DIY compost pit. Manufacturing options step by step with photos. Compost pit: do it yourself Compost pit on the site

compost pit- This is a place for recycling organic waste. As a result of the activity of microorganisms, garden waste decomposes in it, which becomes the basis for highly effective organic fertilizer. In this article we will look at options for making a compost pit with your own hands.

In one form or another, compost pits, in the form of simple heaps of garbage, are present on every personal plot. But the right designs in the form of modern composters or specially equipped boxes can increase the amount of valuable fertilizer and the speed of its creation.

The simplest compost pit can be made with your own hands from auxiliary building materials available at the dacha.

Principles of constructing a compost pit

The main function of a compost pit is to create the most comfortable environment for the life of bacteria, microorganisms, and earthworms, the quantity of which determines the speed of the process and the quality of the resulting compost. To do this, a fairly high temperature and humidity must be maintained inside the compost heap with a regular supply of oxygen.

To do this, the compost container must have the following design features:

Compost bins are made from any available materials. These can be boards, slate scraps, corrugated sheets, metal construction mesh and even car tires. More permanent structures are built from brick or concrete. There are also lightweight, portable waste disposal units in metal or plastic barrels.

The main sanitary requirement when constructing a compost pit is its distance of 20 meters from reservoirs and sources of drinking water. Rain streams should not flow from the compost heap in the direction of wells, boreholes, and swimming pools.

Choosing a site for a compost pit

The location of the composter on the site should not become a source of groundwater contamination or a threat to the health of people and animals. Do not place the compost bin in wetlands or areas with standing water.

The external design of the compost pit can be absolutely anything. It can be decorated with beautifully painted boards, fenced with plantings of loach and perennial, ornamental plants.

Making a compost pit with your own hands

In your garden or personal plot, you can use the simplest tools to make a high-quality structure and turn a pile of garden waste and decomposed household waste into valuable fertilizer. There are many different types of compost piles, from earthen ditches to actual concrete structures.

Compost pit in the ground

To create a compost bin:

1. A site is selected in the ground away from residential buildings.
2. In an area 1.5 m wide and of arbitrary length, the top layer of turf and soil is removed.
3. The bottom of the pit should be located at a depth of no more than 0.5 meters.
4. The bottom is covered with a sand cushion to drain excess water.

The first layer serves as drainage and promotes aeration of the pile and consists of trimmed branches.

The following are laid on them in layers:

• cut grass;
• dry leaves;
• sawdust;
• household food waste;
• manure;
• weeds.

The layers are sprinkled with peat or garden soil and spilled with water. To speed up the decomposition process, it is advisable to chop all the ingredients before adding them, simply chopping them with a shovel.

The total height of the pile should not exceed 1.5 meters. This means that it will rise 1 meter above the ground. The structure is protected from above with covering material or a slate shield. In hot weather, the pile is watered with ordinary water.

Under natural conditions, microorganisms will be able to process such a waste dump in two summer seasons. This is the simplest and most economical way to produce compost.

Use EM drugs. A temperature of +4°C inside the compost heap is sufficient for microorganisms to successfully process waste.

Making a compost pit from boards

For ease of use and speeding up the recycling process, the compost container is made of boards. The optimal size of a compost bin is 1x1.5 meters.

Instructions for making a pit from boards:

They put garbage into such a container from the top according to the general principle, starting with the branches. And you can rake out the finished compost from below.

Photo: drawing of a compost box, composter diagram

Options for compost pits made from boards

Slate is durable and perfect for the walls of a compost bin. You can use both wave and flat sheet slate.

Options for making a slate composter:

1. Markings are made at the location of the compost heap and deepen the sheets cut to size. They can be secured with external, wooden or iron sheathing.
2. In another option, metal pipes are buried in the ground. A frame of bars is attached to them. The outside is sheathed with slate. The second design is more durable.

All wooden elements should be treated with an antiseptic to avoid rotting. A cover for the pit is made from plywood or boards. The front wall of the pit is made lower, at a level of 40-50 cm above ground level. Rigid walls allow you to cover the pit with film or garden covering material.

Compost pit made of corrugated sheets

When making a compost bin from corrugated sheets, choose a material with an anti-corrosion coating.

Work order:

1. At the selected location, a base is constructed from a metal or wooden block.
2. The dimensions of the pit are selected according to the length of the sheets, which allows you to make a compost bin with two or three compartments.
3. The base is made, as for a wooden structure.
4. On the outside, the profile strips are fastened with self-tapping screws with gaps of 3-5 cm.
5. It must be taken into account that the metal surface gets very hot during hot summer periods.
6. A cover of plywood or boards is made on top. It is advisable to cover the frame with a protective compound.

Metal mesh compost bin

To make compost, you can make a cylindrical container from a metal mesh. In such a cylinder, the compost is well ventilated and does not rot.

How to make a compost bin:

To simplify, you can put a large film bag (polyethylene) inside the basket, which is used for garbage. These baskets are easy to assemble and install anywhere. They are filled with waste according to the principle of a compost pit. Compost can also be made in special bags, which are sold in garden centers.

Concreted compost pit

A concrete compost pit creates many advantages:

• Thick walls maintain a positive temperature for a long time.
• Such a pit is durable and reliable, not subject to the influence of adverse natural conditions.

It is advisable to make it large, with two or even three compartments. In the first and second blocks, compost from different seasons will ripen. In the third, bags of finished compost are stored.

How to make a concrete compost pit:

When using a concrete pit, you need to take into account that the process of making compost is slow. To speed up the process, you need to manually add earthworms or commercially available special products.

Other material options for compost pits

Compost pit made from car tires

Car tires are quite suitable for arranging a compost heap:

Compost in an iron barrel

Old iron barrels are great for composting:

1. We cut out both bottoms with a chisel and place them near the path.
2. We put weeds, grass clippings, and kitchen waste into the barrel in layers.
3. To increase the temperature, you can paint the barrel black and pour a solution of ammonium nitrate onto the compost (a matchbox in a bucket of water).
4. We take out the finished compost from below. To do this, you need to lift the barrel with a crowbar.

To improve the design:

1. Using a grinder (angle grinder), you need to cut the barrel into two unequal parts and punch holes in the walls for air circulation.
2. Then we put them on the butt and connect them with wire or rope. Cover the top with a lid.
3. The advantages of this design are that the contents of the barrel are easily accessible to worms and bacteria from below.
4. To get the finished compost you just need to untie the rope and you will get two hundred liters of ready-made fertilizer.

Compost in a plastic barrel

The ideal compost bin material is plastic. In conventional compost heaps, the compost takes two years to prepare. In plastic barrels with a capacity of 150-200 liters, you can prepare liquid compost in two weeks.

For this:

1. Fill the barrel halfway with mowed grass or weeds, and fill it with water to the top.
2. After about three days, the fermentation process will begin.
3. After using the solution, you can add water to the barrel again and let it brew for one week.
4. Having used up the liquid compost completely, the remaining grass is placed in a compost heap.

Brick compost pit

The compost pit is made of brick and has three walls. It can be done with or without cement mortar. A compost pit using cement mortar is made no more than 1 meter high. Gaps must be left between the bricks for ventilation.

A compost pit made of bricks without a cement binder is convenient in that it can be moved to another location if necessary.

In the compost pit, you need to provide a place for throwing the compost mass. Make a lid from available material. The front wall is made temporary to make it convenient to remove the finished compost.

Compost pit made of concrete rings

In the inner cavity of the concrete ring, you can successfully store garden waste and, as a result, obtain compost. For comfort the ring is partially buried in the ground, and after filling, cover with a lid or film material.

One of the disadvantages of the design is the lack of a low front wall. To unload the finished compost you need to climb inside. Otherwise, such reinforced concrete products make very durable compost chambers.

Compost pit using Finnish technology

If you don’t want to make a compost pit, you can purchase a composter using Finnish technology. It is modern with two containers with a capacity of 80 liters. Its contents are mixed with a layer of peat and sawdust. You can also recycle food.

When the container is full, it is pulled out and another one is inserted. Due to its high concentration, the finished compost is mixed with soil or sand and fertilized with plants. The vacated container is washed and returned to its place.

Compost pits and cesspools should not be confused. Organic matter from the garden plot is stored in containers for preparing compost. Remains of protein food should be disposed of in a cesspool.

What can and cannot be put in a compost bin?

Thanks to composting, the amount of waste in landfills is reduced, and our gardens and gardens receive additional fertilizers.

First of all, organic garden waste is placed in the compost pit, in the form of:

• branches;
• dry leaves;
• mown grass;
• weeds;
• straw.

Good ingredients for a compost heap are:

• food leftovers from vegetarian food;
• egg shells;
• onion peel.

You can layer the compost with manure and chicken droppings.

Prohibited compost heap ingredients include:

• construction and household waste with a high content of phenols;
• remnants of printed products;
• plastic.

Do not put leftover protein and oily foods into compost, as they decompose slowly and attract mice and rats.

From plant residues, weeds with ripened seeds and roots that can take root well, such as:

• sow thistle;
• wheatgrass;
• loach.

Drought-tolerant plants need to be dried out before being placed in the compost heap so that they lose their ability to take root. Sawdust can be used in moderation as it decomposes slowly and takes up nitrogen. They also do not use feces of domestic animals or humans for composting.

Preparations for compost pit

The main task of drugs containing biological activators is to accelerate decomposition processes with the help of microorganisms.

The preparations do an excellent job of processing organic matter and do not allow pathogenic microflora to develop in the compost pit:

1. Compost preparation can be significantly accelerated by using Baikal EM. This preparation contains effective microorganisms (EM).
2. The drug "Doctor Robik" significantly increases the number of effective microorganisms (EM) in the compost. They process organic matter into humus, and also prevent pathogenic microflora from developing and destroy the larvae of harmful insects.
3. The bioactivator has similar properties. The Green-Master bioactivator package should be diluted in 20 liters of warm water, let it brew for 4 hours and water the compost heap. After 2 weeks you need to turn the pile over with a pitchfork. To prepare compost, one treatment with a bioactivator solution is sufficient.
4. Compost Boost gives good results. for composting.
5. Manufacturer Happy Summer Resident produces “Biocompostin”– a means for preparing compost. Sanex Plus produces EcoCompost.
6. The manufacturer Dezon Bio K produces several types of drugs:“Green universal”, “Compost for one season”, “Compost for the next agricultural season”, “Bioactivator for compost”.

By using preparations you can significantly speed up microbiological processes and obtain compost in 2-3 months.

Bioactivator preparations for compost

Rules for operating a compost pit

After building a compost bin and filling it, all that remains is to occasionally look inside and, depending on the changes that occur, adjust the decomposition process.

Tips for using the composter:

1. During dry periods, it is necessary to water the compost with plain water. preventing it from overheating, which leads to a reduction in the population of certain types of beneficial bacteria.
2. You should loosen your compost heap at least once every two weeks., thereby ensuring an influx of oxygen into all, even the lowest, layers.
3. Add “Effective Microorganisms” to the compost content in the form of solutions and various additives.
4. To speed up the process, you can add ready-made compost substrate, which contains a full range of microbiological activators.
5. If the pit design does not have a top cover, then simply cover the top part with black garden covering material, which will increase the temperature and greenhouse effect inside the structure.

Summarizing

Creating a compost pit does not require serious material investments. You can make it with your own hands from scrap materials, which are always sufficient in any garden plot.

Having spent a little time making a compost pit, you will not have to deal with the problems of disposing of garden and household waste in the future.

Every gardener knows how important it is to fertilize the soil in the garden and in the garden in a timely and efficient manner in order to get a good harvest as a result. You can purchase ready-made compost, spending quite large sums on it, almost equal to the cost of the harvest itself, or you can make it yourself without much effort.

A do-it-yourself compost pit, the options of which will be discussed in this publication, will help not only to produce high-quality fertilizers, saving on their purchase, but also to functionally use waste from products of plant origin. There are several approaches to its creation, but first, a few words about the purpose and importance of this agricultural structure.

Purpose and general principles of creating a compost pit

Why are compost pits made?

At least some cultivated plants are necessarily planted on every plot of land, and without feeding they will eventually lose their vitality, wither and die, as the soil around them is depleted.

Therefore, whether it is a tree, shrub or annual vegetable crops, the soil for them must be periodically fertilized. Today, specialized stores offer a large number of fertilizers made on different bases, but not all of them are equally beneficial for plants and unsafe for humans. Some manufacturers produce compost, however, and they are not always conscientious. To speed up the maturation of humus, some of these “agrochemists” use not biological, but chemical means that quickly decompose various organic substances, and it is simply impossible to check how the processing took place for an ignorant person who does not have special knowledge. Therefore, if you come across such a product, you may not only not achieve an increase in the yield of your garden or garden, but, on the contrary, spoil the soil to such an extent that it will take many years to restore it.

That is why the best option seems to be making organic fertilizers yourself, especially since almost all the necessary components can always be found literally under your feet or in the kitchen after cooking.

Any area is periodically tidied up, and during the cleaning process heaps of grass and fallen leaves are collected, mixed with fallen fruits, as well as branches after trimming trees and bushes - all this is perfect for making compost.

If the loaded compost pit is not touched, the compost will mature for quite a long time. And provided that special biological solutions containing live bacteria are added to it, fertilizer can be obtained in 3-4 months. However, in order for the “ripening” process inside compost pits and containers to proceed evenly, the mass must be periodically mixed and drugs added to it that accelerate the processes of natural decomposition of organic matter.

Requirements for setting up a compost pit

In order for a compost pit to function properly, its design must provide all the necessary conditions for the development and active activity of bacteria that will process plant waste.

The conditions necessary for the normal functioning of bacteria include the following factors:

• Availability of free access of oxygen to the container (pit), so that the plant waste placed in it does not rot, emitting unpleasant odors, but is broken down under the influence of earthworms and beneficial bacteria.
• Special temperature regime
• Constant high humidity.

High-quality fertilizer can only be obtained if all these conditions are met, and for this you need to properly build or assemble a compost container from ready-made materials.

The requirements that must be met when constructing this useful structure can be listed as follows:

• The container must have holes in its walls for free access of air, which means that the best option would be to install it above the soil level.
• To make it easier to remove finished compost from the container, it is best to make the front or side wall in the form of a door, or assemble it from removable boards.
• If the compost pit is installed in a pit dug in the ground, then it should not be buried more than 500 mm. The mass placed in such a pit must be mixed quite often, adding a solution with live bacteria to it.
• A mobile compost container looks like a very attractive option - if it has at least some aesthetic appearance, it can be installed anywhere on the site. The only thing that needs to be taken into account is that it should not be constantly in the sun. Therefore, it is best to find a place for the container in partial shade under trees. In addition, if desired, it can be decorated with a removable

• The size of the compost container or pit depends on how much fertilizer is expected to be produced for the needs of the site. But it is best that its dimensions do not exceed 1000×2000 mm. If the area is large and you need a lot of humus, then it is recommended to make several small containers with an approximate size of 800x1000 mm.
• You should not make the container box too high - it should have a height that will allow you to easily loosen the mass, and this must be done quite often. Therefore, it is most reasonable to provide the height depending on the growth of the gardener.
• Whatever material the compost container is made of, its bottom should not be covered - it always remains earthen. Thus, the box will maintain moisture, which will come from the soil. In addition, free movement will be ensured for earthworms, which also take an active part in the production of humus.

What kind of waste can be put in a compost container?

Compost will be of high quality and beneficial for plants only if it is made from environmentally friendly plant products. Therefore, you need to know what can be placed in a container and what absolutely cannot.

• Tree branches (but they are placed only on the bottom of the composter - this will be a kind of drainage layer).
• Fallen leaves, pine needles, roots, bark and shredded tree branches.
• Mown or weeded grass.
• Peelings of vegetables, fruits and berries, as well as spoiled fruits.
• Chicken droppings, aged two-year rotted manure.
• Ash and charcoal left over from burning wood.
• Sawdust, straw, hay, shavings and other small wood waste.
• Remains of tea and coffee brewing.
• Paper bags, corrugated cardboard, used napkins and paper (of course, if there is no printing ink or office glue on the paper waste).
• Sometimes the lower branch drainage layer is sprinkled with lime to quickly split the wood.

All plant waste, for example, layers of freshly cut grass, must be sprinkled with a layer of garden soil, since without it decomposition will be slower.

It is also very important to know what should never be put into compost, otherwise it may not help, but harm the plants.

Prices for garden containers

garden container

So, you cannot put inorganic substances into the container that do not decompose or, when decomposing, release toxic substances that are dangerous not only for plants, but also for humans. In addition, there are other substances and products that are contraindicated to be placed in compost pits. These include:

• Plastic bags, products made of plastic, rubber, metal and synthetics.
• Plants treated with chemicals.
• Tops from potatoes and tomatoes - they can be infected with late blight.
• Fruit tree pits and animal bones.
• Pet feces may contain helminths and their eggs.
• Pet hair, as it will take a long time to decompose.
• It is important to ensure that no glass gets into the compost, since when processing the beds it can seriously injure your hand.
• It is not recommended to place thick branches in the upper layers - they will take too long to decompose.

What types of compost pits are there and how to make them yourself?

Compost pits or containers are made from different materials - it can be wood, metal, smooth or corrugated slate, metal mesh and plastic film or geotextiles, plastic black bags and more. The design of containers can also be different, but they must function according to the same principle. Next, the designs of various compost pits will be considered, from complex to the simplest options, so the reader will have the opportunity to choose the most suitable one for a particular case.

The first option is a ready-made plastic container

To begin with, it is worth considering a ready-made version of the composter, which can be purchased in specialized stores. These are plastic containers made taking into account all the necessary conditions for the production of humus.

Containers of various volumes and shapes have quite affordable prices, which start from 1,300 rubles, and if there is no opportunity or desire to make a compost pit yourself, then the best solution would be to purchase this agricultural structure ready-made.

Containers are fairly compact products with a neat and stylish appearance that will not spoil the landscape design of the site. Moreover, most often the plastic of such composters is painted green, which helps the container visually “get lost” against the background of the vegetation of the area.

The containers are sold unassembled, so they can easily be delivered to the installation site, even by public transport. They come with assembly instructions, and it will not be difficult to assemble such a container yourself, since this does not require any tools.

To make it easier to remove finished humus from the composter, the design includes a side door that simplifies its operation.

Composters are made of frost-resistant UV-stabilized plastic, which perfectly withstands the effects of ultraviolet radiation, precipitation, wind and temperature changes. The advantage of this design compared to the “classic” compost pit built in the ground is that it will not become a source of unpleasant odor, since the aeration system provided in the container does not allow waste to rot.

The second option is a homemade wooden compost container

This version of a compost pit will not be so easy to do with your own hands for those land owners who do not have carpentry tools or do not know how to work with them. However, knowing the dimensions of the blanks, they can be ordered from a carpentry workshop, and assembling the box yourself should not be a problem, since this process does not require special tools. If the “carpentry tool arsenal” is available, and there is at least a little experience working with it, then the manufacturing process will be simple and quick.

So, for a wooden compost container you will need 24 boards 1500 mm long, 25 mm thick and 150 mm wide.

The tools you will need are a circular saw or jigsaw, a regular or electric plane, clamps, a tape measure and a simple pencil.

Illustration
	The first step is to make parts for the container. For this purpose, it is advisable to use high-quality durable wood that will be resistant to external natural influences, such as moisture, wind, temperature changes and ultraviolet rays. This is due to the fact that the container will be located constantly on the street. And in addition, the wood will be exposed not only from the outside, but also biologically - from the inside, since the processes of decomposition of plant waste will actively occur there.
	The boards are sawn and planed on all sides so that they look fairly neat. This is especially important if the container is located on an area that is clearly visible - probably no one would want the box to spoil the landscape design.
	After the boards are prepared, they are folded together and tightly tightened with clamps on both sides. Next, 100 mm is measured from each edge, then another 25 mm is set aside and marked with a pencil - this will be the width of the groove to be cut. The groove depth should also be 25 mm.
	Then, cuts are made on the marked boards. To do this, the cutting depth is set on a hand-held circular saw, and many cuts are made in the area marked on the boards at a distance of 1–2 mm from one another. When the wood is broken into small pieces, it can be easily removed from the boards with the same saw.
	When the grooves are ready on one side, the boards are turned to the opposite side. Markings are also made on it - first 100 and then 25 mm are laid off from the edge. After which the process of cutting the grooves is repeated. The grooves on one and the other side along the width of the boards should be exactly opposite each other - as shown in this illustration.
	The next step is to take two boards with grooves, fold them and fasten them together with clamps. A line is drawn dividing the boards exactly in half - in this case it is 75 mm from the edge, and the boards are sawn along this marking. These parts will be used to install the lower and upper, that is, the last row of the structure.
	Next, all surfaces of the finished boards, including cut grooves, must be treated with one of the antiseptic solutions. This product will prevent putrefactive processes and extend the life of the wood. The antiseptic is applied with a wide brush. It is important to ensure that there are no untreated areas left, otherwise the wood may begin to decompose from them under the influence of processes occurring inside the container and external natural factors.
	After the wood has completely dried, you can proceed to assembling the structure. The container should be installed on bricks, since there must be space below for air to enter. The bricks are placed on the site where the compost bin will be permanently installed. The installation site must be relatively flat so that there is no distortion of the container walls during its assembly.
	Assembly begins with two boards that have a groove on only one side being installed on edges of securely laid bricks. They are positioned so that the groove points upward.
	Next, perpendicular to them, boards with two oppositely placed grooves are installed, that is, on each side. The bottom groove of the top board should fit into the groove of the bottom one, standing on the bricks. This is clearly shown in the illustration.
	The next step is to install boards located parallel to the lower structural elements. The entire box is assembled using the same system, all the way to the top. The work goes quite quickly - if necessary, the board installed on top is knocked down by hand or, carefully, with a hammer.
	The last to be installed are two boards that have grooves on only one side - they are, naturally, mounted with the cutouts facing down. The result is a “well” with the necessary distances between the boards, through which oxygen will flow into the compost.
	It is not enough to make and install such a box - it is also very important to fill it correctly. The bottom layer of filler is branches (in this design it will be located between the bricks installed under the container). And the thickness of such a layer should reach half the width of the bottom wide board, which has grooves on both sides. The branches need to be laid quite tightly, as they will act as drainage. Lime 70÷80 mm is poured on top of the branches, and then waste, then a layer of soil (its thickness should be about 100 mm). Next again comes waste, ash and soil. Then, waste, manure, soil and more waste. In this case, ash, manure and lime can be periodically swapped. It should be noted that this is only one of the filling options, since each gardener invents his own “recipes” and uses different components to make compost.

This design is good for everyone, except that getting ready compost out of it will not be very convenient. Most often, the option of a compost bin with an installed door or with removable boards is chosen.

In this design, I would like to consider the front side of the container, which is equipped with removable boards installed at an angle to additional corner vertical posts.

To fix them at an angle, complex grooves are cut at an angle on one side of the boards that form the side walls of the container. To make them the same, the boards are folded together in pairs, fastened with clamps, and then the marked part of the groove is selected with a jigsaw.

The result of the work done will be the container shown in the illustration below. It clearly shows the boards installed at an angle and two added vertical posts holding the side walls on the “facade” side.

One more circumstance must be taken into account. This means that wood that has not been treated with an antiseptic and unpainted can swell under the influence of moisture, and when exposed to the sun, begin to dry out, causing cracks. In this case, it will be very difficult to remove the boards from the grooves. Therefore, I make the grooves in such a way that initially the boards come out very freely, and before assembling the structure, it is recommended to process and paint its elements. In addition, it is best to install a wooden structure under a roof or under the canopy of trees.

The container can be one- or two-section, open or closed. It is better, of course, to build a two-section version, or to place two composters side by side, since they can be used in turn - using ready-made humus from one container while it matures in another. Having emptied the first composter, they move on to using compost from another, and the first one is filled with waste again.

If the site area allows the container to be located away from residential buildings, then it can be made open. If the composter is installed near the house or recreation areas, it is recommended to equip it with a lid.

The third option is making a compost bin

This method of making a container for compost production is so simple that any gardener can do it independently, since the process does not require any special effort or the ability to work with complex tools.

To make this version of the container you will need the following materials:

• Welded metal mesh with cells 40×40 or 50×50 mm - 3000 mm long, 700 to 1000 mm wide - this will be the height of the basket. The width of the material is chosen at the request of the master. You can choose a regular steel mesh, but it is better if it has a polymer anti-corrosion coating.
• Thick polyethylene film or black geotextile, 3500 mm long and 750÷1050 mm wide (depending on the planned height of the future basket).
• Stationery clips – 8÷10 pieces.
• Flexible and strong knitting wire for fastening the mesh.

The tools you will need to prepare are regular scissors and metal scissors, pliers and a tape measure.

Illustration	Brief description of the operations performed
	The metal mesh is unrolled and leveled. A strip 3000 mm long is measured and cut from it.
	Then the cut strip is rolled into a cylinder so that the edges overlap by approximately 200 mm. This connection point along the entire height of the cylinder must be carefully tied with wire or plastic clamps - puffs.
	Next, polyethylene film or geotextile is spread, the fabric of the required size is measured and cut. (The work will go faster if you have such an assistant))).
	The next step is to roll up the cut film or geotextile and install it inside the basket. Then, the material is distributed along the walls.
	The top edge of the film is folded over the edge of the mesh outward and hooked to the walls of the basket using office clips. They will securely fix the canvas and will not allow it to come off even when mixing the compost.
	That's it - the compost bin is ready. It is not heavy at all, so it can be easily moved to any area of ​​the site.
	Next, the resulting container is filled with various waste of plant origin, which is stacked in layers. The first, lowest layer is branches, which are covered with soil, then any grass, fallen leaves, waste from cleaning vegetables from the kitchen, etc. Then comes another layer of soil, and then plant waste. After filling the basket, its contents must be poured with water so that it reaches the bottom of the container. After which a special environmentally friendly product is diluted and infused, containing bacteria that promote the rapid decomposition of plant products, which will significantly accelerate the maturation of the compost. Taking compost out of the basket is quite simple - you just need to lift one edge of the container, scoop out the finished compost with a shovel, put it in a garden cart and take it to the area to be fertilized.

Here it is necessary to clarify the point that if polyethylene film is used for the inner covering of the basket, then holes must be cut in it to allow oxygen to enter the processed mass. If you decide to use geotextiles for the compost bin, you won’t have to cut it, since it is a “breathable” material, that is, it allows air to pass through well, and also retains moisture and prevents its rapid evaporation.

The fourth option is a concrete compost pit

The construction of a concrete structure is quite labor-intensive work. In addition, if the pit is located below the top level of the ground, it is not entirely convenient for removing the finished product. In addition, construction will cost much more than installing a wooden version or making a basket. However, if you want to work with concrete and build a permanent structure, then you need to know how the work on its construction and maintenance is carried out.

Prices for geotextiles

geotextiles

You can build a pit with one or two compartments. If the second option is chosen, then one compartment is intended for mature humus, and the second for constant replenishment.

Since oxygen can only enter such a pit through the top, the lid for it must be made of mesh.

The bottom of the pit is not concreted or waterproofed, since it must remain earthen so that earthworms have access to plant waste, and also to ensure that the mass is moistened by soil moisture.

In such a space that does not have aeration, the waste placed in it may begin to rot, so you will have to loosen it quite often, providing access to air.

Work on the arrangement of a concrete structure consists of the following stages:

• The first step following the marking is to dig a pit in the selected location. It can be of any size in length and width, ranging from 1000 mm or more. Here you need to take into account that the internal space of the pit will be reduced due to the construction of side walls. The depth of the pit can vary from 500 to 800 mm, but the deeper the pit, the more difficult it will be to get ready-made humus from there and the more difficult it will be to regularly loosen the mass.
• The next step is to install formwork made of boards or thick plywood along the walls, to the entire height of the pit. It is mounted at a distance of 100÷150 mm from the ground surfaces - this space will be the thickness of the walls.

Before covering the formwork frame with boards or plywood, a reinforcing mesh is installed between it and the ground walls. After this, the formwork sheathing is secured to the frame.

• Next, sand, gravel and cement are mixed in a ratio of 2:4:1. This process is best carried out in a concrete mixer or in a large container, for example, a bathtub or a spacious garden wheelbarrow, since it is advisable to pour the solution into the formwork at one time.
• The next step is to pour the solution into the formwork and “bayonet it”, that is, repeatedly pierce it with a pipe or a piece of reinforcement reaching to the bottom - this process is carried out so that air pockets do not form in the concrete. After the formwork is filled, the poured concrete is left to dry and gain strength. It is advisable to carry out stripping no earlier than after 10-12 days.
• After the mortar has hardened, the walls of the pit must be raised above the ground using brickwork, or again by building formwork on top of the finished walls that strengthen the pit, reinforce it and fill it with concrete. The height of the side framing the edges of the pit should be 150÷200 mm.
• The walls of the pit can also be reinforced with brickwork, but a strip base will need to be poured under it along the perimeter of the bottom of the pit with concrete.

If it is decided to decorate the walls with brickwork, then it should not be made solid. It is best if there are holes in it that will allow ground moisture and earthworms to penetrate into the pit.

In such a pit (without air access to its lower part), the waste processing process until the humus is completely ripe will last about two years. And to speed it up, you will need to pour a special solution into the plant mass containing live bacteria designed for such conditions.

Fifth option - slate composter

Building a slate compost pit is a fairly simple and affordable method, especially when the farm still has old, seemingly unnecessary roofing material.

It doesn’t matter if the sheets have slight damage, since the flow of air into the plant mass will only be a good thing, especially since slate containers are most often made open. The slate will only serve as walls, preventing the contents from scattering beyond the boundaries of the area organized for the composter. To create such a box you need to do the following:

• As in previous cases, you first need to decide on the size and design of the container, that is, how many sections it will have. The optimal size of the sides of each section of the two-section version is 800×1000 or 1000×1000 mm. The height of all walls, except the front one, should be 700÷1000 mm, depending on the expected amount of waste. The front wall can have a height of 300÷500 mm, which will be convenient for loading waste and sampling finished humus.
• Having chosen a site for installing the box and marking it, the top layer of soil is removed from it by 200÷250 mm for free penetration of soil moisture and earthworms into the mass.
• To secure the slate sheets in a vertical position, wooden or metal posts are installed around the perimeter of the site. They may be required from four to six, depending on the design of the composter.
• Then slate is attached to the vertical posts. It is desirable that a gap of 20÷25 mm remains between the lower edge of the sheets and the soil surface, which will allow oxygen to freely flow into the lower layers of the plant mass.

For faster processing, it is recommended to moisten the stacked waste by adding composting agents with live bacteria to the water.

The sixth option is a compost pit in the ground

This is probably the most common method of arranging a compost pit, which is often chosen by less experienced gardeners. As you can see from the information presented above, this is far from the most successful option for a composter, since the plant waste in it will begin to rot rather than decompose.

Prices for metal mesh

metal grid

Such a pit is best used simply for dumping organic waste that is not intended for the production of humus. If a pit is built specifically for this purpose, then it is best to locate it away from residential buildings, since rotting garbage attracts a large number of flies that will try to visit not only the garbage pit, but also the premises of the house.

If this option nevertheless turns out to be attractive as a compost pit, then the plant waste stored in it will have to be loosened very often in order to provide the aeration necessary for proper processing.

It is not difficult to equip such a pit - to do this, dig a pit 400÷600 mm deep away from the house. The size of its sides may vary, but the optimal option is 600×600 or 700×700 mm. The large size of an unsupported pit can lead to erosion processes in the soil around it, that is, it will begin to crumble and expand. If you need a hole of larger size, then its walls need to be reinforced with at least slate, placing it to the full depth.

It is recommended to sprinkle kitchen waste, such as vegetable and fruit peelings, dumped into a pit with grass and a small amount of soil - this will partially help hide the unpleasant odor that attracts flies.

It would be useful to add special substances to such a composter, however, it is necessary to choose environmentally friendly preparations, since the chemicals can spread with rain and ground moisture into the garden beds or get under the roots of trees.

The seventh option is composting waste directly on the ground

Another method of preparing fertilizers, which is often used in rural areas, is storing plant residues in the form of a stack. This is the simplest method of producing compost, accessible to any owner. However, it has some inconveniences, since loosening the mass folded in a stack, as well as getting ready-made compost from under the upper fresh layers, is quite inconvenient.

If you still decide to opt for this option, then before laying the waste it is recommended to lay a layer of branches on the ground, which will allow oxygen to freely penetrate into the lower layers of the stack. In this option, the compost will reach full maturity after one and a half to two years.

If it is not possible to build a composter and even carry out the labor-intensive work of constructing and loosening a stack of plant waste, then there is another simple way to make compost. It can be called “female”, since all this is done without any special physical effort.

In this case, the waste is also placed directly on top of the soil. The best place for this will be partial shade, which can always be found under the trees of the garden. You can organize such a composter directly on a temporarily unused garden bed, covering the plant waste with any dark material. This compost pile does not need to be high, so it can be easily loosened with a fork. If there is a lot of waste collected, then several piles are organized in different parts of the garden. With this approach, the finished humus will not have to be transported from one corner of the garden to another, since it will be produced in the area that needs to be fertilized.

Find out how to do it with step-by-step instructions in a new article on our portal.

However, in this case, there is no way to do without bioactivators. Work on compost production takes place in the following order:

• A pile of plant waste no more than 500 mm high is placed on the soil. Each layer is sprinkled with garden soil.
• Then, all waste is watered, since all layers must be wet.
• Next, according to the attached instructions, the bioactivator is diluted, infused, and the entire heap is watered with this solution.
• The wet biomass is covered with dark material, but in such a way that the lower part of the heap is slightly open for free access of oxygen. If there is no dark film or, then an old oilcloth that does not let in sunlight will do. The corners of the covering material are pressed against the ground by heavy objects, such as stones or bricks.
• The finished structure is left to reheat. Well, you need to loosen it about once every two weeks.
• According to experienced summer residents who use this method of producing humus, its full ripening occurs within 5–6 months.

Biological products for making compost

Now a few words should be said about the preparations that are used to prepare compost.

Today in specialized stores you can find a large number of different products that help reduce the decomposition period of biological waste.

When bioactivators are used to make compost, it matures much faster than when plant waste decomposes under natural conditions. And this is especially important when the site needs to be fertilized annually, since it is constantly used for growing crops.

Bioactive products containing , contribute not only to the rapid production of humus, but also to the destruction of harmful microorganisms, the elimination of unpleasant odors, and the enrichment of the soil with minerals. The preparation of solutions from concentrates is carried out according to the instructions provided by the manufacturer on the packaging. However, experienced gardeners advise adding a little sugar or old jam to them after diluting bioactivators. This will help give a kind of “acceleration” to the initial activation of living bacteria that are in a “dormant” state before breeding. After dilution, the solution should sit a little. It’s interesting - if you mix it in a bucket, you can even visually observe how the activation process goes.

The table below presents several preparations that can be found in stores that sell products for treating and fertilizing garden plots.

If the above-mentioned products are not found in the nearest store, the seller will definitely offer other options for bioactivators. Before purchasing the selected drug, you should carefully study its characteristics, the manufacturer’s recommendations for use and instructions for preparing the working solution.

In conclusion, I would like to say that based on the information presented above about the existing options for arranging a composter for processing plant waste, it is quite possible to decide on the choice of a suitable option. This depends on financial capabilities and practical experience working with various materials and tools. And the presence of a compost pit in a garden plot, in any incarnation, is always a big plus.

And for complete information, watch a very informative video that contains recommendations for making compost yourself from plant waste.

Video: Tips for a gardener on making quality compost

Everyone has heard about the value of compost, even beginning gardeners. However, the rules for its formation and application are not known to everyone. Many people think that in order for compost to be successful, it is enough to dump waste and plant debris in one place during the summer, and everything is ready for spring. However, this is far from the case, and in order for your compost heap to truly become valuable material, you need to work on it.

Compost. ©GGWTV Content:

What is compost?

If you look in the encyclopedia, you can find an exact description of what compost is: compost is a type of organic fertilizer obtained as a result of the decomposition of organic residues under the influence of the activity of various microorganisms. Consequently, several components are necessary for its formation: organic matter itself, microorganisms and conditions for their life. Based on this, let's look at how to make compost with your own hands.

What is a compost heap made of?

The first thing you need to understand when creating a compost heap is that not everything can be thrown into it.

What can you put in compost?

Can: any plant residues (cut grass, chopped tree branches, weeds, leaves, tops), organic waste from the kitchen table (vegetable peelings, egg shells, tea leaves, coffee grounds), straw used for bedding for livestock, hay, manure (preferably horse or cow), paper.

What should you not put in compost?

It is forbidden: disease-infected plants, rhizomes of harmful weeds, fats, inorganic waste, synthetic fabrics. It is not recommended to add cabbage to compost, as its rotting causes an unpleasant odor, as well as meat waste, since in addition to the stench, they also attract rats.

But that's not all. When forming a compost heap, you need to remember two rules. First, the smaller the waste, the faster it rots. Secondly, the ratio of green (nitrogen-rich) and brown (fiber-poor) masses should be 1:5. This ratio will allow bacteria to fully develop and significantly speed up the process of compost maturation.

Since it is difficult to form a compost heap at one time and in most cases it is laid out gradually, it is quite difficult to understand by eye the amount of green and brown components contained in it. But there are principles that you can rely on to understand what needs to be added: if the compost heap has an unpleasant odor, it means it lacks the brown component; if it is cool and has no visible fumes, it is necessary to add green mass. If the balance is maintained, the compost heap should smell like earth, emit warmth, be moist and steam a little.

Ideally, a composting pile is laid out in layers with alternating not only green and brown contents, but also finer and coarser fractions of components. After final formation, it is covered with a layer of earth (5 cm), and then with old straw or a specially perforated film (for ventilation).

Forming a compost heap

Collecting organic remains in one place is not everything. For convenience and a neat appearance, the area allocated for the formation of compost must be fenced. However, it is better to do this not with slate or metal, but by forming a wooden frame. This is necessary so that the heap can “breathe”. The dimensions for the box should be approximately 1.5 x 1 m (the first indicator is width, the second is height), the length can be any.

The location chosen to form the compost heap is also important. Firstly, it must be protected from winds and the scorching midday sun. Secondly, it is hidden from prying eyes. And, if necessary, decorated with green plantings or climbing plants.

The best period for the formation of a planned business is autumn, rich in plant residues, as well as spring and summer. Winter is not suitable for composting due to unfavorable temperature conditions.

Before you start laying organic matter, it is good to lay a film or a layer of peat 10 cm thick on the bottom of the future heap, deepened into the ground (20 cm). This will preserve nutrients and moisture. AND!!! You should not resort to the method of collecting residues in a pit, since excess moisture often collects in compost pits, which worsens and lengthens the composting process.

Composter structure. © University of Tennessee

Compost heap care

Now that we know the basic principles of forming a compost heap, we need to remember the rules for caring for it, since it depends on their implementation whether the compost will have time to form in a year or not, whether it will be complete and of high quality. And these rules are quite simple.

1. The compost heap must be turned once a month. In this case, it is good to achieve the most complete mixing of the residues. This will make the organic matter loose, enrich it with oxygen, and allow it to burn out rather than rot. If shoveling a pile is difficult for you, at least pierce it on all sides with a fork.
2. It is very important to monitor the moisture content of the compost pile. If it dries out, moisturize it regularly. However, you can’t go overboard here, but remember that wet doesn’t mean wet! Excess moisture displaces air, which means it impairs the functioning of the bacteria necessary for composting. So carefully water your pile with a watering can rather than a hose, preferring to under-water rather than over-water. During periods of prolonged rain and after watering, cover it with film.
3. If you want to speed up the process of compost maturation, make sure that enough nitrogen gets into the pile - it is found in the green parts of plants and slurry. We discussed above how to determine their deficiency.

Compost readiness indicators

How long it will take for the compost heap to mature depends on the conditions provided for it. Typically, complete decomposition of organic residues occurs in 1–1.5 years. The readiness of the fertilizer is determined visually and by smell - the organic matter becomes a crumbly dark brown mass with the smell of forest soil.

Any owner of a summer cottage is faced with the need to fertilize his garden. To do this, you can use chemical fertilizers, or natural ones. The optimal solution in this case is to use a compost pit. Another advantage of creating a garden composter is that it is environmentally friendly, since all organic waste can be turned into useful compost rather than being taken to a landfill.

Where to set up a compost heap

First of all, you should take care of the purity of drinking water, so the well or well should be located at a distance of about 25 m from the heap and preferably located higher (if there is a slope on the site).

Of course, the composter may smell unpleasant, so it is important to place it further from the kitchen, gazebo or veranda (yours and your neighbors), taking into account the most common wind direction. It is ideal to locate the compost pit closer to the vegetable garden or garden in the shade of trees, while providing easy access to it for a garden wheelbarrow or aisle with a trash can.

The compost pit is designed for recycling organic waste and producing compost - a natural substrate that significantly improves soil quality. There are a lot of options for arranging such a pit, and one of them is making the structure yourself. How to independently install a practical, convenient pit for processing and storing compost?

Compost: subtleties of the issue

Land enrichment is an important stage in the process of creating optimal conditions for the growth of fruitful crops. Not in all areas you can find decent, high-quality black soil. Experienced gardeners recommend fertilizing areas that require additional fertilizing with compost: in comparison with chemicals, it is absolutely harmless and gives unsurpassed results.

And although there is an opinion about the dangers of compost pits, which supposedly emit unpleasant odors that permeate the air, this can be easily avoided thanks to proper waste disposal and supporting bacterial activity. How to do this should be described in more detail.

Choosing a location for a compost pit

Correctly selected location of the pit is the first and most important stage that determines the success of the planned business as a whole. Consider three main criteria:

1. Distance from residential buildings - rotting organic waste has an unpleasant aesthetic appearance and has a specific smell, and therefore it is better to place it at the greatest possible distance (at least 30 m).
2. Lowlands and hills - pay attention to the flatness of the site: the location of the pit on the hills should not be allowed, because during snow melting or rain, waste products can “spread” across the site. The pit should be built at the lowest point.
3. Individual preferences - for some it is more convenient to keep the compost “at hand” by placing the hole in the center of the plot, while others, on the contrary, want to move it out of sight: it all depends on the characteristics of the territory and the personal criteria of the gardener.

Important! The hole should not be laid in the open sun.

Taking into account the above criteria will allow us to minimize the negative factors characteristic of compost pits without causing discomfort to the land plot and nearby residential buildings.

Types of compost pits

There are several options for arranging waste recycling sites. Most often, composting facilities are installed in the form of:

1. Classic earthen pit.
2. A semi-submerged bunker.
3. Compost bin.

Each option can be designed in-house, each has unique features - it is simply impossible to say that one pit is superior in its performance characteristics to other designs. What are the main differences?

Classic earthen pit

It is the simplest way to maintain compost, representing a hole dug in the ground with standard dimensions of 1m x 2m and a depth of 0.5m. The volume of the pit can be increased due to the large dimensions of the site.

All that is required when creating an earthen pit is a sharpened shovel and a little effort. However, long-term use of the structure requires strengthening the walls using any available means.

The technology for creating a conventional earthen pit for compost involves a number of sequential actions:

• remove the soil with a shovel, forming a hole of the required size;
• wooden beams are dug into the corners of the pit, to which boards are nailed at a distance of no more than 5 cm, forming a box without a bottom;
• thick branches, tree bark, straw, etc. are thrown at the bottom of the structure as a kind of drainage 10-15 m high: the drainage layer will remove excess moisture and help the compost to be ventilated from below.

The compost in the pit is in direct contact with the ground, which facilitates access for earthworms, which actively convert the soil into humus. Among the pit's disadvantages are the frequent need to mix the contents, as well as the inconvenience of loading operations.

Semi-submerged bunker

A design for waste processing such as a semi-submersible bunker can last for several seasons, and its installation does not require excessive effort:

• a hole about 1 m deep is dug in the ground, formwork is placed around its perimeter so that the concrete walls of the structure rise above ground level by about 1 m;
• the formwork is filled with concrete, and the bunker can be divided into two, three or more sections, depending on agricultural needs. Partitions between sections are also laid from concrete using formwork or made from boards treated with a protective primer;
• the wall formwork is removed, the bottom of the pit is filled with concrete screed;
• A cover made of mesh and metal frames is installed in the upper part of the pit. The main thing when installing a bunker roof is the presence of holes that allow air circulation inside the pit.

The semi-submersible bunker is easy to use, easy to maintain, and does not require costly repair work.

Important! The lack of contact between the compost and the soil requires periodic watering of the contents of the bin and planting earthworms in it.

An above-ground “compost factory” can be easily made from available materials at hand - scraps of boards, old barrels, unnecessary car tires. The lightest version of the compost bin is mounted using boards and pallets:

1. Prepare planks of the required length and width.
2. On the intended plot of land, remove the turf, dig 6 posts at a distance equal to the length of the prepared boards.
3. Nail the boards to the posts, leaving gaps between them.

Important! Processing compost in a bin requires careful maintenance of moisture levels and repeated watering, especially during periods of drought.

Compost bins are presented in a wide range on the shelves of gardening stores - those who do not want to bother with tools can purchase a plastic waste storage facility, which is in no way inferior in performance to its wooden counterparts.

Compost: desirable and undesirable ingredients

What type of waste should be placed in a compost pit in order to obtain high-quality, high-quality fertilizer that brings the maximum amount of useful substances to the soil? The leading positions in the list of compost raw materials are occupied by any waste of plant origin - from fallen leaves to vegetable peelings. In addition, it is necessary and important to use:

• paper (except for colored and laminated);
• poultry droppings (turkey, pigeon, chicken, etc.);
• manure (cow, horse);
• fish waste (scales, tails, heads, entrails).

Important! Laying compost categorically does not allow the addition of protein waste (dairy products, lost soups, etc.), since they not only emit extremely unpleasant odors, but also attract “unexpected guests” to the pit - rodents, dogs and cats.

The quality of compost can be improved by:

1. Phosphorus flour (2 kg per 100 kg of waste).
2. Ashes.
3. The soil that is poured over each subsequent layer of waste accelerates the rotting process.

Remember to periodically water and stir the compost, making sure that the water in it does not stagnate.

Waste stacking

Correct and rapid decomposition of waste is facilitated by:

1. Moisture.
2. Access to oxygen.
3. Adding special accelerators.

Gardeners can easily ensure the humidity level themselves by generously watering waste during hot weather.

Access to oxygen is ensured through the correct construction of a compost pit, bunker or box, as well as through competent technique for laying raw materials, according to which dry waste should alternate with fresh, hard with soft, brown with green.

Accelerators of decay processes are sold in garden stores in the form of concentrates, which you just need to dilute with a small amount of warm water and pour the mixture over the compost.

Among the organic accelerators are fresh manure, infused in water for several days, or finely chopped dandelions, filled with water and left in a sunny place for 3-4 days.

Compost, prepared taking into account all the recommendations and requirements, has the appearance of rich, loose soil with a characteristic earthy smell - it can be placed under trees and shrubs, used to mulch strawberries or fertilize the site. And most importantly, a compost pit does not require any special financial costs, becoming an indispensable waste recycler.

DIY compost pit - video

DIY compost pit - photo