Mounting the battery to the wall. Installing heating radiators with your own hands: instructions for an apartment. Calculation of the required number of sections

31.10.2019

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It is extremely important to correctly install heating radiators. The process of attaching them to the wall largely depends on the material from which they are made. bearing structures. Below we will look in detail at several ways to mount a heating radiator on the wall.

General information

Not only their aesthetics, but also the degree of heat transfer depends on the quality of installation of batteries. Therefore, the installation must be carried out taking into account the requirements of SNiP:

Of course, the batteries must be fastened firmly and securely, since the durability of the device and the heat pipe depends on this.

Installation

Preparation

Before attaching the heating radiator to the wall, you need to do some preparatory work:

First of all, you need to prepare. The diagram must indicate not only the location of the devices, but also the heat pipes, as well as all other elements of the system.
Then you need to apply markings to the areas where the devices will be located.
Next, the devices themselves are prepared - they need to be removed from the packaging, the plugs and the Mayevsky tap must be screwed in.

This completes the preparatory work.

Installation of cast iron batteries

First of all, let's look at how the fastening is done cast iron radiators to the wall, as they remain one of the most common to this day.

So, this process is performed in the following sequence:

Fastening cast iron heating radiators to the wall is complicated by their heavy weight. Therefore, it is necessary to use special reinforced fasteners for them.

Installation work begins with marking the fasteners. In this case, their position must be checked with a level.

Then you need to drill holes for the fasteners; for this you can use a hammer drill.

Then you should hammer dowels into the holes and screw into them the brackets on which the device is suspended.

After installing the battery, check its position with a building level. If there is a deviation, the position should be corrected. To do this, you can place a rubber gasket on the bracket.

After this, you just need to connect the device to the heat pipe. Below we will take a closer look at how this is done.

Note! For devices up to one square meter in size, one bracket is sufficient. If the size is larger, then one bracket is added to each square meter.

This completes the installation process. If you need to attach heating radiators to a wall made of aerated concrete, you should use special mounting strips rather than hooks.

Moreover, for their fastening you should use special dowels for aerated concrete. For one square meter At least three of these strips should be installed.

Another installation option cast iron batteries– this is their installation on the floor using special legs. As a rule, the legs are fixed with screws or dowels to the floor and at the same time hold the battery using special adjustable brackets or chains. It should be noted that this installation method looks original and attractive, especially in classic interiors.

Note! Often installation work engaged in companies that sell heating appliances. However, in this case their price increases significantly. Therefore, it is more advisable to do the work yourself.

Installation of bimetallic and aluminum batteries

Now let's look at how the fastening is carried out aluminum radiators to the wall, as well as bimetallic batteries. This process not much different from the fastenings of cast iron appliances, however, special brackets are used for these purposes.

The process is carried out in this order:

Before attaching bimetallic radiator to the wall, attach the brackets and mark the locations of the dowels.
Next, holes are made for the dowel-nails, after which the dowels themselves are driven in.
Then the brackets are attached and dowel-nails are driven into the dowels. Each bracket for attaching the radiator to the wall must be firmly fixed. As in the previous case, the position of the brackets must be checked with a building level.

Then the bimetallic radiators are directly attached to the wall, which are suspended on the installed brackets.

Note! Polyethylene film, in which the products are supplied, should not be removed until installation work is completed.

Here, in fact, is all the information on how to attach the radiator to the wall. It must be said that bimetallic and aluminum panels can also be installed on the floor using special racks.

The latter come in several types, some of them are attached to the floor, and some are fixed to the wall, but the main load still falls on the floor. This method of fastening is great solution, if the walls are made, for example, of plasterboard.

Advice! Before mounting the device on the wall, it is advisable to fix penofol (foamed polyethylene covered on one side with foil). The material should be positioned with foil facing the room. This will increase heat transfer, as heat will be reflected.
On at this stage it is important to ensure tightness threaded connections. For sealing, you can use flax with heat-resistant sealant or fum tape.

Next, the adapter or thermal valve is connected to the pipeline, usually with a threaded connection.

It is advisable to make a jumper (bypass) between the incoming and outgoing demand.

After connecting the batteries yourself, you should fill them with coolant and turn on the system. The taps must be opened smoothly to avoid water hammer and clogging of the internal section.

In the process of filling the instrument system, it is necessary to release air through the Mayevsky taps.

Then you need to turn on the heating. When testing the system, it is advisable to turn on the heating to maximum temperature and at the same time carefully inspect all connections. If drops of coolant are detected, it is necessary to turn off the system, drain the water and seal the connection.

Note! During the connection process, you cannot clean adjacent surfaces with abrasive materials, as this will lead to leaky connections.

This completes the battery connection process.

Conclusion

Fastening heating radiators to the wall is not difficult at all - to do this, you need to install brackets at the same level, in accordance with the requirements of SNiP. If the battery cannot be mounted on the wall, you can use floor stands. Particular attention must be paid to connecting heating devices.

Read more useful information on the designated topic can be found in the video in this article.

The creation and repair of a heating system, as a rule, involves the replacement or installation heating devices. Fortunately, if you wish, you can carry out this work yourself, saving a lot of money. In what order should the installation of heating radiators be carried out, what is necessary to complete the work and what nuances may await during repairs - we will tell you about this in our article.

What do you need for installation?

Installation of any heating radiator does not take place without purchasing certain Supplies and use special devices. At the same time, regardless of the type, the set necessary materials almost always remains identical. The differences are only in small points, for example, larger plugs are used to install a cast iron battery, an automatic air vent is placed above the system, and the Mayevsky tap is not used at all.

Unlike cast iron products, the installation of bimetallic and aluminum heating radiators is carried out in the same way.

As for the placement of steel panel products, the installation procedure has slight differences affecting the moment of hanging the battery. IN in this case the kit must include brackets, in addition, with reverse side must be present metal temples, by means of which the heating device is installed by the hooks of the brackets.

Shut-off valves

During the installation of a heating radiator, a pair of shut-off or ball valves is also required. In the first case, they must be regulated. The products are placed at the output and input of each battery.

Ordinary Ball Valves are used for emergency repairs to turn off and dismantle the radiator, for example, for a moment heating season. With this approach, even if something goes wrong during the repair, the system will still function without the part being repaired. The main advantage of this solution is the low cost of ball valves. But on the other hand, you deprive yourself of the ability to adjust heat transfer.

Shut-off control valves do almost the same thing, with one exception - they can also adjust the intensity of coolant flow. Of course, here the price will be slightly higher, but this will make it possible to change the heat transfer in the future. In addition, externally such devices look much better, especially in angular and straight versions. The result is a neater binding.

If necessary, near the ball valve on the coolant supply, you can install thermostat. It is a small element that makes it possible to adjust the heat transfer of the battery. However, if your heating radiator itself does not heat the room well, then you should not install a thermostat! Otherwise, the flow will decrease and the battery will heat up even worse.

Today there are different kinds thermostats, ranging from electronic automatic to conventional mechanical. The latter, by the way, are used in homes more often than others.

Stub

At lateral connection Radiators usually have 4 outlets. One of them is covered with a plug, the second is equipped with a Mayevsky tap, the remaining two are allocated for the return and supply pipelines. Like the vast majority of modern heating radiators, the product is usually painted with white enamel, pleasantly complementing the interior of the house.

Automatic air vent or Mayevsky tap

These elements are small devices for releasing air accumulated in the radiator. Installation is carried out on the collector; it is required when using bimetallic and aluminum radiators. The dimensions of the device are significantly smaller than the diameter of the collector, which may require an additional adapter. However, Mayevsky taps are usually supplied with adapters. The only thing that is required from the buyer is to know exactly the diameter of the collector.

As for automatic air vents, they are also installed on radiators. Compared to Mayevsky taps, they have larger dimensions, which is why they are made only of nickel and brass. Over time, air vents may become coated with enamel, damaging appearance radiator Based on this, the installation of these elements is not carried out so often.

Additional tools and materials

In addition to the listed elements, for installing and hanging heating radiators you will definitely need brackets and hooks. Moreover, their number will directly depend on the dimensions of the battery itself:

If the dimensions of the product do not exceed 1.2 meters or the number of sections does not exceed 8, then a pair of fixation points will be sufficient - one at the bottom and one at the top;

Every next 5-6 sections or 50 centimeters of length require the use of an additional retainer at the bottom and top.

To seal the connections, you will need fum tape, plumbing paste or linen winding.

At the same time, during work you cannot do without dowels, a level and a drill with drill bits. In addition, you will need special equipment for fastening fittings and pipes, although this largely depends on the type of pipe.

Radiator mounting location

It is customary that heating systems are located under the window. This is necessary to cut off cold air from the window with warm air rising upward. You can avoid window fogging due to the dimensions of the heating device, where the width should not exceed 70-75 percent of the window width. During installation, the following parameters must be taken into account:

The distance from wall to wall should be from 2 to 5 centimeters;
In the center of the window opening, where there is maximum tolerance should not exceed 2 cm;
The gap to the window sill is 10-12 centimeters;
Between the floor and the radiator - 8-12 centimeters.

Battery installation procedure

Now let's talk about how to properly install heating radiators. The work will be much easier if the surface of the wall behind the battery is as smooth as possible.

The middle of the opening is marked on the site, and a horizontal line is drawn under the window sill at a distance of 10-12 cm. The heating device will be aligned along this line in the future. The brackets should be placed in such a way that the top corresponds to the drawn line, in other words, remains strictly horizontal. This arrangement is acceptable for apartments and systems using forced circulation . Along the coolant flow in systems with natural circulation a small slope of 1-1.5 percent is performed. These values cannot be exceeded, otherwise stagnation will form.

Floor installation

Typically, heating equipment is installed on walls, but it happens that they are not able to support even light-weight aluminum products. This happens when covering walls with plasterboard or plaster. lightweight concrete. In these cases, floor installation is used.

Some types of steel and cast iron radiators are initially equipped with legs, but they do not always suit the owners in terms of their characteristics and appearance.

Bimetallic and aluminum products can also be installed on the floor. This provides special brackets, which are fixed to floor surface. Next is mounted heating equipment, the lower collector is installed on the legs in an arc. The legs themselves come in either a fixed leg or an adjustable one. Depending on the material, fastening can be done using dowels or nails.

Fixing to the wall

Hooks are selected depending on the type of dowels. A hole is drilled in the wall the right size, where a plastic dowel is subsequently installed. Next, the hook is screwed in. The gap between the heating device and the wall is adjusted with a hook by screwing/unscrewing.

When installing hooks, it is worth considering that most of the load will come to the top of the structure. In this case, the bottom is necessary only to hold the system in in the right position. Installation is made 1.5 centimeters below the lower manifold. If this is not done, then in the future the radiator simply will not be able to be hung properly.

The brackets are placed in the place where the installation will take place. For this purpose, the first step is to attach the battery to the wall, after which the points of contact of the brackets are marked. Next, holes are drilled, dowels are driven in and brackets are screwed in. Having placed all the fasteners, the battery is then hung.

Methods for piping heating radiators

Installation heating systems carried out with subsequent connection to the pipeline. There are 3 main connection methods:

Diagonal;
One-sided;
Saddle.

When choosing radiators with bottom connection There's not much to choose from. This is due to the fact that each manufacturer himself indicates the supply and installation instructions, which must be followed! Otherwise, there will simply be no heat in the house. When choosing systems with side connections, there are noticeably more installation methods.

Saddle connection

At hidden wiring pipes or lower wiring, installation by this method is considered less noticeable in terms of the finished result and more convenient.

At lower single-pipe wiring and saddle connection, as a rule, 2 methods are used - without a bypass and with it. The taps can be installed without a bypass; if desired, the radiator is dismantled and a temporary jumper is placed between the taps.

Much less often this type connection is used when vertical wiring, for example, in risers in multi-storey buildings. This is explained increased heat losses, which amount to 12-15 percent.

Diagonal connection

In terms of heat transfer, a diagonal connection of heating radiators is considered the most optimal of all. Heat transfer is considered the largest.

In apartments with vertical risers and a single-pipe system finished result it turns out not to be the most attractive, although many residents still put up with it because of the increased efficiency.

It is important to note that a bypass will again be needed with a single-pipe system!

One way connection

Most often used in apartments one-way connection. It can be single-pipe, which is most likely, or double-pipe. Today in apartments they are most often used metal pipes, and therefore it makes sense to analyze the method of tying steel pipes. Besides the pipes required diameter, for installation you will also need a pair of tees, ball valves and a drive.

Everything connects. Bypass is considered mandatory when using single pipe system . Using it, it is possible to turn off the radiator without the need to bleed the system. You cannot install a tap on the bypass, otherwise you will block the flow of coolant, greatly upsetting your neighbors. And in this case it will be difficult to get rid of a fine.

Threaded joints are sealed with linen winding or fum tape. Next, paste is applied on top. There is no need to use a lot of winding when screwing the tap into the manifold. If there is a large amount of it, the formation of microcracks cannot be ruled out, which will lead to further damage in the future. This point remains relevant for almost all heating products, not counting cast iron appliances.

The bypass can also be welded if you have the appropriate tools and skills.

WITH two-pipe system bypass is not required. The return is connected at the bottom, the supply at the top.

This type of connection is rarely used when pipes are located at the bottom, for example, when they are laid on the floor. This is due to not the most attractive looking. Instead, a diagonal connection is more often used.

Bimetallic radiators are capable of providing good heat transfer if installed correctly.

How to place a bimetallic device

To minimize heat loss, the device must be located:

IN 8-12 cm from the floor. If it is less, there will be difficulties with cleaning, and the floor will also become very hot. If it is too high, zones with cold air will form near the floor.
IN 10-12 cm from the window sill. If this distance is reduced, convection will worsen. This will result in a drop in the thermal power of the bimetallic radiator.
IN 3-5 cm from the wall or a heat-reflecting shield placed on it. A shorter distance will worsen convection. It will also cause dust to accumulate on the wall.
By center of the window opening. The center of the radiator and the center of the window should be on the same line. There may be a deviation if it does not exceed 20 mm.

Also important. She should be bigger 70-75% of the window opening width. Thanks to this, the heated air that will rise from the radiator will be able to create the necessary to stop the cold air thermal curtain. If the length of the radiator is 50% of the width of the window opening, then the room except thermal air cold ones will also arrive. This will create cold zones in certain parts of the room.

Required fastening

The bimetallic radiator has Not heavy weight(often 10 sections with a center distance of 500 mm weigh 17-20 kg), so it does not require special fastening. Manufacturers have created the most suitable brackets and other types of mounting for such batteries.

Features of brackets:

The metal used is relatively thin.
Their design resembles a corner, on one side of which there are holes for screws, and on the other there is a recess for the collector.
There may be one or two notches. In the second case, they are located above and below the long side. Thanks to this, the bracket can be placed both on the left and on the right.

Marking mounting locations

The easiest way requires the help of a friend. It provides for the following actions:

Place it on the floor under the window with your own hands wooden block thickness 8-12 cm.
A radiator is placed on the block. In this case, its center must coincide with the center of the window opening.
The top of the radiator is slightly tilted forward and the end of one bracket is inserted between the sections. The second process must be done by an assistant.
Place the radiator vertically. The bracket (it must be supported by an assistant) should touch the wall.
Use a pencil to mark the points where you need to make holes for the dowels. These marks must be on the correct horizontal line. The horizontal position must be checked with a level.

In this way, marks are made for all brackets.

Regarding the number of upper brackets, then for 10 sections there must be 2 fastenings. Next, one bracket is added for every 10 sections. The situation with the lower ones is slightly different: it is allowed to use 1 bracket for 2 top. This is because the upper ones will experience the main pressure. The lower ones are intended only to support verticality.

If there is already a ready-made piping, then the mark is made after the radiator has been attached to it (they also take into account the distance that the shut-off valve will take). At the same time, we must not forget that the top tube should have a slight slope towards the battery. The lower one should be inclined in the direction from the bimetallic structure. This will allow air to move in and out of the sections easily. Incorrectly angled pipes will allow air to accumulate inside the radiator. This will reduce heat transfer.

Read also: Cast iron or bimetallic batteries

Carrying out installation

Installation of a radiator in an apartment or house is carried out in the following sequence:

Make the markings with your own hands and carry out fastening installation. The second procedure is carried out according to a simple scheme: holes are drilled, dowels are inserted, brackets are attached and they are secured with screws. If the mount is floor-mounted, then it is secured to the floor with screws. Sometimes it is fixed on the bottom of the wall.
Installation of components. They install a device that removes air. It can be automatic or manual. It is placed with your own hands on the upper manifold opposite the hole to which the inlet pipe can be connected. A plug is placed on one of the collectors. These elements are installed according to the battery connection diagram. If the diameters of the collectors and pipes are different, adapters are mounted on the free holes.
If the heating system of the apartment is single-pipe, then it is necessary to install a bypass - an additional pipe that connects the inlet and outlet pipes. Ball valves must be installed at the ends.
Execute installation of control and shut-off valves. The control valve is a valve with a thermal head. At this stage, only the valve is screwed in. It is placed on the hole to which the inlet pipe will be connected. The thermal head is set aside. If such a valve is used, place on the outlet hole shut-off valve. A replacement for this pair of fittings are ball valves. Shut-off valves are mounted as follows: fittings with American fittings are screwed into the radiator holes, and the base is fixed to the pipes. If the pipes are metal, tow is wound on the threads.
Hang the radiator on the brackets. Before and during this process, remove protective film from a bimetallic device is not required. She will protect the beauty of the product as long as all work continues. It is necessary to tear the film in those places that will come into contact with the fastener.
Connect inlet and outlet pipe. They are connected depending on the selected connection scheme. The process involves attaching the base of a tap or valve to a pipe with an American connection and tightening the American connection with your own hands. The connection may be different, because not every shut-off valve has an American connection. It may be that first they connect to the radiator shut-off valves, and then it is connected to the pipes. In this case, they can be connected by crimping, welding or under pressure.
Pressure testing the radiator and the entire heating system circuit. In this case, at first the taps are almost completely closed. Then they gradually open. A sudden opening can cause water hammer.

The heating radiator mounting bracket is the main element that ensures reliable installation of the product. Even the lightest aluminum batteries when filled with water, they place a significant load on the load-bearing surfaces, and there is nothing to say about cast iron products. So we can’t do without high-quality fasteners and their correct installation, so beginners should study the recommendations below very carefully.

Types of fasteners

Wall

Traditionally, heating system radiators are installed on walls using various devices. And if earlier, when exclusively cast iron products were used for heating, the range of mounting brackets was very limited, today on sale you can find both traditional “cast iron” hooks and more accurate fastenings for steel radiators, and brackets for aluminum models.

Depending on what kind of battery you will mount, you need to choose and installation fixtures. In the table below we will describe only the most common ones, since in some cases the use of homemade models is allowed.

Radiator type	Mounting options
Cast iron	Cast iron holders, which are produced by casting. Steel adjusting fasteners that allow you to adjust the position of the radiator vertically and horizontally, as well as change the gap between the battery and the wall. Pin-type steel brackets. Steel holders welded to a metal strip. The length of the strip corresponds to the distance between the upper and lower axes.
Aluminum, steel and bimetallic	Steel corner fasteners. Steel dowels with hooks, designed for penetration into the wall by 100 - 150 mm. Universal wall mounts with plastic covers to prevent damage to metal parts.

However, it is not enough to choose the right parts - you should also calculate how many fasteners are needed for the heating radiator. As a rule, the installation instructions contain the necessary information, but if we are simply installing old battery, then the easiest way is to stick to the standard ratio - at least 1 bracket per 1 m2 of radiator area.

Note!
The total number of attachment points should not be less than two, and in most cases for installation standard devices This is exactly the amount that is enough to ensure reliable fixation.

Floor

In some cases, the mount for cast iron radiators cannot be securely fixed in the wall. Most often this is due to insufficient load-bearing capacity of the base: concrete may crumble, cladding may interfere, etc. They will help us here floor models, which are used either as additional support or as the main fixing structure.

The rack for mounting the radiator is not very complex:

The base is made of metal round or. The pipe size is selected so that it can withstand the load without signs of deformation.
At the bottom of the rack bracket, a steel plate is welded - the base. Holes are made in the plate for the fasteners with which the rack will be fixed to the ceiling.

Note!
Lightweight radiators can also be installed on finished floor, and on the rough flooring, but it is advisable to fix brackets for heavy cast-iron batteries on a monolithic concrete base, followed by pouring a screed over the base plate.

Fastening hooks can be attached either by welding or using bolts. The second option is less reliable, however bolted connection makes it possible to adjust the installation height of the radiator.

In the presence of welding machine and the skills to work with it, such racks can be made with your own hands. However, there are models on sale designed for the most different batteries, especially since the price for most of them is quite affordable.

Installation method

Selecting a position for the radiator

If we have chosen the installation method and purchased the appropriate brackets, then we should figure out how to mark the mounts for the radiators. The thing is that its efficiency, and therefore our comfort, depends on the position of the heating device. And heating costs.

When choosing a location and marking for fasteners, follow these tips:

We install the batteries at a distance from the entrance to the room, on the wall or under the roof.
When installing in a window sill niche, make sure that the width of the radiator is about 75% of the width of the niche.

To ensure effective heat transfer, we mark the wall for mounting so that the radiator is located below 100 mm from the floor. It is also important to maintain a gap between the top edge of the battery and the window sill board, the optimal value of which is 70 - 150 mm.
The distance from the wall ensures heat dissipation from the rear surface of the radiator. Its recommended size is from 25 to 60 mm.

Advice!
If the radiator is located close to the wall and is completely covered by a window sill board, then holes need to be made in it to allow warm air to escape.
Only then can we protect the glass from constant condensation during the cold season.

Wall mounting

After marking, you can begin installation work.

We will begin the description of this process with the wall installation algorithm:

Using a punch, we make starting holes in the finishing and plaster layer using the applied markings. These holes are needed to ensure that the drill does not move during drilling.

Using a hammer drill and a drill of the required diameter with pobedite surfacing, we begin to drill sockets for fasteners. The depth of the socket should be slightly greater than the length of the dowel used.
We hammer plastic or metal anchors into the drilled and cleaned sockets.
We screw fasteners for cast iron heating radiators into sleeves installed in the walls. We fix the plate brackets using locking screws, having previously aligned them vertically and horizontally.

Advice!
We control the position of the brackets using a level, if necessary, adjusting it with hammer blows.

After all the fasteners are installed, we put safety pads on them and hang the radiator. Right installed elements must withstand the load without deformation.

Floor mounting

As we noted above, sometimes (for example, if you need to attach radiators to sandwich panels or other weak surfaces) bearing capacity the foundation is missing.

In this case, we move on to floor installation:

By applied to the floor or concrete floor Markings set the mounting posts. We carefully align them relative to the wall and each other.

Advice!
The racks must be strictly vertical, so if necessary, the plane of the floor under them should be adjusted.

Through the holes in the bases of the racks we apply markings for fasteners.
Using the markings, we drill sockets for installing anchors V.
We hammer plastic sleeves into the drilled holes.(metal ones are rarely used for this purpose). Install vertical supports and fasten them to the floor with screws.
If necessary, fix the hooks at the required height and put the radiator on them. After this, you can fill the screed, which will mask the attachment point and serve as an additional reinforcing element.

One of important aspects installation of heating system elements is to install the battery on the wall. At first glance, the elementary questions of how and how to fix this device on a vertical surface are not so straightforward and therefore deserve special attention. This is exactly what we will talk about in this article.

Radiator installation

The instructions for connecting devices to the pipeline system and fastening heating radiators to the wall depend equally on:

From battery type selected for heating.
The material from which they are built load-bearing walls , because it is on them that in most cases these products are fixed.

Those who decide to create a heating system with their own hands should understand this issue in detail.

Types of heating devices and features of their installation

The classic mounting of batteries is carried out on the wall under the windows to provide a thermal barrier to the cold air coming from the glazing. The type of fastening is selected taking into account the weight of a particular heating product.

Cast iron models

Cast iron batteries are the heaviest of all known heating devices.

At the same time, they have a number undeniable advantages, explaining the popularity of cast iron heating products:

The thick-walled sections of such a unit retain heat well and are still quite long time they release it into the room even when the coolant supply is turned off.
Cast iron is highly resistant to corrosion and therefore radiators made from this material are as durable as possible.

The disadvantages of cast iron appliances include their heavy weight and significant massiveness. However, modern manufacturers have learned to make quite elegant products from of this material, not only efficiently warming the room, but also having aesthetically attractive forms.

Attaching cast iron radiators to the wall is done in various ways:

For walls made of brick, cinder block, concrete, it is possible to mount them using special brackets or bent pins made of thick metal on simple dowels.

For wooden walls and plasterboard structures will have to be built floor base, which will bear the main load. And attaching cast iron heating radiators to the wall will perform a supporting function.

To install the heating device you will need:

Drill or hammer drill with attachments appropriate for the wall material.
Building level.
Brackets.
Dowels.

The rules for attaching a heating radiator to the wall are common to all types of devices:

The distance from the top of the device to the window sill is about 100 mm.
From the floor to the bottom surface of the battery -100-120 mm (this is important especially in cases where you have a “sensitive” floor covering).
From the wall to the battery 30-50 mm.

Important!
When these parameters change, the heat output of the heating device is significantly reduced.

The number of fasteners is calculated according to the dimensions of the battery (minimum two fastenings at the top and one supporting one at the bottom). This is for a six-section radiator mounted on a concrete or brick surface.
For sectional devices, the brackets are located in the spaces between the sections.
Markings for fastenings are carried out in compliance with the vertical and horizontal directions of the future product (use a level).

Attention!
It is necessary to provide a slight horizontal slope to prevent the accumulation of air bubbles in the upper part of the product.

Strictly ensure that the inlets on the battery are located in accordance with the heating main.

The instructions for the workflow are very simple, so anyone can do this work with their own hands:

Marking the battery mounting points is done with a simple pencil using building level and rulers.
Next, holes of the required diameter are drilled in the designated locations.
Dowels are inserted into them, into which the brackets are then screwed; they must be securely fixed (immovable).

It's time to “try on” the battery. If all the rules for mounting the device are followed, and it is well adjusted to the mounts without wobbling, you can continue attaching the radiator to the wall - fix it with.

Steel radiators

Heating appliances made of steel:

They are much less massive, which makes their installation much easier.
They warm up very quickly and begin the process of heat transfer.

Steel batteries come in sectional and panel types. Sectional models are hung, like their cast-iron counterparts, with the only difference being that the bracket for attaching the radiator to the wall is less powerful.

For fastening panel products to back wall brackets are welded and hung on the brackets. The number of staples depends on the size of the panel (minimum four pieces).

Advice!
The markings must be done with extreme precision so that the welded brackets fall onto the installed brackets without effort.
In addition, the wall surface must be perfectly level.

With a small weight, fastening heating radiators to the wall can be made easier and performed using a set of special brackets and stops. With this method, the upper hinges of the device are hung on the brackets, and the lower one is fixed in a device that rests either on the floor or on the wall (more often).

For your information!
In this way, it is better to mount heating radiators to a wall made of aerated concrete.

Aluminum radiators

Aesthetic and neat aluminum models:

They have a wonderful appearance.
Very low weight, which makes attaching aluminum radiators to the wall quick and easy.
Designed for operating pressure in the system up to 20 bar.
Characterized by maximum indicator heat transfer.

Unfortunately, aluminum heating devices are prone to corrosion and quickly deteriorate at the junction with other metals.

Bimetallic radiators

Truly, universal type radiators - bimetallic heating devices:

Unite in themselves best quality steel and aluminum batteries.
Mounting bimetallic radiators to the wall is easy and simple.
Steel inner surface product reduces the risk of destruction due to corrosion.
Bimetallic radiators are designed for the optimal pressure level in heating networks.

Interesting!
When choosing heating devices, professionals advise choosing bimetallic products.

Before attaching the bimetallic radiator to the wall, markings are made in accordance with the dimensions of the device. To stone and concrete walls fastening is carried out on brackets by analogy with the technology described above.

For structures made of plasterboard and other lightweight materials, you need to use double-sided fasteners.

If you still have doubts about the reliability of attaching radiators to the walls so that they do not sag under their own weight, purchase and install floor stands. They will help distribute the weight of the device and partially relieve the load from the wall mounts.

Conclusion

Now you know how to mount a heating radiator on a wall without any difficulties, if, of course, you have all the tools necessary for this process. But this is not a problem either, since there are stores that provide tools for rent, if you do not want to buy a hammer drill for yourself, but still cannot do without it.

The price of the service is low, and you can easily complete the task in a couple of days. In the video presented in this article you will find Additional information on this topic.