Do-it-yourself indoor arch. Arches made of plasterboard - do-it-yourself replacement of standard rectangular doors with an original design. Stages of installation of arched plasterboard vaults

If you have planned to transform your home, then do not rush to break down walls, mix mortar and bring in bricks. These hard and dirty works can be successfully replaced by the construction of plasterboard structures. Currently, plasterboard or gypsum board is the most popular material for indoor decoration. Thanks to it, you can make antique columns or pilasters, two- and three-tier ceilings, design an opening in the form of an arch, and much more. In this article we will talk about how to make a plasterboard arch with your own hands. The information contained in it will help you understand what the task is and how to implement it.

For many years, drywall has been used to carry out finishing works in the shortest possible time. Its popularity among consumers is explained by a number of positive properties:

High level of noise absorption.

• Thermoneutrality.
• Environmentally friendly.
• No unpleasant odor.
• Ability to maintain optimal humidity conditions.

Note! GCR is based on a gypsum mixture with additives, and with external parties it is covered with high-strength paper.

Before making an arch, you should draw a drawing of it, as well as estimate the materials. It is also important to choose the right type of gypsum board. The material is released under different brands depending on its size and purpose:

1. GKL 12.5 mm thick, 1200 mm wide and 2000 mm long is standard option drywall, which is in greatest demand.
2. GKL with a thickness of 6–8 mm is used for the manufacture of curved structures, for example, arches complex shape.
3. VGKL is an abbreviation moisture-resistant plasterboard, used in rooms with high humidity eg in the bathroom and kitchen.
4. GKLO is a designation for fire-resistant drywall.
5. GKLVO is a moisture-resistant/fire-resistant plasterboard.

Before you begin the process of constructing a gypsum plasterboard arch, decide on its design. This determines how the door arch will ultimately look and the sequence of technical work.

Arches come in the following types:

1. Symmetrical domes are a classic of the genre. They are easy to make, and such designs will fit into absolutely any interior, regardless of the style of its implementation.
2. Asymmetrical with an offset center. This is an economical option. Such arches are universal and will also find their place in any interior concept.
3. Gothic arches are made in the form of spiers that converge in the central parts of the structures at a small plane angle.
4. Multi-level - their construction requires skills in working with gypsum boards.
5. Openwork - their feature is the presence of through holes running along the line of the doorway.

Note! Before deciding on a design, make sure your doorway is at least two meters high. The arched design will lower the opening by some distance and therefore it is important that it is high enough initially.

Initially, take measurements of the width and height of the doorway. As mentioned above, its height should be at least 2 m. The width of the arch will be equal to the width of the opening. Measure it and divide it in half. This figure will help you make a perfect semicircle in the future.

Note! The walls must be strictly vertical. This can be checked using building level. Otherwise, the arch will look ridiculous. If necessary, you can level out unevenness with putty or plaster.

Before you start work, you should collect all the necessary equipment. Materials you will need:

• GKL thickness 6.5 mm and 12 mm.
• Guides U-shaped profiles: for straight elements a rack profile of 60×27 mm, for the contour of an arch - a guide profile of 28×27 mm.
• Short screws for metal and special ones designed for fastening gypsum boards.
• Wood screws and nylon dowels for installing the frame on the walls.
• To strengthen the edge of the arch - arched reinforced corners.

Note! The amount of materials is calculated based on the size of the arch.

A set of tools should be immediately at hand when carrying out work, so prepare in advance:

• metal scissors;
• drill with bat/screwdriver;
• pencil and tape measure;
• sharp knife;
• building level;
• jigsaw;
• hammer drill with drill.

This article will discuss two types of frames and their installation - metal and wood. This will allow you to choose best option designs.

To do wooden frame for a plasterboard arch you should purchase wooden blocks and plywood. Then take measurements of the doorway, subtract the thickness of the plywood and drywall from it. So, you will be able to determine the thickness of the wooden blocks. After this, you will need to draw the arc of the future arch on the plywood.

This is not difficult to do. Mark the middle of the plywood sheet and the height of the arch. Screw a self-tapping screw into the bottom center point of the plywood, tie a rope to it at the height of the arch, and tie a pencil to the end. Draw a line with a pencil. You can then cut out the shape of the arch along this line, using an electric jigsaw in this process.

Next, using self-tapping screws 5 cm long, attach the bars to the plywood, which will act as the frame of the structure. After this, fix the arch in doorway long screws. The frequency of screwing in screws is every 15 cm.

Note! Using the same principle, the other part of the arch frame should be made. After this, the structure needs to be sheathed with gypsum board. In this case, the drywall is secured with self-tapping screws for gypsum boards.

Metal carcass. Step by step

Below is step-by-step instruction manufacturing a frame from guide profiles:

1. After measuring the opening, measure the same width of the drywall. Cut it off. Draw a knife along the marked line 2-3 times, turn the sheet over and break it along the cut, cut off the excess. To make the edge smooth, when applying markings, attach a level/rule/profile to it. You should prepare two identical sheets.
2. Lay the sheet on the floor, make a mark in the center and draw a vertical line. A few centimeters above the bottom edge of the marked line, screw in a self-tapping screw. Now you need to prepare a cord equal to the height of the arch + allowances for the loops. Attach a pencil to one loop and tie the other to a self-tapping screw. This way you can draw the radius of the arch. It is better not to make a sharp bend, otherwise you may have problems installing the arched gypsum board.
3. Cut the drywall to a radius. Then place another blank under the already cut sheet, trace the outline of the radius. Cut it along the curve. This can be done with a jigsaw/hacksaw with a fine tooth.
4. Now you need to cut off the guide profile. To do this, use metal scissors. These profiles will serve as a frame for securing the drywall in the opening.
5. The guides are attached 1.5 cm from the edge of the wall. This is due to the thickness of the gypsum board - 1.2 cm + several millimeters arched corner. When installing the frame, it would be good to use 6 mm nylon dowels and 3.5x41 mm wood screws.
6. Make holes with a 6 mm drill bit every 30–40 cm. The depth of the holes is approximately 5 cm.
7. To speed up the work process of screwing the guides, use a screwdriver/electric screwdriver.
8. Then screw it on installed frame GKL. Use metal screws measuring 3.2x25 mm. The panel is fixed to the guides every 10–15 cm. In this case, the heads of the screws should be slightly recessed into the drywall.
9. The interior arch is already becoming more obvious. Now you should measure the circumference of the arch, and then cut the profile in accordance with the measurements. It is necessary to assemble the internal frame. However, it must first be bent to the shape of an arch.
10. To bend the guide profile, cuts should be made on its edges. The frequency of cuts is every 7 cm. After these steps, the profile will easily take the shape you need.
11. The curved profile must be screwed onto the back side of the drywall edge along the radius of the arch using metal screws. You should end up with two identical guides on the inside of the arch.
12. Measure the distance between the guides. In accordance with these dimensions, cut the jumpers from the rack profile. The quantity is determined by the size of the arch. Jumpers should be fixed every 10–14 cm.
13. After securing the jumpers, measure the width and circumference of the arched bend. In accordance with this measurement, you need to cut a strip from the arched gypsum board.
14. Now you need to shape the strip. To do this, lightly wet it with water. Go over the sheet with a serrated roller and bend the drywall. Do not abuse the flexibility of a wet workpiece, so as not to render it unusable.
15. All that remains is to secure the curved drywall to the arch with metal screws. The distance between the screws is 5–7 cm.

Photo instructions

The steps for making a plasterboard arch are provided in the photo collage:

Using the example of a simple symmetrical domed arch, you became familiar with the technology of its manufacture. But what if you want to show greater originality and create, for example, a structure of complex shape in the hall? To do this, you need to take into account some nuances. After reading the instructions below, you can make an arch of any shape.

• Before you think over the design of the arch, decide on the location of its installation. This will be in the hallway, in the kitchen, etc. Here it is important that the arch does not deprive the house/apartment of functionality, but, on the contrary, contributes to it, gives it good mood. Now we will look decorative design, which is only partly an arch.
• Use a building level/plumb to mark a line on the wall. There will be a wall/arch along it. Along this line, install the profile to the wall and ceiling. Then screw a suitable plasterboard sheet onto the resulting L-shaped frame.
• Draw a shape on it with a pencil. Using a jigsaw, cut out the shape along this line.
• Install the second gypsum board in the same way. The distance from one sheet to another will depend on how thick you want the structure to be.
• A metal profile should be attached along the perimeter of the resulting shape. How to bend it was described in the previous subsection. To make the structure reliable, screw the profile onto a sufficient number of metal screws.
• Now you need to cover the figure with a strip of arched plasterboard. Cut the strip to the required length. You already know how to shape this element of the arch from the previous subsection.

The principle of constructing a figured arch/wall is the same as the technology for manufacturing a symmetrical structure. Use a little imagination, follow the technology outlined in the article and you will be able to do everything yourself.

Agree, an arch covered with plasterboard is aesthetically pleasing attractive looking does not have. Therefore, it's time to start finishing arches. To begin, cover all drywall joints with fiberglass mesh. Then apply several layers of putty on it using linear movements and sand the surface sandpaper different grain sizes. To perform this task you do not need to have any special knowledge.

Note! To be sure, check the quality of the design again - its symmetry (if we're talking about about a symmetrical arch), reliability and rigidity. If everything is in order, then it’s time to putty the surface of the arched structure.

To do this, purchase from hardware store acrylic-based putty intended for interior work. The seams should be treated with a more durable compound. This way, you can prevent the possibility of cracks appearing at the joints. You can mix the putty until smooth using an electric drill with a special mixer attachment. Before kneading the dry mixture, read the instructions for it from the manufacturer.

Note! To ensure a smooth surface without defects, make sure that there are no pieces of plaster or scraps of paper left on the arch. Apply putty to the screw heads.

All minor defects on drywall, such as holes and dents, fill with putty. Smooth out any uneven surfaces and remove any remaining leveling mixture with a spatula. The surface you level should be flush with the rest of the arch and wall. It will be very difficult to correct these mistakes later. Therefore, the issue of correcting defects should be taken seriously.

When all the seams and screw heads have been puttied and sanded, apply to the arch thin layer finishing putty. After it has dried, go over the surface with fine-grained sandpaper. All curves of the arch must be perfectly even and the lines smooth.

The doorway will look more aesthetically pleasing if you design it in the form of a semicircular arch. You can make it from plasterboard yourself, without resorting to the services of professional builders.

Arch markings

A significant disadvantage of this design is the reduction in the size of the doorway. To see whether the arch will fit well into a specific doorway, it is better to first cut a blank from paper or cardboard and secure it above the door. If the opening height is less than 2.5 m, it may be necessary to reduce the bend of the arch or make small bends only at the corners of the arch.

Installation of an arch with a small bending radius

To draw the upper part of the arch on the workpiece, we will use compass. You can make it from available materials: a self-tapping screw or an awl fixed in the center of a circle, thread and a pencil. By evenly pulling the thread, we draw the required arc. The longer the thread, the flatter the arch will be.

Constructing a circle

You can also make a compass from a scrap metal profile.

Drywall cutting

1. First, cut through the first layer of cardboard and the gypsum core. To do this, apply a ruler to the intended line and draw along it several times. sharp knife or a metal file.

Cutting through the first two layers

2. To finally break the gypsum core, place the drywall on its edge and lightly tap the cut area. If the part being cut has a small width, you can break the plaster by simply pressing on the edge of the sheet.

Cutting the second layer

4. To remove roughness along the edge of the cut, it is processed sandpaper or rasp.

Important! For perfect joining of sheets along the edges of the drywall, use a sharp knife to remove 45° chamfer.

Chamfering

Cutting blanks for the upper arch of the arch

It is most convenient to work with jigsaw or a special plane for drywall. Using them you can cut out any shapes from drywall. Moreover, with this method, gypsum practically does not generate dust, and the resulting edges require almost no additional processing.

Cutting with a jigsaw

Trim curly edges it is possible with the help drywall knife saw-shaped or metal files with fine teeth. However, this will require some skill. A knife or file is drawn along the intended line so that the blade penetrates as deeply as possible into the sheet. In this case, the tool must go strictly perpendicular to the surface. Next, tap the cut area with a hammer and, if necessary, run the knife over it several more times.

Cutting with a drywall saw

Then it cuts through back side sheet, on which traces of pressure from the knife are already visible. Then the excess pieces are cut off and the edges of the sheet are trimmed with sandpaper. If the cut line is large enough, it is better to cut the sheet inside the outline into segments.

For getting holes(for example, to install lamps or sockets), you can use an electric drill with a crown-shaped attachment.

Drill bit

Cutting and bending metal guides

Aluminum guides are cut using conventional metal scissors. To attach the upper part of the arch you will need a special arched profile. You can buy it in a store or make it yourself.

To bend the profile, they are made on it cuts. The distance between them depends on the bending radius - the larger it is, the more often notches should be made. For bending, it is better to choose an L-shaped profile - it will be much easier to work with it, and the cuts will have to be made only on one side.

Profile bending

Drywall bending

For arch construction you can purchase arched plasterboard. It is more plastic and, since its thickness is less than ordinary sheets, it bends easily. However, buy whole sheet quite expensive. Some stores sell this material not in sheets, but in pieces, which is very convenient. If it is not possible to purchase a small piece, you can also bend a regular sheet of drywall.

Thin arched drywall bends easily, but costs more

To do this, you can use two methods: wet and dry. In the first case, in order for moisture to better penetrate deep into the sheet, the plasterboard blank should be rolled before bending. needle roller.

Before bending, the workpiece is rolled with a needle roller

Next the sheet is evenly moistened with water and placed on a curved surface that follows the shape of the arch, pressing down with a weight. A device for drying the workpiece can be cut from the remains of drywall or plywood.

Wet bending

Important! With any bending method, it should be taken into account that drywall bends well only along the length of the sheet.

At dry bending cuts are made along the entire length of the fold. Moreover, the larger the bending radius, the more often such notches should be applied. This can be done quickly with a grinder, however, since this creates a lot of gypsum dust, it is better to do the work outside.

Dry bending of plasterboard

Frame installation

After dismantling the door frame, the surface is cleaned of loose plaster, dust and dirt and all irregularities are knocked down. Next, on the sides of the doorway, using self-tapping dowels in increments of 20-30 cm, they are fixed two rack metal profiles. In this case, you should retreat 11-12 mm from the edge for installing drywall and applying putty. If the opening width is large (more than 1 m), between two guides they are attached jumpers. Small sections of profiles connecting two side guides are also mounted in the lower part of the opening. They should rest against the floor.

Mounted at the top of the doorway two curved profiles. If necessary, they are also connected to each other by jumpers.

Fastening the upper part of the profile

Fastening the profile with jumpers

The profile sections are fastened together with self-tapping screws

Fastening drywall

The very first self-tapping screws in increments of 25-35 cm blanks for the upper semicircle of the arch are attached. Their width should be equal to the width of the doorway plus 10-15 mm. You should not fasten the screws too close to the corners - you need to make an indent of 1-1.5 cm, otherwise cracks will appear at the fastening points.

Drywall installation

Fastening the corners

Important! To prevent the screws from protruding above the surface, they should be recessed into the sheet a couple of millimeters. Subsequently, the holes from them are covered with putty.

The finished structure is plastered with a wide spatula first starting, and then finishing putty. The solution is applied to inner side arches, and then, after it has completely dried, on side walls. At the joints of drywall, to protect the solution from cracking, it is attached with putty. painting mesh.

After installation is completed, the arch is covered with putty

Attaching the painting mesh

Reading time ≈ 11 minutes

To transform the inside of a house or apartment, it is not at all necessary to break down walls, lay bricks or make concrete pouring. Drywall can replace messy construction activities and easily create complex architectural forms. This material is very popular today, as it is convenient to install. Drywall makes it possible to create multi-level structures on the surface of ceilings and in the opening, to build columns various forms and sizes, or arches. A do-it-yourself plasterboard arch is a real and not complicated project. Observing the right technology using special tools and following clear instructions, the arch can be equipped in 2-3 days.

Capable of emphasizing the style of the interior of the room, introducing new architectural solutions and original changes. In addition, a properly installed arch can easily hide a ceiling defect such as a problem with mismatched slabs in the floors. The arch should be equipped if you want to get rid of interior door, but don't leave door frame in the doorway. The installation technology will vary depending on the measurement parameters of the opening and the characteristics of the material from which the walls of the house or apartment are made.

In the opening between rooms it can also be installed on a solid wall. IN in this case you will have to cut an opening in the wall that matches in height and width with the right sizes. The edges of the opening may be uneven; in any case, they will be hidden by the arched structure.

Types of arches

A material such as plasterboard is very convenient to use and allows you to construct complex designs various forms. It lends itself well to cutting, is easy to install, and when wetted is capable of bending and accepting the required form. The material has a smooth flat surface, therefore most often does not require additional finishing and puttying. Drywall is lightweight, so the work can be done alone without any help.

Due to its functional properties, plasterboard makes it possible to construct arched openings the most complex, original and bizarre shapes, also creating carved through holes and decorative shelves in the design. Which design is better to choose, and how to properly make a plasterboard arch:

You should choose an arch design based on your interior. The design should complement the overall picture and fit into the style of the apartment. The technology for constructing a plasterboard arch with step-by-step instructions is shown in this video.

Advantages of plasterboard structures

Drywall is the material that is increasingly being chosen for the construction of door arches. Plasterboard structures Today they are popular and in demand among builders and designers; they are widespread in interiors due to their many advantages:

Most often, door arches are installed in the living room, hallway, corridor, balcony or loggia. An elegant do-it-yourself arch made of plasterboard is shown in the photo.

Before you begin the process of installing the arch, you should not forget about several questions:

Necessary materials

• Drywall sheets. It is better to purchase two types: special thin arched gypsum board sheets up to 6.5 mm thick and wall plasterboard 12 mm thick.
• Gypsum-based putty solution.
• Fiberglass mesh.
• Self-tapping screws and dowels.
• Rack profiles made of metal.
• Paint or wallpaper.

The construction of a plasterboard arch with your own hands is shown in this video.

Necessary tools

• Drywall hacksaw or electric jigsaw
• Simple pencil
• Tape measure and carpenter's square
• Grout grater
• Hammer, drill and screwdriver
• Pliers
• Metal scissors
• Building level
• Putty knife
• Needle roller
• Sandpaper
• Sharp knife

Arch Toolkit

For construction metal frame for arches made of gypsum plasterboard, you will need several types of U-shaped guides made of aluminum: rack-mount for straight parts (60*27), guide for contours (28*27), arched and reinforced corners.

Stages of arch construction

The arched structure is created in several stages, following the sequence of which will bring you the desired result:

• Creation of a project plan.
• Preparing the doorway.
• Profile installation work.
• Preparing material for work.
• Installation work.
• Additional finishing.

Let's look at each stage in detail:

• Installation work.

Sometimes you want to refine the resulting arched structure. Particular attention is paid to the design of an arched opening if it is the main accent in the interior. Designers recommend paying attention to the options for the most advantageous finishing:

Building the arch of your dreams yourself is not difficult. The main thing is to strictly follow the instructions and carefully think through the design of the arched structure in advance.

Today we, dear readers, will talk about how to make and install a plasterboard arch with your own hands. Let's figure out what it is, what types of it are most often found in modern interiors, what is needed for installation, and, in fact, its very order.

Types of interior arches

In general, there are several dozen types of openings, but we will highlight the most suitable ones from the point of view of practicality and design for the interior of an ordinary apartment.

1. Round or “classic”. The radius of curvature is equal to half the width of the opening. The most popular option. Looks especially advantageous in interiors made in classic style. Most significant drawback- it takes away the height of the opening more than other types of arches.

   Round arch - the most popular option

2. Segmental or “modern”. The radius of curvature is more than half the width of the opening. Distributed slightly less than round. This type of arch looks best on wide openings with thick walls. It may have sharp edges, or it may have smooth edges, which makes it more similar to the next option.

   The arch in the Art Nouveau style also has many admirers

3. "Romantic" (or "romance"). It has two small curves and a flat top. It is much less common than the first two species, and looks more interesting. It also has reduced drywall consumption.

   A romantic style arch looks more elegant than the most popular options

4. "Portal". Super simple and super cheap solution. Appropriate as in classic interior, and in high-tech style, and especially where the walls form an angle.

   The simplest and cheapest solution

5. Half-arch. Most stylish option. Most suitable for modern interiors and is used quite often. It can be formed not only by a quarter of a circle, but also by a very small part of it (a circle of a very large radius), or, for example, it can only have a rounded corner.

   The most stylish option

We have discussed the main types of arches, now we can briefly remind you why you should choose plasterboard.

Its main advantages include:

• Lightness of design;
• Cheapness;
• Easy to install.

Tools and accessories

To assemble you will need to have:

1. Ceiling guide profiles PNP 28×27 mm.
2. Ceiling profiles PP 60×27 mm (possible).
3. Sealing tape.
4. "Dowel-nails."
5. Jigsaw.
6. The rule is aluminum.
7. Drywall sheet.
8. Putty for drywall joints.
9. Reinforcing tape for seams (serpyanka) or paper tape.
10. Roulette.
11. Hammer.
12. A stationery knife (or a special knife for cutting HA).
13. Hammer + drill.
14. Screwdriver.
15. Self-tapping screws for metal 25–35 mm (black, frequent pitch).
16. Acrylic primer.
17. Metal scissors.
18. Set of spatulas.
19. Plastic protective corner.

Here's what you need to stock up on to install an arch

To install an arch, it doesn’t make much difference what thickness of drywall you use. For the ends, 12.5 mm is best, and for the arch, 9 mm.

Step-by-step instructions for installing a plasterboard structure with your own hands

We have a room with an opening in which we would like to place an arch - let’s focus on the “modern” option:

Empty room with opening

Opening in the room close-up

First of all, we must decide what height and radius our arch will be. Our opening is 130 cm, we suggest setting the height at 22 cm. From top floor the highest point should be at least 7 cm apart (taking into account the thickness of the plasterboard), so that two guides can be secured without problems, which means that our lowest point drops by 22 + 7 = 29 cm.

But for now we are not interested in this distance, but in the fact that WITHOUT taking into account the thickness of the lower strip of the main line, that is, 28.1 cm. We draw lines on both sides in the opening. The thickness of the wall in our example is 17 cm, and in order to mount the frame, we need to take into account the thickness of the drywall. Take a small, preferably long piece of HA and the rule. We place the rule horizontally along the wall through the opening and slip our piece under it. We fasten the guide profiles at a distance equal to the thickness of the drywall from the corner, like this:

We fasten the guide profiles at a distance equal to the thickness of the drywall

Naturally, we glue each profile with sealing tape. We slightly bend the lower edge of the horizontal profile - we will have an inclined surface. We do the same on the other side of the opening, after which we attach the profiles to the top. We insert them into the already fixed side ones and, constantly monitoring them with a rule with a piece of “plaster”, fix them with dowel nails. It turns out something like this:

Installing profiles to the top

Opening with installed profiles

The next step is to mark the sheet of drywall directly under the arch. The most convenient way to do this is on the floor: first we mark rectangles 130×28.1 cm, then we draw our radius with an improvised compass (using thread or tape measure).

To draw the radius, we need an improvised compass

In the case of a classic arch, this would be a piece of cake, but with our “modern” everything is not so obvious. How to choose the radius? Only the height and width are known. Let's remember school course geometry. For clarity, let’s build everything on paper and calculate the radius using the Pythagorean theorem, indicating the width of the opening - a, and the height of the arch - b:

It's time to remember the Pythagorean theorem

In our case, we get a radius of 107 cm. Using improvised means, we draw arcs on a sheet of paper and cut out the resulting shapes with a jigsaw. Now we can hang them on our exposed guide profiles, or we can not hang them for now. This will depend on where it will be more convenient for you to mount the next guides: “on the ground” or “in place”. Let's try it on the spot, sewing one blank to the frame for now. We will now need to take a piece of the guide profile the length of the arc of the arch and approximately every 65 mm. cut one side and back edge with metal scissors, like this:

Close-up of profile cuts

This is necessary so that the profile can bend. The distance of 65 mm was not chosen by chance - if our wall is thicker than 25 cm, it is recommended to insert jumpers from ceiling profile, which is known to have a width of 60 mm. In our case, jumpers are not needed. We sew the profile onto the sheet, being careful not to pierce your finger.

Sew the profile onto the sheet

Now we repeat the operations on the other side of the wall, fasten the sheet to the frame and sew on the guides:

And now - the second side face

The same installation method is used, for example, for boxes.

We remember the need to chamfer the ends of the sheet.

Now all that remains is to attach the strip at the bottom. If the arch has a large radius, as in our example, the strip can be attached immediately - the drywall bends well (much better across the sheet than along it). If the radius is too small and there is a danger that the strip will break, just moisten it with water; no needle rollers are needed. Dampen the top with a brush, let it sit for a while and you will see that it will bend even easier. You can make a long strip out of several short ones, but then you will have to insert jumpers at the joints and additionally process the seams. Our sheet width is smaller than the width of the opening, so we are forced to cut a strip along the sheet, but it’s okay - at such a radius it can be bent without problems.

Close-up of the finished result

That's all. All that remains is to seal the seams and place the protective corners. They are usually placed on gypsum putty. This task, let’s say right away, is quite difficult, since the corners constantly stick out everywhere, wrinkle, etc. Usually they have to be fixed with self-tapping screws at several points, and after the putty has set, they must be unscrewed.

Installing plastic corners is a difficult but mandatory process

Besides, plastic corners(and regular metal ones too) are quite thick, so after installing them we advise you to additionally level the surface with putty “as a rule”, using Fugenfüller. And only then putty everything together with the finish.

In the case when the arch is made in a partition from HA, everything becomes even simpler. You will only have to suffer at the stage of installing the corners, but without this you will not be able to form a clear corner any other way. Other types of arches are assembled in the same way, only the markings differ.

Now we can easily with my own hands assemble an arch from plasterboard. Good luck to you in your construction business!

How to make an arch in a doorway? This question interests many owners of apartments and private houses.

It should be noted right away that an arched opening can only look ideal in rooms with high ceilings.

With low ceilings, such a structure visually significantly reduces the opening. Therefore, you should think carefully before deciding to build an arch. If you accept it, then you can find a lot of materials to implement your idea.

Methods for constructing arches

How to make an arch instead of doors? Today there are such ways to create arches:

1. For an arched opening, the wall is hollowed out according to pre-made markings. This method is more suitable for rooms with not very high ceilings.
2. If the ceiling height is sufficient and doorways their upper part is sealed with pieces of plasterboard or plywood to give them an arched shape.

When chiseling a wall proceed as follows:

1. You need to remove all decorative finishing including door frame.
2. From the floor itself, a vertical line is marked on both sides of the opening to the height of the future arch. For accurate markings, use a level or plumb line.
3. The width of the marked opening is measured and divided in half. The result is the radius of the arch.
4. The center of the arch is marked on the upper horizontal line. A screw, self-tapping screw or nail is fixed to this point.
5. A strong thread is tied to the screw, the other end is attached to a pencil. The excess thread is wound around the pencil, leaving a length equal to the radius arches.
6. A mark is made on the vertical line from the center point downwards at a radius distance.
7. A semicircle of the upper part of the arch is outlined.
8. On the other side of the wall, the marking operations are repeated.

Now you can start chiseling using a hammer drill or other tool. The choice of tool depends on the wall material. It is recommended to drill as much as possible along the intended contour more holes. They will help in the chiselling process. IN wooden wall The opening is cut out with a jigsaw or a hacksaw with a narrow blade. Final stage preparatory work– processing the edges of the resulting opening and decorating it with prepared materials.

At high ceilings do door arch It is possible if you follow this sequence of actions:

1. In an opening made of wooden or metal profiles The frame of the future arch is assembled.
2. Marking is done on drywall or other material from which rectangles need to be cut. Their width is equal to the radius of the arch, their length is equal to the width of the opening. Using a large compass or thread and a pencil, the upper arcs of the arch are marked and cut out with a jigsaw.
3. The resulting blanks are attached to the frame with hardened self-tapping screws. Their caps are recessed 0.5-1 mm into the drywall.
4. The end of the opening is sealed. This can be done using fiberboard. This material bends quite well. You can use a strip of plasterboard 8 mm thick. It is rolled several times with a needle roller and sprinkled with water. Punctures are made to a depth of up to half the thickness of the drywall sheet.
5. If there is no needle roller, punctures can be made with an ordinary awl. The distance between them is about 1 cm. They are made only on the side where the part will be bent. After some time (after about 1-1.5 hours), the plaster gets wet and the strip bends quite easily. It is better to bend it on a wooden or plasterboard template. After drying, it becomes hard again.
6. Drywall is puttied and the arch is decorated at your discretion.

Arch configurations

An arch in a house gives the rooms a certain personality. Configurations and forms arched openings there are quite a few. Let's look at some of them:

1. The classic version is suitable for rooms with a height of 3 m. Arch correct form has a bend radius of 45 cm or more. If you add it to the height of the doorway, then the total height of the room may simply not be enough.
2. The Art Nouveau arch is often erected in standard apartments. Its radius exceeds the width of the doorway, so there are angles between the vertical elements and the arc. They can be made sharp or rounded.
3. Romantic style is an arch option for large openings. There can be a horizontal insert between the rounded corners, or it can be installed at an angle.

The configuration of the arch depends on the desire and aesthetic taste of the owner of the home. An arched opening can be wavy, polygonal, illuminated, with various niches and shelves, with stained glass windows and so on.

Materials for arch equipment

The arched opening can be made from monolithic concrete, plastic, brick, metal, wood, chipboard, fiberboard, plywood, from plasterboard sheets and other materials. When using brick, concrete or stone, their weight must be taken into account. Such structures may require a special foundation and reinforcement elements for connection with the walls.

Metal is a material that fits into any style. But not every metal is suitable for these purposes. Option from of stainless steel is very expensive. Galvanized iron in interior spaces doesn't look good. It is quite difficult to make complex figures from metal.

Wood is a beautiful natural material. It requires virtually no additional finishing.

Drywall, wood fiber and particle board. These Construction Materials can be finished with plaster, painted, covered with a layer of decorative or ordinary plaster, paste over with wallpaper, veneer with decorative stone.

Plastic is a material that is easy to process. Plastic structures do not require additional processing and finishing.

To decorate the arches, they also sell ready-made designs from different materials.

1. The appearance of the arch should correspond to the overall design of the room. Each side of the opening can be designed differently.
2. Any work on the construction of arched openings begins with dismantling the door frame.
3. For convenience and to speed up the marking process, it is recommended to use a full-size template. It can be made from cardboard.
4. When constructing curved frame elements from metal profiles, slots are made on them that allow the workpiece to be bent. The slots are made in increments of about 5 cm.
5. For work, a drill or hammer drill, a hammer, iron scissors and a hacksaw are usually used. Sometimes other tools may be needed.
6. The frame is attached 10-12 mm deep into the doorway so that the drywall attached to it is flush with the wall after puttying.
7. The mounted structure is sanded and puttied. You can cover surfaces and corners with fiberglass mesh.