When and how windows are installed in a log house. Technology for installing plastic windows in a timber house with your own hands Wooden windows in a timber house

When and how windows are installed in a log house.  Technology for installing plastic windows in a timber house with your own hands Wooden windows in a timber house
When and how windows are installed in a log house. Technology for installing plastic windows in a timber house with your own hands Wooden windows in a timber house

Installation of windows in a new timber house has its own specifics. In order for the work to be of the highest quality, it is important to choose the right material, as well as the timing of window installation. If everything is done correctly, the windows will serve you for many years, and the house will always be light and cozy.

Peculiarities

The main nuance work with wooden base is that this material is capable of changing its geometry and dimensions over time. Many are confident that if the frames are installed after shrinkage, deformation will not occur. However, walls made of timber can still “sag” slightly. This property is not so clearly manifested in structures made of laminated veneer lumber, which is why this material is becoming more and more popular. However, even if the subsidence is only a couple of millimeters per year, there is still a risk of deformation and destruction plastic double glazing.

For those who want to avoid problems with windows, but at the same time do not want to give up natural wood, there is a great solution.

To compensate for shrinkage, it is necessary to mount the window not in the opening, but in a frame fixed in a floating way (without fastening to the wall). Due to this, it is possible to eliminate the influence of deformation on the frame, and therefore on the window.

Kinds

Modern windows are divided into different types depending on the size, shape, material of manufacture and design features.

Single leaf

This option is not expensive at all. It is great for kitchens, hallways and similar small spaces.

Bivalve

This model is the most common. It is suitable for both apartments and private houses. The doors of the structure can open in a vertical or horizontal plane, which makes them even more practical and convenient.

Tricuspid

This type indispensable for houses made of timber or other materials with large rooms. Wide panoramic windows with three doors will become a real decoration of the living room or spacious bedroom.

The room will be very light, and you will not have to make additional openings in the walls.

Deaf

Such windows have the simplest design and low price because they are not designed to be opened or closed. Blind frames are perfect for ground floor or basement in one-story house. They can be rectangular, round and even triangular.

Depending on the material used, there are two main types of windows.

Wooden (regular and euro)

Such options are distinguished by their environmental friendliness, strength, durability, variety of configurations, and ease of repair. They have an attractive appearance and fit perfectly into the facade finished house. However, such models are much more expensive than their PVC counterparts. It is also worth considering that after five years of operation regular windows wooden structures will have to be constantly processed special compounds to prevent material rotting and cracks.

Frames for modern euro-windows are made of laminated veneer lumber, not solid wood. In this case, the wood fibers are located in different directions. Thanks to this, the structures become even stronger, more durable and more practical. Typically, wood species such as pine, larch, and oak are chosen for making windows.

Plastic

Such designs are distinguished by their affordable cost, tightness, high levels of sound and heat insulation, and a variety of designs. They are unpretentious in care, resistant to mechanical damage and adverse environmental impacts.

However, plastic cannot always fit into general form wooden building. In addition, this material does not allow air to pass through at all, and PVC structures cannot be repaired, so any scratches will remain on the profile forever.

Also, poorly installed plastic structures are significantly inferior to wooden ones in terms of thermal insulation.

How to choose?

When choosing a double-glazed window, you should focus on certain parameters.

  • Number of cameras. There are one and double-glazed windows. The more chambers, the better the sound and heat insulation. If you live in a region with a cold climate, then opt for two cameras.
  • Type of glass. Depending on the type of glass, its performance characteristics. The most common are glasses coated with silver ions (they are called low-emissivity). IN summer period they do not let heat into the room, and in winter they do not allow heat to escape outside.
  • Distance between glasses. The degree of noise and heat insulation depends on this factor. At a distance of 16 millimeters, the indicators increase, at 24 mm they remain unchanged, and at higher parameters they decrease.
  • Filling the chambers. Today, it is increasingly used to fill chambers. inert gas instead of dehumidified air. Due to this, heat loss is minimal. Argon filling is also in demand due to its availability. Krypton and xenon fillings are expensive.

How to install?

When installing windows in a wooden house, shrinkage is an important point. If the structure is made of rounded or chopped logs, planed or profiled timber, then during the first 3-5 years the shrinkage will be 6-15% of the height of the structure. Shrinkage of houses made of laminated veneer lumber is approximately 2%. But even such a small indicator can have a negative impact on the windows if they are installed incorrectly.

Let's look at the algorithm for installing a window in a wooden house using an example plastic structures.

  • Place the frame in the opening and temporarily fix it there to accurately adjust the size and connect it to the frame.
  • Level the edge using a laser or bubble level. Lay the wedges different sizes under each rack to achieve a perfectly level position and eliminate even minimal distortion.
  • Insert the side braces. They guarantee that the same wall-to-frame distance is maintained. If the frame width is smaller than the opening, an expansion profile should be inserted. This option is better than using foam.
  • Align the frame vertically. After this, proceed to fastening the structure, starting with the side posts. To do this, make holes in the wood to insert dowels.
  • Attach the ebb into the corresponding groove under the frame, fill the gap with foam.
  • Attach the decorative trims to the doors and install the handle.
  • Install double-glazed windows on special linings that will prevent the window from bursting.
  • Hammer the top, bottom and side beads.
  • Close up installation seam foam.

Everything is ready, all that remains is to make the window sill.

  • Do not install windows and doors immediately after construction wooden house, wait until the structure shrinks.
  • Use sliding joints when installing windows to prevent structural deformation.
  • If you do not want to do the work yourself, you can turn to specialists. In this case, please check guarantee period for window installation services. It must be at least 3 years old.
  • Make a preliminary detailed drawing window locations.

Glad to be useful to you again, my friends!

After examining my windows in a wooden house, I came to the conclusion that it was time to replace them. I have not yet encountered such a process, so the lack practical experience I made up for it with the help of other people’s knowledge: I searched through a bunch of forums and websites, and through friends I found people who had already done similar work. Then I made a number of conclusions and determined the algorithm for my actions when reinstalling windows. Next, I will present everything sequentially.

First of all, I measured the windows and ordered new ones, informing exact dimensions. While the order was being fulfilled, I began dismantling the old frames and then clearing the openings of accumulated debris. Upon receipt of the windows, I installed window sills and prepared double-glazed windows for installation. I placed the structures in permanent places and secured them. Of course, in reality the process was not so quick and easy, but there is nothing overwhelming about it - I managed it and you can too.

Technology for installing a plastic window in the opening of a wooden house

When installing a plastic double-glazed window into the frame of a wooden house, you cannot do without a level and plumb line - if you want the window sashes to have smooth running, did not open under their own weight or jammed. Then never fix a window without making sure – not by eye, but by level – that it is level.

To ensure that the work involved in inserting the window into the opening and leveling does not go down the drain, it is necessary to fix the leveled structure with mounting fasteners.

Most best option– 6 pieces for each window. They can be ordered in the same place where you submit your application for the production of double-glazed windows.

There are technical slides for these fastenings on each side of the window, so there will be no difficulties with the correct placement of the plates. Each plate has holes for self-tapping screws. Is it possible to do without plates? Yes, if you want to drill through it when attaching the frame, which will cause depressurization of the chambers in the profile. Personally, I am against such barbarism - I need windows not only for beauty, but also for reliable protection from cold and moisture. And tell the installers, if you don’t install them yourself, to install the windows according to the rules. Only in this case will the expectations from plastic double-glazed windows in a wooden house be fully justified.

I highly recommend removing the window sashes from the frame before installing it in the opening. This will not take much time, but will save a lot of energy: without it, it will become much easier and direct it to Right place will be simpler.

Algorithm for installing a double-glazed window into the opening of a wooden house:

  • Having inserted the structure into the frame, insert wood chips 2 centimeters thick under the lower frame;
  • using a water level, determine the quality of the installation;
  • achieve the desired indicator by placing additional chips;
  • Use the same pieces of wood to level the frame vertically;
  • Having determined the most optimal position, secure the frame to the post with self-tapping screws, inserting them into the holes on the mounting plates.

When screwing in each self-tapping screw, do not hit the ridge of the log into which the pigtail rests. To avoid loosening the screw, screw it in slightly at an angle.

After fixing the frame, foam it along the contour only after hanging the sashes - they will prevent it from bending under the pressure of the hardening polyurethane foam. If the sashes are not installed before this, then later there will be problems with the movement of the vents even in a perfectly installed frame.

After leveling the frame horizontally and vertically, a 2 cm thick gap should remain on each side of the entire structure for filling with foam. The height of the distance between the top panel of the frame and the first log is no less than 5 and no more than 15 cm - the gap will prevent the wood from pressing on the windows after the frame shrinks.

Before pouring the foam, a control check is required to ensure the correct installation of the entire structure. They focus on the “behavior” of the open sash: it should not independently go further than it was opened, or try to return back, obeying its weight, and not you.

This is a short educational program on the topic of installing plastic double-glazed windows in a wooden house. I hope that my advice will help you in your noble and exciting endeavor.

Self-installation

I wanted to install plastic windows in my country wooden house. Everything that will be described below is a verbal statement of my experience with self-installation double-glazed windows in a timber house.

Why did I decide to install the windows myself?

There are several reasons:

  • for installation you will have to pay up to 50% of the cost of the window itself (with the savings from 2 installed yourself, you can buy a third);
  • almost all companies providing window installation services in wooden houses, do not provide any guarantees for their work;
  • there is no need to pay for a service that any owner can provide to himself in 2 hours of work.

So that the installation result pleases long years, you need to adhere to the recommendations below step-by-step algorithm actions.

Removing old windows

Regardless of who will install new double-glazed windows in wooden building– you or invited employees – It is permissible to install new structures only on a rigid foundation. I was lucky: the window casings in our house were replaced a couple of years ago, so the wood was flawless. That is, I did not find any wormholes, rot, cracks, dents or chips on it. Therefore, when ordering double-glazed windows, I indicated the dimensions of the new windows, taking into account that the boxes would remain. If in your case the condition of the frames turns out to be not very good, but your housekeeping will not allow you to throw them away, then the dismantled items can be used as the basis for a mini-greenhouse.

Don't know how good and bad the boxes under your windows are? All the same, do not allow either yourself or your employees to break them out “with meat”. You will always have time to use it for firewood. The same applies to glass: there is no certainty that they will not crack during dismantling, so take it out first - they will also find a use. I was lucky again: the frames were still strong, so the structures were removed without removing the glass.

How to prepare a place

Walk around the entire perimeter of the frame with a dry brush or clean rag to sweep away anything remaining after dismantling.

Window sill installation

First on permanent place define a plastic window sill, which is “charged” with serving as the basis for the rest of the structure. Hence the “legs grow” of the requirement to install it perfectly level and horizontal. A regular building level will help determine how correctly it is installed in a vertical and horizontal position. To adjust its location taking into account the level readings, use cut strips of plastic or wood chips (the latter only if they have been treated with an antiseptic). To stabilize the window sill, make a notch on each side of the box, going 8 millimeters deep into the wood.

Secure the window sill with self-tapping screws, screwing it to the bottom of the window frame. Fasteners are placed with a two-centimeter indentation from the outer end of the window sill and with a mandatory backing under each washer. It will prevent the self-tapping screw from breaking through the fabric if you overdo it when tightening the fasteners. Don't worry that the fasteners will spoil the overall impression - they simply won't be visible.

How to prepare a double-glazed window

I recommend before you start installation work put the handle. But the film can be removed later - this way there is less chance of leaving unattractive stripes on the surface of the plastic. You only need to tear off the adhesive strip where the handle is installed. When placing the lever on the sash, hold its long part parallel to the window sill.

After installing the window, this position of the handle will correspond to the mode of opening the entire sash towards itself. When the handle is moved with the end down, the sash will be locked; upward - only the narrow upper part of the window can completely move away from the frame panel.

Having secured the handle to the panel with a pair of bolts, you need to turn it end down. On the side posts, mark the holes for fastenings that will hold the window within the frame.

Window installation

We place the assembled structure in the opening, making sure that on both vertical edges the intermediate distance from the frame to the sides of the glass unit is the same (about a centimeter). At the same time, remember that the horizontal direction is given to us by the previously strengthened correct position windowsill. If it is inconvenient to use a level due to the presence of decor on the outside of the wall, then use a plumb line.

While the person helping you holds the frame, you must wedge a centimeter-wide spacer bar between the frame and the window frame. Their presence is necessary for the stability of the structure being fixed at the moment of connecting the glass unit to the frame with self-tapping screws. If you are lazy or forget about the bars, you can cause the window to move to the side during the fastening process. As a result, the doors will then be difficult to open and close.

After wedging in the bars and placing the glass unit strictly according to the level indicators, secure the inserted structure in the box with self-tapping screws, not forgetting to screw them in on each of the four sides.

When inserting a self-tapping screw, you need to ensure that its location is in the free space between the window and the frame itself.

Then, during periods when the house “walks” under the influence of climatic influences and seasonal changes, the windows in it will not warp.

Installing a window in a wooden house using a self-expanding tape in the video:

How to install double-glazed windows in a wooden building?

First, focus on maintaining patency. drain holes– install adjusting plates between them that will prevent condensation from accumulating from the window. Then insert the double-glazed window into the opening of the box so that along the entire perimeter between the two structures there is free space. It is necessary to maintain the integrity of the glass in the frame when the frame will move behind the house in the spring or winter.

If the glass unit fits tightly to the frame (minimum gap of 5 mm), file a claim with the manufacturer of the structure. A decent contractor should respond by offering an appropriate solution to the problem.

Having inserted a double-glazed window into the box and aligned the first one on four sides with respect to the last one, secure its location with plastic beads with profile spikes. These “spiky” strips are very easy to install: just push them with small taps into the openings. When the bead's spines reach the grooves, you will hear a characteristic click.

Having achieved motionless and correct placement glass unit in the box, fill the voids between these two structures with polyurethane foam, treating the cracks from the inside and outside.

Remove any frozen excess by trimming with a knife.

Having made sure that the work was carried out correctly: the grooves are closed, the sashes move only under the pressure of your hands, you can begin installing additional fittings, trims and drainage systems.

Secure Installation Rules

All difficulties with installing windows in wooden houses have one root: instability wooden structures throughout the entire operational period. Without taking this factor into account during the installation of plastic structures, be it windows or doors, it is quite possible to find yourself in a situation where the new “joinery” fails without even working for a year.

How do wooden houses differ from others? Wood loses a lot of moisture in the first years after the construction of a log house. A year, as some say, is not enough for the final drying process. In the best case, the walls of the house will take their final size in the sixth year after their construction. But in some regions the process of “walking” of houses never ends.

On average, the height of the wall can decrease by 4-5 cm. And what will happen to the double-glazed windows that were installed in the box in such a way that there was only 2-2.5 cm between the sides of these structures? Are the owners really wooden houses Do you need to forget about dreams of plastic windows? Of course not. You just need to follow a number of technical recommendations.

First: do not neglect the casing. It is also called a pigtail. Thanks to it, any windows become independent from exposure, within reasonable limits, load-bearing walls building. Whether they shrink or become slightly bent, this will not affect the integrity and functionality of the window.

General technical characteristics of the casing:

  • will protect the logs from moving away from the vertical in the area of ​​the window opening;
  • does not resist vertical shrinkage of the wall;
  • takes on all the loads;
  • contributes to the strength of the wall in the window opening area.

What is casing? The most common option is to make square vertical grooves with a side of 5 cm in the ends of the logs and then seal them with bars of the same size. But such treatment of the walls around the opening is only suitable for preparing a place for wooden windows. To prepare an opening for plastic double-glazed windows, you need to make a ridge at the ends of the logs, and then install a window carriage with a groove on it. The presence of a tongue and groove will ensure that the logs slide without harming the window frame.

What is a window carriage? This vertical bars with parameters 15x10 cm, with recesses on the edges. The depth of the cuts is 5x5 cm, they are made for inserting jumpers topped at the ends with spikes in the form of 15x5 cm planks.

The assembled casing is 7-8 centimeters below the window opening. This gap is left due to possible wall shrinkage. When the pigtail is assembled in the opening, it is then covered with rolled tow, and carriages are stuffed on top. After such a procedure, neither creaks from shrinkage nor drafts from under the window are scary.

Then you need to make the lower jumper and also stuff the carriages onto the comb with tow. Insert the upper jumper into the hole from above, and then lower it into the groove. Then strengthen the structure with self-tapping screws, making sure that they do not touch the ridge - this is important for maintaining the resulting structure’s relative freedom. After All cracks found between the window frame and the walls must be filled with tow.

You can also insert metal-plastic double-glazed windows into this design without fear that they will jam when the house shrinks. When installing, do not forget that noise, heat, and vapor barriers also need to be taken care of.

The gap between the log house and the casing must be filled with thin strips with wound tow fibers.

When the house begins to shrink noticeably, knock out the slats to replace them with new ones. To make this process easier, I strongly recommend attaching the top casing only to the casing. If you need it, carefully remove it, change the filling, and secure it in place.

When I conducted seminars, I often encountered bewilderment about the need for a window installer to understand the technology of constructing wooden buildings. What's strange about this? Without this, the installer will not be able to install the window in such a way that it will serve for years without complaints. In other cases it is impossible to do without casing.

If you are hired to install plastic double-glazed windows in a wooden house, find out the presence of casing. If it is not there, and instead of a frame there will be a frame from an old window, tell the owner that he has two options. Either he agrees to modernize the window opening for casing and the windows are smaller than planned, or the person will receive windows in old frames without casing, but without your guarantee for a quality result. Since even old wooden houses always “walk” and to resist this, it is better to always take this factor into account when installing windows. And don’t forget to indicate in the contract that you disclaim all responsibility for the future life of the windows.

We install plastic double-glazed windows in a private house

Remember: everything wooden buildings shrink. And this fact must always be taken into account when installing plastic double-glazed windows in a log house.

The strongest shrinkage processes of wood occur in the first two years after the construction of the log house is completed. Each meter of masonry shrinks by 1.5 cm. And this is a very large value to ignore when equipping a wooden house with plastic windows.

Why do they make a casing?

The durability of the plastic window and the level of comfort during use depend on how professionally the casing is carried out. It provides the window with a safe position during the period when the house is once again slightly deformed due to fluctuations under the influence of changes in humidity or temperature.

What is casing? This is a box made of thick boards. It is inserted into the window opening, secured using a certain technology, and only then is it installed PVC double glazing. The box itself is held inside the opening using side grooves.

In the process one cannot hope for technical qualities polyurethane foam, other fastening methods.

A gap must be left between the structure and the upper lintel of the window opening, the value of which should be greater than the expected shrinkage of the wooden wall.

How to make a pigtail:

  • tab wooden beams into specially made grooves (screws will then be screwed into the beams);
  • cutting out tenons on the edges of logs in window opening and by forming grooves in the sides of the box (experts call this the “into the deck” technique);
  • tenons are made in the sides of the structure, and the ends of the window opening logs are equipped with grooves.

Nuances of preparing a window opening

Do not be intimidated by the work of installing plastic double-glazed windows in a wooden building. If you follow the correct algorithm, you can insert modern window in a log house of any age.

First of all, determine the distance to the window from the floor. Most convenient option, if the window sill is slightly higher than the horizontal plane of your desk. If there is none nearby, then use a distance of 80-90 cm.

Determine the lower and upper boundaries of the window opening using a water level. The top line should be 13 +1.5 cm above the top border of the glass unit, the difference on the sides should be 12-14 +1.5 cm. Leave an allowance of one and a half centimeters to seal the cracks with construction foam.

Having decided on the size of the opening, take measurements for the future window. Observe extreme accuracy both when installing the casing and when taking parameters for the design of the glass unit itself. Qualitative measurement is one of the most important nuances that affects the quality of all subsequent work on installing a double-glazed window into the window opening.

After bringing the opening to the desired condition, start tenoning the ends of the logs facing the window. The rough window is trimmed with jute on the sides and bottom. Make the casing only from well-dried wood, sawn into bars. Make connections with self-tapping screws, and cover the points of convergence along the joints with sealant. Fill the gaps in the window with tow.

For information about casing and trim when installing PVC windows in a wooden house, watch the video:

Installation nuances

The finished metal-plastic structure is placed after being ideally pulled out in the foreground or deepened into the wall. The main product is secured with self-tapping screws, screwing them into specially prepared grooves.

It is permissible to install in an ordinary wooden house, but not made of timber metal-plastic window any configuration, if you know how to make the casing correctly, take measurements and select the appropriate fittings.

When selecting tools and other materials, do not take self-tapping screws longer than 12 cm. Such “stings” will definitely go beyond the frame and dig into the main building, which is unacceptable given the mobility of a wooden house.

To waterproof the external seam, you can use acrylic sealant without additional components in the composition, a sealing tape that is self-expanding after being placed in place, or a regular vapor-permeable one. Such protection will extend the service life of the polyurethane foam and prevent the formation of drafts.

Place along the inner seam vapor barrier tape, securing it with special glue. And only then the seam is treated with polyurethane foam.

Hide

A wooden house made of timber or logs inevitably shrinks in the first years of operation. The wood dries out, the height of the walls decreases - at the same time, a huge load is placed on the window frames. To prevent PVC window structures from being damaged due to this natural process, installation plastic windows in a log house with your own hands must be done in strict compliance with the instructions.

Windows are installed 1–2 years after completion of construction, if the material used is logs or ordinary timber. It is during this period that the most active shrinkage occurs. If glued laminated timber is used, installation can begin immediately, since this material has little moisture and practically does not shrink. But in any case, installing a window will have a number of features, and the main one is installation not directly into the opening, but into a special casing. So, how to install it correctly in a log or timber house?

Preparing the window opening

Sawing an opening

The main thing when forming an opening is to maintain the evenness of all its edges. To do this, you need to use not only a plumb line, but also a water level.

It starts by measuring the distance from the floor to the bottom edge of the opening. It can be anything, but optimal parameter- 80–90 cm, so the window sill will not interfere with either the radiator or desk or other furniture.

The size of the windows in a timber house is selected as follows:

  • height - 13 cm more than the plastic structure;
  • width - 12–14 cm more;
  • additionally 3 cm is taken into account in both planes for polyurethane foam.

The opening is cut out chain saw so that half of the log is captured from below and from above. The saw cuts must be treated with protective impregnations.

The main stage of installing double-glazed windows in a wooden house is fixing the frame in the window opening.

Casing (casing)

The most critical stage of work is installation. It is made from timber, which is not simply nailed to the walls, but is attached using a tongue-and-groove system. This box is needed in order to make the windows in a house made of timber independent from the walls and to protect the structures from shrinkage of a private house - using fasteners instead of grooves would not allow this task to be completed.

The second protective barrier is the expansion gap above the box. Its height is calculated based on the maximum shrinkage, which is usually 15 mm for each meter of wall height. windows in log house usually done using embedded or monolithic timber:

  1. In the side edges of the opening, grooves 50 mm wide and 50 mm deep are made using a chain saw or cutter.
  2. Jute is placed inside the grooves.
  3. The bottom board is laid, which will not only be an element of the casing, but also a window sill. Insulation is laid between it and the wall beam.
  4. A tenon - a block 50 mm thick - is inserted into the groove. You cannot fix it with fasteners - the wall will slide along it like on a rail.
  5. A well-dried board 50 mm thick and a width equal to the thickness of the wall beam is screwed to the beam with self-tapping screws.
  6. The top board is inserted into the grooves, laying on the vertical elements and becoming a spacer for them. The gap at the top is filled with a sealant (moss, tow).
  7. The elements of the box are fastened together with self-tapping screws.
  8. The cracks are filled with sealant.

The seal in the upper gap must be protected from moisture and steam using a special film, since plastic windows can be installed in a log house for a long time only by ensuring their complete protection.

Polyurethane foam cannot be used as a sealant, since during polymerization it turns into a rigid material that will transfer the entire shrinkage load to the frame.

There is another way to install the casing of plastic windows in a log house - “in the deck”. Instead of boards and beams, carriages with grooves are used, and the tenon is cut out on the logs themselves. In this case, no fasteners will be required at all. It is important not to forget about sealing the joint with jute.

Window installation

Actually, a do-it-yourself timber house consists of several stages:

  • installation metal-plastic frame inside the prepared casing;
  • insertion of double-glazed windows;
  • installation of fittings and additional elements.

The window can be aligned with the front surface of the wall or slightly deeper into the opening. The size of windows in a wooden house made of timber should be 15 mm smaller than the opening with casing on each side, so that there is room for foaming.

Installation is carried out as follows:

  1. Double-glazed windows and sashes are disconnected from the frame.
  2. The frame is inserted into the window opening in a log house and temporarily secured in several places using wedges.
  3. Using a level, the frame is leveled and fixed with self-tapping screws. They should be long enough to attach the frame to the casing without going right through it.
  4. Gaps of 15 mm on each side, left in advance, are filled with polyurethane foam for thermal insulation and protection from water. While the casing could not be rigidly attached to the wall, the window itself can be fixed - shrinkage will not affect it if initial stages No mistakes were made when installing windows in a log house.

After the frame is installed, you can install the ebb and slopes. Internal and external trims should be attached to the frame boards, but not to the wall beams. Double-glazed windows are inserted into the frame and aligned with glazing beads. After this, the sashes are hung on the hinges, and the operation of the fittings is checked. The installation of windows in the log house is completed.

Thus, in a wooden house it is not as difficult as it seems at first glance. If you follow the procedure for installing the casing, the rules for fixing the structure and observe all the necessary shrinkage gaps, it will turn out to be reliable and durable. To prevent the cracks from affecting thermal insulation properties structures, modern high-quality roll insulation should be used.

The simple installation of windows in a house made of timber allows the owners to carry out all the work without inviting a specialist. It is enough to correctly make all the measurements necessary for construction, select tools, purchase materials and windows. The nuances that exist in each such procedure are comprehended in the process of work. You need to be patient and get to work.

To install windows in a house made of timber, you will need to take measurements, prepare tools and buy the necessary materials.

Specifics of installing windows in a timber building

Any type of building is built taking into account the openings that are left for installing windows and installing doors. But if all known building materials allow a similar procedure to be carried out almost immediately after construction, then installation in wooden houses can begin 1-2 years after their construction. The condition is dictated by the fact that natural material may exhibit shrinkage. Although buildings made from laminated veneer lumber prove to be very durable, it is better to wait the required period and avoid future reconstructions.

The window is never mounted directly into the base of the wall, but only in a box, which should protect the structure as much as possible from possible deformation. Before starting work, the wood in the opening is always checked for possible appearance during this time there was rot, defects, and accidental damage. If they are noticed, they must be addressed immediately and additional processing antiseptic substances.

Since the structure can still shrink at least slightly over time, a small (up to 7 cm) gap is left between the frame and the sides of the opening. Once the process is complete, it is filled with appropriate materials and sealed to prevent drafts and to ensure the integrity of the building. For some reason, the installation of plastic windows is considered inappropriate for timber structures. The opinion is wrong, since their installation is the simplest. If white PVC windows look unsightly, you can purchase structures in wood-like colors or paint them white additional elements building.

To ensure that the quality of the polyurethane foam does not deteriorate due to wood fumes, builders use polyethylene foam foil tape, which provides the necessary shielding. After taking measurements, windows with smaller sizes of about 3-3.5 cm are selected, the width of the window sill is selected taking into account the possible placement of a radiator inside the room. The window sill cannot completely cover heating device: harm is caused to oneself PVC window, and heat transfer is also significantly reduced. If plastic side plugs are sold with the product, you must purchase them and use them during installation.

Preparing the window opening before installation

Use during installation construction foam Necessarily. It guarantees the required rigidity of the structure, its durability, and the necessary insulation.

To ensure that the foam itself does not suffer from climatic conditions, it is also additionally insulated with building materials. The foam sample is selected depending on the time of year when the installation will be carried out. Since the material has the ability to expand, builders advise blowing in small sections so that voids do not form in the final version. Window installation work, unlike building construction, is carried out even in winter.

A prerequisite before starting installation in wooden houses is the absence of dust, debris, residues building materials based on the opening. If the installation is carried out as part of reconstruction, having removed the previous structure, you need to carefully remove the upper fragile layer. Thus, the foam is guaranteed to adhere firmly and will not peel off in the future, forcing you to start the installation all over again. If in the end it turns out that the gap between the window and the frame is slightly larger, it is filled with available building materials:

  • remnants of timber;
  • polystyrene foam;
  • drywall;
  • bricks.

Installing a small window is quite simple: there is no need to remove double-glazed windows and sashes, installation is carried out directly. It is advisable to install large structures in the same way, without violating the integrity provided at the factory.

It is strictly forbidden to place the window flat before starting work or allow it to become distorted.

The window itself may be damaged, and pebbles and remnants of construction material will damage or even break the glass.

Protective film available on all similar designs, is removed immediately, since after installation, after some time it will not be easy to get rid of it: you will have to steam it with a hairdryer, which will worsen the appearance of the window and can damage the PVC surface.

The standard dimensions of indentations from the impost and corners are at least 15 cm. Moreover, if you use special ones for DIY installation mounting plates, fastening is carried out in advance using self-tapping screws, for which holes are made on the frame on the outside. Contrary to recommendations, it is better to install the PSUL protective tape at the end of the work, and not at the very beginning.

DIY frame installation

Before installing a window, it is worth considering that the technology of the work being carried out depends solely on the strength of the houses and the size of the structure. Fixation is carried out mainly by two methods:

  • dowels or anchors (implemented into the walls through pre-drilled holes);
  • serrated plates (attached with screws without damaging the wall).

The choice depends solely on the desire of the person carrying out the installation with his own hands, but the first method is recognized as more durable and effective. His quality characteristics guarantee that the window will not be damaged for a very long time as a result of intensive use.

The step-by-step installation of the product is as follows: wooden blocks or plastic corners, the frame is inserted so that all gap sizes are the same. When using self-tapping screws, do not screw them in too tightly until they stop. After additional checking of the correct location of the window with a plumb line and level, final fixation is carried out, for which you need to insert the window.

Having started work, leave the structure in an unfinished position for long time you can’t: it will begin to bend and become deformed, which will lead to the need to buy a new product. Screwing ends as soon as the surface of the head is level with the frame or protrudes 1-2 mm above it. Next, all existing gaps are additionally filled with foam, all foamed seams, after drying and leveling, if necessary, are covered with protective tapes, which are slightly recessed on the outside.

The gap located under the drainage area is filled with foam, and after its complete polymerization, the window sill that comes with the product is installed. It is inserted to a depth of 2 cm and fixed. The window sill cannot be located perfectly level (only at a slight slope), which will ensure moisture drainage. To do this, it is foamed from below in the space remaining between the house and the window sill.

The window opening must be completely ready no later than 3 days from the start of work. Thus, it will be possible to avoid possible deformation of the material and the structure itself. But you cannot use the product right away. The window should not be touched for about a day to avoid possible damage installation Own house- This is a great responsibility. If the owner does not intend to install the windows himself, you can hire a team of installers.

The correct frame in a timber house allows you to get beautiful and warm window openings in short time. They are beautiful and do not require further finishing of the slopes. Such a casing (casing) is a technological product that takes weeks to produce from scratch.

Appearance

  • Polished product impregnated with antiseptic. It is pleasing to the eye and pleasant to the touch.
  • On the outside of the box, a quarter is selected for installing a window or door frame
  • All parts of the installed casing are fitted to each other with minimal gaps.
  • The width of the casing is equal to the thickness of the wall. This allows you to install the trim immediately after installing the windows.

Diagram of the casing of a window opening in a timber house.

Specifications

  • The casing moves freely in the grooves selected in the walls and does not interfere with the shrinkage of the house
  • Wood moisture content is within 12-14%. This moisture remains in the workpieces after forced drying.
The finishing butt is made from chamber-dried pine or spruce.
  • The groove in the casing for the installation of plastic windows or doors is selected at the factory and corresponds to the width of the frames of future windows
  • The points of contact with the wall are insulated with environmentally friendly insulation.
  • The parts of the pigtail are connected to each other without nails, in a self-jamming lock. It will be good if the locks are additionally coated with sealant.
  • There is a wind lock under the bottom board, also insulated, for example, with jute fiber.
  • In 2018, a glued frame is considered more reliable, that is, made from individual bars glued together under a press.

Proper casing does not require finishing of slopes. That's why it is also called finishing.

The groove for installing a plastic window is clearly visible.

The window sill is part of the casing.

The window looks beautiful. Platbands will give the opening a finished look.

The seam between the casing and the wall is insulated. The lock reliably fixes the casing parts.

The finishing socket allows you to complete the work phase by closing the warm perimeter timber house in short time. The cost may be more expensive than the windows themselves.

Rough casing

The only reason conscious choice rough casing in a timber house, in my opinion, there may be a desire to install a plastic window sill and plastic slopes to match it. You can only save on the type of wood. Because in all other cases, imaginary savings ultimately turn into greater costs.

A high-quality rough frame should also be made from a dry board. Unlike finishing, it does NOT select a quarter. Windows are mounted on mounting plates, like in a stone house or ordinary apartment. Then these plates are covered with extensions, and the end with platbands.

The option of finishing slopes with plastic additions together with plastic window sill.

Rough casing made of dry pine.

Embedding block

Unfortunately, out of ignorance, people often agree to poor-quality rough casing. It is a board with a bar nailed along it, which is placed in a groove selected in the opening. That’s why it’s called “embedded block.”

Poor quality casing

In addition to the costs of finishing the slopes, you can get hidden problems:

  • will guide the board when drying, and it will pull the window along with it
  • a screwed block may become bent and create a gap leading to the street
  • the self-tapping screws of the fastening plates can go right through the casing and fix it to the wall of the house, thereby violating the very idea of ​​the casing

Lumber for casing is purchased on the market. The board sizes are limited in width. This means they can stick out from the wall or be narrower than it. In this case, you will also get access to the platbands.

Casing into the embedded block 1 year after operation. The block had come off, there was little or no insulation. A gap had formed from the house to the street; it was impossible to sit near the window - it was cold!

Suitable formats and sizes

Framing of openings is necessary in houses made of ordinary, planed and profiled timber. Highly recommended for houses made of dry and laminated timber. The main reason for its installation is the phenomenon of shrinkage, that is, a decrease in the volume of wood when drying. When shrinkage occurs, the height of the cut openings decreases, and the timber in the walls can rotate and crack.

Ask a question about casing and windows in the comments and receive a qualified answer. Questions answered real people, who have been working on the glazing of wooden houses for many years!

If you install windows without casing in a house built from freshly sawn or dried timber, then soon through gaps will appear between the beams on both sides of the window to the street - the timber will hang on the screws that secure the window. There will also be a suspended beam that rests on the frame from above. That is, the entire upper part of the house will rest on the window frame. She won't last long. At first the windows will open poorly, then they will stop altogether. The frame will most likely warp and the glass unit will crack.

To prevent this from happening, casing boxes are installed in the openings. For timber houses, T and P type sockets are suitable. It is easy to distinguish them, look at the end of the pigtail - it will look like the corresponding letter.

P-casing and a quarter.

T-casing made of solid wood with a glued tenon.

Important! The dimensions in the tables are correct for standard window openings. If the length or width of the opening exceeds 2 meters, then install casing with a thickness of 90 mm or more.

Differences in casing for windows and doors

The lower part of the window opening casing can serve as a finishing window sill. Its appearance can be customized to suit your taste. For example, move the window sill inside the room and expand the protruding part to the sides. This is called “with ears.”

In another case, if the window has a plastic window sill, the lower part of the window casing is made thinner than the other parts. This way it retains its function and does not interfere.

Bottom with ears = excellent wooden window sill

Window option with a plastic window sill. It also looks harmonious.

The door frame can be supplied without the lower part. In this case, the bottom of the side panels is screwed to the wall with self-tapping screws - wood grouse. This method is optimal if you plan to have a threshold-free floor. Door casing without a threshold is often used. The technology has been proven and the guarantee remains in full.

Casing without threshold on internal doorways.

This is where the differences between window and door frames end. The sides and top are the same.

How to make a casing with your own hands

Making clean casing blocks for plastic windows yourself is difficult, but possible. To do this, you will need a planed dry timber or carriage with a thickness of 50 - 100 mm and a width equal to the thickness of the walls in your house. And also jute tape, PVA glue, self-tapping screws, wood sealant, antiseptic impregnation, brush. Construction stapler to secure the jute to the wall.

From simple tools You will need a hammer, chisel, building level, hacksaw, pencil or marker, ruler, corner. From power tools - chain or Circular Saw, electric planer, manual frezer. The help of one or two friends will not be superfluous.

Before starting work, decide which casing you will do - P or T type. The size of the opening depends on this.

How to cut a casing profile

In a timber house we will make a T-frame, as it is easier to make with our own hands. Here you can do without a router, just one manual disk circular saw which can be rented.

Cut T - casing from solid timber too wasteful. There will be a lot of waste left. Therefore, we will use the option of gluing a tenon into the sides. On the market, such casing is also called a monolith spike.

The final result of the work.

In a house made of profiled timber 150 x 150 mm, we will need a planed board 150 x 50 mm and a block 50 x 50 mm to make a frame. We mark the drawing as follows: on each part there is a quarter groove 73 mm wide (! frame width + 3 mm) and 25 mm deep, on the sides there is an additional 53x10 mm groove for a tenon.

Important: when marking a groove in the frame for installation window frame, find out the profile thickness of this frame. Most often in middle lane Russia uses a 70 mm profile.

For the top we take a beam 150 x 50 mm.



Windowsill. With a wind lock made of 150x90 mm timber and without a wind lock made of 150x50 mm timber.

Longitudinal cuts are made with a circular saw. If the cutting depth is not enough, carefully cut out the remaining wood with a chisel. We also select the groove for the wind lock using a chisel or a router.

And this is what a drawing of the sides of a classic casing deck looks like. The top and window sill are marked in the same way as the T-view.

Drawing of the side parts of the P-casing.

Dimensional tolerance table

Quarter
Sampling for installation of frames
The width will be equal to the width of the frame + 3 mm.

The depth when casing a window opening depends on the height of the blind profile to the glazing bead and to the hinges. If the hinge is close to the casing, then it will not be possible to open the window completely. Usually the frame extends into the quarter by 10-15 mm, another 10 mm is left for the mounting angles.

Groove for tenon insertion
Lateral parts of the T-casing
- 2-3 mm wider than the bar
— depth 5-15 mm, depends on the thickness of the casing board.
Groove for the wind lock in the bottom board — 2-3 mm wider than the wind bar
— depth 5-15 mm. On a thin window sill, the wind lock is not cut out.
Groove in the end of the house wall The depth is 10 mm deeper than the tenon.
The width is 5 mm wider than the spike.
Spike at the end of the house wall The width is 5 mm less than the groove in the pigtail.

The height is 5 mm less than the depth of the groove.

Installation of classic P-casing

The technology for installing a pigtail in a timber house is as follows:

  • We mark and cut out openings
  • We mark a groove at the ends of the cut openings. Let's choose it. Or we form a spike if you chose a P casing.
  • We impregnate the openings and the adjacent part of the casing with an antiseptic, for example Veres Base
  • We insulate the opening with jute tape
  • Install bottom part, then the sides and finish by installing the top
  • Checking the geometry
  • We fill the free space above the tops tightly with jute

It seems simple, but as usual, the devil is in the details. I’ll try to show the process of installing casing in a house made of 150x150 mm timber. If it is unclear, ask in the comments.

When marking openings, remember Golden Rule"Seven times measure cut once".

Slowly and carefully form a tenon on the side walls of the opening.

Use it building level. The window sill must be strictly horizontal, the sides must be vertical.

When marking openings, proceed from the planned window sizes. Add to these dimensions the thickness of the casing (taking into account the selected quarter) and the gaps for the jute. The sufficient width of the groove for a wall thickness of 150 mm will be 55 mm. I wrote below on the page how to correctly calculate the dimensions of the opening.

The groove is always 5 mm larger than the tenon. It won’t dangle, you still need to insulate the opening with 1-2 layers of jute tape.









First, we insulate the lower part and install the window sill, then we insulate the remaining perimeter and install the sides. We close the casing by installing a topper.

We coat the locks with wood sealant. No self-tapping screws!

On final stage we tuck the protruding jute into the seams. We also tightly plug the space above the top with it.

Let's check the geometry again. Profit!

The result of the work.

Installation video - very detailed

In the video, the house is not entirely made of timber. It is a fire monitor, but also with smooth walls. All stages of casing installation were well filmed. A bonus is the visual installation of plastic windows and doors.

Video timing:

  • marking openings in the wall 0:20 - 1:07
  • sawing 1:10 – 2:20
  • marking the tenon at the end of the opening - 3:30 - 4:05
  • sawing out a tenon - 4:10 - 6:11
  • impregnation of the opening with an antiseptic - 6:13 - 6:55
  • impregnation of the casing with an antiseptic - 6:56 - 7:06
  • installation of casing with insulation of the opening with jute - from 7:08
  • how the last part of the casing is mounted - the top - 7:54 - 8:05 and 8:20 - 8:30
  • installation of doors and windows - from 8:35
  • caulking seams with jute - from 11:06

Installation of T-casing in a timber house

The technology differs only in that a groove is selected at the end of the openings. And the spike is formed on the side of the casing adjacent to the wall.

It’s not difficult to make a groove in a beam or, simply put, a groove. In the drawing I showed the top view of the groove. After marking, you make two vertical cuts, then two more 45-degree cuts. Remove the cut triangles and clean the middle with the tip of the chain. Or a chisel if you are not confident in your abilities.

How and how to cut a groove in a beam - top view of the opening.

To make straight cuts with a chain saw you need experience, a good eye and strong hands. You can also cut the groove with a hand-held circular saw, and where it won’t reach, finish it with a chisel.

Both types of pigtails are equally reliable. P-casing is a classic, time-tested option. T-casing appeared relatively recently; it is used for installation in houses with grooves cut during the construction of walls.

Advice: The cost of installing a frame for 1 opening in a log house from different companies is now in the range of 3,500 - 5,000 rubles. At the same time, you can order the production of casing without a proprietary installation.

Thus, you will receive ready-made casing profiles of the shape and size you need. To slowly install them in free time, saving tens of thousands of rubles.

An additional bonus when ordering a ready-made joint is the choice of options, the independent implementation of which is very expensive. For example, you can order casing to widen the openings into the house - this visually enlarges the openings and provides more light. Or order a clean window sill.

How to connect the parts of a pigtail - lock options

The locks connecting the parts of the casing vary in complexity of execution. The correct lock prevents the parts of the box from moving relative to each other. Both during the installation of a window or door, and during the period of shrinkage of the house. It also prevents connections from blowing out.

Options:

  • quarter connection. The simplest to implement, often used for self-installation. Requires additional fixation with corners.
  • quarter joint with reverse corners. A more rigid option also requires additional fixation. Blown through
  • dovetail or box tenon connection
  • designer locks from companies that manufacture and install casing.

A quarter is the simplest and most unreliable lock.

On the left is a box plier, on the right is a casing with a designer lock.

The upper and lower locks in the casing are usually different in shape.



Factory cut top lock.

How to calculate the size of openings if there are window/door sizes

Let's take as an example a 1.4 by 1.2 meter window in a house made of 150x150 profiled timber. We will calculate the width and height of the opening for a P-casing with a thickness of 90 mm. The wooden window sill is bottom pigtails.

Calculation using the example of a window 1400 x 1200 mm.

Initial data:

  • window width 1400 mm, window height 1200 mm
  • thickness of side panels - 90 mm, top and window sill - 60 mm
  • depth of the selected quarter for the frame - 25 mm
  • drank above the tip - 70 mm

Formula:

Opening width = window width + two casing thicknesses - two quarter depths + 5 mm for the gap between the casing and the wall on each side and 10 mm for the gap between the casing and the frame, also on each side.

1400+90+90+30–50 = 1560 mm

The height of the opening = the height of the window + the thickness of the window sill + the thickness of the top + 25 mm for gaps - two quarter depths + the gap above the top.

1200+90+90+25–40+70 = 1435 mm

The principle, I think, is clear. If anything, ask in the comments.

Conclusions on self-installation

  1. Many people install the casing with their own hands. So you can too.
  2. Always keep in mind that you need warm openings. The window frame is not an end in itself, but an intermediate stage when installing windows and doors in a wooden house.
  3. Remember that a house built from timber natural humidity, shrinks by 10-15 cm per year. Leave enough free space above the top.
  4. The lifespan of the windows and doors of your home depends on the quality of the frame.
  5. If possible, avoid rough casing in the embedded block.

FAQ

  • When to install the casing, do you have to wait for the house to shrink?

You can close the warm perimeter, that is, install windows and doors in the casing, immediately after building the walls and roof of the timber house. Casing blocks do not interfere with shrinkage and will keep your frames safe.

  • Is it possible to install plastic windows without casing?

In a frame or stone house you can. In a log house - you can’t.

  • Glued or solid wood - which is better?

Nowadays, most companies work with laminated wood (those who offer finishing casing). Because there is an array of pine and fir trees on the market Low quality. Or at an inappropriate price.

  • Is a window frame necessary in timber houses built 5-10 years ago?

Needed. Wood is a natural material. Its humidity depends on weather conditions. And the timber in the walls will still “play”.

  • In a timber house we want to install a casing in the embedded timber. It's much cheaper and faster. Why is that bad?

It's not bad. But this may be more expensive than proper casing. The rough box will require finishing - installation and adjustment of accessories. Check its quality too

  • If you missed any points about the frame of the log house, ask in the comments.

Ask a casing question to an expert!

Measurers and managers of Shuvoe.ru LLC, the oldest casing production and installation company in the Moscow region, answer your questions. Since 1995, Shuvoe.ru has been professionally glazing wooden houses.