Kobeya perennial planting and care. Kobeya climbing: how to grow a flowering vine from seeds? Transshipment of seedlings and hardening

Kobeya is an ornamental climbing plant. It looks great with vertical gardening. Flowers of exotic beauty will appear only with careful care. It can be propagated by cuttings or planting seeds in open ground. Experts recommend growing the vine from seeds, as it has a long growing season. With this method of cultivation, it will begin to bloom in mid-summer, turning into a lush subshrub.

Why growing kobeya from seeds is more productive

This tropical plant has a long flowering period. It can continue until frost begins. At this time, seeds begin to form, but they will not be able to reproduce. In the southern regions, early planting is possible, so gardeners may receive fruits that have not reached the required maturity. In the northern regions, the vine does not have time to form seeds at all.

That is why experts recommend growing climbing kobeya only from seeds, purchasing them annually in specialized flower shops. They must be from the latest harvest, since germination depends on their age. The seeds have a flat oval shape, enclosed in a capsule with a hard skin. It opens at the side seams.

When to plant: general timing and successful dates

You can transplant seedlings into open ground in the middle zone as early as May, but it is better in the first ten days of June. There should not be frost for a long period.

If kobeya is planted in Siberian conditions, then this can also be done in late spring or early summer. The air temperature at night should not fall below 12°C.

The following are considered favorable sowing days according to the 2019 lunar calendar:

• May 21-23, 26-28,
• June 1-2, 5-6, 9-13.

Popular varieties with photos

There are nine species of vines in total. The most common are the following:

• Kobeya climbing (creeping, climbing).

Has a white color. It has branched tendrils, shoots spread up to 5-6 meters. Its leaves are openwork, feathery, the ends are framed with tendrils. The buds, when blooming, emit a musky scent.

• Calando.

Purple kobeya, excellent for landscaping small architectural forms. The flower can reach 6-7 cm in diameter. It quickly takes root and grows on the sunny side. Blooms from July until frost. The length of the shoots reaches 4-5 meters.

• jingle bells.

This variety has milky white bells reaching 8 cm in diameter. It grows quickly, up to 3 meters in height. Grows in sunny and well-fertilized areas. Blooms throughout the growing season.

• Wedding bells.

White annual. The bells reach 8 cm in size. The pistil and stamens are long.

Features of planting kobei: seed preparation

Pre-planting seed preparation includes two stages:

• the seeds are prepared and planted for seedlings;
• germinated seeds are transplanted into the ground.

The fruits of the vine are covered with a hard shell, so they are prepared in advance for planting.

Stratification

For rapid germination, pre-stratification is carried out. The hard coating softens and cracks. Moisture penetrating inside triggers physiological processes. At home, do it as follows:

1. Place the seeds in any container so that they do not come into contact with each other.
2. Pour in a small amount of water at room temperature.
3. Close with a lid.
4. Place the container in a warm place.
5. The shell is removed after it has softened.

The cleaned seeds will be immediately ready for planting in the ground.

Germination

The seed shell is not removed, but they are germinated before sowing. For this:

1. Soak the seed material in a slightly warmed solution of a growth stimulator for 4 hours;
2. Transfer the seeds to a wet cloth, avoiding their contact;
3. Cover with plastic wrap and place in a sunny place.

Seedlings will appear within 15 days. If mold occurs, the seeds should be washed and transferred to a fresh napkin. Any ready-made drug can be used as a growth stimulator.

Disembarkation issues

Germinated or shelled seeds are planted in previously prepared soil. Seal them 1.5 cm deep with the flat side down. The soil is moistened.

For each seed you need to prepare a separate container. You can use plastic cups or peat tablets. The roots will not be damaged, and adaptation in the soil will be painless.

Hardening

Before planting in open ground, seedlings must be hardened off for 3 weeks. You can take it out onto a glassed-in balcony or loggia. If the weather is warm, then you need to take the young animals outside and leave them overnight.

Planting seeds in the ground

Amateur flower growers sometimes plant seeds directly on the site in July in order to obtain early flowering. All necessary preparation is also carried out. At the end of August, young shoots are dug up, transplanted into separate containers and left for storage in a cold place. Heavily branched plants are pruned.

The room temperature should be maintained within 8-10°C. Watering is moderate and only when the earthen clod dries out. It will be possible to plant vines for next year at the end of May.

Most gardeners claim that growing kobea from seeds at home is the best way to achieve timely flowering.

Care after landing

Planted seedlings require careful care. It includes:

1. Watering. It is carried out moderately, but at high temperatures - abundantly, so that the growth of the vine does not stop.
2. Weeding. It must be carried out very carefully; the damaged plant will stop developing.
3. Feeding. It is carried out 2 times within a month. First you need to apply mineral fertilizers, and after 15 days organic fertilizers. The procedures must be completed at the end of the first summer month, otherwise the buds will not develop due to the abundant foliage.
4. Caring for lashes. They need to be tied up, distributed in the right direction, and yellowed foliage must be removed.

The soil must be kept loose. To do this, it is useful to mulch with humus, peat, and sawdust.

The first shoots will begin to appear in July. Flowering will continue until October. The vine will wither only with the onset of frost.

Caring for an adult plant

Supports for the vine should be prepared in advance. In their absence, the kobei will independently look for places convenient for growth.

The annual plant is susceptible to attacks by aphids and spider mites. You need to regularly inspect shoots, flowers, leaves, and provide timely assistance. The stems are treated with ready-made preparations. At the first sign of pests, you can treat with a self-prepared solution. An infusion of onion peels is suitable.

With improper or lack of care, kobeya can be affected by root rot. The leaves will become covered with black spots. The roots will rot due to lack of drainage. The plant will lose strength and stop developing.

To avoid an unpleasant situation, it is necessary to water as the soil dries out and loosen the soil. If the summer is dry, then abundant watering is required. In case of frequent rains, moistening should be stopped until the soil dries out.

You need to feed the kobei 6-7 days after transplanting it to the site. Before the buds are released, nitrogen fertilizers are used, which will accelerate the formation of green mass. After their appearance, the fertilizing is replaced with phosphorus-potassium. It will stimulate the development of large buds. In the future, fertilizers need to be alternated.

Kobeya looks great in landscape compositions. You can make a dense wall near an open gazebo, perform zoning of the site, decorate outbuildings, a veranda or the wall of a country house.

Kobea is an ornamental vine native to South America. A climbing subshrub in the warm, humid climate of the subtropics, it grows in forests as a perennial plant. Kobeya was cultivated at the end of the 13th century. In landscape design, it is used as an element in vertical gardening. With the help of lianas they design:

• hedges;
• arches;
• balconies;
• gazebos.

In the rather harsh climate of our country, the ornamental vine is grown as an annual. In nature, there are nine varieties of plants belonging to the genus Kobei. Flower growers use one type of climbing kobei. It has a number of other names:

• creeping kobeya;
• Mexican ivy;
• monastery bells.

Kobeya is a climbing shrub with a powerful, branched root system in the form of thin fibrous roots. The liana can grow more than six meters per season.

The stem is branched, angular, covered with beautiful, complex-pinnate leaves, arranged alternately. Each shoot ends with tendrils; these are modified leaves; it is with their help that the vine is able to rise to great heights on any basis.

Thanks to the nutrition provided by the powerful root, the plant develops very quickly. In a short period of time, the vine entwines a large vertical area, which is very important in landscape design for the decorative design of gardens and personal plots.

The leaf axils are the places where the flower stalks are located. Quite long (20 cm). The flowers are large and fragrant. The shape is bell-shaped. The diameter is about 8 cm. The pistil and stamens protrude strongly from behind the petals. This makes the flowers elegant and unique. Bell-shaped flowers are arranged singly or in pairs.

Flowering is long lasting. Lasts until the first frost. The first flowers open in July. By the end of the season, fruits are formed from them. The shape of the fruit resembles a box. The seeds are flat, oval, large. When the flowers bloom they are greenish-cream and smell musky. Later, a change in color and smell occurs. The color becomes either white or purple. Depends on the variety. They smell like honey.

In the nature of South America, there are nine species. Flower growers use only one for breeding. A species that has found application is the climbing kobei. Reproduces:

• Seeds through seedlings;
• Cuttings (rarely).

Liana is a tropical plant that loves warmth and moisture. The climate in most regions of Russia is harsh for it; it cannot winter; it is grown traditionally as an annual crop.

In the middle zone, with proper care during the summer season, the vine grows well in vegetative mass. It manages to bloom. With the seedling method of cultivation, it begins to bloom in July and blooms until frost. Fruits are formed, but seeds rarely ripen.

In southern regions with a subtropical climate, the vine can be cultivated as a perennial. Flowering of perennial kobeya begins in April. Gardeners love kobeya for its high decorative value. During the period of active growth, it can quickly braid any support:

1. Cone.
2. Pergola.
3. Arch.
4. Column.
5. Grid.

A decorative support, covered with bright green lacy foliage and, at the end of summer, bell-shaped flowers of different shades, becomes a real decoration of the garden from June until frost.

The violet kobeya variety is ideal for vertical gardening. The liana grows up to 4 meters per season. It gives a lot of shoots. It blooms with beautiful, large, bell-shaped flowers.

The flowers can be different shades of purple, ranging from light purple to dark purple. Blooms profusely when grown in sunny areas with soil dug deeply before planting.

During the summer, for full growth and flowering, the liana requires:

• regular watering;
• feeding;
• topping;
• loosening.

A spectacular annual climbing plant. By the end of summer, the vine reaches a height of 4 meters. It blooms with large white flowers, the diameter of which is almost 8 centimeters. It is recommended to plant along the walls of the gazebo, near the fence, along the balconies.

The plant produces shoots that, clinging to the support with their tendrils, quickly grow and delight the eye with a waterfall of leaves of a beautiful emerald green color. The shape of the inflorescences is very similar to large bells. At the beginning of flowering they are pale green, gradually changing color and becoming bright white.

Preference is given to areas brightly lit by the sun. With fertile, loose soils. It is recommended to propagate by seeds. To obtain strong seedlings at the end of May or the first ten days of June, sow seeds in February.

The Tsar Bell variety is an annual climbing vine. Grows up to 3 meters in height. The leaves are pinnate with a wrinkled surface. At the end of the shoot there are tendrils that attach the plant to the support.

It blooms with large white flowers (6-8 cm), the shape resembles a large bell. Flowering continues from early July until the first frost.

Tsar Bell is an ideal plant for vertical gardening. Recommended to use for decoration:

• facades of houses;
• verandas;
• gazebos;
• trellis.

Sowing is recommended to be done in February. Replant into the ground after warm weather with above-zero night temperatures sets in. Usually this is the end of May, beginning of June. You can get a strong, abundantly flowering plant when planting seedlings in July.

The Amazon kobei variety blooms with beautiful purple flowers shaped like bells; at first they are light green and gradually turn purple.

The plant produces many shoots that quickly reach a length of 4 meters.

At the ends of the shoots there are mustaches. Amazon liana grows well in fertile soil. Loves watering, fertilizing, sunlight.

In greenhouse conditions it can be grown as a perennial crop.

To grow kobeya, you need seeds and knowledge of certain rules of agricultural technology, knowing which even a beginner can cope and independently grow strong, good seedlings of annual kobeya.

When planning a planting site, consider what the vine likes:

• Fertile, fertilized soil;
• deeply dug soil;
• absence of drafts;
• Sun.

When to plant seedlings

In our climate, with frequent spring frosts, you can achieve flowering of kobei if you think about seedlings in time. This must be done in February. The best time for sowing is considered to be from the end of February to mid-March.

Preparing soil and seeds

Kobe seeds are quite large, flat, and have a round shape. You can sow dry, but soaked seeds germinate faster. You will need:

• Saucer;
• Plastic bag;
• Seeds;
• Toilet paper;
• Epin (or any other growth stimulant).

Roll up toilet paper in several layers, soak it in a growth stimulator, and place it on a saucer. Place the seeds on toilet paper so that they do not touch each other. Place the saucer inside a plastic bag. Tie the bag and place it in a warm, lit place.

Until the seeds hatch, they should be periodically rinsed in running water, toilet paper should be changed, and mold should not appear on the seeds. If the wait for pecking is prolonged, you can try to help - take a needle and prick each seed.

To obtain strong seedlings, you need good soil and a separate container for each plant. When sown in individual containers, kobeya suffers less during transplantation. You should buy universal or special flower soil at a flower shop.

Fill containers with soil. Water. Carefully place the sprouted seeds in the middle of each pot. Cover with a layer of soil of at least 1.5 cm. At an air temperature of 20, sprouts will appear after 2-3 weeks.

Seedlings grow better and stretch less if the ambient temperature is not higher than 16 C. Good lighting plays an important role. The more light, the stronger and healthier the plant. As soon as the sprouts appear, place supports in the pots. The young vine will cling to it. Instead of rigid supports, you can use twine, securing it at the top.

Basic care before transplanting into open ground:

• Watering;
• spraying with warm water;
• shortening long lashes.

If the indoor air is too dry, young plants may suffer from spider mites. Kobeya grows quickly, so that the vines do not intertwine with each other, you need to place pots with seedlings so that there is a large gap between them.

A larger pot will be required for replanting as soon as the container becomes too small for the root system. Transshipment is necessary for good seedling growth.

Only when the threat of night frosts has passed should the kobea be planted in a permanent place in the garden. Even a small minus can destroy a fragile seedling. It is most reliable to carry out transplantation work in early June.

When planting several vines, dig holes at a distance of at least 0.5 meters. For good plant growth, prepare a dressing for planting holes, mix:

• Peat;
• Humus;
• River sand;
• Garden soil.

It would be nice if you add a little double superphosphate to the pit. This will increase soil fertility. Before transshipment, do not forget to water the plant. Carefully remove it from the container, place it in the planting hole, cover it with soil, compact it tightly and fill it with water. To retain moisture, mulch the soil with dry grass.

In summer, kobeya needs to be watered in a timely manner. The plant is subtropical and needs moisture. It is necessary to water moderately, avoiding stagnation of moisture. Once two weeks after planting, feed with nitrogen fertilizers; further feeding should be done only with flower fertilizers that do not contain nitrogen. You can use infusions made from ash, mullein, and herbs.

In dry, hot weather, it is necessary to irrigate the vine. If this is not done, spider mites will appear on the plant. Flowering continues until frost. To prevent the plant from losing its decorative appearance, remove faded and dried flowers regularly.

The liana constantly throws out new shoots. During the summer, you will have to tie them to a support so that they do not entangle other plants growing nearby. It has been noted that on acidic soils the flowers have a red tint, while on soils with low acidity the flowers are blue.

Most often, with excessive watering or in damp summers, kobeya is affected by root rot. A symptom of the disease will be the presence of dark spots on the leaf blades. Loosening the soil is the main prevention of the disease. If diseased plants appear, they must be removed as quickly as possible by digging them up along with the roots.

You shouldn’t expect to get your kobe seeds in the fall. In the conditions of the Russian climate, this is an impossible task. The seeds do not have time to ripen. You should only rely on purchased seeds. Moreover, their germination rate, even among well-known companies, is not high, no more than 30%.

Is it possible to preserve kobeya in winter?

A not lazy gardener with a cellar can grow kobeya as a perennial crop. After October 10, before night frosts hit, all stems must be cut off.

Two years ago, while planning spring work, I decided to decorate the wall of a country house in some unusual way.

When buying seeds, my gaze involuntarily stopped at the bags with the inscriptions: “Lilac Kobeya” and “White Kobeya”. Very beautiful and unusual bells were depicted on them.

And the annotation on the bags promised some kind of magic in advance: “The liana is ideal for vertical gardening,” “the spectacular climbing vine will bring down a waterfall of large bells on you.” Since I wanted to grow something unusual, I settled on this beautiful flower. The only thing that held me back was that kobeya had to be grown through seedlings. And I’ve already heard that this is a rather capricious plant.

So, the climbing kobe, whose homeland is Mexico, is a perennial, but only in areas with a warm climate. Here we grow it as an annual crop. I made up my mind and at the end of February I bought two bags of seeds - one with a lilac flower color and one with a white one. And I immediately made my first mistakes: firstly, I should have taken care of purchasing kobeya much earlier, in early February, and I had to buy seeds not one bag at a time, but two at a time and preferably from different companies, because... not all of them have good germination.

Sowing dates and seedlings

I put seeds from both bags for germination on March 2. Each of them contained five seeds. In one saucer I sprouted the seeds of white kobe, in the other - lilac.

In each saucer I placed a paper napkin folded in several layers and moistened it with a weak pink solution of potassium permanganate. I laid out the seeds on paper napkins so that they did not touch each other. I placed each saucer with seeds in a plastic bag, kept these bags in a warm place, but always in the light. The temperature during seed germination should not be lower than +20°C. Every day I checked the seeds and removed mucus from them when it began to form. This mucus prevents seed germination. I made sure that the paper napkins in the saucers did not dry out.

Seed germination time is 15-20 days. If mold appears on the seeds during germination, be sure to wash them with a pink solution of potassium permanganate and change the paper in the saucers.

And here are the results I got from the first batch of seeds set for germination. In the saucer with white kobe seeds, not a single seed hatched; I kept them germinating for a whole month, and they did not produce roots. Two lilac kobe seeds sprouted: one after ten days, the second after two weeks.

I carefully planted both seeds, one at a time, with the flat side, each in a separate pot (0.5 l) to a depth of 1 cm. The soil for seedlings should be taken of good quality flower soil, you can add a little coconut substrate to it.

So, the lilac kobeya was planted. But I really wanted to plant white kobeya. I bought its seeds again, but only on March 17, and from a different company. Immediately in the evening I put them to germination. I did the same operations as with the first batch of seeds. This time I was lucky: within a week three seeds had sprouts, and after 10 days a root appeared on the fourth seed. They were all immediately planted in pots.

The next stage in growing seedlings gave the following results. A sprout of lilac kobeya appeared in the pot after 8 days in one glass, it grew very slowly, and only at the beginning of April a real leaf appeared. Another pot of lilac kobeya showed no signs of life, and when I dug up the seed a month later, I saw that it had rotted. I kept the cups on a warm windowsill and illuminated them with a fluorescent lamp.

The second batch of white kobea developed rapidly: on March 24 and 27, the seeds were planted in cups. The shoots appeared a week later, and on April 8 they already had their first true leaves. I watered the plants very carefully - I couldn’t let the soil in the cups dry out, but I also shouldn’t overwater them. I fed it twice with Kemira-lux fertilizer. As soon as real leaves appeared, I stuck a thin stick into each glass, or an ordinary twig. After three weeks, I transplanted all the kobe seedlings into liter containers. She replanted it very carefully: its stems were fragile, thin, and I was afraid to break it. I have already placed larger twigs in these containers with transplanted plants.

Kobeya grows very slowly at first, but then it picks up such a pace that you have to place the cups further away from each other, otherwise the fragile stems will intertwine.

After transplanting into liter containers, we were no longer able to keep the seedlings in the room on the windowsill, there was not enough space, and we put them on the glassed-in loggia. But our seedlings really liked it there: more air and sun. Since the kobei seedlings begin to grow rapidly, in May you can once again transplant them into larger pots, but we did not do this; we braided its stems as best we could around the sticks. For better tillering, you can pinch the tops of the seedlings, but we didn’t do this operation either - the mass of the stems grew so rapidly that we were afraid we wouldn’t be able to cope with the large number of shoots.

The seedlings are ready, they need to be taken to the site. My husband and I packed each vine into a cardboard box, placing the shoots in rings so they wouldn’t get too tangled.

Garden planting and care

Kobeya should be planted when the threat of frost has completely passed. These vines, when they become mature plants, will withstand frosts and down to -5°C. We prepared the planting site in advance, in the fall. The site there is well drained, the soil is loose, fertile, moisture-permeable, the place is sunny, protected from cold winds. The distance between plants is 60 cm.

I planted the kobeya in early June. I had to do this alone, and again a mistake was made. It is very difficult to plant it without anyone’s help, since you must simultaneously hold the shoots so that they do not get tangled or break off, and push the lump of earth with roots out of the pot. I had to suffer with this operation. But my main omission was that I did not harden the seedlings before planting them in the ground. I just took the pots with plants out of the greenhouse and planted them in the ground.

The weather was sunny with strong winds, and after two days all my plants looked sad: white burnt leaves, burnt stems. The kobei were almost destroyed, it was necessary to save the plants. We covered them with non-woven material, established constant control over them, carefully watered them, and gradually accustomed them to the sun. We began to wait to see if our kobes would come to their senses after such burns.

But, apparently, this plant is very strong and life-loving; side shoots gradually began to grow and gradually gain strength. Very soon they recovered from the disease and began to grow actively, increasing the vegetative mass of the vines every day. We stretched the strings of twine up to the roof. The gap between the wall of the house and the mesh on which the vine will rest is approximately 10-15 cm. All shoots were carefully tied to twine.

When tying the stems, you must not pull the shoots too tightly to the twine; direct the numerous stems not all together upward, but distributing them in the form of a fan.

The following year we already secured the kobei vine using paper clips taken from bread bags. The kobei support can also be placed in the form of a lattice or mesh. With its help you can well drape an arch or a gazebo. Then, when the vine gains strength, it itself attaches itself to the support, clinging to it with ears that form at the ends of the leaves. Two weeks later, when the plants took root and the vines began to increase their vegetative mass, we watered them with water containing slurry diluted in it. You can pour water with diluted azophoska. The vines were watered in the evening as needed, very generously, thoroughly soaking the soil. By August the vine had grown greatly. In August, kobeya was watered with a solution of phosphorus-potassium fertilizers.

Many will say: is it worth spending so much effort to grow this vine; you can plant others that would be less fuss with. But kobeya is really beautiful and spectacular. And if you still decide to plant it at home, you will never part with it. To cover the wall of a house 5 meters long, four kobea plants were enough for us. The liana thanked us in full: four-meter powerful vines of beautiful leaves grew, original flowers appeared: large lilac and white bells. True, the white bells were not pure white, but with a yellowish tint. And what interesting stamens these flowers have: very long, extending beyond the corolla with a beautiful bend. The vines bloomed at the end of July and bloomed until frost.

Kobeya became the decoration of the site, everyone who came to us stopped at these vines and were interested in the plant. It is very decorative. Faded inflorescences on vines do not need to be removed; the petals fly off on their own, but at the same time the plant always retains its decorative and neat appearance. In September, a lot of seed pods sprouted on the kobei, they are also very interesting, they look like small strong cucumbers, we were very surprised when we saw them.

Last year, I was again delayed in germinating kobeya, but now I was helped by the fact that the seeds were of better quality, quickly hatched and sprouted in pots, and also by the fact that I already had some skill in growing this plant.

To see the flowering of kobei at the end of July, you need to take care of this plant in February.

It is noteworthy that last year some shoots of kobei made their way into the cracks in the veranda and attic and there they stretched their lashes 1.5 meters and even bloomed. In addition, last year there were no severe frosts in the fall, and our kobeas bloomed until the end of October. They removed the green and flowering vines from the supports, and it was a great pity to destroy this beauty.

Kobeya needs to be planted in very fertile soil, fed and watered regularly. Yes, I want to clarify: when I was doing foliar feeding of vegetable plants on the site, twice my kobes also received this feeding with Uniflor microfertilizers.

Why do these vines need to be fed well? We came to this conclusion by comparing the development of one of the kobei seedlings, which I gave to other hands. I saw this plant as an adult. Unfortunately, there the vine did not gain the same power and beauty that it demonstrated on our site. We realized that the kobeya gratefully responds to care and attention with its lush flowering and powerful, healthy vines.

Galina Romanova, experienced gardener

A strong vine with beautiful inflorescences will certainly become the favorite of any gardener. Its cultivation does not require much effort, and its spectacular flowering and rapid growth will be a pleasant addition and a suitable decoration for other crops. How to grow kobeya from seeds, the main types and secrets of success are discussed in further information.

Description and types

The beautiful kobeya is distinguished by large inflorescences - bells, heart-shaped leaves and tenacious tendrils that ensure reliable attachment of the stem. With proper care, the plant can reach a height of six meters, and its flowering lasts for more than four months!

Large flowers collected in complex inflorescences reach eight centimeters in diameter, and the succulent leaves delight the eye for a long time, without turning yellow or fading in the sun. There are a total of nine species of this amazing plant, among which only one is involved in breeding work - climbing kobeya.

Kobeya climbing

This unpretentious plant is characterized by fast growth and a decent selection of suitable colors. two or three pieces are collected, and the leaves have an attractive shape. To ensure growth, it is necessary to organize a sufficiently strong support for the stem, and a fence or stretched mesh can cope with this function.

How to germinate seeds

It is incredibly difficult to purchase suitable shoots of this plant in our area, so many gardeners successfully germinate the plant from seeds. When purchasing, be sure to pay attention to the expiration date of the seed, and also study the necessary conditions for growing. The basic rules are discussed below.

Algorithm for preparing and planting seeds:

1. Seed preparation involves pre-soaking with a weak solution of potassium permanganate (to disinfect and give enough strength to fight diseases). For the same purposes, you can use purchased special solutions, as well as ordinary water.
2. The seed skin is quite dense, so it is recommended to pierce it in several places with a needle for rapid shoot growth.
3. Soaking in water for a day should be enough, so after this period you can plant the seeds.
4. A nutritious mixture of peat or universal soil is prepared in separate pots. You can plant kobeya in a common container, but in this case there is a high risk of damage to the roots during transplantation.
5. It is necessary to bury the seeds no more than 1 - 1.5 centimeters into the soil. After planting, you need to moisten the soil well and place it on a sunny windowsill. If there is a lack of light, it is advisable to provide an alternative source, otherwise the shoots will be weak and thin.
6. After the first branch appears in the container, you need to install a wooden or plastic support. But for watering the plant, it is worth using

In the video - germinating Kobei seeds:

Kobeya grows quite quickly, and there is a risk of tangling of shoots. It is necessary to provide enough space for each seedling, and planting in open ground occurs after warm weather sets in around the end of May. For different climatic conditions, this period may shift, so the main criterion will be the absence of night frosts and sufficient warming of the soil.

Botanical name: Cobaea.

Family. Sinyukhova.

Origin. Peru and Mexico.

Description. Fast growing liana with complex leaves, consisting of 4 - 6 green, bluish-green lanceolate leaves.

The plant has branched mustache, which help him cling to support. The tendrils are located at the top of the stems and are modified leaf blades.

Flowers large, up to 8 cm in diameter, solitary or collected in small axillary inflorescences of 2 - 3 buds, very reminiscent of bells. At first, the flowers have light shades - greenish, white or cream, but as they fade they become darker - blue, pink, purple or burgundy, have a musky aroma. The aroma of flowers intensifies in the evening and night hours.

Flowers are often completely hidden by foliage.

After flowering, kobeya forms quite large, four-leafed seed pods oblong in shape with large seeds. Plants are perennial.

Height. Reaches a height of 10 m in nature. In culture it rarely exceeds 2 m. It develops quickly - shoots reach a height of 5 meters or more in just one season.

2.Growing in open ground

Kobeya is planted in open ground in the form of seedlings - bushes aged 3 - 3.5 months.

Before planting potted plants taken outside during the daytime, gradually increasing the time spent in the fresh air. Such measures the flowers will harden and help them better adapt to new living conditions. When the flowers are outside for 24 hours, you can transplant them into the garden.

Landing is carried out in the morning or evening hours, preferably in cloudy weather. According to the timing, kobeya should be transplanted into the garden in the second half of May or early June- during this period the probability of the last frost occurring is already low.

To grow a flower, you should choose an area protected from strong gusts of wind. The plant will feel great in a well-lit or slightly shaded place. For growing kobei lowlands are not suitable and areas of land with groundwater lying close to the surface.

Plot dig up and clear of weeds. Depending on the planting scheme, prepare planting holes, located at a distance of 0.5 - 1 m from each other. The size of the planting holes should be slightly larger than the root ball of the plants.

If the soil in the garden is too heavy, then add a sufficient amount of river sand to loosen it.

Kobeya develops very quickly and requires increased amounts of nutrients. Additional soil enriched with a good amount of organic matter in the form of humus, cow or horse manure. Manure should be well rotted, since when fresh it can burn the delicate root system of young plants.

If there are no organic fertilizers, then you can add superphosphate granules.

The bushes are removed from old pots and placed in holes, sprinkled with the prepared mixture. When transshipping next to a flower put up a trellis or other support.

After planting, the soil around the vines tamp lightly And watered plants with large amounts of warm water.

To prevent moisture from quickly evaporating from the surface of the soil, the base of the plant cover with a layer of mulch consisting of burnt sawdust, straw, grass clippings or peat.

If the air temperature drops at night below 5°C then the young flowers are worth cover with non-woven material overnight.

Further care of the plants will consist of timely weeding, loosening the soil and watering.

With the beginning of growth, fertilizers with a high content are used nitrogen, since it is this element that allows plants to form a thick green mass. For the onset of flowering, the vines are provided with fertilizers, rich in phosphorus and potassium- they help to form a large number of buds. Feeding is carried out every 2 - 3 weeks. Gives excellent results alternation of organic And mineral fertilizers.

In open ground, kobeya is grown as an annual plant, since it unable to withstand winter frosts.

In order to preserve the plant for the second and subsequent years, before the onset of night frosts, the entire green mass of the vine is cut off at a height of about 10 cm. from the surface of the soil, the rhizomes are dug up and planted in large tubs. Such tubs are stored in a dark, fairly dry and cool place - for example, in the basement.

The air temperature in the basement during storage should be within from 7 to 11 degrees Celsius.

The soil in pots is protected from drying out completely by watering every 3 - 4 weeks.

At the beginning of spring, the tubs are taken out of the basement and placed in a warm place with good lighting, and they also begin to water little by little.

3.Kobeya - planting and care

3.1.Reproduction, growing from seeds

Unfortunately, germination even fresh seeds leave much to be desired and often does not exceed 30%.

Since the surface of the seeds is covered with a very hard shell that prevents germination, pre-sowing treatment is critical.

Seeds sown in early spring, previously soaked them for a few days in warm water. The main difficulty when soaking is the selection of a suitable container - seeds should not come into contact with each other in water.

The seeds are checked 2 - 3 times a day - taken out of the water and with your fingertips clean off the sodden layers of the shell, resembling mucus. If the shell is not completely removed, the seed is again immersed in water.

Instead of a container of water, you can use well-moistened gauze or bandage- cover the container with wet gauze on top to prevent moisture evaporation.

Plant seeds can be kept in damp gauze until each seed appears small spine.

From time to time, in order to prevent mold from appearing in the gauze, it is changed along with the water.

When the planting material is thoroughly cleaned of mucus residues, you can begin sowing.

Sowing of seeds is carried out at the end of winter or beginning of spring. Individual planting will allow you to get by when breeding kobei. without picking- as they grow, small bushes can be carefully transferred to larger pots.

1. For sowing, prepare small plastic cups with a volume of about 0.5 liters, with drainage holes in the bottom.
2. A drainage layer 2-3 cm high is placed at the bottom of the cups.
3. The cups are filled with nutritious and loose substrate consisting of peat and river sand.
4. Before sowing, the substrate is thoroughly moistened using a fine spray bottle.
5. The seeds are laid out on the ground with the flat side down and the convex side up and covered on top with a layer of earth about 1.5 cm thick.
6. Seedlings are kept at a temperature of approximately 18 ° C, germination takes 3 - 4 weeks.

The very first to appear are the sprouts, completely cleared of seeds.

Do not throw away cups with ungerminated seeds - they may germinate within a few months. Until germination, the soil is maintained in cups evenly moist.

The first transshipment is carried out when each plant can boast of real 2 - 3 sheets- This usually occurs around 2 weeks of age.

The bushes are thoroughly watered and removed from the cups, carefully transferred to flower pots of about 3 liters. When transshipping, you should immediately provide flower support.

Do not be afraid of too large a pot - kobeya develops very quickly and will fill the free space of the soil with its roots within a very short period of time.

Plants grown in sufficient quantities form a substrate large fibrous root system with a large number of suction roots, and therefore such specimens will be larger and bloom profusely.

The first buds on plants obtained from seeds are formed 4 - 5 months after sowing.

Kobeya breeds well stem cuttings.

1. Cuttings, about 10 cm long, are taken in the spring from adult plants at least 2 years old.
2. Cuttings are separated with a sharp, sterile instrument in the spring, when the vine shows the first signs of new growth.
3. The cuttings are cut immediately below the leaf node, the lower leaves are removed when planting.
4. Root the cuttings in moist, loose soil using a root formation stimulator.
5. The substrate is made up of peat, humus and river sand, which can account for up to 30 - 50 percent of the total volume of the mixture.
6. The cuttings are immersed 2 - 3 cm in well-moistened, loose soil and thoroughly sprayed with a spray bottle.
7. Young plants are covered with glass to maintain a high level of air humidity.
8. The seedlings are placed in a warm (with a temperature of about 25 degrees Celsius) and well-lit place.

It is worth remembering that the leaves of young plants should not be exposed to direct sunlight.

Unfortunately, plants obtained by cuttings bloom less profusely than those grown from seeds.

You can root cuttings in a glass of water- when the roots reach 2 - 3 cm in length such cuttings can be planted in the substrate.

For some time, such plants will not show signs of growth - their root system will need time to adapt to new conditions.

3.2.When it blooms

July - October. Flowering is very abundant and long lasting with proper care. When grown in open ground, flowering can only be interrupted the onset of frost.

Each individual flower will remain open and attractive for only a few days, but the buds will constantly replace each other.

For flowering to occur, the vine will require compliance with certain rules of agricultural technology.

3.3.Kobeya at home

Long thin stems need support, which the plant will quickly braid.

Periodically pinch the ends of young stems to encourage the development of side shoots. If the leaves hide the flowers, remove them.

To maintain a neat and compact shape cut stems back to a third of their length in February.

Remove drooping flowers to prolong flowering and the appearance of new buds.

Kobeya feels great when grown in a pot, on the balcony.

3.4.Growing conditions - temperature

The plant enjoys the summer heat with ample watering and sufficient air humidity.

In winter, kobeya must be kept at a temperature 7 - 10 ° C. Plants should not be exposed to temperatures below 5°C.

At the beginning of spring, the temperature is gradually increased to 15°C for new growth to emerge. The flower does not tolerate frost.

3.5.Transplant

This vine needs pots quite large volume, because it grows quickly and if it is grown as a perennial plant, it is replanted annually.

The most appropriate time for a transplant is spring- the plant should begin to form new leaves, but there should be no buds on it.

The need to replant young plants will be indicated by the tips of the roots that appear in the drainage holes of the pot.

Since transplanting large tub plants causes difficulties, they annually change the top layer of soil 5 - 7 cm thick. on fresh soil.

If the condition of the plant does not cause concern and it looks strong and healthy, then you can do transshipment- transfer the flower to a new pot along with the old lump of earth. This method of moving causes less damage to the root system - the plant quickly adapts to the new container and begins to bloom.

If there are signs of root rot, then carry out replanting with a complete change of soil.

Root system carefully disassembled and inspected, remove roots damaged by rot, cutting them with sharp pruning shears to healthy tissue.

Flowering plants should not be replanted - wait until flowering is over.

1. To grow kobeya, you should choose pots with large drainage holes.
2. There should be a sufficient drainage layer at the bottom of the pots.
3. The flower is placed in the center of the new container and sprinkled with fresh soil.
4. After transshipment or transplantation, the vine is watered and placed for 7 - 10 days in a place shaded from the sun's rays.

3.6.Fertilizer

During the period of active growth, in spring and summer, feed with regular liquid fertilizer for flowering plants twice a month.

Kobeya reacts well to both mineral, and on organic fertilizers, so it’s worth alternating them.

Humus or cow and horse manure is added as organic matter. You can water the plants with a weak solution of bird droppings.

Apply fertilizers after heavy watering, since contact of a nutrient solution with the roots of a flower in dry soil can lead to a chemical burn.

3.7.Soil

The soil must contain a large amount of organic matter– in the video of peat or humus. The addition of components such as light turf soil and leaf humus will not only serve as additional nutrition, but will also make the soil light and porous, allowing the root system to breathe.

Only well-drained soil is suitable for a flower - for this you should mix it into the soil for maintenance. up to 20 percent river sand, perlite or vermiculite.

3.8. Diseases and pests

• Dry, withered leaves– as a result of lack of moisture or exposure to cold drafts, the plant may even lose some of its leaves.
• If the soil contains excess nitrogen, the plants will increase green mass abundantly to the detriment of bud formation.
• When grown in partial shade flowering will be sparse, and the diameter of the bells will be small.
• Leaves lose turgor and become dry if the soil moisture is insufficient or if the vine is exposed to cold drafts.
• Root rot occurs with insufficient drainage or excessive watering in the cold season. On flowers affected by rot, the leaf blades will have dark spots on the surface.

Among the pests, kobea leaves were liked by such insects as spider mites and aphids.

Insects - pests