What glue is best for plastic models. Glue for plastic models. How to choose glue for plastic models. Glue for paper models

16.06.2019

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Glue for prefabricated models is one of the most popular Supplies from the designer. The construction of most copies of passenger cars and trucks, military equipment, ships and airliners. Using glue allows you to assemble the model at your own discretion. With its help, the designer can join parts even from different sets (if his idea requires it).

In the online store site you can buy glue for prefabricated models of both Russian and foreign production. We offer products brands Tamiya, Aurora Hobby, Revell, Zvezda and Airfix. According to reviews from designers, the optimal price-quality ratio is glue for prefabricated models from the Zvezda company (its photo is on the website). It has already been tested by time.

Glue for plastic models is:

Cyanoacrylate.

This composition is optimal when it is necessary to connect etched or epoxy resin parts of a scale model. It can also be used for gluing parts made of cardboard, wood and other materials. Even though this type of glue sets and dries quickly, the modeler has a little time after applying it to the surface to adjust the position of the parts. If you are interested in creating plastic models (airplanes, cars, ships), then you are probably looking for high-quality plastic glue. After all, it should hold up well even on smooth surface

, and this is not always easy to achieve.

Purpose of glue

When gluing parts of a product, appropriate model glue is most often used to fasten plastic elements. With its help, you can easily make any fantasy of assembling an airplane from a variety of parts into reality. Anyone who wants to receive quality, as in the photo, tries to carefully finish and work out every detail. If an error is made when assembling any element, then the entire structure will look sloppy or become insufficiently stable.

Types of glue

So, you have purchased everything you need plastic parts and spare parts for your future model, all that remains is to assemble it. What glue to choose for airplane models?

Many masters prefer Russian manufacturers. One of these is special glue for plastic models called “Star”, used for assembling products. But do not rush to immediately purchase the proposed product; first, decide on the type of material from which your design consists. It could be:

cardboard or paper;
resin parts;
plastic parts;
metal parts.

Now let's move on to the next step - we will decide on the means of fastening parts of the product from different types material. The model can be glued together using the following types glue:

Polystyrene - designed for work based on melting plastic parts.
Water-based adhesives.
Cyanoacrylic.
Products based on epoxy resin.

These are the most common options for fastening model spare parts by connecting them. Today, glue for plastic models is so widespread that it can be purchased at any specialty store.

Types of products for plastic

There are a large number of companies engaged in the production of glue exclusively for plastic structures. The polystyrene type is perfect for assembling models. Manufacturers such as Zvezda, Tamiya, Italeri, Revell and others are actively involved in its production.

But they are all similar in their properties. However, depending on density, they are usually divided into groups:

Liquid - are produced mainly in polyethylene bottles and have a special applicator that makes the work easier. Examples: Italeri, Faller, Zvezda, Humbrol, Revell, Auhagen and Tamiya.
Medium density - produced in durable glass vials, the kit also includes a brush-shaped applicator on a cork.
Thick - available in small tubes. The main advantage is that this glue dries much longer than others, which allows you to work slowly and not think about how to replace a poorly glued part.

As stated earlier, polystyrene glue operates on the principle of melting plastic. In other words, when applying the “Star” or other product, its smallest particles penetrate inside the surfaces being glued and then harden, thereby adhering the plastic parts of the model. The spare parts finally dry out after a day, but they can be used after 60-120 minutes.

Revell glue manufacturers make special cans with a needle to provide maximum convenience in use. You can see how to use it in the video. Tamiya makes brush cans. Thus, the bottle can help you out if you are dealing with crevices. But the Zvezda adhesive does not include any other device in its kit to make it easier to use.

Other types

As for other glue options, their use when connecting parts of a plastic model is quite doubtful. For example, a product designed for bonding paper parts is in no way suitable for bonding metal or plastic. The same can be said about other types of glue. Therefore, when purchasing this material, it is better to once again make sure which glue is for models made of plastic will do to you.

Glue for models

There are quite a lot of models available in model stores. a large assortment glue for models from different manufacturers and for different types of work. At first it is quite difficult for a beginner to understand this diversity. I hope this article, based on personal experience, will be useful for beginning modeling enthusiasts.

As a rule, everyone first buys glue for “Star” models. This glue has two advantages: it is available in all model stores and costs a penny. This is where the advantages end and after a very short time the glue from the bottle ends up spilled on the table at best, or on the carpet at worst, because... The shape of the bottle is designed just for this. In general, try it - you won't like it. :)

Tamiya cement extra thin model glue with lemon scent

This glue for models is our everything! Excellent for gluing PS plastic from which models are made, it leaves virtually no marks on the surface of the model. The lid is equipped with a brush, which is convenient for applying glue to the surfaces to be glued. The bottle is very stable, you won't accidentally turn it over.

Glue can be applied to the joints of parts before gluing, or you can first join the parts and then simply carefully apply a small amount of glue to the joint. Due to its good fluidity, the glue itself will spread over the joint and reliably wet the surfaces to be glued. In general, they are a pleasure to work with!

Tamiya has two types of this glue, lemon scented (in fact, it smells more like orange) and traditional (green label). I chose glue with a fragrance (it’s a little more expensive) so as not to cause unpleasant sensations to my household.

As practice shows, this amount of glue will last for a very long time, the consumption is minimal. The glue is very economical.

Adhesive for Tamiya cement models with lemon scent

It has a thicker consistency and the brush is thicker. The rest of the characteristics are the same quality glue.

I use it in cases where I need to practically “weld” one part to another. Although, liquid glue copes with this task just as well.

I read somewhere on the forums that this glue can be diluted and you can get exactly the same liquid glue as Tamiya Extra Thin, but I forgot what. In the same way, there is an analogue of glue without fragrance.

Cyanoacrylic glue

Cyanoacrylic glue Super Moment. 3 gr.

Sold in any supermarket in packaging of 3 grams and under different brands. Used when you need to glue parts made of tin, photo-etching or any other materials other than model plastic. For example, all the tin parts were glued together with this glue. In online model stores you can find specialized glue for models based on cyanoacrylate. In fact, this is the same glue from the supermarket, only several times more expensive, I don’t see the point in buying it.

Super glue sets instantly, which is a disadvantage in our business, because... it is impossible to adjust the location of the parts to be glued after they are connected. A part glued with this glue can easily come off if you apply a certain amount of force, so you need to be careful.

For ease of use, I use empty tablet packaging. I squeeze a drop of glue into the “cup” and apply it to the surface to be glued with a simple toothpick. It turns out very neat and economical.

“Palette and brush” for super glue

It's important to remember that cyanoacrylate vapors are quite toxic and it is better to work with it in a ventilated area. Well, try to keep your nose away from the gluing area, which is not always possible :)

Glue "Moment"

Universal glue Moment

“Moment” is convenient for gluing large parts made of tin to plastic. Before gluing, you need to apply glue to both parts thin layer, wait a while, and then press them together. It is convenient because you can adjust the position of the parts for some time after gluing; excess glue can be easily cleaned off. The gluing area must be allowed to dry.

Denis Demin, AllModels channel, recommends diluting Moment glue with a solvent to obtain a more liquid consistency, which makes it more convenient to work with.

Glue moment crystal

Transparent glue Moment “Crystal”

I'm thinking of trying it as a model glue for gluing transparent parts. Conducted an experiment on a transparent sprue. So far it’s not very impressive: air bubbles form in the drop and the glue dissolves the plastic a little.

Experiment with glue "Crystal"

Perhaps with a thinner layer of glue the result would be better.

PVA

PVA-based glue is sold in any supermarket or store stationery. In its original form it is an opaque white liquid. But, when dry, it becomes almost transparent. The degree of transparency, as I understand it, depends on the purification of the glue. In general, most specialized clear glue for models is well-refined PVA. In the photo below you can see the degree of transparency of the PVA glue after drying.

Experiment with PVA glue

Actually, Futura is a floor polishing liquid, but it is used in modeling as a very fluid and opaque varnish. You can read more about Futura at this link. But in some cases it can also be used for gluing transparent parts. The gluing area must be dried for 24 hours.

There are certain difficulties in purchasing this “miracle liquid” in Russia, but I found a wonderful online store where you can buy “Futura” in 120 or 35 ml packaging. It may not be available, but the guys carry it. Monitor supplies. I recommend!

How to use model glue correctly

Don't pour too much liquid glue into the joint of parts, the result will not get better, but the likelihood that it will flow under your fingers or tweezers with which you hold the part, and they will leave an annoying imprint on the plastic, increases greatly.

If you accidentally spill glue on your model, do not try to wipe it off., you'll only make it worse! It’s better to let it dry well, and then carefully sand the area where the glue got in, in this case, the “destruction” will be minimal.

Make sure that liquid glue does not flow under the masking tape., he loves it and as a result, when you remove the tape, a surprise will await you and a section of “floating” plastic.

The place where the super glue is glued is quite fragile. A little force and the part flies off. Be careful. It is advisable to degrease the gluing area; it will hold much better.

Let the Futura bonded area dry for at least 12 hours. And even after this, the result will not be the same as if we glued with ordinary model glue.

I like both scenarios in this picture :)

In this article about glue for models, I am simply sharing my modest experience and will be glad to receive any comments and additions. Write comments!

— your guide to the world of scale modeling!

Work on a large-scale prefabricated model consists of a continuous connection of individual work stages - elements of construction and assembly. Just like an airplane is created at an aircraft factory. First one stage, then another. At the largest aircraft factories in the world (such as Boeing), the aircraft is generally located on a platform that continuously moves during assembly (from the beginning of the assembly shop to the finish).

And if we want to get really standing model — we need to improve the efficiency of everyone individual element assembly process. After all, if one element is bad, then maximizing the subsequent ones is much more difficult. If it makes sense at all.

Often a large number of shortcomings are caused by insufficient elaboration of the previous stages.

For example, you can spend all your nerves removing the joints of parts - glue seams, preparing the model body for painting. Often after such work it will be necessary to use a primer.

All this could have been avoided initially quality gluing of parts. So that the joint turns out neat, connection durable, and the seam - inconspicuous.

BUT HOW TO DO THAT?

Here you will need to use different types of adhesives.

In general, until a certain time I did not suspect the existence various types adhesives used in scale modeling. Usually using the simplest one basic type glue. The one we used to glue models back during the Soviet Union. And I didn’t pay any attention to the fairly rich assortment of model adhesives in online stores.

And only after taking a closer look at the work of Japanese modelers in the video materials of the Tamiya company - Tamiya Custom, I decided to look into this issue in more detail. I looked at what exactly they were doing. What adhesives are used and at what stages. Then I bought a little of all the glues. And started experimenting.

Several models from different manufacturers were used to account for differences in plastic. After all, for example, Italeri’s plastic is different from Zvezdovsky’s. And the same Revell.

It turned out that all adhesives have their own specialization. This significantly improves the quality and efficiency of work. You just need to know the features of the composition and use of each individual glue. And break down the assembly process into appropriate elements in advance - subassemblies .

So, let's look at all types of glue in order. And we will start from the very beginning level.

Glue for plastic models: Regular composition

GLUE FOR ASSEMBLY MODELS: REGULAR

This type of glue is known to every modeller, because familiarity with the creation of prefabricated plastic scale models it starts with him. As a matter of fact, until a certain point this type of glue was used by modellers. Much later, Japanese manufacturing companies introduced other specialized types of glue into their product range.

In the Soviet Union, later Russia, most modelers (especially modelers mediocre, who collect models from time to time) use only it in their work throughout their many years of practice.

Therefore, this type of glue can be designated as universal standard .

Its main components are butyl acetate + polystyrene. Bonding is achieved due to the combined effect of the two types of action.

The first is the partial dissolution of the plastic on both bonded surfaces. When we connect the surfaces to be glued together and then leave them to harden, the dissolved plastic mixes with each other, connecting the edges of the parts together. The result is a “solid, single piece.” The joint is solid and durable. Ready for further processing.

This effect is also called welding effect .

The second is the additional fastening of parts with polystyrene particles included in the glue. They strengthen the molecular bonds in the dissolved plastic, helping to form a new solid compound.

The peculiarity of using this type of glue is that it is applied to the surfaces to be glued before joining the parts. Those. You must first apply glue to each joint surface. And only then put them together. For the gluing process to proceed better, it is necessary to give the glue time to dissolve the plastic of each part separately. Wait 1-2 minutes. And only then connect the parts.

WORKING CHIP

While working on a model, many modellers have to deal with the situation of a thin, shallow recess appearing at the site of the glue seam. This is possible when the surfaces are not sufficiently prepared and the edges of the parts to be glued have an angle other than 90 degrees.

To avoid such troubles that border on the use of putty after drying, you need to do the following. During gluing, it is necessary not only to connect the parts, but to press them tightly against each other. Press one part onto another. As a result, the melted plastic will come out. Having fixed the parts in this position, leave them to dry. Then simply remove excess plastic from the joint surface with a modeling knife. And that’s all - the glue seam has an excellent shape that does not require additional processing.

There is one condition. You need to practice in advance on unnecessary details. Different plastics from different manufacturers have differences in their structure. Therefore, the same pressure force can cause completely different effect. If you apply too much pressure, you can easily ruin the details of the model.

As always, caution and accuracy are important here. And preliminary preparation

GLUE FOR ASSEMBLY MODELS: SUPERFLUID

In general, the name of this type of glue should sound like “glue with increased capillary effect.” This is a liquid adhesive with very high penetrating ability, good volatility, high fluidity, without a consistent filler (gluing is achieved by partially dissolving the plastic on the surfaces to be bonded).

The main advantage of this type of glue is the possibility of penetration - flowing into the joint between folded parts . In other words, when working on a model, you connect the parts together and run a brush with glue along the joint. And thanks to its high fluidity, it independently penetrates into the joint. The action of this glue is fast. The welding effect appears very quickly. You won’t have to wait long for gluing and hardening either.

Often this glue is supplied in containers with a built-in brush. But if you use Akan Pro glue, you will need a brush. An ordinary brush, preferably synthetic. One or zero.

Another one interesting feature highly fluid adhesive is that when it gets on the surface of the plastic, it leaves virtually no traces when it hardens. It evaporates quickly, leaving behind a cloudy rough surface. Which is not critical for further painting, and does not require a primer.

I would like to say a special word about the Akan Profi glue. It also belongs to the category of high-fluidity. But working with him means high degree caution. He - " nuclear". It not only easily penetrates the plane of the joint of parts, but also very actively dissolves plastic. If you pour this glue onto a surface with potholes and uneven surfaces, it will cope with the leveling task better than putty. He Very good dissolves plastic. Tested on Ital and Zvezda.

Also, when using it, you must be careful not to spill it on the model. Pro only in very small doses does not leave any imprints. Even a medium-sized drop can be enough to form a molten recess.

It took me a long time to get used to this glue, but I liked its power. So I experimented further. Then, having found out its features of application in practice, I made it the main working glue in the process of assembling models.

In general, on this moment, high flow glue is essential for me when working on a model. Be it Akan Pro, or Tamiya ExtraThin Cement. Regular glue I use it only for joining large parts.

GLUE FOR ASSEMBLY MODELS: TRANSPARENT

In general, having considered the above types of glue, we could stop. After all, thanks to them we will be able to achieve solid results. But that would be wrong. There is another very specific type of glue.

T.N. "transparent glue" Its representative is “Contacta Clear” from Revell. Its only purpose is to glue transparent parts. Both among themselves and with the plastic of the model itself. In fact, this is a variation of the same universal glue. Only there is no welding effect. Bonding is carried out due to the base, which becomes transparent when dry.

The glue is applied in a thin layer to the bonded surfaces of both parts. Then it needs to be allowed to dry for about 5-10 minutes (so that the adhesive layer is still sticky). Then we carefully press the parts to be glued together.

Glue for plastic models: Cyanoacrylate all-purpose glue

GLUE FOR ASSEMBLY MODELS: CYANOACRYLATE

Cyanoacrylate glue, better known as “superglue,” which is the Russian translation of the Super Glue trademark. This is the name in former USSR has become a household name.

Super Glue was first developed in 1942 (during World War II) by American chemist Harry Coover, who worked for Eastman Kodak, during experiments to find transparent plastics for optical sights. However, the substance was rejected due to excessive stickiness. In 1951, American researchers, while searching for a heat-resistant coating for fighter cabins, accidentally discovered the ability of cyanoacrylate to firmly bond. various surfaces. This time, Coover appreciated the capabilities of the substance, and in 1958, superglue went on sale for the first time, “exploding” the market.

In Russia, superglue is also sold under the brands “Clayberry”, “Sila”, “Cyanopan”, “Skley”, “Secunda”, “Monolith”, “Elephant”, “Super-moment”, etc. In the USSR, the glue was produced under the name “ cyacrine."

Adhesives based on cyanoacrylates can easily withstand loads of 150 kg/cm2, and more advanced ones, such as Loctite’s “Black Max” - 250 kg/cm2. The heat resistance of the connection is low and is comparable to the heat resistance of acrylic plexiglass: from 70-80 °C for conventional adhesives, up to 125 °C for modified ones.

Cyanoacrylate is a strong, quick-setting, instant adhesive. Easily bonds non-porous and water-containing materials. It sets in less than a minute and reaches maximum strength after two hours. However, its shear strength is low, so superglue is sometimes used as a thread locker or to secure a workpiece on a lathe.

Information from the Wikipedia portal was used.

In large-scale modeling, cyanoacrylate, thanks to its ability to glue structures that are completely different in their properties, has also found its place - it has occupied its niche. We use it to fix photo-etched products and conversions created from epoxy resin.

Often we use super glue purchased from print shops or hardware stores. At the same time, the range of model chemistry manufacturers has long included specialized cyanoacrylate model adhesives. Although essentially their difference is only in the special packaging, convenient for the work of the scale modeler. So there is not much difference between them. And what to use - everyone decides for themselves, based on personal preferences.

It is worth considering that super glue has two types of consistencies - regular and gel-like. The second is thicker, jelly-like. It makes it easier to apply glue exactly to the gluing areas, avoiding drips.

GLUE FOR ASSEMBLY MODELS: EPOXY

Finally, it is necessary to mention two-component epoxy adhesives.

Their main property is that epoxy resin mixed with the hardener, it obtains a strong and very durable connection of the parts. But in my opinion they didn't find wide application in the field of modeling using plastic prefabricated models.

This glue is suitable for wood and fiberglass models, wire parts, and photo-etching. But it is contraindicated for polystyrene models, since epoxy resin cannot adhere to plastic.

Epoxy two-component adhesives are also available in two versions - regular and modeling. One of the most interesting shapes packaging usual options Cyanoacrylate has Contact glue. The shape of the tube allows you to squeeze out both the resin and hardener from two sections in equal proportions in one movement. They are automatically mixed at the outlet. Of the special modeling options, I know only glue from Tamiya.

But again, personally, I don’t see the point in using epoxy in our business. If anyone sees it, please reflect your opinion in the comments. It will be of interest to all members of our community.

At this point we have covered all types of glue used in scale modeling. What types of glue to use is, of course, up to you to decide. But to achieve sustainable good result- the use of specialized tools is required.