What is the level of the switch and socket from the floor. At what height is it best to install a switch in the house? Recommended standards for the installation height of sockets and switches

05.03.2020

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Installation of switches according to European standards. This option is more modern and, for some, more comfortable. With the European standard, switches are installed at a distance of 90 cm from the floor. This allows you to turn the light off and on without raising your hand or just passing by. Installation of switches at the request of the client. Our company's electricians will install switches clearly in those places where it will be convenient for you. Regardless of any standards and without compromising safety.

To understand this issue in more detail, let's start with switches.

There are three options for installing switches:

Soviet. It consists in installing switches at a distance of approximately 160 cm from the floor. For many people, this option was and remains the most suitable. Firstly, people are accustomed to the switch being at eye level, and secondly, this option is the most rational when there is low furniture in the area of the switch that does not allow the switch to be installed lower. Also a very important factor is the presence of children; children love to play with light, but in this version this is impossible.
Installation of switches according to European standards. This option is more modern and, for some, more comfortable. With the European standard, switches are installed at a distance of 90 cm from the floor. This allows you to turn off and turn on the light without raising your hand or simply passing by. at the request of the client. Our company's electricians will install switches clearly in those places where it will be convenient for you. Regardless of any standards and without compromising safety.

Installation of sockets.

Sockets can also be installed at different distances from the floor, but in this case the European standard for installing sockets is the most rational, since they are installed at a distance of 30 cm from the floor. This is much more convenient than the Soviet version we are used to, when they were installed at a distance of 90 cm from the floor, this allows you to comfortably use household appliances and hide wires. But here, too, you need to remember the purpose of the room in which the sockets are installed, since, for example, in the kitchen, sometimes wires are needed above the table where the equipment is directly used.

And a few words about the technical part of the topic of installing sockets; we all use European standard sockets, since those sockets that were installed in the recent past do not allow the use of most household appliances. There is such a thing as adapters, but their use is far from safe, as it can lead to fire. In European standard sockets, the diameter of the pins is 0.8 mm larger than in domestic ones. The distance between them is also different. The current strength in European sockets is 10 A or 16 A, in domestic ones - 6.3 A or 10 A. That is, in this case, the European standard for installing sockets provides great opportunities for using household appliances.

European standard for installation of sockets

Installing sockets according to European standards includes a list of many points that, according to some opinions, are best observed and carried out exactly as written. After all, all explanations from the manuals for constructing your own wiring refer to the European standard, which serves as your savior.

Despite the favorite sayings about the correctness of all the sayings of the European standard, about the established system that should be followed, the installation of sockets according to the European standard can take different forms. The basic rule is that the socket must be installed twenty to thirty cm from the floor; you can choose to install either an external or an internal socket; there is not much difference except for ease of use. According to the same European standard, switches should be at a height of 90 cm. But it should be remembered that the European standard is not always applicable for everyday life; your own comfort and ease of use play a big role. In this case, the socket can be placed based on your future intentions, because there is always a need for something; it is impossible to install a socket just like that, without knowing what it will be intended for.
When Western household appliances appeared in the post-Soviet countries, the population was faced with the problem of connecting these devices to our domestic outlets. To ensure uninterrupted operation of foreign household appliances and ensure safety, it was necessary to install sockets according to European standards. The adapters that came into practice did not justify themselves due to fire safety; they became sources of fire not only for devices, but also for surrounding objects, which endangered the lives of owners of household appliances.

Installation of sockets according to European standards is carried out taking into account the safety requirements for modern household appliances, including the choice of the optimal height of sockets, etc.

In European sockets, the diameter of the pins is 0.8 mm larger than in domestic ones. The distance between the pins is also larger. The current strength in European sockets is 10 or 16 A, in domestic ones - 6.3 or 10 A. It follows that installing sockets according to the European standard allows you to use a larger number of electrical appliances at the same time.

Regulations and standards for installing sockets and switches

There is no single norm or standard for the installation of sockets. There is a so-called European standard. According to these rules, there is no difference in which outlet to install (external or internal). Safety precautions and ease of use are important. Thus, according to the European standard, sockets are installed at a distance of 20-30 centimeters from the floor, and switches in the room are 90 cm from the floor, in the kitchen - 110 cm.

Euro sockets are somewhat different from domestic devices. The diameter of the pins and the distance between them in a European socket are larger. The current strength is also greater, almost twice: euro - 10-16 A, domestic - 6.3-10 A. Therefore, installing a socket or switch according to the European standard is more profitable, because allows you to connect several devices simultaneously.

In Russia, for a long time, another option for installing sockets and switches was in effect. 160 cm height from the floor is the Soviet standard for the location of the switch. Many people still find it the most convenient. The switch is in the eye's field of vision, allows you to install furniture nearby that will not block it, and is also safe for children who like to “click” the keys.
You can also choose a more original American standard for installing sockets. It provides not only a height from the floor (sink or kitchen table) of 30.5-41 cm, but also a certain distance between sockets in the room - 1.8 m, starting from the doorway.
Installing sockets and switches in different walls

To mark the outlet, its outline is outlined on the wall. When working on concrete, the hole for the socket box is hollowed out using a hammer drill with a diamond bit. The socket box can have different shapes: round or square. There are also installation boxes for concrete monolithic walls. To fix the socket box in the wall, use gypsum glue, ordinary plaster or building plaster.

The block in the socket box is attached with sliding tabs or screws. A plastic case is attached to the top of it.

You can also install an outlet or switch in a plasterboard wall. In this case, the hole is cut using a special tool.

When installing a socket in drywall, use a different attachment for a hammer drill. The process is somewhat different from installing an outlet in concrete or brick. All holes in the drywall are made in advance. Cables are pulled to the holes and lead out into the prepared holes. Socket boxes for hollow surfaces such as drywall have special claws. They hold the rosette on the sheet.

Electricians install sockets and switches with open wiring less and less often, since they spoil the appearance of the room. It’s much nicer when everything is hidden under the wall, everything is neat and aesthetically pleasing.
Requirements for modern sockets and installation:

When installing a socket or switch, do not confuse the order of connecting the contacts. It is especially important to remember this when connecting a three-pin socket with a grounding contact.
In addition to the fact that the installation height is not standardized by a single standard, the height of sockets that are intended for air conditioners and other devices with a grounding contact is also not standardized.
Sockets are installed with a current rating of 6 A, one per 10 m2 of area - per room, in a kitchen of any size - two sockets.
You can install a socket in a bathroom only at a distance of 0.6 m from the bathroom, and also subject to the following conditions: waterproof sockets are used, they are connected to a SELV or PELV power source, or are protected by an RCD.
You cannot install sockets in the bathroom under or above the sink. It is necessary to choose a wiring diagram that will eliminate network congestion, i.e. It is important to protect against overcurrent, otherwise the main fuse will not cope and there will be a short circuit in the device.
The contact between the plug and the socket should not be loose. Reliable contact will prevent the connector from heating up and will not lead to a fire or damage to the cable.
Live parts of the socket must be insulated from each other and also protected from contact.
Some modern sockets have protection against incorrect connection, when only one prong of the plug cannot be inserted into the socket.

Among the many electrical installation works, installing a socket and switch is one of the simplest, but this does not mean that it should be done as you please, without following certain rules.

Processed

If you are building a new house or doing major renovations to your apartment, you will definitely encounter electrical problems. It is best not to redo the existing household electrical network, but to reinstall the wiring, thinking through down to the smallest detail the location of the switching devices. In this case, quite natural questions will arise - what should be the height of the sockets from the floor where the switches are installed?

Main options

There is no such thing as officially accepted standards. There are only recommendations and requirements on how to install sockets and switches regarding communications (gas, water, heating pipes). Otherwise, the main thing is that the operation of electrical equipment is comfortable and safe.

Whether you install the switching devices yourself or seek help from a professional electrician, keep in mind that there are two most common options for how high from the floor they can be mounted:

installation of sockets and switches according to the so-called “European standard”;
"Soviet" installation system.

All these concepts are conditional; in fact, European standards and Soviet systems do not exist, it is simply more convenient to distinguish and determine what the installation height of sockets and switches should be.

The first option became widespread relatively recently, when in the post-Soviet space it became fashionable to carry out repair work in homes and offices and call it “European-quality renovation”.

There are no differences between repairs in Europe, America or Russia; they can either be good and of high quality, or not so good.

But it so happened that good and high-quality repairs were associated with punctual and neat Europeans and received the prefix “euro”. And the one that wasn’t very good was identified with everything Soviet and earned the corresponding name.

The “Euro” version assumes that the height of the socket from the floors is 0.3 m, and the switch is 0.9 m. According to Soviet standards, the switch was mounted at the level of the shoulders and head of an average person (1.6-1.7 m), and the sockets – 0.9-1 m from the floors.

Option for placing sockets for a TV in the video:

It is impossible to say which of these two options is preferable; everything here is purely individual. In the “euro” version, to control the lighting there is no need to raise your hand up to turn on the switch; it is located at the comfortable level of the lowered human palm. In addition, such a switching device can be turned on and off by a child.

Placing the switch at a distance of 1.6-1.7 m is advantageous when it is necessary to install some furniture under it (wardrobe, bookcase, refrigerator).

The “Euro” socket, located almost near the floor, is dangerous for a small child who has just learned to crawl and is interested in everything that catches his eye. In this case, of course, it is preferable to install sockets according to the Soviet version at a level of 1 m from the floor.

But as for sockets in which some kind of equipment is constantly plugged in, such as a TV, computer or stereo system, it is better to mount them as close to the floor as possible so that the wires do not stretch across the entire wall and spoil the appearance of the room.

General requirements and rules

Electricians have a main regulatory document - Electrical Installation Rules (ELR). Some “specialists” neglect this document, but then the quality of electrical wiring installation falls on their conscience.

click to enlarge

Rules are created in order to be guided by them, so we will give you basic recommendations on the required distance from the floor to an outlet or switch in various rooms:

In utility or utility rooms, the height of the mounted sockets from the floor is within 0.8-1 m. It can be increased to 1.5 m if the wires are supplied from above.
It is very important that the distance from the switching devices to the gas pipes is more than 0.5 m.
In residential and office rooms, the height of sockets from the floor should be such that it is comfortable to connect electrical appliances to them. It all depends on how the interior of the rooms is decorated, as well as on their functional purpose, but it is not recommended to install sockets higher than 1 m from the floors.

You can install sockets on special baseboards made of non-flammable materials.

The installation height of switches varies from 0.8 to 1.7 m. It is recommended to mount them on the walls on the side where the door handles are located. If lighting fixtures are controlled by cords, then it is permissible to install switches for them under the ceiling.

In rooms where children are constantly present, the height of installed sockets and switches is regulated by a figure of at least 1.8 m from the floor level. A very important condition: all sockets in children's institutions must have automatic protection, which will close the socket after pulling out the plug.
It is prohibited to install sockets in bathrooms and shower rooms, saunas and laundries. Their installation is permitted only in apartment bathrooms and hotel rooms. But they must have RCD protection (residual current device), and also be located in zone 3 (the division of bathrooms into zones will be discussed below). Sockets in bathrooms must be installed no closer than 0.6 m to the shower doors.

Recently, the installation of floor-standing models of sockets has become widespread; power is supplied to them in special baseboards (cable ducts). They are very good in terms of design (they are practically invisible), but care must be taken when wet cleaning the premises so that water does not get into them.

There are rooms in our residential buildings that deserve a separate discussion about installing sockets in them. This is a kitchen, stuffed with a huge variety of different household appliances, and a bathroom, which is a dangerous room due to dampness, of increased importance. Let's talk about these premises in a little more detail.

Kitchen

The main condition for an electrical element installed in the kitchen is that it should not be closer than 0.6 m to the water pipes and sink. The same applies to gas pipes and stoves; it is necessary to maintain a distance between them and sockets (switches) of at least 0.5 m.

About the design of sockets in the kitchen in the video:

In general, the situation with electrical kitchen wiring is the most difficult. Firstly, there are many communications located here - heating, water supply, sewerage, gas. Secondly, there are much more household appliances that require a separate power supply in the kitchen than in any other rooms (washing machine, water heater, hob, electric oven). In this case, you need to install the sockets in such a way that they are always accessible.

In kitchens, it is better to install these switching devices at three levels from the floor:

The first level (or lower) is 0.15-0.20 m. At this level, sockets are installed for electrical appliances that require constant or long-term connection to the network (washing machine, dishwasher, refrigerator, electric stove, waste shredder).
The second level (or middle) is 1.0-1.2 m. At this height, switches for lighting elements and sockets for household kitchen appliances (microwave oven, tester, blender, food processor, electric kettle, bread maker, coffee machine, multicooker, etc.) are made. P.). Choose a more precise distance yourself depending on the configuration of the furniture in the kitchen.

To make it easier to plug in household appliances, place the sockets slightly higher than the countertop.

The third level (or upper) is 2.0-2.5 m. An exhaust fan, additional lighting for work areas, and a TV are connected to sockets located at this height. Neither the switching devices themselves nor the cords going to them will spoil the kitchen interior, because they are almost invisible behind the furniture (wall cabinets).

It is permissible to place sockets under countertops or inside kitchen cabinets. To do this, special holes must be made in the walls of the furniture. This will help you save some space without ruining the overall look.

The minimum distance from the floor to the socket must be at least 0.1 m, otherwise water may get into it during wet cleaning (washing floors).

Bathroom

This room is divided into several zones:

Zone 0 (the inside of the bathtub itself or the shower tray).
Zone 1 (external vertical surface of the bathroom).
Zone 2 (this is essentially zone 1, increased by 0.6 m).
Zone 3 (the rest of the bathroom).

Sockets can only be installed in zone 3. Even if you really want to mount them near the mirror to make it convenient to use a hair dryer, electric razor or hair clipper, this is strictly forbidden (if the mirror is not in zone 3). In addition, sockets must have a degree of protection of IP44, due to the fact that the humidity in the bathroom is constantly high.

The socket for connecting a washing machine can be installed at a level from 0.3 to 1.0 m.
Additionally, in order to connect small household electrical appliances, sockets are installed at a height of 1.1-1.2 m.
To connect the boiler, it is better to mount the switching device at a height of 1.7-1.8 m.

In bathrooms, placing sockets lower than 0.15 m from the floor is prohibited. This is due to the familiar situation when they forgot to turn on the water tap or a household appliance broke down, resulting in a flood.

Water ingress into switching devices is unacceptable!

The location of sockets and switches is clearly shown in the video:

Light switches are typically located outside bathrooms.

As you can see, there are no strict rules when it comes to placing outlets. There are only useful tips, recommendations and individual requirements. Be sure to take them into account when planning installation locations for switching devices.

Why is it so important to place outlets correctly? What installation standards exist: description of domestic indicators and European standards. About this in the article.

At what distance from the floor to install sockets: all about placement in the kitchen and bathroom

The correct location of sockets is extremely important for creating safety, comfort during operation and optimal distribution of electricity in the apartment.

People, replacing wiring or starting repair work, ask themselves: at what distance from the floor covering should they install the socket? The material provides answers and useful information.

How important is it

Placing electrical wiring is one of the most critical tasks when renovating a home. At the beginning of the process, it is recommended to decide where the equipment, computer desk, and TV will be located. This is the only way to install sockets at a convenient distance. When drawing up a source equipment diagram, it is also important to take into account the size of the room, the total number of sockets and switches.

Not only the ease of use, but also the appearance of the apartment depends on the location of the connectors. Incorrectly positioned devices can spoil the impression of a repair. A connector installed in the middle of the room will look awkward and will be inconvenient to use.

At what distance are they installed in the room?

Let's look at European and Soviet options for mounting connectors and find out the height from the floor.

European installation standard

This term became popular after the introduction of the definition of “European-quality renovation”. Some users find the following arrangement of sockets and switches convenient:

switches at a distance of 90 cm from the floor surface (by passing by and without raising a hand, a person fixes the lighting in the room);
mounting electrical sources at a height of 3 cm from the floor (at this distance you can hide the wires and conveniently use household appliances).

When choosing European sockets, you need to know that the diameter of the pins and the length between them are greater than those of Russian models. The current strength of imported devices is 10-16 amperes, Russian ones - no more than 10. Therefore, more powerful devices can be inserted into such connectors.

Previously, sockets were fixed at a height of 90 cm from the floor, switches - at a distance of 160 cm. These indicators are no worse than the European standard and have a number of advantages:

the plug can be inserted into the electrical socket without bending over;
small children cannot reach the connector because it is installed at a height;
This location is convenient for equipment that does not need to be constantly connected to the network (air conditioners).

Minimum height from floor

The rules for the installation of electrical installations and the design of residential buildings do not contain clear requirements for the location of sockets and switches with regard to floor coverings, walls and other elements.

The Electrical Installation Rules state that the distance from devices and gas pipelines must be higher than 50 cm. In the bathroom it can be placed at a distance of 60 cm from the sink.

At what height are plug sockets installed?

The joint venture states that electrical installations must be installed anywhere at a height of up to 1 meter.

The distance from sockets for connecting electric stoves and air conditioners is not indicated. In schools, kindergartens are placed at a height of 180 cm from the floor. The recommended length from the floor covering is 1 meter.

The height and distance are determined by the owner of the premises. In some cases the following rules apply:

sockets are placed no closer than half a meter to the gas pipeline;
in the kitchen and bathroom, electrical installations are placed at a distance above 60 cm from the floor surface and water supply.

Plug connectors in homes must be protected with a special device that will prevent access to them when the plugs are pulled out.

Proper placement of switches involves installation on the wall at a distance of up to one meter from the side where the door handle is located or under the ceiling area with the cord.

After completing the installation of connectors for electrical devices and switches, the PUE indicates the need to carry out work regarding electrical measurements. They will allow you to identify violations, possible problems and completely secure the process of use in everyday life.

For proper and convenient placement of connectors and switches, it is first recommended to determine which way the door opens. Then the switches are placed on the side of the handles on the door leaves. This is done at a distance of 80 cm to 1 meter, depending on the height of the residents.

The placement of electrical installations depends on the type of room:

in a long corridor, on the staircase, sources are installed at the beginning and end of the path;
in the living room and bedroom it is comfortable when the switches are located at the entrance to the room and next to the sofa and bed to simplify the process of using lighting.

The length of electrical installations from the floor must be selected taking into account the location from which they will be accessible. For example, when entering a room, choose a height of 90 cm, next to an armchair or bed - 60 cm, so that it is convenient to reach with your hand.

At what distance are sockets and switches installed from each other?

Sockets are placed at the rate of 6A; 2 connectors are mounted per 10 square meters. In the kitchen, regardless of the area, there are two electrical sources.

The wiring diagram must be determined in such a way as to completely eliminate the possibility of network congestion. Connectors planned for frequent use should be located at a height of 30 cm. The distance between the centers of the socket boxes is 71 mm.

Height of sockets in kitchen and bathroom

The bathroom is a rather problematic place, since it has a high level of humidity and a high risk of water entering electrical installations. To install power supplies for household appliances, you need to know where to place the devices correctly. The bathroom is divided into zones:

Zone 0 is the most dangerous for moisture penetration. These are areas located next to the bathtub, shower stall, and sink. It is allowed to install 12 V sockets here. But this voltage is rarely supplied in private homes.
Zone 1 allows the placement of water heaters.
Zone 2 allows the installation of boilers, a fan, and a lamp. Power sources must be located at least 60 cm from the water.

They purchase special devices and switches that have high protection, allowing them to be used in wet rooms. Another prerequisite is the presence of grounding, a circuit breaker and an RCD with a leakage current of 10 mA.

Regarding the location of sockets in the kitchen, the SP and PUE are not written directly, so it is better to proceed from the basic requirements and take into account the characteristics of the room. What are the rules:

sockets and switches should be located at a distance above 60 cm from the floor and water sources - sinks, water pipes;
A gap of 50 cm must be maintained between the gas and the stove.

When it comes to electrical equipment in the kitchen, many difficulties arise: you need to take into account the location of communications, install separate lines for powerful appliances - a dishwasher, a washing machine, and install sockets in a convenient and practical place. A conditional standard for the location of electrical power in the kitchen has been formed. It divides the room into three levels:

There are no established standards governing the location of sockets in rooms and general premises. There is only one limitation - mounting above 1 meter in height is unacceptable. Standards relating to bathroom wiring have also been adopted.

Useful video

Both the construction of new housing and major repairs in a house or apartment involve a considerable amount of electrical work. This includes organizing the introduction of a common power supply line, creating a grounding loop and potential equalization, installing a distribution board with an energy meter, laying in-house electrical networks and distribution boxes, and, finally, installing lighting devices and custom electrical fittings - switches and sockets.

By and large, this, of course, is a task for electrical specialists. However, many works can be carried out independently, provided that the home craftsman has basic concepts in the field of physics, electrical engineering, organization of internal electrical networks and skills in general construction and electrical installation work. But it is also very important to know where exactly to place and at what height to install sockets and switches. There is a lot of debate on this issue, but there are still certain official rules and unofficial recommendations that need to be understood in more detail.

Basic parameters for the correct installation of sockets and switches

It should be noted right away that finding exact uniform standards for the height of installation of switches and sockets is quite difficult, for the simple reason that they do not exist. Some references to existing “European standards” are just a desire to copy the established fashionable trend of “European renovation”, the established tradition of installing electrical appliances in Western Europe.

By the way, installation standards existed for some time - it was they that guided builders when constructing residential buildings of mass multi-story buildings. Then all sockets were placed at a height of 900 ÷ 1000 mm from the floor surface (on level lowered hand), and switches - 1600 ÷ 1700 mm (at level eye). In most apartments of old construction, such wiring can still be seen. Many homeowners are accustomed to it, consider it convenient and have no intention of changing it.

What explains these parameters is difficult to say now. Perhaps this was caused by safety reasons - all sockets with wires coming from them are always in the field of view of residents, and children cannot reach the switches. On the other hand, the most dangerous points - sockets - remain accessible to children, and there are no special safety considerations in this, but a child under 8 ÷ 10 years old cannot put out the light on his own. Another probable reason for such an installation is that it was always carried out in rooms on top of the walls, and such placement of switches and sockets made it possible to significantly save on cables (on the scale of mass construction carried out in those years, the savings were serious).

However, today the accepted European standards are more in use, rather than the traditions of installing these elements of electrical fittings. What are they?

Some construction guides give the following recommendations (taking into account planning during the construction phase of the house):

Sockets – 400 ÷ 450 mm from the level of the subfloor (interfloor slab). Thus, after pouring the screed and installing the finishing floor covering, the height will be about 300 mm.
– 1000 ÷ 1050 mm from the rough surface, respectively, about 900 mm upon completion of finishing work.

How is this convenient? Sockets and included power cables are not noticeable and do not spoil the appearance of the room, and you can turn the light on or off with your hand down. It is possible to teach children to be independent (with adult supervision, of course) - the switch is within their reach .

It is worth mentioning right away that such “standards” exist only for ordinary living rooms. In other places, for example, in kitchens, the rules will be completely different - this will be discussed below.

There are special requirements for installing sockets and switches in institutions associated with children - in schools, kindergartens, etc. There, in order to avoid uncontrolled actions of children with electricity by teachers or educators, these fittings are installed equally high - at a height of no lower than 1800 mm.

So, if we talk only about the installation height of sockets in residential premises, then any owner of an apartment or house has three options:

1 — When making repairs, do not change the location of sockets or switches, or carry out the initial installation according to the usual “Soviet standards” if this seems more convenient and safer.

2 — Redesign the arrangement of the fittings elements according to the European traditions, which were mentioned above.

3 — Provide your own location based on personal preferences and convenience - this in no way contradicts the existing rules.

There are significantly more restrictions and recommendations for other installation parameters - they are set out in the current operating rules for electrical installations (PUE), and they must be taken into account:

The minimum installation height of sockets in residential premises is not regulated, the maximum is not higher than 1000 mm. Even their location at floor level is allowed - provided that special skirting boards with cable channels made of fireproof materials and special types of sockets.

Special socket placed on the baseboard - right at floor level

In industrial premises, however, it is recommended to install sockets at a height of 800 to 1000 mm, and with overhead network wiring, they can be raised to 1500 mm. We have already mentioned about children's and school institutions - at least 1800 mm from the floor level.
In apartment conditions, especially when children live in it, it is strongly recommended (although not a mandatory rule) to use sockets with protective rods that automatically close the holes when the plug is pulled out.

The optimal solution for apartments where young children live - sockets with protective curtains

Electrical wiring and electrical appliances should not be placed closer than 500 mm from gas supply risers, closer than 100 mm from window or door openings, less than 150 mm from the level of the main ceiling. If installation is planned false ceiling(suspended or tensioned), then both the wiring and the junction box must be below its level.
It is not recommended to install sockets in bathrooms. If you still can’t do without it, then it should be mounted at least 600 mm from the door of the shower stall or bathtub. In this case, a mandatory condition is the use of special sockets for wet rooms (with increased tightness of the housing and with spring-loaded protective covers), and with the obligatory power supply through a leakage current (differential current) of no more than 30 mA.

To finish the issue with the bathroom, you can add that you should not install sockets close to the floor surface. “Design” does not play a special role in such conditions, and it will be more convenient to use a hairdryer, curling iron or electric razor from an outlet located at a height of one or even one and a half meters. In this case, placing an outlet above the washbasin is absolutely excluded.

Switches are usually mounted on the wall at the entrance, on the side of the door handles. Installation height – from 800 to 1700 mm. If necessary, you can install them higher, providing, for example, the ability to turn on using a cord. Very often in small rooms (in hallways, kitchens, in rooms with a small area) it is necessary to combine sockets and switches in blocks - then the optimal height for such a block is considered to be about 900 mm from the floor - the “golden mean”.

In any case, no matter how the electrical fittings are located, it will be necessary to replace the old sockets with new ones, the so-called “European format”. Their hole diameter is 0.8 mm wider than the old domestic ones, and the distance between the contact pins of the corresponding plug is also slightly wider. Such sockets can withstand much larger loads - usually they are designed for currents of 10 or 16 A, respectively, for a load of 2.2 kW or 3.5 kW, respectively. (For comparison, old sockets withstood 6 A, that is, only 1.3 kW, which in the conditions of modern saturation of human life with electrical appliances is clearly not enough).

In addition, if there are no outlets connected to the old location ground loop- you will have to deal with this closely - most modern electrical appliances have three-pin plugs with grounding to ensure the safety of users (for some powerful household appliances, connection to ground loop is simply a prerequisite). Several are in a special publication on our portal.

Video: where to place sockets and switches on the wall

Prices for sockets, switches and frames

Sockets, switches and frames

Some nuances of installing the cable part

Once general repairs are being made, it is worthwhile to inspect the cable part - if the wiring is aluminum, it is recommended to replace it with copper, with a cross-sectional area of at least 1.5 mm². This cross section should be sufficient for fairly high currents. True, if you plan to install high-power household appliances, it will be necessary to lay more powerful lines.

Core cross-section copper wire, mm²	maximum current at long-term load, A	maximum power load, kW	rated current actuation circuit breaker, A	current limit actuation circuit breaker, A	scope of application at home (apartments)
1.5	19	4.1	10	16	lighting, alarm devices
2.7	27	5.9	16	25	socket blocks, floor heating systems
4	38	8.3	25	32	HVAC equipment, water heaters, washing machines and dishwashers
6	46	10.1	32	40	electric stoves and electric ovens
10	70	15.4	50	63	power input lines

It probably makes sense to dwell a little on the correct placement of electrical wiring.

Each outlet (or outlet block) must be powered from its own junction box

Each socket (group of sockets) or switch must have a supply from an individual mounting box. Make long hidden parallel connections from one to socket to the other is unwise, and in some cases can even be dangerous - this can easily lead to a reboot of this line with all the ensuing consequences.

Strictly vertical wiring must run from mounting boxes with sockets or switches. This is explained simply - you can always visually determine the location of the power cables in the thickness of the wall. If the line is laid in any order - at an angle (as in figure No. 3) or even vertically, but with an offset (Pos. No. 2) from the location of the socket (switch), then it can become an object of hidden danger.

After some time, and this happens quite quickly, the location of such non-standard wiring is forgotten even by its masters. Moreover, this will be a “surprise” for the new owners of the apartment. When trying, for example, to harmlessly hang a mirror or shelf, there is a high probability of hitting a drill on a live power line with all the sad consequences - a short circuit and the need for large-scale wiring repairs.

But on the ceiling surface of the floor slab, if a suspended or suspended ceiling is to be installed, the wiring can be placed arbitrarily, as a rule, at the shortest distance. If a NYM type cable is used, it will not even require additional protective insulation - it can be attached directly to plastic dowel clamps. Cables of another type (VVGng or VVG) are placed in a corrugated plastic pipe of the required diameter.

On the floor, under its decorative covering, power cables can also be located arbitrarily, at the shortest distance. However, there are special caveats here. So, if the floor is laid on wooden logs, then wiring, regardless of the type of cable, is allowed exclusively in metal pipes, regular or corrugated.

If you plan to screed, then corrugated plastic pipes are sufficient

If the wiring will be filled with a concrete screed, then it is usually placed in a corrugated plastic pipe.

The next question is how often should sockets be installed, are there any standards in this regard?

There is no specific answer. You can find recommendations - install them 1 piece per 6 ÷ 10 square meters of area. However, apparently, these “standards” are somewhat outdated, since the equipment of housing with electrical appliances is constantly growing. Therefore, it is probably advisable to think in advance about the placement of the main instruments and devices, to set a certain reserve in order to exclude in the future the use of all kinds of tees or extension cords. It is best if a plan is drawn up in advance with a fully thought-out arrangement of household items and the location of power points.

A well-designed diagram will be of great help in carrying out electrical installation work.

And one more very important note, or rather, good advice. When carrying out repair and electrical installation work, you must take the time to photograph all the cable laying lines, the placement of distribution boxes and other elements of the home electrical network, until they are hidden by plaster or finishing materials. It is advisable to take photographs in such a way that it is possible to link hidden objects to stationary elements. For example, with putting down dimensions from a window or doorway, corner of a room, heating riser, etc. - so that you can quickly and accurately find the required unit if any emergency, repair or maintenance work is required.

If you plan, then it is better to refer to a special publication on our portal, in which this issue is presented in more detail.

Prices for cables and wires for construction and repair

Cables and wires for construction and repair

Features of installing sockets and switches on kitchen

The kitchen is a special room for many reasons. Firstly, in terms of the degree of humidity and saturation with evaporation, it differs significantly from all other rooms. And secondly, a modern kitchen is the center of the maximum concentration of all kinds of household appliances. Many electrical appliances are used simultaneously during cooking or other household operations, so the level of total load is usually the highest here.

The table below shows the characteristics of the main kitchen electrical appliances - you can estimate the level of energy consumption when performing certain household tasks. If you consider that many of them require separate power lines, then you can imagine how many connection points need to be equipped in the kitchen (it is clear that tees in such conditions absolutely unacceptable and pose a serious fire hazard):

Type of household electrical appliance	Average power consumption	Features of connecting to power supply
Electric stove or hob	from 3500 to 12000 W	Individually routed power line
Electric oven	from 2500 to 10000 W	similarly
Washing machine	from 1500 to 3000 W	similarly
Water heater	from 2500 to 7000 W	similarly
Dishwasher	from 1500 to 3500 W	similarly
Microwave	from 700 to 2500 W	Can be connected to a regular 16 A outlet
Refrigerator (peak value - only at start-up)	from 500 to 2000 W	similarly
Electric kettle	from 700 to 1500 W	similarly
Kitchen processor	from 500 to 1500 W	similarly
Bread maker, steamer, etc.	from 700 to 2000 W	similarly
Toaster	up to 1000 W	similarly
Kitchen hood	from 500 to 1500 W	similarly
Waste shredder	from 400 to 1000 W	similarly

Obviously, a lot of sockets are needed. In addition, it makes sense to think about installing several additional switches - for example, for a waste shredder installed in the kitchen sink and for additional lighting of the workspace in the area of the cutting table, stove, and sink.

Here there can be no talk about any standards for the installation height of sockets - their location should be Firstly, provide convenience, the ability to access when such a need arises, safety of use, maximum protection from moisture, for stationary equipment - concealed placement of wiring. There can be many options here - one of them is shown in the figure:

It is clear that there are many options for placing built-in equipment, and if we add to this the variety of desktop electrical appliances and the features of their use (for example, there are housewives who whose favorite kitchen accessories are constantly “registered” on the desktop), then, most likely, the spirit of absolutely identical schemes will not be found. Therefore, there can be no copying here - the plan for placing the equipment and laying out the wiring to it is drawn up by each owner individually, but taking into account general principles.

The power of the supplied power lines (cross-section of copper wires) has already been discussed - just compare the data from the first and second tables above. However, another figure is provided that can help you decide on this issue.

An important condition is that the total power of all lines supplied to the kitchen should, with a large margin, ensure the possibility of simultaneous inclusion of all points of consumption. In practice, of course, this should not be allowed under any circumstances, but insurance is still necessary.

For the hob (electric stove) and for the oven ( IfThese are devices independent from each other) special power sockets are installed, designed for a maximum current of 32 - 40 A. The same thing if the stove and oven are dependent on each other.

Various models of power outlets for 32 and even 40 amperes - used for high-power household appliances

If a storage water heater (boiler) with a power of over 3.5 kW is installed in the kitchen, then I remember to connect it to a power outlet, or to a wall-mounted machine in a protective box. This unit operates in automatic mode almost constantly, and it doesn’t really need an outlet.
The installation of sockets for other built-in household appliances can be provided at several levels:

— On the wall, high up no higher than 100 mm from the floor level - this will allow you to place these fittings behind a standard removable furniture plinth.

- In kitchen cabinets - provided that this piece of furniture does not have retractable or folding elements - shelves, drawers, brackets, etc., which could snag an electrical cable.

- On the walls under the sink - at the maximum possible distance from water and sewer pipes. In this case, the outlet must be sealed with a moisture-proof cover.

— On the wall above the kitchen cabinets. There are usually sockets for range hoods, additional lighting devices, and sometimes for a built-in microwave or refrigerator. The height of the sockets in this case is no less than 50 mm above the level top surface closet

To connect tabletop kitchen appliances, the sockets are placed on the wall, approximately 100 mm from the level (this, as a rule, is at a height of 1150 mm from the floor level (if desired, it can be higher, up to 1400 mm). In this case, the socket blocks are never should be located above the sink or above the hob - they should be removed at least 250 ÷ 300 mm to the side.

Instead of such wall-mounted placement of socket blocks, special retractable or folding modules have now begun to be actively used - in the form of opening “books” or “columns” with sockets that slide up to connect.

Hidden socket block in the form of an opening “book”

It’s very convenient - the wall surface is “clean” and appears only when needed, and even when using the device, the connection point is removed from the table surface.

Another option for hidden placement of sockets is a rising “column”

What other principles should be taken into account when placing sockets:

A socket for built-in equipment can never be placed directly behind an installed device - it must be moved to the side, up or down.
The distance from the device to the power socket must not exceed 1000 mm.
All, without exception, lines going to the kitchen must have their own circuit breakers and RCD devices.

When planning the installation of power lines in the kitchen, of course, you should proceed from the actual characteristics of household appliances. It would probably be better to contact an electrical engineering organization - specialists should help draw up a project taking into account all the nuances and safety requirements. Based on this diagram, it will be possible to draw up a drawing with the placement of sockets “on the ground” - to determine the places for making sockets building in the wall and cutting out grooves for them.

It is possible that it will be possible to save some money on laying lines. For example, if the total power of the washing machine and dishwasher does not exceed 4 kW, then they can be “placed” on the same power line with a wire with a cross-section of 2.5 mm². Often one line is enough for a refrigerator and a specific outlet group. However, conclusions should still be drawn by a professional in this matter.

Video: not an easy task - the correct placement of sockets and switches in the kitchen

When renovating apartments or replacing electrical wiring, the question arises at what height from the floor to install sockets and switches.

There are two standards that determine the installation height: the old Soviet GOST and the European standard, the requirements of which have now been added to modern Russian rules and standards. In addition, when it comes to the location of sockets and switches, they are guided by common sense and ease of use.

The placement of electrical equipment in the bathroom is regulated by separate requirements, which should not be neglected for safety reasons.

Socket installation height

During the construction of buildings in Soviet time sockets were installed at a height 90 centimeters from the floor, which was not always convenient.

Implemented now European standard allows installation of sockets at a height of at least 30 centimeters from the floor. This option is more convenient in cases where the socket needs to be hidden behind furniture: under a computer desk, a TV stand, behind a chair. But in the kitchen, it is most rational to place sockets above the surface of the tables, so they are more accessible.

Socket for electric stoves installed at height 0.9-1 m from the floor so that, if necessary, it can be quickly turned off. But this arrangement spoils the appearance of the kitchen, so the socket can be lowered lower, provided that it remains accessible.

Socket for exhaust fan it is best to place it close to it, but no less than in 20-25 centimeters from the ceiling.

It is also advisable to install an outlet for a WiFi router in the immediate vicinity. It is usually located in the hallway so as not to extend the cable deep into the apartment to connect to the Internet. To connect to this cable, you can install a special socket next to the power outlet, and next to the TV - a socket for connecting a television cable.

When placing sockets in the kitchen, they should not be located:

behind the housings of built-in equipment;
inside cabinets;
above the sink;
above the stove.

Read a selection of articles about installing sockets in the apartment:

Switch installation height

There are two options for installing switches.

Installation at a distance of 160 centimeters from the floor level, as was customary in Soviet times. The switch is inaccessible to children, it will never be covered by furniture, and even for older people this option will be familiar.
Installation at a distance of 90 centimeters from the floor, as modern standards allow. This option is more convenient, since using the switch does not require raising your hand.

When using any option, the switches must be placed at a distance of 15-20 cm from the slope outside or inside the room from the side of the door handle.

Mandatory requirements for installation distances

When choosing the installation height of switches and sockets, the determining factor is achieving comfort in the home. But at the same time, it is necessary that the conditions of the current rules and regulations determining the distances from the switch or socket are observed:

0.5 m– to gas pipes, heating pipes and radiators;
10 cm– to window and door openings;
10 cm– to the corner of the room;
0.8 m- to the kitchen sink.

And remember: the location of electrical equipment in the bathroom is installed separate rules.

Consider the location and dimensions of the furniture when choosing locations for installing switches and sockets. Access to them after the completion of repairs is blocked by cabinets or tables. Therefore, the layout of the electrical wiring and interior is developed jointly and carefully. After the repair is completed, it is impossible to move a switch or socket without major alterations, since the wiring is already sealed in the grooves and wallpaper is glued over it.