Canadian log houses in Canada. Canadian log house cutting. Description of technology. Why is it worth building according to Canadian logging?

Canadian log houses in Canada.  Canadian log house cutting.  Description of technology.  Why is it worth building according to Canadian logging?
Canadian log houses in Canada. Canadian log house cutting. Description of technology. Why is it worth building according to Canadian logging?

Canadian Cutting

The main advantage of Canadian felling, undoubtedly, is the minimization of gaps - cracks on the sides of the bowls, after the logs shrink. This advantage still does not 100% exclude the appearance of cracks at the joints of logs, as well as cracks on the log itself.

And therefore, the use of sealant, subsequently, and often during the construction stage, is INEVITABLE. And it turns out that talking about the absence of cracks becomes inappropriate. It is logical to ask: “Why then is this argument (about the absence of gaps) presented as an advantage? If the sealant closes ANY gaps anyway.

The second advantage is the visual effect, since the planes of the trims, even if they are poorly (not Canadian) executed, add a positive feeling to the log house. However, this is, as they say, a matter of taste, and there is no arguing about tastes.

For “hunting is worse than bondage”, if a person wants, let him do it - We are “For”, with both hands!

The disadvantages include a significant reduction in the thickness of the logs at the joining points, i.e. in the corners. Especially with double stitching (both above and below). This, as a consequence, reduces the thermal insulation of the corner.

And also, since the sapwood is completely removed from the corner, the working life of this connection is reduced. It's simply durability. Illiterate execution further aggravates this problem.

Want to know our opinion about Canadian logging?

The myth that CANADIAN CUTTING is Cool.

You can PR and Exploit any popular topic, but there is a Fact that you cannot avoid. You can only “close your eyes” to it. Or Don't see it because you haven't studied the topic.

Where is the ancestral home of the Canadian logging?

It's very simple if you ask yourself:

Where could the North American Indians have developed log houses? If they mainly led a nomadic lifestyle, then why did they need log houses? The real history of Russia has deep roots. Those who don't like it know this very well. And the great-grandchildren of those Russians who walked with their feet across the lands of once Russian Alaska are learning more and more.

If the well-forgotten old is passed off as “new” - this will be another brand and money out of thin air. Because there are many who like to repackage a well-known product into a “new” one. It sells better that way. Since “it differs in that...” And there is more freedom with arguments.

This method of connecting a log structure justified only in certain cases. And not without its shortcomings.

To start...

Name: “Canadian cabin” comes from an artificial surge in the popularity of this sophisticated technology in Canada. Its roots are in Russia, for it was brought from there, as one of the many varieties of Russian cutting. This technology is found in different nooks and crannies of the world. And residential buildings made of logs using this technology acquire a certain special attractiveness due to the geometry of the connections. Especially if they are executed COMPETENTLY, because there are also “other” executions...

It’s called “As we could” and “as we could.” This is “refinement”. One can only laugh at this kind of “refinement,” because the log becomes so thin at the joints that the cups sometimes break off.

To prevent the groove from “climbing” onto the edge, you need to sacrifice the groove, making it Already. And such a narrowing of the groove width will naturally worsen the thermal insulation. You can simply compare: will the groove width be 15-18 cm (up to 25 cm), or 7-8 cm, and sometimes 6 cm? These are places in the wall 6 cm thick! Well, where is this good?

Disadvantage of Canadian Logging The problem is that too much thickness is cut off from the entire log mass. This is undesirable for a log house. Moreover, the undercuts in the bowls are hewn out. And it turns out a little deep.

If you make an upper notch, and then another lower one, then from the entire mass of the log there remains an “isthmus” with a cross-section of less than 30% of the log’s cross-section. A small triangle from the circle remains.

Usually they put a thick tangle of insulation in there and think that everything turned out great. But what can you do with the fact that the log is cut by 70-75%, 25-30% remains and the edges are very poorly protected? And you have to make special efforts to ensure that they can withstand loading. Especially transportation. Otherwise, it may simply not withstand the shock or pressure on the road or during loading.

There was a case in our practice: A team was cutting down a house using Canadian technology, with double slabs. This was a long time ago and was a big curiosity back then.

The foreman with sparkling eyes told everyone about the Canadian cabin. Even then, from his stories, we had questions about this technology.

When we looked WHAT they are cutting down, our fears were confirmed. And then they cut, one might say, “a C grade.”

The connections in the corners seemed so weak, since the logs in the corners were heavily sawed through, that they seemed to be very unreliable. And one element, it was a one and a half meter long extension under the balcony, was somehow restless to look at. Not only was the thickness of the bowl “nothing”, but it also had no lower stems. It felt like he was just hanging in the air and was about to fall.

I say to the foreman: “Well, it might fall off you.” And he answered me that he was not going to correct the mistakes of the designers, as it was drawn - that’s how we do it.

Well, as a result, it fell off when loading it into the car. And what the balcony is now supported on is unknown. How they solved this problem is not known.

And it turns out that you need a competent approach, taking into account these nuances, which allows you to avoid such troubles.

If Canadian logging is what you want, we can perform it this way,

What You will sleep peacefully.

To do this, you just need to deviate from some of the canons established for Canadian logging, and everything is guaranteed to fall into place.

Let's not hide that one of the most popular technologies for constructing wooden houses is Canadian logging.

  • This technique is unique and is distinguished by the positive specifics of Norwegian and Russian technology collected in it.
  • Let us consider in more detail the most important nuances and features of this method.
  • The Canadian log house is distinguished by its features and specific specifics, which are important to study more carefully.

1 The cost is quite high due to the fact that the process is very labor intensive. However, the expense is compensated by the positive differences compared to manual cutting methods.


2 In Canadian cutting technology, several types of grooves are used: traditional semicircular and M-shaped. The main distinguishing feature of the Canadian cup is the presence of side edging. To accurately cut through all the shapes, specialized equipment is required. During the marking process, a compass of a unique design is used. Carpenters use axes to finish cutting grooves and bowls. Due to the high complexity of the Canadian bowl, the most important equipment and tools are the high professionalism of the employees and their experience. Without this, Canadian logging is impossible. Without false modesty, we note that we are proud of our craftsmen - they have no equal in this labor-intensive task!


3 The finished Canadian log can be quickly distinguished from the rest; externally, it is created like this: a groove with edges is cut on top of the wood, and a “tail tail” is made at the bottom - a tenon. Due to such a complex design, the finished log house is not completely ventilated. After the shrinkage process, it jams itself.

Alternate stages of Canadian logging

If we do not take into account the nuances of wood harvesting and drying, then it is quite possible to divide all the fundamental actions into stages of construction of structures.

1 Having our own base, which is equipped with modern equipment, we select all the necessary design parts. We divide them into suitable and not. When dividing, we take into account important factors: the size of the logs, the technical condition after drying. If defects are detected, the wood is recycled. From wood that has obvious flaws, auxiliary lumber is made.
For Canadian log houses, we choose exclusively smooth wood, which is of impeccable quality and has the following dimensions: length from 6 to 12 meters, and diameter from 280 to 500 mm or more.
After this stage, our specialists perform primary processing - remove the bark. A special tool used to remove the bark (scrape) allows you to clean the surface as efficiently as possible and not damage the protective layer: “sapwood”.
Another effective processing method that our specialists use is “hydrobarking”. In this case, the bark is removed under the influence of high water pressure.

2 The Canadian log house is delivered to the customer’s territory in the form of a carefully packaged structure. Delivery is carried out using special transport.


4 According to the markings created on the logs, the process of assembling the log house begins. Canadian bowls are compacted during assembly, which is guaranteed to eliminate blowing and also protect the frame from moisture and rotting. An accurate calculation of the percentage of shrinkage of the structure is made.


5 During the installation of the log house, it is antiseptic. In this case, professional products are used that are guaranteed to help eliminate any appearance of various fungi and insects.

The cost of this work varies in Moscow, but our company offers affordable prices for such high quality housing.

Advantages of Canadian logging

Accordingly, the construction process is quite labor-intensive and complex, but thanks to the many advantages it is worth it.

  • Excellent thermal insulation, thanks to the extraordinary shape of the groove, a perfect connection of logs is achieved.
  • During the processing process, the entire top layer is preserved, which has a beneficial effect on the main factors: freezing, cracking, curling - all parameters increase. The room has its own microclimate.
  • High quality and natural beauty of textures make the house truly unique. Such a house does not require finishing, which significantly reduces overall costs.
  • It is worth considering the fact that the quality of a constructed house depends 90% on the experience of specialists.

Taking this into account, we offer professional services to our company “Vityaz-Stroy”. Our employees are highly qualified craftsmen who are guaranteed to build the log house of your dreams!

Corner notches are the basis of the construction of the walls of wooden houses. There are two types of corner joints - without remainder (into the paw) and with remainder (into the bowl, into the oblo).

Types of corner chopped joints

Corner notches are the basis of the construction of the walls of wooden houses. There are two types of corner joints - without remainder (into the paw) and with remainder (into the bowl, into the oblo). Each of the mentioned types of cabins, in turn, has different design options, which differ in the complexity of manufacturing, details and efficiency.

Corner chopped joints with a remainder (release) are distinguished by the protruding ends of the logs at the corners of the log house. With this construction method, the size of the room will be slightly smaller than the length of the logs, but such a corner design is the most durable and well protected from precipitation and wind, and has a more beautiful aesthetic appearance. The integrity and strength of the entire structure of a wooden house, thermal qualities and aesthetics depend on the quality of the felling.

Cuttings with residue or release

Felling in the oblo

The leading method of cutting with residue in terms of simplicity and considered one of the oldest in Russian wooden architecture. Another method of chopping is called chopping into a bowl. An inter-crown longitudinal groove (lunar groove) and a special bowl are created in the lower log - a semicircular cavity, into which a transverse log is placed on top. This method is the least labor-intensive, since the log does not have to be turned over - all necessary operations are carried out in the upper part of the log. But it is worth considering that such a connection cannot boast of high performance properties. Firstly, the design, designed with the bowl up, is poorly protected from atmospheric influences - moisture easily gets into the bowl, due to which the insulation gets wet and rots over the years. The same situation is observed with the groove between the logs. Secondly, the flat inner plane of the bowl, due to the absence of locking or transverse elements, is easily blown by the wind. The situation especially worsens after the logs dry out and shrink, so regular caulking will be necessary.

Cutting in the hole

Cutting into the okhlop is also known as the Siberian bowl or ohlupen. It is an inverted version of the bowl connection. Its design feature is that the crown groove and bowl are now located at the bottom of the upper log. This type of corner connection is more resistant to precipitation. Cutting in the clap requires more labor and skill in execution, in comparison with the above-mentioned chopping in the clap, since the log has to be turned over several times during the fitting process. As practice shows, chopping in the clap can be called chopping in the clap, so it is advisable to clarify everything in detail and discuss in detail with the performers all aspects of the connection - the location of the grooves, bowls and other subtleties.

Cutting into a fat tail

The fat tail cut is distinguished by an improved bowl. In the design of the bowl, a special additional spike is created, called a fat tail. On the other side of the log, a groove is created into which the tenon of the next log is inserted. This cutting method is notable for the fact that it provides excellent strength and additional sealing of corners, since in this case direct blowing is negated.

When chopping into the fat tail, the bowl can be oriented both up and down. This type of connection is technically much more complex than conventional bowls. However, due to its excellent performance characteristics, fat-tail cutting is widespread. This type of cutting is often called cutting in the area with a notch or with a spike. In fact, this is a completely different type of connection, which is described below.

Hook cutting

When talking about this type of cut-to-hook connection, it is worth noting that in practice and in specialized literature, cut-to-hook can refer to two completely different designs of corner notches. Based on this, we will pay attention to both.

The first option is notable for the fact that the bowl is selected only to the middle of the log (from the axis of the log on one side). A semicircular groove is created from the top side of the log to the unselected remainder of the bowl. Unlike many other notches, thanks to this connection method, the corner is completely protected from through blowing. The hook cutting method is considered very durable and warm. However, it is worth considering that connecting with a hook is a very labor-intensive process and requires great skill.

The second option differs in that it involves cutting off the inside of the logs and achieving a right angle with smooth internal walls. To some extent, the configuration of the joint of this notch resembles the above-mentioned bowl with a notch. The only difference is that from the inside the log is trimmed to a quarter of its diameter, and a tenon-cut is created equal in length to the size of the hem.

Canadian cabin

Canadian cutting, despite having common features with fat tail cutting, differs significantly from it in shape. Unlike the round Russian bowl, the Canadian cutting is trapezoidal in shape. The Canadian bowl is selected from the log at the bottom. Just as when joining into a fat tail, in a Canadian cut a spike is left inside the bowl. On the top side of the log, inclined edges are created, repeating the contours of the bowl of the log lying on top and the groove for the tenon. The Canadian bowl is famous for its strength, tightness, and therefore warmth. The most important advantage of the Canadian lock compared to a round bowl is its shrinkage behavior.

In a log house with round bowls, the following situation is observed - as the logs shrink and shrink, their diameter decreases, while the parameters of the bowl remain practically unchanged. This leads to the appearance of cracks in the corners that need to be caulked. But the “cunning” design of the Canadian lock, under the influence of shrinkage, on the contrary, jams even more camo. All this guarantees excellent tightness and absence of cracks.

It is worth noting that the Canadian cabin consists not only of a non-standard shape of the lock, but also includes a whole range of technological nuances, which, only in the case of impeccable execution, ensure excellent tightness of the structure for many years.

One of the advantages of Canadian logging is the complete absence of gaps between the logs. This characteristic feature is observed not only in newly erected log houses, but after their shrinkage and shrinkage. Thanks to this, you only need to put the insulation into the crowns once and never have to think about caulking again.

Cutting into the saddle

Saddle cutting is a simplified method of Canadian cutting with a tenon. The only difference in this option is that a tenon is not made in the bowl and a corresponding groove is not created in the upper part of the log. The rest of the design is similar to the Canadian castle.

Norwegian cabin

Norwegian logging is almost identical to Canadian logging. The only difference between the Canadian and Norwegian deckhouse is the carriage. The Canadian cabin is made from a log, and the Norwegian one is made from a gun carriage. Norwegian cutting is made from a carriage, this is the so-called oval log. Two parallel sides of a log are sawed off or cut down on both sides, which makes the log oval along its entire length. The angle of the lock with ribs and tenon is similar to the Canadian lock. Thanks to the smooth surfaces of the carriage, the walls are smooth, and the volume of the room increases. The appearance of a Norwegian log house made from large-sized carriages is very impressive, the unique design of each carriage, the power and color of the house.

Cuttings without residue

Connection in paw

This type of connection has a number of advantages over cuttings with residue. Firstly, material consumption is significantly reduced, which means construction costs are reduced. Secondly, the rooms are more spacious. Thirdly, from the outside the corners look completely straight. However, this connection method also has significant disadvantages. The main disadvantages of paw cutting are lower structural strength, increased airflow, and susceptibility to the negative effects of precipitation. To eliminate these shortcomings, the corners of the log houses must be additionally lined from the outside.

There are two options for chopping with the paw - an oblique paw (dovetail) and a straight paw.

Straight paw

With this type of felling, a small distance is retreated from the corner and the log begins to be cut from the sides first. Next, a “paw” is made at the end of the log - they create an even rectangle, which must fit perfectly with the identical neighboring one. The main secret that needs to be taken into account at the very beginning of felling is that to create the first “paw” you need to choose a thinner log and start from its narrow edge. Otherwise, if you start the procedure with a large-diameter log, you won’t be able to make a rectangle on thin logs. The resulting width and length on all logs will be the same, but the height will be different, since it is determined by the diameter of the log.

As a rule, they try to supplement a straight paw with a rectangular root spike from its inner corner. This is done in order to achieve better performance properties, since in its pure form a straight paw is a rather weak connection. A tenon is created on the upper edge of the paw, and a groove for it is selected from the lower side.

Koka paw

Cutting into an oblique paw is a more complex joining method. In this case, the shape of the paw is significantly modified; now it represents a trapezoid, two planes of which are inclined. The features of the shape formed the basis for the name “dovetail” (Fig. 2). This joint configuration provides greater corner strength than a “straight paw”. However, this type of connection is very labor-intensive and can only be done by highly qualified craftsmen.

The oblique paw can have an even more improved configuration - with a spike, which significantly improves its strength. When building using an “oblique paw” connection, a template is removed from the first paw, for example, from plywood, and the remaining ends are marked according to it.

When chopping with an oblique paw, you can use GOST 30974-2002 to select the correct connection options. GOST establishes geometric dimensions for the paw, determined by the diameter of the log. This will be especially advisable if the logs have almost the same diameter or if a rounded (calibrated) log is used.

DESIGN FEATURES OF LOG WALLS

Despite the fact that wooden architecture has a long history, traditional technologies gradually undergo changes over time, increasingly acquiring modern features. This also applies to wooden log houses. Traditional structural components, used for the construction of log walls since ancient times, are gradually supplemented with various technical details that make it possible to improve the performance characteristics of log walls. Next, we will touch on various design techniques that can be used to compensate for a number of shortcomings that arise due to shrinkage of logs.

Connecting logs along the length

When building large wooden log houses, developers usually face a situation where the length of the wall exceeds the length of the log. The standard log length is 6 meters. In this case, the logs need to be butted together at their ends. So that the joints are not visible from the outside, the end connections of the logs are made exclusively inside the cuts. It is important to take into account that it is impossible to lay only all butted crowns in a row in height. A solid log must go through at least three rows of joined crowns. However, dressing with a solid log is ideally best done every row. In cases where the house has a long blank wall that does not intersect with other internal walls, an additional cut is made from short sections of logs in this wall, into which all joints are removed.

To connect logs along their length, a dovetail configuration with a tenon is traditionally used. This type of connection is quite simple to perform, but due to the shrinkage of the logs, its strength may decrease over time.

To join logs in a cut, another method is often used. With this connection method, the logs are attached to dowels. For each log being joined, a distance of approximately 1/4 of the log diameter is set aside from the end and a hole is created for the dowels. This hole is continued in the adjacent perpendicular log. The joined logs, after installing the dowels, are carefully connected to the perpendicular logs of the cut.

Another very common way to connect logs is to tie them with threaded rods. In this method, grooves are created on top of the joined logs at a short distance from the ends, and a cut is made from them to the end. Then a pin with nuts and washers at the ends is placed in it, then the nuts are tightened, pulling the logs together. To ensure longevity of the connection, the grooves (ideally also logs) should be antiseptic with special wood preservatives.

Undercut

One of the most important components of the construction of log walls is the design of the interventional groove, also called the lunar groove. To achieve a perfect connection of logs, the inter-crown groove should have a slightly smaller radius than the log itself. Then the log is adjacent to its neighbor with two ribs very tightly, and inter-crown insulation is placed in a small gap in the center of the groove. In this case, the edges of the groove protect the seal from getting wet. This design has another significant advantage. Due to shrinkage of wood, logs become covered with cracks on the bottom side. The log literally “sits” when the edges of the seam slightly diverge. As a result, the logs, after shrinking the frame, fit even more tightly to each other. But if in the design the groove of the upper and the radius of the lower logs are identical in size, then after a crack appears, the edges of the groove will move apart, which will lead to the appearance of cracks between the logs that will need to be caulked.

This specific design of the lunar groove is the main difference between traditional and modern cutting technologies. In the old days, to insulate inter-crown joints, they traditionally used tow or moss, and repeatedly caulked the joints of logs. Nowadays, special rolls made of natural materials, such as tape jute, are used as interventional insulation; the width of the materials is selected depending on the width of the groove.

Compensation cut

The use of a compensation unloading cut carried out on top of the log is another modern improvement of centuries-old technologies. The name itself already eloquently makes it clear that the cut is created in order to relieve excess internal stress in the log. The location of the cut was chosen for a reason, because the cut is securely covered by the next log, which prevents moisture from penetrating into it. The cut expands during the drying process, but the number of cracks throughout the log, and most importantly their depth and size, decreases.

The cut is made along the axis of the logs, but does not protrude to their ends and does not pass through the locks. The absence of a cut at the ends is a very important point. After all, the indentations from the ends and cuts are created not for decoration, but to prevent the penetration of cold air from the street into the wall through the outer ends. This is especially important if the building has walls, the inner end of which faces the house, and the outer end faces the street. In this case, creating a cut along the entire length of the log will lead to through blowing of the wall, which will lead to the need for additional sealing.

Hanging corners

This technology applies to all compounds with a remainder. The technology of hanging external corners can significantly reduce the appearance of inter-crown cracks after shrinkage of the log house. The essence of the technology is that the inter-crown grooves on the protruding ends of the logs are selected a little stronger, so as to achieve a 5-8mm gap between the logs. As a result, the logs stick out freely in the air without leaning on each other.

The advantage of this design solution is that, when exposed to air, the outer ends of the logs dry out much less than the rest of the log. As the log house shrinks, the gaps gradually become smaller, and the ends, in turn, shrink more tightly. While the absence of gaps would lead to the log hanging on the external outlets. In this case, gaps would form on the inner parts of the corner, since the internal diameter of the logs would be slightly larger than the diameter of the outlets.

CONSTRUCTION OF LOOM

When constructing a log house, horizontal waterproofing is laid under the first crown. It does not allow the wood to come into contact with the plane of the foundation, preventing the penetration of moisture and preventing the appearance of mold and rotting of the log house.

The laying of the first crown begins with half-logs, on top of which full-fledged round logs are then laid. Particular attention is paid to laying the first crown; all operations must be carried out with extreme precision. Place it in a horizontal plane on the foundation, maintaining right angles. Be sure to antisepticize the first crown.

An inter-crown seal is laid between the rows of logs. To ensure that the sealing material does not move during the assembly of the crowns, it is recommended to secure it using a furniture stapler.

To join logs, dowels (dowels) are used, placing them at a distance of 1.5-2 m from each other. Dowels used in wooden house construction are round rods (shafts) made from wood of stronger species (oak, birch) than logs; their diameter is 25-30 mm. For them, the installation simultaneously drills a through hole in three logs. The length of the dowel should be 20% less than the hole prepared for it. Nagel in macce walls are placed in a checkerboard pattern.

After installing the entire frame, logs and beams, rafters are cut in, then the subfloor and roof are installed. The roof is made temporarily, covered with roofing felt or film. The log house is treated with an antiseptic, and the construction site is preserved for a year, because... The log house should shrink within a year.

After shrinkage of the log house, the final installation of the rafter system and subfloors is carried out. In the process of shrinking the log house, gaps appear after the wood dries out, so it is necessary to re-caulk the log house, then sand it and cover it with finishing impregnation (oil, varnish, paint, stain, etc.) of which there is a huge amount today. The rafter system is re-tightened and the roof is installed, and then all the necessary internal finishing work. Windows, doors, finished floors and ceilings, electrical and plumbing are installed.

Articles on construction

Wood finishing materials

Wood finishing materials are the best for life. When the difficult stages of planning and building your home are behind you, you are on the threshold of perhaps the most creative stage of work - finishing the house. And if a wooden house, as a rule, does not need external decoration, then internal decoration, even the most minimal one, is necessary.

Canadian logging allows you to build durable and energy-efficient houses and bathhouses from logs of different diameters. Thanks to the internal spike in the bowl, the lock self-jams, the walls are airtight, and the joints do not come apart in the corners. Such log houses do not need re-caulking! Carpenters from ROYAL CEDAR have been practicing the construction of log houses using Canadian technology since 2002.

The history of the appearance of Canadian logging

In the mid-18th century, Russian settlers brought this technology to Canada. The local population (Indians and Eskimos) did not know this method of building wooden houses.

In Russia at the same time, architects preferred faster and less labor-intensive cutting methods. Arriving in Canada, Russian craftsmen were forced to adapt Russian cutting to local conditions, sacrifice speed and simplicity, giving preference to reliability and thermal efficiency.

Now Canadian log houses are popular not only in North America and Canada, but also in other countries, including Russia.

Advantages

It is profitable to build houses and baths with “ROYAL CEDAR”! Only we:

  • We carefully select building materials. We have a production site and logging plots. We don't buy timber, we cut it ourselves in the Siberian taiga! Each tree is inspected by a master with twenty years of experience and checked with an ultrasonic flaw detector. For construction, blanks with good indicators of curvature, density and resin content are used. Our logs have no visible or hidden defects. Unsuitable specimens are rejected and used for lumber production.
  • We develop detailed projects. The sketch part is a sectional view of the frame, a layout with an explication of the premises and a foundation plan. All documents necessary for production are contained in the constructive section: cutting maps for all types of lumber, diagrams for laying crowns and wall layouts. All design documents are created automatically, which eliminates errors. Our log houses are cut in strict accordance with design developments, and each item in the estimate can be justified with documentation.
  • We hire the best carpenters and finishers. We build turnkey houses and bathhouses. We do not involve subcontractors in our work; we carry out all design, construction and finishing work ourselves. Our staff employs the best Siberian carpenters and all-round finishers, so we are confident in the result. All work is our guarantee!
  • We offer prices from the manufacturer. Projects from ROYAL CEDAR contain documents that allow you to save: cutting maps for wall material and specifications for all lumber. We are manufacturers and do not work with intermediaries. Our Customers pay only for the material and work of our craftsmen. Remuneration for intermediaries and resellers is not included in the construction budget.

Canadian felling: technology features

  • Canadian cabin combines the characteristic features of Russian and Norwegian styles. Large diameter logs are suitable for construction, which are carefully adjusted to each other when assembling the structure.
  • Carpenters make a special “lock”: in the lower crown a tenon is cut out in a wedge-shaped bowl, and in the upper crown a trapezoid-shaped bowl is cut out. Under the weight of the logs, during shrinkage, the fastening becomes tightly jammed, thereby achieving complete tightness of the “lock.”
  • Full matching of bowls in shape and self-jamming of the “lock” minimize the risk of connections being exposed over time. Atmospheric moisture does not penetrate inside the corner. The insulation located in the grooves retains its natural properties for a long time.
  • Using Canadian technology, they make double-sided kneading logs at an angle of 45 degrees. The length of the notch is equal to twice the diameter of the log.
  • For Canadian log houses, logs processed with a stapler are used. This tool allows you to very carefully debark the workpiece, leaving the sapwood intact. Such logs look original, and log houses made from them last a long time.
  • The grooves are made with an adze, the wood is hewn along the grain. This allows you to clog the pores and resin channels. This “preservation” increases the service life of wood.
  • For Canadian logging, it is recommended to use logs with a diameter of 400 mm or more. We build from cedar, pine and larch with a diameter of up to 700 mm.

Features of Canadian logging logs

  • Tightness. A log house with round bowls, after shrinkage, requires caulking or treating the walls with acrylic sealant using the “Warm Seam” technology. The appearance of cracks is associated with a decrease in the linear dimensions of the log due to shrinkage. In the Canadian cabin this problem is not present: the inclined edges of the lock and self-jamming under the weight of the crowns and roofing system maintain the tightness of the connections. No cracks appear in such a log house, the cut remains sealed.
  • The walls look monolithic. There are no gaps between the crowns; this is maintained throughout the entire life of the log house. The insulation remains inside the log, it is not visible and is reliably protected from environmental influences.
  • Beautiful appearance. The notches on a large diameter log look original. In the construction of elite log houses, logs with expressive butts are used. The ends are shaped “under a wedge” or “in a run-up pattern”. French and straight end cuts are also available. Our carpenters have an original technique for drawing butt parts. Large-diameter logs processed in the “wild” style or with partial debarking are widely used. The massive chopped trusses that decorate the entrance look original.

Diamond bowl or Diamond edging

  • Construction of houses in a diamond bowl requires high skill from carpenters, because this is a very complex technology. The difference from the usual Canadian method is the number of stitches - they are performed not on one side of the crown, but on two:
  • A large number of edges intersect in cuttings, which looks like a diamond. This is where the name of this method comes from, with the help of which you can emphasize the natural shape of the butts and the beauty of the wood texture.
  • The pinnacle of craftsmanship Tightly fitted (up to a millimeter) corner joints of the crowns are considered.
  • Benefits of a Diamond Bowl the same as that of an ordinary Canadian one: complete tightness and absence of cracks after shrinkage of the log house.
  • The only drawbackdiamond cutting is to reduce the width of the thermal groove. It is for this reason that it is advisable to choose this type of felling when a wooden house is being built from logs with a diameter of more than 460 mm. In large log houses, diamond cutting looks especially elegant!

Composition of the house kit

  • Wall logs;
  • Natural moisture lumber for:
    • floors;
    • rafter system;
    • lathing;
    • floor or ceiling;
  • Inter-crown insulation “Klimalan”;
  • Dry birch dowel;
  • Ruberoid;
  • Protective compounds "Remmers";
  • Shrinkage jacks;
  • Hardware.

Construction time

Construction time depends on the complexity of the project, the diameter of the log and the workload of the production site.

On the one hand, the design does not seem to be the most complicated. On the other hand, few people work with the Canadian bowl. Why?

Because it’s not enough to just make a trapezoidal bowl shape, cut a tenon on the top log and a groove on the bottom. It is necessary to optimally calculate all dimensions so that the parts of the lock fit as tightly as possible to each other. Otherwise, all the advantages of such a cup will come to naught.

And only real professionals who have been working with hand-cut logs for years can cope with this task. At the same time, such a high-quality connection can only be made with the help of an excellent professional tool, which is quite expensive and not everyone has it.

What is the main advantage of cutting a log house into a Canadian bowl?

In the tightness of corner joints after shrinkage of the house. Unlike the classic Russian bowl, this connection of logs does not dry out after shrinkage. It's still tight!

It turns out that the joints of logs in the Canadian bowl do not need re-caulking? This is partly true. But not really!

It is impossible to predict how the tree will behave when it dries out. Therefore, it cannot be guaranteed that the Canadian bowl completely eliminates the need for subsequent caulking.

But we can guarantee that the amount of caulking work after the house has settled will be minimal and experienced craftsmen will cope with the task very quickly.