Fastening logs to a concrete base and to timber frames, choosing timber. How to lay joists on a concrete floor Attaching cross joists

Fastening logs to a concrete base and to timber frames, choosing timber.  How to lay joists on a concrete floor Attaching cross joists
Fastening logs to a concrete base and to timber frames, choosing timber. How to lay joists on a concrete floor Attaching cross joists

Wooden floors on joists are one of the oldest methods of flooring and the only one used in northern regions our country. Modern materials just improved ancient technology, due to which the scope of application has significantly expanded and performance indicators have improved. Before proceeding directly to consideration various options, you should familiarize yourself a little with the engineering requirements for calculations.

Logs are distinguished from beams by their smaller size and mobility. If beams cannot be moved after installation, and repairs are very long and labor-intensive, then logs are a mobile architectural element. They are much easier to install and, if necessary, repairs are carried out faster.

Before you start building a floor, you need to study the requirements regulatory documents to the size of the joists and the distance between them, taking into account the thickness of the floorboards.

Table of lag sections at a pitch of 70 cm

Table of distance between lags depending on the thickness of the board

In order to learn how to independently make calculations based on tables, it will be useful to consider simplest example. Initial data: room length 10 m, take floorboard 30 mm thick.

Calculation method

According to the table, with such a thickness of the board, the distance between the logs is 50 cm; with a room length of 10 m, 20 logs will be needed. The distance between the logs and the walls cannot exceed 30 cm. This means that we will have to increase their number by one piece, the distance between the others will decrease to 45 centimeters.

Important note. During calculations, all roundings should be done only downwards, thus creating an additional margin of safety.

There is no need to calculate dimensions and distances accurate to the millimeter; no one takes such measurements. By the way, during construction the absolute majority architectural elements and structures are measured in centimeters, the greatest accuracy is half a centimeter. Millimeters are almost never used during measurements.

Floor subfloor options

These types of floors can be installed on a wooden or concrete base or on the ground. Each option has its own technological features, which must be kept in mind during work. As for the specific purpose of the premises, taking this parameter into account, the base of the floor and its performance characteristics. The technology of the device itself remains almost unchanged. There are, of course, options for warm and cold floors, but these features also have general algorithm construction.

Installation of a wooden floor on joists on wooden bases

Such floors can be made in both wooden and brick buildings and can have several varieties. The features of flooring need to be considered at the building design stage. Not only the purpose of each room and its dimensions are taken into account, but also climate zone accommodation, microclimate requirements and financial capabilities of the developer. Below are given step-by-step recommendations construction of this type of flooring.

Depending on specific conditions, the algorithm can be slightly modified, but all main construction operations must be completed. The base can be moisture-resistant OSB boards or sheets of plywood. The design of the floor coverings provides for the possibility of laying insulation; the use of rolled and pressed glass wool or polystyrene foam is allowed. If there are insulation materials, then you should definitely install hydro- and vapor barriers.

Step 1. Take the dimensions of the room and calculate the number of joists, taking into account the above recommendations. Prepare materials and tools, make markings. Do the work slowly; mistakes made at this stage are extremely Negative consequences. Eliminating them will take a lot of time.

Step 2. Start installing the logs from the outer wall ones. If the room has subfloors, then the joists can be fixed directly to them. To make work easier, it is better to use metal squares with perforations; such elements significantly speed up work and increase the stability of the joists. Using the mark on the wall, taking into account the thickness of the floorboards, align one end of the joist and fix its position.

Practical advice. When installing the outer joists, do not fix them immediately; first, you should only tighten the screws. This will allow you to make final fine adjustments.

Do the same actions at the second end of the log, constantly monitor its level position. Once the lag lays down normally, you can firmly fasten the ends and begin installing intermediate fasteners. The distance between them depends on the thickness of the boards that are used for the logs; it is approximately 70 centimeters.

Step 3. You need to stretch the ropes between the outermost joists; place all the remaining joists along this line. Constantly check with a level; installation accuracy should be ±1–2 mm. There is no point anymore, it takes a lot of extra time. A small difference in height will be removed during finishing front surface floorboards.

Step 4. If the floors are warm, then you need to lay thermal insulation between the joists; waterproofing and vapor barriers are used to prevent moisture from entering. The distances between the logs must be adjusted taking into account the length and width of the insulation. It could be like mineral wool or foam plastic, or bulk species insulation materials. If all preparatory work completed, you can begin laying the floorboards.

There are options for installing joists on floor beams. These are so-called ventilated floors and are most often used for non-residential premises. There is no need to be particularly precise; size alignment is done using lags. The logs are attached to the beams with nails or self-tapping screws from the side. The algorithm of work is the same. First, the extreme ones are placed, a rope is pulled between them and all the others are fixed along it.

Ventilation is carried out through special vents in the foundations; the distance between the ground and the floor must be at least fifty centimeters. Otherwise, the air exchange rate does not meet the required indicators, and this causes damage to wooden structures.

Installation of floors on wooden joists on concrete

Such floors are considered more complex, labor-intensive and expensive; all wooden structures must be reliably protected from direct contact with concrete. Otherwise, the structures will quickly become unusable and will have to be replaced prematurely. Eat chemical method protecting lags from rotting processes using various impregnations. They are quite effective and actually prevent the process of wood deterioration. But unfortunately, impregnated wooden structures can no longer be considered environmentally friendly, and it is for this indicator that most developers install natural wooden floors.

If the logs are laid over the entire area on concrete, then waterproofing is required between them.

But they can also be secured using metal squares, which allows you to create a gap between the base and the joist. It must be borne in mind that at the same time load-bearing characteristics the floors are slightly reduced.


This fixation method has its advantages. Firstly, direct contact of wooden structures with concrete ones is completely excluded. Secondly, logs can also be installed on a black screed. Using corners, you can eliminate irregularities of several centimeters; there is no need to make a finishing screed. This saves a large number of time and financial resources.

The second method of laying on a concrete screed is to lay the logs directly on it; a material based on modified bitumen is used for insulation.

Laying logs on the ground

The method is used for outbuildings, baths, gazebos, verandas, etc. Wood must be treated with antiseptics. It is better to have a columnar foundation; if you want to make a more durable strip foundation, then it is necessary to provide vents for natural ventilation in advance.

How is this floor made?

Step 1. Remove fertile layer soil. You can use it to fill the beds or level the area in front of the house.

Step 2. Mark the columns. The distance between them is selected taking into account the load and size of the logs. The posts can be made of concrete, block or prefabricated. The dimensions of the supports are approximately 40x40 cm, the burial depth is within 30 cm. A layer of sand ≈ 10 cm thick should be poured onto the bottom and compacted.

Step 3. Fill the supports with concrete. To prepare concrete, you should use two parts crushed stone and three parts sand for one part of cement. Water is added as needed. There is no need to make formwork in the ground; formwork from boards or OSB scraps is installed above the ground level. During the manufacture of formwork, you need to use a level; all edges must be strictly vertical.

Practical advice. It is much easier to make columns from ready-made blocks. Horizontal alignment must be done along the rope. After the outer ones are aligned with the hydraulic level, a rope is pulled between them. Deviations should not exceed ± 1 cm. This variation is eliminated during installation of the log.

Step 4. Proceed to fixing the lags; you also need to start work from the outermost ones. For precise horizontal alignment, you can use shims. It is not advisable to take wedges made of wood; over time, they will dry out and wobble will appear: the floor will begin to creak unpleasantly when walking. Between wooden structures And concrete surfaces It is imperative to lay two layers of roofing felt for reliable waterproofing.

Step 5. After the outermost logs are laid, a rope is stretched between them and all the remaining ones are laid under it. The logs are fixed with metal squares on dowels and screws. To increase stability, it is recommended to install them on both sides. Floor boards can be laid directly on the joists or a subfloor can be laid first. The final choice depends on the characteristics of the operation and purpose of the room.

Always select joists with a safety margin, especially in cases where the installation method involves bending loads. It must be remembered that correcting mistakes made during the construction of flooring always costs much more than carrying out the work quality materials and in compliance with recommended technologies.

Choose your joist boards carefully. They must be absolutely healthy without signs of rot. The presence of through cracks and rotten knots is completely prohibited. If there are large healthy through knots, then you need to install the joists in such a way that there is a stop under them.

When attaching the lags, do not allow the possibility of wobbling.

Most lag oscillations cause very unpleasant squeaks floor coverings while walking. To eliminate such phenomena, you will have to remove floor coverings; this is time-consuming and expensive; it is not always possible to keep the dismantled materials in a suitable condition. reuse condition.

Video - Installation of wooden floors along joists

IN modern construction or private repairs, the question may arise of how to attach the logs to concrete floor- after all, such a base can be called the most suitable for plank covering. The advantage here is that the screed itself is a waterproofing barrier, and when pouring, a film or roofing felt is used, and it is usually insulated with expanded clay or even extruded polystyrene foam.

If you do everything correctly, then the entire installation process will turn out to be simple and even interesting, which we will tell you about now, and also demonstrate a video in this article on our topic.

Installation stages

Concrete

Note. You can pour a cement-sand screed without adding crushed stone or screenings, but its strength will be much lower, especially if the base is soil. Therefore such simplified version Suitable only for those cases where the base is reinforced concrete floors.

  • Let's start with what we need level base and if this is done on the ground, then it must be leveled and compacted, and then a sand-crushed stone cushion must be poured, as they began to do in the top photo. It is better to lay the waterproofing under the pillow, with a fold over the wall along the height of the entire screed, and although many do this on top of the pillow, experience shows that cut-off insulation is more effective at the very bottom.

  • Beacons are installed on the cushion, as required by the instructions for leveling any screed - they are best mounted on a cement-sand mortar, to which a little tile adhesive is sometimes added for elasticity. The distance between the profiles should be approximately 10-15 cm less than the length of your rule that you will use at the moment.
  • For ease of leveling, you can first mark out an approximate line along the perimeter of the room along the height of the screed and install the ends of the beacons along it. But the length of such profiles needs to be leveled with your own hands, because they are flexible; moreover, after installation is completed, check them by tensioning the thread in several places so that their height completely coincides with each other. Start pouring concrete no earlier than the next day, otherwise you will knock down the beacons with mortar and rule.

  • For pouring, it is best for you to use the M300 brand of concrete, the ratio of components for which you see in the table above, although this is not a prerequisite, but advice. However, you can also order any brand at the nearest reinforced concrete unit, but its price, naturally, will be higher.

Recommendation due to the fact that cutting reinforced concrete with diamond wheels and diamond drilling holes in concrete are best made in a hardened solution, then the operation of pouring can begin only after 28 days. Otherwise, the mounting dowels will not hold, and, moreover, laying the wooden floor earlier will lead to dampness.

Lags

Now, after the filling has dried, you need to decide on the distance, since you will fasten the logs to the concrete floor taking into account the thickness of the coating. For example, if it is a plank floor made of oak boards 40-50 mm thick, then the distance between the slats can be about 50 cm, but if it is an inch board or the same OSB (OSB), let it be 12 mm - this will be too much, and the floorboards will sag. In such cases, the distance should be reduced to 40 cm, and sometimes even to 30 cm ().

Considering that the logs will be laid on a concrete screed, that is, they will fit tightly to the base, you will not need thick timber— a slats with a cross section of 50×50 mm will be sufficient. But if the installation is carried out on concrete floors that do not have a flat plane (usually this happens in multi-storey buildings), then use 100×50 mm timber.

So, if your ceilings are installed unevenly, then installation can be done using anchor bolts with adjusting nuts. The alignment principle is clearly visible in the photograph - you simply tighten or unscrew the nut, thereby determining the height of the beam. Considering that it will be 100×50 mm or 100×100 mm, then you will need an anchor of at least 200 mm (

After laying the foundation and structure bottom trim there is a need to attach the logs to the timber. How does this happen? Depending on the type of foundation and base, heavy beams can be attached both to the wall and to the first crown of the frame. In the article we will look at the main methods of installing beams, as well as the types of fastening elements that would ensure reliable fixation of heavy logs.

What is a bottom harness?


The house floor frame includes the following important components:

  • beam;
  • main beams (joists);
  • secondary beams.

During the construction of a house, a pile, strip or monolithic foundation. In the case of assembling the first two, it is assumed that the lower frame will be installed from timber, which would serve as the basis for the subfloor beams. The difficulty of installing beams lies in their weight. They can create a large load on the fastening elements, which will lead to deformation of the base.

That is why a special cut is made in the wall or frame beam into which the beam is inserted. To fix it can be used different kinds fasteners. However, in the process of choosing them, it is very important to consider the degree of their strength and durability.


When installing a subfloor in a house, it is very important to choose only high-quality strapping timber. During the operation of the coating, it will be the one that will experience the heaviest load. And if the quality of the wood or fastening is mediocre, the base can easily become deformed. In the process of assembling timber strapping, experts pay attention to the following points:

  1. The timber must be precisely calibrated and sized;
  2. To eliminate the possibility of wood rotting, the timber must be treated with an antiseptic;
  3. When assembling the harness in frame house it is advisable to give preference to logs made of coniferous wood (they are less hygroscopic);
  4. The timber frame must be laid clearly horizontally, otherwise some of the parts of the structure will experience a large load during operation;
  5. Attach the strapping logs to support pillars possible using clamps, metal brackets, anchors and U-shaped galvanized profiles.

Methods for installing joists in the house


Installation of logs in wooden house opens enough wide choose options for attaching beams to timber. According to the installation method, they can be divided into two types:

  • Wall mounting. This method is often used when installing joists on the second floor of a house. The construction of the floor involves laying the beams “in a spacer”. A special cut is made in the wall along the width of the beams, after which they are inserted into the formed grooves and fixed with fasteners. The advantage of this method is that the beam itself lies completely on the beam and does not create a large load on the anchors and brackets with which it is secured. That is why fixing the joists in the wall is optimal when arranging the floor of the second floor of the house;
  • Attaching to timber. IN in this case the elements can be attached to the first rim of the strapping end-to-end using fasteners. In this case, the timber is not sawed, but simply joined to the logs and secured with anchors or horseshoe-shaped profiles. Also, to install the floor of the first and second floors of the house, a cut is made in the beam itself for fastening to the frame. Technically, it is quite difficult to embed logs into the strapping material, but such structures have a long service life.

Design advantages


Why is a subfloor with beams so popular? Despite the fact that the fastening process itself wooden laths for a foundation it is very difficult, it is still in demand. Why? The beam base provides the floor with the following technical advantages:

  • Improves heat and sound insulation performance;
  • Provides a more uniform distribution of load on the floor, which ensures a long period subfloor services;
  • The timber does not contain synthetic substances and therefore can be used for flooring in residential premises;
  • When arranging a non-ground floor of a high-rise building for finishing floor base it is more advisable to use wooden elements that do not create a large static load on the interfloor floors;
  • Between the frame and the beams you can form air gap which will create optimal conditions for underground ventilation;
  • By using wooden beam You can not only install a heated floor, but also level it if necessary.

Beam mounting options


When repairing the floor of the first and second floor of a private house, various types of fasteners can be used. Each of them has its own advantages and disadvantages. To assess the feasibility of using each of them, let’s consider the most popular types of fasteners in more detail:

  • Perforated brackets. This variety The fasteners are made of sheet steel coated with anti-corrosion compounds. They may have different design depending on where the beam is fixed. Corner options perforated brackets are L-shaped. They are fixed in the joists using powerful self-tapping screws with a cross-section of at least 3 mm;
  • Steel corners. The fasteners securely tighten the timber and beams together, but in the absence of at least some support under the joists they can experience a large load and, as a result, become deformed. You can attach the corner to the frame and beams using anchors or self-tapping screws;
  • U-shaped holders. The holders are horseshoe-shaped overhead grooves into which beams are inserted. They are mounted only in the strapping beam, simulating a standard cut, but at the same time do not violate the integrity of the strapping logs;
  • I drank it through.

This method of attaching lags is one of the most budget-friendly, although labor-intensive. The timber is specially sawed, making cuts along the entire length of the log. A beam is placed in the formed cut and secured either simply with self-tapping screws or with the fasteners that were listed above.


Features of installation of floor joists

An example of connecting bars of dovetail locks

  1. When arranging the floor of the first floor of a house, you need to take care not only of high-quality assembly and fastening of the trim, but also of processing the wooden components of the floor base. The work of attaching beams to the first rim of the trim includes the following features: All wooden elements
  2. the lathing must be treated with antiseptic agents; If the foundation is under rough basis
  3. has a tape or pile device, it is worth taking care of additional waterproofing of both the floor and building materials; When arranging the floor of the second floor, it is more advisable to make a “dovetail” (cut) under the logs, since this method
  4. provides more rigid fastening of logs to the harness;

The methods of attaching the logs to the timber frame are determined by several factors: the number of storeys of the house, the weight of the beams, the moisture content of the base, and the type of foundation. The most reliable way to secure the logs in the frame is to install them in special grooves (cuts), which take on most of the load created by the weight of the beams.

New technologies for laying floors have not been able to displace logs from construction, which are used as a base for wooden floors. The only drawback of logs is that after their installation the height of the room is significantly reduced, so it is more advisable to install logs in houses and apartments with high ceilings.

How the lags are attached to a concrete floor will be described below, but for now it’s worth talking about the advantages of such a flooring device over others. In the space underneath you can place electrical and other cables, as well as pipelines, for the installation of which you do not have to cut walls. In addition, floors on joists turn out to be much warmer not only because they are made of wood, but also because of the ability to lay insulation between the base beams. In addition, additional sound insulation of the room is provided. It is worth adding that concrete base will be the most reliable support for lathing a wooden floor.

Preparing the base before laying joists

Most residential buildings have concrete floors. To lay the logs, they only need to be properly prepared. Of course, such work is quite labor-intensive, but for the long life of the wooden floor it is certainly worth the effort.

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Pouring the foundation for joists in a country house

For those who build houses on suburban areas, we can advise not to lay the logs on the ground, but to arrange them on concrete, because even compacted soil does not have the same strength as concrete floor. The easiest way to pour a concrete base is around the perimeter of the strip foundation.

Concrete is poured onto a compacted and horizontally leveled bedding made of sand, crushed stone or ASG, the surface of which must be carefully smoothed to prevent breakthroughs of the material laid on it. waterproofing film. The ceiling must be reinforced. To do this, reinforcement or rods are placed on top of the waterproofing. There must be a gap between the reinforcing lattice and the bedding so that after pouring the concrete, the reinforcement will be thicker. After the concrete has completely hardened, which lasts about a month, a leveling screed is poured.

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Apartment floor repair

Those who are going to lay joists in apartments where concrete floors were installed during the construction of houses should not “relax” either. More often than not, it turns out that foundation repairs are inevitable. True, in some cases it is possible to lay joists on a concrete floor without precisely leveling it (one of the sections will be devoted to this method), but it is imperative to bring the ceiling into proper shape.

The first priority in preparatory activities- remove old flooring. After this, the old screed is removed. Often it ends up in a dilapidated state. To remove it you will need:

  • perforator;
  • construction hammer;
  • shovel.

Hammer or crowbar old screed is removed to the permanent foundation. Noticeable protrusions also chip off it. After removing construction debris, cracks and depressions in the ceiling are sealed with mortar. After this, the base should be thoroughly dried. In the future, all operations both in apartments and in houses under construction are performed in the same way.

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Preparing the base for leveling

An antiseptic composition and primer are applied to the dried base. After this, the overlap is processed bitumen mastic in 2 layers. The mastic is also applied to the walls to a height equal to the thickness of the future screed. Please note that the smoother you make the screed, the easier it will be for you to install the logs, which all you have to do is lay them on an ideal horizontal surface. Therefore, create a plane before filling it. This operation is simple, but requires patience and precision in marking. To do this you need:

  • painting cord;
  • hydraulic level;
  • dowel-nails;
  • roulette;
  • synthetic threads;
  • gypsum;
  • beacon profiles.

Make a chalk mark on one of the walls (near the corner). Apply it at any height. Using a level, place a point on the opposite end of the wall. Stretch a cord rubbed with chalk between the marks and, pulling it back, mark a horizontal line on the wall. Make lines on the other walls in the same way. Using a tape measure, determine the point on the floor furthest from the chalk line. Place a mark opposite this point on the wall, step back 2-3 cm from it and place another mark. This will be the level of the future screed.

Measure the distance between it and the chalk line and place marks along it near the corners of the walls. Pulling the cord between them, beat off horizontal lines. Along them, drive 3-4 dowel nails into each wall. Pull the thread between the opposite surfaces.

The screed plane is ready. Now you can place beacons under it. They head from the far wall towards the entrance. The extreme profiles are located 15 cm from the walls. The distance between the beacons should be 20 cm less than the length of the rule. The profiles are attached to the base with gypsum cones, the pitch of which is 30 cm. After the gypsum has hardened, the solution is poured and leveled with the rule.

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How to prepare the bars?

While the screed is drying, start preparing the lag. It is best to use coniferous wood for them. When purchasing, choose the straightest beams. When calculating their number, you need to take into account:

  • the distance between the walls of the room (it is better to avoid laying composite logs);
  • the thickness of the floor covering, on which the distance between the beams depends.

The table shows the dependence of the floor joist pitch on its thickness.

The following table provides data on the relationship between the distance between the joists and the thickness of the plywood or OSB floor.

It should be noted that plywood and OSB are superior in strength to solid wood materials.

After purchasing floor joists, they must be thoroughly dried.

Drying of the beams is carried out in a closed area sun rays indoors.

Figure 1. Diagram of an adjustable stand with sound insulation.

Drying time takes 10-12 days. The logs are laid at a certain distance from each other, and transverse bars are laid between their rows (every 0.7-1 m). Gradual drying of wood does not guarantee that all logs will retain their original shape, so they should be purchased with some reserve.

The screed froze and the joists dried out. You can start installing them. In front of it, waterproofing made of polyethylene or bitumen is laid on the floor. The beams are treated with antiseptics and fire retardants. After this, their installation begins.

Wooden floors are a convenient solution. They are environmentally friendly, wear-resistant, natural and have beautiful view. But what should owners of apartments and houses with concrete floors do? How to install wooden floor joists on a concrete floor? In fact, this technology has been proven, and now we will look at it.

Rigid fastening of joists to concrete floors

Floor construction on joists

A floor on joists is a structure that consists of several functional elements, among them mandatory:

  • base;
  • bars;
  • flooring.

Between the beams and the finished floor, a subfloor can also be installed, but only in private houses where there is room for deepening, because such tiers take away the height of the room.

For correct installation Rigid fastening of the base beams is required to avoid deformations and shifts of the finished floor and creaking. Although there are opponents of this technique who give arguments regarding the violation of thermal insulation and the destruction of the concrete screed.

Forming a floating floor, that is, without fastening it to the screed, can lead to shifting of the coating. And this is fraught with additional installation costs.

The assumption of deterioration in sound insulation is unfounded, since during installation materials for insulation and sound insulation are used. And concrete itself is not considered a conductor of sounds. Therefore, after laying the new flooring its sound is unlikely to change.

Another argument regarding the destruction of concrete also does not have a clear justification. If the screed is of high quality, then drilling will not harm it, much less destroy it. If such defects are found, you will have to re-prepare the subfloor, because a poor-quality one will not withstand even minimal loads.


Leveling the floor with self-leveling mixtures

What do you need to know before starting work?

Before attaching logs to a concrete floor, it is recommended to understand the specifics of such work and select necessary materials and tools. The main thing is the choice of wood, that is, beams. The strength and durability of the structure, its performance characteristics, and the load it will withstand depend on this

Material selection criteria

  • Humidity. The material must be dry, with a moisture content of no more than 18%, and this does not depend on the size or type of wood. This humidity is considered natural, so there should be no difficulties in selecting suitable joists for installing boards. When moistened or dried out in the future, the material will “lead” and the beams will deform the finished floor.
  • Type of lumber. In this case, the type of wood is not critical, because the joists have many support points, and their number can be increased if necessary. Moreover, their appearance under the floor doesn't matter. That is, bars of 2 and even 3 grades are suitable. If there is a knot in the area of ​​the material that can affect the strength, an additional support is mounted underneath it.
  • Section. A wooden floor on a concrete base will last a long time, provided correct selection sections of support beams. It should be rectangular, aspect ratio ½ or 2/3. In this case, the logs are mounted on the edge. In this position, the beam is maximally resistant to vertical load. Another condition for choosing a section is the ability to lay required quantity insulation, because in case of installation on a concrete base this is important.
  • Breed. Optimal solution– material coniferous. Pine and even spruce are available and have the required specifications. Larch should be used in rooms where high humidity is possible.
  • Treatment. Before installation, each beam is treated with fire retardants and bioprotection - this will extend their service life.

Waterproofing on concrete floor

Important! After selection, the material is prepared for installation. Each beam is checked for irregularities, bevels, and protrusions. If they are found, they are removed using a plane. It will not be possible to do this when the beams have already been laid.

Tools

Preparation is half the battle, and if you already have the material, now all that’s left is to find the tools to attach the wooden joists to the floor. Since the work involves concrete and wood, the entire set is designed to work with these materials. Minimum list:

  • perforator;
  • anchors - fasteners are selected depending on the size of the beam and its cross-section;
  • self-tapping screws - their diameter is 6 mm, the length also depends on the parameters of the wood, dowels should be included with them;
  • carpentry tools: hacksaw, plane, circular saw.

The second and third items of the set are interchangeable. Self-tapping screws will cost less, and with their help you can install the joists efficiently. As for anchors, although they are more expensive, their number is less square meter less. At the same time, laying the joists will be faster, since you will have to drill less. What to choose depends on time and financial capabilities.


Beam level control

Preparing the base

During installation wooden flooring For logs you need to take care of a level base. It is recommended to pre-level it if there are differences in level. An uneven concrete floor will project an equally uneven wooden floor. It is difficult to properly lay beams on such a base. For alignment, special bulk mixtures, which are also called self-leveling. After using them, the concrete in the base will become smooth without much effort.

Fastening the beams

Attaching the logs to the concrete floor is carried out according to the following algorithm:

  • Waterproofing is laid on the concrete floor. More convenient to use plastic film, but roofing felt will also work. The canvases are secured to each other and placed on the walls to a height of at least 10-15 cm. The joints are taped with special tape.

Floor elements on joists on concrete
  • Next, the beams are laid out with a step determined in advance; it must be uniform, while the distance from the wall to the first beam is no more than 15 cm. The distance between the logs should not exceed 80 cm. It all depends on the area of ​​the room and the load on the future covering. The distance between the joists also depends on the thickness of the floorboard: the thicker it is, the wider the beams can be attached.
  • Before placing logs in a spacious room, you will have to think through a system for joining the support elements together. For this they can be used metal plates, iron corners and other fasteners.
  • The first to attach the logs to the walls. They are laid in the place where they will be placed and leveled; if necessary, the height is adjusted using wooden slats.

Note! To ensure that the beams lie evenly together, it is recommended to use a laser level.


Insulation between joists with expanded clay
  • Now holes for installation are drilled in the base of the concrete floor and in the timber. Fastening is carried out using self-tapping screws or anchors. For the first fasteners, a step of at least 40-60 cm is observed; as for anchors, their number can be reduced by 2 times.
  • After you have managed to attach the first 2 beams, a nylon thread is pulled between them - this is the level of overlap along which the rest need to be mounted. Such a guideline should be stretched at 3-4 points along the length of the beam.

Installation of plywood sheets on wooden joists
  • The remaining logs are attached using the same mechanism as the first two, while maintaining the level set by the nylon thread.

After installation, insulation is carried out along the joists in the space between them and a vapor barrier is laid. The base is now ready for installation of the floorboards.