How is brick facing a house done? Choosing facing bricks for facing a house with bricks How to cover an old wooden house with bricks

Adobe houses have excellent thermal insulation properties, however, they quickly settle and lose their aesthetic appearance. To prolong life adobe houses To preserve the structure and prevent complete destruction of the building, the walls are reinforced with bricks. How exactly does it happen? technological stage, look further.

Before you start construction work, make up construction estimate, in which carefully calculate the quantity and type of building material needed. So, in any case, each of the components presented below will be needed when facing walls with brick. Construction Materials and tools for working with the cladding of an old house: bricks, cement, sand, insulation, water, plumb line, level, bucket, shovel, concrete mixer (you can mix the masonry mortar by hand, then you will need a spacious trough). If you are deliberately constructing a house from adobe, after construction, allow the walls to settle (naturally) and settle for several years to further strengthen and protect the foundation. Over such a period of time (3-4 years), the walls will be sufficiently strengthened and will be ready for further action.

If you are in such a situation that you have purchased your own country cottage area in addition to an old adobe, rickety house, don’t get upset and don’t make drastic decisions. In most cases, the situation can be corrected. It is enough to strengthen the corner joints of the building and add foundation. Short description How does this happen:

• It is necessary to drill holes with a diameter of 12 mm and a depth of 100 mm into concrete (or 200 mm into brick) with a downward slope of 15-20 degrees;
• 12 mm reinforcement is immersed in the holes made. The remaining 150 mm length should extend to the surface of the foundation;
• Pour a new foundation 30 cm deep and leave the anchors in the concrete;
• You perform waterproofing using two-layer roofing material.

After the issue with the foundation has been resolved, do not forget to raise the base (if you have not done this before) - complete the formwork and fill it with concrete, or, alternatively, lay it out of brick. When starting to line the walls, make an approximate calculation of the bricks - at the most inopportune moment, the supply of building materials may run out, delivering extra hassle. Lay out the “trying on” row without using a binder mixture - on a dry one. On average, brick consumption is 55-58 pcs. per m 2.
Consider the ventilation system and do not place bricks close to the walls, leave space for air exchange. The inability to ventilate the walls will lead to their rapid destruction, dampness, and the spread of mold and mildew.

Don't forget about the wall connection. Simple 10 cm nails can be used as a cohesive material. It would be a good idea to fill the resulting gaps not with cement mortar, but heat-insulating mixture(for example, expanded clay).

Prepare cement mortar for laying walls in a ratio of 4 buckets of sand to 1 bucket of cement. After mixing thoroughly, add water to a medium consistency (“sour cream”). During the laying process, it is necessary to leave 11-13 mm seams between the bricks. On door and window openings insert metal jumpers. Maximum strength and minimal clearance allow them to be used as reinforcement. Bricks must be laid out in a checkerboard pattern and the walls must be regularly checked for “evenness” using a level.

Building and renovating a home requires a lot of expenses. Drawing up an estimate will allow you to accurately calculate the quantity and cost required material. Plan your expenses. When buying bricks, keep in mind a stock of at least 500 pieces. additionally. Anything can happen, but you won’t lose the building material; in extreme cases, use it for another need.

After completing the frame of the house, the question arises of how to decorate the facade so that the building gains expressiveness and becomes warmer. Along with plaster and siding, cladding a house with brick is often used. On my own facing brick is different beautiful surface, correct sizes, a wide variety of colors and textures, so that a house lined with brick takes on an elegant and neat appearance without additional decorative details and decorations. In addition, facing a house with brick is also beneficial for functional reasons, because it protects the facade from negative impact weather factors, increases the sound and heat insulation of the building.

Features and types of facing bricks

The basis for the production of facing bricks is the same material that is used for the production of ordinary bricks. However, regardless of the material from which the facing product is made, it must meet the following requirements:

• correct geometric shape(the error in length cannot exceed 4.4 mm, in width – 3.3 mm, and in height – 2.3 mm);
• clear and smooth edges;
• rich, uniform color;
• the product should not have any defects in the form of chips, cracks and delaminations (the surface can be smooth, glazed or textured);
• facing bricks can have frost resistance within F 25 - F The marking value indicates the number of freezing and thawing cycles that the material can withstand without visible damage and a decrease in compressive strength of no more than 20 percent;
• water absorption should be below 6%.

Important: if you are laying facing bricks with your own hands, then you should know the following concepts: the long side of the product is called the spoon, the end part is called the butt, the supporting plane (the largest surface) is the bed.

The following products can be used as facing bricks:

1. Masonry ceramic brick, in which clay is used as a filler. Compared to silicate products, the production technology of ceramic elements more complex, which affects their price (they are more expensive). Among positive qualities These products should be listed as follows:
   • water absorption is 6-14% (this figure may be higher according to GOST, depending on the type of clay used);
   • frost resistance - from 25 to 50 cycles;
   • thermal conductivity is 0.3-0.5;
   • a large assortment of colors, textures and sizes (thanks to this, decorative parts of facades can be made from brick, arches and columns can be lined with it);
   • The density of the product is in the range of 1300-1460 kg/m³.

1. Clinker brick has a dense structure, so it practically does not absorb moisture. However, solid clinker has greater thermal conductivity. In addition, the price of the product is higher than that of ordinary ceramic bricks. Its characteristics:
   • can withstand up to 100 cycles of thawing and freezing, which makes a house lined with such bricks more durable;
   • With clinker you can not only sheathe the facade, but also use it to lay out columns, decorative belts, façade details, and make beautiful fence and use in the interior;
   • presented for sale big choice shapes, colors and textures of this product;
   • The density of clinker brick reaches 2100 kg/m³, so it can be used for masonry load-bearing elements buildings.

1. You can cover your house with bricks yourself using silicate products. They use quartz sand as a filler. When decorating your home with such elements, it is worth considering their characteristics:
   • water absorption of the material is 6-8 percent;
   • the frost resistance of the elements is low and amounts to 15-50 successive cycles;
   • thermal conductivity – 0.39-0.7;
   • element density – 1500-1950 kg/m³.

1. Cladding a house with products that are produced using hyperpressing technology (semi-dry method) is very similar in characteristics to ceramic bricks, but its price is slightly higher. A striking example Such facing elements can be Bassoon brick, in which shell rock is used as a filler. Characteristics:
   • water absorption – 3-7%;
   • frost resistance from F 30 to F300;
   • strength from 1000 to 4000 kg/m³;
   • thermal conductivity 0.43-0.9.

Advice: if you take into account the characteristics of the products, it is better to clad the house clinker bricks. Although its cost is higher, such investments will quickly pay off with durability and ease of use.

Types of facing masonry

Laying facing bricks can be done different ways. There are quite a lot of them. If you don’t know how to cover a house with bricks, you can choose one of the installation options below. We will not list all methods, but only the most popular:

1. Laying bricks with a path (spoon). In this case, the whole brick is laid with the long (spoon) side. In each subsequent row, the elements are shifted relative to the bottom row by half or a quarter of the product to ensure that the vertical seam overlaps.
2. You can line the house with facing bricks laid block masonry . In this case, rows with spoon and bonded masonry alternate, that is, one row is laid with the long side, and in the next all elements are laid with their ends.
3. Cross masonry very similar to a block one - alternating spoon and end rows. In this case, it is necessary to observe the shift of the joints by half the brick. Thus, we will get a pattern that resembles a cross - exactly above the end part of the brick there will be a spoon part, and above it again the end part.
4. You can lay out the walls Gothic masonry, when elements with spoon and butt laying alternate in one row. At the same time, in adjacent rows the spoon is shifted by a third of the length of the brick, and the poke by half of the product.
5. Brandenburg or chain masonry It is performed in such a way that a poke is placed in one row every two spoons. In the next row, the end parts of the bricks should be above the junction of the two spoons of the bottom row.
6. Chaotic masonry- this is the most extraordinary method of cladding, when no order is observed and the alternation of long and short sides is not observed. If this is your first time laying facing bricks yourself, laying them in this way will greatly simplify and facilitate the task for a beginner.

Attention: when laying stone with the end part, the element is first cut in half. Thus, whole products and halves alternate.

1. Since facing bricks must be purchased from one batch in order to avoid discrepancies in color or tone, before purchasing it you need to accurately calculate total material. This is easy to do if you find total area facades minus all openings, and then multiply the resulting value by 51 - the number of bricks in the masonry per 1 m² of wall.
2. Before covering a structure made of timber or wooden house it is necessary to carry out antiseptic treatment of all wooden elements. It is better to treat the tree twice, repeating the procedure every other day.
3. Also, before performing this work, it is necessary to strengthen the foundation or pour a new tape next to it. To do this, do the following:
   • In the old concrete base holes are drilled to a depth of 10 cm, with a cross section of 1.2 cm. B brick foundation the depth of the holes should be greater - 20 cm. These holes should be located 10 cm below the top of the base, their pitch is 50 cm, and the angle of inclination is 15-20°.
   • Reinforcing pins made of a rod with a diameter of 1.2 cm are driven into the resulting holes. In this case, the end of the reinforcement 15 cm long should stick out from the foundation.
   • Next, next to the existing foundation, it is poured new tape 30 cm wide from monolithic reinforced concrete. The reinforcement releases are bound to the frame of the new foundation and remain in the concrete forever.
   • Horizontal and vertical waterproofing of the new foundation is carried out using two layers roll material- roofing felt.

1. Before you put it on wooden house brick, you need to equip a ventilation system to prevent the wood from rotting under the cladding. To do this, between the brickwork and wooden surface must be air gap 3-4 cm wide. Ventilation ducts are also installed on the facade, the area of ​​which should be 0.75 m² for every 20 m² of facade area. To prevent rodents from getting into the vents, they are closed with special nets.

Technology for laying facing bricks

Typically, facing bricks are laid using jointing. The following technology is used:

• Brick laying is carried out on a fine day at a temperature not lower than +5°C. You cannot perform work at temperatures below zero, as the cement mortar will change its properties.
• Before proceeding with installation on the mortar, the stone is laid “dry”. This will allow you to determine the amount of stone that needs to be adjusted to size and select products for decorating door and window openings.
• Before laying the first row, the base must be leveled.
• To cut stones, a grinder with a stone disc is used. It is prohibited to chip elements with a hammer.
• For laying, a cement mortar is used, which is prepared from 1 hour of Portland cement, 3 hours of sifted river sand and 1 hour of water. Mortar mixture must be rigid enough so that the element does not “float” during installation.
• The mortar is applied to the flat part of the brick thin layer. However, it should not reach the front edge by 1 cm.
• When making masonry, first, corner rows are made to a height of 4-6 bricks. To make the dressing more reliable, it is not recommended to use halves of a stone. It is better to take elements ¾ long.
• A cord or fishing line is pulled between the two corners, along which the intermediate bricks are laid and leveled.
• To prevent the facing brick from taking moisture from cement mortar, before installation, the product is moistened with water.
• The height of the horizontal seam is 1.2 cm, the vertical seam is 1 cm.
• To perform ventilation brickwork in the bottom row, every three vertical seams, a seam is made without mortar and filled insulating material, in the upper part of the facade, ventilation is carried out due to the fact that the masonry on 1 row does not reach the cornice.
• Every 5 rows, it is recommended to remove cement that has fallen on the front surface using a wet rag.
• The facing layer must be attached to the walls of the building. To do this, during masonry, anchors with a diameter of 0.4-0.6 cm are hammered into the walls. At the same time, for each square meter the plane of the facade must have at least 45 anchors, and above window openings 8-12 attachment points are performed.
• If it was not possible to lay dowels in the masonry of the walls of the house in advance, then dowels are driven into the walls, to which the wire is tied. It should reach the middle of the facing layer and go 20 cm in each direction. Thus, the wire is hidden inside the masonry. The installation step of such dowels is 50 cm. In frame and wooden houses, nails 120 mm long are used to arrange the dressing. In a block structure, clasps are suitable for these purposes.
• When the cement has set a little, the seams are opened using wooden rod. The solution is simply pressed in.
• Window and doorways always covered with bonded masonry. For greater attractiveness, you can use elements of a different shade.

Video guide for laying facing bricks:

Cladding the external walls of a building is one of the most aesthetic finishing methods. Such a simple and obvious solution to cover a house with bricks, at first glance, does not imply any difficulties in implementation. The walls become smooth and beautiful. Besides, decorative brick has additional functions - improves thermal characteristics home and protects load-bearing walls from the influence of unfavorable external factors.

Facing (or facade) bricks are designed specifically for finishing the external elements of houses. In most cases, its dimensions are 250x120x65 mm, but there are also smaller widths - 85 mm. Decoration and external cladding buildings are made mainly of three types of bricks:

• hyper-pressed;
• ceramic;
• clinker.

When lining a house with bricks made using hyperpressing technology, the walls acquire a pleasant, well-groomed appearance. However, its structure is very dense, the air gap is completely absent.

Cladding a wooden house with hyper-pressed bricks does not require additional insulation for the winter; for other types of buildings this measure cannot be avoided.

When choosing ceramic for finishing, it is best to choose its hollow version - this will prevent an excessive increase in loads on the foundation. Inevitable negative point– increased consumption of mortar entering the cavities during the laying process. Clinker is made from special clay, fired (sintered) in tunnel kilns at very high temperatures. high temperature. Thanks to this treatment, it acquires unique characteristics: increased strength, resistance to moisture and cold, but its cost is quite high.

Requirements for facing bricks

Finishing brick differs significantly from ordinary ordinary ceramic brick in its shape, color, density, type of facade surface, sometimes size and other parameters. Its surface does not tolerate the presence of shells and cracks, the edges are smooth and have a uniform color, the edges are even, always sharp, chips are not allowed.

The requirements for finishing bricks are very strict: it must have a certain color, be quite durable, have a certain surface structure, and successfully withstand all kinds of atmospheric influences. In addition, it should have low thermal conductivity, since the brick lining is supposed to increase the house's ability to retain heat.

Advantages of cladding:

• durability;
• strength;
• no need for any maintenance.

Which facing brick is better

For different initial conditions, the selection criteria cannot be the same. For example, facade cladding timber house hyper-pressed brick is appropriate, but cladding the walls of a slag-filled building with it is unacceptable. Therefore, here are the features that you should pay attention to:

• purchase of ceramic bricks with passage cavities small sizes, allows you to save by reducing the consumption of mortar during the laying process. Moisture absorption ceramic cladding fluctuates between 6-14%, which allows the material to maintain strength even in conditions of increased dampness in combination with sudden temperature changes (freezing-thawing);
• clinker brick is very popular due to its reliability and long service life without changing its parameters; its absorption of moisture is minimal, in addition, it is environmentally flawless.
• The facing hyperpressed brick has perfectly even, very smooth edges, which leads to reduced adhesion to the mortar. In conditions high humidity its frost resistance leaves much to be desired - cracks may appear. In addition, it has a relatively high thermal conductivity, so wall insulation is required.

Do-it-yourself cladding

Decorative finishing external walls Not much different from ordinary masonry, but there are still certain differences. Cladding a house with bricks with your own hands involves increased aesthetic expectations, and therefore requires a particularly careful approach. The mortar is laid in an even layer, so that it does not reach the outer edge of the brick by 10 mm; sometimes it is appropriate to use a masonry template for this. To avoid splashes of the solution and, as a result, streaks on the wall, you must always have a clean rag on hand. Cut hard facing bricks with a grinder.

Stages of cladding work

As a rule, especially responsible masonry work are entrusted to professional masons with extensive experience, but sometimes the construction of the facing layer of walls with bricks on their own may be a matter of principle, or some other circumstances may apply. In these cases, it is important to know the nuances:

• the required number of bricks should be calculated in advance - this will prevent the risk of having to add materials from another batch, the color of which may differ from the original one. A small reserve in case of damage is welcome;
• for visual assessment required level(height) of filling the joints, it is best to carry out a trial “dry” laying - about 1 m2;
• when the masonry method is chosen, you cannot switch to any other until the work is completed;
• The solution must also not be changed; it must not contain antifreeze additives, otherwise you cannot avoid the appearance of efflorescence on the wall;
• To ensure that the color of the masonry is uniform, take bricks from several pallets at the same time;
• before laying, bricks must be immersed in water, this helps preserve the condition of the mortar;
• it is necessary to constantly monitor the verticality and horizontality of the seams using a plumb line and level.

Nuances of cladding for different types houses

Examples of the most typical cases of restoration of house facades are given:

1. A log house lined with bricks is very warm and additional insulation does not need. But before you start facing works, make sure that they do not deteriorate the quality of the wood or lead to its rotting. In any case, a very thorough preliminary treatment of the wood with an antiseptic will be required. It is necessary to inspect the foundation and floor beams, since they will have to bear additional load.

2. Facing adobe house brick presupposes the presence of a wide foundation layer (300-500 mm wider than the previous one). It is necessary to leave a gap of about 60 mm between the wall and the lining for ventilation. To ensure that the decorative wall does not move away from the main one, they need to be fastened together. For this purpose, wire, long nails, or thin bronze crutches are used.

3. Sometimes it is necessary to impose an old house facing bricks. The building already has a large mass, and more weight will be added to it decorative wall Therefore, it is necessary to build a new foundation, which must be connected with iron reinforcement to the old foundation. When laying the cladding, every 2-3 rows it is necessary to install anchors, attached with one end to the wall and the other to the decorative one.

4. Covering a slag-filled house with red facing brick is a great idea for solving several problems at once, since such structures are very cold, susceptible to moisture and unbearably gray. The main task is correct selection facing bricks - hollow ceramic is quite suitable.

5. Sheathing frame house brick is characterized by the fact that facing material should not be adjacent to the main wall. Be sure to leave a free ventilated space of 20-30 mm. The masonry must be “tied” to the building using a flexible bond - strong metal plates. The top layer, hidden by the cornice, is not laid out to provide additional ventilation.

All photos from the article

No matter how good a wooden house is, its walls are much more susceptible to wear and tear than, for example, the walls of a brick building. Therefore, sooner or later there is a need for its cladding. One of the most reliable finishing options is lining the walls with bricks, which, in fact, is the subject of this article.

Below we will look at all the advantages and disadvantages of this solution, as well as the technology of how to properly line a wooden house with bricks.

When is cladding required?

Finishing a wooden house with brick may be required in the following cases:

• The house is built from low-quality wood and has an unpresentable appearance or its geometry is far from ideal.
• The building has a frame-panel construction. In this case, it can be pre-designed for this type finishing.
• The house is old and needs strengthening of the walls. This case is the most common.

Note!
Not every wooden house can be clad in this way.
To determine whether it is possible to line a wooden house with bricks, you should pay attention to eaves overhangs, under which a brick wall should fit.
In addition, it is prohibited to finish a building that has not yet shrinked.

Despite the fact that brick wall cladding is one of the most expensive and labor-intensive, it is still in demand for private homes. A brick house has always been a sign of respectability and solidity, and cladding allows you to achieve complete identity when using other materials for the facade.

Advantages and disadvantages

The advantages of brick cladding include not only externally attractive properties. The cladding serves as protection for the main material of the wall from the effects of destructive climatic factors.

If we compare facing bricks with facade plaster, then it has much higher strength to mechanical stress.

Compared to vinyl siding or painted corrugated sheets (as part of ventilated facades), any type of brick is better able to withstand exposure to solar ultraviolet radiation. And the façade cladding stone tiles or porcelain tiles may collapse due to poor adhesion of walls and mortar.

Finishing with facing bricks allows for simultaneous insulation of the facade. Of course, the thermal insulation properties of dense materials are low, but the use of hollow bricks and a layer of insulation makes it possible to achieve high level energy saving during heating in winter and air conditioning in summer.

The disadvantages, in addition to the cost and labor intensity of the work, include the high load on the foundation, which must be taken into account when designing or reconstructing a house.

Features of wall cladding made of different materials

The facing masonry runs in half a brick. The self-supporting capacity of such a false wall is low. It must literally be tied to the facade. For this they use different materials: ready-made flexible connections, anchors, nails, strips sheet metal, masonry mesh.

The method of bonding, the need for insulation, the presence of a ventilated gap and vents depend on many properties of the facade material: strength, vapor permeability, holding force of fasteners, size of building blocks, etc.

Brick

In this case, everything is relatively simple. Both the wall and the cladding have almost the same parameters, including the dimensions of the brick. The most common fastening method is ready-made flexible connections made of metal or fiberglass. A flexible connection is a rod that has seals at the ends in the form of a “powder” of quartz sand(to improve adhesion). Such a rod is fixed at one end in a horizontal assembly seam walls, and others - in the cladding. If the seams do not match, then in the facing masonry the rod is placed in a vertical seam. Such cladding usually takes place simultaneously with insulation. For newly built brick house this allows you to reduce the thickness of the external walls and the total load on the foundation.

If polystyrene foam is used as insulation, then ventilation gap not needed. Using mineral wool there is a need to ventilate water vapor from it. Therefore, on the side of the facing layer, a washer with a lock is put on the flexible connection, which presses the insulation mat against the wall of the house and leaves a ventilated gap between it and the facing. That is, the flexible connection also serves as a fastening for the insulation (there is no need to use umbrella dowels, as in curtain wall facades).

Number of connections per 1 sq. m walls - 4 pcs. (in openings - around the perimeter every 30 cm), minimum penetration into the seam is 90 mm, maximum - 150 mm.

Cinder block or monolithic cinder concrete houses

Cinder block is a lightweight concrete. Depending on the voidness, the material may protrude into different quality, including as thermal insulation. Its main disadvantages are its unattractive appearance and low resistance to precipitation and wind loads. Therefore, insulation of a cinder block house is usually not required, but cladding is required. The best material For this purpose, bricks with low water absorption (for example, clinker or hand-molded) are considered.

The vapor permeability of brick is lower than that of cinder block. As a result, in cold weather the dew point may “get” onto the cinder block, and water vapor will not be able to erode through the cladding. To prevent the main wall from becoming damp and collapsing, you need a ventilation gap and vents at the bottom of the cladding (at the base) and at the top (under the roof).

As flexible connection use a masonry mesh, one edge of which is fixed to the wall with a bracket and dowel, and the second (in the masonry seam of the cladding) should not come out. The mesh is laid in every fifth row of brickwork.

Building blocks made of cellular concrete

Despite the differences in the manufacturing technology of aerated concrete and foam concrete, their load-bearing and thermal insulation properties are similar, there are only differences in vapor permeability (aerated concrete is higher). Facing for blocks made of cellular concrete is mandatory - the reasons are, in principle, the same as for cinder blocks.

As with cinder blocks, insulation is not necessary, but a ventilation gap is needed. Therefore, the mounting method facing masonry similar to the wall.

Wooden houses

This is perhaps the rarest case of brick cladding.

It is almost impossible to veneer a log house with bricks due to the characteristic corner cuts of the crowns. U timber houses There is no such problem, but the feasibility of cladding is very doubtful - the acquired advantages are much less than the disadvantages.

Frame (or frame-panel) wooden houses are attractive due to the absence of “wet” work, speed of construction and relatively low cost. Brick cladding is possible and practiced, but it neutralizes these advantages.

In any case, insulation when facing a wooden house with brick is, in principle, not necessary, but a gap is necessary - the lack of ventilation and weathering of excess moisture will lead to rotting of the wood. In addition, it is mandatory to treat the walls with antiseptics.

If insulation is carried out, it is performed using mineral wool mats, which have high vapor permeability. Installation of insulation is carried out over the lathing, using the technology of ventilated facades - with laying on top of a windproof, vapor-permeable membrane.

When insulating, it is not a masonry mesh that is used as a flexible connection, but pieces of wire attached to the wall with nails or self-tapping screws (at the rate of 4 pieces per 1 sq. m).

Preparatory stage for old houses

For old houses, it is necessary to strengthen the old one or improve it separate foundation, capable of holding additional brickwork.

1. Gain strip foundation. A trench is dug along the perimeter just below the depth of the old foundation. They fill the bottom with a cushion of crushed stone and sand, place formwork on the ground side, clean the wall of the old foundation from dirt, prime it with bitumen primer, and drill holes for steel rods to which the reinforcement cage is tied. Poured concrete mixture, not forgetting about the underground vents or basement windows.

2. Expansion slab foundation uses the same technology as the tape method.

3. If the house is on a pile or columnar foundation, then for cladding they make a similar one.

Another feature of the cladding of old houses is the “poor” geometry of the walls. As a result of shrinkage and settlement of the house, deviations in levels usually occur. If shrinkage “manifests itself” more strongly in wooden houses (especially from materials with natural humidity), then the settlement depends on the type of soil and the weight of the structure. Therefore, when strengthening the foundation, this factor must be taken into account.

With the “horizon” everything is simple. And the “vertical” for new corners and walls must be counted from the point of maximum deviation of the old facade (taking into account the width of the masonry and the thickness of the insulation).

Types of facing bricks

Facing (or front) ceramic brick differs from ordinary brick in improved appearance, including a large selection of colors and textured surface. As a rule, this is a slotted (or hollow) brick that has good thermal insulation properties.

Clinker hollow brick is initially considered to be a facing brick. It has high mechanical strength and very low water absorption.

Hand-molded brick is chosen for retro style. High price and, as a rule, a full-bodied format.

Hyperpressed brick has high decorative properties, but is produced exclusively as a full-bodied one.

The last two types are used either for cladding walls with high thermal insulation properties (for example, warm ceramics or cellular concrete), or together with the installation of a layer of insulation.

Laying facing bricks

The algorithm for laying facing bricks is standard - from the corners, which are used as beacons, with periodic checking of compliance with the levels.

A calibrated square metal rod is used as a template for making a masonry joint of the same thickness - this is one of the simplest methods.

If the cladding is carried out without insulation and a ventilation gap, then the solution is applied not only to the brick, but also to the wall itself.

If a masonry mesh is used as a connection to the wall, then no reinforcement is done. In other cases, every fifth seam is reinforced with a mesh or two rods laid in parallel.

It is better to do jointing in the same plane with the surface of the wall, so that water does not collect in the seam, but flows down.

Using color masonry mortar makes the cladding more attractive.