Indoor chrysanthemum how to care for it. Indoor chrysanthemum in a pot: care at home. Selection of chrysanthemums in a pot

Indoor chrysanthemum how to care for it.  Indoor chrysanthemum in a pot: care at home.  Selection of chrysanthemums in a pot
Indoor chrysanthemum how to care for it. Indoor chrysanthemum in a pot: care at home. Selection of chrysanthemums in a pot

(popularly called oaks) are usually grown in open ground, but some types of flowers are also suitable for indoor conditions - in a pot. Potted chrysanthemum differs from garden chrysanthemum in its small height (from 20 to 40 cm).

For growing in a flower pot, you can choose low-growing varieties of some types of chrysanthemums:

Photo: Globular low-growing chrysanthemum (oak) multiflora

Sometimes gardeners cultivate the Zembla chrysanthemum at home, although it is more in demand as a garden chrysanthemum.

Photo: White Zembla chrysanthemum in a pot

Rules for caring for chrysanthemums at home

First of all, you need to choose a pot and soil. For growing chrysanthemums from seeds, universal soil intended for indoor plants is perfect. You can also make your own soil.

  • deciduous and turf soil - 1 and 2 parts, respectively;
  • 1 part humus and coarse sand each.

Disinfection can be carried out using a solution of potassium permanganate.

When it comes to choosing a pot for indoor chrysanthemums, you should give preference to a container made of ceramic, plastic or clay. Each subsequent flower container should be slightly larger than the previous one, the substrate is completely renewed. The pot must have a drainage hole.

Also, in caring for indoor chrysanthemums, proper lighting is of great importance. The ideal location is considered to be windows located in the east or west. You should not place a potted plant on a south-facing window, as flowering may stop due to direct sunlight. On flowers located on the northern windowsill, the buds will not open at all. The plant can also be grown on a well-ventilated and lit balcony.

Cuttings of home chrysanthemum:

Watering and fertilizing

Plants need plenty of moisture, but they should not be overwatered. The ideal watering regime would be daily moistening twice a day with a small amount of liquid (in this case, the leaves should be dry the next day) or weekly heavy watering three times a day. You cannot periodically add water to the tray on which the flower pot is placed - this can cause rotting of the roots. Watering should be done only after the surface of the substrate has dried.

Potted chrysanthemum needs high humidity. Therefore, it is good to spray it daily with settled water (preferably at room temperature). It is also recommended to use rainwater, which is considered “softer”.

Proper care is impossible without applying suitable fertilizers. In order for the plant to fully grow and bloom profusely, it must be regularly fed with nutrients, which the flower quickly takes from the soil. For this purpose, organic (humus) and mineral fertilizers are used.

A deficiency of phosphorus and potassium can lead to delayed flowering. In addition, you need to fertilize the soil with nitrogen, which is no less necessary - it takes an active part in the formation of the flower. Nitrogen affects the height of the stems, the color of the leaves and inflorescences, as well as their size.

Indoor chrysanthemums are fed from March to August. In winter, nutrient compounds should not be added to the soil. In late autumn you can feed to stimulate late flowering. During the growing season, an adult flower especially needs the consumption of fertilizers, for which it is recommended to fertilize every ten days with organic fertilizers in liquid form.

If the soil of the flower is rather poor, it must be fertilized with a solution of mullein (1:10) every 4 days. These actions should be performed during the flowering period. When applying fertilizer, it is better to take the flower pot out onto the veranda or balcony (for a day or two in a dark place) in order to prevent the spread of an unpleasant odor throughout the apartment.

You need to add nutrients carefully: only at the root, without touching the leaves, otherwise the plant may get burned.

Video from the “Garden World” series:

How to care in winter?

In late autumn, chrysanthemum care includes preparation for winter. In winter, the flower fully rests and gains strength.

A flower can overwinter:

  1. In the room. The plant can be left for wintering in the house. To do this, you need to trim it minimally and remove the dried parts. The flower should be moistened in the same way as during the growing season.
  2. In a cool, well-lit place (on an insulated balcony or veranda). To do this, faded potted chrysanthemums in late autumn need to be cut to 12 - 15 cm. The ideal temperature for wintering is 3 - 8 degrees above zero. Water the flower only after the soil has completely dried (usually no more than once a month).
  3. In the basement. To do this, it is necessary to cut off all dry and rotten parts. The height of the bush should be no more than 15 cm. It is recommended to moisten the soil 2 days before the start of wintering.

Beginning of the growing season

The growing season for potted chrysanthemums begins in the spring (March).

The following steps are carried out as preparation:

  1. First, you need to transplant the plant into a completely renewed substrate, which must be nutritious and moisture-permeable. To make soil, it is recommended to mix part of the humus or chicken droppings, 4 parts of turf and garden soil and 1 part of coarse sand. A young plant needs to be replanted annually into a new container larger than the previous one, and an adult plant – once every 2 years.
  2. Then the pot with the plant is placed in a well-lit place (on a windowsill or balcony).
  3. It is necessary to regularly moisten the soil and apply fertilizers. Feed the plant a couple of weeks after transplantation. If humus is added to the substrate, the transplanted flower can be fertilized only after 30 days. Fertilizers must contain a large amount of nitrogen, since the flower needs it to form a bush. In mid-summer, for the formation of buds, fertilizers with a predominance of potassium and phosphorus will be needed.
  4. Then you should start shaping. To do this, pinching of growing shoots is carried out. Between March and August, three pincers are sufficient.

Planting and caring for home chrysanthemum:

Flowering problems

There are several reasons for the lack of flowering in potted chrysanthemums:

  1. Wrong choice of variety. Some varieties are designed to bloom only in open ground. When purchasing a potted chrysanthemum, it is better to check with the seller about the correct choice.
  2. Insufficient lighting. Good lighting is very important for the full opening of the bud. Can be used .
  3. Presence of diseases and flower pests. The main pest of indoor chrysanthemums is. Manifested by the formation of a white coating on the surface of the leaves, it occurs due to excessive moisture. A fungicide is used as treatment, and it is recommended to limit watering. Another serious disease that can harm flowering is gray rot. It can be eliminated using foundation and direct ultraviolet light. Chrysanthemums can also be affected by spider mites. To eliminate them, you need to rinse each leaf with warm water, and remove damaged leaves.
  4. No pinching. All indoor plants must be pinched and trimmed, otherwise they will not be able to bloom. Pinching is carried out from the first year of planting. If the flower begins to fade, it is recommended to remove the buds to prevent wasting its strength.
  5. Lack of nutritional compounds. Both a shortage and an excess of nutrients are harmful to chrysanthemum flowering. Fertilizers must contain nitrogen and phosphorus.
  6. Heat. For normal flowering of the plant, a room with an air temperature of no more than 20 degrees is necessary. The faded plant is cut off and placed in a cool place.

Indoor chrysanthemums in the photo:

Today, flower shops sell a variety of flowering plants, among which are many favorite indoor chrysanthemums. However, there is often a situation when a purchased flower at home fades after a while and does not want to bloom anymore. To prevent this from happening, you need to know how to care for a homemade chrysanthemum in a pot, when and how to replant and trim it.

Before you buy a flower in a store, you should carefully examine it. The bush should look healthy and strong, with green leaves without any spots. It is best to choose a chrysanthemum with buds so that it can bloom for a long time at home. You should carefully examine the leaves, which should be free of any pests.

A new plant needs to adapt to new conditions, so the bush is placed in a well-lit place, but where there is no direct sunlight. Water the flower as needed.

Attention! If the buds of a recently purchased chrysanthemum begin to fall off or dry out, the flower gets used to the new conditions.

After about two weeks, when the plant adapts, it will need to be transplanted into new soil, since flowers are sold in peat in stores. If there are flowers on the bush, replanting can be postponed until after flowering.

How to replant a chrysanthemum

A recently purchased flower should be replanted no earlier than two weeks later, and in the future young plants are replanted every year, and adult bushes approximately once every three years.

To the question of when to replant a chrysanthemum, you can answer that it is best in the spring. However, if the bush has grown over the summer, it can be replanted in the fall after flowering.

To transplant a chrysanthemum you will need:

  • the new pot is 2-3 cm larger than the previous one in length and diameter;
  • neutral soil (acidic soil will not work);
  • drainage.

The soil mixture can be purchased at the store or mixed from the following components:

  • garden soil - 4 parts;
  • sand – 1 part;
  • humus – 1 part;
  • turf soil - 4 parts.

Attention! Before planting a flower, the soil should be disinfected, for which it can be spilled with a solution of potassium permanganate or boiling water. When the soil dries, it is used for replanting.

First, a layer of drainage is poured onto the bottom of the new pot, then a small layer of the nutrient mixture. In order for the plants to better tolerate the transplant and not get stressed, it is recommended to transfer them from pot to pot:

  • water the day before transplanting;
  • remove from the container along with a lump of earth;
  • place in a new pot on a layer of soil;
  • Sprinkle soil around and on top of the roots.

The transplanted flower is well watered and put in the shade for several days. Even flowering chrysanthemums can be replanted using the transshipment method.

Experienced flower growers advise adding just a little bird droppings to the soil when replanting indoor chrysanthemums in the spring. In this case, many flowers will form on the bush in summer, and flowering will be abundant.

Caring for chrysanthemums at home

Caring for a chrysanthemum in a pot will not take much time. However, in order for an indoor flower to delight you with its flowering, you must follow some rules.

Air temperature and humidity

The optimal temperature for growing chrysanthemums in pots is within +20 degrees.

In order for chrysanthemums to bloom next season, in winter they are kept at a temperature of about +3...+7 degrees. These flowers need a period of rest, during which new buds will be formed.

Therefore, if there is a question – why doesn’t chrysanthemum bloom?, remember if your flowers had a dormant period in winter. At room temperature in winter, all the plant’s energy will be spent on growth, and almost no buds will form.

Almost any air humidity is suitable for chrysanthemums, however, in winter, when the batteries are running, the leaves of the plants can dry out. In this case, it is recommended to spray the foliage with water at room temperature.

Watering chrysanthemums

When caring for a chrysanthemum in a pot during the period of active growth, you must ensure that the earthen ball does not dry out. Water the flowers about 2 times a week with settled water, then pour out excess water from the trays. If the apartment is cool, one watering per week may be enough for the plants. The soil in the pot should not be very damp all the time.

Lighting

Like all flowering plants, chrysanthemums love good lighting, and if there is not enough light, they will bloom poorly. However, it is not advisable to place them on a southern windowsill with direct sunlight. Chrysanthemums will bloom best near windows facing east or west.

Feeding chrysanthemums


Plants that have just been transplanted into the nutrient mixture do not need fertilizing for a month. Mature chrysanthemums, in which the soil has been renewed for a long time, after a period of dormancy and before budding begin, are fed:

  1. Once every 5 days with organic matter in the form of a solution of mullein, half a liter of which is diluted in 5 liters of water.
  2. Once every 10 days, chrysanthemums need mineral complex fertilizers to bloom. They should contain potassium, phosphorus and as little nitrogen as possible. If nitrogen predominates, foliage will begin to grow well on the bushes, but there will be almost no flowering.
  3. You can speed up flowering using the potassium monophosphate fertilizer, one part of which is diluted in 10 parts of water.

Bush formation

Many gardeners ask why the chrysanthemum stretched out. Perhaps the flower does not have enough lighting or the chrysanthemum bush has not formed.

In order for the bush to be lush and beautiful, during the period of active growth, yellowed or wilted leaves and flowers should be plucked from it. It is also necessary to trim and pinch the shoots, as a result of which the plant will grow wider and not stretch out.

Caring for chrysanthemums after flowering

As we wrote above, chrysanthemum needs a period of rest. To do this, in winter it is kept directly in a pot in a cool room. You can place a flower pot on an insulated loggia, where the air temperature in winter will be within +2 degrees.

Before removing the bush for the winter, the shoots are pruned. In the spring, as soon as new shoots begin to appear on the plants, they are brought into the apartment, replanted and placed in the same place where the chrysanthemum grew last year.

Attention! In the summer, indoor chrysanthemums can be planted in a flower garden at the dacha. In the fall, before frost sets in, the flowers are dug up, planted again in pots and brought into the house. However, in open ground, flowers are often affected by pests and diseases, so before bringing them into your apartment, inspect and, if necessary, treat the bushes with special preparations.

Chrysanthemum propagation

The easiest way to propagate plants is when replanting, simply by dividing the bush and planting the divisions in new pots. If the roots are damaged during division, they are sprinkled with crushed coal before planting.

Propagation of chrysanthemum by cuttings

For rooting, take still green cuttings about 10 cm long. They can be rooted in water or directly in the soil. The lower leaves must be torn off from the cuttings and placed in a container of water or moist soil.

If the chrysanthemum cuttings take root in water, it is planted in a pot when roots 4 cm long form on it.

If the cutting will take root immediately in the soil, cover it on top with a transparent cap (glass jar or bag). Every day the cover is removed to ventilate the shoot and check the soil moisture. The fact that the cutting has taken root can be determined by the restored turgor of the leaves. After this, the bag or jar can be removed.

To stimulate shoot growth, pinch the tops of cuttings growing in a pot.

As you can see, caring for indoor chrysanthemums at home is quite simple. The main thing is to follow all the rules, and the plant will delight you with its beautiful flowering.

The autumn season is the season of chrysanthemums. These flowers with a bitter aroma and beautiful flowers can create a great mood for each of us. Thanks to this, in the autumn, chrysanthemums move from store shelves to gardeners' plots and to the windows of our living quarters. Those who are given chrysanthemums in a pot often think that the plant will not live long, and when winter comes, the flowers will wither and will have to be thrown away. In fact, chrysanthemum can exist at home for more than one year! It is necessary to understand that when the cold weather comes, the flower will not disappear, but will only fall asleep. Create the necessary environment for the plant, and it can easily survive the winter.

What chrysanthemums can be grown at home?

The “behavior” of chrysanthemums is often unpredictable. However, you can easily grow them in your room. For this purpose, use such types of chrysanthemums as:

  • Indian;
  • garden (Chinese);
  • Korean;
  • grandiflora.

All these plants are called garden chrysanthemums. Each has distinctive features, but they require almost the same care.

Chrysanthemums that are grown at home are also called “Chrysanthemum mix”. You may also hear the name “Oaks”. Since you need to care for all chrysanthemums indoors in almost the same way, you don’t have to go into too much detail about how their different types differ from each other.

Most often, small-sized varieties of chrysanthemums are preferred for home use.

What to look for when buying potted chrysanthemums?

When choosing a chrysanthemum, pay attention that the plant has woody lower parts of the stems. Limp, grayish or yellow leaves indicate that the chrysanthemum is weak and will not be able to survive the winter even in comfortable conditions.

It happens that the leaves look healthy, but if you carefully examine the underside of the leaf, you can see a thin web. This means that the plant has been attacked by a spider mite.

It is better to ensure that the chrysanthemum you purchase has as few flowers as possible that have already opened. It is ideal if only the details of the opening petals are visible from a practically clogged bud.

Autumn cold is not terrible for potted plants, but during the first frost they can suffer greatly. Do not purchase frozen chrysanthemums at low prices. Their flowers may look quite healthy, but the edges of the leaves “sag”, their leaves become dark in color, and after a few days they can dry out completely.

Sellers will claim that cold conditions are beneficial for chrysanthemums. Remember that frozen plants will not be able to survive the winter period; you can purchase them exclusively as a bouquet for one time.

When choosing a chrysanthemum in a pot, you need to give preference to plants with woody lower parts of the stems.

Do I need to replant a potted chrysanthemum after purchase?

The purchased plants must have a small supply of fertilizers that last for a long time. This supply lasts until the summer season. However, the pot is small, so replace it with a larger container and add new soil. You can add garden soil with river sand and wood ash.

Read also:

Planting chrysanthemums in the garden

Using ready-made peat, slightly acidic or neutral soil is also possible; add perlite.

When you take the purchased plant out of the container, it may turn out that there is not one chrysanthemum, but several. They bloom in “bouquets” in a container for a longer time than just picked flowers. If they are not separated, chrysanthemums will not be able to survive as perennial plants. Dense plantings are not for them, even on the site (it’s not worth talking about any containers). In such cases, remove excess chrysanthemums, leave one, or separate them and plant them in different containers.

Do not rush to replant flowers if you purchased chrysanthemums that do not have open flowers at all. At the stage of bud formation, chrysanthemum is especially vulnerable. Wait until the first flowers open and replant the plant.

How to care for chrysanthemums during flowering?

Give the chrysanthemum maximum attention so that it lives at home for more than one year. Remember that this is a garden plant, the life of which began in a greenhouse with special temperature and light conditions.

These flowers are grown using retardants, which slow down the growth of stems, speed up the flowering process and change the physiology of the chrysanthemum.

Remember this and do not brew teas from chrysanthemum petals that are purchased in stores and garden centers.

If you grow a chrysanthemum yourself from a seed, cutting or young shoot, it will be much easier for the plant to get used to living at home. The smell of such flowers is much more pleasant and stronger than those bought in a store.

When a chrysanthemum is taken out of a purchased pot, it is sometimes discovered that it is not one plant, but three or four.© Elena Vetrova

Choosing a place for potted chrysanthemums in the house

The first thing when this flower appears at home is to choose a place for the plant that will be sufficiently well lit. Lighting with direct morning and evening rays of the sun, as well as bright diffused light, is most suitable.

The very first daylight rays of the sun can have a detrimental effect on the plant, so protect chrysanthemums from them (you can temporarily move the plant away from windows). Otherwise, under the influence of the hot rays of the sun, the buds will open and wither before they have time to fully bloom.

Temperature

Keep your flowering plant cool. The most suitable temperature for chrysanthemums is around 18 o C, but not more than 20 o C. Ventilate the room more often.

Watering

The soil should not be too dry; chrysanthemums have branched surface roots. Water the plant in the morning. If there is not enough watering, the stems will become woody, smaller, and the leaves will fade. But keep in mind that chrysanthemum does not like stagnant moisture.

Removing Fading Flowers

Remove flowers that have bloomed in a timely manner; do not wait for them to dry out. If there are too many buds on a flower, remove small buds so that the chrysanthemum does not weaken.

Mulching

Mulch the soil. You can use dried crushed peppermint and wormwood. This way you will protect the plant from pests.

Read also:

Chrysanthemums - growing features

Feeding

Feed the plant once a week. Use a complex universal fertilizer, as well as special fertilizers for flowering indoor plants.

For indoor chrysanthemums, you need to choose the sunniest window sill in the house. The illustration for the article is used under the standard license ©ofazende.ru

When to send a chrysanthemum to sleep

The remaining flowers have faded, the bush becomes dull, the leaves become a little lethargic. When there are no buds left on the plant, it’s time to “put” the chrysanthemum to sleep.

In the modern world, the calendar dates have changed, which let you know when chrysanthemums bloom. In October you can buy blooming chrysanthemums with large flowers, but they are late bloomers. The upper buds of such chrysanthemums will open in November, and flowering will end in December-January. However, when such a chrysanthemum is “helped” to bloom early, the dormant stage may well begin in November.

Korean chrysanthemums bloom for quite a long time in open soil, in accordance with the period that corresponds to this variety. Chrysanthemums “Malchish-Kibalchish” bloom very early. Their flowers begin to open in July. August marks the peak of flowering of chrysanthemums such as “First Snow”. Chrysanthemums “Altgold” and “Snow White” bloom later than everyone else (until the frost).

If plants are grown at home, the timing of when they bloom will shift. If you organize the right conditions for keeping potted chrysanthemums in your home, they can bloom for up to 2 months. November-December is a time of rest.

Wintering indoor potted chrysanthemums

When the chrysanthemums have bloomed, cut the stems (at a height of 5 cm from the ground) and remove weak and unnecessary branches. The most suitable place for “wintering” is a balcony (loggia) with a temperature range of three to five degrees Celsius.

Moisten the soil a little (once every 2-3 weeks). It is allowed to leave containers with plants in the basement, which does not freeze (the root shoots must be removed). To prevent rot from appearing, ensure good ventilation in the basement. Moisten the top layer of soil once every 3 weeks.

Before putting the plant in the basement or placing it in a cool place, partially remove the top layer of soil and add sand, peat and wood ash to the container. You can sprinkle powder from dried mint leaves on top of this mixture.

Potted chrysanthemums begin to grow in March. Therefore, it’s time to transplant the plant into a container larger than the previous one and move it to a cold place (15 degrees Celsius), which is well lit and constantly ventilated.

Root shoots (thin pinkish “sprouts” with small scales) can also appear in a cold, darkened room. Don't break it off. Remove the plant, moisten the soil and place it in a cool, bright room. “Sprouts” that are deprived of chlorophyll will be able to gradually turn into ordinary root shoots.

The fewer open flowers on a chrysanthemum that goes to live indoors, the better. © Elena Vetrova

Diseases and pests of indoor chrysanthemums

Chrysanthemums are resilient, unpretentious plants. However, in indoor conditions they may suffer from aridity or excess moisture in the soil, lack of light, excessive fertilizer and excessive density. Therefore, these plants can suffer from pests and diseases. If the plant is affected by a pest or becomes sick, it will not be able to successfully overwinter. Remember the basic preventive measures to combat diseases.

You may need a garlic infusion or a solution made from mustard or soap. Mulching can increase the resistance of plants to diseases.

Gray rot

The causative agent of the disease is the botrytis fungus. Gray-brown spots appear on the chrysanthemum, which spread instantly. A white-gray coating will appear in the center of the spot, becoming fluffy.

Beautiful chrysanthemum flowers delight us in autumn. These extraordinary plants amaze with their abundant flowering and beautiful shades of petals.

Indoor chrysanthemum differs from flowerbeds in that it is a compact, low bush., the height of this plant does not exceed 40 centimeters. Several varieties and hybrids of this flower can be grown indoors.

Potted chrysanthemum is adapted to development in a city apartment; the culture tolerates light deficits and other stress factors well.

Chrysanthemum home description

This crop is intended for growing in greenhouses or on a windowsill in a house.

The plant has a low branched bush, but some varieties can form a high above-ground part.

Advice! When purchasing, pay attention to the appearance of the flower. The domestic chrysanthemum should have a dense bush, well-developed leaves, and strong shoots. Carefully inspect the crop for pests. Flowers that meet these conditions take root faster and do not infect the plants present in the room.

Chrysanthemum in a pot is grown as an annual or perennial crop; it has a well-branched root part, which is formed parallel to the soil surface.

The leaves are light green in color with jagged, dissected blades. inflorescence-basket, consists of many small flowers.

Chrysanthemum varieties for growing in pots

Common chrysanthemums that grow in flower beds are large, cold-loving plants. There are other varieties that are suitable for growing indoors:

    1. Chrysanthemum indica has a long flowering period, it is a low bush with jagged gray-green leaves. The inflorescence is basket-shaped and resembles a chamomile. The color of the flowers of this crop is white or pink, the height of the plant is up to 25 centimeters.

  1. compact shape with branched stems, bush up to 25 centimeters in height. The leaves are green with dotted glands on the surface. The length of the vegetative organ does not exceed 7 centimeters, the width is up to 5 cm. The inflorescences are semi-double or simple of various colors and shapes.


Chrysanthemum in a pot: care at home

Not every housewife knows how to care for chrysanthemums in a city home. Let's look at the main nuances of this process.

Lighting, temperature

For normal growth, it is necessary to create an optimal temperature regime for the culture.

Note! The flower may be damaged by hot air currents and direct sunlight on the foliage. The ideal conditions are short daylight hours and low room temperatures.

Favorable temperature conditions for indoor chrysanthemums are within +15…+18 degrees. If the indicators are exceeded, the plant withers; few people know what to do.

First of all, you need to learn how to care for a flower, provide it with enough heat and moisture.

Healthy crops growing in a favorable environment are shown in the photo:

Watering and fertilizing

When watering crops, it is necessary to ensure that so that the soil in the pot is always moist. Irrigation should be frequent, but stagnation of water is not allowed. Overwatering leads to rotting of the roots and the appearance of fungal infections. When watering chrysanthemums, gardeners should adhere to the following recommendations:

  • drying out of the soil is not allowed;
  • watering in winter and autumn is carried out once every 7-8 days, it is better to do this in the morning;
  • In summer and spring, crops are watered in the evening once every 3 days;
  • rain or settled tap water is used for humidification;
  • During watering, drops of moisture are not allowed to fall on the petals of the plant.

Abundantly flowering crops require additional nutrients. It is recommended to enrich the soil with complex fertilizers in liquid form every 7-8 days.

Actively developing flower shoots need good nutrition. Phosphorus and potassium should be present in liquid fertilizers in large quantities. It is recommended to feed the chrysanthemum 10-12 hours after watering.

Pruning and shaping the bush

A recently purchased crop retains its crown shape for a long time, but the elongated shoots that appear reduce the decorative value of the plant. When forming a chrysanthemum, you need to pinch off actively growing stems.

For small-flowered crops, two or three such procedures will be needed. Bushes of large-flowered chrysanthemums are pruned into the shape of a tree. To do this, you need to trim the central stem and remove the lower shoots.

Advice! Constantly pinching fading inflorescences stimulates the appearance of new buds.

Transplanting a plant

All colors, regardless of age constant renewal of the nutrient substrate is necessary.

Not everyone knows how to transplant a chrysanthemum from pot to pot.

Such operations are carried out no more than once a year in the spring.

The culture is transplanted by transferring it into a wide container. You can buy soil in a specialized store or prepare it yourself from humus, garden soil and peat. These components are thoroughly mixed in equal proportions.

Important! Chrysanthemums prefer loose, moisture-absorbing, nutritious soil.

After transferring to a new pot, the plants are covered with polyethylene or a cut from a plastic bottle. At first, before rooting, the crops are kept in a room with diffused lighting. In addition, you need to periodically ventilate the plant and monitor the humidity of the earthen clod.

The chrysanthemum has faded, what should I do?

First of all, you need to remove damaged and underdeveloped shoots from the plant. Many flower growers cut off the stems completely, leaving low branches above the surface. After this, watering is carried out, then the crop is transferred to a cool and dry room and stored there until spring.

There is another option for caring for chrysanthemums after dropping the inflorescences - this is proper pruning of the plant. A strong culture will produce new shoots in the same season and form inflorescences.

Tips on how to care for home chrysanthemum in this video:

Propagation of chrysanthemums at home

Growing from seeds does not allow preserving the varietal characteristics of the flower, therefore many gardeners propagate the crop using root suckers. To do this, you need to carefully separate the cuttings from the mother bush and plant them in small containers. Next, the plants are watered and covered with plastic cups, waiting for rooting.

The process of rooting cuttings can be divided into stages:

  • cutting young shoots from the mother bush;
  • filling a transparent container or other container with washed river sand;
  • planting cuttings;
  • shelter arrangement;
  • transplanting seedlings into a pot.

When caring for plants, periodic watering of the nutrient substrate and ventilation are necessary.

Main problems when growing

During the growing season of plants in apartment conditions, gardeners are faced with various problems; let’s consider the main ones.

Why do the leaves turn yellow?

If replanting after purchase was not accompanied by proper care of the crop, yellowing of the leaves of the flower can be observed.

This unpleasant phenomenon is associated with lack of lighting, lack of moisture in the nutrient substrate or hot air in the room.

Sometimes the cause of leaf discoloration can be a fungal infection.

To prevent drying out, you need to take into account all these nuances.

Why doesn't chrysanthemum bloom?

The lack of flowering on a crop in most cases occurs due to a deficiency or excess of natural light.

It should be taken into account that chrysanthemum is considered a short-day crop. When lighting devices are turned on in the morning and evening, the biorhythms of the flower are disrupted. Another reason why chrysanthemum does not bloom is excessive feeding.

Diseases and pests of indoor chrysanthemum

Fungal diseases of chrysanthemums

Such diseases occur due to insufficient air circulation in the room, as well as high acidity of the soil, elevated temperature and excess nutrients with a high proportion of nitrogen.

Chrysanthemum leaf spot or septoria blight

The main symptom of the disease is the appearance of spots on the leaves. The defective areas turn yellow and then turn black. The main preventive measure is pruning the affected vegetative parts of the plant. The crop can be cured using fungicides.

Rust

The first signs of infection are determined by the appearance of orange powdery spots on the outer surface of the leaves of the crop. When severely damaged, the chrysanthemum quickly weakens and does not form buds.

Preventive measures include removing affected leaves and thinning the bush to improve ventilation. When watering, avoid getting droplets of moisture on the leaves and shoots of the flower. To treat rust, fungicides are used, for example, a 1% concentration of colloidal sulfur solution.

Wilting chrysanthemum leaves

Fusarium disease is accompanied by browning and wilting of leaf blades. Diseased plants are stunted and flowering stops.
The fungus blocks the channels that supply nutrients and water to the aboveground part of the crop.

Prevention of fusarium disease involves pruning all affected parts of the chrysanthemum. The use of resistant varieties or increasing the acidity of the nutrient substrate to 6.5 pH will help prevent the development of the disease.

Powdery mildew

The first symptom of this disease is the appearance of an ash-gray powdery coating on the surface of the leaves. Infectious spores actively multiply in a humid environment. To prevent the development of infection, plants are sprayed with fungicides, for example, Fundazol or Bordeaux mixture.

Viral diseases of chrysanthemums

The most dangerous viral infection for chrysanthemums is mosaic. Symptoms of this disease can be identified by yellow, drooping leaves. Diseased crops are stunted and form small inflorescences. To prevent further development of the mosaic, it is necessary to treat the above-ground part of the crop with fungicides.

This video explains how and why chrysanthemums need to be treated almost immediately after purchase:

Pests of chrysanthemums

Leaf nematode

Aphids and spider mites

Chrysanthemum storage in winter

As we have already said, the crown of a flower can be trimmed and grown throughout the winter, but some gardeners send the crop to a “resting state” to obtain abundant flowering. In practice, several methods of storing chrysanthemums are used.

Chrysanthemum on verandas and insulated loggias

With the arrival of winter, it is necessary to reduce watering of the crop (once every 4 weeks). After dropping the last inflorescences, the shoots are cut to 15 centimeters, then the plant is insulated and stored on the balcony at a temperature of about 5 degrees.

With the arrival of spring, when new shoots appear on the chrysanthemum, the flower is returned to normal conditions.

Chrysanthemum care and storage at home

If the apartment does not have a balcony or basement, then the crop can be left to winter on the windowsill. In this case, the grower must remove drying leaves and buds, while the watering regime remains the same.

Placing chrysanthemums in the basement for the winter

A dry cellar is considered the ideal place to store flowers. Before storing in storage, the plant is pruned, leaving shoots up to 15 centimeters in height; dried shoots and leaves are removed. The soil in pots should be moist, not soggy.

As soon as autumn arrives, flower shops display pots of bright chrysanthemum balls for everyone to see. Sometimes they are bought as a disposable bouquet and thrown away after flowering. But this is not the only option. Chrysanthemum in a pot can be successfully grown on a windowsill for many years. Or, with the onset of spring, transplant it into OG (open ground).

Low-growing varieties of Chinese or mulberry chrysanthemum (Chrysanthemum x morifolium) are suitable for growing indoors and on balconies. These are abundantly flowering bushes, reaching a height of 15-70 cm. They can be large-flowered (flower diameter 2.5-5 cm) or small-flowered (flower diameter up to 2.5 cm). The flowering forms of Chinese chrysanthemums can also be different. In home culture, varieties of the “Charm” form (“Red Charm”, “Yellow Charm”, etc.) are popular, blooming with a huge head of basket-inflorescences of different colors. Low “Minimum” are also good - dwarf bush chrysanthemums, barely growing to 15-20 cm in height. But the so-called “Cascade” ampel forms (“White Cascade”, “Pink Cascade”, etc.) are of particular interest to collectors.

In addition to mulberry chrysanthemum, low-growing varieties of Korean chrysanthemum (Chrysanthemum x koreanum) are cultivated in greenhouses. Korean bushes are distinguished by their spherical shape, which in the fall turns into bright flowering pillows. Popular varieties are “Orange Jam”, “Navare”, “Stella”, etc. For their resemblance to flowering balls, specimens from the multiflora series are called spherical chrysanthemums.


Korean chrysanthemums bloom profusely in pots and in open ground

Indian chrysanthemums (Chrysanthemum x indicum L.) in pots are available for sale. These plants in our latitudes were originally intended for growing indoors. Their habitats: room window sills, glazed balconies, greenhouses, winter gardens. Varieties: “Altgold”, “Snow Elf”, “Aurora”, “Ellen”, etc.


Indian chrysanthemums are sissies; they can only grow indoors: in pots on the windowsill, in winter gardens, greenhouses

However, when you buy a bush chrysanthemum in a pot, you do not need to know its type and variety. Home care for any potted chrysanthemum is the same.

How to care for chrysanthemums at home?

Lighting, temperature

Ideally, domestic chrysanthemums should be kept on windows facing west or east. Southern windows are too hot for them; direct sunlight causes rapid flowering. On northern windows, the buds may not open at all. Alternatively, chrysanthemums at home can be placed on a ventilated, cool balcony with good lighting.


The best place for a home chrysanthemum is an open balcony with a western or eastern orientation.

Chrysanthemum is a plant of short daylight hours. Flowering begins when daylight hours are reduced to 9-10 hours. And this happens in the fall. Then the coolness necessary for the opening of chrysanthemum flowers appears. Similar conditions may occur in early spring, in March-April. If at this time you place your home chrysanthemum on a cool balcony, then spring flowering is possible. Some amateur flower growers provoke the flowering of their chrysanthemums by artificially reducing daylight hours. To do this, after the required 9-10 hours, the plant is covered with an impenetrable cap, for example, made of cardboard.

Optimal temperatures for growing chrysanthemums: in summer – 20-23°, in autumn – 15-18°, in winter – 3-8°. These temperatures are ideal. If they are followed, the chrysanthemum gains a large number of buds and blooms for a long time. However, nothing bad will happen if you deviate from the recommended parameters. A chrysanthemum in a pot will normally survive the hot summer if you place it in a ventilated place, shaded from the midday rays. It will also tolerate short-term frosts down to -3° quite well.

Watering and spraying

Chrysanthemums need good watering, but without excessive moisture. In other words, there is no point in creating a swamp in a pot. It is also impossible to place the pot in a tray and constantly add water there. Water the chrysanthemum only after the top layer of the substrate has dried. Remember that any chrysanthemum, even in a pot, is initially a garden plant. And it needs high air humidity. Therefore, when growing chrysanthemums, caring for it should include regular spraying with water. An alternative is to install jars of water, trays with wet expanded clay, and an air humidifier next to the potted chrysanthemum. When growing chrysanthemums in the fall on an open balcony, where the humidity is already high, additional spraying should be avoided.

How to preserve chrysanthemums in winter?

In winter, the chrysanthemum should rest and gain strength before the new growing season. You can overwinter the plant:

1. In a bright, cool room (on the veranda, insulated balcony, in the entrance)

After flowering, the potted chrysanthemum is cut to 10-15 cm and placed in a cool, bright room for the winter. The optimal temperature is 3-8°C. Water the plant rarely, only after the clod of earth has dried out on 2 phalanges of the finger. Typically, watering is required once a month.

2. At home

If there is no cool room, the chrysanthemum can remain on the windowsill in the house in winter. In this case, the plant is pruned minimally, with the obligatory removal of faded buds, dry branches and leaves. Watering is carried out in the same way as during the growing season.


To overwinter chrysanthemums in a pot, you should choose the lightest and coldest window sill in the house.

3. In the basement

Chrysanthemums can be placed in the basement for the winter. This method is very popular among owners of garden heat-loving chrysanthemums, and therefore is quite suitable for their potted counterparts. To prepare the plant for wintering, all dried branches, flowers, and rotten parts are cut off. The bush is trimmed to a height of 10-15 cm. A couple of days before the start of wintering, the soil in the pot should be watered. By the time the chrysanthemum is placed in the basement, the soil should be slightly damp, but not damp.

4. In the open ground

Some varieties of potted chrysanthemums are able to overwinter in the ground with shelter. Another thing is that it is very difficult to guess whether a particular specimen will overwinter. If you decide to take the risk, with the onset of the first frost, cut the chrysanthemum stems to a height of 10 cm and cover them with dry soil, peat or dry leaves. On top - cover with film or other covering material.

Homemade chrysanthemums: care during the growing season (spring and summer)

Already in March, home chrysanthemums should begin their growing season. Therefore do the following:

1. Transplant the chrysanthemum into new soil

The soil for chrysanthemums should be neutral, water- and moisture-permeable, and nutritious. Very good results are obtained by planting chrysanthemums in a substrate composed according to the following scheme: turf soil + garden soil + sand + humus (rotted manure, chicken droppings) in a ratio of 4: 4: 1: 1. Young chrysanthemums will require transplanting into a new, larger pot every year. Adult plants need to increase their “living space” every 2 years.

2. Place the pot with the plant on a sunny windowsill, balcony, or in the garden (at stable above-zero temperatures)

In spring, homemade chrysanthemum can be planted in open ground. It will grow over the summer and bloom profusely in the fall. In winter, it will have to be dug up, placed again in a pot and sent to winter in a frost-free room.


Homemade chrysanthemum does well outdoors

3. Start regular watering and fertilizing

After transplantation, the first application of fertilizer will be needed no earlier than 2 weeks later. If humus has been added to the substrate, you don’t have to think about fertilizing for a month. In spring and summer, the chrysanthemum will form a bush, so for fertilizing you should select fertilizers with a predominance of nitrogen (N). Only in the middle of summer, for the formation of buds, potassium-phosphorus fertilizers will be required (mineral fertilizers “for flowering ones” are suitable).

4. Begin shaping

When purchased, a homemade chrysanthemum usually looks like a spherical blooming cloud. In order for it to be just as decorative in the future, it will have to be shaped. New growing shoots are pinched several times. In most cases, 2-3 pinchings are sufficient during the spring-summer period. Pinching, firstly, prevents the branches from growing beyond the boundaries of the formed “ball”, and, secondly, it stimulates the growth of new shoots on which flower buds will form.


The formed chrysanthemum bush looks like a blooming ball

Why doesn't chrysanthemum bloom?

Any chrysanthemum should bloom in the fall. This law can only be violated if there are errors in caring for the plant. The most common of them are:

  • Poor illumination (low intensity of light rays, too long or, conversely, short (less than 7 hours) daylight hours).
  • Late pruning (pinching).
  • Poor soil and lack of fertilizing (containing phosphorus and potassium).

Eliminate the errors found and your potted chrysanthemum will definitely thank you with lush and long flowering.