How to do façade plaster with your own hands. How to plaster walls: the importance of the process, a competent approach to choosing technology and materials How to plaster walls with your own

Hello dear friends. Why buy the services of a professional plasterer if their cost is twice or even three times more expensive? Supplies? You can do the repairs yourself, even if you are new to this area.

Quick plastering of walls is much easier than it seems - you just have to start. Plastering walls takes about 2-3 days (per 14 m2). The leveling time also depends on the thickness of the applied layer, the experience of the technician and the area of ​​the room. Here you will get a clear step by step instructions With practical advice and recommendations for each stage.

There are many ways to apply decorative plaster

Before starting work, select an application method that corresponds to further plans. For now existing methods Wall plasters are divided into two categories:

1. Dry - sheathing with plasterboard;

“Dry plaster” is used if there are no further plans for wall cladding heavy materials(stone, porcelain stoneware, tiles). The cost is two times cheaper than wet.

2. Wet plaster - for leveling it is necessary to apply mixtures based on cement or gypsum.

The dry plastering method is conditional - in practice, walls are covered with plasterboard, so let’s look at the classic second method and how it’s done.

Required tools and materials

• Bags of plaster.
• Beacons 6 mm.
• Impact drill or hammer drill.
• Hammer.
• Grinder or metal scissors.
• Crosshead screwdriver.
• Plastic dowels.
• An adapter with SDS+ to ½, and for a hammer drill there is also a quick-release drill chuck for mixing the solution without an attachment.
• Drill bits for hammer drills (6 mm are most often used).
• Self-tapping screws for wood (rare pitch, black).

Dowels, drills, and screws are selected depending on how the surface needs to be plastered - they should not be short

• Level 2 m.
• Plumb.
• Aluminum rule (2.5 m for placing beacons/checking, 2 m for applying plaster).
• Putty knife.
• Steel smoother.
• Mixer attachment.
• Wide brush/roller and tray.
• Bucket.
• Roulette.
• Primer.
• Cotton gloves.

Preparing the premises

Now that necessary tools In stock, your own premises are being prepared. If it was residential, you need to take things out, the furniture is placed in the center of the room and covered with film. The floor is also covered with a layer of sawdust or film. To prevent water from accidentally getting on the wires, they are insulated.

During the cleaning process, the old coating is removed down to the base. The whitewash can be spread with paste and, after drying, removed with a spatula. The wallpaper is wetted and removed with a metal brush or scraper. Detected cracks are sealed repair mixture. “Serpyanka” or “serpyanka” tape is attached to the cracks.

The walls are tapped with a hammer to check for hidden defects. A dull sound is detected low quality adhesion of old plaster. It is beaten off, the voids are filled by hammering nails or reinforcing mesh. If there is fungus, the wall is treated with a special antifungal agent, then a primer is applied.

The process of applying plaster to brick, stone or concrete wall Using a chisel or an old ax, a 1 cm deep beating is made by making notches. A wooden wall needs to be pre-upholstered, painted and dried. metal mesh. You can use upholstery with shingles in the form of a mesh, which is secured with nails driven halfway and then bent.

Surface primer

Before you start plastering the walls, you need to prime them. This is necessary to increase adhesion, or in other words, the adhesion of the wall surface to the mortar. As you understand, we will use a primer for this.

It can be regular or deep penetration. Deep penetration soil is used in cases where the wall has a well-absorbed base. This could be, for example, a wall made of aerated concrete or sand-lime brick.

Don’t forget to mix the primer thoroughly before starting work, and treat highly absorbent surfaces twice.

Walls whose surfaces are poorly absorbent and smooth are usually primed with a mixture such as Betonkontakt. A direct example of such a wall is a concrete wall.

Before starting priming work, the surface of the wall must be cleaned of old plaster, if any, of saw blades, stains, and, in short, of any dirt. The walls must be clean before priming. Plastering walls with your own hands can be done only after the soil on the surface has completely dried.

Wet plastering technology

The technology includes the following stages of wall plastering:

• Spray is the initial layer necessary for adhesion of the finish and surface. The solution for application should have a thick consistency. The applied layer will be 9 mm thick for a wooden surface and 5 mm for brick walls.
• Primer - after the spray has hardened, a layer of a thicker consistency is applied, the surface is leveled and rubbed.
• Covering - after the soil has dried, it is moistened and a finishing layer of a solution with sifted sand is applied.

If this technology is violated, after 6-8 months the plaster will begin to peel off and crack.

Basic techniques for preparing plaster mixture

The most popular hand-prepared solutions are:

1. cement: 1/3 cement/sand;
2. limestone: 3/1 sand/lime;
3. cement-lime: 1/5/1 cement/sand/lime;
4. gypsum-lime: 1/3 alabaster/lime paste.

Stages of preparing the mixture for plaster

When doing plastering work with your own hands, you must remember that the prepared solution must be used within 30-60 minutes, otherwise it will disappear. The proportions for preparing the finished mixture are taken from the manufacturer’s packaging. First, water is poured into the container, then up to 1 kg of plaster mixture is added, everything is mixed. Then the entire mass of the mixture is added and mixed with a mixer until the lumps disappear. After 5 minutes, mix again. The consistency is brought to the desired level of density immediately, because during finishing work it is strictly prohibited to add the plaster mixture or water.

Using cement mortar

If you prepare the solution yourself, you must remember that if you put more cement than necessary, the plaster will harden faster and you may not have time to level it. The solution is applied with a spatula or trowel, leveled with a rule or a trowel, and smoothed with a grater. For beginners, a spatula and grater will do just fine. Throwing the plaster mixture onto the wall is done with a staple to create ideal adhesion of the mortar particles to the top surface. Professionals use a “falcon” - a platform tool with a handle at the bottom.

We plaster the wall surface gradually - after finishing small area(1 m) it is leveled with a trowel using circular movements counterclockwise. Excess material is removed into a container, and the voids, on the contrary, are filled with a solution from it. After 7-8 hours you can apply the next layer. If the excess is not removed 12 hours after application, the hardened layer will be difficult to level. Corners are made by fastening edged boards on self-tapping screws.

Using gypsum mortar

So, let's briefly look at how to plaster walls with gypsum plaster with your own hands. Alabaster compositions, or gypsum mixtures, are less durable, but are applied just as easily as cement ones. You need to be careful when diluting and applying such a solution - any dirt particles that get into the container or onto the tool will reduce the hardening time.

Prepare according to the mixture manufacturer's instructions and apply with a spatula. Drying time 2-3 hours. The excess is removed within an hour. Corners are made using reinforced corners. Solutions of this type do not interact well with paint.

Plastering on beacons

Lighthouse finishing is done to match tiles, non-woven lining, and wallpaper. To plaster walls with your own hands, you need to have certain skills and knowledge, otherwise you will not pull out the wall straight. Performance techniques are better learned by observing work experienced craftsman(can be on video). The instructions “how to properly plaster walls with your own hands” will serve as a kind of “cheat sheet” for the first time.

To level the walls using metal profiles, first, at a distance of 20 cm from the end of the wall,.

• Next, using a level, the curvature of the surface is determined.
• Along the rule, plaster tubercles are applied to the walls at intervals of 20–30 cm.
• The desired level is formed by pressing down with a rule.
• The solution fixes the position of the beacons.
• If the area is large, ropes are pulled to determine the location of the beacons.
• When the solution fixing the beacons hardens, the gaps are plastered together.
• The plaster is leveled by following the rules along the beacons.

Now you know how to plaster walls with your own hands and it will not be difficult for you to complete all the listed work yourself. And now a few final secrets:

After a careful assessment of the condition, a decision is made - whether major repairs and plastering of the walls are needed or whether the corners and the most noticeable irregularities can be straightened.

If laid flat ceiling tiles, you can make a plastered ceiling. Before work, it is cleaned of old material, primed and plastered. Otherwise, it will be more profitable to create a suspended or stretch ceiling.

Proper finishing external walls can radically change the style of a building, making it presentable and well-groomed. Today the construction market offers enough varieties finishing material, a significant place among them is occupied by facade plaster. Such finishing of a building will help not only transform appearance building, but also to prevent the appearance of defects on the surface of the walls.

Finishing the facade with plaster has the following operational advantages: Types of plaster for facades Plaster on acrylic base , it is also called polymer. This type of plaster is elastic and resistant to temperature fluctuations. The service life of this material reaches 25 years. Acrylic plaster contains certain biocide additives, which protect it from various types of microorganisms. This material is also quite resistant to ultraviolet rays. Like a flaw in plaster of this type its vapor permeability can be determined, for this reason it is not recommended to use it with basalt wool. Also, acrylic plaster tends to get dirty quickly, and it is washed off quite poorly by rain. Silicate type plaster. Finishing the facade of a house with plaster of this type allows it to be used in the process of insulating facades if the insulating bonding method is used. The service life of the material is 25 years. This plaster, due to its elastic structure, has good resistance to cracks. It also washes quite well when dirty, which allows it to have a good view. However, this type of material is not recommended for use with foam cladding, since the foam in this case will not breathe. Mineral plaster. Thanks to the cement in its composition, this plaster is the most durable among all types. of this material, and its cost is the most reasonable. It has vapor-permeable characteristics, so it can be applied over basalt insulation and foam plastic. But mineral type plaster also has its disadvantages. Its service life is relatively short - only 10 years. In addition, the material is not crack-resistant and has little elasticity. Silicone facing compound. This type of decorative plaster on the facade of a house is currently the most technologically advanced. Silicone-type plaster is elastic, vapor-permeable, and has a sufficient elongation rate. It is not difficult to wash off the contaminants from it, due to which it can be used to decorate the facades of buildings located near the road. But the cost of such material is quite high. Decorative plaster . Its task is mainly to implement various design ideas. With its help you can achieve relief and smooth surfaces the most various shades. In addition, using decorative plaster you can create an imitation of more expensive types of finishes. Decorative plaster of the facade photo: In order to correctly apply a layer of plaster cladding, it is necessary to take into account a number of key features process: Layers of plaster solution should be applied to work surface layers of equal thickness. Otherwise, the surface will dry unevenly, and a thin layer will not be able to hide the unevenness of the wall. Before starting work, it is imperative to prepare the surface of the wall and clean it of dirt. When ignored this condition adhesion of the plaster and the base will be poor, and the applied layer will be uneven. You should not plaster walls that are frozen. In this case, ice forms, which will prevent the composition from fastening, and when it melts, the material will lag behind. Hot weather is also a prohibitive condition for work. Plaster at high temperatures will dry out quickly, and unwanted cracks may form in it. It is not recommended to take breaks during work. This may lead to stains on the walls. When finishing with colored plasters, you need to immediately prepare required material for the entire treated surface. In order to understand how much material is required, you should proceed from the area to be processed and the average consumption, which is stated on the packaging by the manufacturer. You should also add an additional 10% of material for possible losses during operation. Consumption plastering material determined by grain size. You will need a larger volume of fine-grained material, but the composition used will be enough to treat a larger area of ​​the wall. Preparatory work Before you carry out the process of plastering the facade with your own hands, it is necessary to carry out certain preparatory actions. Let's look at them in more detail: Technological finishing process When finishing facade walls, it is very important to pay attention to the temperature of the working surface, which should be from 5 °C to 30 °C. Also, air humidity – this indicator should not exceed 70%. Remember that you should not carry out finishing immediately after precipitation, much less during it. Also, do not carry out work if straight lines come into contact with the wall surface. sun rays. Otherwise, you should follow this sequence of actions: Plaster can be applied in two ways: manually, using tools specially designed for this purpose, or by using plastering stations. For finishing mechanically you need to install the necessary scaffolding in advance, as well as scaffolding and hanging cradles. Should be prepared immediately necessary tools and solutions. Finishing should begin by applying leveling plaster. After this, you need to wait until the material hardens completely. If desired, a polished effect can be achieved. To do this on level base Apply the putty and wait for it to harden. Then sand the wall until it shines. After this, the surface of the wall must be coated with a primer. This will make it possible to reduce the number finishing composition. Also, using a primer will ensure good adhesion. plaster mortar, fix and polymerize, making it homogeneous. After the primer has dried, cover the surface with a composition of decorative plaster, and, if necessary, apply paint on top of it. Plastering the surface of foam concrete walls If you need to apply plaster lining to a foam concrete surface, you need to take into account a number of the following features: When finishing façade walls you should use the type of plaster that will limit the access of moisture, create a stable barrier to cracks and ensure vapor permeability. This will contribute to better thermal conductivity and frost resistance of the material. When finishing walls made of foam concrete, the thickness of the plaster layer should be 5-10 mm. Good thermal conductivity of the plaster will ensure that moisture escapes out. This will allow moisture not to linger under outer layer plaster, which will prevent premature destruction of the walls. For foam concrete surface you should use plaster with high adhesion ability, since due to the foaming component, adhesion of the plaster to the surface of such walls is problematic. Plastering concrete walls If the surface to be covered consists of concrete slabs, it is necessary to take into account the following features of the plastering process: On the walls from concrete material During installation, defective changes of various types may occur - cracks, chips, depressions and sagging. This may hinder good fastening plaster to the base. To correct the situation, defects should be eliminated using putty. Before finishing the concrete surface with plaster, to strengthen the base, it should be treated with a primer solution or a certain strengthening compound. The compositions can be applied mechanically using a spray gun, as well as manually using a roller or brush. Since concrete is a material that does not absorb moisture well, the plaster should be applied in three layers - spray, primer and topcoat. The first layer, spray, should be of a liquid consistency and have a thickness of 3-5 mm. The second layer, soil, should be thicker and its thickness should be 7-10 mm. The coating should also be of a thick consistency and applied with a thickness of 4-7 mm. Plastering brick walls In order for the plaster solution to be better attached to the brick surface, the following features of the cladding process should be taken into account: Initially, you need to make a notch on the brick. Can also be placed under plaster fine mesh made of metal material. Next, we spray, cover the surface with a primer and cover it using a solution of a similar consistency. You also need to pay attention to ensuring that the seams between the bricks are cut to the required depth. Otherwise, the plaster layer will swell and eventually fall off. How to plaster a facade is shown in the video below:

Applying facade plaster with your own hands is not so difficult. You just need to follow some rules and then all the work can be done independently.

In this case, the final price will not be high. Below you will be given instructions on the rules for performing the work and given necessary recommendations. You can also learn a lot of useful information in the video in this article.

Types and methods of application

Before doing the application work facade plaster, you need to choose the right material. After all, there are several types and you need to choose the right one. The video on applying facade plaster will give you recommendations on this issue.

Types of facade plaster

Before the start of the event plastering works facade, it is worth deciding on the type of mixture, since there are several options. The choice of plaster is largely influenced by climatic conditions your region of residence, as well as the type of material with which the facade is finished.

Let's look at the main existing basic types:

Attention: Silicone grade is the most expensive and best option among those proposed. He absorbed everything positive characteristics the types described above. A polymer compound is taken as the basis for it.

Another criterion for classifying facade plaster is the method of its application and texture:

• Pebble option assumes the homogeneity of the layer containing a large number of grains After the grouting is done, the appearance of the plaster resembles small pebbles located very close to each other. The perfect solution for decorating the facade of a building located in a polluted area, since such texture does not retain dirt.
• Texture "Bark beetle"(see Decorative bark beetle plaster: features of the material) - a type widely used in construction. It got its name because it creates the illusion of being eaten away by a beetle; it looks like numerous grooves. To obtain this texture, a plastic trowel is passed over a fresh layer of plaster. The surface is drawn in several directions: vertically, horizontally, in a circle. By experimenting with grain size, you can achieve maximum expressiveness of the texture.
• Mosaic view represents colored plaster glassy type. It is based on small multi-colored pebbles and transparent resin. Excellent for decorating plinths, balustrades, and slopes. Dirt and soot practically do not accumulate in it, and it is easy to clean.

Application tool

After you have chosen the type of plaster mixture, you should prepare the materials and tools necessary for the work:

• A primer that provides reliable protection surfaces;
• Beacons, with their help, the quality of the applied layer is controlled;
• Reinforcing mesh to prevent cracks;
• Corners for mating surfaces;
• Spatulas;
• Grater;
• Rule;
• Knives.

Recommendations for work related to façade plastering

Applying plaster to a facade involves working with a large surface area, so there are some rules that should be followed:

• Strictly follow the technology for preparing the plaster mixture;
• Use the same ingredients for the entire technological cycle;
• Properly divide the work surface into gripping zones;
• Prepare in advance all the tools required for the work, as well as materials in full;
• Perform all actions carefully and avoid negligence.

Compliance with these rules will allow you to get quality work done, attractive looking facade.

Sooner or later, any householder is faced with the problem of plastering walls. Whether it's an old apartment that hasn't been seen for a long time overhaul either large or newly built Vacation home. In any case, before gluing wallpaper or laying tiles, it is necessary to perform preliminary surface preparation.

Plastering work is a very labor-intensive process and requires the use of special knowledge. Of course, it is better to seek help from professionals, but this can cost you a pretty penny. But what to do if you don’t have that very penny? You can learn this. Below in detailed manual We will tell you about the stages of the work, how to prepare the surface and how to finish.

How to plaster walls

The composition for plaster is determined by the material wall covering, as well as the location of the prepared surface (indoors or outdoors).

The choice of the type of solution must be approached with all responsibility, because the further service life of the coating depends on it. If you have any doubts, it is better to contact a hardware store for professional advice.

Except homemade solution, you can use ready-made plaster mixtures, which in large assortment presented on construction market. One of the most popular and widespread mixtures today is “Rotband”.

Video: what to choose for wall decoration in the bathroom

Preliminary surface priming

If the wall has a highly absorbent base - sand-lime brick or aerated concrete, a deeply penetrating primer is used (Tifengrunt or its analogues). In addition to the fact that such a primer significantly improves the adhesion of the solution to the base, it also additionally strengthens the wall. Before starting work, the primer must be thoroughly mixed. Highly absorbent surfaces are treated twice.

For priming smooth surfaces that do not absorb moisture, a special mixture is used - “Betonokontakt”. Before applying the primer, it is necessary to clean the wall surface from dirt and dust, remove the flaking old plaster with a spatula or brush. Before use, “Betonokontakt” must be thoroughly mixed and diluted with water (no more than 1 hour per 2 hours mixture) if necessary. Plastering the surface should begin only after completely dry soil layer.

Video: is it necessary to prime the walls before plastering?

Surface preparation

First, you need to remove all old finishes and plaster, if any, and completely clean the wall of sagging, dust and dirt.

On wooden base shingles are installed, which can be made from plywood scraps or thin slats. It is recommended to stuff the material diagonally. The result will be a lathing that will serve as beacons and keep the plaster on wall surface. Instead of wooden slats, the use of chain-link mesh is allowed. The wire reinforcement is attached to the plywood strips so that the distance between the mesh and the wall surface is at least 3 mm.

On concrete smooth wall Using a hammer and teeth, notches are made with a depth of 3 mm and a length of 15 mm. The number of notches depends on the area and is calculated using the formula 250 * m2.

Brick wall. To improve the adhesion of the mortar to the wall surface, depressions of up to 1 cm are made between the bricks.

Before applying plaster, wooden and brick surfaces should be moistened with water using a garden sprayer or an ordinary broom. Concrete walls are treated with a special soil mixture- "Concrete Contact". For porous wall surfaces (sand-lime brick, aerated concrete, foam concrete), a deeply penetrating primer is used. The highly absorbent base is processed twice. After the primer has completely dried, you can proceed directly to plastering the walls.

Video: how to prepare a wall for finishing

Stages of work execution

Plaster is applied to the walls in several layers.

"Splash"

The prepared solution should have a consistency similar to sour cream. Thickness of the first layer for wooden surfaces- 10 mm, for stone and brick - 4-5 mm.

There are two ways to apply the solution:

"Priming"

The solution should have a dough-like consistency. First, the readiness of the previously applied “spray” is checked (if the surface is not dented when pressing with a finger, the “spray” has dried) and only after the first layer has completely dried, the second is applied. When throwing mortar onto the wall, you must try to fill all the voids. We level the surface using the rule from bottom to top, simultaneously filling the remaining empty areas. And on last stage, to achieve the effect flat wall, we use a trowel, running it along the surface in a vertical and horizontal direction. For wooden walls, the thickness of the second layer should not exceed 20 mm. Leave until completely dry.

This is the so-called finishing layer plaster, designed to hide all the imperfections of the “soil”. A solution of creamy consistency is prepared. All components included in it are first sifted through a sieve to prevent the appearance of lumps. Wet the surface of the “soil” with water and apply the solution thin layer using a trowel. Then, using a trowel, performing wavy or circular movements, we level the surface. There is no need to wait for this layer of plaster to dry completely. Let's start grouting.

More videos on the topic

Grouting plaster

All around. We press the wooden trowel firmly against the wall and, using circular movements counterclockwise, begin grouting. The sharp edge of the tool cuts off all irregularities and protrusions. If the “covering” layer has already hardened, moisten it with water.

Overclocking. To remove traces of circular movements, you need to press the grater against the wall and make several sharp strokes. For achievement best result You can go over the surface with a grater covered with felt or felt.

So we found out that DIY plastering walls is a realistically feasible task and if you follow all the rules and regulations, you will be able to cope with it without the involvement of strangers.

New progressive methods and nanotechnologies appearing almost every day in production and in everyday life never cease to amaze both ordinary people and professionals. Take, for example, the same construction. How could, say, in Soviet times, some foreman, almost with tears in his eyes knocking the notorious plan out of his workers, dream that there would be not just special devices for plastering walls, but at least more or less acceptable finishing materials, not just sand and cement. Of course not. But they worked. They erected houses and handed over keys to apartments to happy new residents. And they carried out the same plan. And they overfulfilled it. True, the quality of the work left much to be desired, but these are minor things. And therefore, today, when there is a huge amount of all kinds of finishing materials that greatly facilitate the work of the master, it would be a sin not to take advantage of it. Houses are still being built today, the same curves remain, still from the Soviet era. times of the wall, which the current owners would like to bring to mind. You never know where they are required Finishing work. And they are oh so expensive if you invite professionals. That is why home craftsmen are increasingly thinking about how to learn how to plaster walls, whether it is possible to cope with this work on their own, which materials are better for which surfaces. We will try to give a comprehensive answer to these and other questions in our review. At the same time, we’ll tell you in detail how to plaster walls using beacons, what types of finishing materials there are, how to properly prepare the surface, and much more. We read, we educate ourselves, we learn. And we plaster the walls with our own hands.

Methods

Since no one can plaster walls without at least rudimentary skills and knowledge of the basics of the process, let’s start, as they say, from the very beginning. By by and large, there are only two finishing methods. This is plaster, so to speak, in a plane, using special device- rules. And with the display (necessarily at the building level) of lighthouses. The first option is used in cases where the curvature of the surface is not too noticeable, and the defects and differences existing on it are not particularly significant. The second one is used for finishing rough walls. Or so crooked that they can only be brought to perfection by applying a thick layer of finishing material. It is much easier to work in a plane, but with beacons it is much more difficult. Therefore, before looking for the answer to the question of how to properly plaster walls, wisely assess the surface to be updated. It may be possible to get by with a little bloodshed, so to speak.

Kinds

The question “how to plaster walls correctly” cannot be answered unambiguously. Because this type of finishing work can be performed in different ways and using various materials. In addition, the walls themselves are also not all the same and not everywhere. They can be either internal or external. Both façade and utility room surfaces are subject to plastering. Agree, it is difficult to compare the walls of a closet with those in, say, a living room or bedroom. In this regard, when we plaster walls with our own hands, without, quite understandably, having the necessary professional skills, we should remember the following. IN non-residential premises which do not require additional finishing (the same wallpapering or cladding ceramic tiles) - storerooms, garages, sheds, etc. - applicable the usual way plastering walls. With this type, the solution is applied only in two layers, usually by eye. With an improved finish, they are plastered in three layers, in addition, the walls must be puttyed after applying and drying the solution. High-quality finishing involves the use of beacons and expensive mixtures from famous brands.

In addition, anyone who has decided to thoroughly study how to plaster walls correctly must remember one more thing: do not confuse ordinary finishing with decorative ones. Venetian, flock, textured and other types of plaster are not intended for leveling walls. This is the final stage of finishing work, followed only by painting.

Materials

It is quite understandable that every novice master has a logical question: “What is the best way to plaster walls?” Today, few people prepare their own solutions, because you can buy ready-made mixtures, which just need to be diluted with water. The main thing is to choose them correctly. For example, cement-lime mixtures are excellent for walls made of aerated concrete, brick, and concrete. I make them from sand, lime, cement and various additives that contribute to better adhesion solution and improving its quality characteristics. There are also universal mixtures suitable for finishing any walls, both inside and outside. They are called cement-sand, and what they consist of is clear from the name. Plus, of course, the same additives, without which, by the way, not a single mixture for finishing work can do today. Last view - gypsum plasters- the most popular. But these mixtures are also the most expensive. But they are easy to work with, and the quality of finishing with gypsum solutions is always excellent. True, they dry out very quickly, in addition, they cannot be used in rooms with high humidity. Therefore, for example, if the question is “how to plaster the walls in the bathroom,” then the best answer to it would be to choose cement-sand mortar, which is not afraid of any water.

Tools

When wondering how to plaster walls, you need to understand that without special tools there is no way to get by here. Therefore, every novice finisher should certainly acquire the following materials and tools:

Preparation

Since it is impossible to plaster walls without first preparing them, let’s say a few words about this simple, but very important process. First of all, it is necessary to remove the old coating existing on it from the surface. First of all, this applies to wallpaper, oil paint, whitewashing. Moreover, you need to get rid of them very diligently, to the maximum. If you find significant cracks on the wall or any other mechanical damage, then they need to be expanded, and then cleaned of existing sand, primed and sealed with mortar. You also need to check the surface for internal defects, in particular voids. Why do you need to tap the wall? The presence of a dull sound will indicate that in this place old plaster poorly adhered to the base surface. It must be beaten off and then sealed as well. If the resulting holes after beating are very deep, then for better adhesion of the solution used to fill defects, you need to put some kind of filler into them - foam plastic, pieces of reinforcing mesh, etc. It is also better to beat off the bumps protruding above the surface, which will make it possible to significantly save quantity finishing material used.

A prerequisite is that the surface must be very carefully primed before starting work. Each finishing material has its own type of primer (information about this can be read on the packaging in which the mixture is stored). If there is no way to purchase exactly the one recommended by the manufacturer, take acrylic. We apply the primer either with a roller or a brush. If you have a spray bottle, even better. You can use it.

What to watch out for

Even highly qualified professionals, not to mention beginners, often make mistakes. What should you be wary of when starting to plaster walls? What defects are most common and how to avoid them?

Shrinkage cracks most often occur because the mortar used for the job dries too quickly. Most often this happens when the room is very heat. Or there is a draft moving through it. Another reason for the appearance of this kind of cracks is the application of a subsequent layer of mortar on top of the previous one that has not yet had time to dry.

It also happens that in some places the new plaster simply begins to peel off. All this happens due to the fact that it was carried out incorrectly (or carelessly). preliminary preparation walls Let's say base surface was either too dry or very dirty.

Sometimes on freshly finished walls in certain areas the mortar seems to swell. Cause? The original base surface was very raw.

Quite often, novice craftsmen are not very happy with their work, because the plastered surface turns out to be rough. Well, it was necessary to carry out the final procedure - grouting - more conscientiously.

The occurrence of all of the listed shortcomings may be due to one more reason: a discrepancy between the material from which the walls are built and the mortar used for finishing. But we will cover this issue in more detail below.

Gypsum

By and large, the process of plastering walls is almost always the same. The only thing is that some nuances may arise when using a finishing material that has different basis. As we said above, all solutions are usually prepared from gypsum or cement. Therefore, a few words about their features.

So, how to plaster walls with gypsum plaster? Firstly, such mixtures are very rarely used to level walls that are characterized by large curvature. You can't call gypsum plasters bad. On the contrary, they are very good. But, as we already mentioned, firstly, they are expensive, and secondly, they dry very quickly. In this regard, they are most often used only where it is necessary to apply a small layer of finishing material to obtain a high-quality final result. Due to the fact that gypsum mortar dries quickly, it is ideal for sealing large local defects. As for the features of working with it, you need to remember one thing: you need to knead it quickly, and not very much. As much as is needed to treat a section of wall for an hour. Naturally, you cannot compare the speed of work of a professional and a novice master. Therefore, mix the solution in small portions and quickly, using a special mixer (this is the name of the attachment on an electric drill). Spray the entire prepared mixture at once with a small spatula, and then level it over the surface with a large one (about forty or fifty centimeters long). The first layer is aligned horizontally. If you need to apply another layer, you should wait until the first one is completely dry. The second one is aligned vertically.

Cement

Modern cement mortars, due to the presence of various additives and modifiers in them, are very plastic, easy to work with, and do not harden for a long time. How to plaster walls with cement mortar? Yes, exactly the same as with plaster. The only difference is that cement mixtures do not dry out so quickly, and therefore they are excellent for finishing large areas. In addition, if it is necessary to apply the solution in several layers, it is necessary to increase the exposure time (the solution dries within six or even eight hours).

When, after a little practice, you realize that you have already gained enough experience, you can work using the rule. First you throw it on cement mixture on a significant section of the wall, and then level it, drawing the rule from top to bottom.

Angles

One of the most painful questions. How to plaster the corners of walls? Indeed, this can become a problem. Especially when you consider that the corners in our apartments are far from exemplary. In order to make them straight, you can use a little trick. You need to stock up on a good straight board, and its length should be the same as the height of the room. Then use self-tapping screws to fix it directly into the corner of the perpendicular wall, retreating from its edge a distance equal to the thickness of the applied layer of plaster mortar. The procedure must be carried out using (this is a prerequisite) a level and a plumb line. After the plastered surface has dried, fix the board in the same way on the already treated surface in order to finish the entire corner. As for the outer corners, everything is much simpler here. To finish them, a special perforated metal profile is sold, which is attached to the corner to be leveled using mortar. We control the correctness of the work at the same level.

As you can see, the devil is not so scary... Well, now about a more complex procedure. About how to plaster walls using beacons.

We work with beacons

This method allows you to get almost flat surface. When working with beacons, a cement-based mixture is used for plastering, but the profile must be secured to the wall with gypsum mortar, since it dries faster. So, the algorithm of actions.

Beacons are special metal profiles that can be purchased at almost any hardware store. Before purchasing them, measure the height and area of ​​the room to be finished. And then do the calculations. The profile must be installed every one and a half meters. The distance from the first lighthouse to the corner is no more than fifteen, maximum twenty centimeters. As for the length, it varies, but not less than two and a half meters.

So, a description of the process. Vertically we apply bumps of gypsum mortar to the wall every thirty centimeters. Then carefully insert the beacon into them (its length should correspond to the height of the room). And then, checking with a level, we press the profile into the solution so that in the end it stands perfectly level. First, we install two beacons in the corners in this way. Then we stretch the thread between them (under the ceiling and closer to the floor). It will serve as a guide for installing beacons in the middle of the wall. Now you need to wait for the solution to dry completely. Experienced masters Alabaster is often used to strengthen lighthouses. But this method is not entirely suitable for a beginner, since such a solution dries out almost instantly. So it's better to be patient.

Next you need to plaster the gaps between the beacons. Starting from the floor, add the solution. And then, as a rule, running it along the beacons (almost like on rails), we pull it up and level it. Filling the gaps must be done in parts. Professionals recommend that after the gap is completely filled, apply the rule several times in the vertical direction. This will make the wall smoother.

Upon completion of the work and after the solution has dried, some then break out the profiles, and the resulting cavities are sealed again. By and large, apart from additional difficulties, this will not bring anything. So the beacons can be safely left in the wall. They are made of stainless metal, and therefore will not present any unpleasant surprises during the further finishing process.

Slopes

As a rule, if such extensive work is carried out in a room, then everything is finished. Therefore, a novice master is interested in how to plaster slopes. We answer. Just like everything else. Using a solution and a level. As you know, slopes (it doesn’t matter whether they are doors or windows) have external corners. A special profile is used for their finishing. We have already mentioned it above. As for the material used, if the defects on the slopes are large, then it is preferable to use cement mortars, since the plaster will have to be applied in several stages. If not very good, plaster will do. The algorithm of actions is similar. Preparing the surface, pouring the solution, leveling it with a spatula. The final stage is finishing with putty and painting.

Various surfaces

Everyone knows that wall surfaces are different. This could be plasterboard, which, by the way, there is no need to plaster, since the walls made of it are already smooth, and brick, and wood, and blocks. The finishing of each surface has its own nuances. What follows in a few words.

How to plaster walls made of foam blocks? For these purposes, a cement mixture is usually used. You can use a regular one, or you can purchase a special one, created for finishing this particular material. True, its cost is much higher. Let's agree right away. The plastering process itself - regardless of what the base surface is made of - is the same in all cases. The difference lies only in the presence or absence of any additional steps. For example, to plaster foam blocks, it is necessary to first strengthen the surface with a reinforcing mesh. It is mounted on special hooks. And then carry out finishing work. How to plaster aerated concrete walls? The same as from foam blocks - cement mortar. Only here it is already possible to do without reinforcement; it is enough to place a polyurethane paint mesh under the solution.

To the question about how to plaster brick walls, you can answer the following. If they are very uneven, then you also need to carry out reinforcement first. And use the same material as the material cement mortar. With almost perfect brickwork, it is quite possible to work with a gypsum mixture. But, as already mentioned, it is more expensive, and therefore large areas not very acceptable (based on economic considerations). As for how to plaster wooden walls, then everything is clear here. Only on the lathing, and only with gypsum mortar. A lot has already been said about the latter, so we won’t repeat it. As for the so-called shingles, they are made from slats, nailing them crosswise. After which I process antiseptic, and then apply a plaster solution to the surface.