or screwdriver.

For roofs with extremely steep angles, it is necessary to use a special type of penetration with a fixed mounting angle of the pressure flange.

Rigid metal feedthrough

For the installation of chimneys, you can use another type of passage products for pipes of a round configuration - a passage pipe made of metal. It is used in cases where it is necessary to arrange the passage of a chimney pipe through a roof without relief. Such finished products from galvanized or painted steel are made to a fixed roof slope angle.

To purchase, you need to measure this angle at your roof. The installation of such a product is carried out in the following order:

In some cases, it is recommended to use another method. Its essence is that it is necessary to remove the chimney pipe in the passage box in advance, cover it with a special insulating material, for example basalt wool, and after that the entire structure is laid in the roof.

Arrangement of rectangular chimneys

When the chimney pipe masonry approaches the roof, you need to cut a hole in it of the calculated size with a tolerance of about 6 cm. Using it, the pipe will be brought out above the roof. Despite the fact that heat-resistant brick perfectly retains heat inside the chimney, the outside of this pipe must be lined with asbestos sheets. This measure will protect the rafters from exposure to high temperatures.

Waterproofing on an aluminum backing is attached to the protruding part of the brick pipe using a metal profile, and its lower edge is secured to the roof using sealant. Next, the unsightly waterproofing of the chimney on the roof is covered with a special decorative apron. It consists of four parts and is mounted on the roof, making the transition aesthetic and protected from influences.

A properly arranged pipe outlet will not spoil the appearance of the roof, will not allow moisture penetration and is completely safe according to fire safety requirements. The finishing of the chimney on the roof is carried out depending on the design of the roof and the desires of the homeowner.

Installing a chimney is quite a responsible and complex job. It is necessary to think through all stages of installation in advance and get advice from a specialist.

Folding a stove is not an easy task, but when it comes to arranging the correct passage of the chimney pipe through the roof, this is an equally important procedure.

Chimney passage through a tiled roof

Fire safety, as well as waterproofing of the stove and attic floor, depend on how correctly the work is carried out. An incorrectly installed system for removing gases released during fuel combustion can cause fire! These gases are also hazardous to health and life human, their accumulation under the roof of residential premises creates a dangerous layer, which, reaching a critical mass, can cause irreparable damage to human health and even death!

The consequences of poorly carried out work on sealing the chimney when it exits through the roof can be as follows:

• If the pipe is not protected from moisture, dampness will easily destroy the chimney masonry over time, penetrating the seams and corroding the mortar, which can also lead to smoke in the attic, and in the worst case, a fire.
• Moisture that appears in unsealed holes around the pipe flows down the masonry, penetrating inside the chimney, and can lead to the formation of fungus. You will have to reinstall the pipe, and perhaps even part of the furnace.
• Overmoistening not only the pipe, but also the vapor barrier and insulation materials can lead to their rupture.
• As a result of the loss of tightness of the thermal insulation, the heat loss of the building will increase.
• There may be a disruption in air circulation in the attic, which will lead to a decrease in moisture exchange.
• Moisture entering cracks during temperature changes forms ice, which widens the cracks, and destructive processes are activated.
• Due to moisture, the entire structure of the roof can be disrupted if it gets on the rafter structure and begins to corrode it.

This picture can occur in a pipe if the cracks around it are poorly sealed. To avoid such a problem, the installation of the pipe outlet through the roof must be carried out carefully and competently.

When starting this process, you need to learn and follow the established rules SNiP 41— 03— 01— 2003. Chimney installation work will be needed in the following cases:

• during roof construction;
• when repairing the roof;
• when installing a heating device or constructing a furnace.

The optimal location of the chimney on the roof is 1.5 m from the ridge

Experienced stove makers advise placing the pipe outlet closer to the highest point of the roof, the ridge, and it should rise above it by at least half a meter. This is convenient because less snow will accumulate in the area above the pipe, and when it melts, the risk of leakage is reduced.

If the head of the pipe is located lower along the roof slope, it should also be raised above the covering by at least half a meter.

It should be noted that the type of chimney and its finishing are very important when carrying out this process, since there are several options for designing this unit, which is important for the entire house. The outlet of the head has different designs, and depends on the shape and material from which the chimney is made, the location of its exit and size. Chimney pipes can be made of metal, brick, asbestos cement or ceramics. For each type of pipe, the passage is arranged in a certain way.

The design of brick pipes leading through the roof has its own type of installation. The plastered head of the pipe is sealed in a completely different way, and a ceramic or metal chimney has several methods for sealing the seams between it and the roof.

The roofing material also plays an important role in the design of seams around the chimney.

For different types of roofing materials, it is easy to find a special element that will help make the chimney waterproofing more reliable. The main thing is to choose the correct slope of this element. It is very important that the pipe is located in the roof opening in such a way that the distance between it and the roof, as well as the rafters, is at least 5-7 cm. These gaps are filled with non-flammable insulating material, for example, asbestos.

Elements for insulating round pipes

To bring out a round pipe, which can be made of metal or ceramics, you need to properly make a hole in the roof. Around the hole, from the inside of the roof, it is recommended to fasten a metal sheet or a specially made metal panel with a hole for the pipe. If necessary, you need to add additional bars to the sheathing to secure them.

The roof can have different slopes, and these will determine which insulating element, called roof penetration, should be chosen for waterproofing. Construction stores have a large selection of various auxiliary elements designed specifically for this procedure, in different shapes and diameters.

Elastic roof penetration

A pipe exiting through a roof that has a slope will accordingly require a special penetration slope. Also, we can say that its choice will depend on the material with which the roof is covered. This is taken into account in order to achieve the best sealing effect.

The roof penetration is a pyramid consisting of several steps. The pyramid is located on a flexible square or round flange. The entire element is made of silicone or durable types of rubber, although sometimes one of its parts can be made of aluminum. Due to the elasticity of these materials, the penetration fits well with any roof and does not react to the influence of wind or snow melting.

The positive characteristics of such products include:

• resistance to chemical and ultraviolet influences;
• resistance to temperature changes, from - 50 to + 130 degrees;
• flexibility;
• wide range of colors - they can be matched to any roof color;
• aesthetics, the ability to complete the coating;
• due to its good fit to the roof, the penetration guarantees excellent tightness;
• The flexibility of the part makes it possible to install it on any roof slope.

Since penetrations are produced in different sizes, they must be selected correctly according to the diameter of the chimney and the slope of the roof. The dimensions are indicated on the body of the element itself.

• Direct penetration is used mainly on roofs that have a slight slope, about 25 degrees, and on flat roofs.
• Corner penetrations, the flange of which must be fixed at a certain angle, for example, 20 degrees, are used to seal pipes installed on roofs with a slope of more than 25 degrees.
• A universal penetration, which can be adjusted to any pipe diameter, looks like this: on each of the steps of the penetration pyramid, the diameter for which it is intended is indicated. The master only has to cut off the excess top and install it on the pipe.

Installation of soft roof penetration for a chimney pipe

Installation of this waterproofing element is quite simple:

The installation process is simple and straightforward

After waterproofing - attached to the roof with self-tapping screws

• if a universal version is purchased, the excess part is cut off;
• Then the penetration is put on the pipe and pressed against the roof. If the roof is ribbed, the waterproofing should take the shape of the ribs of the covering;
• then a sealant is used, which coats the edges of the flange and presses it firmly to the roof;
• The last step is to fix the penetration along the flange to the roof using self-tapping screws or rivets.

The presented photos clearly show the process of installing waterproofing.

Metal penetration

Another option for waterproofing a metal pipe can be a metal penetration, which is also sold in finished form. It has excellent characteristics, but can only be installed on a roof that does not have a relief pattern, for example, a soft one. Another condition necessary for a tight installation of the flange to the roofing is the ideal angle of the element to the slope of the roof.

• There are different models of metal penetrations. On some of them, the pipe is fixed and soldered from the inside, and the top cap of the chimney is put on and welded from the outside.

• There may be another option, when the pipe passes through the penetration and a detachable metal part is fixed on top of it, which does not allow moisture to penetrate inside.
• The flange is glued to the roof using sealant and then screwed with self-tapping screws.

Square, rectangular pipe

A brick chimney is almost always square or rectangular in shape. Passing through the attic, it is brought to the roof. Next, a hole is made in the roof, which should be decorated from the inside with a metal sheet with a hole made in the middle in the shape of a pipe. Through this window the head is brought out onto the roof surface. This option is convenient when venting a chimney through thick sheathing in the roof, for example, when installing a soft roof.

If the sheathing is installed at a certain distance (for example, slate roofing), it is good if the pipe runs between the rafters. But it also happens that the pipe rests on one of the beams supporting the roof or they are too far from the walls of the pipe. In this case, it is necessary to arrange additional parts of the rafter-beam system, which will allow you to secure heat-resistant insulation and waterproofing around the chimney.

When a square pipe is passed through the roof, the seams around it are sealed with non-combustible materials, and a penetration-casing made of metal cut in a special way is installed on top.

The picture shows an apron consisting of four parts, which is assembled in a simple way. This penetration is installed under the roof covering, and the roofing material is laid on top of it. The cracks formed in the area where the metal joins the pipe and when connecting to the roof are sealed with sealant.

If sealing is carried out on top of the roofing material, then it is made with a layer of soft waterproofing, consisting of a special tape, which is made on the basis of aluminum and lead. It is well fixed with a sealant on any flat surface or one that has a certain relief.

On the pipe itself, soft waterproofing is also placed on a sealant and secured with special metal strips. The photo clearly shows the design of such protection.

One of the options for passing a chimney pipe through the roof - video tutorial

Chimney pipe passage through a tile roof

Separately, I would like to say about the passage of the pipe through the tiled roof. Manufacturers have thought of a special element that repeats the relief pattern of the tiles and has a hole for the pipe. A pipe made of the same material is also matched to it.

These tile roofing elements are made from highly resistant plastics. They are available in the same colors as tiles, and you can always choose the right shade suitable for a particular building. But such plastic roof parts are installed only for ventilation outlets, since they are unlikely to withstand the high temperatures that accompany the smoke emanating from any furnace.

Safety criteria for the passage of a chimney pipe through the roof

It is impossible, in the scope of one publication, to both cover all the options for installing chimneys through the roof and talk about all the important tricks in this work. But there are points that are extremely necessary to know.

• Some roofs contain layers of different materials that do not have pronounced fire-resistant properties. Therefore, it is very important to provide fire safety rules.

In order to protect wooden floors and other flammable materials, special boxes are built around a chimney of any shape.

The pipe is placed in a special fireproof box

This option is very convenient for roofs covered with slate, tiles or other materials with a three-dimensional pattern, as well as for soft roofing. The box is lined up flush with the sheathing, on which the roofing covering is laid. It must have a certain thickness in order to reliably protect the entire layer of sheathing and the vapor barrier and insulation installed on it from possible overheating and fire. It’s not bad if there is also a distance of about 5-7 cm between the chimney and fire-resistant materials.

• When purchasing a penetration, you must make sure of its reliability and resistance to temperature changes and increased heating, and only then check its waterproofing qualities.
• The correct installation of the pipe and its passage through the roof is very important, since this is not only a decorative element, but also a functional one. We must not forget that the safety of your health and property will depend on the correct installation of this unit.
• The materials used in such work must meet the necessary requirements specifically for this device. For example, ventilation pipes must not be used to remove smoke from heating appliances. You definitely need to know the characteristics of the materials you are purchasing, and it is better to consult with a specialist if anything is in doubt.

In any case, if you have never dealt with this type of work, it is not worth the risk. The best option would be to invite a master who has performed this process more than once. It will complete the task faster and will not spoil the overall appearance of the roof.

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How to independently arrange the passage of a pipe through the roof in a private house or bathhouse

During the construction of any house, there always comes a time when it is necessary to remove the stove or ventilation pipes through the roof; there is no way around it. Some owners do not attach much importance to this process; however, mistakes made during the arrangement of the docking station can lead to serious negative consequences. In this material I will tell you how to independently remove pipes through the attic floor and different types of roofs.

What can result from poor-quality installation?

In most cases, stove makers and ventilation equipment specialists are engaged exclusively in the installation of their sector. Pipe passages through the wall, interfloor ceiling and roof do not touch them. People don’t want to hire a professional and take on the job themselves. As a result, after a short period of time a whole bunch of problems may “pop up”.

When you hire a specialist, it is better to immediately discuss the moment of arranging transitions through structures.
Sometimes it’s easier to pay a little more to an experienced person than to then rack your brains over how to do it all correctly and beautifully with your own hands.

• The materials from which chimneys are made are quite durable; they can easily withstand temperature changes, but these materials are often not designed for constant contact with moisture. For example, an asbestos-cement pipe, saturated with moisture, will simply begin to crumble and after a couple of seasons it will look as if mice had eaten it;
• Again, due to high humidity, this sector will be intensively overgrown with soot from the inside therefore, you will have to clean the chimney much more often;
• But that's not the worst part. In most cases, the roof is now insulated with basalt or glass wool. Once such insulation gets wet, firstly, it becomes useless, and secondly, it shrinks and is no longer restored. There is no point in drying cotton wool, it only needs to be changed;
• Don't forget that almost all roofs are made on a wooden frame.. Whatever you impregnate the wood with, if the structures are constantly in a humid environment, then sooner or later they will begin to rot. Water wears away stones, let alone wood;

• There is one more point, I will explain it with an example. One of my friends finished building a house in the fall and, since the weather had already begun to noticeably deteriorate, he sealed the passage through the roof of the chimney at random, in the hope that everything would be fixed in the spring.

Imagine what his surprise was when, on New Year's holidays, the chimney passage through the ceiling, which was decorated in a pompous and very expensive Baroque style, became covered with red wet spots and the stucco began to fall off. And all this happened because the roof joint was not airtight enough.

After the stove was flooded, the snow around the pipe melted, water flowed through the pipe and completely ruined the luxurious interior, the cost of which was tens of times higher than the services of the most expensive roofer.

Where is the best place to install pipes?

Of course, when the house was built a long time ago and you are just repairing the roof, it is no longer possible to change anything. But at the design stage, you have the opportunity to choose the optimal location for the pipe outlet.

Any stove maker will tell you that the passage unit is best mounted in a ridge. But this is a double-edged sword. On the one hand, snow or rain will never leak under the pipe, plus the chimney located above the ridge provides optimal draft. On the other hand, you will have to tinker a lot with arranging the rafter system, because breaking a horizontal ridge beam is quite a complicated matter.

The minimum distance from the chimney to the rafters or load-bearing beams according to SNiP 41-03-01-2003 should be 140 - 250 mm.

• It is usually recommended to move the chimney slightly to one side relative to the ridge. Moreover, if the pipe is located at a distance of up to one and a half meters from the ridge, then it should rise above it to a height of 50 cm;
• If the distance from the ridge to the passage unit fluctuates around 1.5 - 3 m, then the height of the pipe can be made flush with the ridge;
• When the roof is pitched or the distance from the ridge beam to the passage unit is more than 3 m, it is allowed to install the top point of the pipe along a line passing at an angle of 10º relative to the horizon along the ridge. To make it easier for you to understand, a diagram is presented below.

The most undesirable place for installing chimney and ventilation pipes is their location in the valley. For those who don’t know, an enode is the internal corner that is formed by connecting two roof slopes. This does not threaten ordinary classical structures; this arrangement can be found on multi-level roofs with a complex configuration.

If you are faced with a case where your chimney pipe passage through the roof is in the “valley”, then it is better to try to make an extra bend and move the pipe half a meter to the side.

For the so-called sandwich structures, from which most chimneys for boilers and sauna stoves are now made, this will not be difficult. Otherwise, water will constantly attack your connecting node from three sides and sooner or later a leak will occur.

Self-installation of passages through the roof or ceiling

If previously roofs were mostly covered with slate, now it is increasingly being replaced by metal tiles and other modern roofing materials. Plus, in addition to the passage through the roof, you also need to take care of the transitions through the ceiling.

Elastic transition block as the easiest way out

A good half of modern chimneys and almost all ventilation outlets are now made round. It is precisely for such designs that elastic adapters are produced.

This adapter is a multi-stage funnel with a square or round base. A heat-resistant, elastic polymer is used as the main material.

Each stage on the funnel corresponds to one of the running diameters of the chimney. In order for the pipe to fit tightly, you only need to cut the adapter with scissors to the level you need.

Hermetically sealed fixation of the soft polymer base (flange) to the roof itself is carried out with metal pins and bolts. Such a flange can take any shape, so it easily bends around the complex topography of roofing coverings.

The price for such a product is quite reasonable, plus the installation instructions, in my opinion, are more than simple. As I said, first you need to cut the cone to the desired diameter. After this, you need to lubricate the joint between the adapter and the pipe and the lower, contact part of the flange with heat-resistant sealant. Next, all you have to do is screw the flange with metal pins through the pre-drilled holes to the lower flange ring.

Insulated sandwich chimneys are distinguished by their mirror shine. If you don’t like the elastic polymer adapter, then for such cases there are metal adapters made from the same stainless steel. They differ from their polymer counterparts in the large dimensions of the apron, the specified angle of inclination of the roof and the clearly defined diameter of the chimney.

Metal adapter.

The installation of such stainless steel adapters differs from the previous version only in that, in addition to heat-resistant sealant, a metal clamp is additionally used to seal the adapter and pipe.

Arranging a passage through metal tiles

I would like to immediately note that it is quite difficult to correctly pass a pipe through a metal tile without experience, so after studying the instructions and looking at the thematic photos and videos in this article, you should think carefully about whether you are capable of such a labor feat.

The connecting unit consists of an internal main and external decorative apron. Experienced roofers usually make the inner apron from tin or thin aluminum sheet. We have already mentioned round pipes, so next we will talk about sealing the joint of the roof with square or rectangular brick pipes.

The inner apron is installed directly on the sheathing before laying the metal tiles. The design consists of 4 parts, according to the number of pipe planes. Each of these parts must extend under the layer of metal tiles by at least 250 - 300 mm. It extends onto the pipe by 150 - 250 mm, again from the metal tile layer.

Before installing the apron elements along the perimeter of the pipe at the same level parallel to the roof, a groove 10 - 15 mm deep is cut with a grinder. We will insert the upper cut of the apron into it.

Before inserting the apron elements into the groove, it is cleaned, washed with water, dried and filled with heat-resistant sealant. Only the sealant needs to be filled right before installing the protective elements.

On the plates themselves, along the upper cut, the edge is bent at 90º to the depth of the groove. Personally, I did it simpler, I immediately inserted the sheets into the groove and, tapping with a hammer, bent them down parallel to the pipe.

We complete the installation of the apron by attaching it to the pipe with special heat-resistant dowels and soldering the joints between all four elements. But that’s not all; a so-called tie is placed and attached to the roofing underlay underneath the apron. This is a sheet of the same tin or aluminum, the width of which must exceed the dimensions of the pipe by at least half a meter on each side.

It should go down the underlayment to the edge of the roof. The tie is a kind of insurance, if somewhere the decorative trim starts to leak, water will flow down the tie under the metal tile. As a result, the roofing cake will remain dry.

When the inner apron and tie are finally secured to the pipe and roof sheathing, you can begin laying the metal tiles themselves. At the end, a decorative apron is installed. Each metal tile manufacturer produces its own additional elements and makes them to match the color of the roof.

Such aprons, as a rule, are a corrugated aluminum or lead sheet, on the back of which a self-adhesive coating is applied. On top of this apron is equipped with a decorative strip, which is fixed to the pipe with self-tapping screws. But before fixing, it is advisable to additionally coat the joint with heat-resistant.

The upper strip of the decorative apron is attached just above the border of the lower main apron; after fixing it, the apron itself is carefully tapped with a rubber hammer so that the corrugated sheet fits well and sticks to the complex surface of the metal tile.

The arrangement of transitions with soft modern roofing materials is carried out in approximately the same way, with the only difference that they often do without installing a tie.

The main mistake of amateurs is that they often neglect to install the main lower apron and tie; the decorative upper apron holds up well, of course, but the thin, soft aluminum corrugation barrier is not particularly reliable and can be easily damaged, for example, by a branch falling from a tree .

How to protect a wooden base from a hot chimney

As you remember, according to SNiP 41-03-01-2003 standards, the minimum distance from the chimney to any wooden structures starts from 140 mm. Sandwich elements are considered the most “advanced” in this regard, but even there the insulation has a maximum thickness of only 100 mm.

We conclude that all chimneys when passing through wooden roof structures or wooden interfloor ceilings must be protected.

The passage of a pipe through the ceiling of a bathhouse is the most striking illustration of this topic, since bathhouses in our great power are usually made of wood. It is worth adding to this that the temperature in sauna stoves is often higher than in conventional ones.

It is believed that in order for dry wood to begin to char, it only needs 200ºC. And when the temperature reaches 300ºС, there is a real danger of spontaneous combustion.
If we consider that birch firewood produces temperatures up to 500ºС, and when using good coal or coke, the temperature can rise above 700ºС, then the scale of the danger becomes clear.

When arranging such transitions, you can go in two ways: buy a special transition block or do it yourself.

Now the industry produces a variety of ceiling pass-through units (CPU). In expensive structures of this type, a special reinforced box is provided, which comes along with insulation, filler and other accessories. But as far as I have come across, our man does not want to pay money for such conveniences, and in this, I agree with him.

The fact is that the design itself is not particularly complicated and here, as often happens with us, it is cheaper to buy everything separately. First, I will tell you what the classic instructions for such an arrangement look like, and then I will tell you how I made the passage of the pipe through the ceiling of the bathhouse with my own hands:

• In almost any construction market you can now find special metal boxes with a hole already cut to a certain diameter of the chimney;
• In the horizontal plate of such a box, which is also part of the ceiling, mounting holes for self-tapping screws are made around the perimeter. But the structure cannot be immediately attached to a “bare” wooden ceiling. Its edges must first be covered with a non-flammable heat insulator. Most often, asbestos sheet is used for these purposes;
• The dimensions of the vertical walls of the box are selected in a similar way so that an asbestos sheet can be secured between them and the passage hole;

• The inside of the vertical walls of the box should be lined with foil-coated basalt wool 30 - 50 mm thick, it certainly costs more than usual, but these are the instructions;
• It is almost impossible to select the holes in the box for the chimney absolutely clearly without the slightest gap, although there will be at least a small gap. Here it is supposed to be covered with heat-resistant sealant;
• Next, the space between the foiled basalt wool and the chimney is filled with expanded clay or the same wool, only soft and without coating. For a non-residential attic floor, this is enough, but if the bathhouse is an attic type, and there is a rest room on the second floor, then the box on top should be covered with a mineralite slab (a heat-resistant and safer analogue of asbestos) or the same stainless steel plate.

Now, as I promised, I will tell you about my own experience in arranging such a transition. The bathhouse was built a long time ago, and then these convenient devices simply did not exist. Sandwich structures at that time cost incredible amounts of money, so an abandoned cast iron pipe was installed as a chimney.

A square hole in the wooden ceiling was cut so that there was at least 250 mm between the chimney and the wood in all directions. I immediately filled the vertical walls of the niche with asbestos sheeting.

A three-millimeter stainless steel sheet was hemmed underneath. I wanted to hem a ten-millimeter asbestos-cement slab, but I was afraid that it would burst from the temperature, although my neighbor hemmed it and is still standing.

I wrapped the pipe in the box with asbestos cloth and caulked the gap with clay on top of it. And on top of this entire structure I covered it with expanded clay of medium diameter. On the second floor of the bathhouse, I decided to make a rest room, but at that time I did not have a second sheet of stainless steel of the same type.

Then I mixed a cement-lime mortar based on expanded clay sand and poured a thirty-millimeter wire-reinforced screed. Only the screed was not poured close to the cast iron pipe, but through a gasket made of asbestos sheet, otherwise it would simply crack with temperature fluctuations.

Conclusion

As you can see, you can make a passage through the roof of the chimney with your own hands. But still, if you decide to spend money on high-quality coverings made of metal tiles or other similar materials, I recommend that you first carefully study the available methods. If you have any questions, write them in the comments, I will try to answer.

If you want to express gratitude, add a clarification or objection, or ask the author something - add a comment or say thank you!

The chimney is one of the most important parts of heating structures. Its correct functioning is the key to safety. Most fires and poisoning by combustion products are associated precisely with errors in the selection of materials for the chimney and its installation. At the moment, sandwich pipes for chimneys are the most popular. They have good fire resistance and are quite easy to install. However, such a chimney also has a number of disadvantages.

Sandwich - this type of pipe received this name for its layering by analogy with the named product. The inner and outer layers of such pipes are represented by metal cylinders, and the middle one is a layer of thermal insulation.

Metal for chimneys began to be used quite a long time ago. A simple example is the pipe of an ordinary potbelly stove. However, soon after commissioning it became clear that metal pipes have a number of disadvantages. The problem was that metals, having good thermal conductivity, quickly heat up and give off heat to the environment, and there is always a danger of ignition.

The solution turned out to be simple - the metal pipe was wrapped in a layer of thermal protective material. However, such material does not tolerate environmental conditions well and is not very attractive from an aesthetic point of view.

Sandwich pipes are the next solution in the evolution of metal chimneys. Another metal pipe is placed on top of the thermal insulation layer, which protects the inner two layers from external influences and does not spoil the appearance of the building.

It is important! Sandwich pipes can be purchased ready-made, but you can make them yourself by selecting the materials with the required parameters. It is worth remembering that the inner pipe should be more expensive and better quality than the outer one, but smaller in diameter, and the thicker the thermal insulation layer is, the higher the combustion temperature of the fuel in the heating device.

The inner cylinder is made of stainless steel. This material is less susceptible to corrosion by combustion products. The steel must be high quality and high-tech. Preference is given to those options whose seams are welded using the TIG method - the most reliable and wear-resistant, but also the most expensive.