Which annuals need to be pinched. Freesia: Southern beauty in the garden. Why is tagetes pinched?

As a rule, it is believed that a plant should not lose its leaves, but the opinion of experienced gardeners is that sometimes this is not just useful, but a necessity.

If you decide to do seating and plan to get good harvest, you should definitely familiarize yourself with pinching cucumbers.

What is pinching and why do it?

Pinching is an agrotechnical procedure carried out using fingers (hence the name pinching) and consists of tearing off the top of a plant, in our case, cucumbers. The need for its implementation is determined by the fact that it leads to an increase in the yield of cucumbers, as well as correct formation required plant shape.

Increasing the harvest

A peculiarity of the structure of the cucumber stem is that it simultaneously contains male and female flowers, with the female ones being fruitful, and the male ones mostly barren flowers. The term “empty flower” is used for a reason and combines two words – empty flowering, i.e. - that which does not bear fruit. If it is not removed, the stem can grow up to a meter in length, but still will not bear fruit. The main stem of cucumbers belongs to the male sex, and its side branches belong to the female sex. Thus, if you want to increase the fruitfulness of cucumbers, you need to pinch the main stem of each bush in the garden, thereby provoking the growth of fruitful side shoots. In this case, it is better not to touch the leaves at all; pinching is done only on the main stem.

Forming the form

In addition to increasing the fruitfulness of cucumbers, pinching helps shape the shape of the plant. This is necessary if growing conditions require compactness. For example, when breeding in a greenhouse or if you have a dedicated cucumber plant in your garden small area soil, pinching solves the problem of excessive darkening, as well as thinning vegetation, thereby improving air movement in the greenhouse. Experienced gardeners It is advised not to plant cucumbers too thickly, as this can have a detrimental effect on the yield.

Restrictions on pinching can only be caused by excessive tearing of foliage; we especially draw your attention to the fact that it is not recommended to tear off the so-called “whiskers”.

Pinching must be done after five or six leaves appear on the trunk, after which it is recommended to remove the top of the main stem, and it is also advisable to at the same time tear off the yellow flowers that bloom at the bottom, as well as other weakly formed shoots. Thus, on the bush we leave 5-6 leaves that have feminine principles, and the top of the plant will take the form of an inverted triangle. After pinching, not even two weeks will pass before the first flowers appear on the side branches, which will be pollinated by bees and bring you a full harvest of cucumbers.

Of course, it is not necessary to pinch directly with your fingers; you can use small garden shears.

One of the most interesting groups plants are ampelous. The name comes from the German “ampel” - “hanging vase”. Thus, plants with hanging shoots are called ampelous. A feature of all hanging plants is increased shoot formation. At proper care Given their location, they grow an amazing cascade of shoots over the course of a season, so we can talk about vertical gardening.

Their range today is very extensive. These are petunia, begonia, pelargonium and many others. Some of them are more capricious, some less. Most of the hanging ones are used as flyers.

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Flyers mainly reproduce from seeds. Ampelous ones sold in stores are propagated by cuttings. What plants can be trimmed at home? Waller's balsam, bidens and lobelia do not take cuttings very well. Lobelia is grown from seeds.

And now more specifically about some hanging plants that are used for landscaping and decorating balconies and terraces.

Bidens

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It is interesting due to its foliage, which enlivens any composition. Decorative - deciduous. Very unpretentious: great strength growth. If some plant suddenly “fell out”, it will always take over this space.

Plectrankus - the culture takes root quite easily at home. In each axil of the plectrancus leaf there is a dormant bud, ready to grow. Rooting is performed as follows: cut a shoot about 10 cm long. The upper undeveloped part of the shoot is removed very carefully so as not to damage the lateral shoots from the buds. Next they trim bottom part, it is desirable that the cut is close to the internode; the leaves are removed. When rooting, use sand, preferably perlite. Make a slight depression in the perlite, insert the cutting into it and lightly squeeze it. Place a plastic bag on top of the pot to increase humidity. Every day the bag is removed and aired. Rooting lasts 10 days.

There are several types of hanging ones that are absolutely indispensable for creating a composition. This is lysimachia monetalis, commonly called loosestrife.

Lysimachia monetata

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This is beautiful indoor plant and in any garden - a wintering plant. Decorative - deciduous. Shade-tolerant. Belongs to the category of “viviparous” plants. That is, on the leaves, in the places where the leaf blade comes into contact with the petiole, a so-called brood bud is formed. “A mother hen with chicks,” the English say. Bent down to the ground under the weight of numerous brood buds, they take root and a colony of plants is formed. Propagates easily. One leaf is enough to create a carpet on the site. The leaves have the smell of fresh cucumbers.

It is believed that decorative deciduous hanging plants are the future, as they always support beautiful flowering plants.

Petunia

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Now a variety of petunia has appeared - patunia. It differs from ordinary petunia in that this plant does not require pinching and branches naturally. The only condition for good growth- constant feeding - 0.5 caps per 1 liter of water.

Pelargonium ampelous or “falling” geranium

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At first glance, it looks like grass - small white flowers. There are varieties of different colors: blue, white, pink, purple. They also differ in flower size. It is good because it is very unpretentious, it colors any composition, makes it airy, light, in the form of cascades. Bacopa is prone to self-purification, that is, the flowers, as they fade, dry out and, without losing their decorative properties, the plants fall off. Therefore, the plant is decorative throughout the season.

Fuchsia ampelous

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Belongs to the bellflower family. “Bride and Groom” is what the people call him. Thin and creeping stems are about 25 cm long. Flowering is long-lasting. Scattering white, purple or blue star flowers, it pleases the eye until autumn. Long and abundant flowering is ensured by timely removal of faded flower stalks. Loves partial shade and loose, moist soil. Constant watering is required.

Scaevola is pleasant

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A plant from the genus Convolvulaceae. Forms charming cascades, creating cozy corners. One of the “longest” ampelous ones. Shoots can reach 3 m. Universal, does not require pinching. Will grow anywhere in the garden.

Dichondra

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A plant that adores sunbathing, but requires constant watering. Does not require pinching. Looks very gentle in compositions. Prefers light sandy soil.

Ampelous nasturtium

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In the warm climate of South America, where nasturtium comes from, these plants are often grown as perennials, producing lush heads of flowers almost all year round. But neither the powerful stems nor the fleshy roots can survive Russian winters.

Therefore, the crop is well known to domestic gardeners as a spectacular annual that delights with flowering almost throughout the summer. The first buds, planting of which with seeds or seedlings is not so difficult even for a novice gardener, appear in mid-June or July, and the last flowers appear under the wave of autumn frosts.

In order for the plant to produce green mass earlier and enter the flowering season, it is necessary:

• choose the right planting site for nasturtium;
• provide the seedlings with proper care, including watering and fertilizing;
• protect stems, flowers and leaves from pests and diseases.

Much depends on the planting material.

Common types of nasturtium are propagated by seeds, which ripen in temperate climates and can be used for sowing the following season.

Place for planting nasturtium in the garden

Both bush and climbing forms of nasturtium prefer light, well-aerated soils with moderate nutrients and slight acidity. Nasturtium in the garden, planted on depleted soils, is easily distinguished by elongated internodes, small leaves and flower corollas.

The high density of soil rich in organic matter can play a bad joke on the grower. Not only will the seeds have serious difficulty germinating, but young plant will begin to “fatten”, producing a mass of foliage rather than flowers. If the soil with a high clay content or black soil is also excessively moistened, the nasturtium roots quickly rot and the plant dies.

The best choice of site for planting nasturtium is sandy loam or loam with good drainage, regular watering and fertilizing, if necessary.

There is a well-known saying about “keep your feet warm and your head cold.” With nasturtium it's the opposite. With all the love of this culture for warmth and light, it is important to choose a place so that the roots of the plant are shaded. But foliage and flowers exposed to the sun will be able to show their full potential, especially if they are protected from the wind and possible frosts.

A trellis, a garden fence or a wall of a garden building can serve as a support for climbing and climbing species of nasturtium. Bush forms are good in flower beds, and hanging forms are good in hanging planters or decorative flowerpots.

Methods for planting nasturtium

There are three main ways to plant and grow nasturtiums:

• Obtaining nasturtium from seeds simplifies the process of plant acclimatization; seedlings take root in heated soil without problems and grow actively.
• The seedling method of planting the crop makes it possible to bring flowering closer and last longer, but there is a risk of losing seedlings after being transferred to the soil.
• Using cuttings, which quickly take root in damp sand or water and are ready for planting in a permanent place in the garden. This method is indispensable when it is not possible to obtain seeds of an exotic species or a new variety.

In addition, some types of nasturtium form tubers suitable for winter storage at temperatures close to zero and spring planting in the ground.

Growing nasturtium from seeds

Most types of cultivated nasturtium can be grown from seeds, bypassing the seedling stage. This method saves a lot of time and effort. Nasturtium, the cultivation and care of which begins from seeds, initially develops into open ground and doesn't get sick. The only negative is that you will only be able to see blooming nasturtiums in the garden by mid-summer.

And sometimes gardeners complain that the seeds do not want to hatch at all. This may happen due to:

• low quality or immaturity of the seeds themselves;
• too cold soil at the time of planting nasturtium;
• excess moisture in the soil;
• strong seed penetration;
• high soil density in the place chosen for nasturtium.

To avoid these troubles, before sowing, the seeds are dipped in water at 40 to 50 °C for a quarter of an hour and then soaked for another day. This activates the sprout and softens the dense surface peel.

Nasturtium is planted in May, only in sufficiently warm soil. Two or three seeds are placed in holes located at a distance of 20–30 cm to a depth of 2 cm.

Nasturtium seedlings do not tolerate cold weather and during frosts need protection with the help of shelters made of film or non-woven material. The same technique as watering warm water, will make plants develop faster.

Planting nasturtium seedlings for early flowering

The main danger of the seedling method of growing nasturtium is the risk of damage to the rather succulent and brittle roots of the plant, so the seeds are sown in separate containers to avoid picking and dumping into the ground along with the earthen lump.

It’s even better if you use nasturtiums or pots for planting.

• Sowing in April or early May is done to a depth of not only 2 cm, 2-3 seeds per hole.
• Plantings need to ensure an air temperature of about +22 °C.
• When the shoots appear after two weeks, the temperature is reduced slightly, to +18 °C, and good lighting is provided for the sprouts.

You can move plants into the garden if the threat of frost has passed. Most often this happens by mid-May, less often in June. If after planting the nasturtium is exposed to bad weather or cool nights, it is better to protect the plantation with covering material.

And the gardener can take the first photos of nasturtium flowers a month or a month and a half after planting the seedlings in the ground. Flowering will end only with the onset of persistent cold weather.

Growing and caring for nasturtiums during the summer

Caring for nasturtiums during the summer months is not difficult at all. The plant requires only regular but moderate watering and removal of weeds in the root zone. If you take care of mulching the loosened soil in advance, then both mandatory measures are greatly simplified and are required less frequently.

The mode and method of watering for nasturtiums is chosen in such a way that the moisture does not stagnate and does not remain on the greenery during the hottest part of the day. Otherwise, instead of being beneficial, watering may lead to rotting of the roots and sunburn foliage and flowers.

Lack of water when growing and caring for nasturtium causes disproportionate elongation and weakening of the stems, shredding and yellowing of the leaves, and massive shedding of flowers and buds. You can support a weakened plant mineral fertilizer, as well as regular pruning of old and dry stems, removal withered leaves and corollas.

If signs of diseases or traces of pests are found on nasturtium, the damaged parts of the plant are removed and destroyed, and the crown is treated with insecticides or other preparations.

Collection of nasturtium seeds in the garden

Many types of nasturtium common in Russia, except for foreign ones, produce seeds suitable for planting. It is not at all difficult to collect the fruits with three seeds formed at the site of the flower calyx under the thick folded skin.

If you look at nasturtiums and photos of flowers, you will notice how, as they increase in size, the fruits change color from bright green to pale. This is the process of ripening, and then the seeds, ready for germination, with dried skin, fall off and remain viable for at least four years.

When to collect nasturtium seeds to prevent their unauthorized dispersal? Indeed, unlike stems and leaves, nasturtium seeds are not afraid of frost and will certainly begin to grow even in the fall, but the sprouts will not be able to overwinter.

The average period of fruit ripening on cultivated species is 40 days after the appearance of the flower. When collecting, they are guided by this period. If the approaching frosts force you to pick the still green seeds, they can be forced to ripen by drying and stirring at room temperature for 1–2 months.

Amazing nasturtium flower - video

You can sow nasturtium on the balcony, in patio boxes, decorate a pergola with it, or simply place it in a mixborder in a flowerbed. The seeds ripen well and remain viable for up to 4 years.

To grow nasturtium you will need fertile soil, good sunlight and frost protection. So let’s try to figure out how to implement these three factors.

Perhaps the most dangerous thing in our conditions is the cold. You can sow nasturtium only when the danger of the seedlings being exposed to May frosts has passed. Plants, especially young ones, die even with a short drop in temperature to 0 degrees. To do this, sowing in the ground in conditions, for example, the Moscow region, should be done no earlier than the last ten days of May, or rather the end of it. Such plants will bloom only in mid-summer. I really want to see the flowers early! In this case when sowing in the ground need to shed some ground hot water, sow seeds in a warm place and cover the crops non-woven material, and at night you can also put some film on top. This will allow you to move the crops forward 2-3 weeks. Naturally, you only need to water with heated water, but under no circumstances overwater it, and it will be possible to finally open the plants only in the middle of the first ten days of June. But by then they will already be quite large. The advantage of such crops is the plants immediately grow in their permanent place and will not get sick, which often happens with seedlings, especially if the lump is destroyed during handling.

Growing seedlings also requires certain subtleties. Nasturtium has a relatively weak root system and a large leaf surface. Therefore, any injury to the roots is painful. Therefore, it is better to grow seedlings in separate containers, so that you don’t have to transfer them to larger pots. When sowing in relatively small pots, I mix hydrogel into the soil. This allows you to protect the lump from drying out, especially at the final stage of cultivation in May, when the leaves evaporate quite quickly all the moisture received during watering. As a substrate, you can take a purchased mixture for flower seedlings, or you can mix peat, sand and leaf soil yourself. You can simply sow seeds in biocontainers.

Nasturtium Type Top

You need to place the seedlings on the brightest windowsill or on a glazed loggia. If you grow seedlings in the country, you can put pots of nasturtium in the greenhouse. With a lack of light, it stretches very much and after that it gets sick when planted and does not bloom for a long time..

Seedlings are planted after June 5-10, depending on the weather. The distance between plants is 20-25 cm, depending on the variety. Seeds are sown to a depth of 2-3 cm, 2 pieces at the same distance. If the nights are cold, then until the seedlings take root, you can cover the plants in the dark with agrill or other covering material.

Care consists of weeding and fertilizing. For abundant flowering, you should periodically add superphosphate diluted in water. It, of course, dissolves rather poorly, but in this liquid form it is more accessible to plants. 1-2 times a month you can spray the plants with a urea solution at the rate of 1 Matchbox per 10-liter bucket or use humates. Fertilizing with nitrogen will make the plants powerful, the leaves large and accelerate growth.

Remove faded flowers and damaged or diseased plants throughout the season.

You can plant nasturtium not only in flower beds, but also in garden beds.The smell of nasturtium leaves repels aphids and whiteflies. In addition, this plant, especially with heavy watering, is damaged by cabbage white caterpillars. English gardeners advise planting large nasturtium in the garden next to cabbage. Then the cabbage pests will first of all attack the nasturtium, not paying attention to the heads of cabbage. At the same time, nasturtium, like marigolds, is a good nematicidal plant, that is, it expels nematodes from the soil. For the non-chernozem zone this is not relevant, but for the south it is a very, very painful problem.

Few people nowadays remember that large nasturtium, and to some extent small nasturtium, have taken root in Europe as medicinal and spice crops. In its homeland in South America, nasturtium is used for almost 99 diseases, just like we use St. John's wort. And European medicine has long appreciated it. In Germany, this plant has a very favorable conclusion from Commission E, which decides whether the plant should be a medicinal plant in this country or not (they even banned the mother and stepmother). Studies have shown that nasturtium mustard oils are active against both gram-positive and gram-negative bacteria - mycobacterium tuberculosis, staphylococci, pseudomonas, proteus, and are also active against some strains of Candida albicans.

Almost all parts of the plant can be used to promote health.

One of the main active ingredients are derivatives of benzyl mustard compounds, in particular glucotropeolin (about 0.1%). Chemical studies have shown that the leaves are rich in ascorbic acid and carotenoids. Per 100 g of fresh plant there is up to 285 mg of vitamin C, and, for example, in lemon there is only 60-65 mg per 100 g of raw product. In addition, it contains polyphenols and low molecular weight phenols, in particular chlorogenic acid, as well as flavonoids (isoquercetin and quercetin glycoside). Flowers contain carotenoids and anthocyanidins.

In addition, nasturtium, especially fresh, contains a large number of sulfur, which has preventive effect in sclerosis and other diseases of the “third age” ( This is how the delicate French call old age). The substance tropeolin has been isolated from the plant, which helps with heart failure associated with atherosclerosis. In an experiment, this biologically active compound relieved an attack of angina after 2-3 minutes.

In addition, both flowers and leaves contain vitamins B1, B2, iodine, potassium, iron, phosphorus salts. Nasturtium contains selenium, which prevents the development of diseases associated with lipid peroxidation, that is, all those diseases that are associated with stress and poor ecology.

The whole plant, and especially the volatile compounds it contains, have a detrimental effect on pathogenic microorganisms and stimulates protective functions body, and also improves metabolic processes. Therefore, German herbalists often use it for influenza, both to treat the disease and as a prophylactic. Nasturtium is recommended for use for anemia.

It is especially effective in cases of deficiency of vitamins C and A. It is used for skin diseases, to strengthen hair, etc. The leaves are used as a vitamin, anti-cold remedy, for metabolic disorders, for kidney and cholelithiasis. They are usually harvested in the first half of summer, at which time they contain the maximum amount of biologically active substances. It is advisable to dry them quickly and always in the shade. It is not recommended to dry nasturtium raw materials when high temperature. In this case, the essential oil completely evaporates. Even with proper drying, it does not last very well. Namely, its sulfur-containing components fight atherosclerosis.

An infusion of leaves is prepared as follows: 1 tablespoon of dry raw material per glass of boiling water is infused for 20-30 minutes and drunk in 3 doses during the day. This remedy can be used as a vitamin, anti-cold and anti-sclerotic.

In German folk medicine, an alcoholic tincture of nasturtium and nettle leaves is used to rub into the scalp for hair loss. To do this, take equal parts of fresh nettle leaves and nasturtium herb, pass through a meat grinder, pour in an equal volume of alcohol, leave for 2 weeks in dark place. The finished tincture is rubbed into the scalp, after diluting with water.

An infusion of flowers is prepared in the same proportions and is used, as a rule, for diseases of the cardiovascular system.

For infantile thrush, a folk remedy for rinsing the mouth is a decoction of nasturtium flowers with honey.

An alcoholic tincture of the leaves (1 part fresh leaves and 1 part vodka) is taken as a blood purifier, 1 teaspoon 3 times a day for boils, pimples and some skin diseases.

You can also try a more exotic recipe from French medicine. Take a liter jar, fill it to the top with fresh nasturtium leaves and pour dry white wine. Close the lid and leave for 2 weeks in the dark at room temperature. Naturally, it is better to steam sterilize the jar and lid. Then strain the contents of the jar and take 1 teaspoon 3 times a day before meals to lift vitality body. The loving inhabitants of France used the same wine as an aphrodisiac (a drug that enhances sexual desire). The infusion should be stored in the refrigerator in a sealed glass container.

French herbalists for osteoporosis The following recipe is recommended: 30 g of dry herb, pour 1 liter of boiling water, leave for 10 minutes, strain and drink 150 ml 3-4 times a day.

And again, the French herbalist of the beginning of the last century, A. Leclerc, prescribed nasturtium for bronchitis and emphysema, noting its expectorant properties.

In Germany, there is currently a craze for freshly squeezed juices from medicinal plants, including nasturtiums. The daily dose is 30 ml, that is, 1 tablespoon 3 times a day. Considered very effective this remedy for chronic cystitis and bronchitis, as well as influenza. As a local irritant, this The juice can be applied to sprains, myositis and even radiculitis. The sensation is reminiscent of a pepper patch, only weaker. It is recommended to rub in externally juice into the scalp for hair loss. This helps improve blood circulation and thereby nutrition of the bulbs.

Contraindications: Stomach ulcer and duodenum, inflammatory kidney diseases, and is also not recommended for use in children and adolescents. When taken, it can cause irritation of the gastrointestinal mucosa; when used externally, contact dermatitis and allergic reactions similar to the effects of nettle.

Nasturtium seeds are used mainly as laxative: 0.6 g of crushed seeds with a spoon of honey before dinner. Therefore, recommendations on the Internet to use them for colds and quite large quantities and for a long time cause some confusion.

And in cooking this plant is simply necessary. A few seeds will add a pleasant piquancy to salads, pickled buds will replace capers, and a few leaves in a green salad will enrich it with vitamin C. Salads can be made from any vegetables, with or without a boiled egg. These salads are dressed vegetable oil or sour cream.

In addition, it is extremely responsive to watering. Nasturtium will survive drought, but the leaves and flowers will be smaller. Seeds remain viable for 4-5 years. And until the very frost, the capuchin will delight the eye and maintain your precious health.

Plants look good cut and last for about 5 days. At the same time, they release phytoncides and purify indoor air.

Nasturtium capers

Collect unopened buds, wash them, and place them in jars. It is better to take small containers. For example, jars from baby food- they close hermetically and are convenient to use. Pour boiling marinade over the buds and close the jars. For the marinade you will need for 1 liter of water: 50 g of coarse salt, 100 g of apple cider vinegar and, if desired, 100-200 g of granulated sugar. The resulting spice can be added to pizza, roasts, stews and vegetables.

Nasturtium (Tropaeolum) is herbaceous plant, belonging to the Nasturtium family. It comes from South and Central America, where almost 90 species grow, only 25 of which are used in culture. Quite often we grow nasturtiums on the balcony, where they look especially impressive and bloom until frost.

In natural conditions, nasturtium is found both annual and perennial. It has a highly branched, succulent stem with large, alternate, rounded leaves on long petioles, with pronounced veins. The leaves themselves are very decorative; they can be not only green, but also brownish or variegated.

The irregularly shaped flowers are usually yellow, orange, red, burgundy, large, and have a pleasant scent. Many varieties with double, semi-double flowers and bushes have been developed various sizes. For growing on the balcony, climbing, ampelous, dwarf species and varieties with long-term flowering that continues until frost are of interest. The seeds are large, up to 7 mm in diameter.

Most often, nasturtium is grown on the balcony as an annual, although the plant can be brought indoors with the onset of frost and stored until next spring.

Popular types of nasturtium

As already noted, 25 species have been used in culture, but most often we encounter four species:

• Nasturtium is large - the stems can be erect, 25-70 cm high, or creeping, up to 2.5 m long. She has large, bright, fragrant flowers, which replace each other, decorate our balconies until the first frost.

Large nasturtium

• Small nasturtium grows to a maximum of 35 cm, often does not exceed 15, has small leaves on very long petioles and yellow flowers with dark spots up to 3 cm in diameter.
• Canarian or foreign nasturtium is a real vine up to 3.5 m long; it definitely needs support. It grows well and over the course of a season can entwine the entire balcony with its numerous shoots. It blooms with small yellow flowers with green spurs and ruffled petals.

Small nasturtium

Canarian or foreign nasturtium

• Shield nasturtium is a subshrub with recumbent fragile shoots up to 4 m long and dark green shield-shaped leaves. The flowers are bright, dark red.

Nasturtium shieldbearing

Most varieties and hybrids with double, semi-double flowers in a wide variety of shades of yellow, orange or red are obtained by crossing shield-bearing nasturtium and large nasturtium.

Brought to Europe in the 18th century from South America, petunia immediately won the hearts of flower growers. Then the active...

Decorating balconies with nasturtiums

You can decorate your balcony only with nasturtiums - it will be beautiful and stylish. On small balconies you can plant a plant with long shoots, sending them up along a support so that it forms a kind of flowering arch, or hanging them in hanging boxes outside. Then it will seem that a whole waterfall of bright, beautiful flowers is going down. True, this can only be done on lower floors or if there is protection from the wind, strong winds can break the fragile branches of the plant. Ampelous nasturtium is very good in hanging flowerpots.

If space allows, you can create entire compositions from nasturtiums different types, colors and sizes. Good companions for her there will be petunias of a wide variety of colors, geraniums, rosemary, sage with blue and purple flowers. You can add blue or blue morning glory to the climbing nasturtium - they will shade and complement each other with both the colors and shape of the flowers, creating a truly enchanting spectacle.

Growing nasturtium from seeds

Before you start growing nasturtium from seeds, you need to consider a few points:

• Varietal and hybrid, does not inherit maternal characteristics. It is either propagated vegetatively, or seeds from trusted producers are purchased every year.
• Hybrid plants can be propagated by cuttings in the spring if you managed to preserve the specimens brought indoors in the fall, but it is much easier to simply buy seeds.
• The plant does not like transplants; it is better to sow the seeds 3-4 pieces in peat pots or directly into a container where it will grow all season.

- early April, deepen by 1.5-2 cm. You can pre-soak them for a day in “Epin” or “Heteroauxin”. Cover the crop with glass, place it in a warm place, moisten it regularly, and do not forget to ventilate. As soon as the seedlings appear, place them in a well-lit place - otherwise they will stretch out and either die or be sick for a long time.

When the seedlings grow a little, in warm weather take them to the balcony for hardening. First, the time the plant stays on fresh air should not exceed half an hour, gradually increase it.

Landing at a permanent place

Nasturtium must be planted very carefully - it is a fragile plant. If you sowed the seeds directly into a planter or pot, when it is stable warm weather, take them out to the balcony and install them in a permanent place.

The plant has a superficial root system. For its cultivation, a shallow, wide pot or cache-pot with a good layer of drainage and always with a hole is most suitable so that the water at the roots does not stagnate.

The soil needs to be light and not too nutritious. You can take universal soil for ornamental flowering plants, adding a little sand. If the flower was grown in a peat cup, you need to carefully transfer it into a container, add soil and water well.

Flowers are a delightful creation of nature that can decorate any home or garden. It's clear that...

Caring for container nasturtiums

Lighting and temperature

Nasturtium will grow well on a balcony with any orientation, just place a container with it on the south side so that the sun's rays do not fall on it at midday. In the shade the plant feels good, but flowering will be sparse.

Nasturtium is heat-loving; if a sharp cold snap occurs, it is better to bring it indoors for a while.

Watering

At the beginning of growth and during budding of nasturtium, abundant watering is necessary, the soil must be kept moist at all times. Make sure that the water at the roots does not stagnate. When flowering begins, reduce the intensity of watering - waterlogging makes nasturtium bloom worse.

Top dressing

On the nasturtium balcony, feeding is constantly needed. Remember that increased doses of nitrogen will cause vigorous growth of greenery to the detriment of flowering. It is best to buy a special fertilizer for nasturtiums; if this is not possible, take a complex fertilizer for ornamental flowering plants and feed the flower once a week until flowering begins. When the first flowers appear, reduce feeding to twice a month.

Features of care

At the beginning of the growing season, pinch out the shoots so that the hanging and climbing varieties form more side shoots, and the bush varieties are more compact. To ensure abundant and lush flowering, regularly remove faded buds.

Pests, diseases and possible problems

Nasturtium is very rarely affected by insect pests. But the plant is prone to diseases, many of which lead to death:

• Gray rot - gray-brown spots appear on stems, leaves, flowers.
• Bacterial wilt - wither lower leaves, then the plant dies completely.
• Mosaic virus - growth slows down, light green stains appear.
• Rust - small rusty spots appear, then they increase in size and become like pads.

To prevent diseases at the beginning of the growing season, treat the plant twice with an interval of two weeks with a solution of a copper-containing preparation, and the second treatment must be completed before the flowers open. Twice a month you can also treat nasturtium with biostimulants such as Megafol or Kendal.

Remember that a healthy, properly cared for plant rarely gets sick, is less likely to be affected by pests and generally causes less trouble.

Nowadays there is a lot on the Internet beautiful pictures with garden flowers - annuals, perennials... They simply tempt you to buy new seeds of a poorly studied flower. We sowed, planted, and seem to be taking good care of it, but the flower doesn’t bloom, or in general it has grown like a garden weed, although on the label the flowers are large, bright, promising... What can you do, then you have to study different literature, delve into different websites, forums, chats... The fact of the matter is that they may not answer why your plant is not growing or blooming. It’s good when you sow some marigolds or zinnias scattered by hand, after the rain they will come out like slender soldiers and will bloom all summer. But the soul of a gardener is multifaceted; I want variety and experience. Without experience, a gardener is like a ballerina without a tutu.

Before purchasing a plant, thoroughly study its characteristics and where it grows. Nowadays there are a lot of tropical flowers on sale, so sissy that the spring cold completely kills them. But it says to sow in open ground! Not here, but in Africa, this should be done)) Such flowers can be successfully grown at home on the balcony, as a houseplant.

Also, the basic requirements for high-quality growing of plants are:

1. The right combination earth mixtures;

2. Date of sowing or planting roots;

3. Temperature for growth;

4. Watering and spraying;

5. Feeding and fertilizers;

6. Formation of the plant skeleton;

7. Correct collection ripened seeds and their storage.

But most of us do not treat flowers individually at all, and yet each flower not only has a character, it can either show it or hide it, open up in lush decoration, or fade.

Garden annuals are mainly Middle lane divided into climbing and lianas, heat-loving perennials (do not tolerate winter and are grown as annuals), hanging plants, beautifully flowering and decorative foliage annuals in the garden. It is not for nothing that they are divided this way, because they require different approaches and care. (photo of thunbergia in the garden)

Formation of annual vines. Annual vines or perennials, but which live as annuals in the middle zone, are fast-growing plants that can be used in different parts of the garden and used not only as decoration, but also give them the function of protecting from the wind or disguising unsightly objects. Using annual vines, you can create arches, landscape fences, pergolas, and gazebos. They are good because they create a lush mass of decorative foliage composition or bloom so beautifully and often that the flowers cover most of the plant. But there are vines whose flowers are large, and accordingly they require more nutrients. In this case, do not rely on the number of flowers - this is the nature of the flower - not in quantity, but in quality!

Annual vines in the garden need to be pinched back at the seedling development stage! You need to pinch, that is, remove the top of the plant shoot above 3-4 leaves, leave 3-4 leaves below - everything else is removed. Well, if you like the fifth leaf, leave it, the main thing here is to feel and create! There is no constant anywhere, everything can always be changed. Such a seemingly rough pinching causes the vines to develop side shoots, which will make the bush more luxuriant and wider. This procedure is often carried out with the following climbing and vines in the garden: tall and medium-growing varieties of decorative peas, fiery red beans, moonflower, dolichos, thunbergia, morning glory, kobea, azarina, and similar other vines. This, so to speak, is one of the basic principles of plant care, which will enhance growth and flowering.

Everything else - watering, temperature, soil, fertilizers - you need to look at the information about each flower separately. Pay special attention to fertilizing and fertilizers! If it is a complex fertilizer, the label of which says that it is not strong and is suitable for all types of annuals and perennials, then you can safely fertilize plants with it. But it happens that without reading the packaging, they poured fertilizer generously, and the next day all the flowers were gone! Read labels and packaging; it is better to find information on the Internet in advance and study how it works, for whom it is suitable, for whom it is not.

Formation of heat-loving perennials. As mentioned earlier, these are tropical perennials, but since we have cold winters, they grow (go through the growing season) for one summer. Then we collect the seeds and sow them again in the spring, like ordinary summer crops. I would say that our native annuals are self-sowers, that is, the seeds of which can be stored in open ground until spring, then they germinate. There are also annuals whose seeds need to be collected and stored at home. But if you dig them up by the roots and plant them in a pot, they will grow on the windowsill in winter - the main thing is to choose proper care. This is the secret - preserving the roots! These are heat-loving perennials. (photo by Waller's balsam)

So, heat-loving perennials in the garden need to be pinched, that is, the top above 4-6 leaves should be removed. This procedure is welcomed by hybrid Brovalia, coleus, Peruvian heliotrope, hybrid fuchsia, fiery red kufeya, zonal pelargonium, New Guinea balsam and Waller's balsam. After pinching, these bushes will give us a well-formed skeleton of shoots and branches, lush and long-lasting flowering.

Formation of ampelous plants. Well, how empty the garden would be without them! These colored balls are simply inspiring, filling empty space with their richness! Remember this rule: if the plant is hanging, then it MUST be pinched and a bush formed. If you don't do this, then you'll just have an ordinary annual in the garden, but it won't look good in a hanging pot. That's why they are hanging, because if you pinch them, and they are not afraid of it - they even love and need it, then they will quickly grow new, numerous shoots, which an ordinary annual in the garden, for example, upright types of flowers, cannot do. So who here loves pinching so much? : surfinia, fuchsia, petunia (most species and varieties), sutera, calibrachoa, ivy-leaved pelargonium, ferulifolia series, large-flowered anagallis and other beautifully flowering ampelous ones. But decorative leafy plants that love pinching can also be ampelous: green grass, ivy, ivy-leaved budra. (photo of hybrid petunia)

Forced pinching. Yes, and it may happen that they missed the timing of sowing seedlings, did not temperature enough, did not water enough, planted the seedlings in the ground too early or late, early - it may freeze, late - it is hot and the developed root system painfully tolerates replanting. In such a bad case, the stems and shoots will stretch towards the sun, towards the sky, and they themselves will be light green or even yellow. I strongly recommend pinching it, as well as watering it regularly and creating conditions at a suitable temperature - shading or transplanting to sunny plot. The fact is that the plant devotes all its strength to growth, stretching, and expelling flowers and seeds as quickly as possible, because it feels bad and its main task is to at least create offspring. But this spoils the appearance of the plant itself, and it’s a pity to look at it - it’s stunted... Don’t be afraid, pinch low, leave 3 - 6 leaves. The plant will produce new shoots that will bloom in a timely manner. Such problems can occur with most annuals in the garden, e.g. ageratum, petunia, lobularia, marigolds, salvia, hybrid verbena, zinnia, etc.(photo of marigolds in the garden)

Pinching after planting in the ground. Usually we pinch out the seedlings, but there are some plant quirks that need to be pinch out after planting in the ground, and preferably after some time, until the plant is well rooted and settles down. Otherwise, the forces will be used to root the development of side shoots. The reason is that while the plant is in a greenhouse or greenhouse as seedlings, it grows for a long time, does not develop, and there is no room for it. But as soon as they are planted in open ground, they immediately begin to expel stems and vines. Such unusual things include tall varieties of helichrysum bract and carnation. So, after planting them in the ground, you need to pinch them over 3-4 leaves. And we cut off the central shoot at the level of 2 - 3 nodes. As a result, we get strong branching and lush flowering. (photo of carnation in the garden)

If seeds form quickly during hot weather. It’s good when the summer has varied weather, when it rains at least once a week, then the earth is saturated with moisture and everything is raging with greenery... But it happens, very often lately, that the earth goes without rainwater for a month. It’s good when you can water with a hose, but alas, not everyone has this opportunity. It’s a pity to look at flower beds that turn into dead wood with drooping flower heads... The plant feels death, and it is natural to strive to throw out the flowers and seeds as quickly as possible. In addition, the seeds may in this case not be formed. These garden annuals are afraid of intense and prolonged heat: Iberis umbelliferous, Chinese carnation, hybrid gatsaniya, lobularia, Drummond's phlox. After a short flowering, they quickly throw away the seed pods and that’s it! We did it! Flowers can be helped if they are trimmed, leaving shoots and branches 8-10 cm high. Then they should be immediately fertilized, fed and watered thoroughly. Literally in a week - two flowers, as if revived, will spread out with greenery and be covered with fresh flowers! Don't forget to water. If a flower is expensive, then at least from a watering can. (photo of gatsaniya in the garden)

Another similar method. If the plant grows well, there is enough water, sun and nutrients, but the flowering is alternate, there is a flower - a spikelet, first the lower, then the upper flowers open, or the flowers are small, open and set in a couple of days, then to prolong the flowering you need to break off the ovaries flowers that are preparing to go to seed. Walk around the flowerbed and pluck the wilted flowers - only at the end of summer, in the fall, you should not do this often, leave large, healthy ovaries for the formation of seeds. This kind of local pinching is loved by marigolds, dimorphotheca notemata, petunia, pelargonium, verbena, godetia grandiflora, Snapdragon, calendula, salvia.

Pinching and formation of decorative leafy annuals in the garden. We are all talking about flowers, but there are plants that will decorate your garden with leaves! These plants cannot be called flowers, because they do have flowers, but they are not decorative, small, colorless. These are more likely to be called bushes. With the help of decorative leafy bushes you can create different garden figures, borders, walls from drafts and for shade. Pinching and the formation of the skeleton of branches and shoots are well accepted ragwort, perilla, santolina, coleus, kochia.(photo of perilla in the garden)

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The most popular flower in summer cottages, urban areas and recreation areas are marigolds (Tagetes). They have other names - caps, lights, black-shaved ones. Even an inexperienced grower can cope with their cultivation. Marigolds can be grown from seeds and sown in open ground. The decorative flower looks like a carnation or small chrysanthemum.

Basic methods of reproduction

Tagetes grow well on any soil. The main thing is that it must be loose, breathable and allow water to pass through well. Tagetes, or marigolds, are propagated in two main ways - by seedlings and by placing seeds directly into open soil.

Work begins in mid-April, early May, when frosts no longer threaten the plant. Sowing can be done with either dry or pre-soaked material, the shelf life of which does not exceed 2-4 years.

Using plastic film, they can be added to the soil from March.

Growing seedlings

In order for the plant to have a healthy, strong appearance, you need to properly prepare the soil mixture. Marigold seeds are grown for seedlings in soil that consists of humus, peat, turf, sand (1: 1: 1: 1.5). To disinfect the soil, use the fungicide Fitosporin or prepare dark pink 2% potassium permanganate. Treating the soil substrate will prevent the flower from dying from blackleg.

Various containers are used for cultivation; 3 cm is placed on the bottom. drainage material. The grooves are watered with warm water, the seeds are distributed evenly, and 0.5-1 cm of earth is sprinkled on top. The container is covered transparent film, put in bright room with a temperature of +15-20˚C. After 5-7 days, the first shoots will appear.

Direct sowing in open ground

Tagetes – unpretentious flower, which is planted as seedlings or applied as grains directly into the soil. If sown in open ground, flowering will appear in July - August. Furrows are made and seeds are sown. To prevent bald spots from forming, it is recommended to soak them. To do this, spread the grains on a damp cloth and seal them with a lid for 3-4 days. When shoots appear, you can sow them to a depth of 1-1.5 cm. After this method of growing, flowers do not require diving. If the seedlings have sprouted too densely, they need to be thinned out.

Collecting and preparing seeds for planting

You can buy planting material for the first sowing, and then get your own seeds. To do this, choose a strong, healthy marigold bush and let it dry. When collecting ripened seeds, a rustling sound will be felt. The flower head contains black seeds, like needles with a light tip. They do not need to be treated, but to prevent diseases, they should be treated. There are two known methods:

• Heat treatment. Planting material is lowered into hot water(+50˚С) and kept for 30 minutes.
• Soaking. Prepare a 1% manganese solution and soak the seed for 20 minutes.

The ripened material will give strong seedlings and lush flowering.

When to collect marigold seeds

During flowering, you need to remember or somehow mark the most attractive bushes in order to collect seed from them in the fall. The time to collect seeds is 40-45 days after the start of flowering.

How to collect marigold seeds

For planting material, you need to prepare a cardboard box or cotton bag. IN plastic container it will become moldy or damp. When the flower head is dry, the seeds are easily poured into the container. To collect them from cut flowers, you need to hang them with their dry heads down. Place a sheet of paper under the bunch so they can fall off. All that remains is to collect the dry seeds and put them in the prepared box.

Planting material can be prepared directly on the site, on a plant growing in the ground. It is in no way inferior in terms of germination and is good for 3-4 years.

Subtleties of growing seedlings

The growing season of Tagetes is 40-50 days, so you need to sow in early April to get strong, healthy seedlings. The soil must be fertile and loose. It is fertilized with a mixture consisting of one part garden soil and one part purchased soil. Be sure to add perlite for air and moisture permeability.

Flowers sometimes die from black leg fungus, so the soil needs to be soaked with a fungicide, preferably heated for 30 minutes at a temperature of +50˚C. River sand will help strengthen the immunity of seedlings, dolomite flour, ash, which will be sprinkled on the soil for seedlings. When growing seedlings, you need to use complex products, such as Maxim and Vitaros. These drugs will protect flowers from harmful bacteria.

When to plant marigold seedlings

If you add Chernobrivtsia to the soil earlier, they will bloom early. Growers plant seeds for seedlings in March - April, then flowering will begin in early June. When daylight is short, additional lighting will be required so that the seedlings do not stretch, as well as the correct temperature and soil moisture. If the flowers are intended for indoor spaces, such as a loggia, they can be sown as seedlings in January. The first shoots will appear in 5-7 days.

Requirements for container and soil

Boxes for growing seedlings can be made from various materials - cardboard, wood, plastic, metal. Despite the fact that marigolds are unpretentious flowers, the soil should still be fertile and loose. For fertilizer use peat, humus or compost, turf soil, add ½ part of sand. Good seedlings obtained in garden soil, which is pre-mixed with ½ part of sand.

Sowing technology

When carrying out the activity, you need to prepare a soil substrate from peat, ash, turf, sand, which will fill the seedling containers. Planting tagetes is carried out as follows:

• Fill a plastic container, cassette or cup with soil, compact it, and moisten it.
• Make shallow rows 1.5-2 cm apart.
• Water the grooves with warm water.
• Sow the seeds to a depth of 1-1.5 cm and sprinkle with soil to a depth of 0.5-1 cm.
• Cover with transparent material.
• Keep seedlings at a temperature of +15-18˚С.

Fertilizer is applied after 2 weeks. For this you can use a multi-component universal composition MultiFlor.

Seedling care

After the first shoots appear (5-7 days), the covering material is removed and the plant is well ventilated. This is done in order to protect the flowers from blackleg. After 2-3 days, the film is completely removed.

Then the tagetes are watered regularly; the soil should not be allowed to dry out. In the place where the seedlings are located, the temperature at night should be at least +13-15˚С, and during the day +17-19˚С. When the day lengthens, additional lighting is not needed, but it is better to place the seedlings closer to the window.

Picking

When real 2-3 carved leaves have formed, they begin to transplant Chernobrivtsev. Marigold seedlings should be planted in separate glasses or a seedling container. Deepen the flower to the lower oblong leaves (cotyledons). They must not be allowed to come into contact with the ground.

Add 1 tbsp to the soil substrate per 5 liters of soil. spoon mineral fertilizer containing phosphorus, nitrogen and potassium, 0.5 tbsp wood ash. Seedlings can be transplanted without a lump of soil on the roots, which can be shortened if they are too long. Dive seedlings to a depth of 1-1.5 cm.

Do I need to pinch marigolds?

Breeders have developed new varieties different heights, colors, bush shapes. Large flowers can be seen on low-growing plants. These are modern Antigua, Mandarin, Vanilla, Lunasi, which do not require pinching. Their height is 25-30 cm, the stem is erect and does not bend towards the ground from the weight of the inflorescences.

Florists themselves decide whether manipulation should be carried out or not. When the stem has elongated, some part of the plant is removed so that lateral shoots form on the bush. You can pinch marigolds after 6-7 carved leaves appear, which you pinch off with your fingers or cut with scissors. It is better to pinch hanging plants or vines, but this is not necessary for tagetes, since it already has a spherical bush.

Time for planting in the ground

Every region is different climatic conditions, therefore, when determining the time of introducing seedlings into the soil, this feature must be taken into account. Flower growers accurately calculate the timing of plant growth on their territory. The seedlings should be about two months old. Frosts stop in April - May, and if they are gone earlier, then seedlings are brought in at the beginning of spring.

To avoid the consequences of an unexpected cold snap, the plants are covered with one of the non-woven materials - spunbond, lutrasil, agrosuf, agrospan at night, and removed in the morning.

Direct sowing in open ground

Marigolds are planted in the ground only in those regions where weather conditions permit. To prevent them from getting too cold and dying, it is customary to sow them in the spring after frost, when the snow has melted from the soil. Planting seeds in open ground does not require complex measures; the technology is not much different from the seedling method. They can be sown in two ways:

• Dry. Place in prepared and watered grooves, the depth of which is 3 cm, and the distance between them is 5-10 cm.
• Sprouted. To do this, pour the seeds with water for 10 minutes, transfer them to a plate, and cover with a damp cloth and film. After 2-3 days, the swollen sprouts are planted.

If you plant seeds earlier in the spring, they will bloom earlier.

Sowing dates

When the frosts left, the air temperature rose to +10-12˚С, every gardener tries to improve his plot. Tagetes are one of the first spring annual flowers that grow in the ground without seedlings. IN northern regions Planting countries recommend covering with non-woven material for 10-14 days after sowing in the soil. You can add seeds before the beginning of June, since their growing season is 40-50 days.

Preparing seeds and beds

Flower growers are well acquainted with marigolds, so they are advised to add germinated planting material to the soil. It needs to be soaked in a container of water at room temperature for 10 minutes. Then spread it out, cover with a damp cloth, wrap it up, and put it on a warm, sunny windowsill. The seed will germinate in 3-4 days. The soil needs to be fertilized and disinfected. Make shallow rows 1-1.5 cm, and a distance of 15-20 cm. When the seeds are sown dry, for convenience, you can take paper, fold it in half and sprinkle the grains. Folding the paper will help disperse them evenly.

Seeding technology

Marigolds do not require special care, so they feel comfortable both in the sun and in the shade. There is no need to fertilize, this will lead to active growth of the stems, but will delay flowering. The soil should be fertile, light, slightly moist. Chernobrivtsev seeds are planted in the ground in almost the same way as in seedling containers:

• Cut rows 1.5-2 cm deep.
• Fill with warm water.
• Spread the planting material, sprinkle with 1-1.5 cm of soil.
• Cover with covering material for 5-7 days, remove after the greenery appears.

If you get dense shoots, the flowers can be thinned out and planted in another place

Features of growing at home

Marigolds - bright, annual, unpretentious plant. They decorate not only summer cottages, streets, squares, but also loggias and balconies. Growing tagetes from seeds at home requires sufficient lighting. It should not only be natural, but also complementary.

The seeds need to be sown in December. The soil can be a purchased universal one for flowers or a nutrient substrate - turf land, peat, humus, sand (2:2:2:1). It is advisable to disinfect the soil with potassium permanganate, a 2% solution. Marigolds are planted in a pot at home so that they do not need to be replanted later. To do this, fill the depressions with warm water, distribute the seeds in a circle to a depth of 1.5-2 cm and lightly cover them with earth. The top of the pot is covered with a hermetically sealed transparent film and placed in a lighted place. The soil should not be allowed to dry out, but it should not be overly moistened either. It is enough to lightly spray with a spray bottle. Shoots will appear in 3-5 days.

At correct landing Unpretentious marigolds can be enjoyed all summer and autumn from their abundant flowering.

Marigolds are a plant familiar to many gardeners. Even for beginners, planting a marigold plant, growing and caring for it will not be difficult. They are loved for their unpretentiousness and wonderful decorative qualities.

French marigolds

Marigolds are native to Central and South America and belong to the Aster family. To date, more than 40 species of this plant have been bred, and it is grown in almost all countries of the world. This plant is heat-loving, frosts are destructive for it. But these flowers can easily tolerate a lack of moisture; only at the beginning of the growing season do they need abundant watering. The soil suitable for them is light, fertile, with weak or neutral acidity.

Advice! When preparing the soil for planting marigolds, you should never apply manure; you can only fertilize with humus or compost.

Varieties of marigolds, also called Chernobrivtsi, differ in the height of the stems and the size of the flower baskets. Mainly 3 species are cultivated in flower beds.

1. Marigolds erect- the tallest species. The height of its stems reaches 1 meter. The inflorescences are large, most often double, monochromatic.
2. They grow in the form of small bushes, no higher than 60 cm. The inflorescences are multi-colored, medium in size.
3. Marigolds are thin-leaved. This plant is no more than 40 cm high, with small feathery leaves and small flowers.

Most marigold varieties are annual plants, but there are also perennial varieties, such as Carmen and Bonanza. These are medium-sized species of rejected marigolds. When planting such varieties, you do not need to sow seeds or plant seedlings every year; this is what perennial varieties are good for.

Many garden plots, city flower beds and balconies are decorated with marigolds. Planting and caring for them is quite simple, but still has its own characteristics, knowing which every gardener will be able to grow these elegant flowers on his plot.

Planting methods

Since these flowers are unpretentious, they can be sown directly in open ground. Marigolds are usually propagated by seeds, although growing from cuttings is also possible. The seeds remain viable for 2 years, but it is still better to take fresh seeds for planting, especially since they are easy to collect yourself from well-dried inflorescences. Seeds can be planted dry or germinated.

Seeds are sown in open ground in May, when the soil is well warmed up. Sowing is done in shallow furrows and watered well. When the seedlings grow up, they are planted so that the plants do not interfere with each other. Marigolds grow quite quickly and begin to bloom within a month and a half after planting. To

Seeds for seedlings begin to be planted in early March, when it has enough natural light. Tall varieties take longer to grow, so they need to be sown earlier than low-growing varieties. The soil for seedlings is prepared from humus, sand and peat; a drainage layer must be made from expanded clay or crushed stone. Disinfect the soil with a solution of potassium permanganate and place the seeds in shallow furrows. Place containers with seedlings in a warm, well-lit place, moisten the soil as it dries.

After germination, the seedlings are transferred to a cooler place. When 2-3 leaves appear, the seedlings are planted at a distance of 7-8 cm from each other so that they do not stretch out. Plants are planted in open ground in mid-May, in the northern regions - in early June, when the threat of frost has passed. If frosts are still possible, the seedlings will need to be covered with film. The distance between plantings depends on the variety: tall varieties should be planted 40-50 cm from each other, low-growing varieties should be planted at a shorter distance. Marigolds tolerate transplantation very easily. After planting, you need to water frequently and abundantly, otherwise the flowers will be small and the bushes will be stunted.

Caring for marigolds

Caring for marigolds is simple; it is enough to follow a few rules so that they decorate the area with their bright flowers until frost.

• For abundant and lush flowering plants need good lighting. Although they easily tolerate shaded areas, marigolds growing in the shade will have smaller inflorescences and a shorter flowering period.
• Flowers require frequent watering only at the beginning of the growing season. As soon as the buds begin to set, watering should be reduced; excess moisture leads to rotting of the roots. During the dry season, it is enough to water the plants every other day before sunset, when the heat subsides. During prolonged rains, large inflorescences of marigolds may begin to rot. They must be removed in a timely manner to prevent the entire plant from rotting.
• You can feed marigolds with complex fertilizer 2 weeks after planting the seedlings, although only plants grown in pots and containers need regular feeding. It is better to feed flowers growing in open ground with organic fertilizers, for example, mature compost or mulch the soil around the plants with mowed grass.
• But regular loosening and weeding are necessary for flowers. Their root system needs air-saturated soil, and the soil crust that forms after watering prevents this. For the same reason, plantings should not be thickened; closely spaced plant roots will interfere with each other.
• Tall varieties can be pruned or simply pinched off the tops of the shoots, this leads to the formation of side shoots and the formation of lush bushes. In autumn, plants are removed from the beds after they are completely dry.

Advice! If you regularly remove old wilted inflorescences, marigolds will begin to bloom even more abundantly.

Disease Prevention

Marigolds are rarely affected by any diseases or pests. In rainy weather, slugs may appear on the plants and eat the leaves. To repel pests, containers with bleach are placed in the flower garden, the smell of which slugs cannot stand. Also in wet weather flowers can be affected gray rot. Infected plants must be destroyed immediately, because gray rot spores can spread to other plants. In dry summers, flowers may appear spider mite, you can fight it by spraying the plantings with an infusion of onion peels.

Useful and decorative properties of marigolds

Marigolds are widely used in landscape design. They are grown in flower pots and pots for decoration. summer gazebos and verandas. Low-growing varieties are planted as borders along garden paths, they also look impressive on alpine slides, in rockeries and in a flower bed. You can decorate your flower garden in an original way if you plant marigold varieties of different heights and colors. They also combine well with other long-flowering crops, such as zinnias and chrysanthemums.

In addition to their wonderful decorative properties, marigolds also have many useful properties. This unique plant is a real garden nurse. They are used to control pests. The smell of these plants is repellent cruciferous flea beetles, aphids, bedbugs. Flowers are planted in the area where potatoes grow to scare away Colorado potato beetle. With their help you can.

• Marigolds suppress pathogens of fungal diseases that live in the soil and repel nematodes. To prevent fungal diseases, the plant is grown as green manure for 2 months, then mowed and embedded in the soil. You can also scatter their crushed stems on the site in the fall, and thoroughly mulch those places where nematodes or fungal diseases were found with these chopped stems.
• You can plant marigolds next to others garden crops for protection against pests and diseases, but in limited quantities, because they can inhibit the growth of these crops. An infusion or decoction of the plant is also used to control pests. The whole plant is collected, dried and crushed. Take 200 g of dry plant in a bucket of boiling water and leave for 2 days. This infusion is sprayed or watered on vegetable and flower crops.
• A decoction from the plant can be used to disinfect bulbs of other flowers before planting. It is very useful to place dried marigolds in autumn compost heaps to disinfect the compost from diseases and pests.

Medicinal properties of the plant

Marigold flowers can be used to treat various diseases. They contain various essential oils, carotene, lutein. To treat diseases of the pancreas, in particular diabetes, an infusion of the flowers and leaves of the plant is used. Medicines prepared from marigolds strengthen the immune system, increase the body's resistance to colds, flu, bacteria and viruses.

Flower tincture improves the condition of the cardiovascular system and has a calming effect. With its help you can get rid of headaches, stress and even depression. A decoction of marigolds normalizes digestion and has a diuretic and laxative effect. To remove salts and toxins from the body, take a decoction of flowers. When constantly working at the computer, it is useful to eat 2-3 inflorescences per day, because... they contain lutein, which is very beneficial for vision.

Decoctions and infusions can also be used for various diseases skin for washing and lotions, for prickly heat in children. Lotions and face masks are prepared from the inflorescences, which have a rejuvenating effect. Olive oil infused with marigold flowers is used as a lip balm and as a wound healing agent. Fresh juice from the plant relieves itching from insect bites.

In addition, dried and powdered flowers can be used as a seasoning for meat and fish dishes. It is widely used in Georgian cuisine and is known as Imeretian saffron.

All these wonderful properties of marigolds, their unpretentiousness, ease of growing and caring for them, make them a welcome guest in every garden plot. Their bright sunny inflorescences will decorate your flower garden until late autumn.

Letniki are definitely the brightest and, perhaps, the most unpretentious inhabitants of our gardens. But they also need care. Weeding, fertilizing and, of course, correct and timely formation of each bush. For careful care, the plants will thank you with lush and especially long flowering. So, let's start in order!

Formation of annual vines

Annual vines are fast-growing plants. With their help you can decorate an unsightly wall outbuilding, decorate a fence or gazebo, create a floral arch or a floral emerald curtain. Simply put, with their help you can turn everyday life and dullness into something completely fantastic and enchanting. In order for the vine bushes to captivate the eye with their power and splendor in the future, they need to be pinched back at the seedling stage. Pinching - removing the tip of the shoot above the 3-4 leaf, stimulates the formation of side shoots. This procedure is necessary for tall and medium-growing varieties of peas, fire beans, moonflower, dolichos, azarina, thunbergia and others.

Formation of heat-loving perennials

Heat-loving perennials, which are cultivated as, also need timely pinching. Removing the top above 4-6 leaves has a beneficial effect on the development of hybrid fuchsia, Peruvian heliotopus, hybrid browallia and coleus. Pelargonium zonalis, fire-red kufeya, New Guinea balsam and Waller's balsam also need pinching. The result is branched, compact and abundantly flowering bushes.

But don’t get carried away, because every pinch delays the beginning of flowering. 1-2 procedures are enough. Overly zealous flower growers in the northern regions, due to repeated pinching, may not be able to wait for flowering before the onset of cold weather.

Formation of ampelous plants

Queens of hanging flowerpots and balcony boxes: petunia, surfinia, fuchsia, ivy-leaved pelargonium, calibrachoa, ferulolifolia, Anagallis grandiflora, sutera and others need shaping. Repeated pinching as it grows promotes branching of the bushes. As a result, shoots and flowers form an incredibly lush and colorful cascade.

Some decorative leaf hanging plants also need pinching and pruning of shoots. Flower growers do not need to be careful when shortening the shoots of ivy leaf, green grass or, for example, ivy. After all, even frequent pruning will not harm these plants.

Forced pinching

Flower growers of lobularia, petunia, zinnia, hybrid verbena and other beautifully flowering annuals often face the same problem. And entirely through my own fault.

Attention!

Incorrectly calculated timing of sowing seeds, lack of light during the growth period, untimely planting of summer seedlings in the ground - all this leads to elongation of the stems of young plants. In this case, removing most of the stem will help correct the situation.

New branches will soon grow from the axillary buds remaining on the shoot. And after a short time, the plants will look as they should - healthy and strong.

Ageratum mexicanis

Pinching after planting in the ground

Carnations or, for example, tall varieties of helichrysum bracts begin to grow only after planting in a permanent place. For this reason, pinching of shoots is also carried out after planting seedlings in the phase of 3-4 pairs of leaves. The central shoot is pruned at the level of 2-3 nodes, which further promotes better tillering and abundant flowering of plants.

Helichrysum bractae

Pinching to prolong flowering

Every summer gives flower growers surprises. Either it shines with a rainbow, then it cries with rain, then it smiles with a ruddy sun. But sometimes the “gift” of summer is the merciless heat that turns a flower garden into a desert. In such unfavorable conditions, plants rush to leave behind offspring. You can often see how, after a short flowering, Chinese carnation, Iberis umbelliferae, Drummond's phlox, lobularia and hybrid gatsania are already swaying seed pods on their branches...

To enjoy bright colors as long as possible, flowering can be extended. To do this, shoots must be cut off at a height of 5-8 cm from the ground. Afterwards, feed and water the bush. After one to two weeks, flowers will appear on the newly formed shoots.

Ageratum, calendula, salvia, verbena, snapdragon, petunia, pelargonium, godetia grandiflora, marigolds, and others are plants whose flowering can be prolonged by plucking out wilted inflorescences. Of course, on very large areas it is difficult to do this alone. But on small garden plots It’s quite possible to implement your plans, even for a beginner. Moreover, the reward for your work is the opportunity to admire the play of colors until late autumn.

Space for creativity

A little imagination, skills with scissors and the hands of a florist can work wonders. But this is provided that there is santolina, coleus, perilla or, for example, ragus on the site. These plants with variegated or curly leaves are easy to pinch and shape. So it won’t be difficult to create a small hedge or colorful border with their help.

But, not a single plant compares with. It will give you the opportunity to feel like a real sculptor. By trimming twig by twig, a lush bush can be turned into a pyramid, cube or ball. And the sculpture is simple and unpretentious, but it was made with your own hands. What could it be the best decoration a flower garden, if not a creation dear to the heart?

Kochia broom

If quality is more important than quantity...

Asters, gillyflowers, zinnias and chrysanthemums are beautiful not only in a flowerbed, but also in a bouquet. To grow the largest flowers possible, side shoots must be removed during budding. For dahlias grown for cutting, you need to remove the side shoots, and of the three buds formed on each peduncle, leave two, breaking off the middle one.

Thus, knowing these simple rules for forming annuals and applying them in practice, you will be convinced that flowers are the most grateful creatures!

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