What tools are needed to install a toilet. Installing a toilet with your own hands: installation video, step-by-step instructions. Toilet prices

Most compatriots, in particular skilled craftsmen, often independently take on the task of repairing a house and its various systems. However, due to certain circumstances, they approach the installation of new plumbing with extreme caution and even lack of faith in their own abilities. And although often for installing a toilet, for example, you have to pay mercenaries an amount equivalent to the cost of the toilet itself, this fact still does not stop them. But in vain, because installing a toilet with your own hands is a very simple task!

Preparing for installation

Of course, it won’t hurt you to become familiar with a number of specific nuances associated with the installation procedure, but they are so accessible that you can figure them out without any problems. In fact, it turns out that installation, direct installation and connection to the general sewerage system of all types of bathrooms are practically no different from each other. The only difference can be identified in the connection of some additional functions, coupled with the installation of an automated system.

Different systems consist of similar elements

Of course, any toilet comes with step-by-step instructions for assembling it. There should not be any difficulties during the installation of the drain and fill system. However, close attention must be paid, since its job is to regulate the pressure and volume of water filling the tank.

Check the complete set of the drain tank

Application deserves special attention. This solution is very convenient to use. We will talk about installation in detail in a separate review.

Toilet installation step by step

Let's look at the main pitfalls in the procedure for installing a brand new toilet. We will talk specifically about new residents, that is, our instructions do not imply dismantling the old bathroom. Therefore, be careful.

So, to install the newly purchased toilet yourself, you need to do the following:

This is all! Self-installation of the bathroom has come to an end. However, you should not immediately use it for its intended purpose: you must allow the silicone to harden. He does this for 6 hours. By the way, don’t skimp on the sealant! There is never too much of it in installation work. But be sure to make sure that the silicone does not end up inside the pipe.

Note: To install a bathroom and its cistern yourself, you do not need professional tools. It is enough to stock up on a set of wrenches and adjustable types.

Bathroom with vertical outlet

This model is especially popular in European countries. Such a toilet is a device in which the siphon located in the bowl and the outlet pipe are directed downward when installed. This universal design allows you to install the bathroom at any angle to the wall.

For installation you only need to perform a few steps:

• Make floor markings and install a regular screw flange with a locking device;
• Install the sewer pipe in the center of the flange;
• Mount the toilet on the flange and securely fix the outlet pipe.

Bathroom with horizontal outlet

Or in another way with direct release “into the wall”. Most common in Russia. The outlet of such a toilet is invariably directed backwards. The outlet pipe in this design is connected to the sewer pipe using a specific cuff.

In the installation procedure, pay attention to the attachment of the bathroom to the floor. The legs of this type of toilet are usually equipped with specific holes designed for fixing plumbing fixtures specifically to the floor surface.

Advice: You should begin connecting a bathroom with direct outlet during its installation. Dowels and standard screws are used as fasteners. Fasten the structure with great care, since excessively strong and sharp screw “pulling” is quite capable of damaging the integrity of the bathroom.

Toilet with oblique outlet

Let's look at the main installation points:

Specifics of connection without corrugation

We have already discussed connecting the bathroom to the general sewerage system using corrugated pipes in step-by-step instructions. Is it possible to connect a toilet without using corrugation, and won’t this process be more complicated? Such a connection is, of course, possible, but it is unlikely to raise any questions for you.

If you are finally convinced that the corrugation is unnecessary, then take a closer look at the following specific nuances in the procedure for such a connection:

Mandatory use of a drain pipe. Taking into account the angle of the toilet, connecting the adapter is carried out using different methods:

bathroom with oblique outlet– installation is carried out in the floor: in modern apartments you will no longer see such a connection, but once upon a time it was relevant;
bathroom with vertical outlet– installation is carried out strictly at right angles to the wall;
bathroom with horizontal outlet– the installation angle is equivalent to 40º, installation is carried out in the wall.

1. If the outlet of the bathroom does not suit the outlet of the sewage system, it is necessary to either purchase a different model of the product, or still use flexible adapter pipes.

Thus, installing a toilet with your own hands should not cause you serious problems. You can easily implement it, guided by certain rules, following the step-by-step instructions and taking into account the specifics of the plumbing installation. This will cost you much less than calling professionals to your home.

In the next article we will tell.

When it is necessary to replace an old one or install a new toilet, some people immediately rush to seek the help of a specialist. You should not make hasty decisions, because doing this work yourself is not at all difficult. It is enough to study the instructions of the purchased product in detail, understand the nuances of installation and perform it yourself. Modern connecting elements allow you to quickly and efficiently connect the toilet to the sewer system. By spending a little time, you will save significant money, because the cost of an experienced plumber’s work is almost equal to the cost of the purchased toilet.

Classification of toilets

Many people believe that the toilet is a modern invention, but it is not. Already at the end of the 16th century, it was invented for the Queen of England, but due to the lack of centralized water supply and sewerage, it was not widely used.

Modern toilets are available in different modifications and differ in the shape of the bowl, installation method and type of drainage system. To make the right choice of such a device, you first need to familiarize yourself with the existing offer and decide on the toilet parameters that you need.

By mounting method

There is a classification of toilets according to the method of fastening:

• floor They are the most budget-friendly and best suited for spacious toilet rooms. Installation of such a product is carried out on anchor bolts, which allows, if necessary, its dismantling without damaging the floor covering;

  Floor-standing models are mounted on anchor bolts and, if necessary, can be easily dismantled

• wall-mounted This is one of the varieties of floor-mounted options, designed for installation in small bathrooms. In terms of the design of the flushing system, such toilets are practically in no way inferior to wall-hung ones. There are corner models of wall-mounted devices that are great for installation in small toilet rooms;

  A wall-mounted toilet differs from a floor-mounted one only in that it is installed close to the wall

• hanging. Also designed for installation in small areas. Although outwardly such models seem very elegant and fragile, they are designed to weigh up to 400 kg, therefore they are very durable and reliable. Installing a hanging structure makes it easier to clean the bathroom and also frees up some free space. This toilet is mounted using a frame or block method.

  A wall-hung toilet saves space

By release design

Depending on the type of drainage of water into the sewer system, there are toilets:

• with vertical outlet. This solution is rare here, but, for example, in America it is very popular. This is due to the fact that in this country communications are often not attached to the wall, but are carried out under the floor, so the toilet can be installed anywhere;

  A toilet with a vertical outlet can be installed in any necessary place; to do this, just connect the sewer pipes there

• with horizontal outlet. The toilet flush and sewer hole are located on the same line. Most modern models have this design;

  A toilet with a horizontal outlet is designed for cases where the sewer hole is located in the wall

• with oblique release. The angle of inclination of the toilet outlet is 40–45°. Such models were popular in the 80s of the last century; they were installed in apartment buildings.

  Toilets with an oblique outlet are installed when the communications fit along the bottom of the wall

By type of tank mounting

If we talk about the type of tank mounting, then toilet bowls can be of the following types:

• with a separate tank. In this case, the tank is mounted under the ceiling, and it is connected to the bowl using a pipeline. This allows for a high flushing speed, but the appearance of this design is not very attractive;

  The tank is located at some distance from the toilet bowl and is connected to it by a pipeline

• with a joint cistern, which is attached directly to the toilet bowl. The design can be detachable, bolted or monolithic;
  

  In most toilet models, the tank is installed directly on the bowl

• with hidden tank. This solution allows you to realize a variety of design ideas. The hidden tank is attached using the frame method;

  Only the bowl remains visible, and the tank is hidden inside the toilet

• without tank. Typically, such models are installed in public toilets, but can also be used at home. In this case, the pressure into the bowl is supplied directly from the water supply, and the water flow is controlled using an electronic or mechanical valve.

  In a toilet without a tank, water is supplied to the bowl directly from the main line.

By flush type

There are differences between toilets in the direction of water flow when flushing:

Most modern toilets have two flush modes - full and economical, which allows you to almost halve water consumption.

The modern market offers a wide selection of both domestic and foreign toilets. Our models are cheaper because the price does not include transportation costs and customs duties. The main parameters to consider when choosing include:

1. The quality of the bowl coating. In order for the toilet to be comfortable to use, it must have a good flush. And for this, the bowl must be covered with high-quality glaze - if it is porous, then dirt will constantly accumulate and you will have to use a brush more often.
2. Tank filling speed. The toilet must have modern shut-off valves, then if several people live in the house, there will be no need to wait long for the flush to be restored to functionality after other people use the toilet.
3. Availability of economy mode. Since now almost all apartments are equipped with water meters, in order to reduce its consumption, it is necessary to purchase models with a double button. In this case, it is possible to perform a complete or economical drain.

   Economical flush mode uses half as much water

4. Bowl shape. It can be different: round, oval, squared, so if possible, it is better to sit on the toilet and practically evaluate its comfort.
5. Material type. Typically, porcelain or earthenware is used to make toilets. Porcelain products are of higher quality, but their price is higher. Externally, it is almost impossible to distinguish porcelain from earthenware, so you must definitely study the product documentation. Now you can purchase metal and glass models, toilets made of reinforced plastic, natural or artificial stone.

   Toilets are made not only from traditional porcelain and earthenware, but also from natural stone, such as marble

6. Cover quality. It should be rigid, made of duroplast and have an antibacterial coating. You should not buy a foam cover, as it will be a breeding ground for germs. It is convenient when the lid is equipped with a microlift. It ensures its smooth closing, which occurs without noise or impact.

   It is best to purchase toilets with a duroplast lid with a built-in microlift

7. Additional functions. Now many manufacturers equip their products with various options, but keep in mind that this increases the cost of the device. Before purchasing such a model, consider whether you need lighting, music from the toilet, or a heated seat.

When choosing a toilet, you need to optimally combine your desires and financial capabilities. You can either sacrifice some points and choose a more budget model, or buy a device with additional capabilities.

Video: choosing a toilet

Preparing for installation

If you decide to install the toilet yourself, then before doing so you need to do some preparatory work. First you need to determine which model will be optimal in your case and only then purchase it.

Typically, the installation of a toilet is carried out during renovations in the bathroom. If there is a need to replace it in another case, then you must first remove items from the room that will interfere with the work, turn off the water supply and prepare all the necessary tools.

Required tools and materials

In order to install a toilet, you may need the following tools and materials:

If you are replacing a toilet, you must first dismantle the old device. The work process will be as follows:

1. Removing the tank. First you need to disconnect the water hose and then drain the water from it. Then open the lid, unscrew the fasteners and remove the tank.
2. Dismantling the toilet. Unscrew the attachment of the toilet to the floor and disconnect it from the sewer pipe. If this is not immediately possible, you need to shake the bowl a little. For ease of work, you can first cut off the toilet (if it will no longer be used), and then begin dismantling the fasteners.
   

   First remove the tank, and then dismantle the bowl

3. Cleaning the sewer hole. It is necessary to clean the entrance to the sewer hole, and then cover it with a rag so that foreign objects do not get there and toxic fumes do not penetrate into the apartment.

   The sewer pipe opening is cleaned of dirt and deposits

Preparing the surface for installation

The choice of method for preparing the floor surface will depend on how the old toilet was installed. Previously, to install a toilet, a board (taffeta) was embedded in the floor, after which the bowl was attached to it with screws. If the taffeta is in good condition, then you can leave it. If you decide to remove the board, then the resulting space must be filled with mortar and covered with tiles.

The surface for installing the toilet needs to be cleaned and leveled

If the toilet was installed on tiles, it is enough to simply unscrew it, since the floor covering will not be damaged. After this, you can mark the locations for installing the new toilet.

Toilet assembly

To ensure the integrity of the plumbing equipment and save space during transportation to the store, it arrives in a disassembled state. Do not be afraid of this, since each product comes with detailed assembly instructions, following which it will not be difficult to cope with this task.

How to connect a toilet to a cistern

The main attention should be paid to the correct installation of the float, since it is this that regulates the filling of the tank with water. The toilet assembly process itself consists of the following steps:

1. Installation of the drain mechanism. Shut-off valves usually come already assembled, so all you have to do is install them in the tank. Pay special attention to the contacting surfaces and make sure there are no burrs. First, install the sealing rubber, then the drain device and secure it with a nut.

   The drainage mechanism assembly is installed on a rubber seal, which protects the water drainage area from leakage

2. Connection of the tank with the shelf. The assembled tank is applied to the shelf on the toilet bowl and connected using the bolts and nuts included in the kit. Don't forget to install rubber washers to ensure a tight connection.

   The rubber washer ensures a tight connection between the tank and bowl

During installation of shut-off valves into the tank, all nuts are tightened by hand, without applying much force.

Place the toilet in the place where it will stand and level it using plastic or rubber gaskets. Then mark the attachment points, make holes in the floor and fix the toilet using dowels.

Connection to sewerage

After installing the toilet, you need to connect it to the sewerage system. There are some features when connecting models with vertical, horizontal or oblique drainage.

Installing a toilet with a vertical outlet

A toilet with a vertical outlet is connected to the sewer system simultaneously with its installation:

Installation of a toilet with a horizontal pipe

In this case, the outlet is directed backwards and a special cuff is used to connect it to the sewer pipe. Its shape depends on the location of the riser exit. If it is made horizontally, a straight adapter pipe of the appropriate diameter is used. If the drain pipe comes out at an angle, make a corresponding structure from rotary elbows or from a corrugated hose.

To connect a toilet with a horizontal outlet to the sewer system, a transition structure made of rotary elbows or flexible corrugation is used

Installing a toilet with an oblique outlet

Very often, the oblique toilet outlet is located above or below the sewer pipe. There are two ways to install such models:

Switching from cast iron pipes to plastic products

In houses of old construction, there are still cast iron sewer pipes, and if they are in good condition, then they do not necessarily need to be changed, since they can be connected to new plastic products.

There are several installation methods:

1. Using a rubber gasket. This option is good to use if the cast iron socket has a smooth edge. The cuff is lubricated with sealant and inserted into the socket, after which a plastic pipe or adapter is inserted into it. A plastic pipe is inserted 3–8 cm into a cast iron pipe - if everything is done correctly, then such a connection will reliably serve for 6–8 years.

   The sealing of plastic and cast iron pipes can be done using a rubber cuff

2. Using linen winding. If there is no sealant, you can use linen winding. This is a time-tested method: a plastic pipe is wrapped with linen winding, after which it is inserted into a cast iron socket, and the winding is carefully tucked in using a narrow spatula. Then the seam is coated with a solution of PVA glue and dries overnight.

   The gap between the plastic and cast iron pipe is sealed with tow and filled with mortar.

3. Combined method. To obtain the most airtight connection, when the gap between the pipes being connected is large, a combined installation method is used. At the same time, caulking is done using a winding and a rubber gasket is installed, after which the joint is coated with silicone sealant.
4. Using a press fitting. This is a special element that, on one side, has a thread for a cast iron pipe, and on the other, a socket for a plastic element. In this case, the edge of the old pipeline is cut off, after which it is lubricated with grease and a thread is cut. Then they wrap tow or FUM tape, lubricate them with sealant and screw on the press fitting. A plastic pipe is inserted into the socket.

   Using a press fitting, you can reliably connect a plastic pipe to a cast iron pipe

When connecting a cast iron and plastic sewer system, it is important to follow the specified rules for performing the work; this is the only way to obtain a high-quality and airtight connection.

Connection using corrugation

One of the most common ways to connect a toilet to a sewer is to use plastic corrugation. First you need to decide on the required size of this product. It is best to buy corrugation reinforced with wire or mesh - it is more durable and will last longer.

Toilet connection procedure:

You can make the connection using plastic elbows, but unlike corrugations they are not flexible. This solution is convenient to use in cases where the sewer system was planned for a specific toilet model.

Rigid outlets are stronger and more durable, but if you replace the toilet or need to move it a little, you will have to change adapters or use a corrugation or eccentric.

To connect the toilet to the sewer, you can use a straight adapter or an element with an eccentric

Installation is carried out in the same way as in the case of corrugation, but horizontally located adapters and right angles must be avoided. Gray adapters are cheaper, but they don’t look nice with a white toilet.

Video: installing a toilet

Connection to water supply

There are several ways to connect the toilet cistern to the water supply:

To connect to the water supply can be used:

The connection procedure will be the same regardless of the liner:

Video: connecting the toilet to the water supply

Connection features of the “monoblock” and “compact” models

The difference between “compact” and “monoblock” toilets lies in the type of connection to the flush cistern. If in the first case the tank is attached directly to the shelf located on the bowl, then in the second case the bowl and tank are made in a single body.

In a monoblock toilet, the bowl and tank are made in a single body

Both types of toilets are mounted on the floor, and the method of connecting them to the sewer system will depend on the type of flush. Installation is carried out in the same way as shown above. The only difference is that for a “compact” you need to independently install and adjust the shut-off valves, while for a “monoblock” it is already assembled and adjusted by the manufacturer.

Wall-hung toilet: installation features

If the toilet area is small and you want to save space, experts recommend installing a wall-hung toilet model. Installation of such a device is carried out on an installation - a special support frame.

The installation technology for a wall-hung toilet includes the following steps:

1. Installation selection. It is usually supplied with a tank, a flush button, the necessary pipes and adapters. The bowl can also be included or will have to be purchased separately.

   The installation usually includes a tank, adapters and pipes

2. Determining seat height. Installation of the installation is possible only on a solid wall, which can support a weight of about 400 kg, so it cannot be installed on a plasterboard structure. The toilet seat is usually installed at a height of 40–48 cm, it all depends on the height of the users - you need to make sure that everyone is comfortable.
3. Marking. Mark the central axis of the installation and determine its distance from the adjacent wall. It should provide convenient connection of water supply and sewerage, so it is usually at least 14 cm. The tank is placed at a height of 1 meter from the floor.

   The height of the wall-hung toilet above the floor should be 40–48 cm

4. Drilling holes. In the marked places, holes are made into which dowels are inserted.
5. Installation of the installation housing with a plastic tank. It must be set in a vertical and horizontal plane, so be sure to use a building level. Adjustment is made by changing the height of the legs.

   Using adjustable legs, the installation can be leveled

6. Installing a drain button. It can be mechanical or pneumatic.
7. Communications liner. Plumbing is usually done using rigid pipes, as they are more durable and reliable. The pipes of the tank are fixed with clamps and the sewer outlet is mounted at an angle of 45 o.
8. Installation of the bowl. It is attached to the studs using a shock-absorbing gasket. Connect the bowl and pipes of the tank. Check the operation of the toilet.

   

   The installation structure is most often finished with moisture-resistant plasterboard

Video: installation of a wall-hung toilet

System health check

Regardless of what type of toilet you installed, before you start using it, you need to check the functionality of the system. This is not difficult to do: you need to turn on the water and wait until the tank is filled. After this, the water is drained and all connections between the toilet and the water supply and sewer system are inspected.

If there are no leaks, then everything is fine. If leaks are found in some connections, it is necessary to check and correct the seals and perform a control drain of water again. It is also necessary to check the reliability of the toilet; it must be firmly secured.

Typical errors and ways to eliminate them

When installing a toilet on their own, home craftsmen may make typical mistakes, which you can also eliminate with your own hands:

If you do not fasten the toilet tightly, this can soon lead to a violation of the tightness of the connections, as well as to its damage.

Video: editing errors

Almost any DIYer can install a toilet on his own. To do this, you need to choose the right type of toilet and install it accordingly. If you strictly follow the instructions and recommendations of specialists, then a toilet installed by yourself will perform the necessary functions for a long time and reliably.

Today it is difficult to imagine a bathroom without such an important and necessary plumbing device as a toilet. Many people have already had to install it, or at least watch a professional do it. If you just have to do this work, then you should familiarize yourself with all the intricacies and learn the technology for proper installation. It is also very important to know what is needed - what materials and devices may be needed. The final result and the lifespan of the device will depend on how well you prepare.

Necessary materials for installing a toilet

At first it may seem that installing a toilet to communications is a fairly simple process that anyone can do. However, it is very easy to make a mistake in this matter, which can be costly. If you do not read the instructions and act inattentively, the equipment may be damaged. This should under no circumstances be allowed to happen. Let's take a closer look at what tools and materials you will need for your work:

1. Corrugated pipe, which is used to connect the toilet to the sewer system.
2. Flexible hose of a certain length. Through it, cold water will be supplied to the tank.
3. Ball valve, with which the water supply will be adjusted.
4. Silicone sealant. All joints and joints are treated with it.
5. A sealing tape required to seal the inlet pipe of the water supply system if it has an internal thread.
6. Cement for leveling bathroom floors, if necessary.
7. Toilet fasteners, which most often come with the product. It usually comes with bolts, plastic dowels, spacers and bolt caps, and screws.

If the toilet package does not include all these devices, you will need to purchase them yourself.

List of tools for plumbing installation

But installing a toilet on a tile slab cannot be done without the following tools:

• Hammer or drill;
• Drills of two types – for concrete and for ceramics;
• An adjustable wrench, which is used to install the hose;
• A core for chips on ceramic tiles, it will reduce the sliding of the drill;
• Hammer for driving dowels;
• Rubber spatula to remove excess silicone sealant;
• A pencil, which will have to outline the contour of the base of the toilet, and also mark the places where the bolts are attached;
• The screwdriver you will use to tighten the fasteners.

If you are not just installing a new toilet, but are replacing it, you will also have to dismantle the old device. And in this case, you may also need to level the damaged floor surface. Be that as it may, before starting work, be sure to disconnect the plumbing fixture from the water supply system.

How is a toilet installed?

After all finishing work has been completed and the floor surface has been leveled, installation begins. In order to connect the plumbing fixture to the sewer system, a corrugated pipe is needed. One end of it is put on the toilet drain pipe, and the other on the sewer outlet pipe.

It’s good if the pipe outlet coincides with the drain, then you can do without a corrugated pipe. Here the connecting element is a rubber seal with edging. If you want to use a sealant, then under no circumstances cement the place where the drain goes into the sewer.

How to ensure water flow to the cistern? You will need a flexible hose. It is screwed onto a water tap that supplies water to the inlet of the tank. Then you need to make sure that the diameter of the fasteners on both ends of the hose is the same.

Once the connection is made, you can begin to mount the device to the floor or wall. This depends on the type of plumbing fixture. Of course, the toilet needs to be assembled first. When the base is securely mounted into the floor, a tank is attached to it and a pipe is supplied from the hanging tank, which is fixed to the wall.

After this work is completed, you need to test the operation of the device and also adjust the tank. To do this, turn on the water, which should fill the tank. By adjusting the float, adjust the water level that you need. Then water can be constantly collected in a certain amount. The lid is attached. To do this, in the upper area of ​​the bowl on the side from the wall, fasteners are mounted in the holes provided by the manufacturer.

Features and methods of fixing the toilet

Now we know what is needed to install a toilet and it’s time to consider the process of installing the plumbing fixture in its rightful place. There are three main ways to install a toilet to the floor:

• Fastening using dowels or anchors that are poured into the screed;
• Fastening to a wooden base, which was mounted in a screed using screws;
• Fastening to the floor with epoxy resin.

Professionals offer the following tips for installing a toilet in all these cases. Consider the option of fastening using anchor bolts, as well as on a wooden base. It is very convenient if at the same time a major renovation of the bathroom floor is being carried out. Then these two procedures can be combined while the screed is being formed on the floor.

Anchors are placed in the place where the device is to be placed and where it is supposed to be fastened. They should protrude 5-6 cm above the surface of the screed. It will be better if you have to cut off the excess than the length of the anchors is not enough. Then it will be impossible to fasten the nut to it.

The wooden stand must fully correspond to the size and contours of the base. Following a checkerboard pattern, nails are driven into it over the entire area. They should come out from the other side. Now the board can be turned over and installed where the toilet will be located.

The screed is poured with concrete so that only the outer side of the stand is visible on the surface. The toilet is placed on the base and screws are inserted into the holes. If you need to fix the toilet on a tiled floor, then resort to the following technique. To prevent cracking of the tiles, rubber washers are placed on the dowels and anchors. This will also help against unsightly rust stains on the floor. In this case, it is best to choose anchors or bolts with a nickel plated finish. This way, it will be easy for you to remove the fasteners when they fail and need to be replaced.

If you are not changing the tiled floor, and there is no way to mount the device in the screed, then what is required to install the toilet in this case? It would be ideal to install it using dowels or epoxy resin. In this case, the coating will not be damaged.

In order to use dowels, you must first make holes through the tiles and screed, where you will screw the screws. To ensure that the waterproofing of the floor is not compromised, it is important to correctly calculate the depth of the holes. If the screed is too thin, you need to pour a little silicone sealant into these holes. It is better that the screws are “dressed” in rubber washers, then they will not scratch the floor during the tightening process.

It is better if the base of the toilet and the floor are separated by a layer of sealant. It must be applied before tightening the bolts. If you don't want to use any fasteners, then resin will help you out. This method is also suitable if the installation will be carried out on a wall.

Before applying the resin, the floor must be sanded using sandpaper. This will roughen the surface and help the two surfaces bond better. The adhesive base is applied to the toilet and the floor in a thin layer, just a couple of millimeters. Do not touch the toilet until the resin has completely dried.

Installation of a wall-hung toilet

Lately it has been gaining more and more popularity. It is easy to install it yourself. The advantage of this installation is that there are no unsightly marks left on the floor from the fastenings or any traces at all. The toilet is mounted on a frame made of metal profiles. It is installed on a load-bearing wall. The tank and pipes can easily be hidden behind a false plasterboard wall.

If the frame is not provided for in the design, then the toilet can be attached directly to the wall. But then, most likely, you will have to move the sewer pipe inside the wall. The device is mounted using anchors.

A toilet is a thing that, depending on the number of people in the family, is used with enviable regularity. And although manufacturers make it quite durable, there are nevertheless a number of reasons why the toilet needs to be replaced. For example, the ceramics have become unsightly or the toilet mechanism has broken down, plus there is the natural physical and moral wear and tear of things. Therefore, the question of how to install a toilet is of interest to many who have not escaped the problem of replacing a toilet.

Types of toilets

The plumbing products market offers all types of toilets, which differ according to special characteristics:

• according to the configuration of the outlet drain: horizontal, oblique, which is located at an angle of 45 degrees and vertical;
• according to the shape of the bowl: visor-shaped, where the walls have a different angle of inclination, plate-shaped with an internal platform and funnel-shaped, which is considered the most practical option.

Before you begin, you need to figure out how to properly install the toilet, depending on the main toilet systems, the disassembly of which can have significant differences:

• Mounted or wall-mounted. With this design, the plumbing fixtures do not touch the floor, but are only attached to the installation - a special wall system that can withstand any load. Aesthetically, everything looks attractive, because... all communications are hidden. However, installing such a structure requires significant financial costs, the smallest repair turns into a huge problem, and the question of how to install a toilet with your own hands remains open.
• Attached. With this system, the toilet is attached to the floor, and the cistern with all communications is hidden in the wall. The plus is the appearance of such a device, and the minus is the difficult repair of hidden parts.
• In-floor. This system is used in public toilets, when installation is done directly into the recess of the floor. However, for apartments and houses this option remains unacceptable to many.
• Floor-standing. The most popular standard designs are with a toilet attached to the floor and an adjacent cistern. An undeniable advantage of such technologies is the ability to install and repair a toilet yourself, without the help of specialists.

Installing a new toilet, regardless of the specific type of product, consists of two stages:

• removing the old toilet;
• installation of a new product.

Dismantling the toilet

When removing an old toilet, special precautions must be taken to avoid water leakage, which in the worst case scenario will require further renovation measures. Therefore, to avoid common mistakes, below is a step-by-step guide for non-professionals.

Shut off water

The first step in removing a toilet is to turn off the water. This can be done by simply turning off the tap. However, there are situations when valves are no longer used for a long time, and they manage to rust. In this case, you should shut off the main riser and change the faucet at the same time during the repair process.

Advice! To prevent taps from rusting, they should be used for preventative maintenance at least once a year.

After turning off the tap, you should completely drain the water from the tank.

Disconnecting the water supply hose

On the side of the cistern there is a flexible hose through which water flows for flushing. It is fastened with ordinary nuts, which are unscrewed very simply.

Removing the cistern

The flush tank is attached to the toilet with two long bolts. In order to unscrew them, you first need to remove the tank cap. Then, if necessary, blot off excess moisture with a sponge (if there is water left inside, it will definitely spill onto the floor through the holes of the removed bolts). A situation may arise when the screws become rusty, because... have been in contact with water for many years, then a special anti-rust product will help.

After loosening the bolts, you should carefully remove the drain tank, rocking it in different directions to ensure even removal.

The toilet, as a rule, is attached to the floor with several bolts (an option is when a wooden board is first placed under the toilet). To make the work process easier, you first need to remove the toilet lid. Then be sure to put rags on the floor or place a bucket. The toilet has a water seal where water is constantly present - this is a kind of barrier against unpleasant odors from the general sewer system. When removing plumbing fixtures, a fair amount of liquid spills out, which can result in flooding your neighbors.

Then you need to unscrew the bolts at the base of the toilet. If they are rusty, then you need to use a special tool or cut them off with a grinder.

You need to go along the entire base line with a sharp knife or blade, because... Often the joint between the toilet and the floor is coated with sealant.

The attachment to a common sewer pipe is very often fixed with cement. In order to get rid of it, you can use a drill with a medium drill.

Important! To avoid breathing gases from an open sewer, before removing the toilet, you should prepare a homemade plug, for example, old rags. After quickly cleaning the pipe from construction debris, you must immediately plug the hole with a prepared rag.

Now the old toilet can be removed, and this completes the dismantling work.

Removing a wall hung toilet

When dismantling a wall-hung toilet, the procedure is approximately the same:

• first you need to loosen the bolts that hold the toilet in the wall installation;
• then disconnect the toilet from the cistern and the general sewer system;
• finally remove the toilet.

Before directly installing the plumbing product, it is necessary to perform some actions:

• Take accurate measurements of the old toilet to avoid unnecessary problems when purchasing and subsequently installing a new one. You also need to pay attention to the length of the bowl so that it does not accidentally block the door.
• Choose a brass fastener that does not corrode. However, some metal toilet bolts have a yellowish zinc coating that makes them look like brass, so the product should be checked carefully.
• Repair or good.

When installing a toilet, you can use one of three methods:

• Taffeta fastening. With this installation method, taffeta is placed under the base of the toilet. This is a special hardwood board pre-treated with drying oil. It should be laid either flush with the floor or slightly higher than it. The taffeta must be secured with anchors and the installation site must be filled with cement. After the solution has completely dried, you can begin installing the toilet. All joints with the sewer pipe should be treated with sealant and sealed with tow, and the base of the toilet should be screwed to the prepared area with screws. Then attach the drain tank and check the tightness of the system.
• Connection with glue. One of the easiest ways is to fix the toilet with epoxy glue. To do this, you need to thoroughly clean the contacting surfaces, and then degrease them with one of the substances - solvent, acetone or white spirit. After this, you need to roughen them for greater adhesion and repeat the degreasing procedure. Then dry. The next step is to connect the flush cistern to the toilet. Then you need to apply a thin layer of epoxy glue to the floor, place a plumbing product on it and press it well (you can just sit on the toilet). The glue must dry for at least 12 hours.
• Dowel installation. Proper installation of the toilet is easy with dowel mounting. This practical method involves fixing the toilet directly to the floor, without first installing additional structures under its “leg”.

Installing a toilet with your own hands will consist of several steps:

1. Preliminary fitting. You need to place the toilet on the prepared floor and check for discrepancies between the height of the neck and the waste pipe. It is also necessary to check the angle of inclination. If necessary, correction should be made.
2. Design markings. First, you should measure the width of the room and find the middle, which will be the axis of the toilet. Install a toilet on it, approximately 10-15 cm from the outlet pipe of the waste pipe. Then, you can insert a marker into the mounting holes and make the appropriate marks. At the end you need to circle the base.
3. Assembling the drain tank. In accordance with the instructions in the instructions, you need to assemble the tank and then screw it to the toilet. To check the quality of the work done, you can reconnect all communications and perform a test run. After a successful experiment, you need to drain the water again and continue the process of replacing the toilet.
4. Preparing mounting holes. In the places marked with a marker, you need to make holes using an impact drill or hammer drill. Then hammer plastic dowels into them.
5. Corrugation sealing. First you need to wipe the pipe dry with a rag and apply silicone in waves to the ribbed rubber hidden in the drain pipe. The same actions must be carried out from the opposite end of the corrugation, treating the area that fits onto the neck of the toilet bowl.
6. Connecting the device to the sewer. First, part of the corrugation (to the edge of the elastic) needs to be inserted into the sewer pipe. On the opposite side, firmly place it on the toilet outlet. Then, on the place previously outlined with a marker, you need to lay a special rubber gasket or apply a good ball of silicone.
7. Equipment installation. Initially, you need to place the toilet in the prepared place, press it and screw it to the floor. Excess silicone formed during installation can be cleaned with a wet cloth, running it along the contour of the device.

This completes the installation. Now you can carry out a test run of water. If the work was carried out without errors, then the tank will be filled with water to the required level and its flow will stop. There should be no overflow. After draining the water, the process should be repeated without failure. You should also carefully check that the newly installed structure is not leaking anywhere. If everything meets the above criteria, then the installation can be considered successful.

In recent years, the wall-hung toilet has become very popular, so the issue of installing a wall-hung toilet is more relevant than ever. Installation of such plumbing equipment is carried out on the wall without any fastenings or contacts with the floor. In order to securely fix the toilet, you first need to build a metal frame. It is attached directly to the load-bearing wall, and the toilet itself is attached to it. This applies if the tank and pipes need to be hidden behind a plasterboard wall. In some versions, a wall-mounted toilet with an open tank can be mounted directly on the wall. But then it will be necessary to press the sewer pipe into the thickness of the wall. The fastening itself is done using anchors that are mounted into the wall or frame.

Installing a toilet on a tiled floor

The tiles should always be intact and beautiful, regardless of the workflow for installing the toilet. There are unspoken rules for this, a list of which is given below:

• When installing the toilet, be sure to put rubber gaskets under the anchor nuts and dowels. They will prevent cracks in the toilet when tightened and prevent rusty streaks on the ceramic tiles.
• If the tiles are already laid, then the best solution would be to attach the toilet with epoxy resin or dowels.

Important! You cannot make deep holes for dowels, because... the waterproofing layer can be damaged, which in turn can lead to more serious problems.

Completion involves: 1. Selecting and purchasing a new toilet; 2. Dismantling the old toilet; 3. Preparing the surface for fastening; 4. Installation of a toilet; 5. Complete set and installation of the tank; 6. Crimping
All of the above points are interconnected, they can be said to be inseparable.

I will analyze each separately in detail. You must read it carefully and put it into practice, and what the result turns out to be is entirely up to you and your conscientious attitude towards completing the task.
So, first things first.

Choosing and purchasing a toilet

Toilets are divided:

By purpose

- children's (small in size, decorated in various colors, widespread use in preschool institutions)
— for people with disabilities (added handrails, armrests, have a wide bowl, adjustable in height)
- universal (used by people regardless of gender and age).

By size

- height
- width
- length

By installation

- hanging
- floor
In turn, they are divided into wall and corner.

By release

- oblique (at an angle)
— horizontal (into the wall)
— vertical (to the floor)

By design

- retro
- modern
- hi-tech

According to case material

- San faience
- san porcelain
- metal
- a natural stone

To install the tank

- mounted
- on the toilet
- hidden
The tanks, in turn, differ in flush modes: double, normal, economical.
As well as water supply: from below, from the side, from behind.

And finally by color

Here, as they say, “it depends on the taste and color...” The color scheme presented on the market today exceeds all expectations; if you wish, you can even find burgundy grey.

I will not dwell on all the parameters; we will consider the most important in my opinion for this article, namely: the direction of the toilet bowl release, and the dual tank flush mode.

Toilet outlet direction

Look at how your sewer pipe intended for the toilet is located; it can be in the floor, or from the wall, or come out at an angle. It is logical to purchase a model whose release is most coaxial with the socket, thereby avoiding refraction and rationally saving the free space of the bathroom.
In the photo, visually what I’m talking about:
Agree that in this case a toilet with an oblique outlet is more suitable; it would be at least two hundred to three hundred millimeters closer to the wall. I have encountered such situations more than once, and not even twice; during my career I installed a “car and a small cart” toilets. You come to order, and there the toilet has already been purchased, the socket of the sewer tee is often cast iron, so it is completely impossible to turn it into the position you need. The customer shrugs, saying, “I didn’t even think about it.” What to do in this case? He really shouldn’t run to change. Something has to be sacrificed, as in the photo - usable space.
But if you are reading the article, you should not make such a mistake.

Attention

In the store, when purchasing, unpack the box and carefully inspect the toilet and tank for cracks and chips.
Inspect carefully the internal cavities of both the tank and the toilet.
Inspect the toilet outlet, both outside and inside.
Check with the seller whether the kit includes: a seat, mounting to the floor (wall). If the configuration does not include a seat, select according to the shape.
If you have a delivery, then inspect the product with the courier.

If a defect is visually detected, refuse the purchase; believe me, it will be very disappointing to notice puddles gathering on the floor after installing the device. Consider all the work to be a waste.
Here, buy a flexible connection (hose) to connect to the water pipe. If you do not have a tap that separately shuts off the water to the tank, then I strongly recommend purchasing and installing one.

Toilet cistern

Basically, cisterns come complete with a toilet, I think you can decide for yourself which option is most suitable for you - mounted, mounted on the toilet, or hidden.
I will only focus on the possibility of some of them functioning in two modes. This means that they have a bifurcated button, by pressing a certain one you can regulate the drainage of water. I don’t see any point in explaining when which displacement is appropriate.
Some manufacturers provide the ability to independently set the displacement, varies
- 6 and 3 liters
- 9 and 4.5 liters
— 4.5 and 3 liters
- 4 and 2 liters
The efficiency of water consumption is obvious.

Removing an old toilet

The toilet is an irreplaceable device, it is a burden to do without it for a long time, so it is advisable to start this work in the morning, in order to have time if you need to purchase any parts; stores are open until a maximum of nineteen hours.

First thing— make sure the water supply is turned off, unscrew the liner, drain all the water from the tank and remove it. On toilets, you don’t have to remove the compact, but we’ll send it to the trash heap as is. We inspect the integrity of the socket of the sewer tee, into which the outlet neck of the toilet is usually embedded with concrete, make sure that there are no cracks; if they are present, we dismantle them with caution.

We unscrew the attachment of the toilet to the floor, or cut it off with a grinder (which is more common) and try to loosen it. It’s not possible to loosen it, we break the neck with the sharp end of a hammer in close proximity to the socket, the blows are not strong, but there’s no point in being liberal here.
We split it, removed the pot, and took out the whole thing. To avoid injury from fragments of earthenware, sweep the bathroom.

Second step— caulking of the cast-iron socket, that is, we remove from it the remains of the neck and everything with which it was sealed there. I use a hammer and a steel-handled screwdriver for this. Wearing safety glasses, we get rid of foreign materials using simple manipulations. Remember, the more thoroughly the inner surface of the socket is cleaned, the less likely it is that there will be a leak in this area when using the newly installed toilet.
We strive for this result:

But what if such a “surprise” awaits us - an additional rise? And you need to remove it, well, it’s a “bleed from the nose,” but we are pursuing the goal of installing the toilet professionally, and the size of the bathroom directly depends on this.

I’ll say right away, get ready to sweat and be nervous. But... the eyes are afraid, but the hands do.

Attention

Under no circumstances should we grab a hammer, everything is explained simply - cast iron is very fragile, and from blows it can easily burst in any other place, but not where we would like it to. Violating this rule can lead to costly and time-consuming problems.

To help, we take a hammer drill with a drill with a diameter of 5-6 millimeters, and in the “drill-drill” mode we drill as many holes as possible around the entire circumference, directing it (the drill) into the groove between the socket of the tee and the pipe - the stand-in.

Sometimes, the location of this hemorrhoid does not allow for free drilling, in this case we cut it off with a grinder and position it in close proximity to the socket, but remember: by cutting it off you lose the opportunity to loosen it, so to speak, therefore we resort to this as a last resort, but for now we drill it and burn it out.

Burning is appropriate if the cavity was caulked or filled with sulfur; if it is filled with concrete or lead, the method does not work.

Before starting burning, we ensure that the room is sufficiently ventilated and that there are no flammable products or materials nearby. The video will clearly show how this is done:

If it doesn’t help, then there is only one option left to get rid of this damn stick: cut it out. For this we use a grinder (angle grinder) or electric welding.

The technology is as follows: we cut off the stand at the bell itself, visually find the thin place of the “remainder” and aim specifically at it. We put a small circle (already ground off during other work) on the grinder and make cuts from the inside. You make two cuts close to each other in the thinnest place, trying to cut along the entire length of the “remnant”, that is, there, deep into it. You can cut out a fragment like a scarf, knock it out with a screwdriver and a hammer, and then, by tapping with a hammer, tear off the remaining piece from its “home” place. If you continue to have difficulties with removal, you can also make a cut from the inside in a place that is most convenient. That's all, the caulking is over.

Guys, if anyone has encountered such difficulties, but does not have the skills to use an angle grinder, then here is a link to a photo gallery, I found it on the Internet, everything step by step:
Disassembling cast iron fan pipes turned out to be a problem
And what awaits us next step.

Preparing the surface for fastening

The toilet was installed on a hard surface - great, but we will look at the most common option for attaching old toilets - on taffeta.
Taffeta is a board fifty millimeters thick embedded in the floor; in the old days, it was on it that the toilet was attached with screws or nails. Our task is to remove it (provided that it is rotten, which is often), everything is used: a hammer, a screwdriver, a hammer drill, in general, you will sort out this issue. Remove the taffeta and clean the released cavity. Place the involved instrument aside.

We mix a solution from a mixture of sand and cement, the proportions depend on the brand of cement and the recommended ratio, for example M-400 - here is one part cement to four parts sand, my advice to you is to dilute one part cement to three parts sand, the goal is faster hardening .
We fill the cavity with the solution evenly with the floor surface, but we don’t have time to wait for it to set, it takes up to three days, and the pot is needed practically every hour.
Each apartment has a stove, be it electric or gas, take the baking sheet out of the oven and place it on top of the cemented area.

Have a broom handy? We sweep away the trash. Remember - a mess in the workplace leads to injuries.
Let's move on to the next stage.

Toilet installation

Our goal is to install the device as close to the sewer as possible, and with minimal use of intermediate parts, especially those forming bends (turns). This doesn’t always work out, just below I’ll post pictures of fittings that you can “play with”. For now, let's look at the connection directly.
We will connect it with the pipe shown in the picture. We smear the cuff of the pipe with technical petroleum jelly or just water, put it on the outlet neck, put a mark on the outlet to what depth the pipe has sat and remove it.
We place the toilet as close as possible to the socket of the tee, sit down on the side and, using our imagination, draw the trajectory of the coaxiality of the toilet outlet and the inlet sewer. By moving the device further or moving it closer, we achieve the best compatibility - this is especially true when the bell is at an angle. Have you achieved it? Throw the tank over and make sure it fits without resting against the wall.
We take a tape measure and place the beginning deep into the socket of the sewer tee, and on the mark that was placed from the fitting of the pipe on the neck there will be the size we need. We set aside this size on the pipe and cut off the excess with a grinder, chamfering the place where the cut was made. That's it, the connecting part is ready.

Now we need a transition cuff marked 110*123, coat it on the outside, and coat the cleaned sewer socket along the inner perimeter with plumbing sealant, tapping with a hammer and hammer the cuff inside the socket.
There is another point: before applying the cuff, place the cuff in place and make sure that it will fit; it may be necessary to cut out a small fragment from it; the full size will not fit. If this is the case, then the cuff cut will need to be placed at the highest point of the socket.
Next: coat the cuff driven into the tee from the inside with sealant, press the pipe until it stops. We coat the neck of the toilet bowl and insert it into the pipe. All the pot is in place.

He promised a picture of the parts used for misalignment, this is what they look like:

If it’s impossible to do without this, then head to a specialized store that sells plumbing fixtures. There are also corrugated pipes for toilets on sale, there are reinforced and non-reinforced, if any one suits you, then please use it, but this is not an ideal connection option.

At the beginning of the article, I recommended purchasing a faucet, I hope you initially screwed it onto the outlet of the water pipe for the tank, if not, now is the time, we will need a bucket of water. We throw it into the toilet and visually verify the tightness of the joints; if there is a “jamb”, then we eliminate it at this stage. We achieve tightness.

Let's move on to the next step.

Complete set and installation of the tank

The new toilet comes with instructions, study it and assemble the tank in accordance with it; if all the fittings on it are already screwed on, just make sure it is tight and tighten it if necessary. Don’t be too zealous; after all, you’re dealing with plastic.

I will not dwell on the device, the topic of a separate article, and the components of different manufacturers differ slightly from each other. The principle of operation is the same: water inlet, with a float that stops its supply when the set displacement is reached, and a drainage device (some have dual-mode and are adjustable, as mentioned earlier). In general, assemble according to the instructions. I’ll just tell you one thing: at the junction of the tank with the toilet there is a gasket, so it’s not always appropriate to coat it with sealant, but only when it’s impossible to do without it, whether it’s necessary or not, pressure testing will reveal. Initially we don’t smear it. We put the tank on and tighten it to the toilet with the mounting bolts provided for this purpose, tighten it alternately, with uniform force.

Here is a video in which the guy explains in detail how to set up the various tank fittings:

Crimping

Using an adjustable wrench, we connect the cold water supply to the tank with a flexible line, tightening the hose fitting on the tank inlet device and hold it with your hand from the inside. It is important to prevent the fittings from touching both each other and the walls of the tank.

Open the tap and monitor the filling. The video explains how the outlet overflow and float are adjusted, using simple movements above - below, set the filling and draining modes that are convenient for you. We make sure that the float shuts off the water until it reaches the overflow limit.

By pressing the release button, we drain the entire displacement to the maximum, carefully inspect the connections:
— flexible connection with an inlet device
- inlet valve with reservoir body
- cistern with toilet through gasket
- bolts securing the tank to the toilet using conical gaskets
— outlet (neck) of the toilet with a pipe (corrugation, eccentric)
- pipe (corrugations, eccentric) with cuff
— cuffs with a sewer tee socket
- toilet and baking tray

If you conscientiously follow the steps described above, the plumbing fixture simply must work flawlessly. If the presence of leaks and puddles has been visually determined, it is natural to eliminate them.

Three examples of, so to speak, unforeseen, but possible leaks:

1. I, and many plumbing gurus, advise not to initially coat the rubber gasket located between the tank and the toilet with sealant. This is inappropriate not at all out of fear of getting everything dirty or “hand-to-hand” - nonsense. The explanation is simple: when coated, it slides, and when you try to tighten the fastening bolts, it moves out of its proper place.
So, if a leak is detected from this place, you should remove the tank, wipe dry the surface where the gasket adheres to the toilet and the gasket itself. Coat one side of the gasket with silicone sealant with a layer of 2 - 3 mm and carefully, aligning the holes, put it in place, lightly press down along the entire perimeter. Wait for the time required for the sealant to “set” - this is about half an hour - you can drink tea, then apply the same layer over the gasket and carefully place the tank in its place and tighten it. Ninety-five percent of achieving a positive result.

2. A thin stream of water constantly flowing into the toilet:
Having looked inside the tank, we make sure that the edge of the water does not reach the upper boundary of the overflow tube; if this is normal, then there may be several reasons for the leak:
— the cone gasket located under the pressure nut of the overflow tube is missing or jammed;
— the seat is not tightly attached to the tank body, or the surfaces of the seat gasket contact areas are rough; coating the gasket with sealant will get rid of the problem;
- crack in the seat body;
— uneven fit of the “pear” to the plane of the saddle;

3. Puddle on a baking sheet
In all likelihood, in this case, there is a crack (microcrack) in the toilet body.

Well, let’s not talk about the sad things, they pressured us, everything is fine with us. The only task left is to secure our toilet to the floor.

You will have to do this after two to three days - the time required for the solution to harden. Before this, we naturally use the device with caution, because it is not stable.
Turn off the water, lower the tank, slightly lift the toilet, and pull out the baking sheet. We position the toilet, if it has been accidentally moved, mark the places for drilling with a pencil or marker. We move the toilet to the side, drill holes with a hammer drill, drive in plastic dowels, put it in place and screw it on. We attract without using much effort.

In case of an uneven fit to the floor, I recommend a gasket, which is an excellent piece of linoleum.
To avoid unsanitary conditions - accumulation of small particles of debris, we coat the entire perimeter of the toilet seat with the floor with silicone sealant.
That's all, our irreplaceable plumbing fixture is installed and ready for many years of use.

Tools used during installation:

So, theoretically, we have completed the task. Having considered the whole process step by step, we have an idea of ​​the tool we need. Prepare in advance:
- hammer and screwdriver with iron handle
- adjustable wrench (Swedish)
— open-end wrenches 10*12, 13*14
- roulette
— hammer drill with 5-6 mm drill
— for those who do not have the skills to use, we replace the grinder with a metal blade, if necessary, a drill with drills with a diameter of 5-6 mm.
- plumbing sealant, linen or fum tape

The following articles may be useful for successfully completing the work described:

Well, that’s all, dear reader, do you still want to install the toilet yourself? I told you how installation is done professionally. Once again, weigh your options, think about whether it’s worth getting involved with this, maybe it’s easier to pay a plumber a third of the cost of the pot, and calmly drink beer in front of the TV??
And then I see tons of articles on the Internet, like, install it yourself, there are no difficulties, everything is elementary and simple... Yes, it’s simple, but all this needs to be done, and not done anyhow.
I'll tell you this: everyone should mind their own business and earn what they can, and not count other people's money.

If you have any questions or have something to add to the article, you are welcome to add them to the comments section.
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And that’s all for me today, good luck with the installation, best regards