Do-it-yourself water heating boiler. Do-it-yourself heating boiler: drawings and standard designs. Boiler type selection

The center of the heating system in a private house is a heating boiler. It is he who releases energy, which is later converted, enters the coolant and heats the heating radiators. In this article we will tell you how to make a heating boiler with your own hands, how to weld a boiler for heating a private house, and also provide drawings and photo instructions.

Types of heating boilers

Before starting the independent manufacture of the boiler, it is necessary to determine its type, which depends on the type of fuel heated by the coolant. If desired, you can build a boiler that runs on any fuel. You can find the necessary information on the Internet resources. However, before making a choice, it is worth having an idea about the advantages and disadvantages of the most famous of them.

1. Gas boilers for heating. You should not try to make this type with your own hands, as there are a lot of requirements for them that you are unlikely to be able to satisfy. Well, no less important reason is the high probability of an explosion during operation. Installation of a gas boiler is prohibited in the basement of the house.
2. To make an electric boiler, you do not need professional skills and the availability of many materials. It should be noted a huge drawback - high prices for electricity. This is ideal for occasional heating of a country house, but for permanent use, an electric boiler is very expensive.
3. A liquid fuel boiler is quite suitable for do-it-yourself manufacturing, but the cost of fuel and the features of setting the nozzles can cause considerable difficulties in the course of work.
4. Among all the options listed, the most optimal can be called a solid fuel boiler, which can be successfully used as firewood.

Everyone knows that firewood has a high combustion rate, and therefore does not have time to heat the room to the desired temperature at the initial efficiency. In order to optimize this process, it is worth considering two ways to independently build solid fuel boilers.

Pyrolysis version of the boiler

A boiler of this type is adapted for burning wood, its additional name is a gas-generating boiler. The essence of his work is that the combustion of firewood and the volatile substances emerging from them is carried out separately. Thanks to the pyrolysis process, such boilers manage to maintain the optimal temperature regime of the heat carrier for a period of 6 to 12 hours without adding firewood.

The operation of the pyrolysis boiler cannot be carried out without electrical energy, which ensures the operation of the fan that supports the combustion process in a forced way.

The dimensions of such structures are 1.5 × 0.75 × 1.7 m. The volume of the water tank is 500 liters with a power output of 50 kW. Installation dimensions can vary according to individual needs.

As a rule, for self-manufacturing of the structure, you will need a steel sheet with a thickness of 4-6 mm, a cast-iron sheet of 1 cm, a steel pipe with a wall thickness of 4 mm, welding electrodes and a welding machine. Also stock up on a centrifugal fan, a grate that matches the size of the combustion chamber, an automatic temperature control device, asbestos sheet and sealing cord.

At the end of the manufacturing process, the heating boiler must be tied up with your own hands in compliance with the technological requirements.

Pellet type boiler

This type of boiler plant is more automated and less whimsical in maintenance during operation. Pellets are granulated wood, for the manufacture of which sawdust and shavings are used. Since this material is free-flowing, they are fed into the combustion chamber automatically using an auger, or hopper.

You may have difficulty in making such a boiler due to the lack of certain electrical equipment: an electric motor to operate the auger, or a bunker gate.

The operation of the pellet boiler is carried out in such a way that there is no need for kindling or adding fuel. This is affected by the dimensions of the bunker. Thanks to the principle of operation of the boiler plant, it is possible to control the amount of heat generated, due to the amount of pellets fed into the furnace.

These two types of boilers are optimal for hand-made production. Which one to choose is up to you. This is determined by many factors, the main of which is the need for heat and the availability of a certain type of fuel that you will use.

In any case, it is necessary to strictly follow the technology and observe safety rules.

Video

See how you can make a long-burning boiler yourself:

This video demonstrates a mine-type solid fuel boiler with a heat accumulator:

Schemes and drawings

A photo

All self-made heating boilers are based on a general principle: the fuel, burning in it, heats the heat exchanger. He is the coolant, as which the vast majority of home craftsmen choose water.

The scheme of operation of such a boiler and its appearance directly depend on two main factors: what materials are available and what kind of fuel is the cheapest in your area.

The efficiency of a homemade boiler depends on:

• The design of your heat exchanger - the larger the available area of ​​direct thermal contact of the tank with the coolant and the furnace, the more heat the coolant receives per unit time.
• The completeness of combustion of the fuel used - if, together with the resulting combustion products, pyrolysis gas flies into the pipe, after burning it, you can significantly increase the efficiency, and the oxygen supply to the combustion site is insufficient - the design needs to be finalized.

This directly implies that it is necessary to achieve a minimum temperature of the combustion products. The lower it is, the higher the efficiency of the boiler.

The second advantage of the low temperature of the combustion products entering the chimney is the key to safe and durable operation of your boiler.

For reference: the best models of solid fuel boilers can have a specified indicator in the range from 120 to 150 degrees.

Almost all the variety of existing types of boilers, both factory-made and self-made, uses a single principle in their work, which was mentioned in the previous section.

It is implemented in two ways:

1. A do-it-yourself water heating boiler can be made according to the “samovar” method. The fuel burns inside a container filled with coolant. Most often, this scheme is implemented in the manufacture of a boiler for a Russian bath.
2. A home-made water heating boiler, made according to the second method, involves the passage of the coolant through the pipes of the heat exchanger (coil) through the furnace in which the fuel burns. As a variant of the same method, quite often the heat exchanger is placed immediately after the furnace at the place where the combustion products exit from it.

As a rule, preference is given to one or another option, taking into account the capabilities of the master in terms of acquiring the necessary materials.

But, in any case, we must not forget that the boiler for water heating is a device of increased danger and requires constant monitoring during operation.

Therefore, without fail, boilers for water heating at home must have in their design a valve to relieve excess pressure, a pressure gauge and a thermometer to determine the temperature of the coolant.

How to make a water heating boiler with your own hands?

The topic of “do-it-yourself water heating” is almost impossible to expand within the framework of a short review. Therefore, here are just a few recommendations. More detailed information can be found on our website and in other sources.

The most commonly used materials for the manufacture of boilers are sheet steel with a thickness of 4 - 5 mm. Heat-resistant stainless steel is, of course, better. But, having learned the price per sheet, the majority chooses the usual one.

When making a home-made water heating boiler, the master, as a rule, takes into account the existing or future method of circulation in the CO of the coolant.

If it moves by gravity (gravitational circulation), then it will be necessary to raise the water tank high enough, and use pipes of large diameters for wiring. And both on the supply and on the return.

This is due to the fact that the resistance to the movement of the coolant is inversely proportional to the diameter of the pipes. If the diameter is not large enough, then you will not be able to do without installing a circulation pump.

Home-made water heating boilers equipped with pumps have their advantages: pipes of smaller diameters are cheaper, the coolant tank can not be raised so high, and cons: if the power goes out during the operation of the system, the boiler can simply break with superheated steam. You choose.

A few recommendations that are suitable for any type of boiler you choose: heating circuits and pipes installed on a heating boiler should preferably be made from pipes with a diameter of 32 mm or more (in inches it is 1 and ¼”).

In the event of an emergency stop of the circulation pump, a rapid and sharp increase in water temperature is observed with a simultaneous decrease in the speed of its movement.

In order to avoid failure of the heating circuit, if possible, it is better to make it from galvanized pipes, and seal the connecting threads using linen tow and red lead.

Variants and schemes of designs of heating boilers

A home-made boiler for water heating is usually divided according to the types of fuel used into the following main types:

wood boilers

Boilers of these types are most in demand for self-manufacturing due to the simplicity of their design, the availability of materials and tools necessary for the manufacture of such a boiler, and the possibility of freely acquiring the required amount of firewood.

• Advantages: simplicity and versatility.
• Disadvantages - rather low efficiency. The following scheme, in this regard, is much more preferable.

The simplest version of such a boiler: a thick-walled pipe of large diameter, into which a pipe of smaller diameter is inserted, which is a firebox. The space between the pipes is filled with coolant.

Wood-burning boilers are universal. They can be heated not only with firewood, but also with almost any solid fuel. (peat briquettes, coal).

Pyrolysis boilers

In the temperature range from 200 to 800 degrees, the wood, the combustion process of which takes place with a lack of oxygen, decomposes into wood coke and pyrolysis gas.

It is worth adding to the latter a sufficient amount of atmospheric air, as it ignites with the release of heat in large quantities. This increases the efficiency of boilers of this design up to 92%.

One bookmark of fuel (firewood) for a pyrolysis boiler can last for 12 hours, while for traditional boilers this figure does not exceed 4 hours.

There are practically no solid residues. Combustion of gases easily gives in to adjustment in the automatic mode.

The disadvantage that boilers for water heating of a house of this design have is stringent requirements for fuel moisture content, not more than 30%. Otherwise, in a mixture with water vapor, the pyrolysis gas will burn poorly.

Materials for the manufacture of a boiler of this design will cost significantly more. than the first option. But the entire cost overrun will fully pay off in 2-3 heating seasons.

Waste oil boilers

The boiler is ignited, put into operation and oil begins to drip onto a special hot pan, which evaporates almost instantly.

The resulting gases, burning, heat the coolant.
Instead of oil, you can use diesel fuel.

Electric boiler

The simplest design is a heating element inside a pipe standing vertically, to which a return is supplied from below, and a supply from above. And natural water circulation.

Cons: it is forbidden to connect boilers with a rated power of more than 7 kW to 220 V networks. And 380 volts is not available everywhere.

The second option for an electric boiler is an induction boiler. This is the simplest version of a home-made boiler of a similar design: a plastic thick-walled pipe, on which at least a hundred turns of enameled wire are wound, connected to a portable welding machine with an output current of 15A.

Elements heated by eddy currents (steel wire cuttings, chopped rod, etc.) are poured into the pipe. We connect the return line from below, the supply from above, we supply water and you can turn on the power.

Materials and tools for boiler installation

The main advantage of the decision to make a water heating boiler with your own hands is that this does not require special equipment, tools and parts.

It is quite easy to find improvised raw materials and materials, and any owner of his own house has almost all the tools (drill, wrenches, screwdrivers ...).

For work you will need:

• sheet metal, or a large-diameter pipe (an option is a metal barrel, an old furnace, etc.);
• steel pipes;
• radiators (if the coolant is water), shaped pipes;
• hardware (nuts, bolts, etc.);
• dampers (you can buy, find a used one or make it yourself);
• door.

It is advisable to install the necessary minimum of automation on the boiler (sensors for monitoring and measuring temperature, for example, or a pressure gauge).

The materials used must be of proper quality (no holes, no rust, etc.).

It's a good idea to put a pump for forced movement of the coolant.

The algorithm for installing a furnace with a water heating boiler is as follows:

Determine the location of the boiler. Then we make the markup and fill the foundation.

We prepare masonry mortar for bricks. For it, you will need sand and clay in a ratio of 2: 1 (approximately, it may vary depending on the fat content of the clay). We soak the clay overnight, in the morning using a mixer (nozzle on a drill) we mix the sand-clay solution.

We lay a sheet of roofing material or other waterproofing on the finished foundation. In size, it must be at least 10 cm larger than the dimensions of the boiler.
We fill it on top with a cement screed, which we level in level.

Using ordinary ordinary red brick (not silicate), we lay out the outer contour of the future furnace. You can also put a fight inside.

We bring the walls to the level of the blower door, put a metal sheet with a slope outward, so that it is more convenient to remove the ash.

We fix the door, lay out the contour of the blower.
We install the boiler (by level), the furnace door.
Lay out the chimney.

Properly organizing the heating of the house is not an easy task. It is clear that specialists – designers and installers – will deal with it best. It is possible and necessary to involve them in the process, but in what capacity it is up to you, the owner of the house, to determine. There are three options: hired people perform the entire range of activities or part of these works, or act as consultants, and you do the heating yourself.

Regardless of which heating option is chosen, it is necessary to have a good understanding of all stages of the process. This material is a step-by-step guide to action. Its goal is to help you solve the heating problem yourself or competently control the hired specialists and installers.

Elements of the heating system

In the vast majority of cases, private residential buildings are heated by water heating systems. This is a traditional approach to solving the issue, which has an undeniable advantage - universality. That is, heat is delivered to all rooms by means of a heat carrier, and it can be heated using various energy carriers. We will consider their list below, when choosing a boiler.

Water systems also make it possible to organize combined heating using two or even three types of energy carriers.

Any heating system, where the coolant serves as a transmission link, is divided into the following components:

• heat source;
• pipeline network with all additional equipment and fittings;
• heating devices (radiators or heating circuits for underfloor heating).

For the purpose of processing and regulating the heat carrier, as well as performing maintenance work in heating systems, additional equipment and shut-off and control valves are used. The equipment includes the following items:

• expansion tank;
• circulation pump;
• hydraulic separator (hydraulic arrow);
• buffer capacity;
• distribution manifold;
• indirect heating boiler;
• devices and means of automation.

Note. An obligatory attribute of a water heating system is an expansion tank, the rest of the equipment is installed as needed.

It is well known that when heated, water expands, and in a confined space, its additional volume has nowhere to go. In order to avoid rupture of connections from high pressure, an expansion tank of an open or membrane type is installed in the network. She also accepts excess water.

Forced circulation of the coolant is provided by a pump, and if there are several circuits separated by a hydraulic arrow or a buffer tank, 2 or more pumping units are used. As for the buffer tank, it works simultaneously as a hydraulic separator and a heat accumulator. The separation of the boiler circulation circuit from all the others is practiced in complex cottage systems with several floors.

Collectors for the distribution of the coolant are installed in heating systems with underfloor heating or in cases where a beam scheme for connecting batteries is used, we will talk about this in the following sections. An indirect heating boiler is a tank with a coil, where water for the needs of domestic hot water is heated from the coolant. Thermometers and pressure gauges are installed in the system for visual control of the temperature and pressure of water in the system. Automation tools (sensors, temperature controllers, controllers, servo drives) not only control the coolant parameters, but also regulate them automatically.

Shut-off valves

In addition to the listed equipment, water heating of the house is controlled and maintained using shut-off and control valves, shown in the table:

When you have familiarized yourself with what elements the heating system consists of, you can proceed to the first step towards the goal - calculations.

Calculation of the heating system and selection of boiler power

It is impossible to select equipment without knowing the amount of thermal energy required to heat the building. It can be determined in two ways: simple approximate and calculated. All sellers of heating equipment like to use the first method, since it is quite simple and gives a more or less correct result. This is the calculation of thermal power by the area of ​​​​heated premises.

They take a separate room, measure its area and multiply the resulting value by 100 watts. The energy required for the entire country house is determined by summing the indicators for all rooms. We offer a more accurate method:

• by 100 W multiply the area of ​​those rooms where only 1 wall is in contact with the street, on which there is 1 window;
• if the room is a corner room with one window, then its area must be multiplied by 120 W;
• when the room has 2 exterior walls with 2 or more windows, its area is multiplied by 130W.

If we consider the power as an approximate method, then residents of the northern regions of the Russian Federation may receive less heat, and the south of Ukraine may overpay for too powerful equipment. With the help of the second, calculation method, heating is designed by specialists. It is more accurate, as it gives a clear understanding of how much heat is lost through the building structures of any building.

Before proceeding with the calculations, the house must be measured, finding out the area of ​​\u200b\u200bwalls, windows and doors. Then it is necessary to determine the thickness of the layer of each building material from which walls, floors and roofs are built. For all materials in the reference literature or the Internet, you should find the value of thermal conductivity λ, expressed in units of W / (m ºС). We substitute it into the formula for calculating the thermal resistance R (m2 ºС / W):

R = δ / λ, here δ is the thickness of the wall material in meters.

Note. When a wall or roof is made of different materials, it is necessary to calculate the R value for each layer, and then summarize the results.

Now you can find out the amount of heat leaving through the external building structure, according to the formula:

• QTP \u003d 1 / R x (tv - tn) x S, where:
• QTP is the amount of heat lost, W;
• S is the previously measured area of ​​the building structure, m2;
• tv - here you need to substitute the value of the desired internal temperature, ºС;
• tn - street temperature in the coldest period, ºС.

Important! The calculation should be made for each room separately, substituting in turn the values ​​​​of thermal resistance and area for the external wall, window, door, floor and roof into the formula. Then all these results must be summed up, these will be the heat losses of this room. The areas of internal partitions do not need to be taken into account!

Heat consumption for ventilation

To find out how much heat a private house loses as a whole, it is necessary to add up the losses of all its rooms. But that's not all, because it is necessary to take into account the heating of the ventilation air, which is also provided by the heating system. In order not to go into the jungle of complex calculations, it is proposed to find out this heat consumption using a simple formula:

Qair \u003d cm (tv - tn), where:

• Qair - the desired amount of heat for ventilation, W;
• m - the amount of air by mass, is determined as the internal volume of the building, multiplied by the density of the air mixture, kg;
• (tv - tn) - as in the previous formula;
• c is the heat capacity of air masses, taken equal to 0.28 W / (kg ºС).

To determine the heat demand of the entire building, it remains to add the value of QTP for the house as a whole with the value of Qair. The power of the boiler is taken with a margin for the optimal mode of operation, that is, with a coefficient of 1.3. Here it is necessary to take into account an important point: if you plan to use a heat generator not only for heating, but also for heating water for hot water supply, then the power reserve should be increased. The boiler must work effectively in 2 directions at once, and therefore the safety factor must be taken at least 1.5.

At the moment, there are various types of heating, characterized by the energy carrier or type of fuel used. Which one to choose is up to you, and we will present all types of boilers with a brief description of their pros and cons. For heating residential buildings, you can purchase the following types of household heat generators:

• solid fuel;
• gas;
• electrical;
• on liquid fuel.

The following video will help you choose an energy source, and then a heat source:

Solid fuel boilers

They are divided into 3 varieties: direct combustion, pyrolysis and pellet. The units are popular due to the low cost of operation, because compared to other energy sources, firewood and coal are inexpensive. The exception is natural gas in the Russian Federation, but connecting to it is often more expensive than all thermal equipment along with installation. Therefore, wood and coal boilers, which have an acceptable cost, are bought by people more and more often.

On the other hand, the operation of a solid fuel heat source is very similar to simple stove heating. You need to spend time and effort to harvest, carry firewood and load it into the firebox. Serious piping of the unit is also required in order to ensure its durable and safe operation. After all, an ordinary solid fuel boiler is characterized by inertia, that is, after closing the air damper, the heating of water does not stop immediately. And the efficient use of the generated energy is possible only if there is a thermal accumulator.

Important. Boilers that burn solid fuels generally cannot boast of high efficiency. Traditional direct combustion units have an efficiency of about 75%, pyrolysis - 80%, and pellet - no more than 83%.

The best choice in terms of comfort is a pellet heat generator, which has a high level of automation and almost no inertia. It does not require a heat accumulator and frequent trips to the boiler room. But the price of equipment and pellets often makes it inaccessible to a wide range of users.

gas boilers

An excellent option is to carry out heating that operates on main gas. In general, hot water gas boilers are very reliable and efficient. The efficiency of the simplest non-volatile unit is at least 87%, and that of an expensive condensing unit is up to 97%. The heaters are compact, well automated and safe to operate. Maintenance is required no more than once a year, and trips to the boiler room are needed only to control or change settings. A budget unit will come out much cheaper than a solid fuel one, so gas boilers can be considered publicly available.

Just like solid fuel heat generators, gas boilers require a chimney and supply and exhaust ventilation. As for other countries of the former USSR, the cost of fuel there is much higher than in the Russian Federation, which is why the popularity of gas equipment is steadily declining.

Electric boilers

I must say that electric heating is the most efficient of all existing ones. Not only is the efficiency of the boilers about 99%, but in addition they do not require chimneys and ventilation. Maintenance of the units as such is practically absent, except for cleaning once every 2-3 years. And most importantly: the equipment and installation are very cheap, while the degree of automation can be anything. The boiler simply does not need your attention.

As pleasant as the advantages of an electric boiler, the main drawback is just as significant - the price of electricity. Even if you use a multi-tariff electricity meter, you won’t be able to get around a wood-burning heat generator by this indicator. Such is the price for comfort, reliability and high efficiency. Well, the second minus is the lack of the necessary electrical power on the supply networks. Such an annoying nuisance can immediately cross out all thoughts about electric heating.

Oil boilers

At the cost of heating equipment and its installation, heating on waste oil or diesel fuel will cost about the same as on natural gas. Their performance indicators are also similar, although, for obvious reasons, working out loses somewhat. Another thing is that this type of heating can be safely called the dirtiest. Any visit to the boiler room will end at least with the smell of diesel fuel or with dirty hands. And the annual cleaning of the unit is a whole event, after which you will be smeared with soot to the waist.

The use of diesel fuel for heating is not the most profitable solution; the price of fuel can hit your pocket hard. Waste oil has also risen in price, unless you have some cheap source of it. This means that it makes sense to install a diesel boiler when there are no other energy sources or, in the future, supplying main gas. The unit easily switches from diesel fuel to gas, but the mining furnace cannot burn methane.

Schemes of heating systems for a private house

Heating systems implemented in private housing construction are one- and two-pipe. It's easy to tell them apart:

• according to a single-pipe scheme, all radiators are connected to one collector. It is both a supply and a return, passing by all the batteries in the form of a closed ring;
• in a two-pipe scheme, the coolant is supplied to the radiators through one pipe, and returns through the other.

The choice of a heating system scheme for a private house is not an easy task, it certainly does not hurt to consult a specialist. We will not sin against the truth if we say that the two-pipe scheme is more progressive and reliable than the one-pipe one. Contrary to popular belief about the low installation costs when installing the latter, we note that it is not only more expensive than a two-pipe one, but also more difficult. This topic is covered in great detail in this video:

The fact is that in a single-pipe system, the water from the radiator to the radiator cools more and more, so it is necessary to increase their capacity by adding sections. In addition, the distribution manifold must have a larger diameter than the two-pipe distribution lines. And the last thing: automatic control with a single-pipe circuit is difficult due to the mutual influence of the batteries on each other.

In a small house or cottage with up to 5 radiators, you can safely implement a single-pipe horizontal scheme (common name - Leningradka). With more heating devices, it will not be able to function normally, because the last batteries will be cold.

Another option is to use single-pipe vertical risers in a two-story private house. Such schemes are quite common and work successfully.

The coolant with two-pipe wiring is delivered to all radiators with the same temperature, so there is no need to increase the number of sections. The division of the lines into supply and return makes it possible to automatically control the operation of the batteries through thermostatic valves.

Pipeline diameters are smaller, and the system as a whole is simpler. There are such types of two-pipe schemes:

dead-end: the pipeline network is divided into branches (shoulders), along which the coolant moves along the mains towards each other;

an associated two-pipe system: here the return manifold is, as it were, a continuation of the supply one, and the entire coolant flows in one direction, the circuit forms a ring;

collector (beam). The most expensive wiring method: pipelines from the collector are laid separately to each radiator, the laying method is hidden, in the floor.

If you take horizontal lines of larger diameter and lay them with a slope of 3-5 mm per 1 m, then the system will be able to work due to gravity (by gravity). Then the circulation pump is not needed, the circuit will be non-volatile. In fairness, we note that without a pump, both single-pipe and two-pipe wiring can function. If only conditions were created for the natural circulation of water.

The heating system can be made open by installing an expansion tank at the highest point that communicates with the atmosphere. This solution is used in gravity networks, otherwise it cannot be done there. If, however, an expansion tank of a membrane type is installed on the return line near the boiler, the system will be closed and operate under excess pressure. This is a more modern version, which finds its application in networks with forced movement of the coolant.

It is impossible not to say about the method of heating the house with warm floors. Its disadvantage is the high cost, since hundreds of meters of pipes will need to be laid in the screed, as a result of which a heating water circuit is obtained in each room. The ends of the pipes converge to a distribution manifold with a mixing unit and its own circulation pump. An important plus is the economical uniform heating of the premises, which is very comfortable for people. Underfloor heating circuits are unambiguously recommended for use in all residential buildings.

Advice. The owner of a small house (up to 150 m2) can be safely recommended to adopt the usual two-pipe scheme with forced circulation of the coolant. Then the diameters of the mains will be no more than 25 mm, the branches - 20 mm, and the connections to the batteries - 15 mm.

Heating system installation

We will begin the description of installation work with the installation and piping of the boiler. In accordance with the rules, units whose power does not exceed 60 kW can be installed in the kitchen. More powerful heat generators should be located in the boiler room. At the same time, for heat sources that burn different types of fuel and have an open combustion chamber, it is necessary to ensure a good air flow. A chimney device is also required to remove combustion products.

For the natural movement of water, it is recommended to install the boiler in such a way that its return pipe is below the level of the radiators on the first floor.

The place where the heat generator will be located must be chosen taking into account the minimum allowable distances from walls or other equipment. Typically, these intervals are indicated in the manual supplied with the product. If these data are not available, then we adhere to the following rules:

• passage width from the front side of the boiler - 1 m;
• if you do not need to service the unit from the side or rear, then leave a gap of 0.7 m, otherwise - 1.5 m;
• distance to the nearest equipment - 0.7 m;
• when placing two boilers next to each other, a passage of 1 m is maintained between them, opposite each other - 2 m.

Note. When installing wall-mounted heat sources, side passages are not needed, only the clearance in front of the unit must be observed for ease of maintenance.

Boiler connection

It should be noted that the piping of gas, diesel and electric heat generators is almost the same. Here it must be borne in mind that the vast majority of wall-mounted boilers are equipped with a built-in circulation pump, and many models also have an expansion tank. To begin with, consider the connection diagram of a simple gas or diesel unit:

The figure shows a diagram of a closed system with a membrane expansion tank and forced circulation. This type of binding is the most common. The pump with a bypass line and a sump is located on the return line, there is also an expansion tank. The pressure is controlled by pressure gauges, air is removed from the boiler circuit through an automatic air vent.

Note. Tying an electric boiler that is not equipped with a pump is carried out according to the same principle.

When the heat generator is equipped with its own pump, as well as a circuit for heating water for the needs of domestic hot water, the piping and installation of elements is as follows:

Shown here is a wall mounted boiler with forced air injection into a closed combustion chamber. To remove flue gases, a double-walled coaxial gas duct is used, which is brought out horizontally through the wall. If the furnace of the unit is open, then a traditional chimney with good natural draft is needed. How to properly install a chimney from sandwich modules is shown in the figure:

In country houses of a large area, it is often necessary to dock a boiler with several heating circuits - radiator, underfloor heating and an indirect heating boiler for hot water needs. In such a situation, the optimal solution would be to use a hydraulic separator. It will allow you to organize an independent circulation of the coolant in the boiler circuit and at the same time serve as a distribution comb for the remaining branches. Then the schematic diagram of heating a two-story house will look like this:

According to this scheme, each heating circuit has its own pump, so that it works independently of the others. Since a coolant with a temperature of no more than 45 ° C should be supplied to the warm floors, three-way valves are used on these branches. They mix hot water from the main line when the temperature of the coolant in the underfloor heating circuits decreases.

With solid fuel heat generators, the situation is more complicated. Their binding should take into account 2 points:

• possible overheating due to the inertia of the unit, the firewood cannot be extinguished quickly;
• formation of condensate when cold water enters the boiler tank from the network.

To avoid overheating and possible boiling, the circulation pump is always placed on the return line, and a safety group must be on the supply immediately after the heat generator. It consists of three elements: a pressure gauge, an automatic air vent and a safety valve. The presence of the latter is crucial, it is the valve that will relieve excess pressure when the coolant overheats. If you decide to organize, then the following strapping scheme is required:

Here, a bypass and a three-way valve protect the furnace of the unit from condensation. The valve will not allow water from the system to pass into the small circuit until the temperature in it reaches 55 ° C. Detailed information on this issue can be obtained by watching the video:

Advice. Due to the peculiarities of operation, solid fuel boilers are recommended to be used in conjunction with a buffer tank - a heat accumulator, as shown in the diagram:

Many homeowners put two different heat sources in the furnace room. They must be properly tied and connected to the system. In this case, we offer 2 schemes, one of them is for a solid fuel and electric boiler, working together with radiator heating.

The second scheme combines a gas and wood-fired heat generator that supplies heat for heating the house and preparing water for hot water supply:

To install the heating of a private house with your own hands, you first need to decide which pipes to choose for this. The modern market offers several types of metal and polymer pipes suitable for heating private houses:

• steel;
• copper;
• stainless steel;
• polypropylene (PPR);
• polyethylene (PEX, PE-RT);
• metal-plastic.

Heating mains made of ordinary "black" metal are considered a relic of the past, since they are most susceptible to corrosion and "overgrowth" of the flow area. In addition, it is not easy to carry out installation from such pipes on your own: good welding skills are needed in order to carry out a tight joint. However, some homeowners still use steel piping to this day when they install independent heating at home.

Copper or stainless steel tubing is a great choice, but it's too expensive. These are reliable and durable materials that are not afraid of high pressure and temperature, so if funds are available, these products are definitely recommended for use. Copper is joined by soldering, which also requires some skills, and stainless steel - using collapsible or press fittings. Preference should be given to the latter, especially with hidden laying.

Advice. For tying boilers and laying highways within the boiler room, it is best to use any kind of metal pipes.

Heating from polypropylene will cost you the cheapest. Of all types of PPR pipes, it is necessary to choose those that are reinforced with aluminum foil or fiberglass. The low price of the material is their only plus, since the installation of heating from polypropylene pipes is a rather complicated and responsible matter. And in appearance, polypropylene loses to other plastic products.

The joints of PPR pipelines with fittings are carried out by soldering, and it is not possible to check their quality. When the heating was insufficient during soldering, the connection will definitely leak later, but if it is overheated, the blurred polymer will half block the flow area. Moreover, it will not be possible to see this during assembly, the flaws will make themselves felt later, during operation. The second significant drawback is the large elongation of the material during heating. To avoid "saber" bends, the pipe must be mounted on movable supports, and a gap must be left between the ends of the line and the wall.

It is much easier to make heating from polyethylene or metal-plastic pipes with your own hands. Although the price of these materials is higher than polypropylene. For a beginner, they are most convenient, since the joints here are quite simple. Pipelines can be laid in a screed or wall, but with one condition: the connections must be made on press fittings, not collapsible ones.

Metal-plastic and polyethylene are used both for open laying of highways, and hidden behind any screens, as well as for installing water-heated floors. The disadvantage of pipes made of PEX material is in its desire to return to its original state, which is why the laid heating manifold may look slightly wavy. PE-RT polyethylene and metal-plastic do not have such a “memory” and calmly bend as you need. More information about the choice of pipes is described in the video:

An ordinary homeowner, having entered a heating equipment store and seeing the widest selection of different radiators there, may conclude that choosing batteries for his home is not so easy. But this is the first impression, in fact there are not so many varieties of them:

• aluminum;
• bimetallic;
• steel panel and tubular;
• cast iron.

Note. There are also designer water heating devices of a wide variety of types, but they are expensive and deserve a separate detailed description.

Aluminum alloy sectional batteries have the best heat transfer performance, bimetallic heaters are not far from them. The difference between the two is that the former are made entirely of alloy, while the latter have a tubular steel frame inside. This is done with the aim of using the devices in the district heating systems of high-rise buildings, where pressure can be quite high. Therefore, installing bimetallic radiators in a private cottage does not make sense at all.

It should be noted that the installation of heating in a private house will be cheaper if you purchase steel panel radiators. Yes, their heat transfer performance is less than that of aluminum, but in practice you are unlikely to feel the difference. As for reliability and durability, the devices will successfully serve you for at least 20 years, or even more. In turn, tubular batteries are much more expensive, in this respect they are closer to designer ones.

Steel and aluminum heating appliances have one useful quality in common: they lend themselves well to automatic regulation using thermostatic valves. What can not be said about massive cast-iron batteries, on which it is pointless to install such valves. All because of the ability of cast iron to heat up for a long time, and then retain heat for a while. Also because of this, the rate of heating of the premises is reduced.

If we touch on the issue of aesthetics of appearance, then the cast-iron retro radiators currently offered are much more beautiful than any other batteries. But they also cost fabulous money, and inexpensive "accordions" of the Soviet model MS-140 are only suitable for a one-story country house. From the above, the conclusion is:

For a private house, buy those heating devices that you like the most and suit the cost. Just take into account their features and choose the right size and heat output.

Selection by power and methods of connecting radiators

The selection of the number of sections or the size of the panel radiator is carried out according to the amount of heat required to heat the room. We have already determined this value at the very beginning, it remains to reveal a couple of nuances. The fact is that the manufacturer indicates the heat transfer of the section for the temperature difference between the coolant and the room air, equal to 70 ° C. To do this, the water in the battery must warm up to at least 90 ° C, which happens very rarely.

It turns out that the actual thermal power of the device will be significantly lower than indicated in the passport, because usually the temperature in the boiler is maintained at 60-70 ° C on the coldest days. Accordingly, for proper space heating, the installation of radiators with at least one and a half heat transfer margins is required. For example, when a room needs 2 kW of heat, you must take heating appliances with a capacity of at least 2 x 1.5 = 3 kW.

Indoors, batteries are placed in places of greatest heat loss - under windows or near blank outer walls. In this case, the connection to the highways can be done in several ways:

• lateral unilateral;
• diagonal versatile;
• lower - if the radiator has corresponding pipes.

The lateral connection of the device on one side is most often used when it is connected to risers, and the diagonal one - to horizontally laid lines. These 2 methods allow you to effectively use the entire surface of the battery, which will heat up evenly.

When a one-pipe heating system is installed, the bottom versatile connection is also used. But then the efficiency of the device decreases, and hence the heat transfer. The difference in surface heating is illustrated in the figure:

There are models of radiators, where the design provides for the connection of pipes from below. Such devices have internal wiring and in fact they have a one-sided side circuit. This is clearly seen in the figure, where the battery is shown in section.

A lot of useful information on the choice of heating devices can be found by watching the video:

5 common editing mistakes

Of course, when installing a heating system, you can make much more than five flaws, but we will highlight the 5 most egregious ones that can lead to disastrous consequences. Here they are:

• wrong choice of heat source;
• errors in the piping of the heat generator;
• incorrectly selected heating system;
• careless installation of the pipelines and fittings themselves;
• improper installation and connection of heating devices.

A boiler of insufficient power is one of the typical mistakes. It is allowed when selecting a unit designed not only to heat the premises, but also to prepare water for the needs of hot water supply. If you do not take into account the additional power required to heat the water, the heat generator will not cope with its functions. As a result, the coolant in the batteries and the water in the DHW system will not heat up to the desired temperature.

Details play not only a functional role, but also serve security purposes. For example, it is recommended to install a pump on the return pipeline just before the heat generator, in addition to the bypass line. Moreover, the pump shaft must be in a horizontal position. Another mistake is to install a crane in the area between the boiler and the security group, this is strictly unacceptable.

Important. When connecting a solid fuel boiler, the pump must not be placed in front of the three-way valve, but only after it (along the coolant).

The expansion tank is taken with a volume of 10% of the total amount of water in the system. With an open circuit, it is placed at the highest point, with a closed one - on the return pipeline, in front of the pump. Between them there should be a sump mounted in a horizontal position with the plug down. The wall-mounted boiler is connected to the pipelines by means of American women.

When the heating system is chosen incorrectly, you risk overpaying for materials and installation, and then incurring additional costs to bring it to mind. Most often, errors occur when installing single-pipe systems, when more than 5 radiators are tried to “hang” on one branch, which then do not heat. The flaws in the installation of the system include non-observance of slopes, poor-quality connections and installation of the wrong fittings.

For example, a thermostatic valve or a conventional ball valve is installed at the radiator inlet, and a balancing valve is installed at the outlet to adjust the heating system. If pipes are installed to radiators in the floor or walls, then they must be insulated so that the coolant does not cool down along the road. When joining polypropylene pipes, it is necessary to carefully adhere to the heating time with a soldering iron so that the connection is reliable.

Choosing a coolant

It is well known that filtered and, if possible, demineralized water is most often used for this purpose. But under certain conditions, such as periodic heating, water can freeze and destroy the system. Then the latter is filled with a non-freezing liquid - antifreeze. But you should take into account the properties of this liquid and do not forget to remove all gaskets from ordinary rubber from the system. From antifreeze, they quickly become limp and a leak occurs.

Attention! Not every boiler can work with non-freezing liquid, which is displayed in its technical data sheet. This must be checked upon purchase.

As a rule, the system is filled with coolant directly from the water supply through a make-up valve and a check valve. In the process of filling, air is removed from it through automatic air vents and Mayevsky manual taps. With a closed circuit, pressure is monitored by a pressure gauge. Usually, in a cold state, it lies in the range of 1.2-1.5 bar, and during operation it does not exceed 3 bar. In an open circuit, it is necessary to monitor the water level in the tank and turn off the make-up when it flows out of the overflow pipe.

Antifreeze is pumped into a closed heating system with a special manual or automatic pump equipped with a pressure gauge. In order for the process not to be interrupted, the liquid must be prepared in advance in a container of the appropriate capacity, from where it should be pumped into the pipeline network. Filling an open system is easier: antifreeze can simply be poured or pumped into an expansion tank.

Conclusion

If you carefully understand all the nuances, it becomes clear that installing a heating system in a private house on your own is quite realistic. But you must understand that this will require a lot of time and effort from you, including for monitoring the installation in the event that you decide to hire specialists for this.

It is not always possible to organize gas heating in a private house, and the cost of electric heating does not allow its use. In addition, it is not uncommon for homeowners to wish to have a backup heating system in order to be less dependent on energy supplies. In such cases, homeowners turn to the old-fashioned method of heating using solid fuel, proven over the years. This raises the question of what kind of solid fuel heating device will make it possible to effectively heat the home.

Solid fuel equipment

Comparative analysis of heating devices: boiler or furnace

Basic definitions

Bake

A heating unit, the operation of which is based on the combustion of solid fuel, as a result of which thermal energy is released and then transferred to the atmosphere of the room, is called a furnace. The design of modern furnaces allows you to achieve the highest possible efficiency for devices of this kind. Their efficiency can be up to 90%, which to a certain extent depends on the skills of the stoker.

Bake

It is generally accepted that the power of the furnace is sufficient only for houses with a small area, no more than 70 square meters. m. Their improved designs related to systems and Kuznetsov can heat large areas, the size of which is more than 150 sq.m. Despite the simplicity of Buleryan's design, it has considerable power and attractive appearance. Buleryan is a one that has certain design features in the form of the presence of pipes mounted in a metal case. By moving air through these pipes, the room is heated by convection.

The Kuznetsov furnace characterizes the use of a specific mechanism for the movement of flue gases due to its own mass. In this device, an increased pressure is created and turbulence is present, which makes it possible to increase the transfer of heat by its walls. This increases efficiency and reduces energy consumption. The design harmoniously fits into the interior of the room.

Boiler

The main difference between boilers and furnaces is the method of heat transfer. In this case, the heat carrier is heated, which in turn transfers thermal energy to the heated premises. Thus, the heat generator does not directly participate in space heating. A solid fuel boiler has the technical ability to heat large areas. As a coolant, in most cases, water is used, it is possible to use antifreeze or oil, which is less common. In houses with a large number of rooms and a large number of storeys, the use of boilers is preferable. Sometimes the use of boilers is the only possible way to organize heating for private housing construction.

Boiler

Installation of heating devices

Bake

Laying a stove is possible during the construction of a house, but its construction in an already finished building is very problematic. The exception is the metal structures of furnaces. The process of their installation is associated with the need to create a chimney. Laying a traditional brick oven requires creativity and deviating from standard designs. Also, there is a need to adapt the design of the device, performed according to the Kuznetsov system. The layout should be made in such a way that the premises have an interface with the furnace. Also, when building a furnace, it is necessary to provide a foundation and a passage for the chimney.

Furnace construction stage

Boiler

The design of the boilers does not have any special requirements for the layout of the house, which implies the possibility of their installation in a house that has already been put into operation. If a solid fuel boiler is used as an alternative to a gas boiler, then it is possible to connect them to one common system. To switch from one type of fuel to another, it is enough to switch the coolant supply.

Installation of boiler equipment implies the organization of a separate room for it. The boiler must be equipped with a chimney, and the room with a ventilation system.

Boiler installation

Thus, the organization of stove heating is associated with certain difficulties, which include a shortage of qualified stove-makers.

Operation of heating units

Warmth in the house is an important task

Any design of a device that runs on solid fuel requires maintenance during operation and periodic loading of the energy carrier. Fuel supply can be implemented automatically when using boilers, which in any case requires maintenance.

Independence from other energy sources has its price, which is expressed in the need for human participation in the operation of boiler equipment. Fuel filling should be carried out several times a day, depending on the design features of the heater and the heated areas. Furnaces of classical design need more fuel than boilers. In addition, solid fuel boilers have a longer interval between loads.

Such operation of these devices is ensured by the increased size of the furnace and more complete combustion of fuel using original technical solutions. Reducing the number of bookmarks from an interval of 2-3 hours to 2-3 times a day is an acceptable indicator.

Boiler equipment

Modern boiler equipment incorporates automation, which greatly simplifies its operation. In this case, the energy independence element is lost, since the automatic control of the boiler operation requires the presence of electricity.

Solid fuel boilers have certain specifics regarding the use of various types of fuel. It is undesirable to load coal into a wood-burning boiler and vice versa. Universal boilers have a cost, compared to specialized devices, 30-50% higher.

When heating with wood, stoves and boilers consume it in approximately equal amounts. More economical Kuznetsov oven.

When comparing boilers and furnaces, the latter are not clear leaders in terms of performance. The cost of heating boilers, ease of installation, the possibility of heating a larger area, as well as a more comfortable maintenance process and significant durability, speak in favor of using them for heating private houses.

Classification of boilers according to the method of fuel combustion

Depending on the nature of the processes occurring during the combustion of fuel in the boiler, they can be:

• direct burning;
• pyrolysis;
• long burning;
• pellet.

There is also a constructive solution with the possibility of using a combination of different types of fuel.

Choosing a boiler

traditional boiler

traditional boiler

The cheapest option for a heating boiler is a device that is fueled by wood or coal. The simplest of them are non-volatile, since they do not require electricity for the operation of automation, which is essential for the natural circulation of the coolant. Loading the device with firewood occurs quite often, its normal operation requires cleaning the combustion chamber and ash pan. When burning coal, the interval between its loadings increases in comparison with firewood. It should be understood that for the stable operation of such a heat generator, the construction of a warehouse for storing a supply of coolant is required.

pyrolysis boiler

The cost of a pyrolysis boiler is significantly higher than that of a classical design. This is due to the presence of an additional chamber necessary for the implementation of the process of afterburning the fuel during its smoldering. The efficiency of such units can reach 85%, and the frequency of loading is about 8 hours. Such indicators are clear advantages of pyrolysis boilers.

When operating these devices, it is important that the moisture content of firewood does not exceed 25%. Otherwise, the boiler loses all its advantages at a higher cost of equipment.

pyrolysis boiler

Long burning boiler

A characteristic feature of boilers with a long burning period is the direction of fuel combustion. It can occur both from the bottom up and in the opposite direction. Burning can occur for 12 hours when using firewood, and up to two days - on coal. This circumstance greatly simplifies the operation of the device. Its efficiency is quite high, the efficiency is at the level of 75%.

Long burning boiler

It became possible to achieve such a long burning time by increasing the size of the furnace and supplying air into its space organized in a special way. The advantage of this boiler is at the same time its disadvantage, since it is not possible to load fuel during the combustion process until the previous bookmark is completely burned out.

Pellet boilers

In terms of cost, these heating devices are the most expensive. At the same time, the level of automation is maximum for such units. Equipment maintenance does not require constant human supervision. It is important that there is a sufficient amount of pellets in the bunker, then for a period of one to six days, combustion will be carried out automatically. The advantage of a pellet boiler is efficiency and high efficiency, which is at the level of 80-85%.

pellet boiler

Boiler piping

Boiler piping

Do-it-yourself piping of a solid fuel boiler is a set of equipment and parts necessary to create a heating system. In addition to the boiler, it includes pipes, heating and instrumentation, an expansion tank and other elements.
Strapping is required to achieve the following goals:

• ensuring the circulation of the coolant and uniform distribution of heat in the premises;
• safety and continuity of operation;
• lack of air in the system;
• creating conditions for organizing several circuits.

Coolant circulation schemes

Boiler piping can be done using various systems. One of them involves the use of a gravitational circuit and is used to organize heating in small houses. The movement of the coolant through the pipes occurs naturally. In this case, the boiler is located at a point that is below the radiators. An expansion tank is used to prevent water hammer. A pump can be used to stabilize the pressure in the system.

Coolant circulation scheme

Another do-it-yourself boiler piping option uses the natural circulation of fluid in the heating system. The main condition for the implementation of this scheme is the mixing in the return line of the coolant from the circuit used for supply. This is possible by installing a three-way valve.

Heat exchange register

A do-it-yourself heat exchanger for a boiler is one of its main parts; the power of the entire system depends on it. Boilers installed in private homes can be equipped with heat exchangers in the form of a water jacket, made tubular, horizontally or vertically.

Chimneys for boilers

Do-it-yourself requirements for the chimney of a solid fuel boiler are subject to general requirements. It should not be performed with a small cross section so that the thrust is at a sufficient level. An excessively wide chimney will lead to the risk of cold air entering the furnace and cooling the system.

The chimney for the boiler is just as important as for the furnace

Of all the heating equipment that is used today in everyday life, solid fuel boilers have been known for the longest time. Due to the simplicity of design and principle of operation, the availability of fuel, units of this type are widely used. Today, for many residents of private houses in rural areas, this technique has become a kind of "lifesaver". The ever-increasing price of domestic gas, the difficulties in obtaining permits for the installation of a gas autonomous heater contribute to the fact that today a solid fuel boiler, at least, has not lost its demand among the population living near forests - a source of firewood.

Solid fuel heating boilers: on the left - mounted and operating, on the right - without connection to the circuit, at the installation stage.

Today, there are two options to solve the problem of autonomous heating on solid fuel: buy a finished factory product or make a solid fuel boiler with your own hands. The cost of a modern high-tech heating unit is quite high, but the price range is wide - from 3 to several tens of thousands of rubles, which makes the device affordable to a wide range of consumers.

With a certain technical training, a solid fuel boiler can be assembled independently, using the recommendations for the manufacture of models of these devices, the most popular for do-it-yourself mounting.

Solid fuel boiler concept

A self-made autonomous solid fuel boiler is, by and large, an ordinary stove installed in a barrel of water. The main task of such a device is to heat boiler water, which will be supplied to home heating radiators, using heat from the combustion of firewood or coal.

But such a device, tempting to self-manufacture due to primitiveness, will not be effective in terms of heating and not cost-effective due to high fuel consumption - the simplest boiler designs have an efficiency of only 10-15%.

Primitive solid fuel water boiler with chimney economizer

Important! The operation of a solid fuel boiler depends on the quality of the draft and, accordingly, the supply ventilation. Even a well-manufactured boiler will not be able to provide efficient space heating if the ventilation is not arranged accordingly.

Home-made boilers are assembled not only from metal, but also assembled from brick. Brick devices are usually built in country houses, where higher requirements are placed on the aesthetics of the installed equipment than in utility or technical premises.

Metal boilers are the simplest devices, the manufacture of which allows the use of improvised materials and possibly with the help of available tools. But it does not follow from this that their production and installation can be performed without, at a minimum, sketches of blanks and assemblies, as well as a well-developed technology - a sequence, methods for performing individual stages of preparatory and basic work.

Choosing the design of the heating boiler

Furnaces for heating and solid fuel boilers, with similar combustion processes, differ in functionality. A heating boiler, unlike a stove, must not only heat the room at the installation site by burning wood or coal, but also supply the heating circuit with heated coolant. But to perform the second task, it is not enough to place a heat exchanger (a section of the heating circuit) in the furnace - it is also necessary to ensure the continuity of fuel combustion and uniform circulation of the coolant through this coil.

Pipe heat exchanger of a solid fuel boiler made of refractory bricks

What design of the boiler to choose to make it easier to make it yourself, what difficulties will you encounter in the process of work? These questions can be answered at the design stage. Drawings of home-made solid fuel boilers give a sufficient idea of ​​\u200b\u200bwhat this or that design looks like, and what you should pay attention to during the manufacturing process.

An example of a schematic representation of a solid fuel boiler from the outside: front, side and rear views.

Each type of solid fuel boiler equipment has its own design features and manufacturing nuances. When planning an independent assembly of the heating unit, it is necessary to decide which design to give preference to - with the lower or upper (mine) method of combustion.

Units with lower combustion- this is equipment in which the door for loading firewood is located in the upper part of the combustion chamber, but the combustion of fuel occurs from below, as a result of which the upper layers of the bookmark move down under their own weight, and the afterburning of smoke occurs in the upper part. Depending on the model, the movement of air through the furnace occurs from the bottom up forcibly (fan) or naturally (draught), which leads to independence from the mains, but reduced efficiency and a smaller amount of fuel loaded.

Schematic sectional view of a solid fuel boiler with lower fuel combustion

In solid fuel boilers of a mine structure, firewood is loaded through a door, which is located in the upper part of the combustion chamber. Such units are equipped with forced draft, which is directed from top to bottom - it drives smoke to the lower part of the furnace, where it burns mixed with air, and along the way it heats up and additionally dries the fuel of the lower tiers.

Scheme of operation of a solid fuel heating boiler with an upper combustion method

A unit with a lower combustion method is more suitable for self-production, so when assembling it, you can do without a fan for forced draft.

Solid fuel steel boiler of lower combustion without finishing

Important! The more complex the design of the equipment, the higher the technological requirements for the quality of execution of its components, which should not have deviations from the design parameters. The assembly process of such a unit is no less responsible.

According to the method of combustion, solid fuel boilers can be designed for normal operation or operate with pyrolysis - the process of decomposition of solid fuel into two components and their subsequent separate combustion. Giving preference to the second, more complex, option, you will have to take into account the need to install a second combustion chamber, which will increase the dimensions of the heater and, accordingly, require more materials.

The choice of the type of heating equipment is largely determined by the type of solid fuel that will be supplied to the heating device. If you have a large amount of firewood on hand, it would be better if the boiler you made is designed for firewood. With greater availability of hard coal, another model will do. The duration of burning bookmarks, the quality of heating are determined by the type of solid fuel boiler, its power and design.

On a note: the combustion temperature of coal is much higher than that of firewood, therefore, the heat exchanger and the boiler body for coal are made of thicker steel. An alternative would be to build the body and combustion chamber of the boiler from refractory bricks.

If it is not possible to create the outer casing of the unit from steel of the required thickness, a brick solid fuel boiler will be a rational solution. Refractory brick lining will create a spacious, comfortable and high temperature resistant combustion chamber.

Construction of a combustion chamber from refractory bricks with placement inside the heat exchanger

The choice of a boiler with a design of acceptable complexity must be made after analyzing the technical performance and an objective assessment of one's competence and capabilities. If there is any doubt, in order to exclude the possibility of unjustified damage to the material, it is better to give preference to the unit of a simple design that is clear from the drawings - even such a solid fuel boiler is able to provide the house with heat in the cold season.

Basic requirements for the design of a homemade heater

In its classic form, the heating unit, from which home heating will work, consists of the following elements:

• combustion chamber (bunker) for burning firewood, coal, fuel briquettes;
• grates through which air mass is supplied to the combustion chamber;
• tubular heat exchanger or storage tank for boiler water;
• chimney for bringing out the products of combustion of fuel;

An important requirement that will have to be taken into account at the design stage of the boiler is the dimensions of the combustion chamber. The furnace of an autonomous solid fuel boiler should be spacious and roomy. The design of the combustion chamber is calculated in such a way that the fuel placed in it burns completely without additional mixing. Brick boilers are preferable in this regard, since brick has a lower thermal conductivity, which provides a higher combustion temperature in a ceramic furnace than in a metal unit.

The combustion chamber should be designed in such a way as to maximize the concentration of thermal energy on heating the heat exchanger.

Solid fuel boiler steel firebox

The next, no less important aspect in the design of heating equipment is the heat exchanger of a solid fuel boiler. The efficiency of boiler equipment depends on the design of this element, the quality of the material and the performance. The name of the heat exchanger is determined by the material of its manufacture - cast iron or steel. The heat exchange coils of these units - tubular structures with a vertical or horizontal arrangement of pipes in everyday life are often called water jackets.

We will not consider cast-iron heat exchangers, since this is a cast structure, the manufacture of which is impossible at home. However, you can use ready-made cast iron assemblies, removed from old units, dismantled for some reason. Such a replacement is common when a solid fuel boiler is being upgraded or repaired.

For the manufacture of a steel heat exchanger, thick-walled pipes are used. The desired configuration of the pipe is made flexible under heating or using bends or half-bends of the appropriate diameter, connected to the fragments of the coil by electric welding.

The installation diagram for a coil for a traditional solid fuel unit will give a complete picture of how the heat exchanger should look like and in what position it is better to install it.

Sketch of one of the options for the location of the tube heat exchanger in the housing: side views

Step-by-step production of a solid fuel boiler. Subtleties and nuances

You will not be able to make the most economical home-made solid fuel boiler, but you can create a heating apparatus that is quite suitable for heating and hot water supply. The fact is that the assembly of industrial products is carried out on high-precision industrial equipment from specially selected materials in compliance with technological parameters. Accurate thermal calculations are the basis of each factory model of the boiler. The possibilities of working at home are incommensurably more modest than production ones, therefore, when choosing a model to be manufactured, one must proceed from existing realities, including one's personal potential as an installer.

Tools and materials

Having a drawing and specification of the heating unit, you can decide on the list of necessary tools. Whether you want to make a large boiler or plan to assemble a small solid fuel heater with your own hands, the list of accessories will be approximately the same.

Tool kit for self-manufacturing of a solid fuel heating unit

To work, you will need the following tools and fixtures:

• welding machine;
• small grinder with cutting and grinding discs (safety glasses);
• electric drill with drills for metal;
• gas keys No. 1,2;
• a hammer;
• a set of open-end or box wrenches and screwdrivers;
• pliers;
• 90 degree angle.

The main material in the manufacture is steel, the thickness of which for the boiler must be at least 5 mm, for the grate - from 7 mm.

In addition, you will need:

• steel corner 50x50 - for the boiler frame;
• sheet stainless steel - if there is a storage tank in the design;
• steel thick-walled pipes with a diameter of 32-50 mm - for the manufacture of a coil heat exchanger.

A complete list of materials and their consumption is compiled in advance on the basis of technical drawings.

Housing and heat exchanger manufacturing

The boiler body, which often plays the role of a combustion chamber, is the basis of the entire structure. To reduce wall deformations under the influence of high temperature, the enclosing structures of the furnace are made two-layer with backfilling between the layers of dry sifted sand, which plays the role of a geometry fixer. The outer and inner shells of the furnace are made of frame, which also increases the rigidity of the structure. In addition, to increase the strength of the walls of the combustion chamber, the outside can be sheathed with a steel corner or a profile in the form of stiffeners.

Manufacture of a body of a solid fuel boiler by welding blanks from sheet steel

According to the drawing, two openings are cut out on the front wall with a grinder or a gas cutter - for the bunker door and the ash pan.

Advice! Before cutting sheet steel, it is necessary to mark future openings with small diameters (3-4 mm) at the corners of the holes - this will allow cutting with greater accuracy.

After cutting blanks from sheet steel and a profile for the body, you can begin to create a heat exchanger. We use cut water pipes, which are connected by welding into a single sealed circuit. The main task is to create a hermetic flow fragment of maximum length to increase the heating area of ​​the pipe.

How to make a heat exchanger, correctly position the pipes and perform welding, tells the video brought to your attention.

Assembly

When all structural elements are ready, assembly is started, which is best done at the installation site of the unit - sometimes the dimensions and weight of the finished device do not allow it to be moved from the assembly site to the final location.

Most often, the boiler is installed on a specially constructed concrete foundation with the unit fastened by welding to embedded parts - anchors. Installation begins with the installation of the frame, after which it is equipped with components and sheathing sheets. All welded joints are made with chamfering and processing of welds - slag removal and grinding.

On a note: After assembling the body, a thorough visual check of its tightness is carried out, as a result of which additional welding of the seams is carried out.

Grids (steel grating) and a heat exchanger are installed in the finished housing, which is connected to the heating circuit by welding.

The body of a solid fuel boiler at the stage of installation of external stiffeners

Important! It is better to entrust the manufacture of a stainless steel storage tank with its insertion into the circuit to professionals, since working with this material requires special equipment and practical skills.

Upon completion of the assembly, for corrosion protection, the boiler is painted with two layers of heat-resistant paint with preliminary surface preparation.

Heat-resistant paint Ecoterra for coating surfaces exposed to high temperatures

A self-made heating boiler is distinguished by its durability and ease of maintenance, which consists in periodic cleaning of the furnace ash and maintenance of the chimney.

Conclusion

After the assembly is completed and the unit is equipped with all the necessary elements, it is pressure tested with water under pressure, based on the results of which defects are eliminated, and then a set of commissioning works. Do not neglect the installation of a draft regulator, which will facilitate the operation of a solid fuel boiler in various weather conditions.