How to choose lumber. How to choose wood for building a house: which species is better to choose. Nor-we og-ra-ni-niya po-ro-kov

Currently, lumber is not considered a scarce product. They are available at any construction base, and there are a huge number of them in our country. What parameters should you use to choose boards in order to buy quality material? Which wood to choose, freshly cut or already grey, slightly covered with fungus?

It all depends on the type of lumber, on what kind tree species used in its manufacture, what is the quality of processing. This will cause not only the price to fluctuate, but also the quality of the purchased material. Let’s assume that in front of you is a log that has been passed once through a “circular saw” at a sawmill. This processing produces a material called carriage; it has planes on both sides. However, if four planes are cut down, then this is already edged material, which in turn will be divided into subtypes, be it timber, edged board or small timber. Have you heard the name planed molding? This includes lining, floorboards, skirting boards, floor boards, etc. Glued products include laminated veneer lumber, logs and furniture panels.

Do you think that there is no need for the average person to load their heads with professional terms? You are mistaken, at construction sites any seller will operate with exactly these terms, and in order not to get into trouble and understand what is being offered to you, you need to know the terminological minimum.

After lumber has gone through the sawmill phase, it develops wide surfaces called faces, narrow surfaces called edges, and end surfaces called ends. The layer that is farthest from the core of the log is considered external, less distant - internal. In relation to the annual rings, the layers can be located differently, depending on how the sawing took place: radially, tangentially or mixed. To size cross section, the edged material will be divided into beams (width and thickness exceeding 100 mm), boards (width exceeding double thickness) and bars (width not exceeding double thickness).

For domestic sawn timber there are standards: 100 x 100 mm, 100 x 150 mm, 150 x 150 mm. As a rule, sawmills produce timber 6 meters long. The use of longer spans is simply not rational or economical. To produce such material, you will have to place an individual order. The width and thickness of the timber can also be changed at your discretion. However, any deviation from standard values ​​will mean an increase in the price of the material. It will also be more expensive to buy profiled timber, its surfaces are processed according to high class cleanliness.

The edged board, as a rule, has the following dimensions: thickness 25, 40, 50 mm, width 100, 150 mm, length 6 m. Such construction boards available on any base, but if you need the material custom size, you will have to run around and look, and in the worst case, even place an order for an individual cut. Small timber is usually made in two sizes: 40 x 40 mm and 50 x 50 mm; the timber has two lengths: 3 and 6 m. When sawing to make timber or edged boards, a by-product called slab is often used. On one side the croaker has a face, on the other the hump is made of untreated wood. However, this material is also quite suitable for the construction of temporary structures. If you want to use it for cladding or for a subfloor, you must be sure to edge it and treat it with an antiseptic. Otherwise, after just a couple of years, he will turn into dust. Among molded products, lining is the most popular. It is used for both internal and external exterior finishing premises. More correct name lining - a cladding board, under this name it is written down in technical documents. Recently, a cladding board called “American” has appeared on the market; it has a variable profile and is made from coniferous trees. For laying floors there is a special floorboard, its width ranges from 85 to 140 mm, with standard width in 27, 37 or 45 mm. Small molded products, such as skirting boards, platbands, glazing beads, corners, can also be made in a wide variety of sizes, which allows everyone to focus on their own taste.

Let's talk a little about lumber made from various breeds tree. Leading place Pine materials occupy the domestic market. Pine is known for its strength, they are easy to work with wood, unlike hardwood, pine does not absorb moisture so intensively. That is why beams, boards and moldings are so often made from pine. Among the coniferous species, spruce, cedar, larch and fir are also favorites. Among the carpentry materials that have gained particular popularity for finishing are: oak, beech, ash, and mahogany. Aspen is very often used as facing material for a sauna or steam room, birch is used as the basis for making parquet.

Selection details.

Well, let's move on to the actual selection of lumber. When choosing a material, always pay attention to the type of wood. On the domestic market there is wood of 0, 1, 2, 3 and 4 grades. The difference between varieties is in the quantity and quality of knots present on the material. It is much more difficult to determine sawn wood by grade than planed wood. On planed wood, you can see with your own eyes how many knots there are on it and evaluate their quality. If you have doubts about the quality of the product being offered, you should take a specialist with you, but if this is not possible, make every effort to prevent the sale of low-quality wood to you. Your main weapon should be knowledge of the technical minimum. Knowing the basics, you can ensure the purchase of materials for high-quality construction and finishing of a country house.

If you purchase lumber yourself, be sure to carry a tape measure with you. Very often there is a situation that in one batch of seemingly completely identical materials there is a spread in length, this is not critical as a rule, but the spread in width, thickness or configuration is much more serious problem. If you don’t notice this in time when buying lining or tongue-and-groove floorboards, you will waste a lot of time and money. Also, don’t expect perfect geometry from a board with various bends and deformations. They can be easily checked using a regular string, applying it to the edges of the board. A large variation in the length of the supporting beams of crossbars or rafters can be seen with the naked eye, however, there are situations when instead of the stated 6-meter board they sell you 5.5. That's why it's worth taking with you measuring device, in order to estimate the length of the purchased product on the spot. It is worth paying attention to the thickness of the board; in some places it may vary. And when using low-quality equipment, or cutting too quickly, thickening and bends can form at the ends. If you have a tongue-and-groove floor board with such flaws, your carpenters will have a long time installing it. However, if you are not lazy and spend a few minutes more in the store, such shortcomings will immediately appear.

One more significant drawback lumber is its possible low strength. Most often, lumber with low strength was stored incorrectly, moisture got into it, or there were violations in the drying technology in production. In some cases, low strength may be due to the use of young trees as the main raw material. This, of course, cannot be detected using a tape measure. But it’s worth noting right away that if you see black or falling knots on the surface, put such a board aside, you don’t need it. There are situations when construction sites try to sell lumber with raw edges for load-bearing wall. This does not add prestige to the manufacturer, but it is worth remembering that poorly sawn edges, even the ends, are still a problem of appearance, not the quality of the wood. On overall reliability and durability wooden structure assembled from such material, this will not be reflected in any way. However, if you choose lumber for interior or exterior decoration, and it has poorly finished edges, then it is necessary to replace the material. The material used for finishing should not have any flaws and take up time from the workers involved in finishing the premises. By the way, they may require additional payment for this, and the speed of their work will be reduced.

It's time to talk about the natural flaws of wood, which can affect the quality of the lumber used. The conditions in which the tree grew and developed greatly influence structural features wood, various deviations in the structure and development of the trunk are even possible. This can cause early defects, which significantly limit the range of possible uses of this wood. Such deviations include: curvature of the trunk, the presence of growths, large quantity knots and forks along the entire length of the trunk, which can cause changes in structure, color and change the mechanical strength of the wood.

Knots remain in places where branches grow, which significantly reduces the value of the wood when selling it. In place of knots, mechanical strength is usually lower, and after drying, the knot will lose connection with the base and weaken the structure. In addition, knots are also an aesthetic problem, affecting the appearance of the structure. Each type of lumber has its own standards, according to which the number of acceptable knots is determined, their maximum dimensions, type and distance between them. It’s not worth going into such details, but remember that the fewer knots on the material, the better.

Unfortunately, it is impossible to completely get rid of cracks. Wood is a living material, and cracks appear in wood during growth due to the influence of various natural factors. Cracks are divided into frost, spall and metic. Frost cracks appear during severe frosts. When internal moisture expands, it leads to the formation of through cracks, directed radially. Peeling cracks occur due to internal tension, which occurs from time to time in the trunk, is caused by the detachment of growth rings from each other, and also due to metric cracks that are directed upward along the trunk. In addition, cracks form as a result of shrinkage. Too many cracks in the wood should alert you, and quite possibly even make you think about refusing to purchase of this lumber. Another defect in lumber is cross-grain. These are the so-called various deviations of the direction of the fibers from the longitudinal axis of the tree. Such defects have a very serious effect on the perception of lateral loads. The cross-layer has and different varieties, for example, curliness. This is a fibrous arrangement of fibers with a curl, which leads to local curvature of the growth layers. Overgrowth is understood as a defect in a certain area of ​​wood that arose as a result mechanical damage fiber. Such wood is not only characterized by poor appearance, but also complicates the finishing process. There may also be fungal infections of wood. As a result of the formation of fungus, mechanical changes occur in the properties of wood, and the color tone also changes.

If you notice any defect, you must immediately notify the seller, but should you immediately refuse the purchase? This approach is not very rational. It is worth making a distinction for what purpose you are buying lumber. For walls, floors or trim. In some cases, for example when finishing, some defects in the form of a pattern on wood can be played out very well.

If you choose finishing profile elements, then the choice should be the most picky. The decorative functions of such elements should also be taken into account. There should be no defects on them, unless they are strong fused knots, no more than 20 mm in size, through cracks up to 10 mm and slanting up to 10% are also considered the norm. Such stringent requirements should only apply to front surface finishing element. Larger defects are also allowed on invisible surfaces, but also within the limits of the standardized sizes. Don’t forget about humidity, it must meet certain requirements. Parts used for the interior must have a humidity of no more than 12%; for the facade this figure increases to 18%. But in any case, this parameter cannot be determined by eye.

In conclusion, it is worth noting that an increasing number of suppliers are now trying to insure their consumers against low-quality raw materials. When concluding a contract, you should pay attention to the legal aspects of solving this problem, clarify the mutual responsibility of the manufacturer and the consumer.

Russia does not experience a shortage of wood. Our country is rich in forests like no other. Wood is a strategic material for the construction of both a residential building and a temporary cottage in the country.

General information

When a particular material is purchased at a retail outlet, the buyer has the right to inquire about the type of wood put up for sale. In most cases, it is this parameter that determines the quality level of the feedstock.

The cost of the material is also determined by the grade. The most expensive are 1st and 2nd grade lumber from pine or spruce. They are processed according to all standards in the factory.

Lumber from the 3rd and 4th grades is not subject to particularly careful processing. Or it may be processed material, but without meeting generally accepted standards. Such wood is used on the farm.

In addition, when purchasing lumber, the buyer must pay attention to dimensions. The domestic market has established standards specified in a special table. There is a certain standard for the sale of any type of wood.

Humidity material is also important indicator quality. However, this parameter is in turn divided into several categories. For example, wood may have natural moisture or factory-dried moisture. Dried wood is usually used in construction. An experienced builder will determine the humidity indicator by eye, visually.

It is known that when stored in air for a long time, lumber darkens, acquiring a brownish tint. In addition, dried wood has less mass.

All these parameters, one way or another, affect the cost of lumber and everything construction project. The most expensive are those processed in accordance with federal standards and factory-dried boards.

Types of buildings and materials

When choosing a material from the variety that the market offers, you should remember that not everyone is suitable for living space or for decoration. When purchasing wood in large quantities, you cannot make a mistake, since the wrong choice will hurt the buyer’s budget.

First of all, you need to pay attention to wood species. No less important is the way it is processed.

During construction wooden house It is necessary to decide in advance which material will be the main wall material, and which lumber will be used for interior decoration.

For device load-bearing structure Edged pine lumber is ideal. It is on such structures that the workload is distributed, and pine is traditionally known for its high strength indicators.

The building frame and walls are usually made of timber. This unique material, with which you can make any fantasy come true. Glued or rounded timber allows you to construct buildings of any shape.

It is often used for the construction of:

• residential buildings;
• small garden buildings;
• country houses;
• garages.

Linden lumber is traditionally used to build a bathhouse. The fact is that linden does not contain resinous resins and, accordingly, is not subject to overheating. In addition, linden is not affected by high humidity. In addition, it has an excellent inhalation effect, which is appropriate for the construction of baths and saunas.

Pine lumber is often used for finishing a constructed building due to its aesthetic properties. It fills any room with a special energy of light. In addition, pine or spruce building materials are the most environmentally friendly. It is impregnated with aromatic resins and is practically not subject to corrosion. In addition, bark beetles and other pests very rarely grow in resinous woods.

Lumber is sold in any hardware store. They can be found in unlimited quantity on the smallest construction base. However, when the issue turns to a practical level, future homeowners are surprised at the variation in the price of lumber. Choosing a quality material for construction means ensuring a large part of the success of the entire project.

Lumber is selected depending on the intended purpose.

It could be:

• lining;
• rounded log;
• block house;
• imitation timber;
• batten.

When a contract is drawn up in LESINTER for the construction of a house from rounded logs, from logs manual cutting, timber or other similar material, it is necessary to clearly state what type of wood we are talking about.

If the future homeowner is ready to pay for only 1st grade lumber, this will be a separate expense item. If, on the recommendation of specialists, both 1st and 2nd grade wood can be used at some stage of construction, this will help save the budget.

In a dacha farm, something always needs to be built, attached, repaired, or you just need a board. This means that lumber should be on hand. We will talk about how to choose them correctly. And so that my advice does not look like just a list of wood defects, I will give an example from life.

Board to board discord

When my good friend, summer resident Alexander Rykov, and I arrived at the timber trading base, the seller, having learned what kind of boards we needed, brought us to a small package of boards and began to praise the product:

Just look at these wonderful boards,” he cried, “one to one, it couldn’t be better.” Only for you! Drive the car, we'll load it in a moment!

Probably fascinated by such convincing eloquence, my companion reached into his pocket for money to pay, but I stopped him:

Wait, Sasha. The boards above are truly excellent, but let's take a look at what's inside this package just in case.

“You’ll ruin the boards, and then I’ll have to put them together again,” the seller said displeasedly.

“We will definitely buy boards,” I assured him. - But first we want to make sure that everything is as you tell us.

For some reason the seller shook his head reproachfully, but said nothing. And we, without hesitation, began to inspect the package.

So what?.. Of the sixty boards, nine were not those that were declared. Among them were unedged boards, boards with wane (wane is the edge of a board, partially or completely left unsawed (with bark); boards with rotten places. And even slabs! I knew that slabs at sawmills are often simply burned.

It is clear that, having hidden non-standard, and therefore much cheaper, boards among the standard boards, the seller undoubtedly counted on the fact that, having actually bought a “pig in a poke,” we, like many others, would curse when we discovered defective boards at home, but Of course, we won’t take them back to the timber trading base. Like, is it necessary to make a fuss over several boards? And even with an unpredictable result? Because it’s good if everything works out quietly and peacefully. But it is not at all impossible that the seller, in response to the claims, will put on an innocent face and say that they have never had anything like this. And what, they say, how does he know that you haven’t replaced the boards? And quite reasonably he will advise: “You should have looked right away. And after a fight they don’t wave their fists.” And he will be right.

Therefore, I am sure: most summer residents would not get involved with deceivers of this kind. However, in our case the seller miscalculated...

Do you have a conscience if you sell defective boards at the price of high-quality boards? - I asked the seller, pointing to the obviously substandard boards.

These words contain the whole essence of modern trade: to deceive the buyer in any way. Therefore, in order not to get into trouble when choosing lumber, you need to arm yourself with knowledge. What I suggest you do...

Of course, Rykov and I bought the boards. But at our insistent request, the seller, although very reluctantly, nevertheless replaced not only the defective boards, but also those that seemed suspicious to us.

This is the first time I’ve met such corrosive clients,” he complained and, after hesitating, concluded: “It’s good that not everyone is like that.”

How to choose round timber at a sawmill

Having purchased logs from a forestry department or from a private owner, be sure to carefully inspect them before using them in business. Always remember that by putting logs with defects into a log house or using them for another purpose, you will inevitably create problems for yourself in the future. After all, such logs will last much less time than others, and therefore they need to be replaced. And this is not even very simple work. So, let's check...

First, tap each log with the butt of an ax. Healthy wood will respond with a booming sound, while wood damaged by insects or rot will produce a dull sound.

Then take care of the cut areas. One of the most common defects in logs is cracks. They are divided into metic, peeling and shrinkage cracks.

Metik (Figure 1) are radially directed internal cracks extending from the core. Such cracks are long in length, appear in a growing tree and increase in felled wood as it dries. Methic cracks in logs occur only at the ends.

Peeling cracks(Figure 2) pass between the annual rings and, as a rule, have a large extent. These cracks, like methic cracks, occur in growing wood and enlarge in cut wood as it dries.

Shrinkage cracks(Figure 3) are radially directed cracks that appear in felled wood under the influence of internal forces during the drying process. All types of cracks, especially through ones, greatly damage the integrity of timber, and often reduce their mechanical strength.

Hence the conclusion - do not store logs (there is no need to talk about boards: this goes without saying) under open air. It is easy to understand that in this case the logs are exposed to precipitation - the wood is saturated with moisture and then dries out. Moreover, the logs dry out differently in different directions, and therefore cracks form. A similar phenomenon often occurs in logging and sawmills. Another fairly common defect in logs is list(Figure 4). The heel can be seen at the ends in the form of arched, less often ring-shaped sections of dark-colored wood. Heel increases shrinkage along the fibers, thereby causing cracking and warping.

When choosing logs, you should also take into account such an important circumstance as damage to them by insects. They damage mainly unrooted, freshly cut trees. Some of them make passages only in the bark (Figure 5), while many others go deeper into the wood (Figure 6). Both deep and superficial wormholes damage the integrity of wood and significantly reduce its strength and durability.

There are several other defects of timber, but when using logs in dacha farming they are not significant, so it is not necessary to know them.

Rice. 7
1. Croaker.
2. Plate.
3. Quarter.
4. Double-edged timber.
5. Four-edge beam– a) Obzol.
6. Clean timber.
7. Semi-edged board – a) Wane.
8. Edged board.

If you need lumber

I will not list all types of materials (Figure 7), but will only talk about those that are mainly used by summer residents.

Naturally, the most popular material is boards. This is where, when purchasing them, you should, as popular wisdom advises, “keep your eyes open.” You can easily miss here.

(End to follow)

Alexander Nosov, shabashnik with many years of experience

Choosing a floorboard is a process that should be taken seriously. When purchasing a rough or fine coating, you should take into account a number of necessary characteristics: quality, type of wood and dimensions of the board. The service life of the floor depends on how well the material is selected. After all, it bears the main mechanical load.

There are several parameters by which to choose wood covering. The dimensions of the floorboard are not the last thing to choose. This characteristic depends on the following factors:

• place of use (residential premises, outbuildings, street, verandas);
• what kind of coating it is (rough or finishing);
• load on the planned floor layer.

The length is selected based on the parameters of the premises so that there is minimal amount joints, waste. Fortunately, the building materials market allows this to be done. The existing size range is 2, 3, 4, 6 m.

The choice of floorboard thickness depends on the intensity of use and the distance between the joists. The higher it is, the thicker the board will be required. For example, if the distance is up to 700 mm, then it is better to choose a board thickness of 35–40 mm, above this size – 40–50 mm.

The width of the board is selected taking into account the design idea. Large canvases are more susceptible to shrinkage, which will subsequently affect the quality of the floor covering. Types of sizes from 85 mm to 140 mm.

The most popular board size: length – 2–3 m, width – 105 mm, thickness – 20-35 mm.

Which board is best for the floor?

Building and renovating a home is not a cheap project. That's why " Which board is best to use for the floor?" - actual question. Correct selection material will significantly save money without losing the quality of the floor:

1. For roughing, slabs and unedged blades are used. Quality, low price. Use for subfloor edged board should be done if a finishing coating is planned for it, requiring level base(laminate, parquet, linoleum). Coniferous rough board is the most popular type. It has sufficient strength at a low price.
2. Breeds used for baths deciduous trees such as linden and aspen. These coatings are resistant to high temperatures and high humidity, will not release resin when heated. Making a floor in a bathhouse from untreated material is a big mistake (this is fraught with splinters during operation). The presence of resin will cause burns.
3. For homes and apartments, the finishing flooring is made from different types of wood. The choice depends on financial capabilities and stylistic decisions. Coniferous fabrics are often used. But there is also a place for expensive tree species: larch, oak, cedar. It all depends on the planned design, load, and intensity of walking. The board used is processed. Best option– . This material forms a smooth, durable coating. Ventilation grooves must be made along the inside. This allows the flooring to “breathe” regardless of the base.
4. Larch and oak are used on the open veranda. These materials have high strength data and are also not susceptible to rotting or fungus formation. For open verandas The board goes on the floor, corrugated. This coating does not allow moisture to accumulate; it flows down the grooves. This terrace floor has a pleasant roughness. In winter, the corrugated larch surface will prevent you from slipping.

Which board is best to use for the floor depends on each person specific case. But correctly selected material for one or another environment, microclimate, type of room will help save money on further work for rework. You should pay attention to the level of drying of the planks. This will prevent gaps from forming after shrinkage.

Video: Choosing a floorboard

Having decided to use natural material under the finishing coating, you should study its properties. This will help you make the right choice in favor of a certain type of wood. Which will best suit your needs specifications. The following species are used for wooden floors.

Conifers (pine, spruce, fir). Optimal ratio price quality. The canvases contain natural resins, which are natural antiseptics. This means the floor will be less susceptible to rotting and fungus. Another important property is good vapor permeability. It allows coniferous floors to maintain normal moisture levels in the room. The floor made of pine and spruce boards releases ethereal odors into the microclimate of the room, which have a beneficial effect on health. Another representative began to appear on the building materials market coniferous– fir. This material contains a smaller amount of resins, which means it will require additional processing antiseptics protection.

Oak. The nobility, durability, and unique texture of this breed are difficult to dispute. But the price for such material is quite high. If we consider the service life of cheaper species and oak, then the cost becomes quite affordable. TO positive characteristics moisture resistance can be added. Oak becomes even stronger under the influence of water. It is not susceptible to rotting, the formation of fungus, mold, has a wide range of textures and low thermal conductivity. Oak also has good sound insulation.

Siberian larch. According to the main characteristics, this material is close to oak.

Has the same properties:

• durability;
• not susceptible to rotting, mold, mildew;
• supports optimal microclimate, releases antiseptic ethereal elements;
• good thermal conductivity, sound insulation properties, resists direct exposure to moisture;
• high strength data.

Along with the listed advantages, this material has 12 different shades.

Alder, aspen. These types of wood do not have particular strength or durability. But when heated, tannins are released into the indoor microclimate, which have a positive effect on health. This natural floorboard is used for finishing baths and saunas. Alder has found its place in the decoration of children's bedrooms. Where there is no intensive walking, but family members stay for a long time.

Cedar, linden. The first option is very expensive. But this cost is due healing properties, unique texture, strength, resistance to moisture. Cedar contains essential oils, which have a beneficial effect on the microclimate of the home and health. If the budget allows, then this flooring will make the family very happy for a long time. Linden is considered available material. It has healing properties, soft texture, low thermal conductivity, and has a flavoring effect. Disadvantage: susceptible to rot and fungus formation. Requires antiseptic impregnation.

What boards are needed is determined by the budget and technical specifications. You can use exotic materials, but how relevant is this because of the price?

There are four types of wood:

1. Extra class;

Extra class is mainly used for finishing coatings. The canvases have no visible defects, practically no knots, and have a uniform shade.

Class A, B have found their application as finishing coatings. The presence of knots is determined, resin pockets, cracks may be present, but not through.

Class C is usually used as a roughing board. The canvases have visible defects that cannot be corrected mechanically.

Laying floorboards on joists

This process can be broken down into several stages:

1. Installation of logs;
2. , insulation of the underground space;
3. Installation of the finishing coating.

Wooden coverings will require a device ventilation holes(outlet). At the first stage, it is important to determine the distance between the lags. It is better if it is 600 mm. The logs are laid across the length of the boards. It will be easier to lay the floor if the timber is laid out level.

The second stage allows you to organize additional thermal insulation and protection from moisture.

The third stage is the most important. Laying the floor begins with a gap of 10 mm from the walls. Natural floorboards have high plasticity and mobility. The first board is laid tongue-and-groove against the wall and secured with self-tapping screws with a flat head with a recess. The second panel is inserted into the groove of the previous one and fixed. If you have to lay boards on joists in two rows along the length of the canvas, then it is recommended to make an offset. This technology will give finishing additional strength. After installation, a plinth is installed that will cover the technical holes between the boards and the wall.

Video: The process of laying floorboards with your own hands

Conclusion

The modern building materials market makes it possible to purchase any wooden floor covering. But choose the right species, type, size of panels, class of wood and make high-quality installation not everyone can do it. And the service life and quality of the floor depend on this. If you don’t have confidence in your abilities, it’s better to hire professionals to do the flooring.

Video: Tips for laying floorboards

In turn, the strength and longevity of the future construction depends on the quality of the pi-lo-ma-te-ri-alov. For this reason, it is very important to re-notice and reject the wrong ma-te-ri-al.

Lumber must be made from coniferous wood pine, spruce, fir, larch and cedar.

Ob-rez-noy pi-lo-ma-te-ri-al- this is a pi-lo-ma-te-ri-al having a rectangular cross-section with a possible start-up of ash-la (ob-zol - de -effect when drawing trees, drying along the edge of a board, for example, ko-ra de-re-va) , if he does not exceed the given norm-ma-ti-va-mi values.

The same group exists non-re-cut pi-lo-ma-te-ri-als, some of whose edges may have non-opi-le-ny, or o-opi-le-ny partly. Occasionally, a child is cut about the pi-lo-ma-te-ri-al with poorly sawn-off edges, this speaks of the fact that the enterprise is trying to get to the full extent - profit due to the eco-no-mia of the tree-vi-si-ny, trying to get out of the non-ob-ra-bo-tan-no-go ma-te-ri-ala on-re- produce as much production as possible.

It’s necessary to understand that such a pi-lo-ma-te-ri-al about-la-da-et is not very good-for-that-la- It’s better to use it for the purpose of ma-te-ri-ala in the construction of an object. For internal and external purposes, pi-lo-ma-te-ri-alas must look ideal.

Classification of lumber

The main types of pi-lo-ma-te-ri-als:

1. Pi-lo-voch-nick(round-lyak) - round forest, log.

2. La fet- a log, passed once on a pi-lo-ram and having flatness on both sides. “In the way” the product of the lu-che-niya la-fe-tov appears:

• bad luck
• uncut board

3. Ob-rez-noy ma-te-ri-al(when all four-hundred-of-ones are about-pi-le-ny). Po-lu-cha-et-sya pu-them ras-pi-lov-ki la-fe-ta. Divided by:

• beam,
• cutting board
• chalk bru-juice

4. Strictly po-go-press. It may be dry and damp. To ne-mu from-no-sit-sya:

• dos-ka po-la,
• ob-shi-voch-naya board (va-gon-ka and ev-ro-va-gon-ka),
• folding,
• small ones made from de-lia (plinth-tus, na-lych-nick, shta-pik, etc.).

5. Glued from de-lia. They are supplied with laminated veneer lumber, etc.

Pi-lo-ma-te-ri-alas are all-ma-do-ro-state-y product of de-re-in-work-bot-ki, so as the production yield is only 65%, and the remaining 35% is waste in the form of mountains (14%), op- lok (12%), ob-rez-kov, me-lo-chi (9%).

Ka-ches-your ma-teri-ala

From the speedy growth of pi-li-va-niya pi-lo-ma-te-ri-alov and from us-three ob-ru-do-va-niya for-vi-sit scatter-bros party size pi-lo-ma-te-ri-alov, both in thickness and length. The dispersion in size is reflected in the complexity of races to each other, in the result of something -I am behind the eyes and not in length.

Exist stand-dar-you, ha-rak-te-ri-zu-yushchie ka-ches-your pi-lo-ma-te-ri-ala, its dimension. This includes GOSTs, for example, GOST 8486-86, GOST 10950-78, and a large number of others.

Pi-lo-ma-te-ri-ala variety op-re-de-la-has the number of knots per unit length, as well as the number of them. When choosing a ma-te-ri-ala for non-existing cons-tructions, for example, an inter-zhe-tazh-noy beam, a variety of pi-lo-ma-te- ri-ala is more important than her appearance.

According to the quality of the trees and work on the boards and beams for five varieties(selected 1, 2, 3, 5th), and the bars are of four grades (1, 2, 3, 4th) and must be matched with weight create certain requirements.

Pi-lo-ma-te-ri-ala from-bor-no-go, 1, 2, 3-grades from-go-to-la-yut su-hi-mi (with humidity no more than 22%) and cheese-ry-mi an-ti-sep-ti-ro-van-ny-mi. In the period from May 1 to October 1, from-go-to-le-nie damp an-ti-sep-ti-ro-van-nyh and damp pi-lo-ma -te-ri-alov to-pus-ka-et-sya in agreement with pot-re-bi-te-lem (for-kaz-chi-com). The humidity of 4th grade p-lo-ma-te-ri-alov is not normal.

ABOUTprice ka-ches-tva pi-lo-ma-te-ri-alov, except for the keys of the decks, should be made according to the surface or edge, which is worse for a given board, and brus-kov and brus-ev square-no-go se-che-niya - according to the worst hundred.

Pa-ra-meter she-ro-ho-va-tos-ti on-top-khnos-ti pi-lo-ma-te-ri-alovshould not exceed 1250 microns for selected, 1, 2, and 3rd grades, and for the 4th grade - 1600 microns.

Wood defects in lumber

Nor-we og-ra-ni-niya po-ro-kov

By the rocks of the trees according to GOST 2140-81
	from boron		1st		2nd		3rd		4th
1. Bitches 1.1. The grown together are healthy, and in the beams and partially grown together and ungrown are healthy:	Allowed sizes in fractions of the width of the side and in quantity on any one-metre section of length on each side, no more:
	Size	Qty, PC.	Size	Qty, PC.	Size	Qty, PC.	Size	Qty, PC.	Size	Qty, PC.
plastic and ribbed thickness 40 mm or more	1/5 1/3 1/4, but no more 15 mm	2 1	1/4 1/2 1/3	3 2	1/3 2/3 1/2	4 2	1/2 All over the edge Same	4 2	Let's go Let's go Let's go
Note. In the beams, the number of knots is not normal.
1.2. Partially fused	Up to the total number of fused healthy branches in size in fractions of the width of the side and in the number per hole one-meter-long section on each side, no more:
	Size	Qty, PC.	Size	Qty, PC.	Size	Qty, PC.	Size	Qty, PC.	Size	Qty, PC.
plastic and ribbed edges: on pi-loma-teri-alas up to 40 mm thick thickness 40 mm or more	1/8 1/4 10 mm	2 1	1/5 1/3 1/4	2 1	1/4 1/2 1/3	3 2	1/3 All over the edge 2/3	3 2	1/2 All over the edge Same	4 2
1.3. Decayed rotten and that-butter	Not allowed		Up to the total number of partially fused and ungrown healthy branches of the same size and no more caught we have their number The tree that surrounds those tree branches should not have any sign of rot.
	In saw-loma-ter-alas for non-existent constructions, the sum of the sizes of all knots located on a section 200 mm long should not you want to exceed the maximum size of the branches.

Notes:

1. The bitches are less sized than maxi-small, but don’t teach them before they let them go.

2. B pi-lo-ma-te-ri-alah 40 mm thick and more (with the exception of boron grade), up to the length of time -tied and stitched knots with a size along the minor axis of up to 6 mm and a depth of up to 3 mm without limiting the difference measures along the major axis.

3. PA-SY-SNU-PUS-KA-KO-SIS-MAMS NOT-ROS-SIME there. It’s not allowed in the other sort.

4. The size of the bitch op-re-de-la-yut distances between the ka-sa-tel-us to the edge of the bitch, pro-ve- den-ny-mi par-ral-lel-but pro-longitudinal axis pi-lo-ma-te-ri-ala. For measuring the length and sewing the knots on the sheets of the p-lo-ma-te-ri-als and on all sides of the beams and brus-ev pri-ni-ma-yut po-lo-vi-nu the distances between ka-sa-tel-ny-mi, pro-ve-den-ny-mi pa-ral-lel -but about the longitudinal axis of the pi-lo-ma-te-ri-ala:

5. B pi-lo-ma-te-ri-alah more than 3 m long to be allowed on one branch of the same size, pre-us-mot-ren in the adjacent standards -but of a lower grade.

6. On site pi-lo-ma-te-ri-alov long, equal to its width, the largest sum of the dimensions of the branches lying on a straight line, per-re-se- Any knot in any direction should not exceed the maximum size of the knots.

Continuation

By the rocks of the trees according to GOST 2140-81	We limit the limits of rocks in pi-loma-teri-alas for varieties
	from boron	1st	2nd	3rd	4th
2. Cracks 2.1. Plastic and hem, including end-on	Up to the length in fractions of the length of the pi-loma-teri-ala, no more				Let's go subject to preservation conditions tse-los-tnos-ti pi-loma-teri-ala
	Neg-sides		Neg-sided and deep-sided
	1/6 1/10	1/4 1/6	1/3 Deep-sided	1/2
2.2. Plastic end-to-end, including end-to-end	Up to length in mm, no more:			Up to the total length in fractions of the length of the pi-loma-teri-ala, no more:
	100	150	200
2.3. End-to-end (except for cracks and shrinkage)	Not allowed	Up to a length of pi-loma-teri-ala at one end, in fractions of the width, no more:			Allowed for the preservation of the integrity of the p-loma-teri-ala
		1/4	1/3

Note. The acceptable dimensions of cracks are us-ta-nov-le-ny for pi-lo-ma-te-ri-al with humidity wood-ve-si-ny not more more than 22%, with high humidity these sizes of cracks are reduced by half.

Continuation

By the rocks of the trees according to GOST 2140-81	We limit the limits of rocks in pi-loma-teri-alas for varieties
	from boron	1st	2nd	3rd	4th
3. The rocks of wood structure 3.1. Bend-lon into curl	Let's go no more than 5%	Let's go
3.2. Kren	Not allowed	Let's go no more than 20% plastic area ma-teri-ala	Let's go
3.3. Kar-mashki	Let's go one-sided on any one-met-ro-vom section of length in quantity 1 PC. not long more than 50 mm	Let's go to any od-no-met-ro-vom teach-ske length of pi-loma-teri-ala in pcs., no more		Let's go
		2	4
3.4. Heart-fault and double-heart-fault	Not allowed	Let's go without a magnifying glass and ra-di-al-nyh cracks only in pi-loma-teri-alah thickness 40 mm and more	Let's go
3.5. Pro-growth	Not allowed	Up to one-sided width in shares from the other side of the world, no more:			Let's go
		1/10	1/5	1/4
		and length in fractions of the length of pi-loma-teri-ala, no more:
		1/30	1/10	1/10
3.6. Cancer	Not allowed		Up to		Let's go
			1/5 but no more than 1 m	1/3

Continuation

By the rocks of the trees according to GOST 2140-81	We limit the limits of rocks in pi-loma-teri-alas for varieties
	from boron	1st	2nd	3rd	4th
4. Fungal infections 4.1. Mushroom poisonous spots (poisonous)	Not allowed	Up to the total area in % of the area of ​​the pi-loma-teri-ala, no more:		Let's go
		10	20
4.2. For bologna mushroom stains and mold	Not allowed	Let the surface ones be seen in the form of spots and stripes. Deep ones with a total area in % of the area of ​​the pi-loma-teri-ala, no more:			Let's go
		10	20	50
4.3. Rot	Not allowed		Not allowed		Let's go only a dog poisonous rot in view of five-ten and in general area no more than 10% square pi-loma-teri-ala
5. Biological damage 5.1. Worm-hole	Until the neg-lu-sided on the ash-filled parts of the p-loma-teri-ala		Before they teach on any one-met-ro-vos the length of the pipe-loma-teri-ala in pcs., no more:
			2	3	6

Continuation

By the rocks of the trees according to GOST 2140-81	We limit the limits of rocks in pi-loma-teri-alas for varieties
	from boron	1st	2nd	3rd	4th
6. Foreign inclusions, mechanical damage and processing defects 6.1. Foreign inclusions (wires, nails, metal pins, etc.)	Not allowed
6.2. Ob-zol (in cut p-loma-teri-alas)	Os-triy won't let you in				Let's go tu-sing and os-try provided that plastic sheets No less than 1/2 width, and the edges no less, than 3/4 of the length pi-loma-teri-ala
	Tu-sing until-let-ka-et-sya on the plates and edges of the size in the width-of-the-width from-the-front-of-the-sides of the p-lom-teri- ala without a limit on length, no more:
	1/6	1/6	1/6	1/3
	Up to the size of the edges in certain areas in fractions of the width of the edge, no more:
	1/3	1/3	1/3	2/3
	and length in fractions of the length of pi-loma-teri-ala, no more:
	1/6	1/6	1/6	1/4

Notes:

1. The bark on the ashes of ex-sports pi-lo-ma-te-ri-als is not allowed

2. Ob-re-cut pi-lo-ma-te-ri-alas, with-from-vets-tvu-yushchie on all-for-thre-bo-va-ni-yam op-re-de-len-no-go variety, but with ob-zo -scrap, which exceeds the established standard for this variety, before being transferred to the un-used -cut ones with drying grades.

Continuation

By the rocks of the trees according to GOST 2140-81	We limit the limits of rocks in pi-loma-teri-alas for varieties
	from boron	1st	2nd	3rd	4th
6.3. Bevel saw	In pi-loma-teri-alas, one end (in ex-sport pi-loma-teri-alas, both ends) must be sawn perpendicular to the longitudinal axis pi-loma-teri-ala. Deviation from the perpendicularity of the end to the plate and edge up to 5% of the width and thickness of the pi-lom-teri -ala so-from-vets-tven-but.
6.4. Risks, waviness, breakout	Allowed within the limits of deviations from the nominal dimensions established in GOST 24454-80			Allow a depth of no more than 3 mm	Let's go
7. Boxed 7.1. Warpiness, longitudinal along the plane and edge, wingedness	Up to the arrow deflection in fractions of the length of the pi-lom-teri-ala in %, no more:				Let's go
	0,2	0,2	0,2	0,4
Note. In uncut saws, longitudinal warpage along the edge is not normal
7.3. Listed warp	Up to the arrow deflection in percentages of the width of the pi-loma-teri-ala in %, no more:				Let's go
	1	1	1	2

Notes:

1. We have established standards for pi-lo-ma-te-ri-al with a humidity of no more than 22%. With high humidity, these standards are halved.

2. Po-ro-ki trees-ve-si-ny, not mentioned in our current standard, are allowed to do so.

Pay attention to the quality of lumber

Acquired pi-lo-ma-te-ri-ala, with whom you are going to work, must be not only strong, and “healthy” - one but-ro-ny-mi in color, without traces of wood-weight-mi-harm-di-te-la-mi. There is no need to use a tree-vi-si-well, a female mushroom-com, to work. It is easy to determine by the color of the wood and by the splitting of the fiber in the place -zhe-niya. The color of the pi-lo-ma-te-ri-al can vary from cre-mo-vo-go and brown-ro-go to si-ne-va- to-go and ze-le-no-va-to.

Ple-sen-ra-zha-et tree-ve-si-well only sleep-ru-zhi, that's why the tree-ve-si-well can still be saved, if it can -ev-re-men-but clean it from the sp-se-no rub-ban-com and do a good job of drying it. Rot, especially poisonous, grows from the inside, destroys its structure and de-la-des it nep-ri-year-to-use.

When-about-re-taying pi-lo-ma-te-ri-ala es-tes-tven-noy moist-nos-ti, be-you-to-the-facing difficulties: after-le mont-ta-zha ma-te-ri-al began no sub-dry, change shape (to-beat), shrink, crack.

If you want to overcome the number of problems, you must choose one of the following solutions: ny: buy-drink already dried according to GOS-Tu on a special ob-ru-do-va-nii pi-lo-ma-te-ri-al or pro- dry already purchased. You can pro-su-sew pi-lo-ma-te-ri-al in the es-tes-tven-nyh us-lo-vi-yah. For this purpose, pi-lo-ma-te-ri-al uk-la-dy-va-et-sya under the open-covered sides on the through-nya-ke, behind -that-no place. Each layer of pi-lo-ma-te-ri-ala, laid for es-tes-tve-noy drying, prok-la-dy-va-et-sya in-cross- ny-mi uz-ki-mi brus-ka-mi.

In the process of es-tes-tve-noy drying, it is not-about-ho-di-mo to make sure that the pi-lo-ma-te-ri-al does not clog-the forest-not led under the pro-lo-zhen-mi beams. In this form it should dry for about 20-30 days

In order to correctly choose the post-tav-schi-kov ob-rez-nyh pi-lo-ma-te-ri-al carefully study the existing standards and you choose the class that is most suitable for you, as appropriate honestly, and for the price. In some cases, perhaps, you will be able to transfer to another tree of the same type , and not to look for op-re-de-len-nu-ro-du with more high-class ka-ches-tva.

Pop-ro-buy-evaluate how long it will take you to try with the quality of the cutting pi-lo-ma-te-ri-als. Call about different personal posts. Sometimes you have to buy various cons-truction elements from various supply chains. If you're definitely op-re-de-li-those pa-ra-met-ry not-about-ho-di-mo-go to you about-res-no-go pi-lo-ma-te- ri-ala, then you will be able to find something from a personal qua-chest, and at a lower price!