How to pour a polymer floor over large areas. Do-it-yourself polymer self-leveling floor - types, technology and video on the device. Types and classification of self-leveling floors

In recent years, the demand for polymer floors has increased several times. This popularity of the material is due to the good technical and decorative properties of the coating. Installing polymer floors with your own hands is quite simple if you strictly follow the recommendations. experienced specialists which are presented below.

General information about polymer mixtures

The self-leveling coating is a polymer composition that is used as a finishing finish for the rough base. It can be laid on mineral, wood, ceramic and even metal surfaces. For residential premises, polyurethane mixtures are most often used, since they have good aesthetic characteristics, as well as excellent thermal insulation.

All types of finishing filling solutions are divided into two large categories:

1. Leveling – applied and leveled manually using a spatula and a needle roller;
2. Self-leveling– solutions that are liquid in consistency and spread over the coating with virtually no auxiliary tools.

The thickness of the laid “liquid” coating can vary from 1 to 9 mm. According to many experienced craftsmen, for residential premises a layer of 1.5-3 mm will be optimal.

Preparatory stage

How to make a self-leveling polymer coating on the floor yourself? Before you begin directly pouring the polyurethane solution, you need to prepare a rough base. The main requirement for coatings for self-leveling floor installation is evenness. To check the “horizontalness”, use a fairly long ruler and a building level. If the height difference per m2 exceeds 3-4 mm, you will have to think about additional leveling of the base.

How to prepare the base? Depending on the type of rough covering, there are several methods of preparing the floor, namely:

1. For concrete pavements
   • The humidity of the cement screed should not exceed 4%;
   • Using a Schmidt hammer and a Dean apparatus, you need to find out the tear strength of the base - at least 1.5-2 MPa and the compressive strength of the material - at least 20-23 MPa;
   • When installing a new screed, it is desirable that its “age” be at least 27-30 days;
   • When repairing an old floor, you need to free the base from paint, previous finishing coat, glue and stains;
   • After this, potholes and chips in the screed are repaired, bumps and cracks are eliminated;
   • Minor irregularities can be eliminated with a grinder, and cracks can be eliminated with an adhesive solution;
   • Then, using a building level, you must again check the “horizontalness” of the concrete screed.
2. For wooden coverings
   • IN in this case humidity allowed wooden floors, logs and plywood at 10%;
   • The subfloor is cleaned of old coating and baseboards, varnish, paint and oil stains;
   • For high-quality cleaning, it is advisable to use a metal scraper, a grinder and a spatula;
   • Any cracks on the surface are cleaned with sandpaper and then puttied;
   • If possible, the floor is leveled using a cement screed or plywood sheets of various thicknesses.
3. For ceramic coatings
   • You can also install polymer self-leveling floors on ceramic tiles, but first of all, you need to check the coating for the presence of tearing elements;
   • If a dull sound is heard while tapping the tiles, the torn tile must be removed and treated with glue and re-attached to the covering;
   • The ceramics are degreased and treated with a primer, after which everything tile joints putty.

Preparation of a polymer solution

One of the most important stages of work is preparation. bulk mixture. The “spreadability” of the solution during the pouring process will depend on the quality of the mix and consistency. To properly prepare the mixture, it is advisable to rely not on the recommendations of “experienced” people, but on the instructions provided by the manufacturer on the packaging.

How to make a high-quality solution?

1. Water is poured into the prepared container according to the instructions;
2. Then the dry polymer mixture is added;
3. Knead the liquid mass for at least 10 minutes using construction mixer or a drill with a butterfly attachment;
4. The prepared solution should be free of any lumps or inhomogeneities.

How to check if the mixture was prepared correctly? For those who are encountering the process of pouring a polymer floor for the first time, a “spreadability” test will be useful. It will allow you to determine whether you did the kneading correctly or not:

1. Cut from small plastic cover bottom;
2. Place it on the floor and pour the polymer composition inside;
3. Carefully lift the lid;
4. If the mixture spreads evenly and forms something like a glass surface, you have prepared the solution correctly.

How much mixture will you need?

One of the main issues when arranging a self-leveling floor is calculating the required amount of solution. On average, processing a m2 of well-leveled base will require no more than 500-600 g of mixture. In this case, the thickness of the “liquid” layer will be approximately 1 mm.

For more precise definition the required amount of material, you can use the following expression: y + (y1-y2)/2 = x, where:

• x – coating thickness;
• y1 – distance from the highest marking point to the base;
• y2 – distance from the lowest marking point to the base;
• y is the permissible thickness of the polymer mixture indicated on the packaging.

Floor markings and wall coverings

How to make a polymer floor with your own hands? Before pouring the solution, it is necessary to mark the base. This is done in order to install pendulums that control the “horizontalness” of the applied mixture. In addition, even if self-leveling compounds are used, they will still have to be directed to the corners of the room.

How are markings made?

1. Pendulums are installed on the surface of the subfloor at a distance of approximately 1 m from each other;
2. When installing the pendulum near a wall, minimum distance should be at least 10-15 cm.

So that during operation finishing coat not cracked, it is advisable to glue damper tape around the perimeter of the entire room. Even in the case of linear expansion, polymer materials will not “press” on the wall, which will not lead to their deformation. The width of the tape should vary from 7 to 10 cm.

Application of polymer solution

About a day after priming the subfloor, the polyurethane solution is poured. How to fill?

1. The prepared solution is poured onto the coating from a bucket at a small height from the floor;
2. To level the mixture, use a fairly wide spatula, and the thickness of the layer is adjusted using a squeegee;
3. The next operation of pouring the solution is done close to the treated area to result in a seamless monolithic coating;
4. The remaining amount of solution is poured in the same way;
5. To prevent air bubbles from remaining in the coating, it is rolled with a needle roller;
6. At the final stage, experts recommend covering the floor with polyethylene to avoid uneven drying of the solution and its cracking.

The process of applying the polyurethane composition to the prepared base is shown in more detail in the video material. To protect the coating from mechanical stress, an additional layer of varnish is applied over the solution.

Review of manufacturers

For high-quality installation of polymer floors, professionals recommend using building mixtures only trusted manufacturers. The best of them include:

• Litokol – Italian company produces dry polymer mixtures of high strength and wear resistance. They contain modifying substances that improve the physical and mechanical properties of the coating;
• Ivsi is one of the the best manufacturers“liquid” floors add fractional sand and mineral components to the mixture, due to which the solution consumption is significantly reduced;
• Bergauf is a company specializing in the production of coatings with improved adhesion properties (more than 1.2 MPa). Acrylic and polymer additives, included in the raw material, improve the spreadability of the solution over the coating. Enough liquid formulations penetrate into the smallest pores on the base and create a perfectly smooth polymer coating.

A more modern and unpretentious coating than polymer self-leveling floors, in modern construction quite difficult to find. This technology It was successfully tested at industrial facilities and reached the private sector.

The general process of their installation requires knowledge of work technology, compliance with safety precautions and care when mixing components.

Technical characteristics and coating features

Polymer self-leveling floor is a modern finishing coating based on polymer compounds, which provide the final material with a whole range of unique properties. The use of polymers in construction is not uncommon, but it was their inclusion in liquid and bulk compositions that made it possible to significantly increase strength, impact and decorative qualities.

Among the advantages of polymer floors are: high term operation, that when correct installation and compliance with the rules of use, is more than 15-20 years. The coating is resistant to high and low temperatures, chemicals and various solvents.

During wear, the polymer floor does not generate dust or emit harmful substances, not subject to combustion and transmission open flame. The elasticity of some types allows the use of such floors in industries and places with a risk of falling heavy objects. Hygiene, environmental friendliness, ease of cleaning and maintenance allow it to be successfully installed in medical and children's institutions, in the household and food industries.

The polymer base can have a glossy and shiny surface, or a completely matte or colored one.

The solidity and absence of seams when installing polymer self-leveling floors eliminates the formation of harmful fungi and the penetration of moisture under the coating. After laying and polymerization, the floor is completely suitable for machine cleaning using any detergents.

The disadvantages of such a floor include the technology of its construction, or rather strict adherence to all technological stages. Quality control must be carried out with each batch and pouring of the liquid mixture. Main disadvantage– this is the lack of possibility of sane repair.

That is, to carry out partial renovation outer covering It is more or less possible, but to eliminate all the cracks and scratches you will need to dismantle and pour a new floor.

Types of coating and choice of composition for the private sector

The general classification of polymer-based floors is based on the type or composition of the coating. The substance included in the composition largely determines the strength, elasticity and wear-resistant qualities of the floor after pouring.

The main types of compositions used for flooring

Polymer self-leveling floors are divided into the following types:

1. Epoxy is the traditional and most common type of self-leveling floor. The final solution is obtained by mixing two components - a colored epoxy base with a hardener. Epoxy flooring is highly durable and resistant to moisture and temperature.
2. Polyurethane is a floor with high elasticity, wear resistance, high point tensile strength and impact. Mainly used for installation in production areas and places with an increased risk of damage to the base. In some cases, it is possible to install it on a wooden surface or base made of wooden floors.
3. Epoxy-urethane - a coating that took useful qualities two main types. It has high abrasion resistance and is mainly used for styling pedestrian paths, transport routes, etc.
4. Cement-polyurethane - used in areas where exposure to aggressive environments in the form of chemical substances, high temperatures or steam. The structure of the floor effectively protects the surface, preventing substances from destroying the supporting base.
5. Methyl methacrylate is the most durable and frost-resistant variety. It is used for installing self-leveling floors in open spaces, in places with a lot of precipitation and natural irritants. It has a complex laying technology and fast polymerization.

Depending on the outer layer, the polymer coating can have a matte, glossy, transparent, rough or decorative surface. Perhaps a combination of a transparent-glossy or rough-matte surface.

For installation in apartments and private houses, polymer epoxy and are usually used. The trains fully meet the requirements for the load generated, possible traffic intensity and cost.

Choosing a polymer floor and possible costs

When choosing a polymer floor covering, you should proceed from the technical characteristics of the room, the type of concrete coating, the level of humidity and the required strength properties.

For example, a decorative polymer self-leveling floor on epoxy based would be better suited for a bathroom or toilet, garage or covered parking near the house, that is, for rooms with high humidity and possible exposure to chemicals.

For installation in a workshop or playground near the house, it is better to choose polyurethane-based solutions, since such a composition, after hardening, copes better with impact loads and exposure to ultraviolet radiation.

A complete set of products for preparing a self-leveling floor from a domestic manufacturer

If we base our comparison on a domestic or foreign manufacturer, then first of all we should focus on the price/quality ratio. No one will argue that most foreign companies offer a higher quality product, but the prices for their formulations are at a completely different level.

Domestic manufacturers, for example “KrasKo” or “TeoKhim”, produce quite competitive mixtures that have proven themselves only with better side. In terms of price to quality ratio, the composition of these companies is much more profitable, since operation for private purposes does not involve the creation of such heavy loads that these floors can withstand.

The cost of both types of polymer self-leveling floors is approximately the same and depends more on the pouring technology, the thickness and method of constructing the underlying layer, and compositions for preparing the base.

On average, the consumption of polymer self-leveling floor per 1 m2 is in the region of 300-500 g for the underlying layer, 1.2-1.7 kg for the leveling and facing layer. This consumption is valid for a thickness of 1 mm when applied to a concrete base treated with primers.

Two-component polyurethane composition from a Russian company

For comparison, we have collected data in a table that shows approximately the price ratio for self-leveling floors of both types from different manufacturers.

General preparation of the surface and necessary tools

The general technology for pouring and installing self-leveling polymer floors consists of preparing the load-bearing base, checking its quality, treating the surface with a primer, applying a base or underlying layer, pouring and leveling the finishing coating.

For grouting cracks, seams and other deep damage, it is better to use only recommended mixtures from the manufacturer

Preparatory actions for working with the base will include the following steps:

• removal of old cladding and floor finishing;
• removal of construction waste, removal of dirt and dust;
• elimination severe damage concrete pavement and deep cracks.

Dismantling of old finishing is carried out using hand tools and handy accessories. Construction waste is collected in thick bags and taken to a landfill. In the presence of greasy stains, drops of paint or oil, use solvents and carefully remove the deposits.

To carry out further work and install polymer self-leveling floors with your own hands, you will need to check the base for the degree of moisture content of the concrete, check its strength and visual inspection for serious damage.

The moisture level or residual moisture content of the concrete for new screeds is checked special equipment. If it is absent, the check can be performed in a simple way– to the surface concrete base glue polyethylene material.

Paint shoes are used for free movement through liquid solutions

If after a day moisture has settled on the film and the floor is wet, then it is necessary to dry the surface for some time and repeat the test. Otherwise, you can check the strength with a sclerometer and perform an inspection.

If there are deep cracks, sinkholes and potholes, they are cleaned, primed and grouted with putty from the manufacturer of the self-leveling polymer coating or with a composition according to its recommendations.

The final stage of preparation is checking the level of differences. This can be done using the usual bubble level with appropriate markings. Permissible deviations should not exceed 2-3 mm per 2-2.5 m of surface. More exact value indicated on the packaging of the polymer floor.

Tool for distributing mortar over the surface of the base

To perform further finishing works You will need to prepare two clean rollers with a pile of 12-16 mm, paint pads and a needle roller, a metal squeegee and a steel spatula up to half a meter wide. When kneading and mixing components, it is recommended to use a drill with an attachment or a mixer with a power of at least 1 kW.

As personal protection It is mandatory to use gloves, construction glasses and overalls. For some floors, the use of a respirator will be required, as they contain volatile components that evaporate during polymerization.

General sequence for two-component mixtures

Carrying out further work on applying primer and coating with your own hands will require preparation working area, where the mixing and preparation of the solution will be performed.

It is better to cover the floor surface plastic film, prepare protective clothing and solvent in case the liquid mixture gets on your skin or spills.

It is advisable to entrust the preparation of the mixture to a separate person who will mix the components while another applies and levels the mixture.

Do-it-yourself polymer self-leveling floors - priming and applying a base layer

Do-it-yourself polymer self-leveling floors are made using the following technology:

Floor installation technology may have a slightly different appearance when using solutions that involve the use quartz sand, application more layers or laying decorative elements.

For example, some compositions involve sprinkling the surface with purified sand already at the stage of priming the base. Others may contain an additional sanding step to improve adhesion, etc.

Currently, construction is an important industry National economy. A special place in this section is given to work on the manufacture of floors in a particular room. Today, a wide variety of materials can be used to build floors: wooden boards, plywood, linoleum, concrete covering. In recent years, the so-called liquid polymer floor has become increasingly popular. It is also called bulk. Unlike ordinary materials it has a number of advantages.

Polymer floors are divided into types such as: epoxy, polyurethane, methyl ethacrylate.

Polymer self-leveling floors are a synthetic coating. Most often it is used in large retail premises, garages, exhibition halls, etc. Very often, polymer self-leveling floors are used in production due to their strength and durability. It is not difficult to make such floors with your own hands. In addition, there are 3D floors. They differ from the previous coating by the presence complex drawings, which not everyone can do with their own hands. Let's take a closer look at how to pour polymer floors, the main stages of work, positive and negative sides of this coverage.

Read also:

: preparation, process and features.

About, how to glue non-woven fabrics meter wallpaper, read .

Advantages and disadvantages of self-leveling floor

Polymer self-leveling floors have a number of positive qualities, due to which they are in great demand.

Firstly, polymer floors are different types(epoxy, polyurethane, methyl ethacrylate), depending on this, they can withstand high temperatures and do not allow water to pass through.

Secondly, despite the use polymer base, they are hygienic, easy to handle and wash. Thirdly, this coating is resistant to various chemical agents.

Fourthly, polymer floors can be glossy or matte, so you can choose the desired design in accordance with the interior of the room. Fifthly, polymer floors contain liquid component, which hardens quickly. This promotes better adhesion of the liquid to any surface, be it wood or concrete. Unlike wooden and concrete bases, this coating is done quickly and without much effort.

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Preparatory work

The difficulty of constructing self-leveling floors is that they require a perfectly flat surface. If the base is made of tiles or tiles, you will have to create some roughness. This can be done using sandpaper or sandpaper. Problems often arise when leveling the base if it is made of wooden boards. To do this, first seal all the irregularities. The unevenness of the subfloor can be clearly seen when dismantling the joists and removing the old covering.

The permissible difference in height of the surface of the self-leveling floor is 4 mm. If possible, you can make a screed from concrete. If you don’t do it, then unevenness and defects can be removed using grinder or whetstone. To determine the evenness of the coating, it is recommended to use a water or building level. It is also advisable to prime the surface. The primer prevents the penetration of moisture and increases the adhesion of the self-leveling floor to the base. After the base is made, slats need to be nailed around the perimeter of the room like a plinth. This is necessary so that the liquid polymer mixture does not spread into the voids between the floor and the wall. The slats are fixed using self-tapping screws, nails (if the wall is wooden) or dowels (if the wall is concrete).

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Mixture preparation and pouring technology

In order to make polymer floors with your own hands, you will need to prepare a working solution. You can purchase the polymer mixture at any hardware store. After this, it must be diluted in water. This is one of the most critical stages of the entire work, since the result of the pour largely depends on the quality of the solution. The mixture must be prepared only according to the instructions included with the product. The mixing process is of great importance. This should be done slowly so that not a single lump remains. In addition, there should be no air bubbles in the solution.

Mixing can be done using a special mixer or improvised means. The next stage of repair is pouring the solution. Liquid polymer It is necessary to apply to the surface from the area of ​​the room farthest from the doors and gradually move towards the exit.

After the polymer self-leveling floor has dried, you can begin applying varnish. Varnish is needed to give the coating a certain shine. In addition, the varnish increases the wear resistance of the material and makes it smoother. The drying time of the polymer mixture is on average about half an hour. But it's best to read the instructions on the package. The varnish is applied only to hard surfaces. It is recommended to paint the floor in two or even three layers. You may not walk on the new self-leveling floor immediately, otherwise marks may remain on it.

And others wooden materials on a solid base, metal, after applying a special primer.

In this article we will talk about how to make self-leveling polymer floors in an apartment, as well as in a garage.

Types of polymer bases

The synthetic coating used in homes, apartments and offices is based on one of the polymers.

Epoxy resin - together with additional components creates a durable, abrasion- and chemical-resistant coating.

A smooth, elastic floor can withstand any deformation.

Methyl methacrylate floors are created by mixing acrylic resins and hardeners. They are highly resistant to ultraviolet radiation and moisture, and unique color combinations are created using dyes. The floor hardens in 2 hours, and its service life is up to 40 years. In front of everyone positive characteristics this type of self-leveling floor is rarely used, the reason for this is high price and harmful fumes arising during the filling process.

Features and Benefits:

1. Hygienic and easy to care for.
2. Resistance to mechanical stress.
3. Seamless filling technology.
4. Possibility to make polymer floors yourself.
5. Variety of colors.
6. Immunity to chemical reagents.
7. The high hardening speed of the self-leveling floor reduces repair time.
8. Durability of use.

Preparing the base

The main requirements for preparing the base are correcting defects and cleaning the surface. If there is old coating, it must be completely removed. The entire area of ​​the subfloor is thoroughly cleaned of debris and dust (you should use a vacuum cleaner). After cleaning, existing defects become clearly visible. Existing cracks and cracks are puttied, the protrusions are knocked down. In the best way surface treatment is considered an application grinding machine. If the polymer floor has to be poured onto ceramic tiles, its surface is deprived of smoothness with sandpaper or sandpaper.

It is necessary to measure the horizontal level of the base: if its difference does not exceed 4 mm, then you can start making a polymer floor. If there are significant level fluctuations, the surface will have to be leveled sand-cement screed and put it aside further work until it dries.

In the vast majority of cases, poor-quality pouring of a self-leveling floor is caused by a poorly prepared base, which causes peeling.

After the screed has dried, a thorough primer is required, which increases adhesion between the base and the self-leveling floor, and also reduces the absorption of the polymer mixture, and, therefore, consumption expensive composition. It is better to apply the primer in two layers, leaving a break of at least 4 hours between them. The composition is applied with a roller. To prevent the liquid mixture of the self-leveling floor from leaking near the wall, this area is taped with damper tape. Also installed along the perimeter of the room wooden slats, which will save space for the expansion joint.

Preparation of the solution

To work you will need:

• Drill with attachment.
• Wide spatula.
• Roller with a needle insert on a long handle.
• Big bucket.

It's time to prepare the working solution. This process is described in the instructions on the packaging; to obtain excellent results, you should strictly follow the manufacturer's recommendations. To create a polymer floor you will need two components, one of which is a hardener. Mixing takes place in a large container. During the reaction, heat is generated, so it is recommended to lower the container where mixing is carried out in advance into a container with cold water to slow down the reaction somewhat.

Beginners can mix the composition in a bucket, pouring two components alternately. An attachment with spatulas is selected for the drill, and when working, it is used low speed mixer. The mixing process takes about two minutes.

Installation

The floor should be poured at a temperature not lower than +10°C; at a lower temperature, chemical processes will slow down and the polymer will not spread well over the surface of the base. Heat will cause the components to cure too quickly and will not allow for a quality pour.

During the curing process, the floor should not be exposed to drafts or direct sun rays. Upper layer The polymer coating should not dry before the rest of the mass, otherwise cracks will appear.

The liquid polymer is poured in a corner far from the entrance and is helped to spread over the surface with a wooden leveler. The work is carried out in strips, without stopping, the composition quickly hardens in the container. It’s good to involve an assistant in this process, because it will be difficult for one person without experience to do everything. During the pouring process, the solution is rolled with a needle roller, which removes air bubbles. The work ends at the entrance to the room. You should not walk on fresh composition, otherwise shoe marks will remain.

After the composition has dried (the process, depending on the polymer, takes several hours or days), the wooden planks around the perimeter are removed, and the seams are filled with sealant and covered with plinth. The final layer of the self-leveling floor is a coating of two layers of varnish, it gives the surface shine and smoothness, and also increases wear resistance. Using different kinds varnish: matte, colorless, glossy or colored - you can achieve the desired effect.

• thin-layer polymer paint coatings;
• concrete impregnation;
• thick-layer polymer coatings with sand.

The most economical option for self-leveling flooring is polyurethane impregnation. This is one of the most reliable types of garage coatings. Externally it resembles varnished concrete. To obtain a more attractive floor covering, color markings can be applied to it.

The first step is to clean the rough surface. If the floor was wooden, then you need to dismantle it along with the logs. By clearing the base of debris and dust, you can evaluate the quality of the subfloor. If there are cracks and chips on it, then this is a bad signal indicating the destruction of the material. All damage to the screed must be repaired.

In some cases, before pouring the self-leveling floor in the garage, you need to perform cement screed. This is advisable if the floor is very broken, there are large differences in height, or if there is no screed as such.

If you do need to make a screed, then pay special attention to the arrangement of waterproofing. In addition, to improve the strength characteristics of the floor in the garage, which is very important in this room, make reinforcement. To do this, you can use galvanized mesh laid in a solution.

After the screed has dried or the existing subfloor has been cleaned, it needs to be primed. For what?

1. The primer will improve the strength of the base.
2. This ensures adhesion of the screed to the polymer floor.
3. Protecting the surface from the appearance/reproduction of microorganisms.

Apply damper tape around the perimeter of the garage, which will serve as a shock-absorbing layer. This is done to the height of pouring the polymer floor.

Now you need to install the beacons/guides. If you have small garage, then you can use corners, pipes or metal profiles as guides. Place them so that the top edges of the guides are in the same plane. For these purposes you can use long screws. Divide the floor into square/rectangular sections. Screw the screws into the tops of the rectangles/squares. To do this, you first need to drill out the tie and insert it into the dowel holes. The beacon should be raised as needed. Do this with a solution.

Now you should prepare the polymer mixture according to the instructions provided by the manufacturer. Mix it thoroughly. For this you can use electric drill with a special mixer attachment. It is important that the drill operates at low speeds, otherwise many air bubbles will form in the mixture. And this will negatively affect the quality of the polymer floor.

Pouring the polymer is quick because it dries quickly. Therefore, the best method for doing this work is to prepare the mixture based on a rectangle/square, aligned with the markers - fill it and level it.

After pouring is completed, you need to roll the mass with a spiked roller. In this way, air and excess moisture trapped in the polymer will be removed. The self-leveling floor can only be used when it is completely dry. The time it takes depends on the temperature in the garage.

There is no need to artificially dry the floor. When the room warms up, a crust forms on the polymer. In this case, the thickness of the self-leveling floor will remain viscous. As a result, the floor in the garage will simply sag over time under the weight of the car.

The work of installing a polymer floor has many complexities and nuances, but it is quite possible to do it yourself. Training videos will help you follow the technology.

Video

The process of pouring the self-leveling floor can be seen in the video below:

Photo

Traditionally, the floor is leveled with cement-sand screed, but it is difficult to work with, and getting a perfectly flat surface is even more difficult. You can make your work easier by using additives that increase the plasticity of the solution, allowing you to achieve flat surface. This technology is called liquid, poured or self-leveling floors, since the solution turns out to be really liquid and is precisely poured. You can select additives yourself, but it is time-consuming and difficult. After all, not only fluidity is important, but also the ability to level, hardening speed and other characteristics. Therefore, a more common way is to use ready-made mixtures, which are selected according to characteristics for specific tasks. With such mixtures you can make a self-leveling floor with your own hands. Not to say that there was an excellent result with self-production simple to achieve, but possible.

One of the varieties of poured floors is polymer, and they can be plain, or they can contain an image. These are so-called 3D floors. They are all applied using the same technology, with their own characteristics. One caveat - polymer floors (and three dee) require an ideal base. On concrete slab it can be made using pouring technology. Therefore, it is imperative to study it.

Technology and sequence of actions

If you start looking for what mixture to buy to make a self-leveling floor with your own hands, you will be confused: there is different compositions With different characteristics. All of them are used in this technology, but for different needs and situations. There are two large groups:

Not so much? But that's not all. In each of these groups there are quick-hardening compositions. On the one hand, this is good: repairs will take less time. On the other hand, if you lack experience (and where can you get it if you are making a poured floor with your own hands for the first time), the speed of hardening can result in the fact that while you stir all the lumps when the composition is congested, it will begin to set and there is no time to level it. There have been cases. For example, we were planning to fill a room of 16 square meters, and mixed two bags of a quick-hardening composition in a large tub. The time from getting into the water to setting is 25 minutes. All lumps were stirred for 15 minutes. The solution was poured onto the floor, but it hardly flowed anymore. We tried to level it, but it almost didn’t work. Then they quickly loaded everything into bags and took it to the trash heap. The conclusion is simple: to avoid such a situation, do not take quick-hardening compounds for your first experiment.

One more nuance. The compositions must be selected in accordance with the operating conditions: for interior or exterior work, if the room is periodically left without heating, frost resistance is needed. For laying heated floors there is also special compounds— the list of characteristics should indicate compatibility with heating.

Now about what self-leveling floors are made of. The composition may be based on cement or gypsum; in rare cases, both components are used, but there are special additives that neutralize the discrepancy (Starateli brand). When purchasing leveling agents and finishing compounds from different companies, pay attention to what they are based on. The fact is that gypsum and cement conflict with each other. They cannot be stacked one on top of the other. If the leveling agent is cement-based, then the finishing composition should also be made of cement. The same rule applies to plaster.

What you need to know

So, the main points and features of the self-leveling floor technology:

If the floor is leveled for laying tiles, laying a leveler is often sufficient. Small differences of up to 4-5 mm are leveled with a layer of tile adhesive. In general, look at the price: what will work out cheaper: pour a layer of liquid flooring or increase the consumption of tile adhesive. Both options are equivalent in terms of performance, so choose the less expensive one. Under all other coverings - laminate, parquet board, bag, linoleum, cork, carpet, etc. — a difference of no more than 2 mm per 1 meter is required. If there is no such result after the leveler, you will have to add another finishing layer.

What do you need

In addition to bags of mixture, you will need some tools and equipment:

Work procedure: making a self-leveling floor with your own hands

The first stage is preparing the base. Everything that can be torn off, beaten off, cleaned off is removed. The cracks are expanded, if they are too large, they are sealed tile adhesive or a dry mixture for filling the floor, diluted with PVA glue. Small ones - up to 3 mm deep - are left without sealing, just cleaned well. Having finished cleaning, they clean everything well and collect dust with a vacuum cleaner.

The second stage is primer. It is better to take a primer from the same company as the liquid floor - a guarantee of compatibility. If you bought another one, check them for compatibility: look in the instructions with what compositions can be used - gypsum or cement based. It is necessary to prime thoroughly, completely saturating the entire base. It is faster to work with a roller on a long stick, but you can also use a brush or even a wide spatula. For loose materials, a single primer is not enough, and after the first has dried, a second, and maybe a third, is applied.

General sequence of work when pouring a floor. Using this technology you make self-leveling floors yourself

Stage three - installation of beacons. Lighthouses are displayed in different ways. First way: how to use metal profiles with a regular screed. You can leave them in the floor, or you can take them out after the solution has set (primary hardening) and fill the holes with the same mixture. Second way : with a certain step, screw the screws into the floor, aligning the caps according to the level. This method is acceptable if you level the solution according to the rule. Then, when pouring, focus on the caps. Third way: make “rails” from a thick, quick-setting floor mortar. Basically, for this purpose they use a “U”-shaped profile for drywall, which is lubricated from the inside with grease. It is laid, back up, on level screws. Place the solution inside with a spatula, filling it to the very top. The trick here is to make sure there are no voids left. There is a modification of this method: along the laid screws, lay a roller of mortar into which to press the lubricated profile. The squeezed out and excess solution is collected; if it does not have time to set, you can try to use it again. Method four: use a laser plane builder.

Stage four - filling. You will have to work quickly: after 40 minutes, most compounds lose their elasticity. Therefore, it is more convenient to work with at least one assistant and two containers for filling. It’s better to measure in advance required quantity water (pour into some containers, the number of which is equal to the number of batches), open the bags with the mixture, put everything in rows. Install a threshold near the door so that the liquid floor does not spill out and you can make it even.

One person mixes the composition - pours in water, pours out the composition and stirs it with an electric drill and stirrer, the second person pours it and levels it out. The one who levels must put a special sole on thin metal rods on the shoes. If you don’t want to buy it, you can make it yourself (example in the photo).

Pour the composition onto the floor in a “snake” pattern. Although it spreads, it doesn’t spread so well that you don’t need to do anything at all. You will have to level, especially if you are laying the starting, coarse leveler in a decent layer. Depending on the chosen method of installing the beacons, you “drive” the solution either with a long mounting rail - as a rule, or with a wide spatula with teeth (if you use a plane builder, it is more convenient for them to work). To avoid crawling with it on your lap, it can be attached to a long handle. Some people prefer to disperse the solution with a toothed roller. With a sufficient layer thickness (from 5 mm) it does a good job; for thinner ones you need either a spatula or a rule. You have to work quickly - you need to fill the entire room before final hardening, and the next portion of the solution is being prepared.

As soon as the next portion of the solution is ready, it is poured out, continuing to level new square, mixing the two zones at the edges. This way the entire surface is filled.

Stage five - waiting and checking the result. After pouring, close the doors - so that there are no drafts - and wait the required time. It's very different. Mixtures with cement take longer to set, with plaster - faster, but usually you can walk on the surface after 12-24 hours.

When the specified period has passed, take the two-meter rule and check the result. When using a coarse leveler, the difference can be 2-5 mm, or can be measured in centimeters. Very much depends on skill. If this is the first time you have made a self-leveling floor yourself, and the differences were less than 10 mm, we can congratulate you on your success. This good result, and the existing unevenness will be leveled by the finishing leveler. It has a finer grain and is better distributed.

If you want a good result, find a good self-leveling mixture. Of course, it will need to be distributed over the surface, but it will level itself. The only disadvantage of this type of composition is their price. In general, it has been noted that the less experience, the more expensive the composition should be used to guarantee a smooth floor.

All the nuances and features of the construction of poured floors are quite well described in the video. There is also a demonstration of how to level the mixture and several brands that are recommended to be used.

Manufacturers of compositions for self-leveling floors

There are many companies on the market, both foreign and domestic. Some compositions are praised by everyone, while others have conflicting reviews. Here you need to understand that those who often encounter this work can, using a composition that is not very good in terms of characteristics, get excellent result. It’s more difficult for beginners: they don’t know how it should be, so they can’t correct it in time if something goes wrong. Therefore, it is unlikely that you will be able to save money: to get a good result you will have to buy a composition for self-leveling floors with a very good characteristics and reviews. And these are expensive brands.

Here is a list of manufacturers and compositions, with a brief description:

• Bolars is inexpensive, but difficult to work with.
• ‘Prospectors – reviews vary.
• Pyramid - little experience.
• CERESIT CN78 - easy to work with, the surface is smooth, but expensive.
• IVSIL TIE-ROD-II is a self-leveling mixture based on gypsum; other compositions level a little worse.
• BROZEX NP-42 - the result is not bad, spreading is normal.
• Horizon Universal - difficult to work with.
• Vetonit Vaateri Plus is a self-leveling agent with good characteristics, it is easy to work, the surface is smooth, and it is expensive.
• Forbo 976 is a self-leveling mixture with good performance.
• Foundation T-45 - spreads and levels well, on thick layer(more than 10 mm) is not suitable.
• Plitonit (PLITONIT) - a composition for a thin layer has very good reviews.
• Kreps-RV and SL - according to reviews - normal characteristics at an affordable price.

These are, naturally, not all manufacturers, but those with which you can make a floor, and do not suffer (according to reviews of those who worked with them) ...

Polymer and 3D self-leveling floors

The technology for installing polymer floors is similar to installing self-leveling ones. There is also a liquid, relatively fluid composition that needs to be distributed over the surface. The difference is in materials. These are mainly polymers. They differ according to the type of binder component:

• polyurethane;
• epoxy;
• methyl methacrylate.

In terms of coating thickness, they can be very thin - this is dust removal coating and painting, or they can have a thickness of 1.5-4.5 mm, sometimes more. The compositions are mainly two-component - before application they are mixed in strictly measured proportions. Then, like self-leveling floors based on cement or gypsum, they are poured onto a flat primed surface (the primer is their own) and leveled.

Polymer floors can have a glossy or matte surface, maybe rough. In apartments and private houses (for bathrooms, kitchens, corridors) they mainly use a gloss or matte surface, in swimming pools or on open terraces - a rough surface, so that it is non-slip even when wet.

Volumetric floors with a pattern, which are also called 3D (three de) floors, are special case polymer floor. The design is applied to a banner or special fabric. The main thing is careful elaboration of the design and high quality of printing. This pattern is glued onto the prepared base, then a layer of transparent polymer is poured on top. After drying, another layer of abrasion-resistant varnish is applied. The result is the same beautiful pictures on the floor, which many people like so much.

The basis for the quality of a 3D floor is an ideal base and high-quality pattern

Self-leveling floor technology with a pattern

Step by step it looks like this:

The entire technology for installing a 3D floor is demonstrated in a video clip. After viewing, all ambiguities should disappear completely.

Those who want to make a volumetric self-leveling floor with their own hands (with a 3D effect) often have questions about where to buy materials. If we're talking about about photo printing - then in an advertising agency dealing banner advertising or in a printing house that has equipment for large-format printing on fabric.

If we are talking about polymer compounds, then the number of manufacturing companies is in the dozens. There are both domestic and imported. They, as a rule, produce the entire line - from primers to coatings with different characteristics. There are a lot of possibilities for tinting. Choose any from the catalog. This is if you plan to fill a plain floor. If you decide to make a floor with a pattern, in addition to the primer you will need one composition for the base (to match the background of the photo), as well as a transparent one. They can also sell all sorts of “chips” to create a shimmering, for example, floor, etc.

As mentioned, there are many manufacturers. Here are some, with a description of the materials they produce (which they sell):

• TeoKhim enterprise produces polymer floors under the Elakor brand (all three types of polymers)
• Etal and Etal UV - epoxides
• Remmers Epoxy (epoxies), Remmers PUR Aqua (polyurethane)
• Self-leveling polyurethane coating KT floor Enamel PU 01 - one-component (toxic, use a respirator)
• Polyepoflex - epoxy self-leveling floors
• Ultraflor - polyurethanes
• Poly-Flor - all three polymers (epoxy, polyurethane, methyl methacrylate)
• Epolast - two-component epoxy compounds
• Sikafloor-2530W - epoxy self-leveling floor

Actually, this is all technology. You see that it is not easy to make a self-leveling floor with your own hands, but it is possible. The main task is to qualitatively prepare the bases, as well as to meet the specified time before the compositions harden.

Another video on how to make plain polymer floors.