What material to lay on the boards under the insulation. Insulation of floors in a wooden house and optimal heat insulators. Design and operating features of a wooden floor

Properly carried out floor insulation work is the key to maintaining a comfortable temperature in the house and minimal heat loss. Such work can be carried out both during the construction of a new building and in existing houses, for example, insulating the floor in a wooden house from below from the basement. Not only high-quality floor insulation, but also the correct choice of heat-insulating material will help achieve energy savings and reduce heat losses by up to 20%.

The presence of a basement in the house allows you to insulate the floor below Source oig-homes.com

Advantages of bottom insulation

From the point of view of labor costs, it is more profitable to insulate the floor from above. In this case, the insulating layer is mounted between the frame (joists) and the top finishing layer.

But in some situations, bottom insulation is preferable.

This method of thermal insulation is most often used in private houses with an uninsulated basement, garage, and in frame buildings on pile and pile-screw foundations.

Bottom insulation has a number of advantages:

the insulation layer is not subject to loads from furniture standing on the floor and people moving around the house, so you can use thermal insulation material of any hardness;

the height of the room does not decrease;

Not only the top flooring, but also the entire floor frame is protected from freezing, which reduces the likelihood of freezing and water getting on the wood - this increases the service life of wooden structures and ensures their reliability.

It is more expedient to insulate a house on stilts from below Source valet.ru

Thermal insulation materials

The choice of insulation for a wooden house is based on two criteria: non-flammability and the ability to resist the formation of mold fungi and other microorganisms. But when choosing a material for lower insulation, the specific situation and the intended installation method are taken into account.

Before purchasing materials, it is better to consult with a contractor than to insulate the floor in a private house from below. Most often used:

mineral wool;

Styrofoam;

penoplex;

• expanded clay

Minvata It is considered one of the best insulation materials, so many people prefer it. A plus is good sound insulation performance. Cotton wool is not subject to biological destruction and does not burn.

Cons: low mechanical strength and deterioration of thermal insulation properties when exposed to water or steam. Therefore, when using, special attention should be paid to vapor and waterproofing. Cotton wool can be presented in flexible rolls or dense slabs.

Mineral wool in slabs is often used for insulation on the basement side Source silastroy.com

On our website you can find contacts of construction companies that offer house insulation services. You can communicate directly with representatives by visiting the “Low-Rise Country” exhibition of houses.

Styrofoam- another popular insulation material. Combines the good qualities of mineral wool and mechanical strength. But in case of possible fire it releases toxic substances. Thanks to its structure, it retains heat well and ensures minimal heat loss. Long service life eliminates the need for replacement, but the ability to absorb moisture may negatively affect some characteristics.

Penoplex. A recently appeared material is based on polystyrene, into which gas is introduced. The mass is foamed and squeezed into molding containers. The gas evaporates and the output is a sheet of insulation with many pores. This is a material with unique thermal insulation characteristics, very light, and easy to install. Durability and immunity to biological organisms ensure a long service life. The material is not flammable, does not emit harmful substances and does not absorb water.

Penofol- a material for the production of which foamed polyethylene is used. An aluminum film is applied to its top layer, which reflects heat, giving the room the characteristics of a thermos. The structure of penofol does not contain pores, which prevents it from allowing air to pass through.

Penofol perfectly reflects heat Source ultra-term.ru

Expanded clay- bulk material in the form of porous balls, which is formed during the firing of clay or shale. This is a completely environmentally friendly material that has high heat savings, good fire resistance and resistance to freezing. But over time, expanded clay cakes under the influence of gravity and begins to lose quality, so this material must be changed periodically.

To decide how to insulate the floor in a wooden house from below, you need to choose the insulation that will perform the function of a heat insulator better than others in a particular situation.

Principles of installation work

Regardless of the choice of type of thermal insulation, it is necessary to follow the sequence of work performed for proper insulation. If we consider the structure from bottom to top, it will look like this:

waterproofing layer;

thermal insulation layer;

vapor barrier layer;

design for floor installation;

Compliance with this order of work guarantees the maintenance of normal temperature conditions in the room and protection of the structure from freezing and rotting.

The easiest way to insulate the bottom is through joists. They are beams measuring 5x10 cm or more, on which the floor is subsequently laid.

Scheme of floor insulation by joists Source nehomesdeaf.org

After their installation (the recommended distance between adjacent logs is 1 m), sheets of plywood, chipboards or beams are hemmed from below, on which a layer of waterproofing is laid. This is a measure to combat condensation, which can reduce the performance of the thermal insulation layer. Approximately the same technology is used when insulating the Stanislav Chalet house.

Next, the insulation is installed. Its thickness should not exceed the thickness of the log, but it is better to be a few centimeters smaller. The next stage is laying a vapor barrier, which will prevent moisture from entering the insulation from inside the room. And finally the floorboards are laid.

If it is necessary to insulate the finished floor in a wooden house from below, problems with attaching the insulation may arise, which can be solved in one of the following ways:

Glue mount. Almost any insulation can be glued to the surface of the floor (and ceiling in the basement) using special adhesives.

Fastening with slats. To support the insulation, beams, slats, etc. are nailed to the joists.

Fit to size. Tight joining of the thermal insulation material to the joists using, if necessary, spacer wedges.

When laying insulation end-to-end with joists, it is necessary to strictly maintain the size Source nehomesdeaf.org

In any case, it is necessary to lay a vapor barrier, and after insulation, hem the basement ceiling with boards. This will prevent the insulation and its particles from falling down.

On our website you can find contacts of construction companies that have a full production cycle. You can communicate directly with representatives by visiting the “Low-Rise Country” exhibition of houses.

Technology and features of floor insulation from below in a wooden house

For each type of insulation, there are some specific features of use.

Mineral wool

The sizes of rolls and slabs are usually multiples of 60 cm, which makes this distance the optimal step between the logs. Mineral wool is cut to size with a cutter and placed in the space between the joists. For a tight fit, the size should be 1–2 cm larger than the distance between the joists. Cotton wool should not be pressed down forcefully as this may affect its characteristics.

The best option would be to lay two layers of insulation. The second layer is laid so that the joint of the lower layer falls on the center of the upper piece. This method of installation will prevent cold air from entering the room.

Video description

You can see the stages of floor insulation with mineral wool along joists in the video:

When working with this insulation, it is necessary to use personal protective equipment - gloves, a respirator and goggles, since small particles can get into the mucous membrane and into the respiratory tract, which will cause irritation.

Penoplex and foam plastic

If foam plastic is used when insulating a wooden floor from below in a private house, you must take into account several rules for working with it:

Foam absorbs water, so waterproofing is required. Many experts do not take this property into account during installation, which leads to a decrease in thermal insulation characteristics.

It is recommended to cut the sheets not exactly to the size of the gap between the joists, but 1–2 cm smaller. This will allow you to fill the gaps between the sheet and the joist with polyurethane foam, which will increase the thermal insulation properties. The joints between the sheets also need to be foamed.

Sheets can be fastened using slats, spacer wedges or special adhesives.

Floor insulation with foam plastic in a wooden house Source sk-amigo.ru

The principle of working with penoplex is no different. But due to the smaller thickness of the material, it can be laid with overlapping sheet joints to avoid the formation of cold islands (similar to mineral wool).

But this method significantly increases material consumption, which means additional financial costs.

We invite you to familiarize yourself with the popular one - from the construction company "Shelf" - presented at the exhibition of houses "Low-Rise Country".

Penofol

Due to its property of not allowing moisture to pass through, penofol does not require additional installation of vapor and waterproofing. But to prevent the water vapor that forms in the room from settling on the insulation layer, an air gap is needed between it and the floor covering for air circulation.

Laying is done with the foil side up only. This will allow heat to be reflected, which will increase the temperature in the house. Penofol can be used as waterproofing when laying mineral wool or polystyrene foam. This can increase thermal insulation several times, but this method is quite expensive.

Penofol joints are sealed with adhesive tape Source build.4-u.info

The material is sold in rolls and can be easily cut into pieces of the desired size. Fastening is carried out with a construction stapler on staples or with thin slats that are nailed. To improve the result, it is recommended to lay penofol in several layers.

Conclusion

One of the main problems of wooden houses is cold floors, which interfere with a comfortable life and increase heating costs. Proper insulation will solve this problem. Regardless of the material that is chosen for insulating the finished floor in a wooden house from below, it is necessary to strictly follow the general technology and procedure for insulation, as well as take into account the features of a particular insulation. The cost of installing insulation pays off within one season.

Probably, many home owners ask themselves the following questions: Do I need to insulate the floors? Will there be any benefit from an insulated floor? How to insulate an old floor without removing it?

We can say with confidence that it is necessary to insulate the floors, since its insulation will help reduce heating costs and you will feel the benefits of this quite quickly. And the main advantage of this process is that you can insulate a wooden floor without removing it.

Floor insulation in a wooden house

Houses made of wood have remained very popular for many years, since they are relatively inexpensive, can last for decades, or even a hundred years, and they are also distinguished by their quality and comfort. If your house is built correctly and has excellent insulation, then you can forget about cold winters while living in such a building.

But, if you intend to make your home even warmer, we recommend that you start insulating the floor, since in a cold state it can reduce the temperature, which will lead to higher heating costs.

Double floor

A double floor implies a structure of two levels:

• Draft - boards attached to the beams, on which layers of thermal insulation will be laid;
• Finishing - the level that serves as the basis for laying the last layer of insulation.

Insulation options and what materials are needed.

There are many options for floor insulation that you can find on any building materials market.

We will offer you the most popular and effective insulation materials:

• Mineral wool is an excellent, soft material that is well priced and has a high thermal insulation value. Mineral wool can be classified as a safe insulation material that does not emit harmful substances and does not burn;
• Polyurethane foam - mainly used for vapor barrier;
• Expanded clay - has good thermal insulation properties, but has a fairly high cost;
• Penofol, penoplex, polystyrene foam are synthetic materials that reflect thermal radiation well and are fireproof.

Installation technology

How to insulate the floor in a wooden house without dismantling the floor? Very easy. Now we will present you with a simple option on how to properly insulate the floor in a room cheaply. So, let's begin.

Work should begin with the organization of a “thermal insulation cake”, which will have several insulating layers. To organize it you need:

• Create a structure from logs;
• Installation of facing boards on logs;
• Lay thermal insulation material between the joists so that the gaps are minimal.
• You can fill the cracks with foam;
• We lay a layer of insulation and install a vapor barrier film on top of it, which must be attached to the joists, and secure the overlaps with tape;
• We install the selected floor covering.

Insulated floors on the ground

Floor insulation on the ground will be a “pie” of many layers that will be presented:

1. Mother soil;
2. Bulk layer of soil;
3. Large crushed stone;
4. Sand or cement mortar (which will be needed to level the crushed stone);
5. Waterproofing (in the underground of the house it will prevent moisture from not only the floor, but also the house itself);
6. Insulation (polyurethane foam, mineral wool, penofol are perfect. You can also insulate the floor with expanded clay, which has good thermal insulation qualities, but also has a high cost.

A good option is penoplex. It is as easy to insulate a floor with penoplex as with other materials).

• Screed (main and main layer of the structure);
• Floor covering (“finishing” layer).

To make an effective design, you will need good materials, patience and a few helpers. If you cope with the task, then insulated floors on the ground will retain heat well in your home and will not allow the cold to penetrate.

Calculation of insulation thickness

It is worth considering the fact that each insulation must have its own thickness, which will minimize heat loss.

We will give you a list of the required thickness for various insulation materials:

• Polystyrene foam - for a wooden house - 300 mm, for a concrete house - 200 mm;
• Mineral wool - at least 300-400 mm;
• Expanded clay - 300-400 mm;
• Polyurethane foam, penoplex, penofol - at least 100 mm;

Mineral wool

As was previously written in the article, mineral wool is a popular material that is non-flammable, resistant to shrinkage, deformation, as well as fungi and mold.

Before laying mineral wool, the sheathing must already have a thermal insulation material that will protect it from moisture. If there is already a layer of waterproofing, then we install mineral wool, the sheets of which must be pressed tightly against each other to avoid cracks and gaps. After laying the mineral wool, we apply a layer of vapor barrier, then we proceed to install the floor covering.

Expanded clay

It consists of porous balls of various sizes that have good thermal insulation properties. Expanded clay is very durable, safe for use, has soundproofing qualities, and in addition, it has a long service life. It is also worth noting its resistance to various temperatures.
The process of insulation with these materials is a rather labor-intensive process. Afterwards, they are poured onto a coating with waterproofing, then compacted and filled with cement.

Styrofoam

This material is distinguished by its lightness and ease of installation, withstands moisture well, has good sound insulation, and has a long service life. But its only drawback is its low fire safety, that is, it can ignite.

Before laying the foam, there must be a layer of waterproofing on the surface where it will be installed. Afterwards, foam blocks are installed on the surface, followed by a layer of waterproofing and vapor barrier.

Penoplex

Between the joists we lay a layer of insulation, then a subfloor is made on top, on which we can then lay the finished floor. Tip - the gaps between the foam sheets can be sealed with polyurethane foam. Also, penoplex can be used to insulate not only the floor, but also the house itself.

Penofol

Laying penofol from other insulation materials, in fact, is not particularly different. As with any insulation, we prepare the surface, organize a vapor barrier and install the insulation, on which we apply a layer of penofol. When the penofol layer is installed, we begin laying the flooring.

How to insulate a concrete floor

Now we will move a little away from the article and talk a little about choosing insulation for a concrete floor.

These insulation materials are perfect for concrete floors.:

1. mineral wool;
2. Styrofoam;
3. expanded clay;
4. cork insulation, etc.

How to insulate a floor in a frame house

You can also insulate the floor with your own hands in a frame house without removing the old floor on the first floor. In fact, insulation in such a house is no different from insulating a wooden house. We nail bars along the entire length to the joists and then install boards or OSB boards on top. To make a waterproofing coating, we make a flooring from a waterproof film that will not allow moisture to pass through. Then, we proceed to the insulation layer.

What is the quality material and what is the best way to insulate the floor? In the room, you can insulate the floor with penoplex, expanded clay, mineral wool, and polyurethane foam. Is it possible to insulate the floor with penofol? Yes, you can. This material is almost no different from those presented above. It is also suitable for this process and will create a good insulating effect.

How to insulate a floor in a private house

Floor insulation in a private house is carried out according to the same principle as in a wooden one. The only difference may be the presence of a concrete floor rather than a wooden one.

How to insulate the floor in an apartment

The construction of an insulated surface of an apartment (on any floor) is also not very different from the insulation of a wooden or frame house.

As in a private house, the insulation process begins with the creation of logs, on which boards or OSB sheets are laid, after which we lay down waterproofing and the insulation layer itself. If the insulation is laid, we proceed to install the flooring.

There is another way to insulate an apartment, but it is suitable for those who live on the 1st floor.
We can say that you are very lucky to live on such a floor, since you can insulate the basement floor from the basement.

Thanks to this method, there is no need to dismantle, remove or disassemble the old floor, which makes the work much easier. So, you won’t face the tedious process of creating a new floor.

As you can see, there are many materials for insulation and creating a high-quality, full-fledged wooden floor that will delight you on cold winter evenings.

In any structure, the floor is, as a rule, the most problematic part, since the penetration of cold air masses through it is quite likely with well-insulated walls. Neither an excellent heating system nor carpeting will help solve the problem. Wooden floors are more vulnerable than others.

The most logical solution would be to properly insulate the floor using special materials, but first of all it is worth studying the structural features of the wooden flooring.

Peculiarities

Even the correct laying of floorboards without cracks and gaps fades over time due to the nature of the wood structure. The boards can dry out and heat loss is inevitable. Up to 30% of heat escapes through a floor that has not been reconstructed, so It is necessary to insulate a wooden floor, but it is worth remembering the peculiarities of this work.

A wooden floor does not consist of boards alone; it has a more complex structure. The base of the floor is logs, which are wooden blocks. Either a subfloor, consisting of untreated boards, plywood, chipboard, and is the basis for finishing coatings (laminate, parquet), or a finished floor, the basis of which consists of milled boards, is attached to them.

To make the floor comfortable, various types of insulation are used, but for normal operation, insulation alone is not enough - it is necessary to use layers of waterproofing.

Their presence is necessary, since excessive moisture in the space promotes the formation of fungus and the development of insects that destroy the wooden structure.

Insulated rooms

Most often, wooden floors are present in private buildings, and therefore it is important to know how to insulate a wooden floor in a country house. And this depends on many factors. First of all, this is the time of construction of the structure. If the house is new, then you need to wait the time necessary for the wood structure to shrink (6-7 months). If the house is old, then after dismantling the old coverings, it is necessary to pay attention to the wear of the joists, removing even partially rotten logs.

When choosing a material for thermal insulation in a village house, it is necessary to take into account the area of ​​the room and the height of the ceiling, the type of surface, the placement of the floor structure, the temperature and humidity of the room, the load, and, of course, the purpose of the house. Each of these factors directly affects the choice of material.

The ceiling height in a village house for effective and economical heating should be within 2.35-2.50 m. The height of the room after laying the insulation should not be less than 2.35 m, otherwise the space will not be very comfortable, and higher than 2.5 m to avoid increasing heating costs.

The thickness of the insulation also depends on the purpose of the house. For houses used in the summer, you can get by with insulation 5 cm thick, but for a house that will be used constantly, it is better to purchase material at least 20 cm thick.

The choice of material is directly dependent on the floor design, as this affects the installation method. There are several types of flooring:

• The flooring is laid either at a short distance from the ground or on a special bedding. Both floorings were laid without ventilation.
• The flooring is located above a basement or cellar with high humidity.
• The flooring is located on logs; below there is a pile foundation with a grating.
• Laying the flooring along the joists; below there is a ventilated basement with good air ventilation due to the presence of vents.

When choosing a material for a country house, it is necessary to take into account the characteristics of the insulation itself. In addition to thickness, characteristics such as environmental safety, fire resistance, insulation service life.

To insulate the floor in a toilet located in a private wooden building, it is worth not only taking into account the above characteristics of the insulation, but also taking care of waterproofing the underground space of this room, as well as considering a ventilation system.

You can also insulate wooden floors in your apartment. The choice of material and installation method will depend on the floor of the apartment. For the first floor, where there is soil or a basement nearby, insulation will be both from the side of the apartment and from the side of the basement, if any. To insulate the floor on the 2nd, 3rd, 4th or 5th floor, the material is laid only from the side of the apartment.

In a private house, insulating the floor on the 2nd floor makes sense only if one or the other floor is not heated, or warmer materials were used during the construction of the first floor compared to the second, resulting in a temperature difference.

Floor arrangement

Floor insulation can be done using different methods. The choice of method depends on the initial condition of the coatings, the location or absence of utility rooms.

The simplest, most reliable and most often used method is the insulation method using joists. It is suitable for insulating floors both for private wooden structures and for floors located in apartments located on the 1st floor. In this case, the principle applies that The coating is divided into fine and rough.

Insulation of a wooden floor occurs due to the sequential laying of various materials.

The rough layer consists of wooden boards joined to joists. At the bottom of the boards there are cranial bars running along each joist. The logs themselves are bars that are laid over the entire surface of the floor at a certain distance from each other, usually from 0.6 to 1 meter. They can be attached to the foundation of the building, embedded in the base of the structure, mounted on load-bearing beams or mounted on erected columns made of durable material (brick, concrete, stone).

The vapor barrier layer is laid on the subfloor and on top of the joist. It is only needed when using a certain type of insulation, and the insulation itself is placed between the joists. The gap between the insulation and the vapor barrier layer must be at least 4-5 cm. This value ensures proper ventilation of the space. If there is not enough height, counter battens are placed on the joists.

If the building is located in an area where there is high groundwater, then instead of a vapor barrier layer, you need to lay a waterproofing layer that will prevent the insulation from getting wet. In addition, some types of insulation do not require the presence of a vapor barrier layer.

Installing special vents outside the house, installed at intervals of 4-5 m, and an exhaust pipe will also help get rid of high humidity. The presence of these elements promotes good air circulation and increases the efficiency of floor insulation work.

It is possible to insulate a wooden floor without dismantling the old covering using linoleum on a jute or felt basis, but it is better to use it not as an independent type of insulation, but as an addition to a warm floor. This durable and easy-to-install coating performs the function of waterproofing.

Another method of insulation without dismantling is liquid foam, which is driven under the floor through holes with a special device. But when using this method, it is worth remembering that the space is filled unevenly, and therefore this option is not perfect.

How to choose the right insulation

All types of materials of natural or artificial origin used for insulating wooden floors, are divided into:

• fibrous;
• foamed;
• backfill;
• cellular stone.

Any insulation has both advantages and disadvantages.

The most common and affordable material is mineral wool. Insulating floors with mineral wool has many advantages. This material, in addition to its direct purpose, has very high noise insulation properties, has good fire resistance, and has low thermal conductivity. This eco-friendly material is easy to arrange and comes in different forms (rolls, mats), which is important to consider when choosing.

A type of mineral wool is insulation brand "Isover", produced by Finnish manufacturers for more than 20 years. The basis of this material is fiberglass. Izover insulation will protect a wooden structure from the development of fungi, bacteria, and the invasion of rodents and insects.

But this material has its drawbacks. First of all, they include poor moisture resistance, so it is better to use mineral wool in combination with a waterproofing layer.

Unlike mineral wool, polystyrene foam does not allow water to pass through easily. This lightweight, non-toxic material is not subject to deformation due to exposure to temperature changes. Having even a small thickness, it does not lose its good thermal insulation properties. But it also has some disadvantages. The fragility of the material comes first, so the fitting of the material must be done as accurately as possible.

Durable polystyrene foam has improved characteristics. In addition to high noise insulation and low thermal conductivity, the material is distinguished by increased strength. Installation with extruded polystyrene foam, in addition to insulation, will protect the house from rodent invasion and the development of mold fungi.

Vapor-tight roll materials isolon or penofol are small in thickness and therefore cannot provide the required degree of insulation. Most often these materials are used together with others. Penofol or isolon is used to lay the rough surface of the floor, using it as a waterproofing layer on which the insulation is laid.

Bulk materials used as insulation, such as expanded clay and sawdust, are used for structures without basements.

Insulating the floor with sawdust makes it possible to save money, since sawdust has a low cost. In addition, the shape of this insulation allows you to fill even the most inaccessible places. Very often, sawdust is combined with other substances to enhance thermal insulation, antiseptic and other properties.

The floor is insulated with expanded clay if there is close proximity to the ground. This lightweight material has a porous structure, which, in addition to thermal insulation, provides good sound insulation. It is not afraid of temperature changes, and even an inexperienced person can handle the installation.

Insulation technology

After analyzing the floor design, it is necessary to consider the best solutions for a particular room. There is a certain sequence of floor insulation, suitable both for insulation with joists and without them.

First, it is necessary to dismantle the old covering, if the insulation process takes place in an old room, and lay or replace the logs. Then proceed to laying the rough covering, on which a waterproofing or vapor barrier layer is laid. Its edges should extend 15-20 cm onto the walls, and the joints should be taped.

Probably, many home owners ask themselves the following questions: Do I need to insulate the floors? Will there be any benefit from an insulated floor? How to insulate an old floor without removing it?

We can say with confidence that it is necessary to insulate the floors, since its insulation will help reduce heating costs and you will feel the benefits of this quite quickly. And the main advantage of this process is that you can insulate a wooden floor without removing it.

Houses made of wood have remained very popular for many years, since they are relatively inexpensive, can last for decades, or even a hundred years, and they are also distinguished by their quality and comfort. If your house is built correctly and has excellent insulation, then you can forget about cold winters while living in such a building.

But, if you intend to make your home even warmer, we recommend that you start insulating the floor, since in a cold state it can reduce the temperature, which will lead to higher heating costs.

Double floor

A double floor implies a structure of two levels:

• Draft - boards attached to the beams, on which layers of thermal insulation will be laid;
• Finishing level is the level that serves as the basis for laying the last layer of insulation.

Insulation options and what materials are needed.

There are many options for floor insulation that you can find on any building materials market.

We will offer you the most popular and effective insulation materials:

• Mineral wool is an excellent, soft material that is well priced and has a high thermal insulation value. Mineral wool can be classified as a safe insulation material that does not emit harmful substances and does not burn;
• Polyurethane foam - mainly used for vapor barrier;
• Expanded clay - has good thermal insulation properties, but has a fairly high cost;
• Penofol, penoplex, polystyrene foam are synthetic materials that reflect thermal radiation well and are fireproof.

Installation technology

How to insulate the floor in a wooden house without dismantling the floor? Very easy. Now we will present you with a simple option on how to properly insulate the floor in a room cheaply. So, let's begin.

Work should begin with the organization of a “thermal insulation cake”, which will have several insulating layers. To organize it you need:

• Create a structure from logs;
• Installation of facing boards on logs;
• Lay thermal insulation material between the joists so that the gaps are minimal.
• You can fill the cracks with foam;
• We lay a layer of insulation and install a vapor barrier film on top of it, which must be attached to the joists, and secure the overlaps with tape;
• We install the selected floor covering.

The insulation of the floor on the ground will be a “pie” of many layers, which will be presented:

1. Mother soil;
2. Bulk layer of soil;
3. Large crushed stone;
4. Sand or cement mortar (which will be needed to level the crushed stone);
5. Waterproofing (in the underground of the house it will prevent moisture from not only the floor, but also the house itself);
6. Insulation (polyurethane foam, mineral wool, penofol are perfect. You can also insulate the floor with expanded clay, which has good thermal insulation qualities, but also has a high cost.

A good option is penoplex. It is as easy to insulate a floor with penoplex as with other materials).

• Screed (main and main layer of the structure);
• Floor covering (“finishing” layer).

To make an effective design, you will need good materials, patience and a few helpers. If you cope with the task, then insulated floors on the ground will retain heat well in your home and will not allow the cold to penetrate.

Calculation of insulation thickness

It is worth considering the fact that each insulation must have its own thickness, which will minimize heat loss.

Here is a list of the required thickness for various insulation materials:

• Polystyrene foam - for a wooden house - 300 mm, for a concrete house - 200 mm;
• Mineral wool - at least 300-400 mm;
• Expanded clay - 300-400 mm;
• Polyurethane foam, penoplex, penofol - at least 100 mm;

Mineral wool

As was previously written in the article, mineral wool is a popular material that is non-flammable, resistant to shrinkage, deformation, as well as fungi and mold.

Before laying mineral wool, the sheathing must already have a thermal insulation material that will protect it from moisture. If there is already a layer of waterproofing, then we install mineral wool, the sheets of which must be pressed tightly against each other to avoid cracks and gaps. After laying the mineral wool, we apply a layer of vapor barrier, then we proceed to install the floor covering.

Expanded clay

It consists of porous balls of various sizes that have good thermal insulation properties. Expanded clay is very durable, safe for use, has soundproofing qualities, and in addition, it has a long service life. It is also worth noting its resistance to various temperatures. The process of insulation with these materials is a rather labor-intensive process. Afterwards, they are poured onto a coating with waterproofing, then compacted and filled with cement.

Styrofoam

This material is distinguished by its lightness and ease of installation, withstands moisture well, has good sound insulation, and has a long service life. But its only drawback is its low fire safety, that is, it can ignite.

Before laying the foam, there must be a layer of waterproofing on the surface where it will be installed. Afterwards, foam blocks are installed on the surface, followed by a layer of waterproofing and vapor barrier.

Penoplex

Between the joists we lay a layer of insulation, then a subfloor is made on top, on which we can then lay the finished floor. Tip - the gaps between the foam sheets can be sealed with polyurethane foam. Also, penoplex can be used to insulate not only the floor, but also the house itself.

Penofol

Laying penofol from other insulation materials, in fact, is not particularly different. As with any insulation, we prepare the surface, organize a vapor barrier and install the insulation, on which we apply a layer of penofol. When the penofol layer is installed, we begin laying the flooring.

How to insulate a concrete floor

Now we will move a little away from the article and talk a little about choosing insulation for a concrete floor.

The following insulation materials are ideal for concrete floors:

1. mineral wool;
2. Styrofoam;
3. expanded clay;
4. cork insulation, etc.

How to insulate a floor in a frame house

You can also insulate the floor with your own hands in a frame house without removing the old floor on the first floor. In fact, insulation in such a house is no different from insulating a wooden house. We nail bars along the entire length to the joists and then install boards or OSB boards on top. To make a waterproofing coating, we make a flooring from a waterproof film that will not allow moisture to pass through. Then, we proceed to the insulation layer.

What is the quality material and what is the best way to insulate the floor? In the room, you can insulate the floor with penoplex, expanded clay, mineral wool, and polyurethane foam. Is it possible to insulate the floor with penofol? Yes, you can. This material is almost no different from those presented above. It is also suitable for this process and will create a good insulating effect.

How to insulate a floor in a private house

Floor insulation in a private house is carried out according to the same principle as in a wooden one. The only difference may be the presence of a concrete floor rather than a wooden one.

How to insulate the floor in an apartment

The construction of an insulated surface of an apartment (on any floor) is also not very different from the insulation of a wooden or frame house.

As in a private house, the insulation process begins with the creation of logs, on which boards or OSB sheets are laid, after which we lay down waterproofing and the insulation layer itself. If the insulation is laid, we proceed to install the flooring.

There is another way to insulate an apartment, but it is suitable for those who live on the 1st floor. We can say that you are very lucky to live on such a floor, since you can insulate the basement floor from the basement.

Thanks to this method, there is no need to dismantle, remove or disassemble the old floor, which makes the work much easier. So, you won’t face the tedious process of creating a new floor.

As you can see, there are many materials for insulation and creating a high-quality, full-fledged wooden floor that will delight you on cold winter evenings.

homeframe.ru

How to insulate a floor in an old wooden house

Hello! We got an old village house. A good-quality wooden frame, quite warm, but cold floor. We often visit it in the off-season and, no matter how hard we fire the stove, you can’t walk on the boards barefoot, your feet get cold. Tell me how I can insulate it, maybe lay something on top? After all, today there are a lot of different insulation materials; the store advised us to use foil Teplon.

There is no simple answer to your question. Or, rather, there is: most likely, you can only put a traditional rug on the floor of an old village house - and nothing more.

The fact is that in Russian huts (and German houses, by the way, too) they did not not only insulate, but also waterproof the floor, although these technologies have long been known. An unfilled underground space is best combined with stove heating, providing optimal humidity, warmth in winter (the ground does not freeze) and coolness in summer. If your house is really built in accordance with the canons of folk architecture, most likely, under thick floorboards and one or two powerful joists there is open ground, probably well-trodden clay. Yes, you yourself mention something similar. Therefore, even if your hut is built in a dry place, moisture penetrates from the “damp ground” into the underground space. It can go outside through holes in the foundation or into the room through holes in the floor, gaps between boards, and even the wood itself.

Neither waterproofing nor floor insulation was done in a traditional wooden house - only ventilation

If this is the case and there is no waterproofing, placing a thin layer of insulation (cork, foamed polyethylene of any brand, insulated linoleum) on the boards that is impenetrable to water vapor will lead to waterlogging of the floor boards and their accelerated destruction. And the low ceiling of the hut will not allow building an additional layer on top with a breathable heat insulator, a ventilated gap and a new flooring.

Our advice: put carpet on the floor, only on a woven, not solid PVC base. The presence of natural fibers in the pile will make it warmer to the touch. Remove the wool rug from the wall and place it on the floor.

If the carpets do not give the desired result, and the desire to increase the comfort in the home is great, you will have to open up the floors.

To effectively insulate the floor in an old wooden house, you will first have to disassemble it

Remove the boards, level the level with sand if necessary, and carefully spread waterproofing on the ground. It is easier, cheaper and more environmentally friendly to use a vapor barrier roofing film, carefully pressing and gluing it to the foundation and the columns on which the logs stand. You can press it with wooden planks, and glue it to uneven concrete or rubble with construction sealant or assembly adhesive. Place a layer of mineral wool, glass wool on the film or sprinkle expanded clay, perlite, agloporite, and broken foam glass.

Expanded clay is not the most effective, but inexpensive and almost non-moisture-absorbing insulation.

Thermal insulation based on organic materials (sawdust, fire concrete, ecowool) can be used if you are sure that moisture penetration has been completely eliminated. A layer of insulation of any type - the thicker, but between it and the floor boards it is necessary to leave a gap of at least 4 cm for ventilation.

Don't forget about the ventilation gap

Now you can lay the boards back, at the same time checking their condition and treating the reverse side with a protective agent - they will last longer. And if you really want to create comfort, as in the royal chambers, you can contrive to remove the sleeve from the stove, cover the insulation with windproofing to prevent dust, and, if necessary, blow warm air into the underground space with a fan. But this is a topic for another discussion.

Various options for insulating a wooden floor on the ground. Details depend on the features of the existing structure, but in all cases waterproofing is required

And, in fact, you’re supposed to walk on the floor in a hut not barefoot, but in homemade felt boots :)

mrpol.su

Independent floor insulation in a wooden house - 3 options for high-quality installation

Most modern people associate wooden houses with comfort and warmth. And in principle this is true, because wood is a living, natural, breathing material. But many of my friends methodically step on the same rake, forgetting that insulating the floor in a wooden house is no less important than insulating the walls and roof. In this material, I will first tell you how to insulate the floor in a wooden house with the three most affordable methods, and then I will personally go through the use of each type of insulation specifically for wooden buildings.

Floor insulation with cotton slabs.

Design options for floor insulation in wooden houses

Let's start with the fact that modern wooden houses can be built both on a lightweight pile or strip foundation, and on a monolithic concrete slab, respectively, and the insulation scheme in all these cases will be different.

In addition, floors in wooden houses can be insulated both from below, that is, from the basement side, and from above, from the living room side. Naturally, it’s easier to do all this during the construction of a house, but not everyone is so lucky and sometimes you have to insulate the floors in an old house, which leaves its mark on the technology.

Types of insulation.

Any major types of work in wooden houses, including insulation of walls and floors, are recommended to be carried out only after the shrinkage of the structure has been completed. And this shrinkage in a house made from dry wood lasts about a year. If freshly cut timber was used for construction, then shrinkage can last up to 5 – 7 years.

Option No. 1. Arrangement of thermal insulation in a house with a low underground

Low underground is a disease of most old houses and cottages. In my experience, almost all owners who bought or somehow received a dacha built the old fashioned way back in Soviet times are faced with a serious problem of cold and often rotten floors.

Laying Penoplex between the joists.

I will immediately hasten to reassure you, it is not necessary to break everything, if the log house itself is still intact and strong enough, then you can insulate the floor in a wooden house with your own hands in a few days, and for this you do not at all have to be a real builder. It is enough to confidently use a hacksaw, drill and hammer.

As you probably already guessed, if a private house has a low underground floor, then the floors will have to be insulated from above. And for this we need to disassemble the entire structure completely, leaving only the load-bearing logs;

If the boards and baseboards of the finished floor are in good condition, and you are not in the mood to completely change them, then when you tear down the flooring, be sure to draw yourself a sketch of the masonry and number each board. This will significantly save your energy and time when you start putting everything back in its place.

Vapor barrier over mineral wool.

• When you have free access to the joists, the first thing to do is to carefully examine the condition of the wood. Logs are a load-bearing structure, so they must be strong and reliable. If the number of rotten logs does not exceed 20-30%, then it is worth tinkering with their restoration;
• In general, according to the rules, the damaged beam must be completely removed and the same one installed in its place. But this work is not for an amateur; there are too many small, professional subtleties. When I first encountered the problem of partially replacing a load-bearing beam, I did it simply. -I cut out the rotten sector, and in its place inserted the same part of a healthy beam. I secured this sector with self-tapping screws using 4 standard 35 mm metal corners, making an overlap of about 50 cm on the old beam. But if there were no corners at hand, you can stuff a regular board about 30 mm thick on both sides;
• Now you can start arranging the subfloor. Opinions on how to do this correctly among builders vary. The classic technology looks something like this: on both sides of each joist, along the lower edge, a so-called load-bearing cranial beam is packed. I recommend taking a cross-section of at least 30x30 mm; if you take it thinner, it may not withstand the load or burst from a nail or screw;

Installation of insulation with a ventilation gap.

• The distance between the lags often fluctuates around 50 - 70 cm. In our version, the subfloor will be assembled from planks laid on the cranial beam, perpendicular to the lags. Therefore, we will first need to cut these boards and soak them well with an antiseptic, since they are located directly above the ground. An unedged board with a thickness of about 20–30 mm is well suited for these purposes. The question of what can be impregnated with can be easily resolved: the market is full of various impregnations, but I took the simplest route, dipping each board in used machine oil;
• I am often asked whether subfloor planks need to be secured to joists or to a supporting skull beam. So, as far as I have seen and done myself, these planks are simply laid on the cranial beam and that’s it. Moreover, when you measure and cut the strips, they need to be made 10 - 15 mm narrower than the gap between the joists. This tolerance is necessary to compensate for temperature and humidity deformations of wood;

Insulation scheme based on joists.

• Further, the instructions instruct to lay a layer of hydro or vapor barrier on the subfloor. The difference is this: if the soil under the house is dry and there is no heavy spring flooding in your area, then it is necessary to install a vapor barrier membrane, and so that steam freely leaves the insulation, but in no case penetrates from the soil into the insulation. Waterproofing is installed in places with high groundwater levels and on wet soils. Technical polyethylene or roofing felt is most often used as waterproofing. Any of these membranes is covered with a continuous layer of overlap, over the joists, so that the subfloor is completely covered, without any gaps or cracks. I usually fix such a fabric with a stapler;
• The insulation you choose is placed in the resulting improvised boxes. How it is possible, as well as the best way to insulate the floor in a wooden house, I will tell you in detail a little later, now we will not dwell on this;

The slab insulation is flush with the joists.

• The presence or absence of a vapor barrier on top of the insulation is determined by what materials were chosen for insulation. But in any case, there should be a small ventilation gap of 20 - 30 mm between the finished wooden flooring and the insulation layer. To do this, if possible, install the insulation slightly below the top cut of the joist. If this is not possible and the material is laid flush with the joists, then you will have to fill the wooden counter lathing perpendicular to the joists, in increments of 30 - 40 cm.

  Moreover, hydro or vapor barrier, if needed, must be under the counter lathing. Otherwise, if the finished wooden floor is not provided with proper ventilation from below, the boards will sooner or later begin to deteriorate;

• The top layer, of course, is the finishing wooden covering.

Filling the floor with ecowool.

Option No. 2. Insulate the floor above the cellar

Proper insulation of the floor below in a wooden house is, in general, carried out using a similar technology, but believe me, it is much easier to do. After all, provided that the finishing coating is in normal condition, you do not need to disassemble it. Otherwise, the technology is the same, only all actions are performed in reverse.

Subfloor laid on a cranial beam.

• According to the rules, in order to ensure that the insulation does not “stick” to the finished floor and the necessary ventilation gap remains, it is necessary to fill a small 20 - 30 mm cranial block in the upper part of the joist, at the border with the finished floor. But to be honest, I never do that. It is much easier to secure the vapor barrier membrane with a stapler, just below the finished floor. Nobody forces you to measure everything precisely, the main thing is that there is a ventilation gap;
• I also don’t see much point in installing the cranial beam and hemming the subfloor from planks on the basement ceiling using the previous technology. After laying the insulation in the niches so that it does not fall out immediately, I put a number of small nails on the joists and pull several strings from fishing line or wire;

Installation of insulation from below.

• Further from below, using the same stapler, the waterproofing sheet is attached to the joists. And on top of this canvas, to strengthen the structure, an unedged board or an ordinary slab is placed. If the basement is damp and there is often water in it, then it makes sense to sew a galvanized profile for drywall onto the ceiling instead of an unedged board. I usually attach it in increments of 20 - 30 cm, in any case, it is only needed so that the insulation does not fall out.

Floor insulation algorithm.

Using a similar technology, the second floor is being built, or more precisely, the wooden interfloor between the first and second floors along the joists. The only difference is that instead of a subfloor layer, most often lining or some sheet material, such as plywood or drywall, is sewn underneath.

Scheme of interfloor overlap.

Option No. 3. We insulate the floor of a wooden house standing on a concrete slab

The floor in a wooden house on a solid concrete base can be insulated using two technologies: installation on joists and screeding. The choice depends on what end result you want to see and how much money you are willing to spend on it all. Most often in such houses the first option is used, according to which at the finish you get a covering made of natural floorboards.

Reinforcing mesh for screed on Penoplex.

Compared to the two previous options, a concrete slab, in my opinion, is much easier to insulate. As a rule, such a base initially has an absolutely flat plane; in addition, the weight of the insulating structure itself does not matter here.

According to the first method, you need to mount a wooden sheathing on the slab. It will replace those very load-bearing logs for us.

Only first the concrete must be covered with a layer of waterproofing. In this case, technical polyethylene is quite sufficient. The thickness of the bars for the sheathing depends on the type of insulation.

For a full-fledged floorboard with a thickness of 40 mm or more, the step for laying the sheathing guides ranges from 50 to 70 cm. In the case when it is planned to cover the floor with thick plywood or OSB, the step is about 30 to 40 cm.

Insulation of a wooden floor on concrete.

The sheathing bars are attached to the concrete slab with anchors. After that, just like when installing from above, insulation is laid in the niches, and a finishing coating is sewn on top of it.

Insulating a concrete slab under a screed is made even easier. Looking a little ahead, I will say that the best insulation here is extruded polystyrene foam, better known in our country as “Penoplex”. I’ll talk about its capabilities later, but now let’s get back to the technology.

So this Penoplex is laid in a continuous layer on a flat concrete slab, attached to it and all the cracks are filled with foam. After which you can choose: either lay a metal reinforcing mesh on it and pour a screed, or arrange a flooring made of plywood, OSB or plasterboard and install a laminate on it using floating technology.

Reinforced screed for expanded clay.

If you are interested in a workpiece for a “warm floor” system, then for both the electric and water versions, a base made of extruded polystyrene foam is perfect.

In addition to extruded polystyrene foam, such a floor can be insulated with expanded clay. Of course, you will have to tinker more, but the price of such insulation will be disproportionately less.

The technology here is about the same. Initially, the concrete is covered with a waterproofing film extending onto the walls, just above the final coating. Next, a layer of expanded clay is poured and leveled horizontally.

Insulation with expanded clay.

You can put reinforcement on the expanded clay and pour cement-sand mortar, this will be a wet screed. Or lay a double layer of plywood, OSB or plasterboard, this is already called a dry floating screed.

Choosing insulation

We figured out how to make the insulation itself, now it remains to find out which insulation for the floor in a wooden house is more suitable in a given situation. To make it easier for you to understand, I have conditionally divided all the materials into 2 large areas:

1. Budget, that is, not expensive;
2. And what is now called new technology, accordingly, their cost is an order of magnitude higher.

Traditional budget insulation

• Wooden sawdust is deservedly considered the patriarch in this direction. It’s not hard to guess that the price for them is a pittance; if you try really hard, you can even get them for free. But in order for this material to be used as insulation, it must be well prepared. Otherwise, after a couple of months the sawdust will simply begin to rot.

First of all, remember, sawdust must sit in a dry place for at least a year; freshly sawn material is not suitable. And in order to prevent mice from setting up a hostel in this insulation, you need to add slaked lime there.

Since we are talking about cooking on our own, I will take the liberty of giving you the 2 most popular recipes:

Sawdust as an environmentally friendly insulation material.

1. For the floor, the bulk option is best. Here, 8 parts of dry sawdust will need to be thoroughly mixed with two parts of dry slaked lime powder; in stores, such lime is called fluff. In principle, the material is ready, now it can be poured into the space between the rough and finished floors. Just to achieve the expected effect, in the middle zone of our great homeland this layer should be no less than 150 - 200 mm. And in the northern regions it can reach up to 300 and even 400 mm;

Lime fluff.

1. It is much easier to work with slabs. But these slabs will need to be made first. The solution contains, in addition to sawdust, the same fluff, and cement is added as a binder. The standard proportion is 8/1/1 (sawdust/lime/cement). Naturally, all this is abundantly moistened and mixed well. When the solution is ready, it is poured into molds and lightly compacted. In the warm season, after about a week the slabs will dry and be ready for use. It is possible to lay the wet mixture directly into the floor, but in this case you will not be able to sew up the final covering, because you will have to wait a couple of weeks until the solution is completely dry.

Insulating board made of sawdust.

• Our second number is expanded clay. This material is used quite widely in our country. Expanded clay is granules of foamed and fired clay. The material is porous, lightweight, strong and durable. Its only drawback is its hygroscopicity; expanded clay is capable of absorbing moisture. This leads to the conclusion that expanded clay requires mandatory installation of waterproofing.

  As for the depth of insulation, it is approximately the same as that of wood sawdust. To arrange the floor in a wooden house, you should use 2 fractions of expanded clay, gravel and sand. This will make your mound more dense;

Different fractions of expanded clay.

• But perhaps the most popular floor insulation in the budget sector is polystyrene foam. The material is comfortable in almost all respects. In the underground, protected from all sides, the foam will lie indefinitely. Where sawdust or expanded clay needs to be filled with a thickness of at least 150 mm, it is enough to install foam plastic with a thickness of only 50 mm. This insulation is absolutely indifferent to moisture and waterproofing is installed here only to protect the wood itself. To install it, you only need to cut the slab exactly to the size of the niche, insert it and fill the gaps with polyurethane foam.

  In a wooden house, the weak point of the foam embedded in the floor is rodents. They really love to build their nests in it and it is almost impossible to fight this using folk methods;

Insulation of a wooden floor with polystyrene foam.

• It would be unfair to skip such a common insulation material as mineral wool. You can’t call it completely cheap, but there are several inexpensive models in the line. In particular, glass wool and soft mineral wool mats are not expensive.

But to be honest, I don’t recommend them to you, this material cakes quickly, mice love it, and when wet it completely loses its qualities. No matter how hard you try, soft cotton wool will have to be changed approximately once every 10 years.

There are also mineral wool basalt slabs, they are more expensive, but their density and quality are much higher. I recommend that if you install wool, then use only slabs about 100 m thick.

Basalt slabs of mineral wool.

Of all the above listed budget insulation options, only sawdust and foam are considered flammable. Expanded clay and cotton wool are the standard of fire safety.

New technologies

• Among newfangled insulation materials, extruded polystyrene foam is now breaking all records of popularity. It is a modern derivative of polystyrene foam, both materials are made from styrene granules, the only difference is in technology. Extruded polystyrene foam boards have a closed cell structure. As a result, the material does not let in not only moisture, but even steam. Essentially, we are dealing with a good waterproofing material. I already mentioned above that Penoplex can be laid in a screed, this is due to the fantastic strength of extruded polystyrene foam.

  If this material can be used to insulate airfields, roads and concrete foundations, then there is nothing to say about the strength of a small screed in a wooden house. In addition, mice are not particularly fond of it either;

Penoplex insulation from the basement side.

• Our next number is the so-called ecowool. It consists of approximately 80% cellulose, the remaining 20% ​​is fire retardants and antiseptics. Ecowool is not very expensive to produce, because cellulose is obtained from shredded waste paper. I think the high price here is more due to the fact that the material is new. There are two ways to install such insulation. If you are interested in self-installation, then the cotton wool is simply poured into the floor cells and fluffed with a construction mixer.

  But it is better to order machine blowing. In this case, cotton wool is blown onto any surface, including vertical and overhanging surfaces, using a compressor. Ecowool has one advantage over other modern insulation materials: if you are confident in the high-quality installation of the rough and finished floor, then in old houses you can simply make a hole and blow out the entire subfloor with ecowool through it;

Fluffing ecowool.

• Polyurethane foam is quite expensive. It is impossible to apply this material to any surface with your own hands; it requires professional equipment and specialists with appropriate qualifications. In terms of its characteristics, polyurethane foam is close to extruded polystyrene foam, but it will not withstand screed. The best option here is to foam the floor from below in a wet basement. The fact is that the foam will hermetically seal the tree from below, and the warranty period for such insulation starts at 30 years;

Filling with polyurethane foam.

• Penoizol will cost less than polyurethane foam. But it also requires specialists to apply it. Personally, in the case of floor insulation in a wooden house, I don’t see much point in paying for such material. After all, in essence, penoizol is the same polystyrene foam, only in liquid form. Of all the advantages, the only advantages are quick installation and a sealed continuous coating;

Filling with penoizol.

• Lastly, I wanted to talk about the so-called isolon. To explain in a nutshell, isolon is polyethylene foam. It can be covered on one or both sides with foil, and also come without foil coating. But it is difficult to call it an independent insulation for the floor in a wooden house; most models have a thickness of up to 10 mm. With such a thickness, isolon can only be used as an auxiliary coating. In particular, it is used when installing electric heated floors. Or sometimes they additionally cover the cotton wool. Foil-coated isolon is a good waterproofing material and personally, I often install it instead of the top insulating layer under the final coating.

Canvas isolon.

Conclusion

Insulating the floor in a wooden house with your own hands is not as difficult as it might seem at first glance. If you choose the right insulation and prepare well, then the floors in a medium-sized house can be installed in a maximum of a week. In the photos and videos in this article I have included additional information on the topic of insulation. If you have any questions, write them in the comments, I will try to help.

Warm floor in a wooden house.

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obustroeno.com

How important is floor insulation in a wooden home for you?

How to insulate the floor in a wooden house without dismantling the floor?

For comfort and convenience in a personal home, it is not enough to have walls and a roof.

It is extremely important that your home is always cozy in winter and comfortable in summer. Therefore, it is extremely important how carefully you treat the insulation of the floor in a wooden house. This circumstance helps to create not only a generally favorable microclimate for your home in the cold winter, but you will also feel how significantly the heating costs of your mansion have dropped. Since up to one third of the heat you create can escape directly through an uninsulated floor.

High-quality thermal insulation of the floor makes it possible to maintain a known desired temperature in the building as a whole, and prevents excessive moisture, mold, and condensation from escaping into the rooms. The great popularity of this method of constructing wooden buildings has posed an urgent problem: how to insulate the floor in a wooden house without dismantling the floor and what technologies and, of course, materials can be assembled to achieve the desired goal?

And so we begin the selection of materials for insulation.

The essential quality of insulation of floor structures is directly related to the insulation of housing. And it all depends on the right choice of materials. Progressive industry in all countries offers a fairly diverse selection of all types of various thermal insulation.

Fiberglass, stone or mineral wool. All these materials differ in the highest level of technological thermal insulation and greater noise absorption. If single-layer insulation is performed, mats made from these bulk materials or bulk insulation rolled into rolls are used. Options for thermal insulation in mats, the so-called piece version, are also considered to be the most resilient, and they are also the most durable.

How to cheaply insulate a wooden floor in a house?

Penoplex, as well as expanded polystyrene, are thermal insulation materials that can be used to insulate almost all systems. Most of them differ, first of all, in their low price. These materials are relatively durable, and at the same time, for their level, they provide excellent thermal insulation of structures.

Thermal insulation is made from such materials using spraying or laying. This method is considered more economical, successful and technologically advanced. More such insulation is performed in new homes.

Mineral wool;

• Thermal conductivity is low;
• The material is loose and free-flowing, therefore not dense;
• Great water repellency;
• Long-term resistance to decomposition;
• Improved price/quality ratio;
• Purity of the material according to GOST for ecology;
• Chem. resistance to the surrounding environment;
• Resistance to various microorganisms;
• Elementary installation and processing;
• Natural ecological impeccability.

For the sake of an environmentally friendly log building, as a rule, only environmentally friendly materials are used. An important issue in this selection of the basis for insulation is not to spoil in any way this impeccable aura that the log walls and floor are ready to form. For this reason, the selection of thermal insulation is also forced to comply with environmental conditions.

The use of fiberglass or rottisite wool absolutely meets the conditions of environmental friendliness. You just need to take into account one fact, that in this situation, harmless resins are not used in these materials for the purpose of connecting fibers. The presence of phenol-formaldehyde resin in mineral wool insulation can be seen due to the brownish tint of the material used. These additives make fiberglass yellowish.

The safety of using polystyrene foam for flooring is directly dependent on the density properties of the material used. It is important that the floor is thoroughly dried so that the insulation materials do not contain compounds that quickly evaporate, which are ready to poison the human body when the temperature increases. For example, styrene can also provoke diseases such as toxic hepatitis, leukemia, etc. in humans.

Foam insulation technology

When selecting and using materials for floor insulation, it is important to carefully examine their composition and become familiar with the certificates of their environmental protection. Most of the current thermal insulation materials used are made in compliance with all international environmental conditions. In these materials used, the connecting link is considered to be a combination of acrylic and latex, which are safe for health.

Thermal insulation service life;

It is currently quite difficult to establish to what extent the thermal insulation used to insulate the floor will be reliable. When selecting types of insulation, many of their properties should be taken into account.

For example, many used materials, after pressure on them with a certain load, no longer restore their original size. In this case, there is one caveat: many of their fibers simply break. For this reason, such materials used have weak contact with beams and floor joists. Such systems create conditions for the emergence of cold bridges. In addition, in areas of non-compact fit of thermal insulation, condensation is likely to occur.

In order to select high-quality insulation, press on a small piece of it (for example, you can put your foot on it). If after this pressure it acquires its own initial configuration, it can be purchased. If the material is kept thin, it will not be suitable for you.

How to increase the thermal insulation properties of a floor?

How to insulate the floor in a wooden house without disassembling it?

Naturally, when insulating, you can’t limit yourself to thermal insulation mats made of moisture-proof plywood. For example, very often specialized insulated types of finishing materials are used, such as heat-insulating thick linoleum, dual-layer carpet flooring.

Often, fiberboards or fiberboard tiles or other usable materials are laid directly under finished floor coverings, for example, under parquet.

Double floor

An additional type of insulation of a log building, especially its 1st floor, is considered to be additional insulation of the base of the house. In addition, it is necessary to thoroughly check all the ventilation openings in the basement rooms without exception.

So the question arises, how to insulate floors in a wooden house? The type of insulation in the double floor version is used quite often. In this case, the initial layer will be a preliminary flooring, for example, from rough boards firmly fixed to the beams. The tight fit of the rough boards to each other is very important, since there should be no gaps left. On top of them, an ordinary finishing flooring is applied, and then (if necessary) a finishing coating with various decorating materials.

Instead of a dirty floor, a variety of flooring is often used. Similar floorings often use embossed or smoothed floor coverings that have a high degree of thermal insulation. Such materials used do not concentrate debris in any way, and from their surface you can simply sweep away all kinds of debris and dust, or pick them up with a vacuum cleaner.

Such and similar coverings are simply glued to the floor with bustilate glue, spreading it in the form of strips on the used material. The joints are thoroughly glued.

Insulation with fiberboard support

The use of wood-fiber insulation for floor insulation may be quite common. Fiberboards can be laid both under the finishing coating and on the main floor boards, for example, under parquet, linoleum, carpet, laminate or other used materials.

The slabs are placed in the floor one at a time, following the accuracy and uniformity of the joints, avoiding all kinds of cracks. For the purpose of such work, various types of slabs can be used. More famous are PT-STO and M-20. These slabs prevent frost from penetrating into the home from under the floor. In addition, the use of fiberboard insulation is in addition to the use of rottisite wool or other types of thermal insulation.

The concept of "hot floors"

One of the most well-known technologies is the concept of “hot floors”. In particular, this concept is often applicable when pouring a floor at the base of a cement screed, which requires heating. This concept is used in combination with the use of classical materials used for the purpose of insulation.

This concept makes it possible to achieve measured heating of the floor plane. A more comfortable cryo temperature is formed in absolutely the entire room, and not just under the ceiling. The moisture in the building is significantly reduced. The use of heated floors in the 1st floors of a wooden building is especially important.

The concept of a water “hot floor”

A similar concept is carried out in the following order:

1. The base of the floor (cement screed) is poured or concrete slabs are laid.
2. One or another insulation is placed, its layer can have from 2 to 10 cm.
3. A reinforcement grid is installed.
4. The pipeline concept is being installed. It is secured with plastic clamps to a grid of reinforcement.
5. The floor is filled with optimal materials (the concept of poured floors).
6. A substrate is used if necessary.
7. Then the finishing floors, the so-called floor coverings, are placed.

Electric “hot floors” in a wooden house

It is much easier to implement electric heated floors. It is possible to use cable systems or film heating components. In this case, the wire can be stretched in an iron mesh attached to the joists.

If film infrared electrical materials are used, they have every chance of being placed directly into the screed, protected by a gasket made of heat-insulating materials.

When performing thermal insulation using a wooden floor or parquet, maintain at least 1 centimeter of distance between the wall and the floor. A tree is always capable of changing its own volumes and shapes, depending on moisture and temperature.

It is more correct to carry out thermal insulation activities even during the construction of the building, taking it into account during design.

The pair concept of gender is considered predominant. This concept guarantees the necessary ventilation and makes it possible to eliminate the occurrence of mold and mildew.

Additional thermal insulation should be carried out with simple materials, so as not to form a significant load on the foundation of the house.

Materials for thermal insulation purposes must be environmentally friendly and non-flammable.

Tips for insulation

When performing thermal insulation using a wooden floor or parquet, leave at least a 1-centimeter gap between the wall and the floor. Since wood is capable of changing its volume and shape, depending on moisture and temperature.

It is more correct to carry out thermal insulation activities even during the construction of the building, taking it into account during design.

The dual concept of gender is considered predominant. This concept guarantees the necessary ventilation and makes it possible to eliminate the occurrence of mold and mildew.

Additional thermal insulation should be carried out using simple and time-tested materials, so as not to create a significant load on the foundation of the house.

Materials for thermal insulation must be environmentally friendly and non-flammable.

What does the European market of thermal insulation materials offer today?

The variety of thermal insulation materials used in today's building market often leads consumers to a hopeless situation. In order to correctly select the material used, you should understand its characteristic features and abilities.

Material; Insulate.

This is a thermal insulation source in rolls made in China. The property of the material is quite high, at a low cost. The insulation is suitable for thermal insulation of various systems.

Material; Ursa

URSA Insulation material

One of the most famous thermal insulation materials. This source is more used for horizontal planes. Having at its disposal a low cost, good thermal insulation and sound insulation properties.

Material; Thermolife

Used for light loads on thermal insulation. It is more used for the purpose of insulating roof walls, or ceilings, or interfloor spaces. Can be used on horizontal, vertical and oblique surfaces.

Similar thermal insulation materials are no less common, such as: Teplex, Isovent, Isolite, Rockwool, Penoplex and numerous other types of thermal insulation. It is important to make the right selection in the interests of your own wooden building.

Kirill Sysoev

Calloused hands never get bored!

Content

One of the problems of living in a private house made of wood is a cold floor. The fact is that low-temperature air currents descend downwards, and coolness also emanates from the ground. Insulating the floor covering, which is done using a variety of materials, will help make your home cozy, warm and comfortable, and protect it from freezing.

How to insulate the floor in a wooden house from below

It is known that home is the fortress of every person, so it should always feel cozy and warm. One way to transform a living space is to insulate the floor in a wooden house from below. To get a positive result, you should carefully familiarize yourself with the range of insulation products, find out the features, choose the best option and complete the installation.

Installation of the thermal insulation layer has several specific nuances:

1. It is necessary to have two-layer insulation of the floor in a wooden house from below. It is necessary to reduce the loss of heat escaping through the rough bottom. As a rule, the floor is made of ordinary boards that are adjusted to each other. The surface will suffer from strong exposure to humidity and low temperature from the ground, so building materials must be treated with special means in advance.
2. Given the fact that wood absorbs liquid well, waterproofing will be required. Before you begin to insulate a wooden floor, it is recommended to lay one-sided fiber.
3. Products for floor insulation in a wooden house from below should not change their characteristics when in contact with wood.

Which insulation is better for the floor in a wooden house

Very often, consumers think about what material is more profitable to use to insulate a cold floor in a wooden house from below. The choice of insulation depends on the following factors: room size, type of surface, type of wood, climate, price. It’s worth saying right away that expensive finishing materials are not always the best in quality and may simply not be suitable for a particular building. To make the right choice, it is recommended to find out what insulating floor materials are, study their characteristics and advantages.

Materials for thermal insulation

The range of modern thermal insulation is very wide. Products may differ in dimensions, characteristics, installation technologies, and so on. Insulation of floors in a wooden house is often carried out with the following building materials: mineral wool, expanded clay, penofol, polystyrene foam (expanded polystyrene), polyurethane foam, sawdust, penoplex. The choice of thermal insulation layer depends on the individual preferences of the owner of the building and the characteristics of the floor covering. How to insulate the floor in a wooden house during construction or renovation of a residential premises?

Mineral wool

Cold wood flooring is often insulated with mineral wool. This type of sealant is available as elastic mats or durable panels. The material must be laid in a single layer. The main advantages of mineral wool:

• high sound and heat insulation;
• long period of practical use;
• resistance to fire and high humidity;
• affordable price;
• environmental friendliness;
• This insulation is resistant to damage: mechanical and chemical influences.

Polyurethane foam

The ideal sealant for wooden floors, the pores of which are closed with air and gas for insulation, is polyurethane foam. This cellular material has a small mass, but retains heat well. This insulation is most resistant to the formation of fungus and mold, is not afraid of rotting, and is not susceptible to acids. Polyurethane foam is applied using a special technique and has good adhesion (adhesion to the surface). Thanks to the use of this type of thermal insulation, it is possible to insulate a floor of any shape without creating joints.

Styrofoam

Thermal insulation of floors using polystyrene foam (expanded polystyrene) has many advantages. The structure of the material ensures a low level of vapor permeability and thermal conductivity, fire resistance, reliability, and resistance to chemical and biological factors. Expanded polystyrene has a long service life and retains its characteristics for a long time. The main disadvantage is that the seal absorbs a certain amount of liquid, which may affect some properties.

Penoplex

Insulation of a wooden floor is also done with penoplex - a very light polymer homogeneous material that does not put any load on the base of the building. It is produced by extrusion - forcing molten raw materials through the molding cavity of an extruder (special equipment). Penoplex is very strong, resistant to low temperatures, durable, and has minimal moisture absorption and combustion.

Expanded clay

Thermal insulation of a wooden floor can be done using expanded clay - a loose, porous product that consists of small round balls. Insulation is produced by burning slate or clay in a special oven. Expanded clay for preserving the heat of wood floors is a durable and environmentally friendly material. It has high levels of sound insulation, fire resistance, and frost resistance. There is one significant drawback: after a certain period of time, expanded clay becomes compacted under the weight of its own weight and loses its thermal insulation qualities.

Penofol

Roll-type insulation for wooden floors, which is made from foamed polyethylene, which is covered with aluminum foil on top - this is penofol. This seal is not very thick (3-10 mm), but it conducts heat well and does not require additional vapor barrier. Due to its composition, penofol has several disadvantages: foil can be “eaten” by rust, and polyethylene loses strength over time.

Installation technology

A reliable and effective option for laying insulation for wooden flooring underneath is installation along joists - transverse boards (beams) on which the floor covering is located. ­

1. First, logs are attached to the brick foundation, the distance between which should be 1-1.2 meters (as in the photo).
2. Chipboard or thick plywood is mounted on the beams below using self-tapping screws. This is necessary for laying thermal insulation.
3. The insulating material is laid on the surface between the joists. The thickness of this layer of thermal insulation can be varied, so you need to be guided by the dimensions of the transverse boards (joists).
4. Waterproofing (for example, polyethylene film) is laid on top of the seal. This type of material is not always used, because some types of insulation are themselves resistant to moisture.
5. The final stage of installation is the installation of elements of old or new wooden flooring on the ground floor.