How to insert interior doors with your own hands. Installation of interior doors, basic rules. Video - Simple DIY installation of interior doors

U installation interior doors in the apartment should be carried out according to certain rules that customers should know. After all, about mistakes in the repair and decoration of a room or apartment can seriously complicate installation and cost a pretty penny!

You will be able to reduce the cost of installation, avoid mistakes in choosing doors and fittings, and help the craftsmen do everything efficiently.

Door opening dimensions

• Opening width

The door leaf is usually 60/70/80/90 cm wide. The correct width of the opening is the width of the canvas +8 or +9 cm (if the thickness of the box in its narrowest part is from 1.5 cm to 2.5), or +10 cm (if the thickness of the box in its narrowest part is 2.5 cm and above ).

• Opening height

For all cases, the correct height of the opening is the height of the door leaf + 6 cm. from the finished floor., i.e. 206cm. Doors to the bathroom can be 190 cm high, so the correct opening height is 196 cm.

Here are some examples of correct openings:

• Canvas 80x200 (cm.) - opening 89x206 (cm.)
• 70x200 - opening 79x206
• 60x200 - opening 69x206
• 60x190 - opening 69x196

With dimensions doorways you need to decide in advance and it is very important to constantly monitor your team during the repair process.

Door widths for different rooms

If you have the opportunity to plan the width of doors and openings in advance and have questions about what door width to choose, then follow these recommendations:

• doors in rooms are usually made 80 cm wide so that furniture can be brought in/out. Width 90cm. This happens very rarely because such canvases are heavy and can sag on their hinges over time.
• bathroom doors are usually made 60-70cm so that the door can easily pass through washing machine 60cm thick. Keep in mind that 60cm. The door assembly has a clear opening of approximately 58 cm. due to the recesses in the door frame.
• door leaf for the kitchen they usually make 70-80cm. It is also necessary to take into account that handles on both sides may interfere with passage into the kitchen.
• V dressing room Usually they make the width 60-70cm.

When is it necessary to install extensions?

When installing interior doors, if the wall thickness is greater than door frame- it is recommended to purchase You can, of course, stick wallpaper on the ends of the walls, but it will look out of date, and there will be nothing to nail the trim on the other side of the wall.

If you install it, it will be good decision, which will beautifully decorate the slopes. The color of the additions can be selected, for example, to match the MDF panel:

Width standard extras according to the warehouse program, it is usually 10/12/15/20 cm. If your walls are very thick (more than 20 cm), then the extensions need to be joined in width or order non-standard extensions from production, which will cost much more.

Which side of the door should the extensions be installed on?

It depends entirely on how you planned the opening. Usually, if your door opens into a room, then the frame is placed flush with the room wall, and the extension will be in the corridor.

If you do the opposite, the door will not open completely (it will hit the door). Sometimes they put up with this so that the doors look the same - ALL extensions to the corridor or all extensions to the rooms. Therefore, this is already a matter of convenience and design, taking into account the future arrangement of furniture in the apartment.

Scheme for opening interior doors

Usually, if in one corridor some doors open into the corridor, and some open into rooms, closed doors will look different due to their features door frame. If the doors are next to each other, and at the same time one opens inward and the other outward, then the height of the upper trims will not match.

This is what it looks like from common corridor a door that opens into the corridor, that is, onto us:
This is what the door looks like that opens into the room, that is, inward:
It is necessary to ensure that the cloth does not cover the switch when torn off. It is very desirable that the doors do not intersect with their trajectories. In the bathroom, it is necessary to provide an opening of 180 degrees for quick ventilation after taking water procedures.

Make sure that a door opened 90 degrees does not block the opening of an adjacent door.

In order not to waste time coordinating the opening of doors with the craftsmen during installation, make a drawing diagram on a piece of paper in advance.

At what height from the floor should the door be?

The standard height is 1 cm from the finished floor. As for bathroom doors, it is not recommended to do less than 1 cm, so as not to disturb the air flow. If you have plastic windows don't forget to do supply valves for air from the street so as not to increase the air humidity in the apartment too much when the windows are closed.

Installation of interior doors during apartment renovation and the sequence of work stages.

In order to protect the wooden parts of the doors from warping due to high humidity during repairs, it is necessary to do installation after ALL finishing works, including in adjacent rooms.

Early installed doors may be accidentally damaged by tools during the repair process. Tile or wallpaper adhesive, especially plaster, dry quite quickly long time, releasing moisture into the room. Increasing the humidity above 70% for several days increases the risk that the doors will pick up moisture from the air, swell and stop closing properly.

However, if you like to bathe or shower frequently, humidity does not pose any threat, since the bathroom is quickly ventilated.

Installation of interior doors should be done if you already have a finished floor!

Without doors, it is much easier to lay floor coverings, and it is easier to install them later, with a clear connection of the platbands to the floor.

If you first install the box directly on the screed (main floor), then it is impossible to place the floor covering under the box, since it is already on the floor. In addition, it is difficult for the master to correctly calculate the lower gap of the door from the subfloor, taking into account the future covering, especially if the floor has not been leveled.

If you did everything correctly and did the installation after laying the finished floor, it will not be difficult to replace the floor in the future - you just need to pull out the laminate or parquet from under the door posts and slide in a new covering. In this case, the racks will not lower but will remain hanging.

What to do if the doorway is much higher (wider) than the frame?

A common mistake repair teams make is openings that are too high, because maximum height should not be higher than 208~209 cm, and better - 206 cm. from the floor covering.

Sometimes in new buildings standard opening can be 217-220cm high. This is explained by the fact that many customers make heated floors and the height after their installation becomes standard. If no one paid attention to this during the repair and a situation arose when the upper casing does not cover the opening.

Solution: if your opening is higher than necessary, but there is no way to reduce the opening, glue the wallpaper lower before installing the doors, or order high capitals instead of the upper casing, but usually they are installed on the side of the corridor. A more thorough way is to lower the height of the opening using drywall and wooden blocks and then glue the wallpaper.

Another option: if the platbands flat shape- saw off at the joints at 90 degrees, and the upper casing is cut from the extensions, which are wider. Some customers get out of the situation this way. The disadvantage is that sometimes the additional strips are thicker than the platband, and that if you do all the doors in the apartment this way, it will look a little wild)).

If the opening is wider than required by at least 2-3 cm on the sides, the foam seam will not have sufficient strength, and this is important, since the mounting foam helps maintain even gaps and ensures the overall resistance of the door to loads.

Solution: narrow the doorway with a wooden beam with a section of 3x5, 5x5 or at the repair stage using foam blocks and tile adhesive.

How to straighten a crooked doorway?

First, you need to check the walls to the right and left of the opening for humps/depressions by attaching a long rule, a plank or a flat board to the wall. Humps are especially common closer to the floor. Even one small hump will prevent the platband from fitting tightly to the wall.

To solve this problem there is only one option: to plaster and level the walls. If you don’t want or can’t level the walls in the entire apartment or wall, then do it only around the openings (about 50cm wide) and glue the wallpaper.

Then you need to check the verticality of the walls using a laser or bubble level. The ends of the openings must be parallel, the walls must be smooth and strictly vertical. If the opening is crooked, the walls are inclined, there are humps or depressions, act according to the circumstances.

If you understand that the opening is crooked and moves away from the vertical by more than 1 cm, you can level the walls with plaster according to the beacons, aligning them vertically and re-gluing the wallpaper. As you already understand, this is the best and most difficult solution!

How to install a door in a crooked opening?

But what if there is no way to level the wall? Let's say the wall in which the door is supposed to be installed is blocked from the vertical by more than 1 cm per two meters of the height of the opening. Then you have three options:

• Install the door frame along the plane of the wall, the trim will fit snugly against the wall, but the door will also be tilted and will probably close on its own, slam, etc.
• Install the box vertically in level, with the platbands adjacent in the upper part and moving away from the wall by the amount of deviation of the wall from the vertical in the lower part (or vice versa), worsening the aesthetics.
• Buy a door with telescopic platbands and install it straight, slightly deeper into the wall and, where necessary, pulling the platbands out of the grooves. This good decision problems, unless you need to open the door 180 degrees, since opening the door leaf more than 100 degrees will tear out the hinges.

The choice is yours, in all cases there are disadvantages and there are advantages, because it is a compromise.

What if the door is located close to the wall?

In such an opening, one wall is perpendicular to the other wall, and it is necessary to reduce the width of the platbands and attach them close to the wall on both sides. But by reducing the width of the platbands, we still spoil appearance doors, see photo: However, there are several other options to solve this problem:

1. If the renovation has already been done and wallpaper is glued to the walls, you can screw it to such a wall wooden beam cross-section 3x6, 3x4 or 4x4 (no more). It becomes possible to install an entire platband close to the wall.
2. Extend the doorway by at least 5 cm from the wall and cut the same distance from the opposite wall of the opening at the repair stage. The platband will be located at a short distance from the wall, which looks much more beautiful.
3. During the renovation stage, increase the doorway by 5 cm on both sides and order doors 10 cm wider, for example 70 cm. instead of 80cm..

Installing an interior threshold

The door leaf is located in the opening closer to the part of the wall where the door will open, so the threshold covering the joint of the floor when the door is closed should be located under the door leaf and then it will not be visible when the door is closed, see photo:

A common mistake made by repair crews is incorrect placement of the sills! To avoid such a mistake, draw a diagram in advance for opening all the doors and give it to the foreman before laying the finished floors.

Installation of interior doors in the bathroom

For living rooms and kitchens, it is recommended to order doors 2 meters high. For bathrooms in new houses, a 1m high sheet is often required. 90cm. due to the presence of waterproofing and special high thresholds. If you missed this point and did not order doors with a height of 190 cm, then you need to expand the opening in height or, as an option, you can shorten the door.

If you increase the height of the opening, then the top mark of the doors to the bathroom and interior doors will be at different levels. If the door is cut from the bottom, the panel pattern is lowered. Therefore, sometimes it is better to order smooth doors for bathrooms.

A common mistake is the threshold to the bathroom made from a wooden door frame, as aesthetics and ventilation are compromised wet room, and in the future, mold may appear.

Preparing interior door openings

Polyurethane foam will not be able to stick if there is a lot of dust at the ends of the doorway. It is necessary to remove dust or prime the ends of the opening walls if they are covered with gypsum putty or if the walls are made of gypsum/aerated concrete blocks.

If there are open round cavities and voids at the end of the opening, they can be sealed with plaster, leaving marks with a pencil so that the craftsman does not drive fasteners into them. Holes for fastening the door frame are drilled between these cavities into the lintels.

If the walls of the opening are made of plasterboard, then in the metal profile at the vertical ends of the opening Necessarily needs to be laid dry wooden block. It is needed for reliable fastening doors with self-tapping screws through the hinges and the counter part, and it also imparts rigidity to the walls in the area of ​​the opening. Doors installed in openings without reinforcement are doomed to short-term use and will quickly sag.

If inside metal profile the block is laid and the ends are not sewn up with anything, then this is not correct. Foam does not adhere well to galvanized metal. Peeling may occur over time. To avoid this, strips of gypsum board or gypsum board or plywood are screwed to the ends. Foam adhesion to these materials is excellent.

It is not allowed to leave voids between sheets of drywall in the upper part of the opening. The fact is that the top box is often very bent or bent when wedging, and to straighten it, for example with the help of foam, a filled end of the wall is required.

Preparing the opening for sliding doors

For those who want to install sliding doors opening height for standard door should be approximately 202 cm. and the width of the opening should be equal to the width of the door leaf or a couple of centimeters wider. In the process of finishing the opening with extensions and platbands for the portal, its dimensions should become smaller than the door leaf.

At a height of 207 cm. up to 212cm. there should be no voids from the floor in the opening, since a wooden beam with a section of 5x5 cm and a length of approximately 190 cm will be horizontally fixed here, to which an aluminum top rail with rollers will be attached.

Finishing a doorway (portal) in an apartment

If you don’t want to install an interior door, you can install a portal instead. This solution increases the space in small apartment, so this is a win-win option for visually combining adjacent rooms: hall and living room, corridor and dining room, living room and small kitchen. Doorway without the usual door, it surprisingly transforms the room:

Preparing the flooring before installing doors

A common mistake made by repair teams when laying floor coverings is when the gap between floor covering and the wall in the area of ​​the platbands exceeds the thickness of the platband. And you just need to remember to make it no more than 3 mm. in the area of ​​platbands.

A recess (groove) can be made in the wall near the floor to compensate for possible expansion of the floor covering.

Storing doors after purchase

To avoid deformation under the influence of gravity, the canvas, box beams and platbands must be stored on flat surface lying down. Doors can be placed on their side against the wall.

Doors, trims and frames can change their sizes after changes in humidity. Due to the build-up of humidity after cold weather, it is necessary to store the door and molding indoors for several days before installation. Do not remove the packaging from the doors in advance until the temperatures have completely equalized.

Which loops to choose?

• If the canvas weighs up to 20 kg, then it is optimal to buy 2 loops 10 cm high
• If the canvas weighs from 20 to 30 kg, then you need to buy 2 loops of 12-12.5 cm. height
• If the canvas weighs more than 30 kg, then you need to buy 3 loops of 10 cm each. height

The hinges are hung at a distance of 20 cm from the top and bottom of the door leaf. The thickness of the metal and the absence of play are very important. If the metal thickness of the loop is 3 mm, then this good hinges, a thickness of 2-2.5 mm is much more common. It is very good if the hinges are made of brass or steel. Most common door hinges There are several types:

• universal hinges - these are traditional mortise hinges familiar to all of us. If the choice of hinges is not a fundamental issue, buy universal hinges. They can open both to the right and to the left. In addition, universal hinges have a longer service life.

• - not mortise, overhead hinges. Easy and simple to install. They got their name for their special unusual design– both of its elements, when open, resemble butterfly wings. In the process of closing door leaf one part of the loop easily fits into the other, forming a single whole. Typically, such hinges are installed on lightweight doors.

• — time-tested mortise hinges; a door with such hinges is simply removed if it opens 180 degrees. There are right and left depending on the door opening

How to choose locks and latches?

Locks and latches are best selected based on the most quiet operation mechanisms for opening and closing and their reliability. Magnetic locks are quiet, but not all, they need to be bought more expensive and preferably Italian, there are very quality options. Don't skimp on them so as not to suffer later.

Cheap latches with plastic tabs are not always of high quality, so you should first ask knowledgeable people(not sellers), and do not buy too suspicious options. It will work quietly for six months, and then suddenly it will start making noise. Sometimes such cheap magnetic locks and latches do not work immediately after installation. Door installers know these models well.

You can buy classic latches/locks. It would be best to choose them with plastic tongues, as they are the quietest in operation and do not clank like metal ones.

Sometimes it happens that the new latch is difficult to operate. In this case, place a couple of drops of silicone grease on the lock tongue.

Door handle height from floor

For Europe - 95 cm. Nowadays many symmetrical doors are produced, in which the handle, according to the design of the door, should be located strictly in the middle of the leaf. Therefore, the standard handle height for Russia is 1 meter.

Almost all models door handles The kit includes self-tapping screws that are too long, which, when screwed into the door, can jam the lock or lead to its unstable operation. Door installers almost always screw handles with their own self-tapping screws.

How to choose the right specialist to install an interior door and check the quality of his work?

How to do right choice so as not to be left with hopelessly damaged doors? Will the work be done efficiently if the door installer has doubts? Let's first find out how best to check the work of the wizard and analyze everything point by point.

How to check the work of a door installation technician?

1. Look at the quality of the insertion of locks, the joints of the frame and platbands, and the insertion of hinges. There should be no gaps
2. The lock tongue should fit into the strike plate without play.
3. The canvas should fit evenly along the entire length to the vestibule or rubber seal. When closing the door, the elastic should not be jammed by the canvas.
4. The gaps between the door and the frame must be even along the entire length.
5. The box is fixed in the opening not only by construction foam, but also with the help of fasteners
6. The canvas should not close or open on its own.
7. The fittings must rotate freely
8. The price may rise only due to the increased volume of work that cannot be foreseen in advance.

How to choose a door installation specialist? Basic methods.

1. The master must highly specialize in installing doors! It is necessary to watch or see the work live (at a friend’s apartment). The master or team must have at least 1 year of experience and provide professional equipment: a miter saw, a sawing table or a manual one. Circular Saw, milling cutters, screwdriver, drill, hammer drill, hairpin gun with compressor, templates for fittings, etc. Read

Installing a door is quite a difficult job. The point is not in the design of the leaf itself and the door frame, but in the fact that both of these elements must be very precisely aligned vertically and horizontally. Otherwise the door will not open.

Equally important are preliminary work. When measuring or floor level, mistakes are often made, which entails a lot additional work. Therefore, before you begin, read about and for interior doors.

Accordingly, the home craftsman more often encounters a box made of wood or MDF.

In practice, the difference in installation is not due to the material of the product, but to the level of its readiness. You can make the door frame yourself - from a wooden beam, or you can get it from the store ready box, which only needs to be secured in the opening.

A number of conditions must be met regardless of what type of door is installed:

It’s also worth looking at what types there are and how to install them correctly.

The work of installing a door frame requires care. Constant checking with a building level for verticality and horizontality is mandatory.

1. All structural elements are placed on the floor on cardboard.
2. Measure the width and height of the opening to make sure that there is a gap of 3–5 cm between the structure and the slopes. Wooden wedges will be inserted into the gap to secure the frame. The thickness of the wedge should be 0.5 cm greater than the gap.
3. Workpieces are processed from the ends circular saw or a hacksaw for wood. It's best to use a saw, as a hacksaw can damage veneer or other finishes.
4. A block for the upper part of the frame is applied to the top of the sash so that there is 2-3 mm between them. Mark the width of the sash with a pencil and cut off the excess.
5. The places where the hinges are attached are marked on the door leaf - usually at a distance of 20 cm from the edge. Place the side part of the frame next to the canvas - with a gap of 3 mm, and mark on the fragment the place where the hinges are attached. It is taken into account that there should be a gap of 10 mm between the door leaf and the floor, so that the side of the frame should be longer than the sash.
6. Boards or bars are cut at the marked places. The ends are filed at 45 degrees.
7. Apply door hinges to the marked places, trace the outline, and then hand cutter or use a chisel to select material to make a socket for the loop. The technology depends on the choice of fittings.
8. For self-tapping screws, holes are drilled for hinges with a diameter smaller than the diameter of the screw: this way, possible cracking of the material is avoided. Fasten the fittings.
9. Drill holes for fasteners at the ends of the elements. Drill exactly at an angle of 90 degrees to the trimmed surface.
10. The bars are tightened with self-tapping screws. The finished frame is temporarily installed in the opening, secured with pieces of foam to ensure that the product fits the opening.

But what kind of non-standard entrance doors there are, and what sizes of such doors exist, is indicated

Video on how to install a door frame:

The box is secured in several ways. If the installation is carried out on a light partition, hangers are used for fastening metal strips with a length equal to the width of the wall and with tendrils extending 5–7 cm onto the outer and inner sides. The frame is secured to brick or concrete with anchor bolts, for which holes are drilled in the wall.

1. In the first case, the planks are fixed on the frame elements: 2 on the horizontal part, 3 on the vertical parts. Holes must be drilled for anchors.
2. The frame is aligned vertically and horizontally, and then secured with wooden wedges. Their number may vary, but be sure to place wedges under the hinges, in the corners and in places where they are fixed with anchors. The wedges should be driven so that they remain invisible and do not protrude beyond the plane of the frame or wall. The structure is checked again for verticality and horizontality.
3. The box is secured: either the antennae are bent and fixed to the wall with self-tapping screws, or anchors are hammered through the boards. First, fix the hinge part of the box and attach the fittings to it. The fake one is only foamed in two places.
4. The door leaf is hung and the door part is adjusted, correlating its position with the help of wedges.
5. Check the entire structure for verticality and horizontality. The sash should move freely. Only after this the front part of the box is secured and the gaps are foamed. polyurethane foam.

It may also be useful for you to learn about how this happens and how to do it correctly.

On video step-by-step instruction DIY installation of interior doors:

How to install an MDF door

The above diagram shows that the most important thing when installing a single-leaf or double-leaf door is the correct installation of the frame. However, fixing the door leaf can also cause difficulties.

In principle, installing an MDF door leaf is no different from installing a wooden door leaf. However, in the first case there are advantages: in a factory product, as a rule, many of the marks are already present.

The installation consists of several stages.

1. While the frame is being assembled, the door leaf serves as a template for exact dimensions timber, as well as to check the correct installation.
2. Door hinges are first installed on the door leaf. Installation depends on the nature of the fittings: as a rule, they deal with a “butterfly” or other overhead or mortise hinge. At a distance of 20–25 cm from the edge to the end of the canvas, apply half a loop and trace along the contour with a pencil.
3. The groove for the loop is cut out with a chisel or manual router. The fittings are secured with self-tapping screws. It is advisable to drill holes for them.
4. The gap between the canvas and the frame slope is determined by the nature of the fittings. In any case, the gap should be large enough to accommodate the pivoting axis of the hinges.
5. After installing the door frame, the leaf is hung on the hinges to check the correct installation. installed last.
6. To do this, remove the sash, use a milling cutter or drill to select the material for the lock, and cut out holes for the handles. On MDF doors As a rule, the places where the locks are attached are marked with stickers, and the locks and handles themselves are included in the kit.
7. The technology for installing a lock and latch depends on their type. In any case, the counter part of the lock is installed after the lock is mounted in the MDF sash.

It is also worth learning more about how slopes are installed front door, and for this it is worth looking at this

On video how to install an MDF door:

MDF door leaf is not uniform. It is advisable to use the areas indicated on the product for fastening, and drill holes for fastening. Pressed wood is not as strong as wood and requires care. Even if you made a slight mistake with the dimensions, the defects will be completely hidden.

Sliding doors

Numerous advantages sliding system are also complemented by the possibility self-installation. In fact, it is easier to install sliding doors than swing doors, since they only require one thing - movement along the floor. And the sashes are fixed not into the opening, but onto it, which makes installation much easier.

However, this simplicity requires the ideal condition of the floor and walls. By uneven floor and along uneven wall the sash will not be able to move. Preparatory work Maximum attention is paid here.

Before installation, the walls along which the sash will move are carefully leveled. The floor level in the corridor and room should no longer change.

1. The canvas is applied to the opening and the upper boundary is marked on the wall, they move upward from it another 70 mm, draw a second line and attach a mortgage along it - a wooden beam of the appropriate thickness and length.
2. The beam should be placed above the opening - closed door, and on the wall where the open sash will go. The timber is secured with anchors or self-tapping screws, depending on the wall material.
3. Holes for fasteners are drilled in the upper guide in increments of 15–20 cm and the guide is fixed with self-tapping screws on the underside of the block. The guide is attached as close to the outer edge as possible, and not to the wall, so that the canvas moves freely.
4. The rollers from the kit are inserted into the guide, and the ends of the profile are closed with plugs.
5. If the sash is held only on the top guide, this installation work and are completed. If the canvas moves along the lower guide, then the latter is mounted in the floor. In this case, the canvas is temporarily inserted into the upper guide, aligned vertically, and then the attachment point is marked on the floor. The sash is removed again and the lower guide is attached along the marks.
6. In most cases, the door leaf is supplied already assembled. If not, then the planks are fixed independently - with self-tapping screws, and then the roller mechanisms are screwed on. Fasteners are always included in the package.
7. The canvas is inserted into the guide. Typically, the sash is inserted into the upper track first, and then the lower wheels are inserted into the lower one. The canvas must be placed strictly vertically.

On whole video Folding door installation process:

Assembly technology may change. It depends on the design, the weight of the material used and the size of the opening. The manufacturer's recommendations should be followed.

Assembly and installation of interior doors different types– the work is complex, requiring both skills and attention. For a beginner home handyman It’s worth starting with something simpler, since the functionality and appearance of the interior door is important for the interior. After the installation of the doors is completed, it begins.

Simply installing a door to make the opening look presentable is not enough. In order for a door - be it an entrance door or an interior door - to look good, you need to decorate it with the help of platbands and.

Installing interior doors is not as difficult as it might seem at first glance. If the master has at least a little experience working with doors, then this is a big plus. The only thing that is better to entrust to a specialist is the insertion of fittings. Incorrectly installed fittings can ruin the entire result of the work.

Stages

Installation of interior doors occurs in several stages:

1. Box installation.
2. Installation of canvas.
3. Installation of additional elements.

Preliminary stage

The technology for installing interior doors is quite simple. However, before starting work, there is one important step that cannot be skipped. This is the door selection stage.

The final result largely depends on how responsibly you approach your choice.

1. The first thing to do is go around the shops. You shouldn't take the first option you come across. If we're talking about about online stores, then you need to carefully check the characteristics of the designs.
2. The door leaf should fit the frame perfectly in size. All characteristics of the door must be known in advance. You can't do this without measurements.
3. Sometimes very cheap options appear in stores. After purchase, the owner may discover that the box or accessories are not included. You have to spend time and select the remaining parts. It's not always possible to do it right. So don't look at the ones that are too cheap door designs. As a last resort, you must first clarify the presence of certain parts in the kit.

Materials and tools

Materials and tools for installation must be prepared in advance. Tools you will need:

• wood hacksaw;
• screwdriver;
• level.

Materials you need to purchase:

• polyurethane foam (cylinder);
• self-tapping screws;
• wedges

Assembly and installation of the box

Once the door has been purchased, you can get to work. At the first stage, the box is assembled.

Assembling the box is a simple process. The only thing you need to remember is that it is necessary to trim off the frame frames in order to establish a gap between the door leaf and the floor. For ordinary apartments, the gap is set to about 10 mm.

After the gap is established, the racks are connected using self-tapping screws. After assembly, the stage of installing the box into the opening begins.

It is advisable that the opening be pre-treated. To do this, check the verticality of the walls, as well as the height and width of the opening.

The box is installed using a level and wedges. The level checks the position of the structure in the opening. The procedure is as follows:

1. The box is fixed in the opening with wedges at the top and bottom.
2. First, the door must be fixed with wedges from below, before checking the position of the structure in two dimensions with a level.
3. The average gap between the frame and the opening on all sides should be about 10 mm.

The door leaf is hung on hinges. At this time, the box is secured only with spacers and wedges.

You should not foam the door frame before hanging the door leaf. The point is that you still need to make sure that the door in this position will not open on its own.

After the canvas is hung, you can foam the gap between the box and the opening.

It is necessary to ensure that the foam does not get on the surface of the door. The composition of the polyurethane foam can easily damage the surface, so you should work carefully.

Now you need to install the additional element.

1. The additional strip is measured to fit the distance from the edge of the box to the edge of the wall.
2. Using a hacksaw, it is cut along the edge.
3. The additional element is mounted in the groove and foamed. Foaming is done at several points.

Platbands

After the additional element is installed, you need to wait for the foam to dry. When working with polyurethane foam, you must remember about its expansion properties. The substance should always be applied in measured doses.

The next stage after installing the additional strip is the platbands.

1. To install platbands, you need to determine their size.
2. After this, the platbands are sawed off using a hacksaw.
3. Holes for nails are drilled.
4. The casing is fixed.

If the platband has a “beak”, then it is attached to liquid nails. There is no need to file it down.

Types of interior doors

Today in stores you can find doors from natural wood, glass, plastic, metal and composites. Mixed designs are also found.

Usually the choice is made taking into account the design of the room and this the right approach. However, it is necessary to consider all the main varieties of these designs in order to know their advantages and weak spots, as well as the subtleties of care.

1. Paneled from hard wood. Such designs are very durable and prestigious. Moreover, they are very expensive. The most common paneled doors are made of oak and walnut. Designs are made either using glue or without it. The last type is the most durable. Caring for such a door is necessary, as with any natural surfaces. The door must be protected from moisture and high temperatures. It is recommended to wipe them with a napkin. The use of abrasives is prohibited.
2. Paneled from soft wood. Ideal for country houses and cottages. IN ordinary apartments These doors don't look very appropriate. They are more suitable for country style. Caring for such structures is the same as for hardwood doors.
3. Paneled combined doors. These structures are made of veneer. Valuable breeds they contain little wood. Therefore, such doors are quite inexpensive. Their service life, however, is shorter than that of solid wood structures. However, they can last about 50 years, which is also very good. No special care is required for veneer doors; this is their advantage.
4. Panel structures. The advantage of panel doors is that they are inexpensive, do not require special care, are easily replaceable, and have a presentable appearance. In addition, they are well decorated and fit into any interior. About 85–90% of all doors are panel doors. This design can be glazed, decorated with natural veneer or artificial materials. Panel doors - best option for most apartments and offices.

Video: instructions for installing interior doors

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Scheme

Today, do-it-yourself installation of interior doors is done in most cases. Manufacturers strive to simplify the installation of their products as much as possible, so almost anyone can handle this. Next, we will consider this procedure in detail.

Before you install the interior door yourself, you will need to choose suitable model. According to the opening method, they are divided into the following categories:

• Foldable. Such models consist of several doors at once that move along a guide. They are divided into two subgroups: books (consist of 2 sections and are durable) and accordions (an alternative to screens).
• Coupe (sliding). Have greatest number modifications: 1 and 2 doors, opening inward or along the wall, left- and right-handed, etc. The main advantage of such structures is space saving. At correct installation they also provide high level soundproofing.
• Swing. The last variety is the most popular. Installing doors of this type is much simpler, and can be done by people without carpentry skills (which cannot be said about other categories). In addition, their cost is much lower. Main disadvantage such structures - they take up a lot of usable space.

Installation of the first two varieties is carried out according to various techniques, which have significant differences. In this case, the master will need the skills of a carpenter, otherwise it will be impossible to achieve a positive result. Therefore, our step-by-step instructions will cover the installation of swing doors.

A few words about choosing a canvas and calculations

Technical characteristics must be selected based on room conditions. First, we decide on the dimensions of the canvas, so we measure the opening. Don't forget about the need to leave a gap. Between the racks and the original surface 10-12 mm, between the canvas and the timber 3-5 mm. This is necessary to avoid the door jamming. It may appear due to swelling of the canvas (from temperature fluctuations and high humidity). Standard width varies between 60-100 cm, height 180-220 cm.

Remember: the finished canvas cannot be adjusted, and expanding (narrowing) the opening is a labor-intensive task. Therefore, select the dimensions as accurately as possible - the complexity of installation will depend on this.

The technical clearances (12-15mm) and the width of the box are subtracted from the size of the opening and multiplied by 2. The resulting number is subtracted from the width of the opening. Calculation example:

1. We have an opening 78.5 cm wide.
2. 78,5 - (1,2 + 2,5 + 0,3) *2 = 70,5.
3. This means that a model with a width of 70 cm suits us.

The standard door length is 200 cm, so you will have to adjust the opening to fit it. To calculate the required height, to two meters (or another figure if we are dealing with a non-standard model) we add the thickness of the box, the size of the technical gap and 1 cm (the distance between the canvas and the floor). If you plan to install a threshold, then add its thickness.

In addition to the dimensions, it is necessary to take into account the characteristics of the material from which the canvas is made. This is not so important, but you should not ignore this aspect. Remember a few simple tips:

• In rooms with high humidity It is not recommended to use models made from materials that are not resistant to moisture (chipboard, pressed sawdust, etc.). In a few years they will swell and lose their original appearance. In such cases, it is recommended to install laminated doors.

Advice: if there is a need to install this type, leave a technological gap 2 times larger, because such a canvas will swell much faster and more strongly.

• If there are small children or large animals in the house, it is better to avoid models with glass inserts.

Another important point- for newly built wooden houses When installing the box, it is recommended not to screw in the screws completely. This will allow her to easily survive shrinkage.

Where to start - preparatory manipulations

First, you will need to perform several labor-intensive and important operations.

What we need - study the tools

Tools for installing interior doors are not expensive or complicated. To complete all the manipulations you will need the following:

• A hacksaw with a miter box (it must be of a suitable size so that the box fits completely into its grooves, otherwise it will be very inconvenient to saw). You can use a circular saw.
• Building level. Ideally, laser - it gives maximum accuracy. However, there is no point in purchasing it for a one-time job - it is quite expensive.
• Drill with cutter.
• Pencil (or marker), tape measure.
• Hammer.
• Screwdriver or furniture screwdriver.
• Polyurethane foam with a gun.
• Fastening materials: finishing nails (usually included in the kit), self-tapping screws, dowels, screws (80×5), wedges.
• Two spirit levels (180 and 50 cm).

The first procedure is dismantling

This is the most difficult, and most importantly, the dirtiest stage of work. Self-installation interior doors begins with dismantling the old ones. Let's look at everything step by step:

• During operations, an incredible amount of dirt and dust will appear. Therefore, immediately remove all furniture, carpets and other items from the room. We cover anything that cannot be moved with something. Don't forget about PPE (goggles, gloves, respirator).
• Filming old door from hinges. To do this, unscrew the screws that hold them. If the hinges are of the “male-male” type (that is, when one part is inserted into the other), then simply open the door and pull it up at a right angle. If the hinges are not lubricated, you will have to put in a lot of effort, so we do the work with a partner.

Tip: if you no longer plan to use the old canvas, you can simply tear it off if you have sufficient force. This is the most radical and fastest way.

• Next you need to dismantle the box. First of all, remove the mortar that holds the frame.
• Then cuts are made in the upper parts of both posts. This will make the extraction process easier: insert a pry bar into the holes made and just pull it hard. different sides.
• As a result, they will become loose and can be easily removed from the opening.

Preparing the original surface

The next step is to bring the opening into proper shape. The work is performed in the following sequence:

• We dismantle the insulation (if any). We do this with gloves, because this group of materials irritates the skin.
• We remove construction waste and then carry out a thorough inspection.
• If there are materials that peel off easily, remove them. We also remove all fasteners (hinges, nails, etc.).
• As a result, we should get bare concrete (brick, timber - depending on what the walls are made of).

After such procedures, the evenness and integrity of the surface will most likely be compromised. Therefore, it will need to be leveled. There are several methods, but the simplest is plastering.

If, after cleaning manipulations, the width of the opening has increased (for example, surface layer opal plaster), then installing additional additions will help. These are wooden (in most cases) planks 6-30 mm wide. They are installed when it is necessary to “increase” the size of the opening. More durable option- cement mortar.

Main scope of work

The order of installation of interior doors must be strictly observed, so all further manipulations are presented in the correct sequence.

Assembling the box correctly

Once again, making sure that the original surface is even, we begin assembling the box. It is sold in the form of bars of various lengths. It is necessary to make a U-shaped structure from them (if a threshold is to be installed, then rectangular). The second option is used mainly for toilets and bathrooms.

If you ordered the frame along with the door, then most likely it will be ready - you just need to assemble it (using long screws or nails). If purchased separately, it will have to be adjusted to size. This is the most complex process that will require maximum precision, because in case of the slightest inaccuracies, the door will receive a slope, which will affect its performance characteristics.

Consider the assembly of a U-shaped structure:

• We lay two vertical racks on the floor, it is necessary that it be perfectly level.
• We mark on them the height of the opening from the inside.
• From these points downwards we make a cut at an angle of 45 degrees, a miter box will help you with this.
• On the third rack (horizontal) we mark the width of the opening at inside. From these points we make a cut at 45 degrees in different directions. Do not confuse the direction, these three elements must be assembled into a single structure, so make a fitting with each new cut.
• Then we mark the places for the hinges and the lock. This can be done later.
• We assemble the resulting structure and connect it with large self-tapping screws. For each joint we use at least 3 fasteners.

Attention! Follow vertical arrangement the self-tapping screw while tightening, because at the slightest deviation it will pierce the stand.

For rectangular design the assembly will be identical, only with the addition of a second horizontal post.

How to set the loops correctly

The awnings will determine how comfortable closing and opening will be, so perfect precision is required. Most people believe that two loops are enough for normal operation. We recommend using three (one placed exactly in the middle). In this case, even during long-term use, you will avoid distortions. So, you need to do the following:

• We apply loops to the applied markings and trace them with a pencil (marker).
• Along the drawn lines we make two grooves (on the door and the canopy) - to the depth of the canopy. A chisel will help us with this. The loop should be flush with the main surface.
• Having made the adjustment, we screw the awnings onto self-tapping screws of medium length (at least 3.5 cm) first to the canvas, and then to the racks.
• If necessary, we make adjustments: we place the structure on the floor and begin to open (close) - if the movement is not smooth, tighten the screws.

Insert the box into the opening

The next stage is installing the door frame. We do everything in this sequence:

• If the hinges are of the male-female type, then take out the door - this will make the work easier. Otherwise we leave it as is.
• Level all three posts. Achieving perfect verticality!
• We split the top crossbar with wooden wedges.
• We level it again and, if necessary, use linings.
• We drill through the side posts with a drill.
• Insert dowels into the resulting holes in the wall.
• Using long self-tapping screws, we secure the box.
• We carry out final revision and alignment.

Final chords - handles, trims

Having made sure of perfect evenness, we perform the final manipulations. First, the handle is installed on the door. To do this, a through hole of the appropriate diameter is drilled in the canvas (If you purchased full set, then you won’t have to do this). Then the two parts of the handle are connected. In most cases this is not difficult.

At the end the platbands are displayed - decorative elements, hiding all irregularities and forming the integrity of the structure. They are glued around the entire perimeter using special liquid nails. The joints are also formed using a miter box.

• Installation of interior doors - 1653 specialists per site
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• Installation of interior doors in Moscow from 2000 rubles/piece.

The most convenient way to order the installation of interior doors in Moscow is on the website. Presented to users professional craftsmen who carry out installation, dismantling and repair of sliding, metal, and any other structures. The qualifications of specialists are confirmed by documents and certificates, which are verified without fail. You can form an opinion about the quality based on reviews from other clients using the service.
Installing interior doors is a complex undertaking. You can install the structure yourself, but if you lack the necessary skills, it is better to turn to professionals. They will perform the work efficiently and in the most short term. It is mandatory that an agreement is concluded between the customer and the contractor, which specifies the conditions, guarantees, terms and costs.
Price - from 2,000 rubles per piece. On this moment there are 1632 proposals from individuals and companies that perform such types of work. A master will first visit the site to assess the complexity and conclude a contract. The assigned tasks are completed quickly and in compliance with all building codes and requirements, which guarantees long-term operation without loss of functionality.