What varnish to coat the lining indoors. What varnish to cover the lining. Acrylic water-based translucent paint

A huge number of people around the world are finishing and tiling their residential buildings They prefer a beautiful and natural material - wooden lining. With its environmental friendliness and natural beauty, it not only decorates the room, but also creates a certain favorable microclimate in it. In this article we will tell you what is the best way to cover the lining inside the house in order to create attractive interior and protect the coating from darkening, mechanical damage and rotting.

How to properly paint lining?

Apparent good method“Take a brush, paint and paint” is in no way suitable. Wood painted this way will not last long. Wouldn't it be better to choose a more correct and thorough approach?

Painting technology wooden lining involves full complex work in 4 main stages:

1. Preparation.
2. Primer.
3. Protection.
4. Decorative painting.

Preparing the lining for painting

This stage construction work will be unnecessary for eurolining, because European manufacturers operate according to special standards, which require mandatory primary treatment of decorative wood panels with protective compounds.

For those who purchased standard lining domestic production or is going to install products with a pre-painted surface, first of all, it is necessary to carry out careful primary processing of the wood.

Preparation of new lining

Preparing a new wood board that you bought in one of the stores building materials, includes the following work:

1. A batch of lining usually allows up to 10% re-grading, that is, the available first-grade material may contain a small amount of second-grade board. In order not to disturb the integrity of the surface, the lamellas must be carefully examined and sorted.
2. The lining that you purchased must be perfectly dry before installation.
3. It is necessary to hold the material in temperature conditions the premises where you plan to install the carriage board. Of course, it doesn’t make sense to bring the temperature to a sauna level to “warm” the board, but it should lie in the room where the installation will take place for 2-3 days.
4. Elimination of defects. Surface defects of the lining include roughness, blue discoloration, white spots, chips, and dead knots. Some of the defects on the panels can be left untouched, because during the work you will need a short lining - for finishing above the doors and windows. But before installation, the exposed surfaces of the boards must be cleaned of defects by bleaching.

Important! For such work, it is recommended to use “Snow Neo” or “Frost”. Grease stains can be removed by degumming by wiping them with a 25% acetone solution. Using sandpaper or a wire brush you can remove rough edges.

Preparation of the used lining

Unfortunately, painting wooden lining is not a process that can be carried out only once during its entire service life. It must be repeated periodically.

Before painting varnished lining, it is necessary to carry out pre-treatment planks.

Typically, repainting of lining is necessary in the following cases:

• the bottom layer of paint has peeled off;
• the slats have lost their color;
• paint or varnish has lost its shine;
• a significant defect has appeared on the surface, for example, oil, grease, other dye, solvent, or fungal damage;
• The current color of the lining does not match the new interior of the house.

How to clean lining from varnish, paint and dirt?

There are two ways to remove old varnish or paint from the surface of the lining:

1. Chemical. It involves the use of various synthetic solutions and compositions - removers and softeners, which help the paint peel off from the base. Note that chemical method is quite aggressive. After removing the surface layer, you need to rinse the slats with water or wipe with white spirit.

Important! Work using these products should be carried out in a well-ventilated area, using personal protective equipment.

1. Mechanical. The existing coating can be removed using a metal brush, a scraper or a hair dryer and a spatula. For complete removal The paint on the board needs to be treated with a soda solution. The big disadvantage of this method is the likelihood of damage to the lamella with a brush or scraper.

Important! If you can’t decide which stripping method to prefer, take note of these tips:

• The mechanical method of cleaning lining is best suited for removing oil paint.
• If you plan to cover the cleaned wood surface with a transparent varnish, then it is more profitable to prefer the mechanical method, because washes can unevenly whiten the lining.

If partial deep defects occur, they must be repaired with putty. Then apply a layer of paint to the treated area, wait until it dries, and then completely paint the entire surface with the lining.

Priming the lining

To give a uniform structure wooden covering The primer is applied using a sprayer or brush.

If you apply a primer before painting, this will give the wooden lining several undeniable advantages:

• will improve the “adhesion” of the future surface layer - varnish or paint - with wood;
• protects the tree from swelling;
• will close the pores, which will allow you to apply the topcoat more evenly;
• reduces consumption decorative covering- paint or varnish.

Important! Some types of wood, for example, certain types of pine or spruce, are capable of quite long time release resin. To avoid this, the lining must be treated with a special primer that will close the wood pores.

Types of primers for lining

What is the best way to cover the lining inside a house? The types of primer depend on the composition. On modern market building materials you can find the following types of primer coating:

1. Alkyd. This coating is suitable for both outdoor and internal use. These compositions are adapted to a specific type of wood, and therefore their choice is the most diverse.
2. Acrylic. This composition is reliable protection from any damage except rot and rust. This primer is suitable for use when performing interior repairs.
3. Polystyrene primers. Due to high toxicity, they are suitable only for outdoor use.
4. Primer with PVA glue. The PVA glue solution, which is well-deservedly popular among users, is prepared in the proportion of 10 drops of glue per 100 ml of water and is applied twice. This is necessary to avoid the appearance of unprimed areas, which will become visible only after complete drying.

Important! Disadvantages of the method: a whitish coating may appear on the wooden paneling; such whitishness is not visible on untreated wood, but on a tinted surface it is very noticeable. Partially hides the wood structure.

1. Drying oil. This is a long-known remedy that makes wood sticky and changes its color. Excellent quality enough budget option, if you need to cover the lining inside the house.

Important! The primer applied to the surface of the wood should not form a film.

1. Gelatin primer. As a primer, some users recommend using edible gelatin. Gelatin is soaked in cold water in the proportion of 1 part gelatin to 2 parts water, then heat in a water bath until the granules are completely dissolved. Cool the composition until slightly thickened, and cover the lining with it in 2-3 layers.

Important! Compositions from the following manufacturers are deservedly considered the best industrial chemicals for priming when restoring lining:

• Tikkurila;
• Belinka;
• Lakra;
• Pinotex.

Wood protection

To protect the surface from scratches and other damage, it must be coated with a special chemical composition. These products are designed to protect wood from moisture, rot, fungal infections, pests and ultraviolet radiation.

Methods and means of protecting wood

Specifics protective equipment is that they become invisible when dry and penetrate deeply into the wood structure. The application of such compounds is a very important step in protecting the lining. Manufacturers of eurolining apply them at the pre-sale preparation stage.

Important! It is better to treat the lining with a primer on both sides. The ends of the lamellas need to be given Special attention. This is due to the fact that after installation the end side will not be painted.

You can choose the following solutions to cover the lining inside the house:

• Fire retardants. Compositions that are made on the basis of aqueous solutions of salts. They are designed to protect wood products from fire.

Important! The decorative products you use should also increase the fire resistance of the wood.

• Antiseptics. These are chemical compounds that have an active antifungal effect. They are designed to protect the lining from the biological activity of various fungi and pests.

Important! Before installing the lining, it must be treated with an antiseptic. This is due to the fact that the downside wooden plank, which includes tongues and grooves, also needs processing.

Coating for lining - paint, varnish

You need to be very responsible when choosing a decorative finishing coating - varnish or paint.

When planning repair work, many people wonder what is preferable for wooden lining - paint or varnish? If paint, what kind? would be better suited for products made from natural wood? First, you need to decide on the location of the work, what effect is expected, what is the quality of the surface to be painted, time requirements, etc.

So, what is the best way to cover the lining inside the house at the finishing stage?

Dye

There are several types of paints that would be quite appropriate in this method of repair.

Oil paint:

• As practice has shown, paint on oil based durable and reliably protects wood from moisture.
• It changes color slowly and dries quickly.
• This type of paint has a specific odor that disappears when aired.
• Such a decorative coating on the lining will not be difficult to update. Oil paint must be renewed every 5-6 years.
• This procedure should be carried out to eliminate microcracks through which moisture can damage the lining and to give the paint a lost shine.

Important! Initially, you should choose more dark shade paints. Painted oil paint The surface of the lining will become a little lighter after drying.

Acrylic or acrylate paint:

• This type of paint is distinguished by its absence of odor and high drying speed.
• The use of such compositions does not limit the time of work. Application of paint at low temperatures is allowed.
• Painted acrylate paint the surface of the lining will not need updating for a long time.

Important! High price- its only drawback.

Is stain an impregnation or a decorative glaze?

This is, in fact, the same primer, after processing which the wood changes color or shade. Inexpensive, but very effective method to emphasize the structure of wood is the use of stain. Great option, if you need restoration of the lining.

Important! You can use stain if the wood surfaces have no defects.

Varnish for lining

This coating is classified as transparent. If you need to save natural structure wood, it becomes an indispensable finishing coating.

Acrylic aqualac for lining

This is a quick-drying and environmentally friendly varnish that can be diluted with water. It is used for painting wooden lining from the inside and outside, and also does not have a strong odor.

Important! Aqualak can even be used for repairs in a house where an allergy sufferer lives.

Alkyd varnish for lining

This type of varnish dries for a long time and creates a film on the surface of the panels being painted.

This finishing composition is usually used in rooms with a high moisture content - kitchens or corridors, where increased wear of the lining is usually observed.

Important! Coating the lining with yacht varnish is absolutely durable and resistant to UV radiation, but it is better to do this only on the facade.

Basic criteria for choosing a finishing coating for wooden lining

When choosing how to paint varnished lining inside a house, pay attention to the following characteristics of the proposed finishing coatings:

1. Manufacturer. Quite a few domestic manufacturers of paint or varnish for lining can create worthy competition for foreign goods. It is very nice that the price for them will be more humane.
2. Color. To change the shade or color of the lining, you need to use stain. Eg, light shades visually increase the space. Using the following will help you zone the room different colors and shades.
3. Compound. A coating that can be used for interior work has the prefix “bio” after the name of the varnish, which indicates the absence of harmful substances in its composition.

Tool for painting lining

To properly paint wooden slats, you can use the following specialized tools:

• foam sponge;
• chain-link mitten for painting or impregnating the places where the lining is joined or pipes are framed;
• a spray gun that makes it possible to quickly cope with the required amount of work;
• roller - allows you to quickly paint, but to obtain a uniform layer you need to paint several times.

1. To avoid the appearance of a film on the surface of the paint, during a long break in work, you can put cardboard impregnated with drying oil on the surface.
2. If a film appears, then to prevent it from getting onto the surface to be painted, you need to cover the surface with foam rubber and dip the brush through it.
3. You can get a more saturated shade or color if you apply the paint several times (up to 4). If you increase the number of layers further, it will not have any effect.
4. Do not allow paint or varnish to dry very quickly. This may cause cracking of the painted layer. Professionals do not recommend working with paint or varnish in direct sunlight.

Video material

When we have figured out the nuances of processing, impregnation and painting of wooden lining, we can begin to create beautiful surface to ensure its long life.

Wooden lining has become very popular these days, especially when it comes to baths or saunas. It is even used for finishing apartments and houses, corridors. The hallway, decorated with clapboard, has a very good appearance. You can find out the dimensions of the lining by clicking on the link. But before you start purchasing this material, you should find out that in addition to finishing the room with clapboard, it needs to be processed in the future. This will give the lining an aesthetic appearance and extend its service life. There are several processing methods, in this article we will talk about some.

Processing lining in a bath

Why do you need to process the lining?

Lining made from natural wood needs further processing, the reasons are obvious. If, for example, lining is used for exterior decoration, its condition will be influenced by atmospheric factors - temperature, humidity, wind, direct sunlight. All this can lead to her deplorable state:

• The appearance deteriorates
• Mold and rot develop
• Color changes
• Material deformation occurs

Not even all the changes that can happen to your lining in a year are listed here, without additional processing. Of course, if lining is used for interior cladding of a room, the environment here is softer and therefore changes will occur more slowly.

Preparing the lining

Before you begin the actual processing of the lining, you need to prepare it for this procedure. The first thing you need to do is go over it with fine sandpaper to remove all the unevenness and roughness from the wood. After this, you need to clean the lining from dust; a small brush will do for this. When all this is done, you can begin to directly process the wood.

Application of stain

If you are going to cover the paneling with clear varnish or wax, you will first need to use a stain. It will not only even out the color of the wood, but also preserve it for many years. Modern materials They not only allow you to change the color of the wood, but are also excellent antiseptics that will protect the wood from mold and moisture penetration.

Options available for sale: water based, alcohol and oil. They come in the form of a powder that must dissolve, or ready-made - in the form of a liquid. Ultimately, you will have a liquid that is brushed onto the wood.

Applying wax to the lining

If the lining will be used in the steam room of a bathhouse, then it will not be possible to do without treating it with wax. After all, when high temperatures ah and high humidity, there is a risk of poisoning when using the wrong materials. And wax is a natural material that does not cause any trouble.

The wax is applied using a cloth, applying a small amount in the direction of the grain. The procedure is repeated several times. After polishing, the lining will acquire a deep, even color.

There are various impregnations with wax on sale; they are also quite suitable for processing lining. You can learn the subtleties of their application from the product instructions.

Varnish coating of lining.

Varnish is an already proven means of protecting wood from an aggressive external environment. Today there are many different products of this type. If previously only clear varnish was used, today you can purchase varnish with different shades.

You need to use waterproof varnish, buy not the cheapest one - the best option is medium price category. It is applied in several layers, two or more. Between each layer you need a period of time to allow it to dry. Depending on the type of varnish, drying may take 8 hours or more.

It is advisable to go over the lower layers of varnish with fine sandpaper to remove raised wood lint from the surface.

Processing lining inside the house - instructions

A huge number of people all over the world are decorating their homes, and of course they prefer a beautiful and natural material - wooden lining. This is environmentally friendly, and you will be surrounded by natural beauty, and such material not only creates a beautiful impression, it also affects the favorable microclimate in the room.

But in order for this natural material to serve for a long time, it needs to be looked after, and most importantly, this needs to be done correctly. You cannot take it and paint it with regular paint - you will ruin all the attractiveness, the material will stop breathing, and after a short time the paint will begin to crumble.

The interior of the house includes a full set of works based on four stages:

• Preparation.
• Primer.
• Protection.
• Decorative painting

Preparing the lining for painting

If you use eurolining, then you can skip this stage, because European manufacturers operate according to special standards, which require the mandatory initial treatment of decorative wood panels with protective compounds.

For those who bought standard domestically produced lining or will be installing not new, but previously treated lining, this stage is required.

Preparation of new lining

Preparing a new wooden lining that you purchased from one of the building materials stores includes the following activities:

• A batch of lining, as a rule, allows up to 10% regrading, which means that the first-grade material may contain a small amount of second-grade board. In order not to disturb the integrity of the surface, the material must be carefully examined and sorted.
• The lining that you purchased before installation should be perfectly dry. It should also lie down in the room where installation will be carried out for 2-3 days so that its temperature evens out.
• Elimination of defects. Defects on the surface of the lining include unevenness, blue or white spots, and knots. You don’t have to touch part of the defective lining, because during the work you will need a short piece of material - for finishing above the doors and windows, and you will have something to cut from. But before installation begins front surfaces The material must be freed from stains using bleaching.

Important!!! It is recommended to use a good bleach for this job. Grease stains can be removed by degumming; to do this, wipe them with a 25% acetone solution. You can use sandpaper or a wire brush to remove small protrusions.

Unfortunately, painting wooden lining is not a process that can be performed only once during its entire life. This procedure must be repeated periodically.

Before painting or varnishing the lining, it is necessary to pre-treat its surface.

As a rule, repainting the lining is necessary in the following cases:

1. the bottom layer of paint has peeled off;
2. the lining has lost its color;
3. paint or varnish has lost its shine;
4. a significant defect has appeared on the surface, for example, fungal damage;
5. The existing color of the lining is not suitable for the new interior of the house.

How to clean lining from varnish, paint and dirt?
There are two ways to remove old varnish or paint from the surface of the lining:

• Chemically. Includes the use of various synthetic liquids and forms - removers and softeners, which help the paint peel off the surface. Keep in mind that the chemical method is quite aggressive. After removing the top layer, the lining should be washed with water or wiped with white spirit.

Important!!! To carry out activities using these means, the room must be well ventilated and you must have personal protection.

• Mechanical. In this case, the top layer is removed using a metal brush, scraper or hair dryer and spatula. To completely remove paint from wood, you can treat the surface with a soda solution. The big disadvantage of this method is the possibility of damage smooth surface brush or scraper.

Important!!! If you can't decide which surface cleaning method is best, consider these tips:

• The mechanical method of cleaning lining is the most suitable for removing oil paint.
• If you plan to cover it with a transparent varnish after cleaning the surface, then it is more profitable to prefer a mechanical method, because washes can unevenly whiten the lining.

If there are deep defects in some places in the material, they must be repaired using wood putties.

To give a unified structure to the wooden coating, the primer material is applied with a gun or brush.

If you apply primer before painting, this will give the wooden lining several undeniable advantages:

• will improve the “adhesion” to the future surface layer - varnish or paint;
• protects the wood from moisture penetration;
• will close the pores, allowing you to apply the topcoat more evenly;
• will reduce the consumption of decorative coating - paint or varnish.

Important!!! Some types of wood, such as pine or spruce, can be quite for a long time release resin. To avoid this, the lining must be treated with a special primer that will close the wood pores.

Types of primers for lining
The types of primer depend on the composition. On the modern building materials market you can find the following types of primer coating:

• Alkyd. This coating is suitable for both external and internal use. The material is adapted to various breeds trees, so the choice here is very diverse.
• Acrylic. This composition is reliable protection against all damage except rot and rust. This primer is suitable for use when carrying out internal repair work.
• Polystyrene primers. Due to high toxicity, only suitable for outdoor use.
• Primer with PVA glue. This option is deservedly popular; a PVA glue solution is prepared in a ratio of 10 drops of glue per 100 ml of water, applied in two layers. This is necessary in order to avoid the appearance of unprimed areas, which will only be visible after complete drying.

Important!!! Disadvantages of the latter method: a whitish coating may appear on the wooden paneling; such whiteness is not visible on raw wood, but on a tinted surface it is very noticeable. It also partially hides the structure of the wood.

• Gelatin primer. Some people recommend using edible gelatin as a primer. Gelatin is soaked in cold water in a ratio of 1 part gelatin to 2 parts water, then heated in a water bath until the granules are completely dissolved. Cool the composition until slightly thickened and apply it to the lining in 2-3 layers.

Important!!! Compositions from the following manufacturers are deservedly considered the best industrial chemicals for priming when restoring lining:

• Tikkurila;
• Belinka;
• Lakra;
• Pinotex.

In order to protect the surface from scratches and other damage, it must be coated with special chemical compounds. These products are designed to protect wood from moisture, rot, fungal infections, insect pests and ultraviolet rays.

Methods and means for protecting wood

The specificity of such protective agents is that they become invisible when they dry and penetrate deeply into the structure of the tree. The use of such forms is a very important step in protecting the lining. Eurolining manufacturers do this during pre-sale preparation.

Important!!! It is better to protect and process the lining on both sides. The ends of the material should be given special attention. This is due to the fact that after installation the end side is not painted.

You can choose the following solutions to protect the material inside the house:

Fire retardants. Compounds that form the basis of aqueous salt solutions. They are designed to protect wood products from fire.

Important!!! Used by you decorative elements made of wood, it is necessary to increase fire resistance.

Antiseptics. These are chemical compounds that have an active antifungal effect. They are designed to protect the lining from the biological activity of various fungi and pests.

Important!!! Before installation, the lining must be treated with an antiseptic. This is due to the fact that the reverse side of the plank, ends, and locks also need to be treated with this product.

Selecting a Finish

Natural resins, oils and waxes

IN last years people are becoming more and more inclined to choose natural or so-called natural material. However, you should know that manufacturers and sellers can simply lure their customers with this weakness. The reason is the very vague boundary between “natural” and “synthetic” coatings: natural is supposed to be made from raw materials obtained from renewable sources, and only minor chemical changes are allowed in these raw materials. The product must also be biodegradable and its production, use and disposal must not have a negative impact on the environment.

In general, we can say that buyers are mistaken when they believe that natural substances are always completely harmless. And among them there are those that are toxic and dangerous to human health. Many of the substances that plants contain are deadly.

Of course, such dangerous compounds in natural coatings does not exist, but you should be aware that “natural” or “bio” alone does not ensure complete safety for your health. It should also be emphasized that ordinary natural finishes, compared to synthetic paints and varnishes, have lower physical and chemical properties and need to be restored more often.

Natural oils that are most often used for surface treatment are:

• linen;
• tung;
• castor;
• hydrogenated;
• hemp;

The drying time of natural, unprocessed linseed oil is very long - more than a week, so it is not convenient for practical use. Thus, a special varnish is made from it containing heat-treated linseed oil, and add driers to it to speed up curing.

The most famous natural wax is beeswax, but it is quite soft for practical use. Therefore, surface treatment waxes always include so-called carnauba wax, which increases the final hardness.

Paraffin is a synthetic product of petroleum distillation, it is also physical properties very similar to wax - but naturally it is not a natural product.

Natural wood finishes often include various natural resins, such as shellac, sandarac or rosin, as one of their ingredients.

Nitrocellulose coatings

The binder for these coatings is nitrocellulose, obtained by nitration of natural polymers - cellulose. Thanks to the quality of nitrocellulose (NC) varnishes, we are able to include them in our list of natural materials.

NC varnishes contain acetone, ethyl acetate, butyl acetate, ethanol, aromatic alcohols, and the like as solvents and thinners. Rejection physically occurs simultaneously with the volatilization of these substances. Nitrocellulose varnishes - when used on a finished surface - are often superior to more modern varnishes, but they also have a major disadvantage: poorer resistance to some solvents - such as acetone.

During its production, it is important to have a high content of volatile organic solvents and, as a result, an inadequate impact on the environment.

Polyester varnishes

Polyester (PE) varnishes were popular in the old days because their main feature is strength - (hardness, elasticity), ability to achieve glossy surfaces... But today they are little used, as they contain styrene, which is very harmful. And they are not attached to a wooden surface very well, especially on small parts.

Polyurethane varnishes

Polyurethane varnishes are the products from which water-based varnishes are made. We can find them on sale in various forms- one-component and most often two-component. These varnishes are durable, with good elasticity, good adhesion, durability, high water resistance and chemical resistance.

Unfortunately, many polyurethane varnishes may change color when exposed to ultraviolet light. As for using them for floor coverings or furniture, this is an excellent material.

One-component polyurethane varnishes contain from 20 to 30 percent dry matter and are actually melted PU prepolymer, they become the hard way absorbing moisture from the air, allowing them to react chemically with carbon dioxide.

One-component PU varnishes are universal and easy to use and should be used in thin layer(from 80 to 100 g per square meter), since otherwise the surface quality will be poor.

Polycondensation varnishes with acid binders

These varnishes are also called “acid-resistant varnishes” or “acid-resistant varnishes” in everyday speech. They contain formaldehyde resins as binders. Rejection is physicochemical, that is, it refers to the disappearance of volatile components and the polycondensation reaction.

A catalyst that speeds up a reaction is organic acid, to which this coating group is applied. These varnishes themselves are hard and brittle, so alkyd and other resins are often added to them.

Polyacrylic varnishes

The binder is polyacrylates, from which water-based varnish is made. When combined with polyurethane binders, they are also very popular as an indoor treatment.

There are many different derivatives of this material - from physically drying, which are thermoplastic to those modified compositions intended for curing with ultraviolet rays.

Alkyd varnishes

Alkyd resins are rarely used in indoor applications since they are most often applied to metals. However, alkyd binders are increasingly being used to protect wood outdoors, as well as solvent-based clear glazing.

Both internal and external cladding clapboard walls are an excellent solution for an owner who cares about the condition of his home. Interior decoration will create a cozy and healthy atmosphere in the room. The external one will protect the facade of the building from unnecessary damage.

In this article we will dwell in detail on why to treat the lining, what protective composition is best to do this, what is the application technology paint and varnish materials, and also what amount to expect when painting.

How to effectively protect a tree

How to treat the lining inside the house? This question is often asked by owners who have used wood for wood.

Today, processing lining inside the house is not a problem. You just need to choose the right one protective covering, which will be suitable for a particular room.

Some are more suitable for rooms with high humidity, others perfectly protect boards from ultraviolet rays, and some generally increase the strength of wood and prevent the risk of premature abrasion.

But also an important factor in processing is that the defense should look good on the boards. It should not distort the natural structure of the tree. On the contrary, its task is to emphasize the naturalness of the material used and blend harmoniously with the rest of the interior.

Most often, the following substances are used to protect wood:

• Antiseptic
• Bio oil
• Primer

Types of varnishes for working on wood

If we talk specifically about how to treat the lining in the house, then the choice of protective mixtures is quite large.

1. Soil

This mixture is not only a complete primer, but also an excellent bio-protective agent. Primer – antiseptic is suitable for processing both indoors and outdoors.

Moreover, the use of a primer is appropriate even on an affected tree. The primer, along with a textured coating that is designed to provide protection, will extend the life of the board and keep it neat and laid.

2. Protective and decorative

One of the main qualities of the mixture is that it gives the desired color to the wooden surface. By the way, protective and decorative coatings are an innovation in the market of paints and varnishes.

But it is very important that even when treated with such a composition, the tree structure still remains visible.

They are very convenient to use, since you do not need to use a primer first, because they already contain antiseptics. Moreover, they are resistant to fading and temperature changes.

Some types are suitable for use on damp wood. They are great for interior and exterior work.

The final coating has a soft semi-matte tone. According to the manufacturers of these products, the warranty is 8 years.

3. Scuba gear

Continuing to discuss the topic of how to treat the surface inside the house, you should definitely pay attention to water-based products. For work inside the house, professionals recommend aqualak.

Pros of using scuba tank:

1. No smell
2. Fast interlayer drying
3. It contains no organic solvents

For external work, products with water-repellent additives are suitable, which protect wood from dirt and moisture. Of course, it is not in the budget class, but it provides the owner with durability and ease of maintenance.

4. Oils

Quite often, the surface of wood is treated with oils or their combined mixtures.

Oil coating provides protection against contamination, moisture and dust, due to the fact that it penetrates deep into the structure of the tree.

An important advantage when using varnish is also that there is no solvent aroma, but you can only smell the smell of the plant on which the oil is based. Moreover, this composition is very easily tinted, with which you can get the desired shade

Tools for painting operations

We answered the question of how to treat the lining, but there was one more question: how to treat the lining inside the house?

Its importance lies in the fact that all compositions are different in consistency, so you should pay special attention to the selection of tools so that applying the protective layer is convenient and effective.

An approximate list of what is needed when applying paint and varnish mixtures:

• Napkins
• Construction tape
• Scotch Brite
• Sandpaper (#240)
• Tray for paint or varnish
• Roller
• Brushes

Whitening

This process is the first step when painting with any composition.

It involves cleaning the boards from any contaminants.

If there are difficulties with selecting bleach, then it is best to use a special stain.

After the bleaching process is completed and the lining becomes a clean canvas, you can proceed to the second stage - priming. The third stage is applying paint.

Tools needed for whitening:

• Roller
• Tassels
• Stain (bleach)
• Solvent
• Gloves
• Eye protection glasses

Video - glazing of wooden surfaces:

We paint according to the rules

If the wooden surface has already been painted several times, then before applying a fresh layer of varnish, it is necessary to evaluate the quality.

If it is still good, then you can wipe it with a 2% soda solution.

To prepare such a solution you need 10 liters of heated water and 300 grams of soda.

After treatment with soda solution, work surface should be puttied and treated with drying oil. After such a procedure, everything wooden surfaces the house will be significantly transformed.

If painting the lining inside the house is the first time, professionals advise adhering to a certain technology in this matter in order to avoid smudges and unevenness.

Paintwork products should be applied using bristle tips. It is very important that it is thin. Otherwise, a large amount of paint may become unusable. To prevent the lint from leaving a mark on the walls and ceiling being treated, it is better to treat them with a soap solution before starting painting.

Video - how to properly treat the walls inside the house:
Particular care should be taken when applying the final layer. To ensure an even coating, it is best to start applying the protective composition from the top. Hard-to-reach places, for example, frames, baseboards, and the space near radiators, are best painted with a brush that has a diameter of no more than 5 cm.

It is best to start painting the door from the paneled side.

A dry brush will help prevent paint smudges. Upward movements of the brush will remove unnecessary imperfections from the surface.

Video - painting the inside of the house:

Cost of work

The price of painting lining per square meter is approximately 280 rubles.

One square meter of the lining itself will cost the buyer approximately 320 rubles. But the cost of the boards is significantly influenced by the wood from which they are made and its grade.

Varnish for treating wood can be bought for approximately 260 rubles per liter.

We hope that this article will help every owner paint the lining with high quality, as well as choose the right materials. Good luck with your work.

One of the most popular types of wooden finishing materials is lining. It has a different profile, due to which the surface has different type- from a smooth wall with small grooves, to waves of different sizes. It’s just that wooden walls do not fit into all interiors, so there is often a need to paint the lining indoors - at home or in the country.

How to treat lining inside a house

In general, many people believe that it is better not to treat the lining indoors with anything. Maybe so, but not in every climate and room it will retain its original appearance for a long time. If the level of ventilation is insufficient, the wood may turn blue; if it is exposed to the sun, it becomes dark gray.

You can only fight blueness biological means- chlorine or active oxygen, and then definitely impregnate with protective compounds, and maybe even paint. It is a little easier with grayed wood: by removing the top layer by sanding you will again get beautiful colour, but without UV protection it won’t last long either. That’s why they decide to paint the lining inside the house or cottage.

One more point: not everyone likes wood in the interior. It's just that sometimes people get tired of looking at her. I just want a smooth, colored surface. This also happens, and often. In this case, look for opaque paint. Select characteristic effects as desired.

The inside of the lining is painted with opaque paints also because wood in its natural color is not compatible with all styles. But sometimes you want high-tech, for example. In this case, paint with metal particles or mother-of-pearl (for example, Lignovit Platin) is suitable.

All compositions for protecting wood can be fairly roughly divided into six main groups:

1. Protective compounds. Available for exterior and interior use. Compositions for external use additionally include ultraviolet protection, which prevents or slows down the process of photoaging of wood - discoloration to gray. So if you need impregnation for the lining on the balcony, and it faces south or east, you need a composition for external work. Just note that some of them turn the surface pink or green - this is the result of a chemical reaction.

   

2. Tinting compounds or stains. They do not paint over the texture of the wood, but give it some kind of shade. At the same time, a film is not created on the surface, the wood does not lose its properties - it remains vapor-permeable. Tinting compositions contain pigment and can be lightly or heavily pigmented. If you want to have a surface with a pronounced wood structure, take a slightly pigmented composition. You may need a lot of layers, but you can control the degree of “shading” of the wood.

   

3. Lucky. Today, water-based varnishes or aqualacs are more popular for lining walls or ceilings. They can be matte, semi-matte or glossy. Many people have the opportunity to add color and change the color at the same time. Unlike traditional varnishes, water-based varnishes do not close pores - the film on the surface remains vapor-permeable, but protects against dirt absorption. Many manufacturers add UV filters and bactericidal components. Such paints and varnishes are good for balconies or in unheated rooms with periodic visits - in dachas and bathhouses.

   

   The varnish can be glossy, matte or semi-matte, or it can give color - pigmented

4. Paints. This group includes compounds that create a dense film on the surface, through which the structure of the wood is not visible. The group is extensive, with different properties and price range - from traditional oil to latex and acrylate enamel.
5. Wood oils. Some are transparent and some have pigment. Unlike varnishes, they do not create a dense film on the surface, but are absorbed into the fibers. Good compositions act similarly varnish coating, protecting against abrasion and dirt absorption. Only oils do not have a bright glossy shine - a matte or slightly shiny surface, like silk. This is a great way to preserve wood. Using specific application techniques, pigmented wood oils can highlight the texture (see below).

   

6. Wax-based compositions. There are three types of wax: solid, liquid and water. Before use, hard wax is heated to liquid state, liquid and water (wax glaze) are ready for use. Wax protection is traditional and very effective, and new technologies make the process much easier. The disadvantage of wax is that it is quite difficult to apply evenly, but it fits well on a pre-primed surface.

This division is arbitrary: there are many mixed compounds that can be classified into at least two groups. So there are impregnations that can be tinted, and there are paints with protective properties. The difference is in the effectiveness of the protection. Impregnations primarily protect the wood, and imparting color is a secondary task. With paints it's the other way around. Their main task is to create a beautiful coating, and protection is a concomitant effect. If you need immediately and good protection And high-quality coating, take the impregnation without tinting, and after drying, apply paint.

Another example of a mixed composition is oils with wax. These compositions combine the properties of both oils and wax, due to which the wood retains its appearance for a longer time.

The question of which group to give preference is up to everyone to decide for themselves. Different means solve various tasks and it is important to choose the right properties that you need first.

How to properly paint the inside of the lining: technology

To paint lining in “dry” rooms inside the house, you can use any type of paint. Here you simply decide on the requirements for decorative appearance surfaces. If the lining is dry, it can not be impregnated with protective compounds, or you can choose paint/varnish/wax with appropriate additives. You can paint it only on one side, leaving the back side untreated.

If the lining will be used in wet or unheated rooms, on the balcony, you must first soak it well with protective compounds on all sides, maybe twice. Only after the impregnation has dried can it be painted, varnished, in general, given decorative properties. Another point: when installing the lining on a wall or ceiling, it has to be cut into pieces. Places of cuts in damp rooms must also be coated with the composition. It is not necessary to wait until it dries, but it is necessary to process it.

There is one very important nuance, which many amateur decorators overlook. If you want to get the lining painted professional level, you need to process each board separately: sand it, paint it, dry it, and only then assemble the surface from the already painted lining. That is, mount already fully processed boards on the wall or ceiling. Only with this approach will the surface of the lining have the same color from any point.

It’s difficult to paint the entire surface of a clapboard wall well

If you paint an already assembled surface, unpainted areas remain in the grooves and recesses, making it difficult to sand large areas. Perfect flat surface definitely won't get it. The quality of finishing in this option is not above average. Paint finished surface acceptable if you are renewing the paint job. This must be done at different intervals, depending on the operating conditions and the properties of the paintwork material.

Correctly, the painting technology looks like this.

There can be many layers: it depends on the hiding power of the paint and on what effect you want to get. But in any case, one rule remains: there should be little composition on the brush. The exception is impregnation or primer. They are applied with a well-moistened brush, but only those without pigment. When applying pigmented protective compounds paint rules apply - minimum required amount The composition shades well.

Sometimes, even with careful rubbing of the paint, stains are clearly visible. This is not a bad paint, but the properties of wood: in some places the pores absorb better, in others worse. In order to achieve an even color in this case, the surface is first primed. You can use any wood primer or colorless matte varnish (can be water-based). After drying, the surface is sanded (yep, again) and then the required number of layers of paint are applied. Only in this case, after the first layer of paintwork, grinding is rarely required, and if necessary, then in some places, more often on a tenon or groove.

Watch the video to see how to evenly apply glaze, oil or wax.

If furniture quality painting is required, there are even more layers: first a stain is applied, then two layers of primer. After drying, the surface is sanded until the surface is completely matte, first with grain 280, then 320, after removing the dust, a finishing layer is applied - varnish. An example of such work is in the video.

Painting wood while maintaining texture

A pronounced wood pattern can be achieved using glaze, pigmented oil or wax. These compounds apply quite tightly, almost painting over the structure of the wood fibers. Any of the compositions described above can be applied with a brush or roller.

When applying paintwork materials, take very little, first applying them in fragments along the entire length of the lining. Then, using a brush or roller, the applied strokes are shaded over the entire surface. After leaving them to absorb for 5-10 minutes, to reveal the texture, take a soft, lint-free cloth and remove most of the oil. As a result, the pattern appears much brighter than in its original state: the grooves retain large quantity There is almost no pigmented product left on the protruding parts. The result is bright pronounced texture. This technique is also called brushing or texturing the lining. In interiors, wood processed in this way looks very decorative: both on the walls and on the ceiling.

The process can be observed in the video. Three samples were painted: two with the same oil with pigment, one with colorless. 5 minutes after painting, one of the pigmented blanks is wiped to reveal the design. To preserve the wood after the pigment has dried (24 hours or more, read on the packaging), the lining is coated with two layers of colorless oil (glaze, wax). In areas of intensive use, you can also coat it with matte varnish.

How to paint lining like bleached oak

It is often necessary to paint wood White color, but so that the veins are visible. They also say to create the effect of bleached oak. There are several ways:

It’s difficult to say which composition to choose - you need to try. It is advisable to paint the lining with several compositions and compare the results. Effect when used different means slightly different, but still very dependent on the wood. The reviews are also very different - some whitened with tinting, others with oil. Soils are rarely used for these purposes, but mainly because not everyone knows their properties.

Secrets of decorative wood staining: techniques and tricks

City dwellers want to preserve the natural color of wood as much as possible. For those for whom wood in the house is a boring everyday thing, paint the interior lining in some kind of unusual color. Modern coatings allow you to achieve different effects. For example, textured or brushed lining, but in two colors. This technique is often used.

Brushed lining in two colors is an excellent choice for decorating walls

The trick is to apply two layers of different colors. The first layer is a dark color, the second is a light or brighter color. After playing with colors and the order of their application, you can create your own version. Watch the video - how to get lining brushed in two colors.

Painting in two colors may not be the same. You can make the recesses a darker color, and only slightly tint the face (front part) or do everything exactly the opposite. The result is a striped wall made of clapboard - the effect of a slatted wall.

How to paint lining inside a house: ideas

Painting techniques and methods are great, but how? Just. There are quite a few interesting options. The designers' latest finds are a clapboard wall in a room with smooth walls. It looks creative and interesting. And most often such a wall is made using the brushing technique.

An interesting effect is achieved by combining the fittings different thicknesses— in the photo, thin boards are inserted between wide boards. Moreover, they are painted in different shades one color. The combination turns out interesting and fresh.

Lining is not necessarily just a flat board with small grooves on one side, which is also called eurolining. There are different profiles, including those with waves and troughs. From them you can assemble interesting walls, the relief of which is emphasized by painting.

You can assemble interesting reliefs from linings of different profiles. To make it look more interesting, highlight the reliefs or whiten them

As usual, in the interior, a lot depends on the light. Several non-standardly designed lamps - long translucent strips behind which lamps are hidden, installed in the middle of the ceiling - and the interior is completely transformed. This design can be used to decorate rooms for young people, creative rooms, etc.

You can play not only with light, but also with color: in the lighting zone, paint the lining in a lighter color, thus emphasizing this zone.

If you have good drawing skills, you can paint the lining. Just don’t forget to then cover the entire painting with colorless oil or varnish to preserve it longer. This technique can be used when

Rigidly defined clapboard panels look great in the living room and hallway. In the same vein, you can decorate the wall in the dining area in the kitchen. Only its quality and coloring must be perfect.

The honey shade of the lining is repeated on the ceiling

Treatment for a rustic-style interior can be deliberately imperfect. These are rooms with a masculine character.

The rustic style will appeal to men. In this case, painting the lining using the brushing technique is the norm. Moreover, the colors are chosen dark

As if in contrast - light walls. The lining is whitewashed and the beams are painted dark. Despite traditional materials, used for centuries, the look of such a room is modern and stylish.

An excellent combination is light walls with the effect of bleached oak and dark massive beams. It's practically a win-win option.

Lining is also used in the decoration of bathrooms. Impregnation here needs to be given maximum attention, but if it is done at the proper level, impregnation is protected from moisture, then there should be no problems. And the interior, you see, is very interesting - warm wood tones combined with bright marble are a great move.

Lining is also used for. You just need to fill it horizontally - this way you can expand the small space. And it's better like this small area Light colors look good, maybe with a dark edging.

Ceiling - lining, painted with light stain

When making repairs, it is not enough to cover the walls in residential premises, loggias, bathhouses (steam room and dressing room) with clapboard. The beautiful appearance will not please you for long and after a while the wood will darken and begin to deteriorate. Only a special coating for wood will help to avoid damage by insects, rotting, and the harmful effects of high temperatures.

All compositions are divided into decorative and protective. The first include:

• acrylate paint;
• oil;
• alkyd varnish;
• opaque enamel;
• decorative glaze;
• stain;
• acrylic aqualak.

The group of protective agents is limited to impregnations and primers. Their main task is protection from insects, rotting, pollution, as well as drying out and the appearance of fungus. They do not perform any other functions; they are completely absorbed without leaving any traces.

Manufacturers of impregnations and varnishes

1. Finncolor offers matte and semi-gloss varnish for wooden lining on an acrylate base (diluted with water). The compositions are used inside dry rooms to cover walls and ceilings; they are not recommended for floors or furniture. Slow down the processes of wood destruction, protect against dirt, mold and mildew. Apply with a brush, spray, or can be tinted. Consumption - from 1 liter per 5 m2 to 1 liter per 12 m2, depends on the surface (whether it is being processed for the first time) and the number of layers that will be applied. Packaging - 9 liters, cost - about 2000 rubles.

2. Komandor produces varnishes for different customer tastes: matte, semi-matte, glossy and semi-gloss. They all have similar characteristics: safe for use in children's and medical institutions, without a pungent odor. After coating, the surface acquires water- and dirt-repellent properties. Packing is possible in 0.9, 2.7, 9 l. Consumption – from 8 to 12 m2 per 1 liter. Price – about 300 rubles.

3. Eurotex-sauna – for baths, steam rooms and dressing rooms. It contains wax, which creates a protective film on the surface of the wood. Withstands exposure to steam, high temperatures, chemical treatment detergents. Can be purchased in containers from 1 to 10 liters. The average cost (for 2.5 liters) is 450 rubles. This amount should be enough for 35 m2.

4. Belinka is known for its paints: thin-layer and colorless Azure. The absence of biocides allows for use in the home. The advantages are safety for health, steam resistance, preservation protective functions at any temperature. They have no tint and give the eurolining only a matte shine. 1 liter is enough when applying 3 layers per 10-12 m2. Packaged in cans of 1, 2.5, 5 and 10 liters. Approximate prices are about 600 rubles. Water glaze for saunas or baths is also available for sale, the price of which does not exceed 500.

5. Pinotex is known for its exterior and interior wood coating products. The Interior line is created for living rooms, kitchens, baths. Impregnation is a transparent liquid that can be easily used to treat lining, painted or not previously painted. Doesn't have chemical smell, resistant to damage, gives a well-groomed appearance. Components include light-resistant pigments, water and alkyd resins. Available in tin cans of 1, 3 and 10 liters. Consumption – from 8 to 16 m2 per 1 liter. The cost is about 600 rubles.

6. Kompozit offers varnish for interior work. Water-based, odorless, quick-drying, suitable for decorating walls and ceilings, chipboard, fiberboard and MDF. Ready for use, has no color, only emphasizes the design, tinting is possible. Consumption: from 8 to 12 m2 per 1 liter. You can buy cans of 1, 3, 10 liters for 250-2000 rubles.

7. The following are available for sale from Colorex:

• Panelac is a semi-matte liquid that is used to treat new wood (as a primer), as well as previously finished eurolining (finishing stage). It is used not only for wall and ceiling panels, but also for covering furniture. Performs the function of protection against changes in shade, mechanical damage (the wood becomes hard and resistant to the use of chemicals). Apply by roller, brush, spray, tinting is possible. Packing – 0.9 l (720 rubles), 2.7 (1800), 9 (5100). Consumption – from 8 to 14 m2 per 1 liter.
• Supisauna is a colorless acrylic matte water-based varnish that is easy to clean. For wet rooms: loggias, dressing rooms, steam rooms. The main goal is to prevent the lining in the bathhouse from darkening and rotting. Packaging and consumption correspond previous version. The price is lower - from 600 to 4000 rubles.

Tips for choosing

1. Some domestic producers(Finncolor Rapan Parquet, Kompozit Aqua Imperior) are released quality products, which can compete with foreign ones. But the cost will be more affordable compared to imported goods.

2. For application inside the house, be sure to choose a product without odor or toxic additives. A water-based varnish would be best. It is hypoallergenic, environmentally friendly, has a wide spectrum of action with wooden materials, and is easy to use.

3. For wood in the bath you need special compounds. You cannot cover eurolining with ordinary paint or varnish - they do not allow it to “breathe”, which provokes rotting.

4. Transparent water-based varnish is considered the most affordable. Alkyd will be more expensive and will be more difficult to work with. Inside a living space, it is better to choose the first option, and leave the second option for surfaces subject to mechanical damage.

5. The most popular paint for wood is considered a translucent topcoat. Pros: preservation of texture, acquisition of a single color. Disadvantage: persistent odor, so it is better to process in the warm season to be able to ventilate the room. The most expensive option will be with wax; it will protect the walls from moisture better than all analogues.

6. For previously painted wood, you need to choose a composition, taking into account its compatibility with what has already been applied. Impregnations, primers, and varnishes can interact detrimentally with each other, causing harm.

7. For some owners, it doesn’t matter which varnish is best to cover the lining, because they are satisfied with the wood without treatment. After some time it will darken, so you should choose a semi-matte transparent varnish.

Thanks to the properties of paint, you can change the color into zones and visually enlarge the room. For the little ones, dark rooms It is better to use light or transparent colors. The disadvantage of choosing a stain is that the surface must be perfectly smooth, without knots.