Welcome again to my blog! I’m in touch with you, Timur Mustaev. I receive a lot of letters with the same phrase: “Recommend an inexpensive and good camera,” so I decided to write this article.

It is possible that you are good at taking pictures with a phone or other point-and-shoot camera, have your own blog with your pictures, but at some point you decided to get better at photography in order to get high-quality and clearer pictures. What will you do? Of course, you will want to buy a more sophisticated camera.

Today I will review the camera ranges and tell you which camera is best to buy for a novice photographer! Let's begin!

First, decide how far you want to go as a photographer. Do you just want to do amateur photography or do you want to develop and conduct photo shoots and shoot events? Once you make your final decision, you need to start choosing a camera.

Three types of cameras, their advantages and disadvantages

There are three types of cameras:

• Soap dishes;
• Mirrorless with removable optics;
• Mirrored.

Advantages of soap dishes:

• Light weight and size;
• Automatic shooting only. No photography skills required;
• Low price.

Disadvantages of soap dishes:

• Lack of ability to control frame construction;
• Lack of interchangeable lens;
• No manual mode.

Advantages of DSLR cameras:

• Shooting capability high-quality photo under any conditions;
• Availability of a high-quality matrix;
• Availability of manual settings;
• Replaceable optics.

Flaws:

• Large weight and size - sometimes more than 1 kg;
• Expensive. The price starts from 30 thousand rubles.

The main difference between a mirrorless camera and a DSLR

I want to separately review the main difference between mirrorless cameras and SLR cameras, which is the type of viewfinder. If for SLR cameras it is optical, then for hybrid cameras it is display (electronic).

Let's look at the advantages of each viewfinder. It’s worth noting right away that the disadvantages of these two types of cameras will be mutually inverse.

Advantages of the electronic viewfinder:

1. Low price with good technical parameters;
2. Larger image;
3. A camera with this type has smaller dimensions;
4. The ability to take photographs in any position of the camera: looking in front of you, lowering it below or raising it above your head;
5. The shutter release is less audible because there is no working mirror.

Advantages of an optical viewfinder:

1. Natural colors in the viewfinder;
2. Autofocus is more correct and faster;
3. In difficult conditions, for example, in bright sunshine, the image remains clearly visible and clear;
4. Low heating of the matrix, which allows you to detail the image, taking into account only small digital noise;
5. Turning off the display will help extend battery life.

I note that there are cameras with dual viewfinders. All cameras have an optical viewfinder, but only some models also have a display viewfinder, which helps you shoot in any position.

If you are determined to gradually further develop in photography and take breathtaking photographs, then you are in the mood for purchasing SLR photographic equipment.

Types of SLR photographic equipment

Let's look at three categories of SLR cameras and the main top model ranges. From top to bottom we will look at smaller models and move on to more sophisticated ones. model ranges Nikon and Canon. I would like to note that while writing this article, I met many real reviews from friends about each of these cameras!

Budget amateur camera

• Nikon D3100– an ordinary amateur DSLR for photographing a family. The main disadvantage is that many functions are transferred to the on-screen menu, which makes work difficult.
• Nikon D5100– DSLR with advanced functionality. It is suitable for those who have experience in photography and their own requirements for the functionality of photographic equipment.
• Nikon D7100- more advanced technology. I think that it is the protected body, 2 slots for memory cards and high-speed shooting of 6 frames/sec that make this model and others like it quite cool equipment.
• Canon EOS 1000D– a simple camera with a small screen and a 12 MP matrix.
• Canon EOS 600D. It features a rotating screen and Full HD video recording.
• Canon EOS 650D. Has 9 AF points and 5 fps.

Advanced amateur camera

• Nikon D610– photo detail at ISO up to 3200 units, comfortable body and quiet shooting mode.
• Canon EOS 6D has a built-in Wi-Fi module and enhanced creativity.
• Canon EOS 7D– wide 100% viewfinder coverage, 19 focusing points, maximum speed shutter 1/8000s.

Professional camera

• Nikon D810– for photography, 39 point system autofocus, shooting is clearer and photos can be edited without losing quality.
• Canon EOS 5D mark III– mainly intended for videographers, 61-point autofocus system, good color rendition.

Of course, it's worth remembering that your choice largely depends on your budget. It is worth noting that if you shot on a Canon point-and-shoot camera, then you should give preference to this brand when buying a SLR camera.

The lens plays an important role when choosing!

I want to note main feature! If you opt for the expensive Nikon D810 with a kit lens, then the quality of the photos will not be as excellent as you would like! , you can read the article.

Why should beginners not buy expensive photographic equipment right away?

1. The advantages of the camera, which will be used in everyday photography by only 1%, raise the cost of the camera above 50%;
2. If you have not mastered simple skills and terms in photography, then there is no point in buying expensive equipment so as not to understand it at all;
3. A novice photographer will not be able to tell the difference in images taken with different lenses of the same model;
4. Without shooting about 20 thousand frames, you will not have any shooting requirements, and why pay more?
5. Having bought expensive photographic equipment, you need to remember that all the auxiliary accessories will cost a lot of money;
6. Remember! The main thing is not the photographic equipment, but the photographer and his ideas!

Which is better: Canon or Nikon?

Canon and Nikon are top manufacturers of photographic equipment and have been competing for the title of best brand for several years now. It is impossible to compare the advantages and disadvantages of each company objectively, since both manufacturers have their pros and cons in one area or another. Still, I want to conduct a review and find out the disadvantages and advantages of both brands of cameras. So, Nikon or Canon?

Canon Features:

• With the same quality of accessories, Canon's photographic equipment remains 10% cheaper than its competitor's;
• Shooting video – Canon still has the advantage;

Nikon Features:

• Ability to shoot in low light and get excellent images with little loss of quality;
• Autofocus! Nikon focuses faster and better and has a superior number of focus points compared to its competitor. For Canon, this point can become a real problem and even a forced transition to manual shooting.

I wrote in more detail in one of my articles, you can read it.

Author's opinion

In my practice, I have taken photographs with both Nikon and Canon DSLRs. And I’ll tell you one thing, any DSLR, of one brand or another, behaves with dignity in the right hands, and that’s a fact!

Advice. Start with a budget amateur camera, let it be, for example, Nikon D3100 or the more advanced Nikon D7100, but do not go further, even if your budget allows it. Take it together with, it’s always more profitable!

And finally, my dear readers, as I advise my best friends, be sure to check out the video course “” (who has NIKON) or “ My first MIRROR"(who has CANON). These are excellent courses that will help in your endeavors and set you on the right path as a photographer. They will open your eyes to the many secrets that a SLR camera holds. These are the courses that are recommended professional photographers, as an initial development.

My first MIRROR- for lovers SLR camera CANON.

Digital SLR for a beginner 2.0- for lovers of NIKON SLR cameras.

With this I say goodbye to you and want to wish you good choice an affordable camera with brilliant features that will bring all your ideas to life with ease.

All the best to you, Timur Mustaev.

Publication date: 14.02.2017

How to choose a camera?

It is very difficult to understand all the abundance of photographic equipment on the market. Prices vary widely, and the range of features varies greatly. Which camera should I buy? The purpose of this article is to help you choose a camera based on your goals and budget.

Types of cameras

Camera in a smartphone

The main trend of the photographic equipment market is inexorable: smartphones are improving and doing better at tasks that previously required a camera. A smartphone today is not only a means of communication and a camera, but also an audio, video player, navigator, game console and even a bank card with a travel card. And if you can forget your camera at home, then your smartphone and its camera are always with you. Another bonus: a photo taken on a smartphone can be immediately sent to friends or published on a social network.

Smartphones are available to almost everyone. If you do not take into account the top models from leading manufacturers, the average price tag is very affordable. Thanks to the emergence of high-quality Chinese smartphones, anyone can become the owner of an advanced device. But prices for photographic equipment have soared following the dollar exchange rate: these days, a serious camera is an expensive pleasure.

However, smartphone cameras still have a number of disadvantages:

Low quality of photos and videos. Smartphones have small image sensors, and their size affects the quality of the picture. Such sensors create more digital noise, which is especially critical when shooting in low light. The appearance of RAW shooting and manual settings in some phones is a nice innovation, but it hasn’t made a difference.

EVA-L19 SETTINGS: ISO 320, F2.2, 2s, 27.0mm eq.

Lack of optical zoom (except for a few specific models). It is impossible to take a high-quality picture of a distant object with a smartphone.

Absence interchangeable optics, which would solve the problem of lack of zoom. Modern “lenses for smartphones” are attachments to existing optics on the phone and cannot be compared with high-quality interchangeable photo optics.

Let's summarize. The smartphone camera is suitable for solving everyday photographic problems and capturing the moment. However, for more or less advanced work with photos and videos, it is better to choose a camera. Even to maintain an Instagram account, bloggers often use not smartphones, but more specialized equipment: from action cameras to full-frame SLR cameras. More advanced tools are also used for professional photography and video shooting.

A smartphone should be considered as a camera if...

• you don’t plan to master photographic equipment and manual settings, but just want to take nice shots and selfies;
• you are a beginner blogger and are looking for budget equipment;
• you need a universal gadget for all tasks: from communicating online to shooting simple videos;
• Are you a photographer who is tired of carrying around a heavy camera (yes, a smartphone is perfect for many areas of creative photography).

Here are the three most relevant devices today:

Samsung Galaxy S7 edge

He has one of best cameras on the mobile market: it is capable of delivering impressive results even at night. With the S7 edge you can take great selfies underwater! And the presence of a manual mode and the ability to shoot in RAW will be useful for advanced amateurs. You can save a little and buy a regular S7. It has a smaller display diagonal and, as a result, slightly smaller sizes and battery capacity. The screen is not curved, but the camera is like the S7 edge.

Huawei P9 and P9 Plus

The camera of this gadget was made together with professionals from Leica. This is the most affordable Leica camera on the market. There is a convenient photo application with a large number of modes, manual settings and shooting in RAW. One of the main features is a dual camera with two sensors: RGB and monochrome, each with a resolution of 12 megapixels. You can take both color and black and white photographs.

iPhone 7 Plus

iPhone is one of the most powerful engines of mobile photography. Over the 10 years of the smartphone’s existence, this area has made great progress: proof of this is the “Shot on iPhone” advertising campaign. The iPhone 7 Plus with 28 and 56 mm (equivalent) lenses has one of the best mobile cameras of our time, the capabilities of which are expanded by third-party applications (up to manual settings and shooting in RAW).

Compact cameras

Superzooms may be of interest to those who care high multiplicity zuma, simple solutions“all in one” and affordable price. Any system (DSLR or mirrorless) camera with a telephoto lens will produce noticeable top scores both in image quality and speed, but it will cost a little more and will require the purchase of additional optics.

Canon PowerShot SX540 HS / (65535) SETTINGS: ISO 1600, F4.5, 1/40 sec

Advanced compact cameras

To survive the onslaught of smartphones, compact cameras have had to evolve not only towards larger zooms, but also towards improved image quality. Today's class of advanced compacts are not single-button point-and-shoot cameras, but serious cameras housed in a compact body and capable of competing with DSLRs and mirrorless cameras.

They are equipped with large matrices (from one-inch to full-frame), high-quality fast primes or optics with moderate zoom. Such cameras are fast and easy to use, allowing you to customize all shooting parameters. Many advanced compacts are good at recording video: you can shoot in 4K resolution and use professional video recording functions.

Almost all modern advanced compacts have a convenient flip-up display. In some models, it can be rotated towards the lens, which makes such cameras a good solution for taking selfies and recording video blogs. Another advantage is the thoughtful design.

Reference representatives of this class: the Sony RX-100 line, which recently added a new product (DSC-RX100M5), Canon PowerShot G7 X Mark II, Canon PowerShot G9 X, Panasonic Lumix DMC-LX10 and others.

DSC-RX100M4 SETTINGS: ISO 125, F7.1, 30 sec, 24.0 mm eq.

Such cameras are convenient for traveling and do an excellent job as a second camera for a professional. If you are a beginner, but you have enough money for a camera in this segment, do not skimp: the quality of photos and videos will not disappoint you.

DSC-RX100M4 SETTINGS: ISO 2000, F3.5, 1/80 sec., 70.0 mm eq.

Advanced compact cameras with large zoom

Advanced compact cameras equipped with large 1″ diagonal matrices and powerful zoom should be placed in a separate class. So-called bridge cameras have inherited many of the features of superzooms, but have a number of features. They have more advanced controls that allow you to quickly change settings and shoot in manual mode, a lens with a high zoom ratio. The range of focal lengths is not as large as that of superzooms (usually from 8x to 20x), but there are also record holders with 30- or 40x zoom. Examples of models: , Canon PowerShot G3 X .

DSC-RX10M3 SETTINGS: ISO 125, F5.6, 1/250 sec., 380.0 mm eq.

This class of cameras will be of interest to those who want to switch from a simple superzoom to something more advanced, but either cannot yet afford a system camera or do not want to deal with bulky interchangeable lenses.

Canon PowerShot G3 X / (65535) SETTINGS: ISO 4000, F5.6, 1/125 sec

With such cameras it is comfortable to travel and shoot family and everyday scenes. The picture quality is much higher than that of superzooms. But we must keep in mind that in size they can be comparable to system (DSLR or mirrorless) cameras and are somewhat inferior to them in image quality due to the smaller matrix size.

SLR Cameras

DSLR - perfect solution for the amateur photographer who plans to improve his skills, learn, and use all creative and technical shooting techniques. DSLRs are equipped with large matrices (full-frame or APS-C standard), thanks to which you can get very high quality Images. They are very flexible in operation and suitable for all types of shooting. You just need to choose the right lens.

Why is a SLR camera called that? Its design is based on a movable mirror, which is necessary for viewing the frame through the optical viewfinder.

DSLRs designed for beginners can be purchased with a lens included. Such trade offers are marked kit. The “whale” lens is ideal for beginning photographers. Professionals choose optics to suit their tasks, ordering a camera without a lens in the body package.

X-T2 / XF10-24mmF4 R OIS SETTINGS: ISO 200, F11, 1/8 sec, 15.0 mm eq.

Entry-level DSLR cameras are relatively inexpensive. They can last longer on a single battery charge than compacts and mirrorless cameras. This is very important when traveling and on important shoots.

PENTAX K-1 / HD PENTAX-D FA 24-70mm F2.8ED SDM WR SETTINGS: ISO 100, F8, 20 sec, 24.0 mm equiv.

All modern models have rich video recording capabilities. If entry-level devices are simply good family video cameras, then some advanced models are quite suitable for professional work with video.

ILCA-99M2 / 135mm F1.8 ZA SETTINGS: ISO 1600, F2.8, 1/100 s, 135.0 mm eq.

However, cameras in this class are large. This is due to their design with a mirror inside, interchangeable lenses and a large matrix. The size of a DSLR camera will depend on the size of the optics installed on it.

Canon EOS 5D Mark IV / Canon EF 24-70mm f/2.8L II USM SETTINGS: ISO 100, F4, 1/60 sec

A SLR camera is the whole system devices and accessories. Buying a camera may come with costs for lenses, flashes and other accessories that will be necessary if you take up photography seriously.

In our high-tech age, it is not at all easy to purchase any household appliance or smart gadget. The problem lies precisely in huge assortment and an abundance of additional functions and capabilities. To the question: “Which is the best camera to buy?” Even a professional cannot answer quickly and unambiguously. A detailed study of the market, as well as the needs and capabilities of the buyer, will help you make the right choice. There are too many questions: the size of the device, its functionality, compatibility with additional accessories and price.

Why do you need a camera?

You should start choosing any piece of equipment by determining your own requirements for it. It is important to rationally assess existing skills and potential, as well as the ability to develop. Think about where the desire to buy a camera came from? The old one broke down, did you suddenly realize that your existing point-and-shoot camera is not suitable for implementing your existing ideas, or is it simply fashionable to have a SLR camera?

Another important question- purchase amount. If your budget is limited and you want to save money, you should choose especially pickily. Before you think about which camera is best to buy, decide what exactly you will be shooting. If you need the device for domestic needs (filming home holidays, interesting events) - a simple model will be sufficient. For those who wish to learn the art of photography, a mid-level camera with some potential is needed. Professional equipment is intended for experienced photographers.

What types of cameras are there?

Today, any photographic equipment store will offer its client compact digital cameras, devices with interchangeable optics, as well as mirror technology. Each category offers a huge number of models in different price ranges. They may vary in size, functionality and design. Let's look at the elements present in the design of any modern camera.

The body of the product has a front and a back part. The display is located on the back side; it can be folding and rotating or built into the back panel of the device. The front of the camera has a lens, which can be built-in or replaceable. When asking, many consumers expect to hear at least a recommendation for a specific category of devices. Everything is purely individual, depending on what is more important to you: to carry a camera in your pocket or to enjoy greater functionality and the ability to take high-quality pictures?

Compact digital cameras

Often devices in this category are popularly called “soap boxes”. This definition is not entirely correct and is appropriate only for one of the subspecies. Characteristics digital compact cameras - display viewfinder and built-in lens. Another one distinguishing feature- minimum settings, most often pictures best quality obtained when selecting automatic mode.

Cheap models may not have advanced settings at all. It is appropriate to call digital cameras with a telescopic lens “soap cameras.” When the device is turned off, it folds and retracts into the housing. According to one version, this is where the name comes from - when folded, the camera really resembles a bar of soap or a soap dish. If you don't know which digital camera better buy, think again about the importance of its size. The “soap dish” will easily fit into a pocket or handbag. Regular digital cameras have lenses protruding above the surface of the body. Such modifications, as a rule, have more advanced settings. Among them there are also expensive options that can be used for professional photography.

Digital cameras with interchangeable lenses

Digital cameras with interchangeable lenses allow you to take high-quality photographs, but do not have a mirror viewfinder. An undeniable advantage is the ability to use several lenses on one “body” or replace them as the user’s needs increase. If you are seriously interested in photography, but don’t know which digital camera is best to buy - optimal solution cameras of this type will become. There is potential for development and improvement of the device with minimal investment. However, this group differs in the priority of manual settings and the digital viewfinder.

SLR Cameras

The fashion for SLR cameras began several years ago. The official marking of devices in this category is DSLR, which stands for “Digital single-lens reflex camera”.

The fundamental difference from digital analogs with interchangeable lenses is the presence of a mirror viewfinder, which usually increases the size of the device. An important technical characteristic for such cameras is the size of the matrix. Once you decide which DSLR camera is best to buy, carefully study its packaging. The camera itself is called body (slang - “body”, “carcass”), and the set of lens and camera is called kit. Usually a basic set is enough to get acquainted with the camera. After shooting with it for a while, you can learn a lot and understand what additions the chosen device needs.

What determines the quality of images?

The natural desire for maximalism must be left aside when it comes to choosing the optical zoom value. The lower this indicator, the higher the quality of the pictures. What is the best camera to buy to take high-quality pictures? The answer is simple - the one with the smaller aperture value for the lens. This indicator sets the following axiom: the larger the focal length, the lower the aperture ratio. When taking a photo, you want the camera to capture the moment instantly. The shutter speed parameter is responsible for this feature. Photographers who are also interested in image processing will find it useful to purchase a model that can record footage in raw format. This saving option does not require compression, as a result of which the image has a larger size and quality, respectively.

Details about the camera matrix

One of the most unpleasant defects that can be found in photographs taken is noise. We are talking about “snow” - small dots similar to grains. The secret to high-quality photographs of moving objects in poor light is the high sensitivity of the matrix. It is important that there is no noise. How to determine this combination by markings and which SLR camera is better to buy? You can count on the absence of “snow” at values ​​of 800 ISO and above. With inexpensive matrices, the appearance of noise should be expected already at 400 ISO. The resolution of the captured frames is important if you plan to print them larger than 10x15 cm or view them on a large screen. You can take photographs suitable for these purposes from a large matrix. The most common marking is a fraction; better quality photographs can be expected if the value is close to one.

Significant Characteristics

How frustrating it can be to catch an interesting shot and shoot it blurry! You can forget about this trouble by choosing a camera with image stabilization. It can be built into the body or lens, however, the result is noticeable in both cases. Focal length is a lens characteristic that reflects the size of the subject and the camera's field of view. Another answer to the question: “Which is the best semi-professional camera to buy?” - one that allows large quantity configure parameters manually. This will allow the beginner amateur to learn new things and master various shooting techniques.

Which company is better to buy a camera?

Does it make sense to overpay for a brand? This is a controversial issue, and yet there are recognized leaders among photographic equipment manufacturers. The most famous companies: Canon, Nikon and Olympus. These are companies for which the production of photographic equipment is their main profile, and there is no doubt about the quality of their products. The next level is occupied by brands that produce a variety of household appliances and electronics.

Little-known manufacturers close the list, so which camera is best for an amateur to buy in this case is not of fundamental importance. Explore specifications and user recommendations. But there is a fierce war going on among professionals, under the motto: which is better - Nikon or Canon? Still, the choice of brand is important, since any camera is compatible only with accessories from the same company. Experience shows that lenses last quite a long time if handled with care. Accordingly, having chosen a brand once, you will be forced to become a fan of it for a long time, since it is unprofitable to buy a new “carcass” and a set of lenses for it, if you have a sufficient number of accessories from a different brand.

Ease of use

You can take photographs quickly and without unnecessary delays if you have automatic settings and autofocus. Most digital cameras have these capabilities, but SLR cameras rarely do. The ability to shoot in bursts is incredibly convenient and useful. The option is called bracketing and allows you to take several frames instead of one. Theoretically, the same effect can be achieved manually, but with automatic installation it turns out faster. An electronic viewfinder is useful; it will replace the optical viewfinder in bright light. The only downside is that it displays the image for one eye. Most likely, by this time you have already decided on the choice of brand. If the question is what Nikon camera better to buy, evaluate the totality of all the characteristics proposed above and highlight the most important of them.

Camera for beginner or pro

For the convenience of consumers, each brand divides its products into unofficial categories: for professionals and amateurs. There is also an intermediate class: medium-priced equipment intended for those who do not have special skills, but want to learn artistic photography. If you are not sure that you will devote a lot of time to this activity, you should start with a simple camera. In addition to it, you can purchase a tripod and start studying graphic editors. Popular Photoshop program allows you to create real masterpieces even from photos of average original quality. Mastering its basics will be useful for every photography enthusiast: in just a couple of lessons you can learn how to improve the colors of images, crop them and remove red eyes.

Necessary accessories

The most important accessory for DSLR cameras is the lens. Please note that without it the “carcass” will not be removed. Therefore, distribute your budget correctly, choosing an inexpensive or mid-priced camera and a good addition to it. Important nuance- all photographic equipment is compatible strictly by brand. In other words, if you are choosing which camera is better: buy Canon or Nikon, be prepared for the fact that the lenses and body must be of the same brand. You will immediately have to purchase a memory card; keep in mind that when traveling or going to some exciting events, it is recommended to take several digital media at once. A useful purchase is a bag or case to protect your equipment. Other accessories such as a tripod and flash are purchased after a detailed acquaintance with the camera, if necessary. Some manufacturers offer beginner kits consisting of the camera itself, lens, bag, and sometimes other accessories.

Do you need a camera? Which one is better to buy? Reviews from photographic equipment owners are unlikely to help you. The thing is that the choice of cameras today is huge, while there are not so many people who have tried at least five different modifications. It makes sense to consult with a professional photographer who has been working in this field for quite a long time. But keep in mind that a professional of this level may not be very familiar with the technology for beginners and amateurs. It is for this reason that it makes sense to independently understand the characteristics and important parameters of modern cameras, having first decided what you expect from your planned purchase. We hope that our article will help you answer the question: “Which professional camera is best to buy?” or “Which photographic equipment should a beginner choose?”

Happy photography!

Number of points on the matrix

The main characteristic is usually considered the number of pixels on the matrix; The maximum resolution of the images, and therefore the quality, depends on it.

Theoretically, the more megapixels, the better. However, manufacturers know that buyers primarily look at this parameter, and therefore cheap models are often equipped with matrices with an exorbitant number of megapixels.
Example: the matrix of a professional Canon EOS 5D for 100 thousand rubles is 23 megapixels, and the matrix of a cheap Recam for 3,000 rubles is 21 megapixels. But this does not mean that professional Canon and Recam cameras shoot equally well.

The physical size of the matrix (measured in millimeters) and the hardware and software of the camera are important. In the same Canon, the matrix size is large enough to eliminate digital noise, and the optics provide good focusing. And vice versa, in Recam the small matrix is ​​very noisy, and poor optics do not provide a clear picture.

APS, Four Thirds, Full Frame matrices

• APS are matrices whose width to length ratio is 3:2.
• Four Thirds – matrices with a length to width ratio of 4:3.
• Full Frame - “full-size” matrix, like that of film cameras - 36 x 24 mm.

Crop factor

This is the ratio of the size of the matrix to the size of the frame on film. Standard photographic film had a frame of 36 x 24 mm, and all optics were designed for this size. Today, matrices are usually made smaller; the ratio of the “classic” 36 x 24 frame to the size of a digital matrix is ​​called the “crop factor”. The smaller it is, the greater the chance that it will be a high-quality matrix.

How many megapiskels do you need? It depends on the tasks you set for yourself.
If you want to view photos on a monitor screen, then for HD quality you need 1920x1080 pixels, or only 2 megapixels.
To print with a quality of 300 dots per inch (300 dpi - standard quality) on a sheet of 13x18 centimeters, you need 1600x2200 dots - 3.5 Megapixels, on a sheet of format 20x30 centimeters - you need 2400x3550 dots - 8.5 Megapixels.
As you can see, the needs are very modest.
Tens of megapixels are needed only to later enlarge a fragment of the image, or to compensate for the shortcomings of the matrix - take a large image of “mediocre” quality and reduce it to decent (see “”).

Conclusion: neither the physical size of the matrix nor the number of megapixels is directly related to the quality of the image. The only objective way to evaluate the quality is to take test pictures (see “”).

Zoom

A convenient feature that almost all digital cameras are equipped with (except for special optics for SLR cameras) is the ability to “zoom” - change the focal length.

The statement that “the larger the zoom, the better” is erroneous. Zoom is a value that shows the ratio of the maximum and minimum focal length. How much “goes into the frame” depends on the focal length. For example, if you buy a camera to photograph parties with friends, and the minimum focal length is too long, your friends simply will not fit into the frame. Likewise, the entire lens will not fit into the frame of a camera with a long focal length. large building on the street (see "")

Zoom comes in optical and digital versions.
Optical Zoom is an increase using optics (i.e. changing the focal length of the lens). This increase is the highest quality.
Digital Zoom is the stretching of a ready-made image using software; with such stretching, the quality becomes worse (try stretching a small picture to fill the entire screen - and you will see how noticeable the deterioration is). I advise you not to use digital zoom at all when shooting - because... digital enlargement can be done later, in calm atmosphere on the computer.

Conclusion: when choosing a Zoom, we pay attention only to the optical one, and be sure to look at the focal length.

Focal length

This is a characteristic on which the viewing angle depends. Remember how many times, when trying to photograph a group of friends, you had to ask them to “stand closer together” or to “move further away” so that everyone would be included in the frame? This means your camera's focal length was too long.
The smaller the minimum focal length, the more “will fit into the frame.”
And vice versa, the longer the maximum focal length, the larger you can shoot distant objects.

The focal length depends not only on the lens parameters, but also on the size of the matrix. Since all matrices in digital cameras are different, they use the concept of “focal length equivalent to film” - i.e. recalculated for the frame size familiar to photographers (on film) 36x24 mm.

Please note that even for interchangeable lenses, many manufacturers proudly indicate the focal length not “equivalent to film,” but specifically for a given lens. For example, Sony proudly writes that its “whale” lens has a focal length of only 18 mm. However, when converted to “film equivalent” the figure turns out to be not 18, but... 28 mm, i.e. Not much goes into the frame. Don't forget about this advertising ploy!
The “equivalent” focal length can also be calculated by knowing the crop factor of the lens: you need to multiply the focal length values ​​by the crop factor.

“Average” values ​​are considered to be 30-90 mm in “film equivalent” (3x zoom). However, it is better to have a minimum focal length of no more than 24 mm, and a maximum focal length of 85 mm.

Conclusion: buy a lens with a focal length of 24 (or less) by 85 (or more) mm.

SLR camera

In the days of film cameras, only “DSLR” cameras could guarantee clear photographs to the photographer. After all, if on conventional cameras the distance to what was being photographed had to be determined manually, then on mirror cameras you could “focus” by looking at the object through the lens. In the viewfinder, the photographer immediately saw how sharp his photo would be: what would be “in focus” and what would be “blurry.”

Digital SLR cameras have the same advantage: you see the future photo not on the LCD screen, but with your own eye. And the “resolution” of the eye is much higher than that of any matrix :-)
However, if you shoot focusing only on the LCD screen, if you are not used to manually focusing, you will not benefit from this advantage.

The second advantage of digital SLR cameras is that they provide the ability to use interchangeable lenses. After all, no matter how perfect the matrix is, without high-quality lens optics it is impossible to take a high-quality photo.
And high-quality optics are very expensive, sometimes several times more expensive than the camera itself. However, if you never intend to use interchangeable lenses, you won’t be able to take advantage of this advantage either.

One of the common misconceptions is that a “DSLR” camera is better than a “regular” one.

A DSLR camera is better only if you use high-quality lenses, which, I repeat, often cost more than the camera itself. If you are not ready to spend money on expensive lenses, it is better to buy “regular” cameras: they show better results than “DSLR” cameras with “whale” (see below) optics. It is better to take a high-quality “semi-professional” camera than a “professional” one without high-quality optics.

Conclusion: if you have a limited budget (and if you don’t use manual settings), we buy a regular camera. If you have an unlimited budget (and a desire to adjust as many parameters as possible), we buy a separate SLR camera and separate lenses for it.

Body or Kit (for DSLR cameras)

High-quality optics often cost more than the camera itself. And development electronic technologies does not affect the optics in any way. Therefore, many professionals, when changing a camera, leave the same lenses (and manufacturers make sure that their old optics fit the new models).
In addition, all professionals have different tasks, which means they need different lenses (short-focus, long-focus, portrait, etc.) - so the manufacturer suggests buying a camera separately and a lens separately. This delivery is called “Body”.

“Body” - this means you are buying only the device, without a lens (the lens is for an additional fee).

Since most people who buy DSLR cameras are not professionals and have little idea what lenses they need, manufacturers also sell a “camera + lens” set. This kit includes a “universal” lens – the one that is most suitable for beginners. Due to mass production, such lenses are relatively cheap.
Sometimes the kit includes 2 lenses - short-focus and long-focus (in simpler terms - for shooting at close and long distances).

“Kit” is a SLR camera with a lens (an “entry” level lens, but this level is enough for most amateurs).

Conclusion: If you intend to buy interchangeable lenses from the very beginning, choose a lens and buy “Body”. If you don’t intend to spend money on lenses, buy a “kit” - buying such a set costs less than buying everything separately.

Live View (in DSLR cameras)

The optical system of SLR cameras is designed in such a way that the image appears on the matrix only at the moment of shooting - when the shutter button is pressed, the rest of the time the image passes through the lens into the optical viewfinder.
As a result, only photographs that have already been taken are visible on the LCD screen, and the photographer adjusts the sharpness, shutter speed and aperture only based on his own experience (or taking test shots).

However, with the growing popularity of SLR cameras, manufacturers realized that beginners were increasingly buying them, so the “Live View” mode was invented especially for them, when the camera can switch from “DSLR” mode to “normal” mode. Accordingly, you see the image you are shooting either in the viewfinder - where you can accurately focus, or on the LCD screen - where you can accurately select the shutter speed and aperture values.

“Live View” is convenient because you can evaluate the correctness of the settings (shutter speed, aperture, white balance) even before you take the photo.

Conclusion: it is better to buy a DSLR camera with “Live View” mode.

Now let's look at something that usually eludes the inexperienced amateur photographer...

Noises

One of the most important parameters, which, unfortunately, is never indicated in the characteristics - is the amount of digital noise in the image.
You've probably noticed that in some digital photographs, sometimes instead of a uniform tone, some colored stripes are visible - scientifically, these chaotic distortions are called “digital noise.”

Theoretically, the larger the matrix (we mean the physical dimensions, not its resolution) or the lower the power consumption, the lower the noise. But the occurrence of noise is also influenced by thermal processes in the device and, naturally, quality - i.e. technology. In short, there is no direct relationship between the size of the matrix and the presence of digital noise.

The only way to really evaluate noise is to take a few test shots and then test their quality in quiet conditions. (Some stores allow you to take test photos. You only need to have a memory card suitable for this device.)
By the way, all professional cameras are also distinguished by the fact that they have a good noise reduction system - this is necessarily indicated in their characteristics.

Tip: The amount of noise increases as the sensitivity (ISO value) increases. Do you want to receive nice pictures– shoot at minimum ISO.

By the way, the minimum ISO value allows you to immediately understand what class the camera belongs to. If the minimum specifications indicate ISO = 50, this is a sure sign that the matrix is ​​not the best.

Conclusion: we don’t chase the maximum number of megapixels, but check the quality of the pictures.

ISO

ISO is a unit of film sensitivity (like our GOST), if you remember - previously film was sold with 32, 64, 125, 250 GOST units, then it was replaced by imported film with 100, 200, 400 ISO... The higher the sensitivity, the The lower the illumination you can shoot, or the lower the shutter speed you can set.

I’ll explain with an example: if at sensitivity 100 ISO shutter speed should be 1/10 of a second - and you need a tripod, then at 400 ISO (100*4) - 1/40 (1/10/4) second is enough, and you can already shoot “handheld”.

However, nothing comes “for free”: for film, the higher the sensitivity, the larger the grain, i.e. at high magnification it was impossible to convey small parts. There are other restrictions that you can read about in specialized literature. In short, professional photographers preferred not to strive for high sensitivity, but to choose film that suited the shooting conditions.

In modern digital cameras, increasing sensitivity (increasing ISO) comes at the cost of increasing digital noise. As with film, the lower the ISO, the better the quality of the photos you get.

The advertised ISO 3200, ISO 6400, of course, allow you to shoot in very low light, but the digital noise in the images is so great that it is almost impossible to use such images.
On cheap devices, noise already affects ISO 400.

Therefore, manufacturers, knowing about the low quality of their matrices, reduce the minimum ISO. This, by the way, is a sign of a cheap matrix: such cameras have a minimum ISO of 40-60 units.

Conclusion: we pay attention only to the minimum ISO - it is better if it is not lower than 100.

Optics

Optics are the most important part of any camera. Bad optics can be immediately recognized by the presence of a halo in photographs at the boundaries of objects with different illumination (the contours are not clear, but are surrounded by purple and yellow stripes along the edges). Scientifically, such distortions are called aberration.

The quality of the optics can only be checked by taking test shots. Moreover, for test shots it is better to choose objects that are “inconvenient for the camera”: a dark object on a light background, or at least the roof of a house in the background bright sky. Distortions occur at the boundaries of the difference in illumination, so for a test shot the difference in illumination of objects in the frame should be as large as possible.

Conclusion: we take test pictures with sharp changes in illumination, and look at the resulting pictures on a computer screen, or on a camera screen with maximum magnification.

Other important parameters that are worth paying attention to:

Manual white balance

A must have for me a good camera, is manual balance white.
What it is? This is an opportunity to tell the automation what should be considered white.

Let's do an experiment: take White list and look at it in a room lit by incandescent lamps - it will appear yellowish to you when illuminated fluorescent lamps- violet, at dusk - grayish. But gradually we get used to the current lighting, and the leaf again begins to appear completely white to us: our eye adapts to changes in color tones. But if you don’t do color correction when taking photographs, then the pictures will be yellowish, bluish or grayish (and no computer color correction can correct this).

Manual white balance avoids this. You simply point the device at what you think should be white, and the device itself adjusts the color correction.

Cheap models only have preset modes: “street”, “home”, “evening”, “poor lighting”. But in real life this may not be enough.

Conclusion: it is better to buy a device with the function manual settings white balance (beginners may neglect this advice).

Shooting speed and autofocus accuracy

It is worth paying attention to the shooting speed and the correct operation of autofocus. Many people are accustomed to the fact that on conventional cameras, as soon as you press the shutter button, shooting immediately occurs. On digital cameras, the autofocus process is much slower, sometimes you have to wait a second or even longer for the device to adjust. This is not scary if you are shooting a static landscape, but when you need to shoot a moving object, in a second it will have time to leave the frame, or, for example, the person being photographed sitting at the table will have time to turn his head and the picture will be hopelessly ruined.
Again, if on a sunny day there are no problems when shooting outdoors, then at home (to put it more simply - in poor lighting) autofocus can lie, and then instead of a clear picture you get something blurry.

By the way, a low-light warning function would be useful.

What it is? In bright light, the shutter time is less than 1/100 of a second, so it doesn't matter whether you're holding the camera firmly or moving it. But at shutter speeds of less than 1/30 of a second, it is necessary to keep the camera absolutely still (as much as possible) - so it would be nice to have a function to remind you of this.

I won’t talk about how to use autofocus correctly here, although many people forget about it, resulting in blurry pictures.

In a word, we pay attention to the speed of focusing and operation.

Continuous shooting

The number of frames in a series and the number of frames per second - what is it?

In some cases, it can be difficult to pull the trigger at “that very moment”: for example, the finish of a sprint race, or jumping into a swimming pool. For such cases, “burst shooting” is used - i.e. When you press the shutter button, the camera takes several pictures at certain intervals, from which you can then select “the one.”

Another purpose of burst shooting is to take identical shots in different light settings. For example, a series of 5 frames: the first is made much darker than you set, the second is a little darker, the third is made according to your settings, the fourth is a little lighter, the fifth is much lighter. This allows you to avoid mistakes when setting exposure: one out of five frames will probably turn out well.
This differs from regular shooting in that the camera does not “waste time” on new installation shooting parameters, but shoots with those set at the start of shooting (or only adjusts individual characteristics). This function has a number of natural limitations: maximum amount frames per second (which the camera mechanism is capable of making), and the maximum number of frames in a series (limited by the device’s memory buffer).

Frames per second– this is the maximum amount that the device can remove in a second.

Number of frames in a series– this is the maximum number of frames within one series (in modern devices it is often limited only by the size of the flash card).

Matrix backlight

Of course, there is no “matrix backlighting” in this technology - on a matrix with reverse side no one shines, although some layers do change places.

To understand how this works, imagine the matrix as a layer cake. The first layer is the base (a durable substrate) on which everything else will be attached. The second layer is LEDs. Third layer - electrical wiring(electrical leads from LEDs). The fourth layer is light filters. Fifth - lenses (microlenses - for each pixel on the matrix).

No matter how thin the electrical wiring (third layer) is, it still reduces the maximum possible surface of the LED. Therefore, they use the “reverse order” of layers - first, all the electrical wiring is mounted on the substrate, and then the LEDs are mounted on it. As a result, now nothing prevents the use of the entire matrix area for LEDs, which means (with the same dimensions) the sensitivity increases.

It is clear that such technology is much more complex and therefore more expensive. A few years ago it was used only for astronomical instruments. But over time, the increase in production costs has become less significant, and today a matrix with “back illumination” is used in “household” cameras.

Night photography without a tripod

The essence of the technology is that instead of conducting long-term shooting, it is divided into time intervals.

Imagine holding the lens open for 4 seconds, turning it 1 degree every second. As a result, you will get a picture where the camera has been rotated by 4 degrees - i.e. rather blurry image. Now imagine that instead of 1 picture in 4 seconds, you took 4 pictures of 1 second each - then each turn will be only 1 degree, i.e. “blurriness” will be 4 times less.

This is the principle on which your device works - it takes several pictures, on each of which the device “does not have time” to shift and “blur” the image, and then connects all the pictures together - summing them up.

The use of such technology also makes it possible to combat noise. After all, “noise” is random colored dots that appear randomly in the image. Accordingly, if such a point is in one image, but absent in the rest, it means “noise”, and it can be accurately cut off.

Conclusion: “night photography without a tripod” - useful feature, when used skillfully.

Test shots

Test shots will best show you whether the selected camera is worth buying.

It is better to take test shots on your own flash card (by agreeing with the seller in advance). The pictures should have “difficult” conditions - changes in illumination in one frame, sharp boundaries of black and white (you can at least remove the inscriptions on the price tag), small objects (for example, remove a banknote, or price tags in the distance).

It is better to view the photographs taken at home, not on a computer, at high magnification. If this is not possible, select the viewing mode right in the store and select the maximum magnification. You should be wary of colored stripes on the border of black and white, unreadable inscriptions on price tags, and colored ripples when shooting monochromatic objects.

When doing test shooting, do not forget to set the white balance correctly: in the store this should be the mode for fluorescent lamps.

Battery life

Manufacturers often indicate the time in the number of photos. This is a rather crafty value, which can mean anything.
Most likely, this refers to the number of pictures that can be taken without stopping under normal conditions, without turning on and off, with the display turned off. Don't fall for this trick!

In compact models, when turned on, energy is spent on “pushing out” the lens, and when turned off, energy is spent on “pushing” the lens back into the body of the device. Energy is wasted running the display. You'll likely want to select the most appropriate angle, which will significantly increase the average time spent per photo.

The processor also consumes a lot of energy when processing a photo - therefore, for example, when shooting at night, one photo takes much more energy than during the day.

Please note that quite a lot of energy is spent running the LCD display. And in the battery performance characteristics, manufacturers often indicate operating time with the screen turned off for advertising purposes.

Conclusion: pay attention to the battery life with the LCD screen turned on.

Flash card

Flash cards different formats Today, the only difference is the data transfer speed. For an amateur who does not make large series (when several frames are taken per second), speed is not important.

Only the cost of flash cards of different formats differs. Choose the one that suits you in terms of volume and cost.

Please note that the flash drive (USB drive) that we use to exchange files and the flash card for the camera are completely different things!

Conclusion: we are interested in the cost of replacement flash cards.

Data interface

Today, cameras are usually connected to a computer via a USB cable, and are seen as an external HDD. However, it may be possible to connect an audio-video cable to connect, for example, to older TV models for viewing.

To re-record to a computer you only need USB interface(USB-2, USB-3 - the higher the number, the higher the speed).

The Wi-Fi interface allows you to connect to the camera remotely, without a cable. This is convenient if you need to output the image directly to a printer with a Wi-Fi interface.

Wi-Fi is convenient if you need to immediately transfer a photo taken by a photographer to the Internet. The photographer is not distracted by rewriting photos, but continues to shoot, and his partner with a laptop himself looks for the necessary pictures directly on the camera and can continue publishing them without waiting for the end of the event.

Wi-Fi is convenient if there is a danger that your flash card will be confiscated. You can configure the transfer of pictures, for example, to your partner’s smartphone. Then the photographer films the event, and all the pictures are automatically transferred to the other person’s smartphone. When security detains the photographer, he calmly gives her the flash card, because the pictures are already in another place.

Some cameras allow you to control them remotely via Wi-Fi. For example, to shoot a landscape on a cold night: you put the camera on a tripod, and you climb into a warm car and take a series of pictures in the warmth until the quality suits you.

Automatic matrix cleaning

One of the problems with any camera is dust getting inside the body. When dust settles on the matrix, it degrades image quality. Dust is usually removed by manual cleaning, often by blowing with a special syringe. But there are cameras with a special dust removal function. When this function is turned on, the matrix begins to shake, and as a result, the dust settled on it falls off - the matrix becomes clean without disassembling the camera.

Conclusion: useful feature. You can do without it, but having it won’t hurt.

Webcam mode

Indicates that there is an interface that allows you to use the camera as a webcam.
To put it simply, control the camera from a computer (using special programs), and maybe power the camera via a USB cable.

Most often, a webcam is used to display the view from a window via the Internet :-)
Whether this is necessary is up to you to decide.

Ease of use and management

You are buying a camera, first of all, for yourself. Therefore, check whether it is comfortable for you to hold it, press buttons, use the menu, and select modes.
Everyone's hands and fingers are different - so there is no universal design that will suit everyone.

If you are choosing a device for everyday use, think about whether it will be comfortable for you to wear. Hold the device in your hands. Large devices look “more solid”, but what’s the point of having a “big” device and leaving it at home because it is heavy and “doesn’t fit anywhere”. It's better to take one that can be with you all the time.

And most importantly, if the purpose of the device is to always be with you, make sure that it is comfortable to wear. Maybe you should give up on buying a large device and buy a small one, albeit of poorer quality? After all, from simple apparatus, which is always at hand, is more useful than a fancy one that “stayed at home.”

Access the features you need

It is also very important how convenient it is to access the functions that are important to you.

Look - are there special buttons for them on the device panel, or hidden in the menu?
For example, when shooting, the lighting often changes, and you need to adjust the white balance. How to do it? Do I need to go into the settings menu, or is there a special button on the case?
Or you like to take many pictures in a row, and then simply delete the unnecessary ones. How to delete a photo? Is there a special button on the case, or do you need to rummage through the settings?

It's like control panels. They all perform the same functions, but some are pleasant to hold and others are not; Some are easy to manage, while others have inconvenient access to the desired function...

Conclusion: to evaluate the usability of the interface, try to find functions that you will use often.

How to check a matrix - important note

The main defect of the matrix, which is not officially considered a defect, is the presence of “broken pixels”: these are points at which it is not what you are shooting that is reproduced, but a constant color (for example, in all pictures one point will be white or black). The Consumer Rights Protection Law allows for up to 3 similar points on the matrix. This means that if you find such a defect at home, you will not be able to exchange your camera. But if you discover this defect before the time of purchase, you have the right to ask for another camera.

How to check? To begin, “warm up the matrix” - take several pictures in a row, and then shoot an absolutely black background, or an absolutely white one (either with the lens closed or with the lens pointed open). white wall or leaf; some devices do not allow you to do this when the automatic configuration, if the device does not want to shoot, go to manual mode).

Then go to viewing mode, make the maximum zoom and, sequentially moving across the entire field of the image, check whether white dots are visible on the black background. Then check to see if there are any black dots visible on the white background. If there is such a point, ask for another camera, and do not give in to the seller’s persuasion that “all devices are like this”, that “this is allowed technical standards“, because that’s why you check the device before buying.

By the way, professional models have the ability to correct “dead pixels” using special computer programs. Simply put, they change the camera program, and instead of a “defective pixel” it records average data from neighboring pixels. When viewing photographs from such a device, “substitution” is not visible. But such adjustments can only be made by cameras where this capability is provided by the manufacturer.

The choice of camera depends on the tasks you set for it.

The main thing is that you feel comfortable working with it and carrying it with you.

I hope I have brought a little clarity to the questions that I am often asked: why devices with the same resolution, the same zoom characteristics, and almost identical functions can cost $200, or maybe $2000. And why does a device with fewer megapixels have better image quality? turns out higher than that of one with a higher resolution.

Finally, I’ll add: photographs are taken not by the camera, but by the photographer.

A camera is just a tool that will be completely useless in the wrong hands. Mastery comes from experience, so try, experiment, make mistakes and take risks.

I wish you success!

Article last updated - spring 2017.

The first thing you need to do before purchasing is to find information on the Internet about the model you have chosen: sometimes entire batches with the same defects end up on the market, and you need to know in advance about the likelihood of encountering something similar.

In the shop

Feel free to spend as much time as you need checking the camera. The seller’s task is to sell you a product, even if it’s defective, but your task is to buy a working model. Take the camera in your hands and carefully inspect the body: are there any scratches, are the screws intact? Check the buttons, covers, and whether the battery is secure.

Prepare in advance and bring a laptop with you installed program Exif-O-Matic. Take a test shot, open it in this program and look for the Exposure Sequence Number parameter: this is the number of frames captured. If their number is small, the camera may have been used in a store. But a high number most likely indicates that the camera was purchased, used, and then returned to the store. Ask for another copy.

Check for dead and hot pixels. Set the following values: shutter speed 1/60 sec, ISO 100. Take a picture of a white sheet of paper, examine it on your laptop: if black dots are visible, these are dead pixels. Then remove the lens, close the camera cap and take another photo: the white dots are still the same dead pixels. Hot pixels can be detected as follows: alternately set the shutter speed to 1/3 sec and 2 sec (if there is a noise reduction function, it must be turned on at this shutter speed) with ISO 100. Pictures to find damaged pixels should be viewed at 100% magnification. You can remove damaged pixels in warranty service, but if their number is large, you should immediately ask for another copy.

The last thing to pay attention to is how the focus works. As a rule, in stores you can find special tables for checking the focusing operation, but you can use a regular ruler and a match. The ruler is placed vertically on a white sheet of paper, the match is placed perpendicular to it, in the middle. Take a photo of the match and ruler at an angle of 45 degrees. Focusing on the near or far end of the ruler is a focusing error. If a match is in focus, as intended, pay attention to the depth of field: it should be approximately the same above and below the match.

Purchasing process

A camera is a complex and fragile piece of equipment, and the more reliable your seller is, the more likely it is to avoid a defective or used model, as well as to receive service on time and without difficulty. In specialized stores, the price of the product is often overpriced, while in electronics hypermarkets it is necessary to carefully check the camera for defects before purchasing. Be sure to check the documents and warranty card, appearance packaging.

Ordering from an online store will be a certain risk: if there is no alternative, do not spare money for the good name of the seller and good courier delivery.