What varnish can be applied to epoxy coating. Bathroom enamel - choice and coating. Epoxy: description of the product

30.10.2019

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Even if you wash and thoroughly dry the bathtub after each use, the enamel of this sanitary fixture will not remain pristine white and shiny as when purchased. Over time, the inner surface of the bowl turns yellow and becomes covered small cracks, chipped due to constant contact with water and mechanical stress.

Only re-enamelling the bathtub with your own hands can restore the whiteness and gloss. High-quality bathroom enamel applied to a prepared surface can extend the service life of the product by 1.5-5 times at a relatively low cost. In this article we will tell you what types of coating compositions are used for this and how they differ.

Characteristics

During the production process, each washing container undergoes an enameling procedure, that is, it is covered with a layer of durable paint that gives the surface color, glossy shine and smoothness. IN modern models Bathroom enamel in powder form is applied electrostatically and then “baked” at high temperature, so the coating is durable and strong. You can paint the bowl at home with acrylic or epoxy enamel using a roller, brush or pouring method.

These compounds are used because they have the following qualities:

Resistant to water. The top layer of paint is in constant contact with water, so it should not deteriorate or crack under its influence.
Resistant to temperature changes. Used for washing and cleaning hot water, so bathroom enamel must withstand high temperature, as well as its changes, without deforming.
Resistant to strong detergents. To maintain the cleanliness of the product, aggressive household chemicals, the impact of which the paint used to paint the bathtub must withstand.
Resistant to mechanical stress and shock. When using a bathtub, falling objects and high loads cannot be avoided, so the paint used for enameling must provide a durable coating.

Please note that the enamel coating of a bathtub at home is very different from the factory one, so it is more fragile. The service life of an epoxy paint composition is 5-7 years, acrylic - 8-15 years, and enamel in cans used for local repair of cracks - only 1-2 years.

Classification

To paint the bath yourself to restore the whiteness, shine and smoothness of the product, use different kinds specialized enamel, which is developed taking into account the conditions of use. The quality of re-enamelling of plumbing fixtures depends on 3 factors: the correct choice of paint composition, the quality of the enamel and the correct preparation of the surface for application.

Bath enamels differ according to the following criteria:

Important! To facilitate the application of enamel, it is necessary to properly prepare the surface of the bathtub for painting. Before painting a product at home, it must be cleaned of dirt, old enamel removed, degreased and thoroughly dried. The quality and durability of the effect depends on compliance with enameling technology.

Epoxy compounds

Bathroom enamel based on epoxy resins - effective and accessible remedy to restore the whiteness, shine and smoothness of the product. It is a two or three-component mixture consisting of a base, a hardener and a plasticizer, with a thick, viscous consistency. The enamel is applied using a natural brush or roller in several layers. This type includes the popular brands Epoksin-51, Epoksin-51S and Reaflex-50 from the famous Finnish company Tikkurila.

The advantages of epoxy enamel are:

Low price. Compared to other bathtub refinishing products, epoxy enamel is the least expensive.
Ease of application. Thick, viscous epoxy enamel is easily applied to the surface of the bathtub, evenly filling pores, cracks or small chips.
Long service life. With intensive use, the epoxy coating lasts 5-7 years, which adds 1.5 times more “life” to the bathtub.
Ease of use. According to reviews professional craftsmen Epoxy enamel is better suited for independent use, as it is applied easily and takes a long time to set.
Strength. Epoxy coating withstands contact with water, impacts, and mechanical stress well, maintaining the integrity of the layer.

Note! Before you paint plumbing fixture epoxy enamel, keep in mind that the drying time of this composition is 5-7 days. For the first 2-3 days after application, you should not even enter the room so that dust does not settle on the bathtub, and after that you should limit the use of water. There is a simple rule: the more time it takes for the enamel to dry, the stronger and more stable the coating.

Acrylic compounds

Acrylic-based enamel – more modern and effective remedy for coloring plumbing equipment. It creates a stable, durable, smooth and glossy coating 6 mm thick. Acrylic enamel is a two-component mixture of base and hardener. Compared to epoxy enamel, liquid acrylic is more fluid and flexible. Apply this coloring composition pouring method or brush. The most popular acrylic compound used for renovation of bathtubs is Stakryl.

Acrylic-based enamels have the following advantages:

Liquid acrylic for painting bathtubs is more demanding in terms of surface preparation. In order for the coating to be smooth and durable, it is necessary to clean the product, remove upper layer old enamel sandpaper or grinder with grinding disc, repair chips and cracks with putty, degrease, and then dry thoroughly construction hairdryer. Only if these conditions are met will the result be lasting and of high quality.

Video instruction

No matter how well you take care of your bathroom, there comes a time when it needs replacing. Exists alternative solution– restoration. The main assistant in this case is bath enamel in cans, thanks to which you can easily save a lot of money. Thanks to the use of enamel, there will be no need to dismantle and dispose of the old cast iron bath, as well as change water supply and sewer pipes. Most importantly, you don't have to buy new bath.

What bath enamels are there?

Manufacturers offer different coating for the restoration of bathtubs. What requirements must be presented to the paint in order to choose the best option:

Safety - bath enamel should not contain impurities that can be harmful to health;
Thermal conductivity - the lower this indicator, the slower the water will cool, respectively, the longer and more comfortable it will be to splash around in the new bathtub;
Durability - if your task is not just to bring shine, but to solve the problem with bathroom enamel for a long time, then the chosen enamel should be resistant to mechanical and chemical influences.

What enamels for bathroom renovations does the manufacturer offer, and which one is better:

epoxy - epoxy paint has been used to restore bathtubs for more than two decades. It is a mixture of epoxy resin, fillers and pigments. Refers to two-component enamels that require dilution with a hardener before use;
acrylic - latex paint, which is based on acrylic, has been conquering consumers for just over ten years. In terms of durability, it is not inferior to epoxy enamels. It is a representative of two-component paints. As a rule, acrylic uses a pouring technique to cover the bathtub;
alkyd - these water-dispersed compositions do not contain solvents, so they are practically odorless. If the application technology is strictly followed, bath enamel will last about seven years.

Bath enamel in cans, overview of models and their features

Properly selected bath enamel in cans will last a long time, so you need to understand which type is best to choose. We reveal the pros and cons of various options.

How to paint a bathtub with enamel. Types, epoxy and acrylic compounds. Dismantling the trim and preparing the surface and painting

How to properly paint a bathtub with enamel? What kind of paints for restoring an old cast iron bathtub can be found on sale? How to prepare a surface for painting?

Let's try to find the answers.

The surface of the bathtub before and after restoration.

Why is this necessary?

When is painting a bathroom with enamel yourself preferable to replacing it?

There are two main motives.

The first and main reason to spend time and effort on restoring the old coating is, of course, saving. New cast iron bath costs much more than any type of enamel: if a can of two-component Tikkuril Reaflex enamel will cost the buyer 1000-1300 rubles, then the price of a full-size bathtub is at least 10,000.
Dismantling and installation of plumbing equipment is often associated with the need to make serious repairs in the bathroom. At a minimum, restore the tiles laid to the edge of the bathtub and reseal the connection to the wall.

However: the adjacency will create problems in any case.

The new coating should ideally start from under the tile or profile that prevents water from flowing in.

If at least one of the driving motives is relevant to you, let's move on.

Types of enamels

What kind of paint can be used to restore bathtub enamel?

Epoxy

The restoration kit consists of at least two components - the enamel itself, which is a suspension of pigment in epoxy resin with a solvent, and a hardener. After drying, the coating is hard, wear-resistant and resistant to minor scratches. main feature- small thickness: chips will have to be smoothed out first using putty.

Epoxy enamel Tikkurila Reaflex.

For an inexperienced restorer, applying this type of coating can be a real pain. Epoxy enamel is usually applied in four layers; The main problem is to distribute it evenly, without drips, over the surface with a brush.

This type of enamel also requires the use of a hardener: here too, epoxy resin is one of the components. The coating is much more viscous; it is applied not with a brush, but by pouring: the prepared surface is poured as evenly as possible, after which the inevitable sagging is smoothed out with a rubber spatula.

Liquid acrylic can fill chips and other irregularities without prior puttying. The resulting surface will be completely identical in strength, wear resistance and thermal conductivity. acrylic bath; however, thanks large mass Cast iron, the collected water will cool much longer.

Preparation

Instructions for preparing for painting are identical for both types of finishing enamels.

Dismantling the harness

The trim with overhead chrome grilles can be removed using a regular screwdriver: a couple of screws are unscrewed, after which plastic parts turn out to be unsecured.

The all-plastic trims are removed using pliers inserted into the grille. The outlet and overflow are unscrewed counterclockwise.

The biggest problems are caused by dismantling old bathtubs in Stalinist and early Khrushchev-era buildings, equipped with cast iron frames and steel pipes.

How to do this job?

First, you should try to open the release using the same pliers, held with a gas wrench as a lever. Unlike the plastic release, much greater force is allowed here.
Plan B: massive cast iron tee under the outlet it warms up to a cherry glow gas burner or a blowtorch.

Attention: it is the tee that needs to be heated.

Overheating the bath will lead to the appearance of new enamel chips, and cast iron itself is quite sensitive to uneven heating.

After warming up, while the tee is hot, you can try to move the outlet again. We have physics on our side: the thermal expansion of cast iron will weaken its adhesion to the thread.

If this recipe does not help, you can try to soak the stuck threads with VD-40 automotive oil or kerosene. Since the gasket under the outlet will burn out when heated, adding liquid will not be difficult.
Finally, if all else fails, the bathtub is still dismantled, placed vertically, after which the unfortunate tee is cut off with a grinder or hand hacksaw on metal.

Surface preparation

For reliable adhesion of the enamel, the surface to be painted must be rough.

How to achieve this?

Grinding - manual or using power tools.

Sanding old enamel.

By etching. Oxalum applied to the enamel or hydrochloric acid within a couple of hours the coating will corrode where it retains its gloss. The drying acid will have to be moistened or reapplied at intervals of 20-30 minutes.

By the way: the use of acidic cleaning products is the main reason that bathtubs have to be restored.

The next stage is degreasing. After the dust from grinding or acid residues have been washed away, the surface is washed with a soda solution (the remains of which, of course, are then thoroughly washed off) or wiped with gasoline, acetone or another solvent.

Finally, final stage preparation - drying. To do this, use a fan or uniform heating with a hair dryer. Of course, you can heat the bath only after the remaining solvent has completely evaporated.

Epoxy enamel

Epoxy enamel for painting a bathtub is mixed with a hardener in portions and applied in four layers at intervals of about an hour. The drying period for the last layer is a week. As already mentioned, the main problem is to ensure uniform coloring: the enamel is rubbed over the surface in the thinnest possible layer; drips are immediately picked up.

Painting with epoxy enamel.

How to paint a bathtub with enamel based on acrylic resins?

The outlet is plugged with a sheet of cardboard or thick paper rolled into a tube.
The paint mixed with the hardener is evenly spread over the entire surface of the bathtub being finished. It is better to use a small glass rather than a factory container.
On areas left uncoated, acrylic is spread with a rubber spatula. You should not try to grind the enamel: it will spread in an even layer on its own.
When there are no unpainted areas left, the release is released. Remains of enamel flows into the placed dishes.

Filling the surface with liquid acrylic.

Useful little things

As part of the article, we will get acquainted with two more unusual coatings that can be useful when renovating a bathroom.

Cold galvanizing paints are used as a means of long-term protection of steel water pipes from corrosion. For example, Zinga electrically conductive paint, after the binder has dried, forms a thin zinc coating on the surface of the pipe that can protect it even with constant contact with water.

For guard gas pipes and valves from possible overheating In case of fire, special fire-resistant enamels are used. Thus, fire-retardant paints for metal Polistil are able to withstand contact with open fire for 45-60 minutes: when heated to critical temperature they foam and reliably insulate the base.

The photo shows a sample of the foam coating.

How to paint a bathtub with enamel: video instructions on how to paint it yourself and photos

Bathroom enamel - choice and coating

Even if you wash and thoroughly dry the bathtub after each use, the enamel of this sanitary fixture will not remain pristine white and shiny as when purchased. Over time, the inner surface of the bowl turns yellow and becomes covered with small cracks and chips due to constant contact with water and mechanical stress.

Characteristics

During the production process, each washing container undergoes an enameling procedure, that is, it is covered with a layer of resistant paint, giving the surface color, glossy shine and smoothness. In modern models, bathroom enamel in powder form is applied electrostatically and then “baked” at high temperature, so the coating is durable and strong. You can paint the bowl at home with acrylic or epoxy enamel using a roller, brush or pouring method.

These compounds are used because they have the following qualities:

Resistant to water. The top layer of paint is in constant contact with water, so it should not deteriorate or crack under its influence.
Resistant to temperature changes. Hot water is used for washing and washing, so bathroom enamel must withstand high temperatures, as well as temperature changes, without deforming.
Resistant to strong detergents. To maintain the cleanliness of the product, aggressive household chemicals are used, the effects of which the paint used to paint the bathtub must withstand.
Resistant to mechanical stress and shock. When using a bathtub, falling objects and high loads cannot be avoided, so the paint used for enameling must provide a durable coating.

Please note that the enamel coating of a bathtub at home is very different from the factory one, so it is more fragile. The service life of an epoxy paint composition is 5-7 years, acrylic - 8-15 years, and enamel in cans used for local repair of cracks - only 1-2 years.

Classification

To paint a bathtub yourself to restore the whiteness, shine and smoothness of the product, various types of specialized enamel are used, which are developed taking into account the conditions of use. The quality of re-enamelling of plumbing fixtures depends on 3 factors: the correct choice of paint composition, the quality of the enamel and the correct preparation of the surface for application.

Bath enamels differ according to the following criteria:

Compound. To paint the bowl with your own hands, use enamels based on epoxy resins or acrylic. Acrylic products are more expensive, but they have a longer service life and are odorless.
Application. You can paint the bathtub using a brush with natural bristles, a soft roller or the pouring method. It is convenient to repair small chips and cracks with epoxy paint in cans.

Important! To facilitate the application of enamel, it is necessary to properly prepare the surface of the bathtub for painting. Before painting a product at home, it must be cleaned of dirt, old enamel removed, degreased and thoroughly dried. The quality and durability of the effect depends on compliance with enameling technology.

Epoxy compounds

Bathroom enamel based on epoxy resins is an effective and affordable means of restoring the whiteness, shine and smoothness of a product. It is a two or three-component mixture consisting of a base, a hardener and a plasticizer, with a thick, viscous consistency. The enamel is applied using a natural brush or roller in several layers. This type includes the popular brands Epoksin-51, Epoksin-51S and Reaflex-50 from the famous Finnish company Tikkurila.

The advantages of epoxy enamel are:

Low price. Compared to other bathtub refinishing products, epoxy enamel is the least expensive.
Ease of application. Thick, viscous epoxy enamel is easily applied to the surface of the bathtub, evenly filling pores, cracks or small chips.
Long service life. With intensive use, the epoxy coating lasts 5-7 years, which adds 1.5 times more “life” to the bathtub.
Ease of use. According to reviews from professional craftsmen, epoxy enamel is better suited for independent use, as it is applied easily and takes a long time to set.
Strength. Epoxy coating withstands contact with water, impacts, and mechanical stress well, maintaining the integrity of the layer.

Note! Before painting a plumbing fixture with epoxy enamel, keep in mind that the drying time of this composition is 5-7 days. For the first 2-3 days after application, you should not even enter the room so that dust does not settle on the bathtub, and after that you should limit the use of water. There is a simple rule: the more time it takes for the enamel to dry, the stronger and more stable the coating.

Acrylic compounds

Acrylic-based enamel is a more modern and effective means for painting plumbing equipment. It creates a stable, durable, smooth and glossy coating 6 mm thick. Acrylic enamel is a two-component mixture of base and hardener. Compared to epoxy enamel, liquid acrylic is more fluid and flexible. This coloring composition is applied by pouring or brushing.. The most popular acrylic compound used for renovation of bathtubs is Stakryl.

Acrylic-based enamels have the following advantages:

Persistence. Effect of application liquid acrylic on inner surface The bowl lasts 8-15 years, which is a fairly long period for dyes.
"Self-cleaning effect." Acrylic coating has a smooth, non-porous surface that repels dirt.

Liquid acrylic for painting bathtubs is more demanding in terms of surface preparation. To make the coating smooth and durable, you need to clean the product, remove the top layer of old enamel with sandpaper or a grinder with a sanding disc, repair chips and cracks with putty, degrease, and then dry thoroughly with a hair dryer. Only if these conditions are met will the result be lasting and of high quality.

Bathroom enamel

How to choose the right bathroom enamel and enameling technology? Characteristics, classification, epoxy and acrylic compositions enamels, advantages and disadvantages.

Bath enamel or the most budget-friendly way to restore the surface of a bathtub

No matter how hard a person tries, all household items age over time and lose their performance. The bath is no exception. Proper care, of course, will extend the life of the bath, but still, during operation, the coating may change color, cracks and chips may appear on it. What to do if your financial situation does not allow you to purchase a new bathtub or you live in a rented apartment and buy new plumbing is not included in your plans. There is a solution - to carry out restoration work!

Varieties

For restoration work Bathtubs can use epoxy or acrylic enamel.

Epoxy

Epoxy paint is characterized by for a long time operation of the bathtub, if all recommendations were taken into account when painting. This type of paint is quite popular among consumers, as it has been on the market for more than 20 years.

Acrylic enamel is more modern means, after all, it has been on sale for 10 years. In terms of quality characteristics, it is superior to epoxy paint.

Acrylic is very easy to apply, which cannot be said about the process of preparing a solution for restoration. To mix all the components of this product, you will have to make an effort.

The cost of acrylic is approximately twice as high as buying epoxy enamel.

Recovery methods

There are only three main ways to restore a damaged bathtub surface.

Epoxy paint

Enameling is the oldest and most proven method of updating a bathtub. It has many advantages:

most cheap method bathroom restoration;
during its implementation, the bathtub and drain siphon are not dismantled;
You can paint cast iron and iron bathtubs.

You should also, before choosing to paint your bathtub, learn about the disadvantages of this method:

the enamel turns yellow over time;
the surface becomes sensitive to shock and mechanical stress;
painting the bathtub takes no more than three hours, but drying will take a whole week;
enamel will not help hide manufacturing defects on the surface of the bathtub.

Acrylic liner in old bath

For this method, a plastic tab is used, which is glued to the inside baths. This method deserves attention, since a restored bathtub can last up to 15 years.

high strength of the material;
the plastic coating is not capable of yellowing;
perfectly smooth coating without any defects.

Unfortunately, using an acrylic liner in an old bathtub also has some disadvantages:

an even tab can also be a disadvantage, since before the bath were produced with some defects;
not used for iron or thin cast iron bathtubs;
Before installing the tab, the siphon must be dismantled;
the adhesive foam used for installation may come off over time;
if the bathtub is lined with ceramic tiles, it may be necessary to dismantle some areas ceramic coating and laying new tiles.

Liquid acrylic

Acrylic in liquid form resembles condensed milk; to restore a bathtub using this method, acrylic is “poured” onto inner covering baths.

Pros of using this method:

after application you should wait only 36 hours and you can take a bath;
the strength of the coating is achieved by the absence of glue between the coating and acrylic;
liquid acrylic has all the advantages of an acrylic liner - it remains snow-white, retains water temperature well, and is not afraid of interaction with aggressive chemicals;
This method can be used to restore a bathtub made of any material.

Disadvantages of using the poured acrylic method:

it is necessary to dismantle the drain siphon;
liquid acrylic will copy all the deformations and unevenness of the bathtub surface.

Enamelling

Enameling bathtubs is one of the methods for updating them. Thin layer special enamel will help improve it appearance quite quickly and inexpensively.

But there is also a drawback to using this method, since the service life is no more than 5 years. Then you will have to repeat it all over again.

Bathtub enamel can be done in rented apartment so as not to spend extra money on buying a new bathroom.

Bulk method

Another method of bathtub restoration is called “fill-in”, which is perfect for apartment owners. It is characterized high quality and the price will be more expensive. The “fill-in” method of restoring a bathtub helps extend its service life to 15 years, which significantly exceeds the service life of the bathtub after applying enamel.

Also, using the “fill bath” method, you can easily remove all the unevenness or imperfections of the bath, and its surface will become smooth and snow-white.

To carry out the “fill bath” procedure, liquid acrylic is used. It is slowly poured onto the sides of the bathtub, after which the acrylic begins to flow down. With this application, the bathtub coating becomes even and smooth.

DIY enameling

Enameled bathtubs are damaged by the formation of various cracks, scratches and chips, since the material is quite fragile. Over time, dirt gets into the cracks and the bathtub loses its original appearance.

In a factory, enamel is applied to hot metal, so the factory coating is stronger and more durable than the one you get at home. Of course, you can reconstruct an enamel bath yourself, but it’s worth considering that not everyone succeeds the first time.

To achieve the desired result, you should take all actions very carefully and slowly.

Clean the bathtub from the previous coating. First, clean with detergent, and then use a tool to remove all the coating. For this type of work, you can use a grinder with a grinding wheel, a drill with a specially abrasive attachment, or a regular emery stone. Particular attention should be paid to cleaning the bottom so that it becomes white. To do this, you can use a cord brush.
Thoroughly degrease the bathtub using detergent. To make a new coating of high quality, you need to get rid of all organic matter, including from fat. Don't forget to use a respirator and rubber gloves.
Rinse the bath thoroughly with hot water.
The drain and overflow are covered with masking tape It also covers the edges of the bathtub, to which the walls adjoin.
The coating is dried. Remains of enamel are removed with a vacuum cleaner. The bathroom floor should be covered with available materials, such as newspapers or polyethylene.

If you decide to use epoxy enamel to restore the bathtub coating, you need to know that:

When adding hardener, the proportions must be strictly observed. Epoxy paint is highly toxic, so when working with it you must use a spray bottle. First you need to add hardener to only half of the paint.
To paint the bathtub, use a flat brush, the width of which should be 7 cm or more. Painting begins from the top edge of the bathtub.
Using a brush, you should make a vertical strip from top to bottom, and then begin painting the bathtub using horizontal lines. This action is performed along the entire perimeter of the product.
Then paint the side of the bathtub again, Special attention should be given to the inside.
Then the second part of the paint is taken and diluted, and then the application of the enamel coating continues. You need to carefully monitor the uniformity of paint application.
After a week, the bathtub can already be used.

Bulk method

Bulk method for bathtub restoration is quite new, but is already very popular among consumers. This method uses special remedy– liquid acrylic. You can choose the color of the future bath to make it the center bathroom or emphasize color scheme in bathroom design.

The pour-in method for restoring bathtubs combines the advantages of other methods, such as using an acrylic liner and applying enamel. Therefore, the main advantages of this method are:

A bathtub after using the pouring method will last longer than a bathtub after enameling.
Liquid acrylic can be applied to bathtubs of various shapes, and for example, an acrylic liner is produced mainly standard sizes and rectangular in shape.

No need to dismantle ceramic tiles around the bath, when using the pouring method, as is done when installing an acrylic liner.
No need to dismantle the siphon when using liquid acrylic.
Buying liquid acrylic will cost less than purchasing an acrylic liner. Compared to enameling a bathtub, liquid acrylic will cost a little more.

If we talk about shortcomings, then only one can be attributed to them. This is a long drying period for liquid acrylic, which reaches two days.

After the restoration work, your bathtub will become snow-white, smooth and sparkling. But if you don’t pay proper attention to caring for it, then soon the bathtub will become approximately the same as it was before staining.

To extend the life of the enamel, you need to follow a few simple rules:

to clean the bath, use gentle detergents– for example, dishwashing detergents;
Never use sharp objects or acids for cleaning;
If you soak laundry in the bathtub, you should not use bleach.

Bath enamel: enamel and painting, coating restoration and restoration

Bath enamel allows you to quickly restore the surface. Your bath will look like new! What should you consider when choosing enamel and how to do enameling correctly?

Talented designers and world fashion trendsetters are increasingly refusing to use expensive jewelry to create the look of runway models. Diverse jewelry is rapidly winning the hearts of the fair sex from different parts of the world. globe. Many private entrepreneurs make the creation of interesting accessories a profitable business in their lives and devote a lot of time and effort to this hobby. The variety of materials is amazing: there are also stone options, and models made of, and intertwined real silver with thick plastic. Epoxy products are rightfully considered no less popular and in demand. They are distinguished by their attractive appearance, long service life and unusual shapes. How to extend the life of such jewelry and maintain its presentability for a long time? Apply the finishing coat, which is what we will talk about in this article.

Key Features

Or paint applied over the resin is intended not only for decorative purposes, but also to protect the base from harmful effects ultraviolet rays. Direct hit sunlight worsens the appearance of the product and also has a destructive effect on the surface. For timely and long-term protection, you should choose a coating that is not afraid of UV and effectively resists its harmful effects. In this regard, glossy options have more advantages: due to their structure, they instantly reflect light and allow you to maintain pigmentation in its original state for a long time. The matte layer copes with these responsibilities worse, so it is used much less often and requires storage in dark places.

Compatibility

It is a hardened, hard plastic that is quite difficult to dissolve or break. Thanks to this property, it can be coated with a variety of chemical compounds and even solvents that are not able to soften the material and react with its constituent elements. However, you should not take risks: if you decide to purchase unfamiliar paint, it is better to first test it for small area, which you don’t mind throwing away if damaged or spoiled.

Many coatings are fully compatible with the above product as it does not interact with chemical compounds. Polyurethanes and polyester are sometimes significantly damaged by natural amines and, if used, must be applied to a fully petrified resin - an average of two weeks in room conditions. To speed up the curing process, you can use an increase in temperature: for example, leave ready product Near hot battery or send it to the oven for a short period of time at 60 degrees Celsius. This method is best used when using dark shades.

Types of coatings

Latex paints do an excellent job of providing UV protection. Many architectural structures can boast of such a surface. There are also disadvantages - limited wear resistance, tendency to scratches and damage;
Alkyd finishes ( different types enamels and traditional varnish) are characterized by ease of use, low cost, almost complete absence of toxicity, and regular availability on store shelves. Their diversity requires caution when choosing: only premium materials provide a long-term effect and practically do not wear out for several years, even with regular wear of jewelry;
One-component and two-component polyurethane coatings have undoubted advantages: easy application, quick and trouble-free cleaning, excellent protective properties. The only drawback is the high price, but the quality remains the same. top level. The expense is minimal, so you can spend a lump sum one-time in order to enjoy charming, iridescent jewelry in the future.

Let's sum it up

Epoxy jewelry will appeal to lovers of original, exclusive products that are distinguished by good wear resistance and charm. The hardness of the material and its natural, even shine theoretically make it possible to refuse additional use means to create a protective layer. However, it should be taken into account that the service life in this case is significantly reduced. If you do not plan to apply a coating, it is recommended to store accessories only in dark, well-ventilated areas, away from harmful sunlight. In addition, you should not leave sharp, piercing or cutting objects nearby, which can cause unwanted abrasions. Take care of your necklaces, beads, rings, bracelets, and then you will be able to admire their amazing shine and excellent playfulness longer.

Paint or varnish applied to a barrier layer of epoxy resin serves for decorative purposes and, at the same time, protects epoxy resin from sunlight. This way, the topcoat prolongs the life of the epoxy barrier layer, which in turn provides a stable base that prolongs the life of the topcoat. Together they form protective system significantly more reliable than either coating alone.

Sunlight protection is the main criterion in choosing finishing coating. Long-term protection of the barrier layer from UV ( ultraviolet radiation) depends on the efficiency with which the finishing layer resists UV and retains pigments and/or a layer of UV inhibitors on the surface of the epoxy barrier layer. Glossy coatings reflect large quantity sun rays from the surface than matte. Therefore, white - especially glossy white - is the most reliable coating.

Coating compatibility

Most coatings are compatible with cured epoxy resin, which is a virtually inert, rigid plastic. Thus, most solvents in paints will not soften or react with the epoxy resin surface. However, we recommend making a test panel to ensure compatibility of the coatings. In all cases, we recommend following the manufacturer's instructions to check compatibility.

One-component polyurethanes and polyester gelcoat can be damaged by epoxy amines and, if used, must be applied to fully cured resin - an average of two weeks per room temperature. Full cure can be achieved faster by drying at elevated temperature. Drying will improve the thermal characteristics of the epoxy resin and is recommended for further coating with dark-colored paints.

Types of coatings

Latex paints are compatible with epoxy and will do their job of protecting the epoxy surface from UV. In many architectural works latex paints may be the most convenient covering. Their durability is limited.

Alkyd topcoats - enamel, alkyd enamel, yacht enamel, acrylic enamel, alkyd resin-modified epoxy resin, traditional varnish - provide ease of application, low cost, low toxicity, and availability. Cons: only very quality materials They have the necessary degree of protection against irradiation and low abrasion resistance.
One-component polyurethane coatings offer ease of application, cleaning, and best characteristics than alkyd materials. They are more expensive and some may not be compatible with the amine cured WEST SYSTEM epoxy resin. However, hardener 207 will give better compatibility. Take a test.

Two-component paints based on linear polyurethanes (LP) provide the most reliable protection. LP coatings are available in both pigmented and clear, providing exceptional UV protection, gloss retention, abrasion resistance and full compatibility with epoxy resin. But compared to other types of coatings, they are expensive, require skill to apply, and pose greater health risks, especially when sprayed.

Epoxy paints come in one-component and two-component types. Two-component epoxy paints have characteristics similar to polyurethane paints. They are resistant to abrasion and impact chemical substances, but have limited UV resistance compared to paints based on linear polyurethanes.
Antifouling paints are available on the market in a wide variety of formulas. Most are compatible with epoxy resin and can be applied directly to the prepared barrier layer. If you are not sure of compatibility, or have problems with hardening and adhesion to a specific paint, apply a primer recommended for this antifouling paint to the barrier layer. Follow recommendations for preparing fiberglass surfaces. Other paints, including yacht polyurethane coatings and primers, are not recommended for use below the waterline.

Primers. Generally not required for paint adhesion to epoxy resin, but some paints require an intermediate primer; High-build coatings can be useful for hiding scratches and stains on the surface. If the application instructions for the selected paint or varnish require a special primer to be applied to the surface, follow the recommendations for preparing fiberglass. It is not recommended to use etch primers due to the chemical resistance of epoxy resin.

Polyester gelcoat is a pigmented version of polyester resin used to build fiberglass boats and many other products. Gelcoat provides smooth surface and is applied during the manufacturing process of a boat or other product. Gel coat is not often used as a post-production finish, but it can be applied to epoxy resin and is useful in repair work. Uncured epoxy will prevent the gelcoat from curing properly. For detailed information on applying polyester gelcoats to epoxy resin, refer to manual 002-550, Fiberglass Boat Repair and Maintenance, published by Wessex Resins.

Always follow the coating manufacturer's instructions. Regardless, as previously written, we recommend doing a test panel to evaluate the required degree of surface preparation, compatibility and performance characteristics of the finish.