When to plant seedlings of peppers, tomatoes and other vegetable crops? Growing vegetable seedlings

To speed up the appearance of a good and high-quality harvest, most vegetable crops Today they are grown by seedlings.

It begins to be grown several weeks or months before planting in permanent place growth of culture.

IN this material we would like to discuss in more detail when is the best time to plant seedlings of the most popular vegetables today, grown in almost every summer cottage- This tomatoes, peppers, cucumbers, cabbage, eggplants and zucchini.

In recent years, it has become popular to plant seedlings according to the archery calendar or various folk signs.

It is believed that plants planted on the waning moon will be lifeless and weak. But we will consider more rational planting dates, based on the characteristics of each plant.

Modern gardeners grow seedlings in a variety of ways. Special pots, egg trays and even paper cups are used for this. The timing of planting seeds depends entirely on the species and individual characteristics growing vegetables. The main thing that needs to be taken into account is the approximate timing of planting cuttings in open ground to a permanent place.

They begin to grow seedlings, often in April, early May. Moreover, in May it can be grown directly in open ground under shelters made of special film, of course, if the year is warm. A few weeks before transplanting plants from insulated places, they are often hardened, that is, they are taken out little by little. open space streets, each time increasing the duration of stay in cooler conditions.

Planting pepper seedlings

Pepper is a very heat-loving crop, which is considered one of the most beneficial for the human body. It contains a huge amount of vitamin C and multivitamin A. Sweet pepper perfectly complements many meat dishes on our table, so summer residents grow it in their gardens.

Photo of pepper seedlings

Peppers are only suitable for seedling cultivation., since the time from germination to the appearance of the first fruits is quite long - 120-150 days. Peppers are transplanted into open ground at the age of 60-80 days, when the first buds appear on the bush. The approximate planting time is determined by the ambient temperature.

Having sprouted the first shoots, the plant grows well at temperatures from 12 to 15 degrees during the day, and from 6 to 10 at night. Therefore, the approximate planting time is the first ten days of June, when the risk of frost is minimal. During the period of seedling maturation in greenhouses, it requires periodic solar hardening, since plants that do not see the sun will immediately burn.

Tomato seedlings

Tomatoes are a round red vegetable with a sweet or sweet and sour flavor. Of all vegetable crops, tomatoes are the least demanding in growing conditions. But they are quite demanding on temperature conditions.

Photo of tomato seedlings

The first shoots appear in the ground already 3-7 days after sowing. The optimal temperature for normal development of tomatoes is considered to be 20-25 degrees. If the temperature rises above 30, their growth slows down significantly or stops altogether.

Tomato seedlings should be planted approximately 60-70 days before transplanting to a permanent location. Late varieties are planted in 45-50 days. The time for sowing seeds is March 10 - April 1. As a rule, replanting of young plants begins after spring frosts have ended.

For the central regions of the country - this is May 1-15, more northern regions– 10-20 June. If the seedlings have been previously hardened, then transplantation can be done 15-20 days earlier than the generally accepted dates.

Cucumber seedlings

Cucumbers are the most capricious vegetable in terms of transplanting. Before planting the plant seeds, they need to be germinated. In the twentieth of March - early April, you can begin to prepare seedlings.

Before sowing, the seeds are soaked in a solution of potassium permanganate (2 g per 250 g of water). Then they are transferred to a damp cloth, in which the temperature is maintained at 20-25 degrees. When the first sprouts appear, they begin to plant the plants in pots 6-10 cm wide.

The maximum age of a young plant before transplantation is 25-30 days. Transplantation into a greenhouse begins in mid-May, and in open ground in mid-June.

Zucchini and eggplant seedlings

These crops, like cucumbers, are very difficult to grow. The temperature of their normal development is 20-25 degrees. The first plant shoots appear 10-15 days after sowing.

The photo shows eggplant seedlings

If the temperature drops, seedlings may appear much later. Early ripening varieties of zucchini produce fruit only 100 days after planting, which is why they are grown through seedlings.

Plants are usually transplanted into the ground 60-65 days after sowing the seeds. The plant does not tolerate frost, so it is better to plant eggplant seedlings in mid-March and transfer them to the ground at the end of May.

Cabbage sowing time

Cabbage seeds are sown at different times, it all depends on the crop variety. But usually this happens 60-65 days before transplanting into open ground. Cabbage seedlings of earlier varieties can be started already in mid-March, middle and late varieties - from mid-April.

The first harvest of early varieties occurs after 90-110 days, for middle ones - 130-150 days, while late varieties produce fruit 150-170 days after planting.

This plant is cold-resistant and light-loving, and has special requirements to soil fertility. Seedlings develop normally at a temperature of 6 to 10 degrees before the first shoots appear, then the temperature needs to be increased to 14-18 degrees.

The timing of planting seedlings is different for each plant. Therefore, before starting it, study the growing characteristics of the crop in order to get a rich and healthy harvest on time.

I remember my first experience of growing seedlings, it was both exciting and joyful at the same time: something new had appeared exciting hobby- vegetable growing. In the first year I grew good seedlings of tomatoes, peppers, eggplants, and leeks.
In the article I collected my observations as a beginner; I hope it will be useful for beginning summer residents to read.

Preparing the land for seedlings

Preparing the land for seedlings begins in the fall. Don't be afraid to stock up on too much land, there's no such thing as too much. If you prepare 10 buckets for seedlings, you certainly won’t go wrong. It is convenient to prepare the mixture in buckets, and to transport it home, pour it into double tightly tied bags. You can store the soil on an unheated balcony or loggia; Siberian frosts below -40 will disinfect the soil in this way; I’m too lazy to warm up the soil in the oven.

Ingredients: well-ripened humus 2 parts (determined visually - black, like chernozem, without the remains of unrotted plants), simple garden soil 1 part (best taken from beds where legumes or green manure grew). For peppers you can take more humus, for eggplants even more, they are the most demanding of soil fertility. Add a glass to the bucket of mixture wood ash and about 1 kg of clean sand. Instead of half the dose of ash, you can add 25 g of superphosphate; if there is no ash at all, you can add 50 g of superphosphate instead. It is important to check if there are earthworms in the ground - they are useful only in the country, and in small containers they can spoil delicate roots. Ideally, you can sift the soil.

Grab some clean sand; it will be useful for sprinkling around drooping stems in case of overwatering of seedlings and the first signs of blackleg disease appearing.

If you haven’t had time to prepare the soil mixture yourself, then purchased land and sand will also work. I tried and special compounds for every type of vegetable, and universal soil - I liked everything.

The soil must be brought from the balcony 5-7 days before the start of work so that it thaws well. When weeds begin to sprout in the soil, it is considered ready for sowing. 4-5 days before the sowing date, you need to spread the soil in containers and pour hot water with potassium permanganate, proportion approximately 2 g per 10 liters of water.

Prepare containers of different sizes in advance. Many people buy peat pots, but I read that the soil in them often dries out. I use containers 8-10 cm high for leeks, for peppers with eggplants and tomatoes before the first pick - disposable 200 ml cups and 250 g plastic sour cream containers. It is better to put transparent cups in an opaque box, since it is better for plant roots to be in the dark. I experimented with the sizes of containers and came to the conclusion that both large ones - 7-8 cm in height, width, length - and regular 200 ml cups are suitable for peppers and eggplants; for tomatoes from the first picking to the second, 200 ml cups are also suitable, but after the second picking, large containers are needed so that the roots have room to grow, for example, trimmed 1 liter milk tea bags.
It is very advisable to pierce the bottom of the containers: you can use an awl, 2-3 punctures. Regarding drainage: I tried growing both without it and with expanded clay drainage, I didn’t notice any difference.

What else can be useful for seedlings?

An opaque film for covering the drawers and a container for settling the water are required, or a watering can can be used. I specifically measured the hardness of our tap water - it turned out to be very hard, it leaves stains on the surface of the earth. A spray bottle with a regulator for two positions turned out to be convenient - one stream and spray. Old trays will come in handy so that you don’t have to carry cups one at a time to the loggia and back, and so that the cups drain onto pallets and not onto window sills. I also found a room thermometer useful - for a beginner it is difficult to determine by eye the air temperature on a windowsill or loggia, but for plants it is very important to observe the temperature regime.

If the windows do not face south, you will need a fluorescent lamp for illumination, or better yet several.

If you intend to feed and are not against mineral fertilizers, then you will need potassium permanganate, “Ideal”, superphosphate, urea, nitrophoska, boric acid. To prepare Bordeaux mixture for the prevention of late blight in tomatoes: copper sulfate, slaked lime or soda ash (100 g copper sulfate dissolve in 1 liter of water, bring the volume to 5 liters, in another container in 5 liters of water dilute 100 g of slaked lime or soda ash, mix slowly, pour the first solution into the second, not vice versa; Bordeaux mixture cannot be stored).

How can a beginner decide on seed varieties?

The most reliable thing is to consider vegetable plantings from experienced neighbors in the country, ask them about the characteristics of the varieties, and also read the advice of experienced summer residents in your region. The image on the seed packaging is always beautiful, but you need to know how the crop will behave in the conditions of its native land. Don’t forget to write down the names of varieties after excursions to neighboring plots.

To be on the safe side, it is better to choose not one or two, but several proven varieties - with good germination, uniform ripening, and resistance to many diseases. Read seed packages carefully.

Select mid-ripening and early-ripening varieties of peppers, eggplants and tomatoes to treat yourself to your first fruits at the end of July, and maybe earlier. If you have greenhouses, garden passion and time, buy late-ripening varieties of tomatoes. Late-ripening peppers and eggplants in Siberia do not have time to ripen, so if there is no heated greenhouse, then there is no need to risk it.

For myself, I wrote out the following most praised varieties, but for the sake of experiment, I also bought 1-2 varieties of each crop simply according to the label I liked.

Peppers: Red Knight (aka Red Knight), Belladonna (aka White Lady), Swallow, Atlant F1 (the prefix F1 means a hybrid, usually high-yielding, not requiring pre-sowing treatment, but subsequently the seeds from hybrid fruits are not used to obtain their own), Star of the East, Shanghai, Aristotle, California Miracle (although the latter has low germination rate). These varieties are thick-walled.

Eggplant: Epic F1, King of the North F1, King of the Market F1, Mirabella, Black Beauty.

Tomatoes for salads and general purpose: Bull's heart(similar to Ox Ears), Miracle of the Earth, Mazarin, Orange, Malachite Box, De Barao, Scarlet Candles, Golden King. These are all greenhouse varieties.

Tomatoes for pickling: Intuition, Cascade, Nocturne, Kostroma, Icicle, Parsley the Gardener, Black Moor, Red Giant, Labrador, F1 Jury (aka Bipop), F1 Intrigue. Most are greenhouse.

Tomato for long-term storage: Marfa - for open ground.

Tomatoes for open ground, early ripening: Wonder of the World, Early 83, Golden heart, Red Banana, Russian Apple Tree, Snowdrop, Little Red Riding Hood, Zolotnik, Buyan (Fighter).

Leek: the most win-win variety is Tango.

Sowing dates, influence of the lunar calendar, folk signs

The very first, in mid-February, they sow peppers, since they rise up slowly. Then eggplant- they can be sown in mid-late February and in the first ten days of March. By the time fruiting begins, the height of the plants will still be approximately the same, I checked.

Peppers sown in mid-February are on the right, in mid-March - on the left.

Eggplants in early May, sown in mid-February (in the middle among the peppers).

Eggplants in early May, sown in mid-March.

All eggplants and peppers are in the greenhouse in July, growth is the same.

Seeds tomatoes divide into three piles: sow late-ripening interdeterminate ones (with unlimited growth) in early March, mid-ripening ones - in the first ten days of March or even in mid-March, i.e. 60-65 days before planting in the greenhouse, early-ripening determinate (their height is limited to 40-70 cm, they do not grow higher) for open ground - in early April, 45 days before planting in open ground, usually such tomatoes are planted after the last frost, those. in early June.

If you want to experiment with tomatoes and achieve a tall trunk, which can then be deepened into the ground when transplanted into a greenhouse and achieve many shoots from the trunk (there are such intensive methods), you can sow at the end of February, but be prepared for the seedlings to outgrow and difficulties when transporting tall plants to the dacha. I tried to grow the tomato varieties Bezdimensional and Golden Rain using intensive methods; only Golden Rain was successful, despite the fact that it is not large-fruited. But it took a lot of time for gartering and pinching in the greenhouse, as well as hassle with lighting and worries due to the paleness of the seedlings. Of course, if the top of a tomato breaks off, it can be easily revived by placing it in water for several days; the trunk of the tomato easily sprouts roots, but these are all unnecessary worries.

The broken off top of a tomato will quickly sprout roots in water.

Sow the leek at the end of February; anyway, it will not overgrow much and is not so demanding of light.

If you believe in moon calendar, then the basic rules are as follows: plants whose fruits ripen above the ground are sown on the waxing Moon, and those ripening underground - on the waning Moon; on the full moon and new moon, as well as 1-2 days after and before them, the earth and plants are given rest.
But our grandmothers followed one simple rule: plantings are done on Wednesday, Friday or Saturday. It was believed that plants planted on these days would bear fruit well, since the names of the days of the week are nouns female, called such days of the week “women’s days.”

It is also useful to take a closer look at the weather outside the window: if it is still cold and cloudy, there is a snowstorm - it means that nature is “not feeling well”, it is too early to sow, wait a couple of days.

Determining the number of seedlings

Plan in advance how many cups and boxes with seedlings you can place on the windowsills; maybe you will need to make an additional “window sill”, under which you will need another lamp for illumination, and place the table near the window. Nowadays, shelving is popular, especially among gardeners who grow several hundred roots. beautiful flowers. For vegetables, greenhouses will also be needed in the country, especially in Siberian conditions, but an unlimited number of roots will not fit there, this must also be taken into account.

The seeds are soaked in fabric bags in a pale pink solution of potassium permanganate for 15-20 minutes, removed, washed for 2-3 seconds in running water. You can soak it in the “Ideal” solution for a day, or in water obtained from melted clean snow, it is called “live”, but it is better to soak it in damp gauze so that the seeds “breathe”. Then it is useful to harden the seeds by putting them in the refrigerator at a temperature of +2+4 degrees for five nights, maybe less (you need to take them out during the day and keep them at room temperature). Don't forget to label the seed varieties. There are also methods for heating seeds - using a battery, in a thermos, etc. But I think this is a bit difficult for a novice summer resident, you can forget to check, overheat the seeds, “burn” them, the preparation methods described above are sufficient.

Sowing seeds

It is necessary to sow each type of seed in a separate container, since varieties germinate differently. The soil is compacted a little, spilled, waiting for the water to be absorbed, holes are made with a pencil, seeds are placed, and the top is covered with dry, loose soil to a height of 0.5 to 1.5 cm, depending on the size of the seeds. The smaller the seeds, the lower the height of the backfill, Golden Rule planting - the depth should be three times the width of the seed.

Since I'm growing peppers and eggplants without picking (this is transplanting plants into a larger container with pinching the roots), as crops with delicate roots that are easily damaged when picking, I sow 2 seeds in one cup, then discard the least developed ones. And the germination rate of seeds is not 100%.

Tomatoes picking is needed, this gives impetus to the development of lateral roots; the more there are, the better the nutrition for the fruit. Also, picking (more precisely, two pickings) gives a little respite to tomato seedlings; they do not stretch as much as without picking. Therefore, tomatoes can first be planted in boxes - containers about 8-10 cm high.

Don’t forget to sign the names of the varieties on the containers with an indelible marker, you can use a code so as not to write the full name of the variety on each cup; mark the sowing date for subsequent monitoring of seedlings.

Labeled cups with pepper seedlings:

Next, the crops are covered with an opaque film and put in a warm place, where the temperature is about 23-25 ​​degrees for tomatoes, and for peppers and eggplants it can be higher - about 25-28 degrees. You can spray it once with a spray bottle if the soil is dry. The mode on the spray bottle is spray. Do not water with a stream, as this can inadvertently dislodge the seeds that have begun to germinate. After this, do not close the drawers immediately, let them ventilate better.

Leek You can spread it out on clean snow laid out on compacted earth, put it in a cold place, and when the snow melts, sprinkle it with a layer of about 0.5 cm of earth, cover it with film.

Light for seedlings

Before seedlings emerge, you need to ventilate the plantings for several minutes once a day. Tomatoes sprout quickly, on days 3-5, as soon as you notice the first shoots, they look like a thick loop - place them on window sills, under lighting. You can use a temporary relay, turning on the lamp in the morning from 7 a.m. to 8-9 a.m., in the evening after sunset until 21-22 p.m., and more in cloudy weather. With increasing daylight hours, in the first ten days of March, the lamp may no longer be used. Also, to increase light, wash the window at least from the inside.

Tomatoes are especially demanding of light. I have only one fluorescent lamp, so at first the peppers and eggplants grow under it, then, closer to mid-March, I move them to the windowsill without lighting, they will no longer be drawn to the light much. And I put newly sprouted tomatoes on the windowsill with a lamp, because tomatoes are planted starting in early March.

Light for peppers and eggplants

Watering seedlings

Watering should be moderate, as soon as the top layer of soil becomes dry, only with warm water, to avoid diseases, about once a week. Ideally, it would be good to water so that the water does not touch the stems of the plants. To do this, use a spray bottle, place the nozzle in the stream position, direct the stream away from the plant stem, for example, onto the walls of a glass.
When overwatering and drooping stems, carefully sprinkle sand around the stem, as if “salting”. Check that all cups have drainage holes.

If it is not possible to water the seedlings in a timely manner, use hydrogel; it is mixed with the soil during planting.

Temperature for seedlings

The temperature for peppers should be about +16-18 degrees during the day in the first week after germination, for eggplants +17-20 degrees. At night - up to +10 degrees. Then the temperature can be increased: during the day - to room temperature, and at night to +15-18 degrees.

After the emergence of shoots in the form of a “loop”, tomatoes can be transferred to the windowsill, gradually removing the film, and as soon as you see the cotyledon leaves, we put them in the coldest and brightest place; at night temperatures are not scary even +5+10 degrees, during the day +13- 15 degrees. After 3-4 days, the temperature can be raised to +17-20 degrees during the day and up to +15 degrees at night.

Leeks can be grown in a cool place, like tomatoes, but you still need to make sure that the sprouts do not look depressed.

You can regulate the temperature by simply moving the boxes with cups towards and away from the window, or by opening the window briefly in calm weather. You can cover the trays with cups (loosely) with something, especially in the first couple of weeks after emergence. Don’t forget to fold back the cover after closing the window. You shouldn’t be particularly zealous about opening the windows; the seedlings are easy to freeze. Control the temperature.

If you don't like some plants appearance, don’t rush to throw them away, just mark them (I drew pluses and minuses on the cups with a marker). Sometimes seemingly weak hybrids grow better than beautiful, strong ones with increasing daylight hours. Watch them, write down the results of your observations, next year it will be interesting to check the results of the last sowing season.

Feeding seedlings

You can start feeding peppers and eggplants a couple of weeks after two or three true leaves appear, at the first picking. The proportions are always written on fertilizer packages. For example, for the first feeding it is approximately 1.5-2 grams of superphosphate and 1-1.5 grams of potassium salt per bucket of water, 1.5-2 grams of urea. Feeding is done after regular watering with warm water. Two weeks after the dive, another feeding is needed. And a week before planting, you need to fertilize with potassium salt, as well as foliar (spraying on the leaves) fertilizing, one liter for about 100 plants: half a gram of potassium permanganate, 0.3 grams of copper sulfate, 0.3 grams boric acid for 1 liter of water.

Tomatoes are fed 7-10 days after picking, and also as soon as the first flower bud appears. Proportions for the first feeding: 1 teaspoon of urea, 40 grams of superphosphate, 15 g of potassium salt per 10 liters of water, this is enough for about 200 plants. Fertilizing is done on damp soil, after fertilizing you need to water it again, if the soil becomes waterlogged, spread the fertilizing for 2-3 days. Second feeding: potassium and phosphorus are doubled, nitrogen (urea) is added only if the leaves are pale green and the lower ones have not turned yellow.

The general rule for feeding: it is better to do it in warm weather outside the window so as not to provoke plant diseases.

A day before planting, you can spray peppers and eggplants with Epin solution. If the tomatoes already have flowers 4-5 days before planting, the plants should be sprayed with a solution of boric acid - 1 gram of boric acid per 1 liter of water, and spraying is carried out only in cloudy weather, in the morning, since in the sun the leaves may appear sunny burns.

Also, for prevention, you need to treat the seedlings 1-2 times with 1% Bordeaux mixture, the preparation is described above, and immediately before planting, spray with skim milk, proportion 1:10 with water.

Leeks are fed with complex mineral fertilizer 2-3 times.

Pulling out seedlings turns them into thin-stemmed, pale green ones; subsequently, the fruits will not receive enough nutrition from the soil, so it is important to ensure that the seedlings do not stretch out.

Picking peppers and eggplants I don’t produce, I wrote the reasons above, but it is still necessary to ensure that the seedlings do not stretch. To prevent plants from stretching due to lack of light, you can pinch some of the seedlings of peppers and eggplants after the fifth or sixth true leaf (we don’t count cotyledons), the plant will stop growing for a couple of weeks and produce more fruit, albeit a couple of weeks later. Seedlings that are not pinched will produce, although fewer fruits, but earlier, so we do not pinch all the peppers, but some, if we want to try the harvest earlier. If we pinch the seedlings after planting them in the ground, there may not be enough time for the development of side shoots.

It is absolutely necessary to pick tomatoes. The first picking is carried out in the phase of two true leaves, watering is carried out two hours before the process.

A depression is made in the new cup with your finger or pencil, the size is so that the spine does not bend. Bottom part The root is pinched off with nails or scissors by about a third. We hold the plant by the leaves, and not by the stem, as you can break the thin stem. We transfer it to the recess, deepen it almost to the cotyledon leaves, carefully fill it in, lightly tamp it around the stem.

For two days after this, we do not expose the plants to the sun, we maintain the temperature at +18-20 degrees during the day, at night +15-17, if it is hotter, the plants will outgrow. On the second day after picking, carefully loosen the soil - with a toothpick, fork, and lower the temperature again.

The second picking is done when the roots become crowded in the cup, we simply transfer the plants without clearing the roots from the soil, we do not touch the roots anymore.

On the left are 8 cups of tomatoes between the first and second picking, on the right are tomatoes immediately after the second picking.

I “trim” the leek by 3-4 centimeters a couple of times so that the bleached stem grows.

Trimmed leeks in mid-April:

Plants need to be tied up as soon as they begin to droop. I liked tying it with twine to wooden skewers for homemade shish kebab; the skewers are cheap. The twine is wrapped in a figure eight so that the barrel does not touch the skewer.

Garter for skewers.

A couple of weeks before planting, the seedlings must be hardened off, both in the sun and in the cold, as well as in the wind.

First, they simply open the windows not only during the day, but also at night. Then, in warm weather, they take it out onto the balcony for a period of 2-3 hours, and after a couple of days they leave it for the whole day. But for the first few days they cover it with film at night.

To adjust the temperature, use a thermometer; the door to the room can be left open if it is very cool on the balcony or loggia on any day.

Before hardening, the soil should be spilled with warm water, so the seedlings will be warmer, but under no circumstances should the plants be watered at night! Also, watering is not carried out in cloudy weather.

If the first signs of wilting of the top (black leg disease) appear, sprinkle sand around the stem, as if to “salt” it.
Make sure that the plants are not broken by the wind and that the soil does not dry out - this happens faster in the wind and sun than in a warm apartment.

We temper it on the loggia, not forgetting to control the temperature with a thermometer.

Peppers and eggplants before planting, they should be no more than 20-25 cm high, with a thick stem (3-4 mm at the soil surface), there should be about 12-14 leaves, several buds.

Before planting, tomatoes should be no more than 30-35 cm, the smaller the better. Well-hardened seedlings have a slightly purple trunk. Buds are also welcome.

Peppers and eggplants before planting:

Leeks before planting:

1. Very shallow or, conversely, deep seeding.
2. Leave plants that have hatched with a “cap”; they will not produce great harvest. If it’s a pity to throw away such plants, then you need to remove the cap, after wetting it.
3. If the seeds are placed too often in the box, they should be placed so that they can be easily picked, that is, at a distance of 2.5-3.5 cm from each other.
4. Insufficient lighting, warm air - contributes to the stretching of seedlings. This also includes excessive early sowing, when all nature is still “sleeping” (January - the first half of February for peppers and eggplants, all of February for tomatoes).

Severely overgrown tomato seedlings in mid-May (planted in January):

1. Excessive watering or, conversely, irregular watering.
2. Do not protect the plants from a strong draft, so the plants “get cold” from the hypothermia of the soil.
3. They often touch the plants and dig up those that have not sprouted to see if they have all sprouted. You can control the crops, but then sow taking into account the percentage of germination. This is approximately 50-90% for different varieties and crops.
4. Watering unsettled tap water- there will be an accumulation of salts in the soil, a coating on the surface.
5. Excessive or insufficient hardening.
6. Closely spaced cups prevent the foliage from receiving enough sun. The crowns of plants should not be in close contact.

Plant marigolds in a beautiful pot at the beginning of March; 4-5 seeds will be enough. The flowers will grow quickly and will delight you while caring for the seedlings.

You can also play around with growing indoor tomatoes. The container after the second pick should be large, about 3-5 liters. Of course, there won’t be many fruits, but this is just to lift your spirits. Sowing can be done in early February or March, picking and everything else is done in the same way as for ordinary tomatoes. There are different varieties of indoor tomatoes, I found only “Florida Petit” on sale, I liked the results.

Florida Petite tomatoes in mid-May (planted in early February):

I also tried to grow a cucumber on a windowsill, but I didn’t get any fruit from those planted in December, the plant only produced flowers and 1-2 cm of fruit bud, then everything dried up. But from the “Libelle F1” planted in March, cucumbers grew, although they were very small, about the size of an adult’s little finger, and there were only 5-6 of them.

Libelle cucumbers in mid-May (planted in early March):

Landing vegetable plants for seedlings - a procedure that all gardeners living in temperate climates face. Without this, it is impossible to harvest a rich harvest, especially for crops with a long growing season. Despite the fact that growing seedlings looks like a straightforward, simple task, this process requires certain knowledge and skills.

What plants are sown for seedlings

The feasibility of growing seedlings is determined by the fact that seedlings are less susceptible to such harmful factors, like bad weather or pest attack. Seedlings are not so easy to “suppress” weeds; they provide an earlier harvest. In addition, in cool areas with a short summer period, plants with a long growing season can only be grown using seedlings. The following crops are planted in this way:

• pepper;
• eggplant;
• pumpkin;
• celery (root);
• parsley;
• cauliflower, white cabbage, Chinese cabbage;
• squash, zucchini;
• cucumbers;
• basil;
• chard;
• lemon balm;
• marjoram;
• hyssop;
• tarragon, etc.

What and when to plant

What seedlings are planted in January? During the first month of the year, gardeners carry out pre-sowing and preparatory work, which includes preparing the soil and containers for planting, purchasing, sorting seeds, and checking their germination. In the last ten days of January (from about the 20th-21st), you can sow early cucumbers for a greenhouse on a windowsill at home.

Sowing seeds in February is suitable for root celery (early in the month). From the 10th, eggplant and pepper seeds are planted. Around the same time, you can sow greenhouse tomato seedlings. From the third ten days of February, seedlings of chard, basil, and parsley begin to be grown on the windowsill. At the end of winter, in addition, gardeners plant seeds of early cucumbers.

March plantings involve the use of white cabbage, cauliflower and tomato seeds. The latter, like leeks or Bell pepper, it is allowed to sow in the first ten days of the month. Cabbage is planted a little later, around March 11-15. Sowing of vegetable crops is completed in mid-spring. What do Russian summer residents plant in April? In the first half of the month, seeds of marjoram, lemon balm, lettuce, tarragon, hyssop, and basil are sown. The first 2 decades of April are the ideal time to plant seedlings of zucchini, pumpkin, and squash. From the middle of the month, cucumbers are grown for the ground.

Favorable days for planting seedlings in 2018

The time for sowing seedlings depends on many factors, including weather conditions, territorial location of the site, days of the lunar cycle, etc. Let's consider each of them in more detail:

1. Climate. This key factor to determine when to plant seedlings in 2018. The easiest way to navigate is according to V. I. Kuznetsov’s scheme, the method of which is based on 2 main terms - “Cold” and “Warmth”. The cold season of sowing seedlings is the stage when cold-resistant crops (early cabbage, etc.) are planted in open ground, and heat-loving tomatoes, eggplants, peppers, and cucumbers are planted in closed soil (greenhouses and greenhouses). The warm sowing period is the time determined by the date of the end of the last frost. It is suitable for planting seedlings of heat-loving plants in open ground.
2. Territorial placement. Each region is located in one or another climate zone. Depending on the latter it varies favorable time for sowing seeds for seedlings.
3. Moon calendar. The basic principle of planting is this: after the new moon, you need to plant crops with above-ground fruits, and after the full moon, root crops are sown. If you follow this principle, each month the vegetable grower will have 13-15 days to plant a specific plant. At the same time, on the day of the full moon and the 2 days closest to it, you should not plant anything. During the new moon and the next couple of days it is not recommended to sow root crops, but for plants with above-ground fruit growth this time is considered ideal.

Dates for planting vegetable seedlings - table

Based climatic conditions, specific to your region, the time when to plant seeds varies. Below are the average periods favorable for sowing vegetable crops. The data offered is approximate, for more precise definition during sowing time, it is recommended to try the method countdown(the germination period of seeds of specific plants is taken into account).

Type of culture	Southern regions	Central Black Earth	Middle lane	Siberia, Ural	Far East
Eggplant			Third ten days of March
White cabbage
					Early March (until the 15th)
			Beginning of May (until the 10th)		Beginning of April (until the 15th)
Tomatoes

Table for sowing flowers for seedlings

The movement of juices and other processes in plants are closely related to the lunar cycle. This is due to light and electromagnetic impulses perceived by colors. The actions of the gardener, coordinated with these processes, can significantly increase the yield and duration of flowering of crops. Below, a table for planting seedlings is offered for gardeners, which will allow you to find out about favorable days for sowing.

	Favorable days
September

When to plant pepper seedlings

For this crop, only the seedling method of cultivation is suitable, since the period between the appearance of the first shoots and fruiting of pepper is long (takes 120-150 days). The plant is transplanted into open ground when it is 60-80 days old and the first buds appear on the bush. The time to plant pepper comes when the ambient temperature is 6-10 degrees at night and 12-15 during the day. At the same time, the soil has time to thaw and warm up to an optimal state suitable for planting crops.

It is better that pepper seedlings are planted not in January, but in February or early March. To determine the timing of sowing seedlings, it is necessary to take into account that the crop is moved into open ground 50-70 days after sowing, when the first buds appear. A couple of weeks earlier, the sprouts can be planted in a greenhouse, while the seeds for seedlings are planted in early February. If you want to plant peppers in January, young seedlings must be provided with additional lighting using phytolamps in order to increase the daily duration of daylight exposure to the plant.

When subsequently planting sprouts in a greenhouse, it is necessary to provide them with additional heating in May, when there are still frosts at night and low temperatures. This is important because pepper is a very heat-loving plant that needs protection from the cold. Favorable days when to plant seedlings in 2018 are:

• January 20-21;
• January 25-26;
• January 29.

Planting tomatoes

Tomatoes require sowing as seedlings, since this is a southern heat-loving crop, and this growing method makes it possible to obtain a harvest in a short summer. This explains why tomatoes in Russia are not sown with seeds. Tomato seedlings are planted at home in certain days, calculated according to the Lunar calendar and taking into account weather conditions. Tomatoes are planted in open ground after 45-60 days of growth, when the stems have reached a height of 20-30 cm, have 5-7 leaves and a flower vine.

Knowing the weather conditions of your area of ​​residence, you can approximately predict when in the spring the soil will warm up to 12-15 degrees and the risk of return frosts will disappear. Approximately 65 days are taken from this time to determine the date for planting tomatoes. The time to plant tomato seedlings in 2018 depends on the region: the timing varies from April in the south of the country to early June in the north. For gardeners from central Russia, the best time for planting is May.

A couple of weeks before the planned planting of tomatoes in open ground, the seedlings begin to harden by taking them outside: at first the “walks” are short, then the time the plants spend on the street is increased, accustoming them to straight sun rays. Before planting tomatoes in a summer cottage, the soil is loosened and moistened. When planting sprouts in the holes, as a rule, add mineral fertilizers(feeding includes all microelements necessary for the crop).

It is better to plant tomatoes on a warm, cloudy day, and it is advisable to provide them with shading for the first few days. Between the bushes of low-growing varieties, 30 cm should be left, while the gaps between the rows are 70 cm. For tall plants, more space is required: at least 60 cm should remain between the bushes, and the intervals between the rows should be 130-140 cm. Planted tomatoes are pressed with earth , moisturize, mulch with sand, sawdust, peat.

Sowing eggplants

To obtain a rich harvest, it is important to observe the timing of sowing the seeds of the plant. Since eggplant is a heat-loving crop, it is easier to grow it through seedlings. Seed preparation includes:

1. Testing for suitability (germination). To do this, they are placed in a bag and warm water for a day, then taken out and left in a warm place for 5 days, constantly moistening the fabric. If five out of ten seeds germinate, the material is suitable for sowing.
2. Treatment. The seed is dipped in a strong solution of potassium permanganate for half an hour, then washed with water.
3. Feeding. Dissolve 1 tsp in a liter of water. wood ash or nitrophoska, where the seeds are placed for a day.
4. Germination. The prepared seed is placed on a saucer for a couple of days until it hatches.

It should be 60 days before planting the crop in a permanent place. In the Moscow region, the appropriate time is mid-February - early March. The best yield is obtained if the seedlings are 70-80 days old by the time of planting. Sowing the seeds of the crop is allowed only in a moderately moist substrate. In wet soil there is not enough oxygen, so the sprouted sprouts will die. Sowing in boxes is carried out with germinated seeds in rows with an interval of 10 cm between them and to a depth of 0.5 cm.

After being introduced into the soil, the seeds are sprinkled with a thin layer of loose soil. They germinate after 2 weeks at a temperature of at least 23 degrees. The optimal time for sowing is:

• February 19, 20, 27, 28;
• March 18, 19, 27, 28;
• April 23, 24.

It should be taken into account that eggplants have a longer growing season (even early ripening ones) than other crops. It is better to plant them earlier than tomatoes or peppers. After germination, the box is placed on a well-lit windowsill for a week ( optimal temperature– from 14 to 16 degrees). This is necessary for the seedlings to stretch out and the roots to become stronger. Picking is carried out after the appearance of 2-3 leaves. Afterwards, the plants are planted in peat pots or other containers, deepening them to the cotyledon leaves.

When to sow cabbage

Not all purchased peat mixtures are suitable for this vegetable, since cabbage loves acidic soils. It is better to prepare the substrate for cabbage yourself by mixing turf soil with good humus 1:1 and adding ½ cup of wood ash (the amount is indicated per bucket of substrate). The ash will enrich the soil with the necessary components and prevent the appearance of blackleg in seedlings.

It is important to choose the right time for planting cabbage seeds; it depends on the time of planting it in the ground. Many summer residents plant 45-60-day-old sprouts of early cabbage crops on the site at the end of April, so seedlings should be sown in mid-February or early March. So early dates planting is dictated by the climate characteristic of the southern and central regions of Russia: in May, the heat inhibits the development of the crop, so it is important that the plant is in favorable conditions for as long as possible (at moderate temperatures and high humidity air).

If it is possible to plant cabbage under temporary shelter, seedlings are sown earlier. Late varieties of vegetables are often grown without picking, so their seedling period is reduced to 30-45 days. Favorable days for sowing cabbage in 2018 are the following:

• February 5-8, 19-22;
• March 7, 8, 18, 20, 21;
• April 4-6, 8-10, 20-23;
• May 8, 12, 19-24.

The seeds are pre-treated, for which they need to be soaked in water heated to 50 degrees, and after 5 minutes transferred to a container with cold water. Thanks to this procedure, the seeds are treated against pathogenic fungi and other bacteria. A few days before planting the plant, water the soil in the seedling box. When sowing, grooves 1.5 cm deep are formed (the optimal interval between them is 3-4 cm) and moistened. After placing the seeds in the ground, the beds are filled with soil mixture, its surface is slightly compacted.

The boxes are covered with film/glass and placed in a warm place. Seeds begin to germinate when low temperatures, but in the warmth the sprouts are more friendly and develop faster. It is not recommended to water the soil before germination: the seeds have enough pre-sowing moisture reserves. The emerging seedlings should immediately find a cool, actively lit place (balcony, loggia, veranda), where the temperature, even during the day, remains at 8-10 degrees Celsius.

Cucumber planting dates

This is a capricious and demanding plant that requires compliance with the rules of agricultural technology and taking into account calendar changes and weather conditions. When purchasing seed (you can buy it either in a specialized store or by ordering it in an online store), you must pay attention to the manufacturer’s information about this product, since cucumbers are sown at different times depending on the variety. If you ignore this fact, the seedlings may outgrow.

Different varieties have excellent fruit ripening times. For the early ones, 40-55 days are enough, for the mid-season ones – 55-60 days, and for the late ones – more than 2 months. So, to determine the time when it is best to plant cucumbers, it is worth adding 3-5 days to the specified time. Taking this into account, we can conclude that early varieties of vegetables in a temperate climate zone should be sown from mid-May, late varieties - at the end of April. It is optimal to plant mid-season cucumbers in early May. Favorable days for sowing in 2018:

• February 16-18, 21, 22, 25, 26;
• March 20-21, 24-26;
• April 17, 18, 21, 22, 27, 28;
• May 18, 19, 24-26;
• June 14, 15, 21-22.

The soil for sowing the plant should be nutritious and light, since cucumbers need regular watering to prevent stagnation of liquid and subsequent rotting of the roots. It is better to grow the vegetable in the one offered by specialized stores, or prepare the substrate yourself by mixing the same amount:

• peat or leaf soil;
• turf land;
• sawdust;
• humus.

Three days before, it is recommended to disinfect the soil with the drug “Pervikur” (10 ml of product per 7 liters of water). Plants are watered with the prepared solution in order to avoid root rot during seed germination. Since cucumbers form a superficial root system with multiple thin shoots, when growing the crop, you need to plant the seeds in different containers. Acceptable types of containers in which vegetables can be planted are:

• plastic cassettes (consist of individual cells interconnected, some are equipped with lids and a tray, easily cut with scissors if necessary);
• small cardboard cups (ideal for growing cucumber seedlings, as they allow plants to be planted without releasing the roots from the container, but require an additional tray for watering due to the rapid evaporation of moisture);
• peat tablets(they include all the substances necessary for the development of the plant, but the container quickly becomes too small for the sprouts, so they are transplanted into a larger container);
• plastic cups (drainage holes must be formed by hand; when planting, the containers are cut with scissors without damaging the root system.

When there is about a month left before planting, the seeds should be placed near a heating device to warm up - this will ensure friendly shoots and the absence of barren flowers in the future. Afterwards, soak the seeds in water with nitro and ash for the whole day. Rinse the seed and wrap it in a damp cloth to swell, leaving for 2 days. To ensure that plants are not afraid of temperature changes and are hardy, place the swollen seeds in the refrigerator for a day (the freezer is not suitable). If you are planting hybrids, you do not need to do the last step.

Video

Even beginner gardeners have every chance to achieve results no worse than experienced gardeners. To do this, you must adhere to the timing of sowing seeds for seedlings, having first selected the right planting material and preparing the container and soil.

Each garden crop has its own characteristics, so you need to know when to plant the seeds of peppers, tomatoes, cucumbers or eggplants. Everyone's favorite dahlias, petunias and geraniums also have their own sowing dates, which determine the timeliness and duration of their decorative period.

Moon phases and their influence on the timing of seed sowing

Contrary to many opinions, you should start planting seeds for seedlings immediately after New Year's holidays. Since the planting season begins in January, it is very important not to miss anything.

There are several criteria by which you can determine the exact timing of sowing seeds for seedlings. Such information will be especially useful when growing new flower crops or varieties of vegetables.

Beneficial and negative influence of the moon on various cultures

The moon influences the development of all plants on the planet. Many processes occurring at the cellular level depend on one state or another. The most favorable phase for planting seedlings is the waxing moon. During this period, plants begin to actively develop, metabolism and sap movement increase. In the waxing phase of the moon, it’s time to plant seeds for seedlings in order to get friendly shoots and healthy sprouts.

It is not recommended to sow anything during the full moon or during the waning phase of the moon. During these periods, it is better to care for already growing plants, hill them up and feed them. The most unfavorable period for all living things is the new moon, the day before it and the day after it. During these three days, it is better not to touch the plants at all, so as not to deprive them of vitality and energy. Planting anything is also not recommended.

Thus, the most unfavorable phases of the moon for the beginning of the planting season are the new moon and the full moon.

Planting seeds for seedlings according to the lunar calendar in 2017

• January - 1, 2, 11, 12, 13, 27, 28, 29;
• February - 4, 10, 11, 12 and 24, 25, 26, 27;
• March - 5, 11, 12, 13 and 20, 23, 24, 25, 27, 28;
• April - 10, 11, 12, 19 and 20, 21, 25, 26.

When to start planting seeds for seedlings

Each variety and type of plant has its own planting and planting dates, which depend on the length of the growing season, and must be indicated on the package with seeds. If you are harvesting yourself, or a neighbor shared planting material with you from last year’s harvest, you will have to calculate the time for planting seedlings yourself.

Development from seed planting to the first leaves takes 1.5-2 months for some crops, and 5 or more for others. Plants with a long period of “black soil” begin to be planted in seedling boxes in January, and fast-growing ones - in March or even April.

• growing season plants;
• time of planting in the ground.

By adding the first value to the second value, you get the approximate time for sowing seedlings. Next, after checking the lunar calendar for 2017, you can begin planting.

When to sow vegetable seeds for seedlings

In order to timely plant plants in the ground with long period For germination, it is necessary to begin preparing seedlings in January. The start of work depends on the crops and their varieties.

What vegetables to plant in January

In January, it is necessary to choose late-ripening varieties of vegetables with the longest growing season. In the second half of the month there comes a time when you can start planting pepper seeds for seedlings.

• Lumina;
• Ivanhoe;
• Triton;
• Bell;
• Lisa.

Suitable varieties:

• tomatoes - Cosmonaut, Yellow date, Cherry.
• blue ones - King of the North F1, Nutcracker F1, black handsome.

What seeds to sow in February for seedlings

• tomatoes: De Barao, RIO GRAND, Supergiant F1;
• eggplant: Quarte, Nancy, Lilac mist;
• cucumbers: Secret, Brownie F1, Phoenix.

What seeds to sow in March for seedlings

In the first ten days of March, namely the 3rd or 7th-8th, you can start with early ripening tomatoes, the development period of seedlings before planting in the soil is 40-45 days.

The following varieties are suitable for this: Mandarin, Alpha F1, Superstar, Golden Brush, Cupid F1, Aphrodite. These seedlings are only suitable for planting in a greenhouse. For open ground - planting after the twentieth.

In the second half of March, a favorable phase of the moon begins, when you should plant seeds of colored and white cabbage for seedlings, sweet peppers, onions and radishes. March 17, 22 and 30 are ideal for melons and legumes.

Many people are accustomed to buying planting material already in the form of ready-made seedlings. For example, onion- small bulbs (onion sets), which are immediately planted in open ground. It is much more economical to germinate them yourself. Packaging seeds will cost you much less than ready-made seedlings.

What vegetables to sow in April

In the first days of April (4,5 and 6) you can start growing early ripening cucumbers, which in a month can be planted in a greenhouse. These include the following varieties: April F1, German F1, Kustovoy, Zozulya, Sphinx, Benefit F1, Orlik F1.

At the beginning of April, you can already store seedlings in boxes in the greenhouse itself. This will gradually prepare the young shoots for new conditions. But you should carefully monitor the temperature at night, as there is still a high probability of frost.

Flowers and berries: when to plant seeds for seedlings

Choose flower varieties that have an early and long flowering period. You don’t need to purchase many species; 4-6 crops will be enough, and your flower beds will be fragrant with aromas and delight you with bright colors in the summer.

Sowing seeds for seedlings in January

In the first ten days of January, namely on the 7th, the period of sowing flowers begins. The longest growing season for these species: Begonia, Lobenia, Turkish clove, Heliotrope. The germination period of these crops is from 2 to 4 weeks, and the first flowers will appear after 5.5-6 months.

January 21 and 25 - better days according to the lunar calendar, when is it especially good to plant petunia seeds for seedlings. These flowers will decorate your garden throughout the summer.

Among the berry crops, strawberries and strawberries are planted in January. Early boarding will allow you to grow strong seedlings, and spring bushes are usually weak and take longer to develop.

The second half of January is the most suitable period when sowing strawberry seeds. To obtain good harvest berries must be chosen the best varieties remontant strawberries: Desna, Bereginya, Gigantella, Maxi, Carpathian beauty. Strawberry seeds should also be planted in January.

The most favorable days: from 3-4, 10-11, January, as well as 30 and 31. The following varieties are very popular remontant strawberries: Queen Elizabeth 2, Temptation, Albion, Moscow delicacy. If the seedlings are planted in a heated greenhouse, then sowing can be done at any time of the year, but be sure to take into account the lunar calendar for planting seeds for seedlings.

Dates for planting seeds for seedlings in February

Lavender, Viola and Salvia have a growing season of up to 5 months, so sowing should be done in mid-February. Then, in June-July you will be able to enjoy the beautiful view of your favorite flowers. There is no exact answer to the question: when to sow Geranium (Pelargonium) seeds. Depends on when you want to plant it in the ground. Favorable days of the month: February 3, 4 or 7 and 8.

When to sow seeds for seedlings in March

This month in central Russia and southern regions The active summer season has already begun. Annual flowers with a short growing season are sown in March or April, but it is not recommended to plant them in the soil before the 20th of May.

March 7-8 is best time When can you plant Dahlia seeds? Around these days, seedlings of the following types of flowers begin to grow: Echinacea, Alyssum, Iberis, Coleus, Bluebells, Herbal carnation, Violet, Phlox and Matthiola. Each of them has its own sowing characteristics and timing.

Planting at the beginning of the month or at the end makes a difference for seedlings. Therefore, it is necessary to carefully study the information on the packaging and adhere to exact deadlines. Permissible deviations in the sowing date can be no more than 10 days, then the sprout will not lag behind in development, and the period of its decorative effect will be maximum.

Planting seeds for seedlings video

Gardener's secrets about preparing and planting seeds

• Preparing containers and soil for seeds for seedlings
• How to choose and when to sow seedlings
• When and what flowers to plant for seedlings in 2017, according to the lunar calendar
• How to grow strawberry seedlings from seeds in peat tablets

Bottom line

Knowing the growing season of a particular crop or variety, you can independently calculate the approximate time for sowing seeds for seedlings, and the lunar calendar will tell you which days you need to plant and which days it is better to avoid.

Many garden crops in the middle zone are grown through seedlings, otherwise the plants do not have time to produce a full harvest. Growing seedlings is an important stage; at this time, the future harvest is laid, which is why it is so important to sow the seeds correctly and create for the plants good conditions. Find out all the secrets of growing seedlings from our article.

Most heat-loving plants with a long flowering and fruiting period are grown in seedlings. In conditions middle zone such plants do not have time to fully grow, bloom and bear fruit during the warm season.

TO heat-loving plants grown by seedlings include:

• , And ;
• and zucchini;
• melons - pumpkin, watermelon and melon;
• varietal potatoes from seeds.

For getting early harvest All types of cabbage are grown through seedlings - white and red cabbage, cauliflower, broccoli, Brussels sprouts and kohlrabi. You can grow seedlings and root vegetables - beets, radishes and daikon.

Two-year-old and perennials to achieve flowering or fruiting in one year. Cold-resistant plants grown in seedlings include nigella and leeks, celery, and parsnips. Some are also sown for seedlings spices- basil, lemon balm, thyme and oregano.

Crops with sensitive root systems are best grown in separate containers. These include peppers and eggplants, pickled tomatoes, cucumbers and all melons, as well as some types of flowers.

The volume of seedling cups and cassettes is selected depending on the crop:

• tomatoes, peppers and eggplants – 200-350 ml;
• cucumbers, watermelons and melons – 200-300 ml;
• pumpkins, zucchini, squash - 250-400 ml;
• spicy herbs, leeks and nigella – 70-150 ml;
• flowers with small seeds – 100-200 ml;
• flowers with large seeds – 200-300 ml.

Disposable glasses are often used as seedling containers. They are inexpensive, have different volumes and convenient shapes. However, the durability of such cups is low; they usually only last for one season. Using disposable glasses It is necessary to make drainage holes in their bottoms.

Another option is peat cups. They are made from pressed peat mixture, which decomposes in the ground in one season. The seedlings are planted directly in the glass without damaging its roots. Peat cups are usually used for plants with a delicate root system - peppers, cucumbers, pumpkins.

Note! The soil in peat cups dries out faster, and when overfilled, their walls get wet and collapse. Therefore, watering should be regular, but moderate.

Video - Features of planting seedlings in peat cups in the ground

You can also use dense bags of the same size for seedlings, for example, milk bags. They are convenient because you can roll up the bag when planting, and as the seedlings grow, gradually roll it out and add soil. This technique is useful for plants that grow additional roots when buried - for example, tomatoes or flowers.

It is better to germinate seeds under film or glass - this creates a greenhouse effect, the soil remains moist and warm, and sprouts appear faster. Convenient for germinating seeds with removable transparent lids. You can make a greenhouse yourself from transparent disposable containers.

Before planting seeds and picking, reusable seedling containers must be washed warm water with laundry soap and rinse clean water. Using wooden boxes It is recommended to disinfect them with a solution of copper sulfate or bleach.

Seed preparation

Pre-sowing preparation allows you to reject empty seeds, disinfect them and speed up germination. Preparation of seeds for different cultures carried out in different ways, the main stages necessary for all garden crops are described below.

Step 1. To select the largest and full-weight seeds, calibration is carried out. You can make it at home in two ways - manually and by soaking in a saline solution. The first method is suitable for plants with large seeds - pumpkins, zucchini, cucumbers. For calibration in saline solution, medium and small seeds are more suitable (such as tomatoes, peppers, eggplants, onions and most flowers).

The seeds are manually calibrated using a checkered sheet or ruler. Place the seeds on a flat surface or a sheet of paper and wipe off the largest, smoothest and densest ones. All seeds are discarded irregular shape, as well as empty and too small.

For calibration in solution 1 tablespoon table salt stir in a glass warm water, then drop the seeds there for 15-30 minutes. The floating seeds are removed, and those that have settled to the bottom are washed and dried.

Note! Viable seeds can also float if they are dry. If there are a lot of such seeds, you need to check their germination in a small batch.

Step 2. Seed disinfection is carried out in several stages. For bacterial infections, seeds are treated with a solution of potassium permanganate at a concentration of 1 g per 1 liter of water. Stir the crystals until completely dissolved and pour the seeds into a small bowl. Keep in the solution for 20 minutes.

Treatment in a solution of potassium permanganate

You can use a 3% hydrogen peroxide solution. It is heated in a water bath to a temperature of +38-40 degrees and the seeds are poured in for 10 minutes.

Processing in hydrogen peroxide

Step 3. Treatment against fungal infections is the second stage of seed disinfection. It is carried out in fungicides - antifungal drugs. They can be either in the form of a solution or in powder. At home, the most commonly used drug of natural origin is Fitosporin-M. It is available in powder, paste or liquid form. Dilute the drug as indicated on the package and pour in the seeds for 2-3 hours.

Seed treatment with Fitosporin-M

Step 4. Surface treatment does not help against viral diseases, so the seeds are heated with dry heat for 5-7 days, hung in fabric bags on a radiator.

For accelerated processing, you can place the seeds in water at a temperature of +50-60 degrees for 1-2 hours. It is more convenient to do this in a thermos, where the water does not cool down longer.

Step 5. Immediately before planting, the seeds are treated in a solution of growth stimulants, these include Epin, Zircon, solutions of potassium and sodium humates, aloe juice and other natural preparations. The solution is prepared according to the recommendations on the package and poured into the seeds. Treatment time depends on the drug and can be 1-24 hours.

Step 6. After treatment with stimulants, the seeds are soaked in water and left in a warm place to swell. Soaking is necessary to soften the seed shell and speed up its germination.

Soaking time depends on the size and density of the seeds:

• tomatoes, peppers, eggplants – 3-4 hours;
• cabbage – 3-4 hours;
• cucumbers, melons – 12 hours;
• leeks and chives – 12 hours;
• pumpkin, zucchini, watermelon - 24 hours.

This process can be accelerated by bubbling - treating seeds in water with air bubbles. For bubbling, an aquarium compressor is used, its tube is lowered into a jar with soaked seeds and the device is turned on. The soaking time can be halved. It is better to place the seeds in gauze bags.

Step 7 After soaking, the seeds can be planted in the ground or germinated by wrapping them in a damp soft cloth or gauze. The seeds are germinated at the temperature recommended for this crop until they peck and sprouts appear. The fabric should be constantly damp. It is important not to miss this moment and not to allow the roots to grow into the tissue - it will be difficult to get the seeds out of there without damaging the roots.

Germination can be combined with hardening. Seeds wrapped in cloth on a saucer are placed in the refrigerator at a temperature of +2-4 degrees overnight. Seeds of plants intended for planting in open ground can be subjected to cyclic temperature changes: put in the refrigerator at night and kept at room temperature during the day. In this mode, they are hardened for two or three days, after which they are removed to a warm place until germination.

Note! Seeds with fragile roots, for example, cucumbers and all pumpkins, are best planted immediately after pecking.

Sowing and germination of seeds

Crops that lend themselves well to picking can be sown in common seedling boxes for germination; these include:

• tomatoes and eggplants;
• leeks and chives;
• all types of cabbage;
• flowers with medium-sized seeds - marigolds, asters, zinnias, dahlias.

Plants with a delicate and fragile root system do not tolerate picking; it is better to immediately plant them in separate cups or seedling trays of the appropriate size. As they grow, they are transferred to larger individual containers.

These crops include:

• cucumbers and all pumpkin varieties;
• sweet and hot peppers;
• roots;
• flowers with large seeds.

Step 1. Seedling containers are filled with soil suitable for the given crop. Lightly compact it and make grooves or indentations. Water with settled water, and if soil disinfection is required, with a weak solution of potassium permanganate. Allow water to soak in and moisten the soil well.

Step 2. Pre-treated seeds are placed into the recesses by hand or using tweezers; small seeds are conveniently placed with a toothpick.

Step 3. The grooves or depressions are sprinkled with a layer of soil on top. There is no need to water additionally - the moisture absorbed into the soil will be enough to nourish the roots, while at the same time air access to the seeds will be ensured through the top loose layer.

Step 4. The containers are covered cling film and put in a warm place. Light is not needed for seed germination, with the exception of small flower seeds that are sown superficially, without covering them with soil.

Step 5. Immediately after the loops appear, you need to remove the film and place the containers with seedlings in a well-lit place. It is advisable to provide additional lighting with fluorescent or LED lamps. In the first days, in the phase of cotyledon leaves, seedlings can be illuminated for 16-18 hours a day - this will help them not to stretch out. After the appearance of real leaves, daylight hours are gradually reduced to the norm for this crop.

Note! If the seedlings have stretched out in the cotyledon leaf phase, it is necessary to add soil to the level of the cotyledons.

Picking and transshipment

Seedlings are usually picked at the stage of 2-3 true leaves. Later, the root system grows greatly and is damaged during picking. Transshipment of seedlings from glasses and seedling cassettes into larger containers is carried out as the root system grows.

Step 1. Prepare seedling cups or cassettes and fill them with pre-prepared soil approximately 2/3 when picking and 1/2 when transferring. Water the soil and allow it to be evenly moistened. If necessary, disinfect with a solution of potassium permanganate.

Step 2. Gently pry up the sprout with a small spatula or wooden stick. They are taken out together with the earthen lump, being careful not to damage the root system. It is better to hold the sprout by the leaves, and not by the stem - if the leaves are damaged, the plant will quickly recover, and a broken stem will lead to death. For tomatoes, cabbage and onions, pinch off the central root by 1/3.

Step 3. A depression is made in the ground along the length and width of the earthen clod. Carefully place the sprout there and add soil. Compact and lightly water. When planting tomatoes, cabbage and cucumbers, the sprout is buried down to the cotyledons; peppers and eggplants are not buried.

Step 4. When transferring it into a larger container, carefully remove the seedling, place it in a larger glass and add soil around it. If necessary, deepen. Lightly water and compact the soil.

Step 5. In the first few days after transshipment and picking, plants need to be provided diffuse light and moderately moist soil. As soon as the root system adapts, the seedlings will begin to grow.

Note! Some flowers, for example, lobelia, plant several seedlings into one seedling glass.

Watering seedlings

From proper watering a lot depends - when the earthen clod dries out, the seedlings stop growing and wither, and if they are overwatered, they can get fungal infections. It is better to water the seedlings with soft water - rain, melt or settled water - with the addition of a small amount of humates.

Getting melt water at home is quite simple: pour tap water into any container, let it sit for 24 hours and put it in the freezer. The water begins to freeze from the edges of the container. As soon as it freezes by about 2/3 of the volume, it is taken out, the unfrozen part of the water is drained - it contains all the dissolved elements. The remaining ice is thawed and used to water the seedlings.

In the first stage of cultivation, before the true leaves appear, the seedlings are watered very carefully so as not to damage the fragile sprouts. This can be done from a small watering can or spray bottle set to a small spray angle. The seedlings are watered at the root.

After picking, as the vegetative mass develops, the seedlings are watered less frequently, but more abundantly, until the earthen clod is wetted. It is important to avoid stagnation of water and allow the top layer of soil to dry out between waterings.

Note! It is not advisable to water the seedlings for the first 3-5 days after picking! Frail roots may rot.

Fertilizing seedlings

Fertilizing is carried out as planned or when signs of nutrient deficiency appear. Before the true leaves appear, the sprout uses up the supply of nutrients contained in the seed. After the first true leaf appears, the active development of the root system begins and the plant can absorb micro- and macroelements from the soil.

There are many recipes for fertilizers containing organic and mineral substances, but the easiest way is to buy a complex fertilizer for seedlings. It can be both universal and specially adapted to the needs of different cultures.

Fertilizers for seedlings are available in various forms:

• liquid concentrate;
• water-soluble granules;
• powder.

A good fertilizer for seedlings contains:

• nitrogen (N);
• potassium (K);
• phosphorus (P);
• trace elements in chelated form.

The exact dosage and schedule for feeding seedlings is always indicated by the fertilizer manufacturer on the packaging. If there is no such information on the package or bottle of fertilizer, it is better to refrain from using it.

Before picking, seedlings usually have enough nutrients contained in fertile soil. 7-10 days after picking or transplanting, you can start feeding. Fertilizer in dissolved form is applied with morning watering. If the earthen clod dries out too much, you must first moisten it moderately with clean water, and only then apply fertilizing. The second and subsequent fertilizing with complex fertilizer is carried out 7-10 days after the previous one until the seedlings are planted.

Extraordinary feeding is needed when obvious signs of a lack of elements appear. They can be identified by the appearance of the seedlings.

The reasons for the lack of elements, as well as the methods for replenishing them, are different; they are described in the table shown in the figure. Sometimes it is enough to change the lighting mode or temperature so that the plant can absorb nutrients from the soil.

Note! It is not advisable to use it to fertilize young seedlings. organic fertilizers– their composition is unstable, so it is difficult to calculate the dosage.

Growing seedlings in peat tablets

Plants with a particularly delicate root system, as well as valuable flower seeds in granular form, are more convenient to grow in. The tablets consist of sterile peat soil that is highly permeable to water and air.

When dry, their height is 1-2 cm, the diameter can vary. After swelling in water, the height of the tablets increases 6-8 times, this is quite enough for the root system of most crops in the first phase of growing seedlings.

Below is step-by-step technology planting granulated petunia seeds in peat tablets. Other crops are grown in the same way.

Step 1. Prepare tablets for seedlings. To do this, place them in a plastic container close to each other. Pour a small amount of water into the container, wait for the tablets to absorb it, and then add a new portion. This is repeated until the tablets stop absorbing water, after which the excess is drained.

Step 2. The seeds are carefully placed into the recess at the top of each tablet. When sowing very small seeds, for example, lobelia, several pieces are placed in each tablet. If the recess is not large enough, it is widened or deepened with a toothpick.

Step 3. When sowing granulated seeds, it is necessary to moisten their shell until completely wet, otherwise they will not germinate. The most convenient way to do this is with a spray bottle, pipette or rubber bulb.

Step 4. The seeds are covered with a small amount of soil on top, spreading it with a toothpick. You can simply drown the seeds slightly into the tablet.

Step 5. The grown seedlings are transplanted into pots half filled with fertile soil.

Step 6. Further care caring for seedlings does not differ from conventional growing technology and includes watering, fertilizing and other necessary operations.

Note! Seedlings with a short growing season can be planted in the ground directly in tablets, bypassing the stage of transplanting into a pot.

Growing seedlings in "snails"

One of the original ways to get strong seedlings ready for picking is to grow them in “snails” made of foamed polyethylene. The latter is used as a substrate for laminate or as film thermal insulation. Strips of this material are rolled up along with a thin layer of soil in which the seeds are placed. As a result, a “snail” is formed, inside which excellent conditions for the development of seedlings.

Growing seedlings in "snails"

Advantages of the method:

• saving space and soil;
• optimal conditions for seed germination;
• easy picking without damaging the roots.

Flaws:

• long process of sowing seeds;
• If the sprouts are not transplanted in time, they may die.

This way you can germinate most garden crops- nightshades, all types of cabbage and lettuce, as well as root vegetables. The “snail” is also suitable for germinating medium-sized flower seeds. The preparation of soil and seeds is carried out using the usual technology described above.

Step 1. Foamed polyethylene is cut into strips about 50 cm long and 10-12 cm wide. Lay out on a tray with one end facing you.

Step 2. Pour a few tablespoons of moderately moistened soil onto one end of the strip and level it.

Step 3. Place the prepared seeds at a distance of 2-3 cm from one edge. The distance between the seeds is 1-2 cm.

Step 4. Carefully begin to roll the tape from the end. Add the next portion of soil and sow the seeds. This continues until the end of the tape.

Formation of the "snail"

Step 5. The rolled up “snail” is secured with a rubber band. Place in a container with a depth of at least half its (“snail”) height. The seeds should be at the top edge of the “snail”.

Securing the snail

Step 6. Well moisten the soil inside the “snail” using a spray bottle. IN further watering can be carried out into a container - the moistened soil will absorb the moisture itself.

Step 7 Place a regular plastic bag over the container with the “snail” and tie it to create greenhouse conditions inside. Place in a warm, bright place until the seeds germinate. Once a day, open the bag for ventilation.

Creating greenhouse conditions

Step 8 Seed germination in “snails” usually occurs faster than in soil, due to stable temperature and humidity. It is necessary to monitor the appearance of loops in order to immediately place the seedlings in the most illuminated place.

Step 9 After germination until two true leaves appear, caring for seedlings does not differ from conventional technology. Due to the small amount of soil, the seedlings may not have enough nutrition, so add a little complex or humic seedling fertilizer to the water for irrigation, approximately 20% of the concentration recommended for feeding.

Step 10 When two true leaves appear on the sprouts, the “snail” is rolled out, the strongest seedlings are selected and dropped into cups using the usual technology or into “diapers” - we will discuss them below.

Picking seedlings from “snails”

Video - Growing seedlings in “snails”

Seedlings germinated in “snails” can be planted not only in glasses, but also in “diapers”. This method is also space and soil saving. In this case, ordinary packaging plastic bags are used as wrapping material.

Picking plants into “diapers” is performed using the technology given below.

Step 1. The plastic bag is spread on a tray. Prepare the soil - it should be moderately moist so that it does not crumble when squeezed in a fist.

Preparing the diaper bag

Step 2. A tablespoon of soil is poured onto one end of the “diaper”, closer to one edge. They level it out.

Step 3. A sprout taken from the “snail” is placed on top of the ground. To do this, the “snail” is slightly rolled out to free the root system along with the earthen lump. The sprout is placed so that the cotyledon leaves are above the edge of the film.

Step 4. Cover the top of the sprout with another tablespoon of soil, trim it (the soil) so that it does not spill out when wrapping it. The bottom edge is left free of soil to make it easier to roll up the film.

Step 5. Wrap the film, carefully compacting the soil around the root system. The bottom is folded so that the soil does not spill out and water does not flow out.

Step 6. The soil on the surface is leveled, compacted and topped up if necessary.

Step 7 Seedlings in a “diaper” are placed in a container, at the bottom of which sawdust is poured for absorption excess moisture. If the film unrolls, you can secure it with an elastic band.

Step 8 Water the seedlings at the root using a small watering can or rubber bulb. With this method of growing seedlings, it is better to fertilize with each watering, dissolving a small amount of fertilizer in the settled water.

You can grow not only picked seedlings in “diapers,” but also plants that do not tolerate picking well - cucumbers and zucchini, pumpkins, tribute and watermelons, as well as other vegetables and flowers with large seeds before planting in the ground. They are planted 2-3 seeds in pre-prepared “diapers”, watered and placed in a container, covered with a bag. After germination, the strongest sprout is left in each “diaper”.

Video – Picking peppers in “diapers”

The described general techniques for growing seedlings are suitable for almost all vegetable and flower crops, however, each plant needs a special regime and duration of cultivation, watering and fertilizing. Short description agricultural cultivation techniques different cultures shown in the figure.

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