DIY compost pit made from boards. DIY compost pit options: DIY with photo and video instructions. Video - Do-it-yourself concrete ring for a composter

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Compost – faithful assistant gardener in caring for plants and improving soil properties. It is used to improve soil quality, as a fertilizer, and for mulching. Making compost with your own hands at your dacha does not require much effort or large material costs. To do this, you just need to choose and arrange a suitable place where you can compost herbs and other organic waste. Let's look at how to make a compost heap and use it correctly.

Rules for the location of the compost pit

Before making a compost pit, you need to select correct area in the country where your organic fertilizer will mature. To do this, it is important to adhere to the following rules:

• to prevent composting waste from getting into drinking water, the pile is placed no closer than 30 meters from sources - wells, boreholes, streams and other bodies of water;
• if there is a slope on the plot, the pit is located below the level of water sources;

• the pile settles away from residential buildings, the prevailing winds are taken into account so that the smell of composted grass does not cause inconvenience to either you or your neighbors in the country;
• It is undesirable to leave fertilizer in the open sun - in such conditions decomposition processes organic matter slow down or stop completely, so it is better to place the pit in the shade.

Important! It is necessary to provide free access to the pit so that nothing interferes with laying waste and removing the finished compost in a wheelbarrow.

Construction of a compost pit

Universal sizes for compost heap are:

• width – 1.5 m;
• length – 2 m;
• height above ground level – 1.5 m;
• depth – 0.5 m.

The design is made of both open and closed types.

1. For the most ordinary compost heap open type At the dacha they dig a shallow hole. The walls are covered with slate. The bottom of the pit does not need to be insulated; through it there should be free access to the compost for worms and microorganisms that promote fermentation. Leaves, herbs and other organic waste are placed at the bottom. To prevent the spread of smell, cover with a tarpaulin.

Open design

2. A closed pit involves more complex design. A wooden or concrete frame. The wood is pre-treated with compounds that will prevent the material from rotting. The frame is sheathed with timber, boards or covered with brick. It is more convenient to make a structure with a pitched lid, which is attached to hinges to one of the sides.

Closed option

Filling the compost pit

The compost pit can be filled gradually as organic residues accumulate. But if your goal is to fertilize the area as quickly as possible, then it is better to fill it right away. Not only herbs are suitable for this, but also other waste that often appears in the country.
The following compost laying scheme is optimal:

1. the lowest layer is formed from cut branches or large sawdust, roots and bark of trees; there may also be fallen leaves and pine needles;
2. the next layer is filled with plant debris - unsuitable for food raw vegetables and berries, grass, straw, you can also put shredded paper and cardboard;
3. the third layer is formed by rotted manure of herbivores or bird droppings. You can add ammonium nitrate.

Reference. When filling a compost pit, take into account the composition of the soil in your area. If the soils are acidic, add wood ash.

The second and third layers are alternated until the hole is completely filled.

Diagram of a compost heap

As the remains decompose, all contents are periodically shoveled.
Not all plant residues are allowed to be composted.

1. It is unacceptable for it to go there weed with seeds or vegetables infected with late blight and other fungal diseases. Together with the compost, they will move to the site and continue their harmful effects among healthy crops.
2. Do not throw bones and meat waste, insects, polyethylene and other synthetics, as well as plants treated with chemicals into the compost.

Watering the compost heap

Compost fertilizer must be watered. The humidity level must be sufficient for the effective functioning of microorganisms that contribute to the formation of useful organic elements.
Watering is carried out warm water. After moistening, the pile is covered with film to create a greenhouse effect. To speed up decomposition, add a glass of sugar diluted in warm water with yeast to the fertilizer. This will increase the speed of compost maturation several times.

Component balance

The ripening process is accompanied by the release of heat. This is easy to check when the owner shovels the compost. In the center the temperature reaches +60…+70°С. If the contents are cold to the touch, add more nitrogenous components - grains, bread products, rotting fruits and vegetables, rotted manure.

Another scheme for constructing a compost heap

Ideally, compost should be made from equal amounts of nitrogenous and carbonaceous materials. The latter contribute to greater breathability. These include: straw, grass, sawdust, paper, shredded cardboard.

compost pit - This is a place for recycling organic waste. As a result of the activity of microorganisms, garden waste decomposes in it, which becomes the basis for highly effective organic fertilizer. In this article we will look at options for making a compost pit with your own hands.

In one form or another, compost pits, in the form of simple heaps of garbage, are present on every personal plot. But correct designs in the form of modern composters or specially equipped boxes can increase the amount of valuable fertilizer and the speed of its creation.

The simplest compost pit can be made with your own hands from household scraps. building materials available at the dacha.

Principles of constructing a compost pit

The main function of a compost pit is to create the most comfortable environment for the life of bacteria, microorganisms, and earthworms, the quantity of which determines the speed of the process and the quality of the resulting compost. To do this, the inside of the compost heap must be maintained fairly heat and humidity with a regular supply of oxygen.

To do this, the compost container must have the following design features:

Compost bins are made from any available materials. These can be boards, slate scraps, corrugated sheets, metal construction mesh and even car tires. More permanent structures are built from brick or concrete. There are also lightweight, portable waste disposal units in metal or plastic barrels.

Main sanitary requirement when constructing a compost pit, its distance is 20 meters from reservoirs and sources drinking water. Rain streams should not flow from the compost heap in the direction of wells, boreholes, and swimming pools.

Choosing a site for a compost pit

The location of the composter on the site should not become a source of infection groundwater, a threat to human and animal health. Do not place the compost bin in wetlands or areas with standing water.

The external design of the compost pit can be absolutely anything. It can be decorated with beautifully painted boards, fenced with plantings of loach and perennial, ornamental plants.

Making a compost pit with your own hands

In a garden or personal plot, you can use the most simple tools manufacture high-quality construction and turn piles of garden waste and decomposing household waste into valuable fertilizer. There are the most different kinds compost heaps, from earthen ditches to actual concrete structures.

Compost pit in the ground

To create a compost bin:

1. A site is selected in the ground away from residential buildings.
2. On an area 1.5 m wide and of arbitrary length, remove upper layer turf and soil.
3. The bottom of the pit should be located at a depth of no more than 0.5 meters.
4. The bottom is covered with a sand cushion to drain excess water.

The first layer serves as drainage and promotes aeration of the pile and consists of trimmed branches.

The following are laid on them in layers:

• cut grass;
• dry leaves;
• sawdust;
• household food waste;
• manure;
• weeds.

The layers are sprinkled with peat or garden soil and spilled with water. To speed up the decomposition process, it is advisable to chop all the ingredients before adding them, simply chopping them with a shovel.

The total height of the pile should not exceed 1.5 meters. This means that it will rise 1 meter above the ground. The structure is protected from above with covering material or a slate shield. IN hot weather The pile is watered with plain water.

IN natural conditions microorganisms will be able to process such a waste dump in two summer seasons. This is the simplest and economical way obtaining compost.

Use EM drugs. A temperature of +4°C inside the compost heap is sufficient for microorganisms to successfully process waste.

Making a compost pit from boards

For ease of use and speeding up the recycling process, the compost container is made of boards. Optimal size compost bin 1x1.5 meters.

Instructions for making a pit from boards:

Place garbage in such a container through the top general principle, starting from the branches. And you can rake out the finished compost from below.

Photo: drawing of a compost box, composter diagram

Options for compost pits made from boards

Slate is durable and perfect for the walls of a compost bin. You can use both wave and flat sheet slate.

Options for making a slate composter:

1. Markings are made at the location of the compost heap and deepen the sheets cut to size. They can be secured with external, wooden or iron sheathing.
2. In another version metal pipes buried in the ground. A frame of bars is attached to them. The outside is sheathed with slate. The second design is more durable.

All wooden elements should be treated with an antiseptic to avoid rotting. A cover for the pit is made from plywood or boards. The front wall of the pit is made lower, at a level of 40-50 cm above ground level. Rigid walls allow you to cover the pit with film or garden covering material.

Compost pit made of corrugated sheets

When making a compost bin from corrugated sheets, choose a material with an anti-corrosion coating.

Work order:

1. At the selected location, a base is constructed from a metal or wooden block.
2. The dimensions of the pit are selected according to the length of the sheets, which allows you to make a compost bin with two or three compartments.
3. The base is made, as for a wooden structure.
4. On the outside, the profile strips are fastened with self-tapping screws with gaps of 3-5 cm.
5. It must be taken into account that the metal surface gets very hot during hot summer periods.
6. A cover of plywood or boards is made on top. It is advisable to cover the frame with a protective compound.

Metal mesh compost bin

To make compost, you can make a cylindrical container from a metal mesh. In such a cylinder, the compost is well ventilated and does not rot.

How to make a compost bin:

To simplify, you can put a large film bag (polyethylene) inside the basket, which is used for garbage. These baskets are easy to assemble and install anywhere. They are filled with waste according to the principle of a compost pit. Compost can also be made in special bags, which are sold in garden centers.

Concreted compost pit

A concrete compost pit creates many advantages:

• Thick walls maintain a positive temperature for a long time.
• Such a pit is durable and reliable, not subject to the influence of adverse natural conditions.

It is advisable to make it large, with two or even three compartments. In the first and second blocks, compost from different seasons will ripen. In the third, bags of finished compost are stored.

How to make a concrete compost pit:

When using a concrete pit, you need to take into account that the process of making compost is slow. To speed up the process, you need to manually add earthworms or commercially available special products.

Other material options for compost pits

Compost pit made from car tires

Car tires are quite suitable for arranging a compost heap:

Compost in an iron barrel

Old iron barrels are great for composting:

1. We cut out both bottoms with a chisel and place them near the path.
2. We put weeds, grass clippings, and kitchen waste into the barrel in layers.
3. To increase the temperature, you can paint the barrel black and pour the compost solution ammonium nitrate (Matchbox per bucket of water).
4. We take out the finished compost from below. To do this, you need to lift the barrel with a crowbar.

To improve the design:

1. Using a grinder (angle grinder), you need to cut the barrel into two unequal parts and punch holes in the walls for air circulation.
2. Then we put them on the butt and connect them with wire or rope. Cover the top with a lid.
3. The advantages of this design are that the contents of the barrel are easily accessible to worms and bacteria from below.
4. To get the finished compost you just need to untie the rope and you will get two hundred liters of ready-made fertilizer.

Compost in a plastic barrel

The ideal compost bin material is plastic. In conventional compost heaps, the compost takes two years to prepare. In plastic barrels with a capacity of 150-200 liters, you can prepare liquid compost in two weeks.

For this:

1. Fill the barrel halfway with mowed grass or weeds, and fill it with water to the top.
2. After about three days, the fermentation process will begin.
3. After using the solution, you can add water to the barrel again and let it brew for one week.
4. Having used up the liquid compost completely, the remaining grass is placed in a compost heap.

Brick compost pit

The compost pit is made of brick and has three walls. It can be done on cement mortar or without it. A compost pit using cement mortar is made no more than 1 meter high. Gaps must be left between the bricks for ventilation.

A compost pit made of bricks without a cement binder is convenient in that it can be moved to another location if necessary.

In the compost pit, you need to provide a place for throwing the compost mass. Make a lid from available material. The front wall is made temporary to make it convenient to remove the finished compost.

Compost pit made of concrete rings

In the inner cavity of the concrete ring, you can successfully store garden waste and, as a result, obtain compost. For comfort the ring is partially buried in the ground, and after filling, cover with a lid or film material.

One of the disadvantages of the design is the lack of a low front wall. To unload the finished compost you need to climb inside. Otherwise, such reinforced concrete products make very durable compost chambers.

Compost pit using Finnish technology

If you don’t want to make a compost pit, you can purchase a composter at Finnish technology. It is modern with two containers with a capacity of 80 liters. Its contents are mixed with a layer of peat and sawdust. You can also recycle food.

When the container is full, it is pulled out and another one is inserted. Due to its high concentration, the finished compost is mixed with soil or sand and fertilized with plants. The vacated container is washed and returned to its place.

Compost pits and cesspools should not be confused. Organic matter is stored in containers for preparing compost. garden plot. Remains of protein food should be disposed of in a cesspool.

What can and cannot be put in a compost bin?

Thanks to composting, the amount of waste in landfills is reduced, and our gardens and gardens receive additional fertilizers.

First of all, organic garden waste is placed in the compost pit, in the form of:

• branches;
• dry leaves;
• mown grass;
• weeds;
• straw.

Good ingredients for a compost heap are:

• food leftovers from vegetarian food;
• egg shells;
• onion peel.

You can layer the compost with manure and chicken droppings.

Prohibited compost heap ingredients include:

• construction and household waste high in phenols;
• remnants of printed products;
• plastic.

Do not put leftover protein and oily foods into compost, as they decompose slowly and attract mice and rats.

From plant residues, weeds with ripened seeds and roots that can take root well, such as:

• sow thistle;
• wheatgrass;
• loach.

Drought-tolerant plants need to be dried out before being placed in the compost heap so that they lose their ability to take root. Sawdust can be used in moderation as it decomposes slowly and takes up nitrogen. They also do not use feces of domestic animals or humans for composting.

Preparations for compost pit

The main task of drugs containing biological activators is to accelerate decomposition processes with the help of microorganisms.

The preparations do an excellent job of processing organic matter and do not allow pathogenic microflora to develop in the compost pit:

1. Compost preparation can be significantly accelerated by using Baikal EM. This preparation contains effective microorganisms (EM).
2. The drug "Doctor Robik" significantly increases the number of effective microorganisms (EM) in the compost. They process organic matter into humus, and also prevent pathogenic microflora from developing and destroy the larvae of harmful insects.
3. The bioactivator has similar properties. The Green-Master bioactivator package should be diluted in 20 liters warm water, let it sit for 4 hours and water the compost heap. After 2 weeks you need to turn the pile over with a pitchfork. To prepare compost, one treatment with a bioactivator solution is sufficient.
4. Compost Boost gives good results. for composting.
5. Manufacturer Happy Summer Resident produces “Biocompostin”– a means for preparing compost. Sanex Plus produces EcoCompost.
6. The manufacturer Dezon Bio K produces several types of drugs:“Green universal”, “Compost for one season”, “Compost for the next agricultural season”, “Bioactivator for compost”.

By using preparations you can significantly speed up microbiological processes and obtain compost in 2-3 months.

Bioactivator preparations for compost

Rules for operating a compost pit

After building a compost bin and filling it, all that remains is to occasionally look inside and, depending on the changes that occur, adjust the decomposition process.

Tips for using the composter:

1. During dry periods, it is necessary to water the compost with plain water. preventing it from overheating, which leads to a reduction in the population of certain types of beneficial bacteria.
2. You should loosen your compost heap at least once every two weeks., thereby ensuring an influx of oxygen into all, even the lowest, layers.
3. Add “Effective Microorganisms” to the compost content in the form of solutions and various additives.
4. To speed up the process, you can add ready-made compost substrate, which contains full complex microbiological activators.
5. If the pit design does not have a top cover, then simply tighten the upper part with a covering garden material black, which will increase the temperature and greenhouse effect inside the structure.

Summarizing

Creating a compost pit does not require serious material investments. You can make it with my own hands from scrap materials, which are always sufficient in any personal plot.

Having spent a little time making a compost pit, you will not have to deal with the problems of disposing of garden and household waste in the future.

How to make a compost pit correctly - sooner or later every owner of a suburban area faces this question. From this article you will learn how to properly arrange a place for obtaining natural fertilizers.

Compost - effective remedy to increase soil fertility. Even novice gardeners know this. But, unfortunately, not everyone knows how to set up a compost pit. There are many nuances in this matter. And only a competent approach will allow you to “kill two birds with one stone” - dispose of household waste and lay the foundations for a rich harvest.

Choosing a suitable place

If you are puzzling over the question of how to properly make a compost pit, then the first thing you should take care of is the choice suitable place.

As a rule, a compost heap is set up in outbuildings, at the back of the site. Do not place the pit too close to a drinking water source. Optimal distance it is 25 meters away. The place should be shaded, because straight sunlight slows down processing processes. It is important to take into account the direction of the wind; it is unlikely that the neighbors will be delighted with the smell emitted by the future fertilizer.

Think about ease of access too. Many people forget about this, and then suffer with the storage of garbage and the selection of humus. It’s good if the surface of the earth is flat - stagnation of water reduces the flow of oxygen, which will significantly extend the “cooking” time of the most valuable additive.

Have you chosen a location for your composter? Great! Clear the ground of turf and loosen it to a depth of 30 cm. This way you will create favorable conditions for the vital activity of worms and other beneficial microorganisms that take an active part in processing.

About sizes and design features

So, we sorted out the place for the composter. And here a new question arises: what size should a compost pit be? The size is determined according to the “two cycles” principle. That is, the first half of the pit should be occupied by waste that has accumulated over 2 years, the second half by “young” compost (no older than 2 years).

It is important to understand that the larger the compost pit, the faster it heats up to the desired temperature (up to 60 degrees). If the pit is small, then it, of course, will also heat up, but hardly to the temperature levels at which all pathogenic flora and weeds die. Experts recommend laying a compost heap with the following dimensions: height - at least 1.2 m, width - 1.5 m, length - 2 m.

Be sure to provide a removable lid for the composter. Do not cover the bottom with film, rubber, metal sheets or slate. They will prevent moisture from passing upward, which means the compost will be dry. Best gender for a compost pit - earthen.

Manufacturing options

Compost heaps can be of several types. We will consider the arrangement options, and you will choose the most convenient for you.

Ordinary pit

The “composter for the lazy” is an ordinary shallow pit. First, lay tree bark, hay or branches on the bottom. Next - plant and food residues. Cover it up with black plastic film. After each new waste is dumped, cover it with grass. To be honest, this option cannot be called successful - the contents of the pit will not warm up enough, and a lot of effort will have to be spent on mixing. It's better to try and build something more effective.

Wooden two-section composter

A wooden box immersed in the ground is the most common option. Dig a hole about 50-80 cm deep, 1.5-2 meters wide and 2-3 meters long. Dig support beams in the corners, 20 cm away from the edges of the hole. Pipe sections will do a good job with this task. Pre-treat them with a bioprotective composition.

Assemble three walls of the box from boards, providing ventilation holes. Install and level if necessary. Divide the composter into two parts using a wooden board. The first compartment is for “old” compost, the second is for “young” compost. Screw the front wall.

Cover the bottom with straw or tree bark. This will protect against the accumulation of excess liquid and ensure normal air exchange. The cover can be made from a sheet of plywood attached to back wall through loops. Process first wooden parts impregnation that protects against moisture and insects, and then cover acrylic paint in two layers.

You can divide the compost pit not into two, but into three sections. The first compartment is for finished compost, the second is for ripening compost, the third is for storing new waste.

Most often, the composter is made of wood, but if desired, you can use slate, metal sheets or brick.

Composter with one section

If a two- or three-compartment composter seems inconvenient to you, then you can make a pit with one compartment. Place the wooden box so that there is 30 cm between the ground and the edges. The mature compost will be selected from this hole. New raw materials are laid on top, that is, there is no need to loosen the fertilizer. In principle it is very convenient.

Concreted pit

For those who want to make a compost pit once and not worry about it anymore, we should recommend a concrete “tank”. Mark the area (approximately 2x3 meters) and dig a shallow trench (70-80 cm). Build formwork 10-12 cm thick around the perimeter of the future composter. Prepare concrete and pour it into the formwork. After final hardening, the formwork is disassembled. Place waste in the hole and cover it with film, metal mesh or wooden shields. That's all.

Plastic containers

A modern interpretation of a traditional pit that requires some modification. Plastic does not allow air to pass through, so you will have to make ventilation holes yourself. This can be difficult to do. It is better to buy a ready-made plastic composter equipped with a lid, ventilation ducts and lower doors for laying out fertilizers. Volume may vary. On average - from 400 to 1000 liters. The cost varies from 2 to 10 thousand rubles.

When the work on arranging a compost pit is completed, you should think about how to use it correctly. After all, how quickly you get humus and how nutritious it will be directly depends on this.

• From time to time, “comb” the contents of the pit with a pitchfork. This will ensure access to oxygen and speed up the rotting process;
• do not forget to water the compost heap - dry waste does not decompose;
• The film covering the pit will help speed up the “cooking” process;
• sometimes add worms to the box and add drugs that activate decomposition (Compostin, Compostar, Baikal EM-1, etc.);
• lay the raw materials in layers. Alternate plant residues with food waste, wet with dry;
• will speed up the decomposition process cow dung, as well as some plants (dandelion, chamomile, valerian, yarrow);
• do not compact the layers tightly, make sure that the contents are not too wet, too loose or, conversely, dry;
• There should be 5 times more dry material in the compost heap than wet material.

And finally, about what can be put into the composter and what cannot. This, by the way, is the defining moment for obtaining good fertilizer. Plant residues - mown grass, straw, tree bark, leaves, branches, wood ash - are thrown into the compost pit. Food waste will also come in handy - tea leaves, peels of fruits and vegetables, eggshell, leftover porridges and soups. Black and white newspapers, napkins, cardboard, old wool or cotton items are suitable.

To enrich the contents of the pit with nitrogen, from time to time you need to add manure, bird droppings, bone meal, bean and pea stalks to it. Don't forget about superphosphates, dolomite flour and complex mineral fertilizers.

You cannot bring in animal excrement, fats, bones, spoiled foods, tomato and potato tops, weed seeds, plants treated with herbicides, inorganic waste (rubber, plastic, glass, synthetics).

Video: Construction of a modern compost pit on a personal plot

If you have a decent plot of land, you still have to fertilize it from time to time. So why not use high-quality compost for these purposes? No, we do not suggest you buy it with delivery to personal plot. This pleasure is not cheap. It is much easier to produce this useful fertilizer yourself on your own land. All the conditions for this already exist; all that remains is to establish the system. You can combine business with pleasure: clear the site of unnecessary waste and produce selected compost. Let's find out how you can build a compost pit with your own hands and try to avoid mistakes.

What are the benefits of a compost bin?

On a plot of land, compost pits are used to store waste and surplus food. Subsequently, they decompose and turn into fertilizer quite High Quality. If you build a compost pit at your favorite dacha with your own hands at the beginning of the season, ready-made, incredibly useful fertilizer will be waiting for you in the fall. The average time for compost to “ripen” is three months. Of course, provided that the composter is made correctly and the pit is given due attention. Otherwise, the decomposition process may take 1-2 years.

Standards for the construction of compost pits

To build a good and reliable home, we need a thoughtful project. The requirements for a compost pit are not so severe, but they also exist. To speed up the ripening process of fertilizers, try to ensure a regular supply of heat, oxygen and moisture. Follow these rules:

• The pile should rise above the ground, and not be level with it or located below the soil. This is really important, because in this case the heap warms up much better, it is much more convenient to water and loosen it. We advise you to go deeper by 45-50 cm, but leave barriers of about a meter. The ideal DIY compost pit is 1.5 meters wide and 2 meters long.
• Keep in mind that if there is at least one source of water on the territory, it must be 25 meters or more from the compost pit. If the site has a certain slope, the pit is always built below the source. Otherwise, the water in it will no longer be drinkable.
• The compost pit at the dacha is located at some distance from the living space or gazebo. You don’t want to greet the morning with an unpleasant smell or barbecue in the yard, inhaling completely different “aromas”?
• It’s great if there is some kind of a big tree. For composting, it is always recommended to choose a place that is in partial shade. This will protect the pit from drying out quickly.
• You should choose the size of the pit yourself, taking into account the volumes of garbage that are in the dacha and are planned to be added in the next two years.
• Fencing for a compost pit using Finnish technology must have a height sufficient for convenient loosening and collection of compost.

Never make a slate bottom or cover it with rubber or metal. These materials prevent the soil from rising upward, but the compost will dry out regularly. The bottom is made of earth, the walls are covered with any of available materials.

Diagram of a ventilated compost bin

What is allowed to be thrown into a compost bin and what is prohibited?

Building a composter with your own hands is half the battle. To get truly high-quality fertilizer, you need to know what you can’t put in a hole and what you can.

To achieve maximum efficiency, you can safely deposit the following types of waste:

• Bark and leaves, chopped branches.
• Grass, dried weeds.
• Manure that has long been rotted, droppings from birds and other domestic animals.
• Any fruits and vegetables, as well as their peeling.
• Leftover tea.
• Small sawdust, shavings, straw.
• Ashes that remain after burning wood.

Any video about the construction and further use of such structures will confirm that ash and even paper in any form can be placed in a compost pit: cardboard, napkins. When laying fresh grass, especially if we're talking about If the layer is thick enough, the decomposition process lasts for a year. To speed it up, we recommend covering the grass with soil.

Compost filling scheme

Never pawn:

1. Bones and very thick branches. They rot long enough.
2. Inorganic products. In particular, these include rubber and polyethylene, metal and plastic, and synthetics.
3. Tomato tops, since they are often infected with late blight.
4. Plants that have previously been treated with chemicals.

Now you know for sure that you cannot put it in a compost pit under any pretext.

Popular creation methods

For a do-it-yourself compost pit, all manufacturing options can be divided into several types. Let's list them.

Regular waste pile

It is not difficult to prepare this version of the heap. All you have to do is choose the most suitable place to place the compost heap. Then gradually place the waste. If possible, they are laid in layers. For example, food scraps can be mixed with straw, green grass and manure.

As soon as the height reaches a meter, you will need to make 3-4 indentations and pour compost liquid inside. It significantly speeds up the process, so the first compost will be ready in three months.

The option described above is one of the most quick ways obtaining compost when minimum costs.

All you need to create a compost heap is a wheelbarrow and a shovel.

Classic pit

One of the manufacturing options is that you dig a small hole in the ground square shape. Cover your version of the pit with branches and hay at the bottom, as well as bark. Next, place food and vegetable waste. The temperature inside will not be very high, so it is recommended to immediately cover with film.

Please note that this option is the least successful of all. Firstly, such a pit warms up much worse. Secondly, the temperature in it is not always high. But it has a small area and is easy to arrange.

Classic compost pit

Building a compost box from wood

How to make a compost pit correctly so that the design is inexpensive and practical? To do this, you can use bars, sheets of metal with slate. The pit making process is as follows:

• You remove the top layer approximately 35-40 centimeters thick.
• Next, drive in pegs around the perimeter.
• A fence will need to be installed around the pit. You can make it from pallets, use wood blocks, boards and boards. It is also allowed to use other materials: flat and corrugated slate, polycarbonate, metal sheets.
• The height of the fence is no more than one meter. Otherwise, even with great growth, you will find it inconvenient to mix the compost.
• The structure is covered with plywood or film. Compost warms up well, so this design considered optimal in all areas.

A very original option is to build a box made of wood. The lower edges of the structure do not reach the surface by 25-30 centimeters. Boards and other materials are also attached at a certain distance from the ground. Below, the compost matures several times faster, since it is laid much earlier. Ready fertilizer is climbed from below, the pile gradually falls down. The main advantage is that there is no need to loosen the pile, because you will always have the opportunity to get required quantity compost.

Compost bin with sliding wall

Concreted pit

Perhaps the most reliable and durable option, which will serve you for decades. The arrangement of the structure is as follows. After choosing a suitable building site (about 2 by 3 meters), you will need to select soil about 60-80 cm deep. Next, you build formwork 10 cm thick around the perimeter, mix the concrete solution and pour it into the formwork. As soon as the solution hardens, the formwork must be removed. We lay the waste in layers one after another, and cover the top with wooden boards or film.

Despite the fact that this method is one of the most expensive, it certainly has no equal in terms of effectiveness. It is advisable to immediately divide compost structure into two sections. In one of them you will put this season's waste, in the other the compost from last year will decompose.

A compost bin can also be replaced by a regular one. large barrel. However, in in this case you will definitely need to use special drugs or the introduction of worms.

How to operate the pit?

In conclusion, here are some tips for those who already know how to make a compost pit with their own hands. It is equally important to use it wisely throughout the season.

1. Loosen the compost with a pitchfork from time to time. This will help oxygen penetrate inside, and waste will mix with each other.
2. Water the pile from time to time to maintain required level hydration.
3. Cover the contents with dark film to create a greenhouse effect. When the heap is covered, the compost in it can mature in even 3-4 months.
4. Plant earthworms in prepared compost. They perfectly loosen the heap and process it.

There are more than enough videos and articles on the Internet on the topic of building compost pits. They all agree that with proper construction, a compost pit can provide the owners of the site with very useful and almost free fertilizer.

Any plot of land needs periodic fertilization. What could be better than high-quality compost? Buying it and then bringing it to the site is a long and expensive task. Why not produce this valuable fertilizer directly on your own land, since all the conditions have been created for this? During the warm season, a lot of organic and plant waste accumulates on the site, which must be disposed of. It turns out that you can combine cleaning an area of ​​waste and producing compost from it. Let's look at how you can build a compost pit with your own hands, what is needed for this, and how to avoid basic mistakes in the production of fertilizers.

Compost mind on plot of land designed for laying all kinds of plant and organic residues, waste, surplus of various products. Layered in layers, these components gradually decompose, turning into high-quality fertilizer. The question arises: how to build a compost pit with your own hands so that it produces fertilizer within a season? To do this, you need to make some effort to help the compost ripen faster.

With proper care, you can get ready-made compost in just 3 months. If the pit is not given special attention, then the process of waste decomposition will continue for approximately two years.

Requirements for a compost pit

For normal and rapid maturation of compost, it needs warmth, oxygen and moisture. How to properly make a compost pit so that its contents turn into high-quality fertilizer, and the pile itself does not harm the plants and people on the site? To do this, you should familiarize yourself with some of the requirements for such structures:

• The compost heap should mostly rise above the soil level. Thanks to this, the heap warms up better and makes it easier to loosen and water. It is recommended to deepen the hole to about 50 cm, leaving barriers above the soil surface of about 1 m. Ideal width structure - 1.5 m, and its length - 2 m;
• If there is a source of drinking water on the site, for example, a well, borehole or spring, then the distance from it to the pit should not be less than 25 m;
• It is advisable to place the pit in a place that will be remote from the house or gazebo. In this case bad smell, which may come from the compost heap, will not annoy the owners of the site;
• It is advisable to place the pit in partial shade so that it is not constantly in the sun. This will help it dry out;
• How to make a compost pit so that the runoff from it does not flow through the soil into the source clean water? To do this, if the site has a slope, it is enough to place the hole below the source;
• Do not place a hole under fruit trees, as this may lead to their death;
• The dimensions of the pit are selected taking into account the amount of plant debris and waste that is available at the dacha and will remain in the pit for two years;
• Options for making a compost pit with your own hands should take into account that it is recommended to choose the height of the fences so that it is convenient to loosen and collect compost.

Tip: The bottom of the pit should not be covered with slate, metal, rubber or film. They will not allow moisture to rise up from the soil, as a result of which the compost will constantly dry out. The bottom must certainly be earthen. But the walls can be covered with any material.

What can and cannot be thrown into a compost bin?

A compost pit built with your own hands will justify its purpose if it contains the following types waste:

• leaves, bark, needles, chopped branches and roots;
• weeded and mowed weeds, grass;
• bird droppings and rotted biennial manure;
• vegetables, fruits and berries, including peelings;
• leftover coffee, tea;
• hay, sawdust, shavings, straw;
• ash from burning wood;
• paper, paper bags, cardboard, napkins.

Advice: If it is laid in a hole thick layer fresh grass, the process of its decomposition may take six months to a year. In this case, cover the grass with soil.

The following cannot be placed in a hole:

• inorganic products that do not decompose. This is rubber plastic bags, plastic, metal, synthetic products;
• feces of pets, as they may contain helminth eggs;
• bones;
• tops of tomatoes and potatoes, as they are often infected with late blight;
• chemically treated plants;
• ripened weed seeds;
• thick branches that take a long time to rot.

Possible manufacturing options

A do-it-yourself compost heap can be made in several versions. Let's list them all, indicating the features of each of them.

An ordinary pile in which waste is stored

• Select a place on the site where the compost pile will be located;
• As various wastes accumulate, they are placed in the selected location. In this case, it is advisable to lay organic matter in layers. Alternate food waste with grass and manure;
• When the height of the pile reaches 1 meter, make several depressions in it, into which pour a special compost liquid. This will speed up the ripening of the compost;
• With regular loosening and watering, the compost will mature within 3 months.

This perfect option for those who want to get by with minimal effort, but receive some amount of compost. It is advisable to form several such heaps, each of which will rot gradually.

Simple pit

A simple do-it-yourself compost pit at your dacha will be provided by an ordinary pit dug in the chosen location:

• The depth of the pit should be shallow, which will ensure easier care of its contents. It's better to make it wider;
• Branches, hay, and tree bark are placed at the bottom of the pit;
• Next come layers of food and vegetable waste;
• Since the temperature in the pit is not very high, it is advisable to cover it with film.

This is the least successful way to set up a compost bin. Mixing its contents will require more effort, and the pit will warm up less. The advantages of such a pit are its small area and simplicity of design.

Box made of wood or other material

How to make a compost pit with your own hands so that it is convenient and inexpensive? Use boards, bars, slate, sheets of metal, etc. for this.

The order of arrangement will be as follows:

• The top layer of soil about 40 cm thick is removed from the soil;
• Pegs are driven in around the perimeter of the pit;
• A fence is installed around the pit. It can be wooden (boards, pallets, panels, bars) or any other. It is allowed to use any material: flat or corrugated slate, polycarbonate, metal sheets;
• The height of the fence should not exceed 1 m. This is necessary for the convenience of mixing the compost;
• The top of such a structure is covered with plywood or film.

This design allows the compost to warm up well, so it is considered optimal for use on land.

Exists original version wooden box. Its lower edges do not reach the soil surface by 25-30 cm. That is, boards or other material are attached at a certain distance from the ground. In the lower part of such a box, the compost matures faster, since it was laid earlier. As the compost matures, it is removed and the pile settles downwards. Such a pile practically does not need to be loosened. There is always the opportunity to get some ready-made compost.

Concreted pit

If you decide to build durable design, which will serve for decades, then take advantage of the advice on how to make a compost heap in a concrete pit.

The structure is set up like this:

• the site for future construction is marked out (approximately 2x3 meters);
• soil is selected at 60-80 cm;
• formwork about 10 cm thick is constructed around the perimeter of the future building;
• concrete solution is mixed;
• concrete is poured into the formwork;
• after the concrete hardens, the formwork is removed;
• V concrete pit waste is laid in layers;
• From above, the pit is covered with wooden shields or covered with film.

This is the most expensive method of constructing a compost pit in terms of effort and investment. Such a structure should be placed where the pile will definitely not create any difficulties, since it will be impossible to move it to another place.

Tip: It is recommended to divide the compost facility into at least 2 sections. While you put fresh waste collected in the current season into one of them, last year’s compost will decompose in the second section.

It should also be noted that there are options for organizing a compost pit from a barrel or special plastic containers for compost, but you will additionally need to use drugs that accelerate waste processing, or add Californian worms.

How to properly operate a compost bin

We found out how to build a compost pit with our own hands using various schemes. It remains to illuminate the question of how to properly care for compost pit during the season. It is enough to perform the following simple manipulations:

1. Periodically loosen the compost with a fork. In this case, oxygen will be provided inside the heap. In addition, the waste will mix with each other, which will speed up its decomposition.
2. Water the pile at least occasionally, and more often during the dry season. Thus, the contents of the pit will be moistened and rot better. Overdried compost almost completely stops decomposing.
3. It is recommended to cover the top of the compost with a dark film. This will create a greenhouse effect inside the heap, raising its temperature. The film will retain moisture inside and prevent weeds from germinating. In a covered heap, compost will mature in 3-4 months. If you do not cover it, the ripening process will last for a whole year.
4. Periodically add California worms to the pile, which loosen the contents of the pile and partially process it.
5. If possible, add drugs to the contents of the compost heap to speed up the decomposition process. For example, Compostin, Baikal EM-1, Embionic, Compostar, Sanex EcoCompost, Bioforce Compost and others.

A properly constructed compost pit, which is regularly maintained, can provide site owners with high-quality and practically free fertilizer in a very short time.

How else can you make a compost pit with your own hands? Photos will clearly demonstrate the options for making it.