Laying tiles on a wooden floor. Tips for laying tiles on wood floors. Is it possible to lay tiles on a wooden floor in a bathroom?

This type of floor finishing material is very popular and there are no serious problems with its installation today.

Fortunately, manufacturers produce a lot of adhesive compositions characterized by high adhesive qualities.

There are, however, difficulties with installation, only in private households.

And the most important ones are the presence of floors made of... Here the question of whether it is possible to lay tiles on a wooden floor is especially acute.

And, if this is possible, then how is this done correctly, what is the emphasis, what nuances should be taken into account, and what should not be done? Detailed instructions and warnings for beginning craftsmen are fully outlined below.

The use of tile flooring in private homes is also justified by the fact that under it you can install a heated water floor or an electric one.

This will save money on paying for, as well as due to a number of advantageous qualities of the material:

• High wear resistance
• Long service life
• Fire resistance
• Tiles can withstand high loads
• Ease of care
• Easy to install

Preliminary work and calculations

After everything has become more or less clear with the choice of material, you need to make the correct calculation of the tiles. There won’t be any particular difficulties in this if you have at least the slightest idea about the costs of laying tiles. And it happens:

• Straightforward
• Diagonally (oblique)
• Herringbone
• With offset

It’s worth focusing a little more specifically on the choice of tiles for a private sector bathroom.

Here preference should be given to non-slip ones. Is it possible to lay tiles on a wooden floor in a bathhouse in principle? You can read more about the installation process below, in the following subsections.

Formulas and nuances of calculating the number of tiles

• calculate the area of ​​the room
• add 7% to the resulting figure
• divide the calculation result by the area of ​​one die
• divide the result by the number of tiles in one package
• round to whole number

If the “diagonal” laying method is chosen, then approximately 12% is added to the final result (for trimming). With the herringbone layout method – 15%. The simplest and most economical is “straightforward”. If a floor with a pattern is laid out, then the materials for it are completely different and more complex.

Proper preparation of wooden floors

This is the most important stage of work, since the quality and final result as a whole depend on it.

There are several ways to prepare a wooden base for laying tiles; the choice of one directly depends on the condition of the floor at the moment.

A wooden floor is a complete structure, not just the upper floorboards.

This includes: joists, beams and underlayment.

And they all need to be double-checked before installation.

Floor check

Experienced craftsmen recommend using exclusively tongue-and-groove boards for new floor coverings, which involves complete disassembly of the structure. Even if, at first glance, the floor looks perfect, it doesn’t make any squeaks, the floorboards are securely fastened and don’t wobble at all.

Note! If the logs are installed at a distance from each other in increments of up to 50 cm, it will need to be additionally redesigned; in this form, it will not be able to withstand the weight of the new flooring.

Algorithm for testing work in a wooden base:

• Floorboards are removed
• Beams and joists are being inspected
• The level checks the evenness and horizontality of supporting structures

If there is no possibility of raising the lag, then a wedge or a piece of wood is driven under it, secured, and the excess is simply trimmed off.

Surface preparation

Wood is an organic material by nature, which means it cannot be considered stable and reliable. When humidity increases, it swells; when there is a lack of it, on the contrary, it dries out and decreases in size.

This raises the question: is it possible to lay tiles on a wooden floor in a private house, given such technical characteristics of the base.

Experienced craftsmen give a positive answer, provided that before installation a damper layer is installed to absorb the movement of the floorboards. Where it turns to the base of the tile with a hard surface, and elastic to the wooden one, taking on the shocks.

Important point! When constructing such a layer, it is important to remember that the wood must breathe, otherwise it will begin to rot or deteriorate from fungus and mold.

What is important to do when treating the floor:

• Treat thoroughly with antiseptics and impregnations
• Fill the distance between the joists with fine expanded clay
• Prepare new or old floorboards
• Important to consider! When using old floorboards, they should be additionally prepared - completely remove the paintwork.
• Lay floorboards on the structure with a gap of 5 mm between them (for expansion)
• If there are cracks or knots on the floorboards, they need to be puttied and sanded
• Sand the coating completely after roughing
• The gaps between the boards are filled with tape or foam
• To organize monolithic insulation, the surface is coated with latex impregnation or heated drying oil.

Lightweight screed device

The third stage of preparatory work is the creation of a solid base for the tiles. It is rational and correct to organize an ordinary monolithic screed, only lightened because the foundation in question cannot withstand a full screed.

In principle, when laying clinker, porcelain stoneware or tiles, three screeds are used:

• Standard monolithic - thickness no more than 3 cm. A reinforcing mesh is laid on the waterproofing layer, secured with self-tapping screws and filled with concrete mortar.
• Liquid glass or KS glue. You can also use polyurethane two-component glue. They are used to create an elastic coating to prevent cracking of tiles from wood movements.

A screed based on liquid glass can be prepared.

To do this, you need to prepare: liquid glass, water and washed coarse sand in proportions respectively - 2: 1: 2.

If the bathhouse in a private house is dry, then the surface of the floors can be leveled with GVL or DSP slabs.

They are laid at an angle of 30 0 C, but so that the joints of the slabs and the joints of the subfloor do not coincide.

The seams can be protected and additionally secured using a special adhesive for drywall.

Key points for installing tiles on wood floors

The entire installation process consists of the following stages: marking, preparing glue, laying and grouting tile joints. We won’t dwell on each one individually this time, but we’ll look at the most important ones right now:

• It would be a good idea to place the tiles on the floor before “setting” them on the glue. This way you can distribute the material as accurately as possible by removing trimmed parts, select a more precise pattern, and so on.
• It is very important to adhere to the line of the window opening when laying. The lines must be strictly parallel to it. To make it easier to keep the seams the same width, you can use crosses in your work.
• To increase the adhesion of the tile base and the floor, you can use a special cement-based adhesive.
• To increase the strength characteristics of the coupling, you can use compositions containing plasticizers or add them to the glue yourself at the rate of no more than 15% of the total mass of the glue.
• It is important to remember that the glue must be used completely within three hours.
• The working surface (the area where the glue is applied) should not be too large - optimally one meter square.
• If errors are made during installation, they must be corrected within 10 minutes, otherwise it will be impossible - the glue will begin to stick.

Important point! You need to start laying from the farthest corner, moving towards the doors, focusing on the center lines.

The only and nevertheless important disadvantage of laying tiles on a wooden floor is its fragility, but with proper care it is guaranteed to serve as a reliable and durable base for 7 years.

Despite its fragility, this is the most optimal solution to the immediate problem of organizing flooring. Moreover, there are no particular difficulties or problems in installation. The main thing is to properly prepare the wooden base, and everyone who reads the material will know how to do this.

About laying tiles on wooden bases - in the video:

Laying tiles on a wooden base presents a number of difficulties. First of all, this is the tendency of wood to deform, which makes the ceramic coating unreliable and short-lived.

But there is a technology that allows you to finish a wooden floor with the least effort and a stable result. All the subtleties and possible difficulties of the process will be discussed in this article.

Features of wood floors

Construction industry experts say that tiles do not combine well with wood flooring for the following reasons:

• wood responds subtly to changes in external factors - it expands at high humidity and dries out at low humidity. As a result, the tile covering may become cracked and peel off from the boards;
• wood quickly deteriorates and has low performance properties. After its destruction, the still usable tiles have to be dismantled;
• tiles laid with water-repellent adhesive prevent the penetration of oxygen into the floor, which is necessary for wood for long service. All this leads to rapid deterioration of both the floor and the ceramics;
• wooden floors cannot withstand significant loads. The lightest tile for facing should be chosen.

Advice! It is allowed to begin tiling the wooden flooring only after 2 years have passed after the initial installation of the floor.

Thus, when laying tiles, at least 3 conditions must be met:

• ensure free circulation of oxygen and its access to the floorboards;
• distribute the planned loads evenly over the entire floor area;
• create a flat, strong base on top of the boards, which will ensure immobility and will firmly hold the tile.

Selection of adhesive composition

For work on wooden bases, only special types of adhesives are suitable, which contain components with high elasticity. They must withstand the linear expansion of the boards, preventing the tiles from moving from the base and cracking.

These parameters correspond to the products of the following brands:

• Unis – super elastic adhesive and super polymer;
• Knauf Flex;
• Ceresit CM17, etc.

If a concrete screed was made on top of the floorboards, it is permissible to use a classic mortar based on sand and cement.

Among the non-standard methods offered by folk craftsmen, we can mention liquid nails and liquid glass (silicate glue)

In some cases, homemade mixtures of nitrocellulose varnish with polystyrene foam dissolved in gasoline or acetone are becoming popular.

Important! When using homemade glue, there is no guarantee that the cladding will last long and be strong.

Choosing tiles

The floor should be tiled with anti-slip tiles. Matte textured varieties of floor tiles with a corrugated or rough surface are perfect.

You will have to discard thick tiles - a wooden floor is not resistant to high loads. The same applies to large-area ceramic elements - their installation will require more glue or mortar, which means the facing layer will be more massive.

It is better to opt for thick but light floor tiles, which will match the color and design of the main style of the room.

It should be taken into account that large tiles in small bathrooms will visually reduce and conceal the space.

Preparation of tools and materials

Set of tools:

• tape measure and ruler;
• building level;
• marking tape;
• stationery knife;
• electric drill with attachments and screwdriver;
• tile cutter;
• hacksaw;
• spatulas - regular and serrated;
• containers for mixing solutions;
• galvanized screws;
• crosses for tiles;
• rule.

List of materials:

• wood - boards, plywood, floorboards in sufficient quantities;
• waterproofing - any of your choice;
• damper tape;
• polyurethane foam;
• drying oil;
• sealant;
• antifungal and latex impregnation;
• adhesive for laying tiles or components for preparing mortar (cement, sand, water, additives);
• grout for seams.

Preparing the wooden base

Before starting the main stage of work, it is necessary to carefully inspect and evaluate the condition of the wood base. Beams, joists, boards and insulation may contain areas of rot and wood-boring beetle larvae.

All detected defects must be corrected. If the boards do not creak or bend when walking on them, you can move on to the next stage. Otherwise, the wooden floor will have to be rebuilt.

Aligning and handling elements

First, you should check the geometry of the log with a building level. They can be laid with errors, not on a horizontal plane, which will result in distortions and deformation of the ceramic coating.

Elements that have strayed from the general plane should be aligned - lowered or raised. If leveling cannot be achieved in this way, you can attach additional boards to the joists to achieve the optimal height.

Important! If the floor with distortions is made without joists, a new screed or sheets of plywood laid in a thin layer over the floorboards will help eliminate the errors.

Since wood is susceptible to rotting and fungal attack, all elements of the floor structure will have to be treated with special solutions with antiseptic and antifungal properties.

For this purpose, use a special impregnation intended for damp rooms, or mastic with similar properties.

Hot drying oil copes well with the task of protecting wood from damage. It is applied in several layers until the solution stops being absorbed into the material, but no more than 5 times.

Each subsequent layer is applied after the previous one has dried - as soon as it stops being sticky.

Expanded clay and installation of floorboards

When arranging a floor covering with joists, it is necessary to strictly observe the step between them. It should not exceed 50 cm, otherwise the required strength and durability of the installation will not be achieved.

A technological gap of 1 cm is left between the wall and the joists, which will subsequently be sealed with damper tape.

As soon as the impregnated elements have dried, you can begin pouring fine-grained expanded clay. It is ideal for constructing a dry floor screed.

Reference! Expanded clay is a lightweight porous building material made from thermally treated clay. Voids are formed in the clay, which give the final material strength and high thermal insulation properties.

Expanded clay is used to fill the entire space between the joists, leaving a 5-centimeter gap on top for complete air circulation and removal of condensation. The rough base for the tiles will be floorboards made of thick waterproof plywood or old boards.

The boards will first have to be prepared - remove the paint coating with special removers, dry with a hairdryer and treat with a sanding machine.

Flooring and finishing of floorboards

When arranging the rough flooring, sheets of plywood or boards must be laid so that there are small gaps between them - about 3-5 mm.

If this condition is not met, the boards will begin to expand under the influence of high humidity in the bathroom, even with a waterproofing layer. The result will be deformation of the subfloor, and subsequently the finished tiled cladding.

The rough flooring is secured with galvanized self-tapping screws, and all holes are closed with putty.

If necessary, the finished substrate is processed again - it is sanded, leveled with a grinding machine or an electric drill with an emery attachment.

Technological gaps around the perimeter of the bathroom must be filled with polyurethane foam, and the board covering must be treated with latex impregnation. It will thoroughly fill all the cracks and serve as additional protection against moisture.

Latex is applied in two layers and covered with waterproof putty on top.

Arrangement of a waterproofing layer

You can install waterproofing immediately after using latex impregnation, without waiting for it to harden. The waterproofing layer has important functional significance, so you should not neglect the basic nuances and principles of its arrangement.

Damping layer

Any rolled materials can be used as a waterproofing layer:

• parchment;
• glassine;
• bitumen paper;
• paraffin paper;
• thick polyethylene.

The materials are laid overlapping and secured with tape. For better protection, it is necessary that the layer extends at least 10 cm onto the walls.

To prevent deformation and moisture penetration, a layer of damper tape is used. It withstands temperature changes typical for a bathroom, prevents heat loss and reduces noise.

But the shock-absorbing properties of the damper tape are of particular value - it compensates for possible movements of the floorboards and fixes the coating.

Important! To maximize the compensation effect, the tape is laid on the subfloor with the elastic surface and the hard surface facing the ceramic tile side.

Performing a screed

In most cases, the tiles are laid on a screed made of cement.

To make the layer as strong as possible, the screed should be reinforced with a reinforced mesh - it is laid on top of the waterproofing layer. Then the beacons are set according to the level and the solution is filled with a layer of cement mortar 3 to 5 cm thick.

Other types of screed solutions

In addition to cement mortar, other mixtures are used to form the screed to create a rigid base for the tiles. These include:

• polymer screed - floor covering based on epoxy resins or acrylic. With a minimum layer (6 mm or more), the polymer coating is very durable, resistant to stress, with excellent thermal insulation and waterproofing properties.
  Unlike cement screed, the polymer shrinks little, which makes it possible to achieve a monolithic and tight layer without technological seams;
• universal construction adhesive - known as liquid glass, or silicate glue. Suitable for use in damp areas due to its good waterproofing properties. If desired, a universal screeding agent can be made on your own. To do this, silicate glue, coarse sand and water must be mixed in a ratio of 2:2:1, respectively;
• polyurethane adhesive is a one-component or two-component mixture of increased viscosity, ductility and strength.

  It has high permeability provided that the rough surface is thoroughly prepared and cleaned.

  You need to work with polyurethane glue very quickly - the product sets within half an hour.

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Moisture-resistant plasterboard and cement-bonded particle boards

These materials can also be used as a screed or substrate, but with great care. They demonstrate excellent performance only in rooms with low humidity levels, so experienced professionals do not recommend them for bathroom renovations.

If you decide to use these materials to make a screed, you need to lay them out correctly.

The slabs are laid according to the “staggered” pattern, where each subsequent row is shifted relative to the previous one by half the slab.

Externally, the scheme resembles brickwork, but it should be noted that the sheets are laid at an angle of 30° relative to the laying of the floorboards.

There should be gaps of several millimeters between the joints, which are subsequently filled with waterproof putty for drywall. The edges of the sheets are insulated to protect against moisture penetration.

Laying tiles

The flooring process is carried out in several stages:

Reference! You can start grouting the laid tiles after 24 hours.

• The coating will last longer if the tiles are laid after the impregnations, sealants and other viscous materials have completely dried.
• It is better to adjust the tiles near the walls with a tile cutter, which will create more accurate outlines. This will not work with a glass cutter and wire cutters.
• When laying tiles, you need to monitor the thickness of the applied mortar layer, otherwise the surface will turn out bumpy.
• For convenience, it is better to divide the room into zones (squares) and tile each of them in turn.
• Extruded propylene foam can be used as insulating material between the joists.

Overview of methods

Tile has long been considered a good facing material. It is used today in commercial and residential construction. There are many types of tiles.

It can compete with any coating with its patterns, textures, colors and other external characteristics. Its main advantage is wear resistance, excellent fire-resistant and water-repellent properties.

Laying tiles on a wooden floor

Tile is most often used for bathroom or kitchen tiling. Craftsmen increasingly began to use it in work and living spaces. Is it safe to lay ceramic tiles on a wooden floor, and how effective is it?

Many tile manufacturers state that their products cannot be laid on wood. A plank base does not guarantee strength and rigidity for the structure.

If the moving wooden floor begins to rot, the concrete screed on it will begin to crack in a situation where the boards begin to sag. Then the tiles will collapse, and cracks will begin to appear in the floor.

Now new techniques are emerging that make it possible to lay tiles on wooden floors. In this technique, the quality of base preparation plays an important role.

Preparing a wooden floor for tiles

At the beginning of the work process of laying a new floor over the old floor, an important point is the correction of defects and shortcomings that the old coating has. The key point when choosing tiles is a wooden base with a high level of rigidity and strength.

Floor preparation

The process of preparing a wooden floor can be divided into the following stages:

• First, the entire wooden floor must be sorted out; boards that have flaws, rotten or cracked, must be removed. The frequency of installation of logs must correspond to their load-bearing capacity. The weight of the floor together with the tiles will increase several times.
• After disassembling and reassembling the floor, you should check its evenness. We use a level capable of measuring the horizontalness of the log. When performing such a check, you need to leave 10 mm gaps between the rough base and the walls. These gaps are insulated with polyurethane foam. To make the floor durable, expanded clay is used, which will increase the energy efficiency of the floor and will be an excellent sound insulator.
• Then the wooden base is laid. You can use boards in good condition, plywood with a thickness of at least 12 mm. This plywood is well suited for a tiled floor as a base and can support its weight.
• All remaining rough coating and joists should be treated with special chemical impregnations, which will clean them from rot and fungus.
• We fix the plywood and boards, providing ventilation due to the presence of gaps between them, up to 5 mm wide.
• Waterproofing made of bitumen, parchment or polyethylene film is laid on top of the rough base.

Installing the base under the tiles

Laying tiles on a wooden base

There are three ways to install under the base tile. Each of them has its own technology:

• The first case is to use a conventional screed, which is lightweight and thin. For this, a metal mesh is used, attached with self-tapping screws to the subfloor using beacons. Then the cement screed is poured, its thickness is approximately 3 mm. It is permissible to use a self-leveling screed.
• The second case involves the use of a base made of polyurethane glue with a liquid glass base. After drying, it forms excellent moisture insulation. Such joints are suitable for laying tiles on top of a wooden floor. It can support a lot of weight.
• The third case is the installation of cement bonded particleboard, moisture-resistant gypsum fiber or plasterboard for waterproofing. It is recommended to use gypsum fiber from these materials. This material is characterized by insulating properties, ductility and greater strength. The flooring is attached to the subfloor using self-tapping screws. It is important to avoid overlapping floor elements and plaster joints. The seams of the base are glued with special means. Then the slabs or sheets should be covered with a soil base until completely dry. This option is good when laying tiles on a wooden floor in a wooden house.

Laying stages

When the base for the tiles is prepared, it is necessary to check its horizontalness with a building level. Then the tiles are laid.

Installation steps:

1. Preparatory work.
2. Marking.
3. Sticking.
4. Laying.

Preparatory work consists of correctly calculating the amount of material. Often up to 10% of the space reserve is taken into account, in comparison with the total area of ​​the room. It is important that at this stage the purchased ceramic tiles are actually floor tiles and not wall tiles. These two types of tiles are similar to each other, but weak wall tiles are not suitable for flooring. It also does not have an anti-slip effect.

Then the tiles should be laid out in the room over the entire area in order to evaluate the appearance of the future floor externally and determine the locations for pipe openings and other communications.

It is necessary to check whether the height of the new floor allows for opening the doors. Otherwise, you will have to change the height of the doors, rehang them on higher hinges before installing the tiles on the wooden floor.

So that there is no air in the tile, it is soaked in water for 15 minutes. If the tile cannot withstand this procedure and stains form on it, then the surface of the tile should be cleaned with a damp brush.

Marking and preparing glue

It is necessary to mark in such a way that fewer cut tiles have to be used when placing them near the walls. When laying diagonally, you will have to cut a lot of tiles, and laying along the wall is carried out, starting work from the opposite side to the entrance of the room.

If, according to the design decision, a special pattern is assumed, then it is necessary to act according to this plan. It is important to take into account the requirements for optimal floor height, communications and other preparatory nuances.

Then the glue is prepared. Tiles are laid on a wooden floor using special cement adhesive. To make it, use ordinary water, purchased dry powder and a certain amount of plasticizers.

Such mixtures have a short drying period (no more than 4 hours), so the glue must be used immediately or prepared in small portions. To ensure a high-quality glue consistency and good installation, it can be mixed with a construction mixer.

Apply the glue in even stripes using a notched trowel. Application begins in the center of the room, in one of the corners. For each size of tile used, you must select separate trowel sizes. The spatula teeth should have a size that is 30 to 40 times smaller than the width of the tile.

The glue dries in a fairly short time (about 15 minutes), so it should be applied to approximately 1 square meter of area, and the tiles should be laid immediately.

Laying on a wooden floor

Features of adhesive for laying tiles on wood

When the tile is laid on a wooden floor, it should be pressed into the adhesive using a rubber hammer. The seal is sealed with light blows. Each surface area of ​​the treated edges must be covered with tiles. Then another area of ​​the room or the next square meter is processed.

First, whole pieces of tiles are laid on a wooden floor. Then they begin to fill the free space near the walls. The required pieces of tile can be cut with a special tile cutter.

After installation, the floor is cleaned with a rag to remove any remaining adhesive. Wait for it to dry for two days, then seal the seam joints. They are rubbed with fugues, which gives the floor a more aesthetic appearance.

The fugue is applied with a rubber spatula using diagonal movements. All seams must be filled, then the remaining fugue must be removed. After 30 minutes, the fugue will dry, and the floor should be wiped with a damp cloth, and after 1 hour - with flannel. After this, the tile floor on the wooden floor is ready.

The coating is completely identical to the tiled one, which is laid on a concrete screed. It is sufficiently durable if no mistakes were made when processing boards, plywood and joists. Treated wood can serve for a long time as a base under a tile covering. It also guarantees good thermal insulation.

Impregnation of a wooden floor, the use of special compounds and expanded clay improve the reliability of the tile covering, which eliminates its own shortcomings. Even the simplest floor will be an excellent base for laying floor tiles on wood.

For a long time, tiles have been used as a facing material. This natural finishing material has gained wide popularity due to such important properties as strength, wear resistance, moisture resistance and fire resistance. If earlier the scope of tiles did not extend beyond the bathroom and kitchen, today many people want to see tiles as flooring in other rooms of the house or apartment. Often during the renovation process the question arises: is it possible to lay tiles on a wooden floor?

According to technology, it is not recommended to lay tiles on a wooden floor. It is believed that such a structure does not have rigidity and is not hard enough, so it will be movable. As a result, the cement screed laid on a wooden floor will quickly collapse, and the tiles will crack or fall off. In addition, the wooden base under the tiles can quickly rot. But do not rush to despair: today new technologies and modern materials have appeared that make it possible to easily solve the problem of laying ceramic tiles on a wooden floor. The most important point in this matter is the quality preparation of the foundation.

Preliminary preparation of a wooden base

Where to start this work? The primary task is to correct the imperfections of the wooden floor, as a result of which it will acquire rigidity, hardness and strength.

Preparing a wooden base for tiles

A reliable base will be the key to the durability of the ceramic tile coating. Checking the condition of the wooden floor:

• We remove the existing coating. If the boards do not creak or sag, we leave them as a base. But it’s still better to go through them, because it is possible that the logs were not laid often enough or not to the level.
• We check the horizontality of the logs using a level, and if necessary, level them. It is important to obtain an absolutely flat surface. Don’t forget to leave a 1 cm gap between the walls and the subfloor, which we then waterproof with polyurethane foam. We pour expanded clay between the joists, which will additionally perform the function of heat and sound insulation. We lay previously removed boards (provided they are in satisfactory condition) or moisture-resistant plywood 12 mm thick on the leveled joists. Plywood is suitable as a base under the tiles: it will not bend under its weight.
• To protect joists and subfloors from mold and rot, we treat them with special protective impregnations.
• We fasten boards or sheets of plywood to the joists with self-tapping screws, leaving 5 mm wide gaps between them for ventilation from below, so that the wood “breathes.”
• To prevent moisture from getting from the earthen, concrete or wooden base onto the substrate, we lay vapor or waterproofing (polyethylene or parchment or bitumen paper) on the subfloor. We can also use special mastics.

Methods for installing a base for tiles

First way. We make a traditional screed, only thinner and lighter. We lay a metal mesh on the waterproofing, which we attach to the subfloor with self-tapping screws. We set the beacons according to the level, pour a cement screed 3 mm thick. You can use a self-leveling mortar instead of a screed.

Second way. We strengthen the base with two-component polyurethane glue or KS glue (its base is liquid glass). When the glue dries, a waterproofing film forms on the top of the subfloor. Manufacturers claim that these compounds protect the tiles from cracking if the wooden base is deformed. Since this method is not yet so widespread, it is difficult to judge its reliability. Of course, it is better to build a rigid, solid foundation. But if this is not possible, you can get out of the situation with the help of polyurethane compounds.

Third way . We lay CSP (cement particle boards), GKLV (sheets of moisture-resistant plasterboard) or GVL (gypsum fiber sheets) on the waterproofing. GVL sheets are more preferable, since they are more plastic and stronger than plasterboard, and also lighter and cheaper than CBPB boards. In addition, GVL are distinguished by increased sound and heat insulating characteristics, and a special hydrophobic impregnation makes them moisture resistant.

We attach the sheets to the subfloor with self-tapping screws. It is necessary to ensure that the joints between the sheets fall above the boards, and not above the cracks, otherwise the base will be unstable. We glue the seams with special glue for gypsum fiber board or gypsum board. If the floor does not seem rigid enough, lay a second layer, making sure that the seams of the second layer are located in the middle of the sheets of the first layer.

Laying plywood sheets on a wooden base

The sheets were laid and secured. Now we cover them with deep penetration soil. We wait for it to dry and begin laying the tiles.

Laying tiles on a wood floor step by step

Tiles are laid on a wooden floor only after checking the surface level. We do this using a building level. If the surface is perfectly flat, there are no deviations, then you can proceed directly, which consists of the steps listed below:

• Preparing the tiles
• Floor marking
• Preparation of the adhesive composition
• Laying tiles
• Sealing seams

For installation you will need the following tools:

• notched spatula for applying glue;
• rubber spatula for sealing seams;
• tile cutter or glass cutter;
• containers for glue and grout;
• rubber hammer for tapping tiles;
• tape measure, level and marking cord.

When working with glue, you definitely need gloves to protect your finger pads.

Preparing the tiles

Before laying, lay out the tiles, check their quality and appearance

1. We calculate how many tiles are needed. To do this, divide the floor area of ​​the room where we will lay the tiles by the area of ​​1 tile. We add 10% to the result obtained for a possible fight and for pruning. When purchasing tiles, it is important not to confuse wall and floor tiles. Although they look similar, floor tiles are still more durable, and their surface undergoes a special treatment to give it an anti-slip effect.
2. We lay out the tiles over the entire area and control their appearance and quality. We make holes in the tiles that will be laid near the pipes in accordance with the diameter of these pipes.
3. You need to make sure that the pre-laid tiles do not interfere with the doors opening. Otherwise, remove the door from its hinges and trim it along the bottom.
4. To displace air from the tile, lower it into water for 15-20 minutes. Sometimes stains form on its front side under the influence of water. We do not soak such tiles in water, but simply wipe them from the inside with a moistened brush.

Floor marking

Using a coated cord, we draw a line connecting the middles of the long walls. We connect the middles of the short walls with the same line. The lines intersect in the center of the floor. Focusing on them, we lay out the tiles in such a way that there are a minimum of cut tiles near the walls.

Floor marking diagram for laying tiles

If we lay tiles diagonally, it will be impossible to avoid cutting the tiles. When laying entire tiles along the walls, we begin work from the end of the floor opposite to the entrance to the room. The window line should be parallel to the tile line. We can also arrange rows perpendicular to each other along the axes. By inserting crosses between the tiles, we determine the distance of the seams.

Preparation of the adhesive composition

It is recommended to lay tiles on a wooden base using a special cement adhesive. Mix the dry mixture with water (take the amount of water in accordance with the manufacturer’s recommendations). To increase the adhesion of the tiles to the adhesive solution, add 10-15% plasticizers to it. We prepare small portions of the adhesive composition, since the mixture dries in 3-4 hours. To obtain a homogeneous composition, stir it using a construction mixer.

The adhesive solution is mixed using a construction mixer

Important! When choosing tile adhesive, you need to pay attention to whether it is suitable for

works on gypsum fiber boards or gypsum boards.

Apply the adhesive composition with a notched trowel onto the primed, dry floor surface. Apply the glue in even stripes, starting from any corner in the center of the room. The size of the trowel teeth depends on the size of the tile (for example, for tiles measuring 30x30 cm, you will need a trowel with teeth ranging from 8 mm to one centimeter). The finished adhesive solution dries in 10-15 minutes, so we apply it to a small area (no more than 1 m2) and quickly carry out corrective actions.

Attention! In the process of laying tiles, it is extremely important to adhere to the recommendations of manufacturers not only of ceramic tiles, but also of the materials used - adhesive mixtures, grouts, mastics, primers.

Laying tiles

We applied the adhesive solution, formed the structure of the floor using crosses evenly spaced over the entire surface, and then we can move on to directly laying the tiles on the wooden base. We apply the tile to the surface, press it, and tap it lightly with a rubber hammer to improve the fit. In this way, we cover the entire surface, which was previously treated with glue, with tiles, and only then move on to the next section. To ensure that the distances between the tiles are the same, we use plastic spacers.

Laying tiles on a wooden floor - checking the surface level

During the work, we constantly monitor the level of the laid tiles using a rule or a building level, since after 10 minutes, when the glue dries, the position of the tiles that were laid incorrectly can no longer be corrected. If necessary, add or reduce the adhesive solution under the tiles.

After all the intact tiles have been laid out, we begin to fill the free spaces between the floor and walls. We cut pieces of tiles to the required sizes using a special tile cutter.

Important! At thresholds, walls and around pipes, the edge cut tiles should fit snugly into place, but do not require any force when laying them.

When we have finished laying the tiles over the entire surface of the floor, we clean it with a rag from excess glue. After two days, the tiles will hold as firmly as possible. Then we proceed to the final stage - sealing the seams.

Sealing seams

Correctly sealing the seams of floor tiles gives the finish an aesthetic appearance and effectively hides possible installation flaws.

The gaps formed during the laying process between the tiles are filled with special grouts (grouts). Most grouts are designed for joints up to 6 mm wide. First, we moisten the seams with a brush, and then apply the grout with diagonal movements with a special rubber spatula.

Attention! Instead of traditional grout, experts recommend using a new product for sealing joints - elastic colored silicone.

We fill all the gaps between the tiles in this way, removing excess fugue. The seams dry in 20 to 30 minutes. When this time has expired, carefully wipe the tiles with a damp cloth, and after an hour - with a dry flannel cloth. The work is done.

If you show interest in this matter, you can make sure that laying tiles on a wooden floor covered with chipboard, plywood, gypsum fiber board or gypsum fiber board is possible and it is not so difficult.

Porcelain tiles and tiles are traditionally considered the best flooring for toilets, hallways and baths. Laying tiles on a wooden floor is much more difficult than laying tiles on a concrete floor. This guide covers options for subflooring and tongue-and-groove tiles.

Laying tiles on a wooden floor yourself is dangerous if you make mistakes. The home handyman should take into account the following nuances:

The main problems of incompatibility of wood, tile adhesive and tiles are as follows:

• the service life of plywood, tongue and groove, chipboard and OSB is lower than that of tiles, so the maintainability of the structure is very low;
• internal stresses in wood cause warping and other deformations;
• the rigidity of hardened tile adhesive and porcelain stoneware/tile cladding is by default higher than that of wood-containing slabs, tongue and groove boards;
• in beam-based floors, a wooden subfloor is practically the only structural solution;
• in the secondary housing stock, wooden floors are made along joists on top of the slab floor; in this case, the design should be simplified by dismantling the floorboards and joists and pouring screed for tiling.

The tiles are glued to the wooden floor using special compounds of increased plasticity. However, the developer will not receive 100% guarantees in any case:

• the wood may dry out or warp, that is, change linear or spatial dimensions;
• when a less durable base bends, a thin layer of tile adhesive will crack or split, and the tile will fly off.

To ensure the basic condition - the rigidity of the subfloor is higher than that of the finishing coating, several methods are used for the specified operating conditions:

Cladding technology

The most difficult method for gluing porcelain tiles onto a tongue and groove, the simplest is screeding with a self-leveling floor over sheets of fiber board, which is easy to tile. It should be remembered that for the safety of rooms adjacent to the bathroom at the time of possible flooding, the height of the finishing coating in them should be higher, at least 2 cm.

The floor level in the bathroom should be 20 mm lower than in the corridor.

The conflict between wooden structures and ceramic cladding on top of them is caused by the following factors:

Therefore, the service life of load-bearing beams and wooden decking is sharply reduced.

Subfloor tiles

If the project includes beam floors, a lining is attached to these supporting structures at a lower level. Insulating materials and insulation are laid on it as needed, then the subfloor is laid.

A budget option is flooring made from edged boards, but in order to lay tiles on top of the subfloor, it is better to increase the construction budget and make the subfloor from board materials (plywood, OSB, DSP). The number of seams will be reduced, the stability of the geometry and the overall service life of the structure will increase.

Due to the high humidity of bathrooms, dry screed as a base for laying tiles on a wooden floor is not the best option:

• expanded clay sand is highly hygroscopic, and cannot evaporate accumulated moisture through a waterproof lining (dangerous in case of leakage);
• the structure has a significant weight, and accordingly puts a lot of stress on the wooden floor beams.

However, the practice of operating such structures exists, so you need to know how to properly make it yourself. The technique consists of several operations:

Advice! To correctly lay the flooring, you should take into account the placement of plumbing fixtures, the geometry of the room and the format of the tiles. Either a solid tile or pieces larger than half its size must be adjacent to the walls to ensure a normal bathroom interior.

Gluing with a special mixture

Most leading manufacturers of dry mixes have special compositions of increased elasticity for decorating wooden load-bearing structures with tiles. The most popular products:

• Lacrysil – packaged in red buckets;
• Kreps – modification of Super;
• Litocol – Litoflex K81 or Superflex K77;
• Ceresite – mixture SM-17.

You can lay tiles on two-component mixtures based on polyurethane resins Bona R770, Utsin MK-92, Stauf PUK 440 or Kiilto Slim. They have high adhesion to both the bottom layer of wood and the top layer of ceramic tiles. However, the lifespan of these compositions is short; they should be diluted little by little in order to have time to develop a solution before setting begins.

Advice! It is not recommended to glue tiles to wood with regular tile adhesive, as it is intended exclusively for mineral substrates.

The technology for laying tiles on a subfloor is as follows:

• sealing the seams of plywood, chipboard, fiberboard with putty;
• applying special tile adhesive to the base;
• leveling the pastel with a notched spatula;
• laying tiles using SVP systems or standard crosses.

Typically, solid cladding elements are installed according to the layout diagram. The next day the pieces are trimmed and laid. Then the seams are grouted and the baseboards are installed and attached to the walls.

The flatness and horizontality of the base is leveled with lags. Small defects are hidden with tile adhesive. There is no need to additionally putty the surface of the subfloor. First you need to get rid of creaks and replace beams/joists if necessary.

Unlike most wood-based boards used to make subfloors, OSB is coated with wax. This creates additional costs for the developer - the impregnation will have to be cleaned off with an angle grinder, the adhesion of the base to the tile adhesive artificially increased, and this layer will have to be reinforced with a polymer mesh. Therefore, it is worth choosing DSP/chipboard or plywood.

Tile on a tongue and groove board

The technology of decorating tongue and groove tiles is very complex due to the following nuances:

Advice! A layer of self-leveling floor, glue and cladding will dramatically increase the structural loads on the wooden floor beams. It is highly desirable to make a new calculation for the deflection and load-bearing capacity of structural elements using the method of rigidly clamped single-span beams.

Revision and strengthening

Before gluing tiles to a wooden floor, it is imperative to inspect the supporting structures:

• add joists to reduce the distance between them and/or increase the thickness of the floorboards;
• eliminate creaking, tighten screws or add additional fasteners to the existing structure;
• replace vapor barrier and insulation materials if necessary;
• pull together the tongue-and-groove board to eliminate gaps;
• remove the paintwork completely with a sander;
• treat the tongue with an antiseptic or fire-bioprotectant (the composition additionally includes a fire retardant that increases fire resistance).

Initially, only the first, every fourth and last row of floorboards are attached to the joists. After tightening with self-tapping screws, all boards are fixed to the joists.

More details were said about laying tongue and groove boards.

Self-leveling floor

To level the plank flooring in a wooden house, budget modifications of a cement-based self-leveling floor are used. They have self-leveling properties, which makes working with these compounds easier. The main nuances of the technology are:

To walk on liquid solution, paint shoes with needle soles are used.

Unlike a wet concrete screed, the minimum thickness of which is 3 cm, self-leveling floors can be leveled to zero. However, separating layers made of hydro- and vapor barrier films, sound insulation and insulation are prohibited.

Decorating with tiles

Regardless of whether the tiles are laid on a wooden base or screed, you should adhere to standard cladding technology:

Advice! It is better to install floor plumbing on top of tiles. This will reduce the amount of trimming, provide an even, solid base, and preserve the seam pattern.

Since the height of the flooring in bathrooms is lower than in adjacent rooms, the tiles are laid close to the door frame. There is no interface with other facing materials; no threshold or plinth is needed.

Thus, tiles in rooms with high humidity can be laid independently, either on a wooden subfloor or on tongue and groove floorboards. In this case, the given recommendations of specialists should be followed to ensure maximum service life.

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