Attaching an acrylic bathtub to the wall. Instructions for assembling the frame of the Aquanet Nord acrylic bathtub. Installing a bathtub on a solid brick base

Attaching an acrylic bathtub to the wall. Instructions for assembling the frame of the Aquanet Nord acrylic bathtub. Installing a bathtub on a solid brick base

When carrying out renovations in the bathroom and replacing plumbing fixtures yourself, such a problem as the correct installation of the font necessarily arises, since such aspects as comfort during water procedures and the service life of the entire structure depend on how well this operation is performed. Correct installation of an acrylic bathtub with your own hands consists of a precise sequence of actions, which include assembling the structure itself, preparing the site for installation, and the installation itself. In this article we will look at options on how to properly install an acrylic bathtub.

One of the main positive qualities of such structures, which sets them apart from outdated metal models, is their low weight; this quality makes it possible to independently install acrylic bathtubs without the help of professionals. Installing an acrylic bathtub is a rather complicated process, since this material is very sensitive to mechanical damage from sharp or heavy objects. Also, you should not delay installation for a long time due to the fact that a bathtub made of this material has one unpleasant property: during improper or long-term storage it can change its original shape.

Preparatory work and installation options for an acrylic bathtub

Before installing an acrylic bathtub with your own hands, you need to prepare the place and the bathtub itself for installation, remove all unnecessary items from the bathroom, dismantle old equipment, and prepare the necessary tools and materials for installation work. You will need:

  • bath;
  • legs or frame on which the bowl will be attached;
  • hammer;
  • Bulgarian;
  • perforator;
  • mounting sealant;
  • level;
  • adjustable wrench;
  • insulating tape;
  • mounting tape (construction tape);
  • corrugated pipe;
  • spare parts for attaching an acrylic bathtub to a wall or floor.

Before installing a new acrylic bathtub, you need to do some preparatory work:

  • first turn off the water supply to the central tap;
  • then dismantle the old bathtub;
  • then crack or cut out the old drain;
  • clean the sewer hole;
  • insert a new corrugated pipe into the sewer socket;
  • coat the joint between the corrugation and the sewer hole with sealant;
  • level the floor for an acrylic bathtub.

Now you can proceed directly to installing new plumbing.

Installation of a new acrylic bathtub is carried out using one of the following methods:

  • on a metal frame;
  • on the supporting legs;
  • on brick supports;
  • on a brick podium;
  • combined installation method.

Rules and instructions for installing acrylic plumbing products allow any of the specified methods to attach the bathtub to the wall or floor, based on its type and model. So, if the kit includes a metal frame, then it is better to install the font on it, using the included instructions. And if special legs are sold along with the bathtub, then the acrylic bathtub must be installed on the legs, since such a support is designed specifically for this model, taking into account the areas of greatest stress.

Let's take a closer look at how to fix an acrylic bathtub using each of the 5 listed methods.


Installing an acrylic bathtub on supporting legs

This is the fastest and easiest installation method that does not require a set of tools or special skills. Assembling a bathtub with legs is easy if you use the instructions that come with the product. If, according to the instructions or during installation work, it becomes necessary to drill the font, then this should be done with a wood drill at low speeds. Mounting on the support legs consists of screwing the legs to the bowl and adjusting them in place.

  1. Screwing the legs. On the lower part of the bathtub body there are special seats marked with stickers or corresponding symbols. To make it easier to assemble an acrylic bathtub yourself, some manufacturers supply products with pre-drilled holes. And if they are not there, then you need to make these holes yourself. Then the legs are screwed into these holes, otherwise the load will not be distributed evenly and the bath will quickly fail.
  2. Adjusting the support. The design of almost all bathtub legs provides the ability to adjust the height of the support in order to attach the bowl with the desired slope using a level. First, the bathtub is installed against the wall, and then the legs are tightened, setting the desired height. After this, they begin horizontal leveling when the level is installed on the side of the bath in a horizontal position. If necessary, the legs can be tightened up or down using a wrench.

When the optimal performance is established, the legs are fixed with nuts in the desired position. Sometimes, for greater reliability, the bathtub is screwed to the wall with special plastic or metal hooks, which are previously mounted strictly horizontally along the entire perimeter of the bathtub into the wall at the same distance from each other. The hooks are screwed into the wall cladding.


Installation on a metal frame

The most reliable way, relatively simple, the main thing is to strictly follow the instructions for assembling the product. In this case, the acrylic bathtub is installed as follows:

  1. First of all, you need to assemble the frame, according to the instructions, using the long screws that are included in the kit.
  2. The product is turned on its side or upside down to make it convenient to secure the frame.
  3. Then the frame is installed on the acrylic bathtub in the center of the bottom, and the legs are attached to the support.
  4. Two supports are fixed to the frame in the central part, two more along the wall, and three supports along the outer edge of the font.
  5. The legs are then adjusted to the same height so that the height of the bath does not exceed 65 cm for safety and ease of use.
  6. After this, the product is turned over and checked with a building level to see if the bathtub is level.
  7. Then the siphon and overflow are connected.
  8. If necessary, the font is attached to the wall using hooks or metal corners.
  9. Finally, a decorative screen is installed.

An installation option is also possible when the frame on legs is mounted directly on the floor, and then the bathtub is mounted on top of the fixed frame. Most often, the installed frame does not require additional fastenings, but if it seems unreliable to you, you can strengthen it with additional fastening hooks, which were mentioned above.


How to install a bathtub on brick supports?

If a metal frame is not available, the installation of an acrylic bathtub is done on a brick podium. This method is not economical, despite the fact that the structure is particularly durable, due to the fact that it requires a huge amount of brick. Moreover, an excessive load is created on the floors, due to the rather large weight of the finished podium. To reduce the cost of construction, as well as to reduce the load on the floor, it is recommended to install an acrylic bathtub on brick pillars. To create such a structure, you can get by with a small amount of mortar and 12 bricks.

Installation is carried out in the following sequence:

  1. Without removing the protective film, the bathtub is brought into the room and installed at the site of future installation, after which the location of the columns is marked.
  2. According to the length of the bathtub, mark where 2-3 columns will be located, where one is located in the middle of the bottom, and the other two are at the edges of the bend of the bathtub.
  3. After taking out the bathtub, begin laying out columns 17-19 cm long so that the height of the bathtub above the floor level is no more than 60-65 cm.
  4. Allow the masonry to dry for 12-24 hours, after which a siphon is connected to the bathtub and pushed tightly against the wall and installed on previously made posts.
  5. Using silicone sealant, fill the gap between the posts and the bottom of the container.
  6. Using metal hooks and corners, the edges of the bathtub are attached to the wall.

Experienced specialists recommend applying polyurethane foam to the lower surface of the acrylic bathtub before installation; this little trick will reduce the thermal conductivity and resonating ability of the material. Also, the use of polyurethane foam during installation reduces the likelihood of damage to the bottom of the acrylic bathtub by brick supports.

Installation method on a brick podium

If there are no metal supports for a particular model, installation is done on a brick podium. According to experts, this method is in no way inferior in terms of reliability to the previous option; the only way it differs is that this method requires more time and is somewhat “dirtier” than the previous option. Installation of an acrylic bathtub on a podium is done using a saw, polyurethane foam, bricks, mortar and moisture-resistant plywood.

Installation is done following the following technology:

  1. The bathtub is temporarily placed in place, while the protective film should not be removed from it, after which the place where the drain hole will be located is marked. This operation is necessary in order to leave a gap in the podium for connecting the drain.
  2. Under the entire supporting part, using mortar, brickwork is made to such a height that the sides are at a height of 60 cm relative to the floor level. You also need to take into account that there will still be 2-3 cm of polyurethane foam between the masonry and the bathtub.
  3. A frame cut from moisture-resistant plywood is assembled around the brick podium. It should be taken into account that the height of the plywood should be higher than the podium by the thickness of the polyurethane foam layer.
  4. We evenly fill the brick podium with one layer of polyurethane foam, after which this layer is covered with a sheet of moisture-resistant plywood of the appropriate size.
  5. The bathtub is turned over, mounted on a podium, after which, using a building level, they check how level the bathtub is placed.
  6. The bathtub is filled halfway, closing the drain; this is done to allow the foam to harden evenly. The drying period of the foam is 12-24 hours.
  7. The bathtub is connected to a drain with an overflow, mounted on a podium and attached to 3 walls using hooks and a metal corner.

Worth considering! Nowadays, acrylic bathtubs have a sloping bottom, which speeds up the flow of water into the drain, so during installation there is no need to install the bathtub on a slope.


The most famous method of fastening acrylic bathtubs is a combined method, when installation is carried out on a metal frame made of aluminum profile, and ordinary bricks are used to prevent the bottom from sagging or deforming. In order to build such a structure you will need:

  • bricks that will support the bottom of the font;
  • for the manufacture of a supporting structure you will need a metal or aluminum profile;
  • in order to secure the brickwork you will need cement mortar;
  • It is recommended to use sealant to seal the seams;
  • Self-tapping screws will help to assemble the frame;
  • To stir the cement mortar, use a special container and a trowel.

Worth remembering! When working with sharp and heavy objects, you should be careful, as an accidentally dropped tool can easily make a hole in the bathroom, thereby damaging the product. It is better to take precautions in advance by covering the font with thick paper or thick film.

In order to correctly install an acrylic bathtub on the wall, you need to note what its future height will be, based on which we will form the height of the brickwork. We take a measurement from the floor to the indicated line, from the results obtained we subtract the height of the bathtub itself, and what we get will be the thickness of the brick lining on which the bathtub will be mounted.

It is recommended to begin installing an acrylic bathtub to the wall by mounting a metal profile, which will subsequently serve as a support for the bathtub. Then, along the lower level of part of the edge of the bathtub, you need to install a metal profile using dowels along the entire perimeter where the bathtub will come into contact with the wall. It is on this that the sides of the bathtub will rest. Next, before installing the acrylic bathtub, we make a brick cushion along the bottom of the bathtub of the required height.

Need to know! Before fixing acrylic bathtubs in this way, everything must be calculated so that during installation the bathtub will exactly lie on its sides on the previously installed profile, and the bottom will lightly touch the brickwork along it. Attaching to the wall in this situation is done using a sealant, which is applied to the profile and at the same time acts as a seal preventing water leakage.


Thus, the manufacture of the frame can be considered complete, but it is possible to create a front protective screen from the same metal profile. This screen will make it possible to hide the internal part and will be able to provide additional protection for the outer side, and will also make it possible to make a special hatch for repair and maintenance of the siphon. You learned how to properly install an acrylic bathtub on a frame made by yourself.

Nowadays, many people choose corner baths. This is especially applicable to those who are not limited in bathroom space. The benefits of such a bath can hardly be underestimated, because it will allow you to fully enjoy water procedures. Guided by the needs of readers, we decided to talk about how to properly install such a bathtub.

Preparatory work

Ideally, the bathtub is installed in the room before tiling the walls. Before carrying out the main work, you need to dismantle the old container and turn off the water. It is important to follow the basic sequence:

  1. First, the bathtub is disconnected from the sewer,
  2. Then the drain is turned off.
  3. The bathtub is taken out of the room, and the drain hole is wiped and covered with a rag.
  4. Then the base is made. The best material for this would be brick. The coating laid with cement is left for 12 hours for the solution to dry completely.

The necessary measurements are taken with special care.

Note! The bathtub should be firmly pressed against the wall, but access to the pipes should remain free, so before carrying out installation work it is important to align the angle of the walls in the place where the new bathtub will be installed. It must certainly be direct. Its evenness can be determined using a construction angle.

It is also necessary to level the floor. As soon as the room is prepared, construction debris should be removed.

By watching the following video, you can clearly trace the main stages of the work and eliminate mistakes in the future:

Installation process

Installing a corner bathtub with your own hands begins with bringing the bathtub into the room and screwing the legs included in the kit to it.

There are different opinions about the need to create an angle of inclination of the bathtub. In most cases, it is advised not to create a slope for drainage. Indeed, the slope is already provided for in the design of the bathtub itself. But if you still want to create a slope, you can do it, there will be no catastrophic consequences, this will be an additional guarantee that the bath will always remain dry. Give a certain angle by adjusting the clamps on the legs. The bath is then connected to the sewer system.

It is easy to install a corner acrylic bathtub; it is only important to know about some nuances and installation techniques. Unlike other types of bathtubs, acrylic will differ in its original shape, unique mounting to the wall and lighter weight of the structure. As soon as it is connected to the drain, you need to carry out the first check. To do this, the finished container is completely filled with water. It is very important here to monitor the possibility of leaks. To ensure that the junction of the wall and the bathtub does not cause trouble, and water flows freely into the container, it is recommended to glue a flexible plinth at the junction.

To install a corner acrylic bathtub securely, it is fixed to the wall at four points: three fixation points are made on the long side and one on the short side. For reliability, the bathtub is placed in place, moved close to the wall and strictly adjusted to the level. If necessary, steel gaskets are placed under the legs of the container.

When giving preference to a corner bath, it is important:

  • correctly calculate the dimensions of the container;
  • Apply waterproof sealant to coat joints and seams. If necessary, it should be replaced with polyurethane foam. As a result, not a single crack should remain;
  • To install the drain, stock up on a corrugated hose. It easily takes the desired direction and provides bending in any direction.

Often such a bathtub is secured with hooks. In this case, one side of the device is placed on legs, and the second is hung on fastenings driven into the wall. This design is strong and stable. Sometimes, for safety, corner baths are equipped with special handrails that help you freely enter and exit the bathroom. A rug with a rubber base thrown on the floor will complement this ensemble.

Due to the special responsibility of the chosen work, clear principles should be followed when carrying out it.

  • The presence of additional functions that require electricity provides grounds for installing a grounded outlet.
  • The structure should be equipped with a corrugated hose.
  • Mineral wool can be used as a material for sound and heat insulation of the bathtub body.

Photo

An acrylic bathtub is the main element of the bathroom. To install an acrylic bathtub with your own hands, you need to strictly follow the process technology. Otherwise, you will have to pay to repair your neighbors' bathroom.

First way

We mount the acrylic bowl on the legs - they are purchased separately if not included in the kit. You can also install the structure on a frame made of galvanized profile or iron angle treated with an anti-corrosion compound. Manufacturers provide this installation option - the thin bottom is reinforced with OSB sheet.


The space under the bathtub can be covered with a standard screen, plasterboard, plastic or brick structure.

Note! In all cases, it is necessary to provide access to the siphon.

Second way

The bowl is installed on a brick frame. The masonry mortar should not contain lime. Only cement and sand - 1/3. It is possible to use ready-made masonry adhesive composition.

  • The foundation for the bathtub is built from brick. Moreover, there should be about 1 cm from the masonry to the bottom of the container. The possibility of free access to the siphon structure should be taken into account.
  • A corner or hooks made of metal coated with a zinc polymer layer are also attached to the wall surface.
  • After the solution has completely hardened, the distance between the bottom of the bowl and the masonry is filled with polyurethane foam. To ensure pressure on the foam, the bath is filled with water.
Note! Additional treatment of the bottom of the acrylic bowl and the brick base with sealant will increase the reliability of the structure.

Third way

In practice, this is a combination of the two previous options.

  • The acrylic bathtub is installed on legs.
  • A brick foundation is built under the bowl.
The area where the acrylic structure adjoins the foundation is also filled with polyurethane foam.

Regardless of the installation option chosen, self-installation of an acrylic bathtub requires the services of an assistant. The bulky structure must be moved carefully, which is difficult for one person to do in a small room.

  • Before starting work, you should make sure that the communication lines located under the bowl are reliable. Take measures to reconstruct or replace them.
  • To ensure reliable operation, you must first check the tightness of all connections, and only then install stationary structures - screen, brickwork.
  • First, all necessary measures are taken to connect the structure to the drainage system, and then a screen is installed or a brick foundation is built.

  • For the manufacture of the screen, only moisture-resistant materials are used - bricks made by firing, plastic, tempered glass, moisture-resistant plasterboard. No silicone, lightweight or composite blocks!
  • The use of options with mounting masonry will ensure reliable fastening, but will require large time and financial costs not only during installation, but also if dismantling is necessary.
  • The inspection hatch can be made in the form of an opening door, or simply fixed with sealant. Construction markets offer both options.

At the same time, it is possible to provide for the installation of glass or plastic curtains, handrails, and steps. These details will make bathing easier for older people.

Perimeter sealing

These measures will allow you not to be afraid of water getting under the structure.


The result is an even, completely sealed seam.

All stages of the event are carried out with the utmost care. If you have any doubts about your abilities, you should seek help from professionals.

Photo

They are becoming more and more popular. This is mainly due to the fact that they have significantly less weight compared to cast iron. It is also important that installing an acrylic bathtub with your own hands is a very feasible task even for inexperienced home craftsmen. The undoubted advantage of this piece of plumbing is its appearance and performance properties. Acrylic bathtubs do not darken and retain their original color for a long time during use. The service life with proper installation will be at least 15 years. Next, we’ll take a closer look at how to install an acrylic bathtub with your own hands.

Equipment

When buying a bathtub, you need to ask what elements are included in the kit. It should be said here that some manufacturers offer products without a frame. In this case, it must be purchased separately. As a rule, everything you need is sold in one place. Legs (frame) for a bathtub are very important. If these parts are missing, the structure will be unstable and will “lead” during operation. Another point that should be taken into account is that an acrylic bathtub can be installed close to the wall or in the center of the room. If the kit includes a frame, then the structure can be assembled anywhere. If instead there are legs, then it is recommended to mount the bathtub in the corner. And in this case, it is necessary to additionally fix the structure - secure it to the walls.

Installing an acrylic bathtub with your own hands: work front

During installation, you must follow some recommendations. The main task is to make the structure stable. Installing an acrylic bathtub (instructions will be given below) includes several steps:


Preparatory stage

Let's look at how to install a corner acrylic bathtub. It must be remembered that the assembly process also includes the installation of the drain and supports. These points are very important. Incorrect assembly and connection of elements to the structure will subsequently cause many problems for the inhabitants of the house. Experts recommend starting assembly with a supporting structure. Let's take a closer look at how to install legs on an acrylic bathtub.

Support assembly: general information

This stage is not difficult. The legs of an acrylic bathtub consist of various elements. Usually these are profile pipes (2 pieces) with a large number of holes, nuts, studs, self-tapping screws, plastic “heels”, washers. All these details need to be combined into one design.

Progress

The first step is to secure the profile pipe. It is fixed directly to the bottom of the structure. Self-tapping screws are used as connecting elements. There must be at least six of them. In this case, only those screws that are included in the kit are used. The size of the elements is carefully selected, which ensures their optimal fit without damaging the structure. Profile pipes are located on one and the other side of the bottom. It is recommended to tighten the screws with a screwdriver. When using a screwdriver, there is a high risk of stripping the thread. Self-tapping screws are screwed into the thickened section of the bottom. Next, you need to insert pins into the wide holes located on the profile pipes. These elements are fixed with nuts and washers on both sides. Next, screw on the adjustable heel. Screw a nut onto the ends of the studs, then put on a washer. After this, the “heel” is fixed.

Siphon

As mentioned above, installing an acrylic bathtub includes installing a drain. To assemble and connect this element, the structure must be turned upside down. As a rule, instructions are included with the kit. The siphon assembly must be carried out strictly in accordance with the recommendations. The drain should be installed very carefully to avoid leaks later. Gaskets and their installation areas must be carefully checked and burrs (if any) removed.

Insulation

Before installing an acrylic bathtub in the chosen location, it is necessary to ensure that the structure retains heat for a long time. As you know, the bowl cools down quite quickly, which, in turn, is not very convenient. This drawback is eliminated as follows:


During insulation, the material may begin to flow from the sides of the structure. To avoid this, it is recommended to apply foam in a thin stream. At the same time, moisture helps prevent the material from falling off to a greater extent. Therefore, it is advisable to wet the bottom and sides generously. When blowing out the bottom, you should thoroughly foam the legs. In this case, after drying, the material will provide additional rigidity to the support. After all treated areas have completely dried, an acrylic bath is installed.

Regulation

After installing the acrylic bathtub in the designated place, the structure should be leveled. To do this you need to use a level. Regulation is carried out in two planes. First, the position is set along the length, and then along the width. Adjustment is made by unscrewing or screwing in the legs. This way the required position of the structure is achieved. Here it should be said that there is no need to make a slope towards the drain, since it is already provided.

"Snap" to walls

After the bathtub is installed level, it should be fixed. To do this, you need to use special brackets or metal hooks. Marks are made on the walls showing the position of the bath. Next, the structure should be moved aside, holes drilled and the holders secured. After this, the bathtub needs to be pushed back. The brackets should be pressed up so that the holders go beyond the edges and clamped. Such fixation is necessary to reduce the load of the mass of a person and water, as well as to prevent sagging of the structure.

Bottom reinforcement

The easiest way is to lay bricks under the structure. The remaining gap should be filled with foam. Before filling the space, you need to fill the bathtub with water. This is done so that when the foam expands it does not put pressure on the structure and does not lift it up. After the material hardens, the water is drained. At the same time, the quality of the drain is checked.

Support structure

In the kit you can find parts of the bathroom frame. However, as practice shows, for strong fixation it is better to build the supporting structure yourself. For this, either a wooden beam or a metal profile for drywall is used. Installing an acrylic bathtub frame is relatively quick and does not require any special skills. The design is quite simple:

  • Beams are laid around the perimeter, which will become the base.
  • Vertical posts are attached to them.
  • A beam is also fixed horizontally at the top.
  • The top is covered with a sheet of chipboard or thick plywood (waterproof). A hole is cut in it for the bathtub.

To install the structure correctly, the dimensions must be observed. First of all, you need to measure the distance from the bottom edge of any side to the floor. The thickness of the lower and upper horizontal bars is subtracted from this value.

Installation of the support structure

The boards laid around the perimeter are attached to the floor. The required number of racks is installed between the beams and against the walls. The distance between the vertical elements is 0.5 m. A sheet of chipboard or plywood is screwed to the frame around the perimeter. Next, a hole is cut for the bowl. You can use a template. A template may also be included. Cutting is done with a jigsaw.

Installation of decorative panel

Installation of this element is carried out using special clips. They are mounted on the bottom of the bathtub and on the floor. The top clips are attached first. They are installed in plastic or wooden linings located below and along the edge of the structure. Then, opposite - on the floor - the lower clips are mounted. Then, when all the elements are installed, the panel simply snaps onto them.

Docking to walls

This process is performed using special plastic skirting boards or border tapes and silicone. Sealant is applied to the gaps between the bathtub and the wall. After it hardens, a plinth or tape is installed. The first one is also installed using silicone.

Important detail

Some manufacturers supply acrylic bathtubs not only with holes, but also with all components, including a mixer. Installing the elements is quite simple. Actually, if there is a hole, installing a faucet on an acrylic bathtub is carried out in the same way as on a sink, for example. The structure is placed on top, the liner is made from below, and the nut is tightened. However, some owners purchase the mixer separately. In this case, the holes may not fit and will have to be drilled. This is done with a simple drill. The drill should operate at low speeds. You can make holes using a tile drill. Installing a faucet on a bathtub is considered a more aesthetic, and in many cases, a very justified solution, rather than installing it on a wall.

Installing an acrylic liner in a bathtub

When renovating a bathroom, it is not at all necessary to completely change the plumbing. It is quite possible to carry out restoration of individual items. One of the most effective options is to install an acrylic liner in the bathtub. This option allows you to restore the internal surface of the structure in a fairly short time, returning it to its original appearance. The undoubted advantage of this option is significant time savings.

First stage of preparation

Before installing the acrylic insert in the bathtub, some work must be done. Preparing a bathroom usually does not take much time - an hour at most. But it should be remembered that the final result depends on the quality of work. The whole process can be divided into several stages:

  • Removing tiles or plastic panels adjacent to the structure from the walls. This will free up the entire perimeter of the structure.
  • Cleaning old enamel. This work is done using coarse sandpaper. For convenience, the material is fixed on a wooden or plastic holder. Cleaning is necessary to subsequently ensure optimal adhesion to the surface.
  • Washing the bathtub. There should be no dirt or enamel fragments left on the walls and bottom.
  • Removing the siphon.

Second stage of preparation

First you need to adjust the liner. It is placed inside the bowl. Using a marker, mark the protrusions of the liner beyond the edges of the bathtub. Then the sheet is removed. Excess parts around the perimeter are cut off. To do this, it is better to use a jigsaw. Overflow and drain holes are marked from the inside. They are cut using a drill with a special attachment. The liner is fixed using sealant and special foam.

Progress

The sealant is applied around the perimeter of the overflow and drain holes. This is necessary to prevent leakage. Next, the edges around the perimeter of the bath itself are coated with sealant. In these places, the sheet should be in most close contact with the main structure. After this, the bottom of the bath is blown with foam. The thickness of the layer depends on the configuration of the sheet and how well it matches the shape of the bowl. Next, the liner itself is installed and pressed tightly. It can be fixed around the perimeter with clamps, after placing slats or small boards. This will prevent damage to the acrylic. Immediately after installation, the siphon is assembled. This will ensure reliable sealing of the overflow. Next, the drain is closed with a stopper and water is drawn into the bath. Its level should not reach 2-3 cm from the overflow hole. In this case, the water will act as a load. As a result, reliable fixation of the insert and polymerization of the foam will be ensured. In this state, the structure should stand for at least a day.

Modern technologies

Today, the market offers plumbing products from various companies. One of the popular ones is BAS. This manufacturer uses the most modern materials and technologies in the manufacture of plumbing fixtures. In particular, high-density, environmentally friendly two-component polyurethane foam is used in production. Surface reinforcement technology is also used in production. It is carried out using polyester resin containing special glass fiber. Many consumers purchase BAS acrylic bathtubs. Installation of structures is quite simple and can be done independently. The assembly and installation scheme is similar to that described above.

Inconvenient and heavy cast iron or steel bathtubs are giving way to modern acrylic products. They attract with their advantages: whiteness and ease of care. A wide variety of shapes (rectangular, corner, round) will allow you to choose the right option for any room. But choosing and purchasing a bath is only 50% of the job. Further operation and service life largely depend on installation. This issue should be approached responsibly, because the slightest mistake will lead to damage.

Acrylic bathtubs - strengths and weaknesses

Such products are distinguished by their attractive appearance, various shapes, and colors. However, they also have disadvantages that should be taken into account.

Let's start with the advantages:

  1. 1. Plasticity. It is this indicator that allows you to make baths of any shape.
  2. 2. Light weight. The average weight is about 20 kg. For this reason, even one person can handle the installation.
  3. 3. High thermal engineering. Acrylic is a fairly “warm” material, so products made from it retain the water temperature longer.
  4. 4. The ability to carry out repairs yourself using liquid acrylic or a special insert.

But there are also disadvantages. Knowing the disadvantages will extend the life of the bathtub. These include:

  1. 1. Sensitivity to high temperatures. Acrylic is a material that deforms at temperatures above +60 degrees.
  2. 2. Fragility. If you accidentally drop something heavy, you can break through the bottom of the product. Therefore, they must be installed and subsequently used carefully.
  3. 3. Vulnerability. You cannot use hard brushes or aggressive household chemicals to wash the container.

Don't skimp on an acrylic bathtub. Choose well-known brands, even if they are more expensive - but in this case there is a guarantee of reliability and long service life.

The nuances of choosing a height and installation procedure

Before installation, you should familiarize yourself with the accepted standard. Following the recommendations will allow you to use the room for water treatments with maximum comfort. This also affects operational safety. When installing, you should take into account personal preferences and requirements. For example, in medical institutions, bathtubs are placed at a level of 50 cm from the floor. The main thing when choosing a height is ease of use. According to current regulations, the optimal figure is 60 cm.

Since most apartments have small rooms, most often the bathtub is mounted near the walls; if there is enough space, it can be placed in the center of the room. Before you begin installation, you need to choose the appropriate option. Acrylic bathtubs are installed:

  • on the legs - they must be included in the kit;
  • on a frame with legs;
  • on a brick base.

Some experts who want to give the structure maximum strength use a combined installation method: on legs and a brick frame.

Regardless of the chosen method, when carrying out work it is necessary to provide access to pipes and communications. This is easy when using legs or a frame, and when constructing a brick base, a gap is left, which allows for maintenance.

Self-installation - step-by-step instructions

To choose the most suitable installation method, you need to familiarize yourself with all existing options.

On your feet

The works look like this:

  • installing legs in the required places;
  • bath installation;
  • height adjustment of legs;
  • securing the product;
  • finishing.

To install, you need to turn the bathtub over and find areas for fastening. All that remains is to screw the legs. If installation is carried out on a special platform, the products are mounted on guides that are attached to the bottom of the structure. To adjust the font, you cannot do without a building level: first set the height of one leg, and from this determine the values ​​for the remaining three.

Under no circumstances should you drill holes yourself. This will lead to serious deformations of the entire bathtub. In addition, the product may turn over, because the manufacturer, when creating it, chose places to install the legs taking into account the correct distribution of the load when the structure was filled with water.

After installing the legs, turn the bath over and place it on the selected area. At this stage, it is advisable to cover the bottom of the product with some material to prevent accidental damage. All that remains is to adjust the height. First, the side in contact with the wall is aligned, then the position of the rest is adjusted. The instructions are as follows:

  • raise one of the corners to the required height by rotating the screw;
  • place a building level on the adjacent corner and level its height;
  • align the remaining sides in the same way;
  • correct errors if any.

If you need to carry out installation with a slight slope towards the drain, you can simply change the height of the legs by only 1.5-2 cm.


On a factory frame

Do-it-yourself acrylic bathtub installation is carried out according to the following scheme:

  • unpacking structural elements;
  • making markings for two baths, where you need to mark the mounting points;
  • drilling holes for fasteners;
  • installation of brackets;
  • installation of frame legs and other elements;
  • connecting the drain hole, siphon;
  • sealing the connection;
  • installation of the bathtub and its leveling;
  • installation of hooks, which are required to prevent the unit from overturning;
  • hanging the product on hooks;
  • sewer connection.

All that remains is to check the tightness of all connections. It's simple: fill the container with water, inspect all the elements. If there are problem areas, they are treated a second time with a sealant. If you need to fasten the guides, be sure to use the fasteners supplied by the manufacturer. Drill holes only in designated areas. Moreover, in order to avoid damage to the bathtub due to inept actions, it is advisable to wrap electrical tape around the drill. This will indicate the depth to which the tool can plunge.

It is not advisable to replace the fasteners supplied in the kit with any others. After all, the manufacturer accurately calculates the dimensions of all products, which will avoid damage. After installation is completed, it is advisable to close the bathtub and all communications using a decorative screen.


On a brick frame

Although manufacturers advise installation on the provided engineering supports, sometimes it becomes necessary to install it on a brick base. This is usually associated with the implementation of an unusual design solution, the area and shape of the room.

When choosing a brick base, you should give preference to two separate supports - it is easier to install and use. If the frame is made correctly, the base will have maximum strength - the structure will serve faithfully for many decades. To make the base you need the following tools and materials:

  • brick;
  • metal profiles or corners;
  • cement mortar;
  • sealant;
  • self-tapping screws

The instructions are as follows:

  1. 1. The location of the lower edge of the side is marked on the wall. Several holes for fasteners are drilled along the line.
  2. 2. The profile is installed and fixed.
  3. 3. Mark the base on the floor.
  4. 4. Brickwork is being done. When the structure is dry, proceed to installation.
  5. 5. Communications are connected and joints are processed using sealant.
  6. 6. The bath is filled with water to check the tightness of the connections.

Metal profiles mounted at the bottom of the font will help strengthen the structure. If it was decided to make a rectangular brick base, it is worth providing space to ensure free access to all communications. If you need to make a slight slope, you need to lay a metal plate up to 1 cm wide in the masonry or simply take more mortar.

If you purchased a bathtub without a special decorative screen, you can make this product yourself. When choosing a material, you need to consider a number of requirements:

  • it is possible to use only moisture-resistant material that is not afraid of temperature fluctuations;
  • it is necessary to ensure quick access to communications.

If the bathtub is installed on a brick base, then on the front side you can assemble a brick wall and decorate it with ceramic tiles. Moreover, the top row should be 2-3 cm below the edge of the side; to seal, the rest of the part needs to be “blown out” with polyurethane foam. To access communications, it is necessary to leave a technological hole and make a door.

Often plastic, gypsum board, and MDF are used for finishing. Plastic products will allow you to lining an acrylic bathtub as quickly as possible. And if the panel becomes unusable, it can be quickly replaced. The top of the plasterboard is finished with tiles, film, and decorative plaster. GKLV is installed on a frame made of wood and metal. Before assembly, the racks are treated with either a moisture-resistant primer or an anti-corrosion compound.